Pat, At full throttle, and a clean bottom, I motor at 8.1 knots at 3100 RPM. My normal "around the harbor" cruising speed is 6 knots at 2000-2100 RPM Once you go away from a fixed prop, it is my

With an eye towards the South Pacific and beyond in 2019, we are reviewing our ground tackle inventory. Presently we carry the original (to SM 380) stainless Wasi Bugel anchor on 100m of 10mm

I purchase mine from Amel. http://www.nikimat.com/spare_parts_windlass_lofran_tigre.html I am sure you have seen the whole illustration of the

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners group. File : /Bow Thruster maintenance A54/_Bowthruster

Bill, I was going to buy a Autoprop from Alexandre , when Olivier informed me that the boats were modified to fit the Autoprop. I would be interested in the performance , eg. cruising speed /rpm ,max

Bill, When the packing is initially installed, I drive it down with a piece of PVC pipe and a small sledge hammer. It is in very tight. As it swells with water it does leak and needs tightening.

Pat, I'll have to look deeper for the size, I know it is written down on the boat SOMEWHERE! I do know the pitch setting is 20 degrees, left rotating. My understanding is all of the early production

Eric, If it needs to be THAT tight, it really needs repacking. Going on tightening it really tight risks scoring the shaft, or breaking the plastic gland nut. (I assume your gland nut is nylon,

We have a santorin 1993...hull 86

yes sorry...should have been more clear...the ones mounted on the windless motor housing.

Eric, I am not sure which switches you are talking about... Are these the ones mounted on the motor hoursing of the windlass? It helps if you post the model and hull number of your boat so we know

Bill, I have found that the plumbers wrench slips when a lot of force is needed to tighten the nut. When the packing is new it is a no brainer, but when the packing gets compressed, it slips. Fair

You can buy one from Amel and that will work. You can have one custom made, and that will work. Or you can buy what, in the USA, is called a "plumber's slip wrench"... and that will work just as

I know that has been talked about before and i read the threads... but...has anyone found a source here in the status for these...i know the vetus ones from jamestown would work but they are pretty

I still have my old AutoProp if anyone wants to buy it. It’s just taking up space now, so you can have it for a good price. I think a good prop shop can modify it to fit your shaft. Kent

I didn’t notice a significant difference between fuel consumption between the AutoProp and MaxProp. Kent Robertson S/V Kristy SM243

Jose, I would have already bought an Autoprop and almost did, until I was informed that the shaft housing had not been modified as on later models to accept the Autoprop. Thanks, Pat SM#123

Thomas, I would suggest you but the nut wrench from Amel, or have one made out of ¼ inch aluminum. There is a photo of mine in the photo section. This will allow you to tighten the nut while at

Jose, I completely agree with the engineering theory of your analysis. Where we might differ is I simply do not believe that a on a boat like an SM the drag difference between an Autoprop(worst) and

Kent, Didn't know you had bought the Max prop , glad you are happy with it, I think I am going with it. I may give you a call. Thanks, Pat