Hi Bill, Thanks for the info. I really don't want to try to slack all my rigging and start from scratch. I'm not sure I'm strong enough to get it back tight again, and I also don't trust that the

Before I gybe I crank in the main close to center line then during the gybe the main and boom has little distance to travel or build momentum . I then immediately ease the mainsheet for the new tack.

Paul, Like many things, it is a long story. I will try to accurately tell you the story that someone at Amel told me. The original SM design was was standard with three Thrane & Thrane 24 to 12VDC

Hello , on BELAVITA nº 238 , we’ve 3 sailors regulators which provide 24v and 12 v , to cut both 24 & 12 , two circuit break et in the locker

Hi. I would not choose to lift that button before a gybe as the car sliding across to a sudden crash stop increases the impact on all involved items including mainsheet boom attachment. I always gybe

Thanks. I forgot to mention that. It could easily be a broken bone the speed the winch handle would go! Ian

Thanks Joel, that explains it. I will ask Amel.SAV. All the similar ones on-line appear to be 12 Volt, but I think for the Amel 24 volt system I just need to change the bulb to an appropriate 24 Volt

Hi Paul, On Kristy, there are five 24-12v converters. One of the green Sailors is marked Permanent. It is always connected directly to the battery bank and allows your AM/FM radio to hold it’s

Hi Derick. When your SM53 #400 was built for me originally, I ordered optional lights for both the cockpit port side locker and the stern locker. Amel had a fairly extensive list of options that we

That sounds like a good idea. One build on that recco however, you either want to have removed the winch handle or make sure the area is well clear, as the winch will spin very fast as the traveller

Hi Derick. When your SM53 #400 was built for me originally, I ordered optional lights for both the cockpit port side locker and the stern locker. Amel had a fairly extensive list of options that we

One minor point if you haven’t come across it. If your main sheet traveller is across when running (I assume we all do that) - if you know you are about to crash gybe, just lift the button on the

Hello! We have three 24 volt converters under the navigation table, market blu, Inmarsat and instrument. The strange thing is if I close the circlet breaker for each of them, I still have 12 volt on

Hi Bill, I agree the motor is probably fine, as it can run in one direction. I can hear the big Albright double-solenoid motor-reversing contactor click for both starboard and port operation. So

Thomas, It could be the large high amperage electro magnetic switch on the motor...sorry I left that out by mistake Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School

Thomas, It is probably not the motor and is either the joystick or one of the 4 relays. Eliminate the joystick first. It is unlikely that your relays are numbered because out of about 10 54s, I have

Ryan, Some thoughts. I have never been able to tune a rig accurately “by ear”. I always use a loos tension gauge, or the stretch method with the meter stick. But... that only gets you so far.

Here I am again, still trying to get the wood trim around the portlights off. I was able to remove the ones in the VeeBerth using a putty knife, hammer, screw drivers, filet knife, and flat pry bar.

Robin, Another source of air leak is the seachest screwed cover. It may be mis-threaded, and the engine sucks air in. The seachest does not leak out sea water because the fridge circulation pump is

Derick, You need to ask the person who installed it after your boat was made.😀 Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie