Date   

Re: Lifting the dodger on a Sharki

Gerhard Mueller
 

@Aras Grinius
Can you please send again your file Guillatine Rebuild.zip ?
It does not open here.

--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Port-Saint-Louis, France


Re: Running larger battery charger cables

Jason Rutledge
 

Take pictures when you do it!
--
Jason Rutledge
SV Liahona
SM 335


Re: Running larger battery charger cables

Alan Leslie
 

As long as you drill through vertically above the existing cables in the cable way, you will miss the fuel tank.
I know, I've done it.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: AC not cooling

 

I believe that is a Deaerator. I have not seen this on other 55s. I probably missed it.

Thanks,

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jun 12, 2021 at 3:43 PM Joerg Esdorn via groups.io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Another try on the photo.  ´


Re: AC not cooling

Joerg Esdorn
 

Another try on the photo.  ´


Re: Lewmar ST 40 winches on an SM

Arno Luijten
 

Hi,

Yes the central spindle does pull out from the top. It can be stubborn at times but it should come out once you have removed the two or three inserts that sit at the top of the tower where the spindle sinks into.
You may need to use some penetrating oil to free them up a bit more.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: AC not cooling

 

Joerg,

Photo of Deaerator? I think you forgot and please tell me where it is located.

And one thing a lot of people forget is that slower saltwater flow means lower heat exchange efficiency.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jun 12, 2021 at 2:06 PM Joerg Esdorn via groups.io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks very much, Bill.  I‘ve pretty much followed the instructions regarding bleeding air from the manual but only one of my three chiller units has a valve to bleed air.   I’ve bled air from both the salt water pump and the circulation pump.  However, I believe I have a dearator- see pic.  Taking off the cap doesn’t do anything but if I stick a screwdriver into the top, turbulent water/air comes out.  


It seems to me that if the salt water circuit is working (it is - water is coming out normally), the compressor should be getting the temp lower than 28C.  So I think it‘s likely a low coolant situation.  The yard tried the system 3 months ago and it was working but not cooling much.  Again, this seems to point to low coolant.  

Again, many thanks for your thoughts!  Cheers Joerg


Re: AC not cooling

Joerg Esdorn
 

Thanks very much, Bill.  I‘ve pretty much followed the instructions regarding bleeding air from the manual but only one of my three chiller units has a valve to bleed air.   I’ve bled air from both the salt water pump and the circulation pump.  However, I believe I have a dearator- see pic.  Taking off the cap doesn’t do anything but if I stick a screwdriver into the top, turbulent water/air comes out.  


It seems to me that if the salt water circuit is working (it is - water is coming out normally), the compressor should be getting the temp lower than 28C.  So I think it‘s likely a low coolant situation.  The yard tried the system 3 months ago and it was working but not cooling much.  Again, this seems to point to low coolant.  

Again, many thanks for your thoughts!  Cheers Joerg


Re: Lifting the dodger on a Sharki

Gregory Shea
 

 Areas,
I elected to lift the dodger since I was not confident in my ability to do a good woodworking job in Greece. My other two choices were to cut the hatch in half or cut the trim and rebuild it.
The front of the dodger refused to cooperate. It is somehow locked in place. I wonder if someone put an extra screw up into it and then covered it with the headlining. Graham Johnston’s on Zephyr has lifted his twice, with no problem. Not me.
Bill Rouse posted the photo of how a prior owner of Gerhard Mueller’s Sharki had cut the trim. Gerhard shared that with me when he got to his boat in May. 
I could not see a way to cut and veneer the hatch without the wiper causing problems with the veneer.
Bill pushed me over the edge by suggesting the Gerhard solution. I had found some teak molding from a prior boat on board that would work, look OK and cover up my butchery with an oscillating saw.
The hatch is out and ready for veneering tomorrow.
I wanted to recount my experience to illustrate the multi faceted support of the forum. My solution was an amalgamation of several prior experiences by forum members, modified by my situation. I’m really looking forward to not having an eyesore masquerading as a hatch.
Thanks to everyone.

Greg Shea
Cap des Iles
Sharki 133
Preveza


On Jun 12, 2021, at 1:55 PM, Aras Grinius <aras.grinius@...> wrote:

Greg,
I had to re-make mine. Rather than take off Hard Dodger we cut ours so that it would slide out.  We used wood bungs to join them back togetherwith new wood of course.

Aras
Sharki #163

On Fri, Jun 11, 2021 at 3:22 PM Gregory Shea <gmshea@...> wrote:
Hey all,
I need to resurface my hatch but, as we all know, that requires lifting the dodger.
I have taken out all the obvious bolts and the dodger is releasing except that it seems anchored firmly at the pointy end of the pare brise.
There is a ferrule (guiding the traveler adjustment) at the “pointy end” with two screws. They are out. No evidence of fasteners under the headlining at the “pointy end.”
Seems to me you should be able to take out the bolts and it should lift off, but it isn’t. It is rock solid at the front end. I must be missing something. Henri magic?
 Has anyone else experienced this problem with a Sharki dodger, or am I the first?

Greg Shea
Cap des Iles
Sharki 133
Preveza







--
Aras Grinius


Re: AC not cooling

 

Joerg,

You just brought up one of the continuing issues with some 55 owners. I have tried to learn as much as I can about the Climma Chiller System and maybe I can offer a few things that you have not considered. Please let me know because I am still learning.

The Climma Chiller system on most A55s is both efficient and complicated. Finding a qualified and experienced technician for the Climma Chiller system will be a challenge. I believe that the most common issues in order of probability are:
  1. The freshwater circuit pressure is not between 1.5 and 2.0 BAR
  2. There is air in the freshwater circuit.
  3. The liquid inside the freshwater circuit is not the correct mixture of 80% water and 20% antifreeze (Coolant) (Glicole) (Glycol)
  4. The heat exchange is not working efficiently because of poor saltwater flow caused by restrictions in that circuit.
  5. The sealed system & compressor are not working properly because of low refrigerant. This is the least probable cause, but regrettably, the first thing many technicians do is add refrigerant!
When adding to the freshwater circuit and increasing the pressure to 1.5 BAR it is VERY important to bleed all air. Climma states that "each single “top” point in the circuit has to have an air outlet valve. Avoid siphons and avoid slopes in the freshwater circuit and each fan coil must have an air outlet valve."  These are used to bleed air.

Climma's instructions on removing are:
"The air must be completely removed from all the access points of the circuit (collectors, fan coils, and all the other system components) starting from the lowest point and maintaining the pressure at 1,5 Bar. This must be done without [running] the pump. Continue to remove air from each single access point of the freshwater circuit until no air exits anymore, always maintaining the pressure at 1,5 Bar."  Comment: I believe that when removing air, if the pressure drops, you will have to stop the bleed process, turn on the pump and potentially add more fluid until the pressure again increases to 1.5 BAR, then start the bleeding process over again at the lowest point.

Climma's instructions continue: "Start the system (compressor) in COOL mode. Both the pumps (sea and freshwater Leave the freshwater pump working for 30 seconds, then shut down the system completely again and start with the previous procedure to remove air from each access point to the fresh water
at 1,5 Bar. Air removal is complete when no more air exits from the access points and the freshwater pump works with no problem and with no noise." 
Comment: I take this to mean that the process of removing all air will take at least 2 attempts.

Climma also states, "We strongly advise installing in the freshwater circuit a Deaerator, right after the pump water exit. The Deaerator will reduce almost to zero the need of removing air from the circuit. Deaerators are available in different sizes depending on the size of the freshwater circuit."

I am not absolutely positive of this, but I believe that Amel did not install a Deaerator. I have not seen one on an Amel with a Climma Chiller System, and incidentally, there are none offered by Veco on their website. Most of the 55 owners I know have an issue with low levels in the freshwater system and I believe have further complications with air and the insufficient process of bleeding air. 

It seems to me that this suggested Deaerator should be investigated further.

Here are some examples of a DEARATOR:
image.png
image.png


Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jun 12, 2021 at 8:00 AM Joerg Esdorn via groups.io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
After 2 years, I am trying to get the Climma working again.  Both the saltwater and the circulation pump started up fine but I needed to fill up the circulation cycle a little bit to get to the required 1.5 bar.  The compressor starts up fine as well.  But while the temperature of the coolant decreases initially by a few degrees, it then stalls and increases again.  I suspect I have a coolant leak but I wonder whether there are alternatives to calling the service man to fill it up.  Any ideas?

Many thanks! 

Joerg Esdorn
A55 #53 Kincsem
In very hot Vigo, Spain


Re: Running larger battery charger cables

Chris Doucette
 

You can drill new holes above them through the bulkhead there’s an area in front of the tank that small just above where the cables penetrate right Within the foot step.  
Make sure you know we are drilling as not to drill into the fuel tank.


On Jun 12, 2021, at 11:52 AM, william reynolds <sail23692@...> wrote:

I'm replacing my 50 amp Dolphin charger with a 100 amp Dolphin charger. The larger charger requires larger cables. Past posts have addressed the issue and no one 
has come up with a suggestion on running new cables through the present cable duct which is filled with some very hard material. I would like to hear form anyone who has   attempted  rerunning cables through the existing ducting.
 Bill Reynolds
Cloudstreet 


Running larger battery charger cables

william reynolds
 

I'm replacing my 50 amp Dolphin charger with a 100 amp Dolphin charger. The larger charger requires larger cables. Past posts have addressed the issue and no one 
has come up with a suggestion on running new cables through the present cable duct which is filled with some very hard material. I would like to hear form anyone who has   attempted  rerunning cables through the existing ducting.
 Bill Reynolds
Cloudstreet 


AC not cooling

Joerg Esdorn
 

After 2 years, I am trying to get the Climma working again.  Both the saltwater and the circulation pump started up fine but I needed to fill up the circulation cycle a little bit to get to the required 1.5 bar.  The compressor starts up fine as well.  But while the temperature of the coolant decreases initially by a few degrees, it then stalls and increases again.  I suspect I have a coolant leak but I wonder whether there are alternatives to calling the service man to fill it up.  Any ideas?

Many thanks! 

Joerg Esdorn
A55 #53 Kincsem
In very hot Vigo, Spain


Re: Lifting the dodger on a Sharki

Aras Grinius
 

Here are my pics for the re-build.

Aras
Sharki #163

On Sat, Jun 12, 2021 at 6:55 AM Aras Grinius via groups.io <aras.grinius=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Greg,
I had to re-make mine. Rather than take off Hard Dodger we cut ours so that it would slide out.  We used wood bungs to join them back togetherwith new wood of course.

Aras
Sharki #163

On Fri, Jun 11, 2021 at 3:22 PM Gregory Shea <gmshea@...> wrote:
Hey all,
I need to resurface my hatch but, as we all know, that requires lifting the dodger.
I have taken out all the obvious bolts and the dodger is releasing except that it seems anchored firmly at the pointy end of the pare brise.
There is a ferrule (guiding the traveler adjustment) at the “pointy end” with two screws. They are out. No evidence of fasteners under the headlining at the “pointy end.”
Seems to me you should be able to take out the bolts and it should lift off, but it isn’t. It is rock solid at the front end. I must be missing something. Henri magic?
 Has anyone else experienced this problem with a Sharki dodger, or am I the first?

Greg Shea
Cap des Iles
Sharki 133
Preveza







--
Aras Grinius



--
Aras Grinius


Re: Storage Hatch gaskets

Mark McGovern
 

Pat,

A few people on this forum have reported having good results using the following product:

Clean Seal, Inc.
Part #: 342HATS-100; D-section 342 with Adhesive, 100 feet
Price:  $2.092/foot 

The company is located in the USA.  Contact information:
(800) 366-3682
www.cleanseal.com   
cleanseal@...

I purchased 100 feet in order to redo all of the hatch seals but I have not yet used it so I cannot vouch for it's effectiveness.  The company was very easy to deal with and even sent me free samples to check it out before buying.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Lifting the dodger on a Sharki

Aras Grinius
 

Greg,
I had to re-make mine. Rather than take off Hard Dodger we cut ours so that it would slide out.  We used wood bungs to join them back togetherwith new wood of course.

Aras
Sharki #163

On Fri, Jun 11, 2021 at 3:22 PM Gregory Shea <gmshea@...> wrote:
Hey all,
I need to resurface my hatch but, as we all know, that requires lifting the dodger.
I have taken out all the obvious bolts and the dodger is releasing except that it seems anchored firmly at the pointy end of the pare brise.
There is a ferrule (guiding the traveler adjustment) at the “pointy end” with two screws. They are out. No evidence of fasteners under the headlining at the “pointy end.”
Seems to me you should be able to take out the bolts and it should lift off, but it isn’t. It is rock solid at the front end. I must be missing something. Henri magic?
 Has anyone else experienced this problem with a Sharki dodger, or am I the first?

Greg Shea
Cap des Iles
Sharki 133
Preveza







--
Aras Grinius


Re: Storage Hatch gaskets

Aras Grinius
 

McMaster Carr also sells gasket material.  3M sells adhesive. You can get that from amazon.  
Aras 
Sharki #163

On Fri, Jun 11, 2021 at 3:37 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I would like to replace the gaskets on all the storage hatches ,they are compressed and leaking somewhat. Does anyone know the dimensions and a source in the US. to buy them. I wonder if they have an adhesive backing or applied with contact cement, a backing would be less messy and easier.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans



--
Aras Grinius


Lewmar ST 40 winches on an SM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hello all,

Our under-used  ST40 winches ( the smaller ones in the cockpit ) have sprung an unhappy surprise ( I blame Covid, not the careful skipper who keeps them well greased and covered with little hats when ashore ).

The central spindles on both have seized. Even when stripped down and the cogs removed the spindles only eventually rotated after a bit of brute force with a large winch handle.

My question:  How do I lubricate the central spindle ?      I had hoped that it would pull out vertically, but it refuses. 

Anyone had a similar problem ?      Does a well behaved spindle lift out, even with the cog attached to its foot ?

I will email Lewmar, but this forum usually has quicker and better solutions than most manufacturers.

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Serifos, Greece


Re: Seasickness cures and medication

arthur saftlas
 

Seasickness is often caused by fear. We were sailing offshore in nasty weather when one of us 3, started yawning abd feeling sick. The other 2 of us knew the signs and we told him he cannot go below. We had to almost beat him up tp get him rea;ize he was afraid. He finally listened to us and went up to the shroulds and did the deep kneebends with deep breaths we advised. It wasn’t too long when he was back to being helpful.


Re: Storage Hatch gaskets

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, That is great ,I will order that very soon ,hope you and Judy are well. You get up this way ,we have a berth for ya.
Thanks, 
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Jun 11, 2021 4:57 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Storage Hatch gaskets

Pat,

They are "D Profile: and 25mm, or 1" I think the following will work for you:

image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jun 11, 2021 at 2:37 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I would like to replace the gaskets on all the storage hatches ,they are compressed and leaking somewhat. Does anyone know the dimensions and a source in the US. to buy them. I wonder if they have an adhesive backing or applied with contact cement, a backing would be less messy and easier.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

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