Date   

Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

 

Chris,

You originally said, "pumping seemed normal. A few days later I noticed the pump was running for a very long time. After activation from the float switch, it began to pump, however, once the water in the sump began to decrease, so did its pumping ability, so much so that it was unable to pump out the last bit of water to turn the switch off."

I addressed non-mechanical issues because I believed that you were clearly stating that your pump was working mechanically. Apparently, you have a combination of mechanical issues. The mechanical parts, such as the nylon gear, are available from TF Marine (info@...). I believe 100% of the parts used in previous versions of this pump made by A.M.F.A. and others as the model number "Marina ZZ" are directly replaceable by parts from TF Marine.

Mohammad is correct about the one-way valve in the foot of the pick-up. With it working correctly, the pump primes itself quicker, but if the pump is working correctly this one-way valve is not critical to the pump being able to lift water from the sump.

SAV @ Amel.fr has had the nylon gear in stock from time-to-time.

Here is a drawing, but unfortunately, it does not show the Delrin (looks like nylon) gear as a separate part:
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Dec 5, 2020 at 2:14 AM Chris Likins <likinsca@...> wrote:

Thomas,

I managed to get the whole clutch taken out finally. You can see the gap in the nylon gear. I do have an entire spare pump (although the motor shaft is snapped in half) so I am hoping to salvage the clutch off of that pump if it is still in good condition. The spare pump is currently in the shop and its a holiday weekend here in Thailand so I have to wait until Tuesday to find out... 

 

In the old thread you posted, you mentioned you epoxied the old nylon gear to repair it. Can you give a little bit more detail of exactly how you did that?

 

Thank you!

 


Re: 3 topics Smart Regulator Hydronic diesel heater

Courtney Gorman
 

Hi Jeff I would love to see your bladder setup.  Cheers 🍻 
Courtney 
Trippin
54#101
Brunswick 


On Dec 5, 2020, at 7:35 AM, JEFFREY KRAUS <jmkraus@...> wrote:

Good Morning Amelians,
I hope this message finds everyone well and happy throughout the globe.
I'm looking to install a smart external regulator. 
I'm looking into 2 currently.
a. wakespeed 500   Another Amel owner has installed this unit with good results, and I'm awaiting more information on it and it's installation.
b. ZM5  I recently got a return email from the company (located in New Zealand). Information pending.
Has anyone had any experience with the ZM?

I'm looking to install a diesel heater aboard.
I'm giving serious consideration to a hydronic system. One aspect of a hydronic system is that it can heat the boat without the heater operating while the engine is running, with the engine coolant circulating and providing the heat to the fan units, If anyone has used a bus heater, that's how it works. Without the engine on, the diesel heater warms the coolant in the lines. The engine, heater, AND the hot water system are in series, so one has the luxury of heating your hot water while the diesel heater is running also.
The particular system I'm focusing on is a Webasto 2010s.
It can have up to 4 fan/zones. I would install 1 in the main cabin, 1 in forward cabin, 1 in masters cabin, and 1 at the helm. The luxury of a heated helm  (within the enclosure ) would be nice. These bus heaters produce heat at a very high rate.
Has anyone had any experience with this, or for that matter any hydronic system aboard their vessel?

I recently ran Spirit back from Puerto Rico to NY on a solo run of what turned out to be 1600nm.
Before leaving, I strapped a fuel bladder (50gal) on top of the stern cabin. I bought 2 pipes each with a shut off valve. 1 a fill (larger to accommodate the fuel nozzle), 1 an outflow with a fitting to attach a hose to run into the fuel tank. I used a clear hose so I could see the fuel flowing. Once I knew I had used up more than 50 gal of fuel, I ran the hose into the tank, and while applying pressure to the bladder with my knee, opened the outflow valve, and the fuel siphoned into the tank, sucking all the fuel out of the bladder. It worked like a charm. I took off the pipes, and replaced the bladder caps, rolled the bladder up. and that was that. If anyone is interested in the bladder hookup and type, let me know.

Thanks in advance for any feedback on the 2 other issues.
Jeff Spirit Amel 54 #14
back in Shinnecock NY


3 topics Smart Regulator Hydronic diesel heater

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Good Morning Amelians,
I hope this message finds everyone well and happy throughout the globe.
I'm looking to install a smart external regulator. 
I'm looking into 2 currently.
a. wakespeed 500   Another Amel owner has installed this unit with good results, and I'm awaiting more information on it and it's installation.
b. ZM5  I recently got a return email from the company (located in New Zealand). Information pending.
Has anyone had any experience with the ZM?

I'm looking to install a diesel heater aboard.
I'm giving serious consideration to a hydronic system. One aspect of a hydronic system is that it can heat the boat without the heater operating while the engine is running, with the engine coolant circulating and providing the heat to the fan units, If anyone has used a bus heater, that's how it works. Without the engine on, the diesel heater warms the coolant in the lines. The engine, heater, AND the hot water system are in series, so one has the luxury of heating your hot water while the diesel heater is running also.
The particular system I'm focusing on is a Webasto 2010s.
It can have up to 4 fan/zones. I would install 1 in the main cabin, 1 in forward cabin, 1 in masters cabin, and 1 at the helm. The luxury of a heated helm  (within the enclosure ) would be nice. These bus heaters produce heat at a very high rate.
Has anyone had any experience with this, or for that matter any hydronic system aboard their vessel?

I recently ran Spirit back from Puerto Rico to NY on a solo run of what turned out to be 1600nm.
Before leaving, I strapped a fuel bladder (50gal) on top of the stern cabin. I bought 2 pipes each with a shut off valve. 1 a fill (larger to accommodate the fuel nozzle), 1 an outflow with a fitting to attach a hose to run into the fuel tank. I used a clear hose so I could see the fuel flowing. Once I knew I had used up more than 50 gal of fuel, I ran the hose into the tank, and while applying pressure to the bladder with my knee, opened the outflow valve, and the fuel siphoned into the tank, sucking all the fuel out of the bladder. It worked like a charm. I took off the pipes, and replaced the bladder caps, rolled the bladder up. and that was that. If anyone is interested in the bladder hookup and type, let me know.

Thanks in advance for any feedback on the 2 other issues.
Jeff Spirit Amel 54 #14
back in Shinnecock NY


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Chris Likins
 

Thomas,

I managed to get the whole clutch taken out finally. You can see the gap in the nylon gear. I do have an entire spare pump (although the motor shaft is snapped in half) so I am hoping to salvage the clutch off of that pump if it is still in good condition. The spare pump is currently in the shop and its a holiday weekend here in Thailand so I have to wait until Tuesday to find out... 

 

In the old thread you posted, you mentioned you epoxied the old nylon gear to repair it. Can you give a little bit more detail of exactly how you did that?

 

Thank you!

 


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Alan "Woody" Wood
 

We had a few problems with our Henderson Mk 5 bulge pump recently and the trouble shooting brought up the usual suspects like torn diaphragm and leaky valves but also leaky screw holes and a dislodged strumbox grill that allowed a twig and cable tie to enter the joker valve at the bottom of the bilge and hold it ‘open’. This video might help to pinpoint potential issues to investigate.
Bilge Pump Problems! Fixing our Whale / Henderson Mk5 Pump with Spares from the Service Kit.
https://youtu.be/Tbpj26sNX1A


Mizzen mast drawing

Alan Leslie
 

Hello fellow Amelians,

Does anyone have a dimensioned drawing of the cross section of the SM mizzen mast ?
I want to 3D print some spacers in order to mount a small box with an air horn and compressor on the mizzen mast under the radar scanner.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Sv Garulfo
 


I guess you have a spare for the whole clutch (meaning the aluminum wheel and plastic gear ring). This assembly is held in the gearbox housing by a cir-clips. See picture attached.



Hope it helps

Thomas


On Fri, 4 Dec 2020 at 18:16, Chris Likins <likinsca@...> wrote:

After a little more research on this forum it appears the break in the nylon gear is not supposed to be there and probably causing slippage. 

 

Does anyone know the easiest way to remove the white nylon gear? I actually have a spare...


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Chris Likins
 

After a little more research on this forum it appears the break in the nylon gear is not supposed to be there and probably causing slippage. 

 

Does anyone know the easiest way to remove the white nylon gear? I actually have a spare...


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Chris Likins
 

Thomas,

 

I just took off the face of the gearbox to have a look at the clutch. It appears that there is one "break" in the white plastic gear. I noticed that you had two breaks in yours. Did you epoxy both or just one of them? I cant tell if the single break is meant to be there or not. 

 

Thanks!


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Chris Likins
 
Edited

Hi everyone, thank you for the information. 

 

I have sealed and coated everything (two halves, main cover, flapper valves, inlet and outlet hoses) with a generous amount silicone grease, the suction hose is brand new, two hose clamps are in place and yet I am still having the same problem. I took the lower hose off the boat and filled it with water. A small trickle of water was coming out of the joker valve at the bottom. Should this be happening?  

 

I have zero trouble priming the pump while covering the outlet on top of the pump with my hand. It seems to pump OK when the motor is cold, as it warms up it gets slower and slower until it is hardly able to pump out any water at all. The motor sounds like its gets weaker and weaker the longer it runs. Any clues what this might point to inside the motor? 

 

As always, thanks for the help!


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi;

 

Another issue may be the backflow preventer valve at the intake part of the hose. These have rubber flaps in them that dry our over time. As they get worse, more and more water drains back into the bilge, in between the suction phases of the pump. Air can also be introduced in to the system. We had similar issues a few years ago. After service and using grease and double clamps at all hose connections, the pump has been working flawlessly. You can get replacement backflow preventers to replace the existing.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Sv Garulfo via groups.io
Sent: Friday, December 4, 2020 5:24 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 bilge pump problems...

 

Chris,

 

It’s unlikely to be the problem (otherwise your professionals would have found it), but if you find that the motor/gearbox emits a click noise on every turn and diaphragm action looks jerky, you may have a case of a broken clutch:

Best,

 

Thomas

GARULFO

A54-122

Moorea

 

 

On Fri, 4 Dec 2020 at 04:54, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Chris,

 

The most common issue with this pump is a vacuum side leak. I am sure this is what you have. Usually, no leaking water is visible with a vacuum leak large enough to stop the pump from functioning. A vacuum side leak can happen:

  1. If the seal between the hose and hose barb on the suction side (bottom) is not perfectly sealed because a little air leaking into the pump will cause it to not pump water. Check this closely. I believe that when Amel installed this hose and others, they used some sort of sealant between the hose and the connectors. You should use 2 hose clamps and some sort of flexible sealant. Also, when this hose gets old, it becomes hard and loses its flexibility, causing a vacuum leak because the hose clamps cannot squeeze the hose tight enough. 
  2. The joint between the two halves should be sealed using high-quality silicone grease. The Dow Corning 111 Molykote Silicone Lubricant is the best product for this.
  3. The flapper valves should also be coated with the same silicone grease as above.

The TF pump you have is a good pump and should last a long time using TF rebuild kits. That said, there were some rebuild kits made in China that were a problem. I think these kits found their way to Amel and other distributors.

 

Bill

 

 

On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 7:57 AM Chris Likins <likinsca@...> wrote:

Hello,

 

I recently have been having issues with my "bilge" pump on my Amel 54. The pump is the original from TF Marine. I first noticed a problem that the motor sounded different, hard to describe exactly but I have tested it enough to know that the motor didn't sound the same, however pumping seemed normal. A few days later I noticed the pump was running for a very long time. After activation from the float switch, it began to pump, however once the water in the sump began to decrease, so did its pumping ability, so much so that it was unable to pump out the last bit of water to turn the switch off. 

 

I rebuilt the pump with rebuild kit but had no luck so I gave it to the professionals for a rebuild. A few days later I am told they have the pump working and even send me a video (of the pump laying down on the ground, not upright) pumping plenty of water. Flapper valves, diaphragm, o-ring have all been replaced. Inside of the motor cleaned up. I also changed the suction hose that goes into the sump as it was getting old. There are two hose clamps on the suction side of the pump.

 

All this and still the same problem! The pump will prime just fine (hand over the outlet until the pump is full), then it will pump some of the water out of the bilge for a few seconds but then slow down to a crawl.

 

Is there some other source of a suction leak I may have missed? Is there anything else I could be missing?! Help!!

 

Thanks! 


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Sv Garulfo
 

Chris,

It’s unlikely to be the problem (otherwise your professionals would have found it), but if you find that the motor/gearbox emits a click noise on every turn and diaphragm action looks jerky, you may have a case of a broken clutch:
Best,

Thomas
GARULFO
A54-122
Moorea


On Fri, 4 Dec 2020 at 04:54, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Chris,

The most common issue with this pump is a vacuum side leak. I am sure this is what you have. Usually, no leaking water is visible with a vacuum leak large enough to stop the pump from functioning. A vacuum side leak can happen:
  1. If the seal between the hose and hose barb on the suction side (bottom) is not perfectly sealed because a little air leaking into the pump will cause it to not pump water. Check this closely. I believe that when Amel installed this hose and others, they used some sort of sealant between the hose and the connectors. You should use 2 hose clamps and some sort of flexible sealant. Also, when this hose gets old, it becomes hard and loses its flexibility, causing a vacuum leak because the hose clamps cannot squeeze the hose tight enough. 
  2. The joint between the two halves should be sealed using high-quality silicone grease. The Dow Corning 111 Molykote Silicone Lubricant is the best product for this.
  3. The flapper valves should also be coated with the same silicone grease as above.
The TF pump you have is a good pump and should last a long time using TF rebuild kits. That said, there were some rebuild kits made in China that were a problem. I think these kits found their way to Amel and other distributors.

Bill


On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 7:57 AM Chris Likins <likinsca@...> wrote:

Hello,

 

I recently have been having issues with my "bilge" pump on my Amel 54. The pump is the original from TF Marine. I first noticed a problem that the motor sounded different, hard to describe exactly but I have tested it enough to know that the motor didn't sound the same, however pumping seemed normal. A few days later I noticed the pump was running for a very long time. After activation from the float switch, it began to pump, however once the water in the sump began to decrease, so did its pumping ability, so much so that it was unable to pump out the last bit of water to turn the switch off. 

 

I rebuilt the pump with rebuild kit but had no luck so I gave it to the professionals for a rebuild. A few days later I am told they have the pump working and even send me a video (of the pump laying down on the ground, not upright) pumping plenty of water. Flapper valves, diaphragm, o-ring have all been replaced. Inside of the motor cleaned up. I also changed the suction hose that goes into the sump as it was getting old. There are two hose clamps on the suction side of the pump.

 

All this and still the same problem! The pump will prime just fine (hand over the outlet until the pump is full), then it will pump some of the water out of the bilge for a few seconds but then slow down to a crawl.

 

Is there some other source of a suction leak I may have missed? Is there anything else I could be missing?! Help!!

 

Thanks! 


Re: Any SM owners use a Beta engine??

amelforme
 

The fuel filters are mounted in a position that is a little uncomfortable to access for a good reason. When positioned as God and Henri Amel wished, the filters will almost always be below the fuel level in the tank with any reasonable amount of fuel being contained. This makes it very easy to purge/bleed the fuel feed line and the fuel filter containments and filters with just the head pressure from the fuel tank.

 

If you position them higher, you run the risk of not having a positive pressure of fuel to the fuel feed line and filters unless the fuel tank is very full. In such a case you would need to source fuel from a portable tank and pour it into the open filter tops and perhaps get a bubble/embolism in the fuel feed line which would make purging/bleeding the system more difficult. The other solution would be to mount an electric fuel pump to occasionally use to supply pressurized fuel. The life span on such an electrical pump which is seldom used would not be long. If it failed at the moment you really need to purge/prime the fuel system, that could be way more inconvenient than having to contort yourself to service them in the original position.

 

I too questioned the logic of this the first time I saw the set-up at the shipyard in La Rochelle. I questioned Jacques Carteau, the fellow who designed this system, why he had done so. He gave me a withering look and mutter something under his breath as only the French can do, then he patiently gave me the explanation I have just shared with you.  

 

Yes, I am an unabashed enthusiast for everything Amel and I have made a good living selling Amel boats for 40 years. But this enthusiasm is deserved. When something seems odd or contrary on an Amel, there is almost always a very good reason for the peculiar aspect of the component.

Consider the entire situation before you change anything from the provided configuration.

 

Have fun with your Amel!

 

All the best,

Joel

 

           JOEL F. POTTER ~ CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST, L.L.C.

                                         The Experienced AMEL Guy

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                  Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dan Wilcox via groups.io
Sent: Friday, December 4, 2020 12:38 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Any SM owners use a Beta engine??

 

Happy to hear that the pictures helped.  Don't hesitate if you need any specific additional ones.  

 

I located the fuel filters on the back wall.  I wanted easy access to it, and it's mid-point between engine and generator.

 

Good luck with the install. I know you will enjoy the new engine.

 

Thanks, Dan 

Feierabend SM#86

 

On Thursday, December 3, 2020, 11:32:04 PM PST, Mark Barter <markbarter100@...> wrote:

 

 

Thanks Dan, I have sent those photographs to the fitter. He really seems now to have got on top of this job so I am more confident  that it will go well.

I can see that you have moved the fuel filter but I can't see where you have put it. 

I was thinking of putting the dual filters that I have bought a bit higher and the other side of the valve shut off extension.  
--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


Re: Any SM owners use a Beta engine??

Dan Wilcox
 

Happy to hear that the pictures helped.  Don't hesitate if you need any specific additional ones.  

I located the fuel filters on the back wall.  I wanted easy access to it, and it's mid-point between engine and generator.

Good luck with the install. I know you will enjoy the new engine.

Thanks, Dan 
Feierabend SM#86

On Thursday, December 3, 2020, 11:32:04 PM PST, Mark Barter <markbarter100@...> wrote:


Thanks Dan, I have sent those photographs to the fitter. He really seems now to have got on top of this job so I am more confident  that it will go well.

I can see that you have moved the fuel filter but I can't see where you have put it. 

I was thinking of putting the dual filters that I have bought a bit higher and the other side of the valve shut off extension.  
--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


Re: Water ingress close to the rudder tube

Martin Birkhoff
 

Meanwhile I got an answer from Olivier Beaute. 
It might be of interest for you. Below Oliviers email.

Martin
SV Mago del Sur - 54#40

Hello Martin,

 

I've seen this case twice on an AMEL 54. In both cases, the vessel suffered a serious grounding and was at first poorly repaired.

 

I don't believe the water is coming from the rudder shaft tube glassing. This tube is made of thick and plain GRP, glassed to the hull and threaded inside in order the nylon nut (stuffing box) can be tightened.

There are several possibilities for the water to get into the skeg and make its way to the bottom of the rudder shaft tube.

The main ones and easiest to repair are the bolts for the pintle bearing, intermediate bearing of the rudder, and the SSB ground plate bolts. If these bolts are not caulked correctly, some water can make its way around them and migrate to the top of the skeg. This water may also follow the copper strap for the ground plate or the copper strap for the rudder stainless steel supports (that you see on the rudder shaft tube).

 

If there are other cracks in the skeg, the water may penetrate and go into the foam that is inside the top part of the skeg, and then through the GRP covering the top of the skeg.

The skeg is originally part of the hull. Once it is built, it is filled up with polyurethane foam and the top is glassed (with woven cloth) to the hull.

The worst you may need to do is open the skeg from the side, remove the foam, glass all its inside edges with new glass cloth and epoxy, and put new foam and close the skeg.

 

Good luck.

 


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

 

Chris,

The most common issue with this pump is a vacuum side leak. I am sure this is what you have. Usually, no leaking water is visible with a vacuum leak large enough to stop the pump from functioning. A vacuum side leak can happen:
  1. If the seal between the hose and hose barb on the suction side (bottom) is not perfectly sealed because a little air leaking into the pump will cause it to not pump water. Check this closely. I believe that when Amel installed this hose and others, they used some sort of sealant between the hose and the connectors. You should use 2 hose clamps and some sort of flexible sealant. Also, when this hose gets old, it becomes hard and loses its flexibility, causing a vacuum leak because the hose clamps cannot squeeze the hose tight enough. 
  2. The joint between the two halves should be sealed using high-quality silicone grease. The Dow Corning 111 Molykote Silicone Lubricant is the best product for this.
  3. The flapper valves should also be coated with the same silicone grease as above.
The TF pump you have is a good pump and should last a long time using TF rebuild kits. That said, there were some rebuild kits made in China that were a problem. I think these kits found their way to Amel and other distributors.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 7:57 AM Chris Likins <likinsca@...> wrote:

Hello,

 

I recently have been having issues with my "bilge" pump on my Amel 54. The pump is the original from TF Marine. I first noticed a problem that the motor sounded different, hard to describe exactly but I have tested it enough to know that the motor didn't sound the same, however pumping seemed normal. A few days later I noticed the pump was running for a very long time. After activation from the float switch, it began to pump, however once the water in the sump began to decrease, so did its pumping ability, so much so that it was unable to pump out the last bit of water to turn the switch off. 

 

I rebuilt the pump with rebuild kit but had no luck so I gave it to the professionals for a rebuild. A few days later I am told they have the pump working and even send me a video (of the pump laying down on the ground, not upright) pumping plenty of water. Flapper valves, diaphragm, o-ring have all been replaced. Inside of the motor cleaned up. I also changed the suction hose that goes into the sump as it was getting old. There are two hose clamps on the suction side of the pump.

 

All this and still the same problem! The pump will prime just fine (hand over the outlet until the pump is full), then it will pump some of the water out of the bilge for a few seconds but then slow down to a crawl.

 

Is there some other source of a suction leak I may have missed? Is there anything else I could be missing?! Help!!

 

Thanks! 


A54 bilge pump problems...

Chris Likins
 

Hello,

 

I recently have been having issues with my "bilge" pump on my Amel 54. The pump is the original from TF Marine. I first noticed a problem that the motor sounded different, hard to describe exactly but I have tested it enough to know that the motor didn't sound the same, however pumping seemed normal. A few days later I noticed the pump was running for a very long time. After activation from the float switch, it began to pump, however once the water in the sump began to decrease, so did its pumping ability, so much so that it was unable to pump out the last bit of water to turn the switch off. 

 

I rebuilt the pump with rebuild kit but had no luck so I gave it to the professionals for a rebuild. A few days later I am told they have the pump working and even send me a video (of the pump laying down on the ground, not upright) pumping plenty of water. Flapper valves, diaphragm, o-ring have all been replaced. Inside of the motor cleaned up. I also changed the suction hose that goes into the sump as it was getting old. There are two hose clamps on the suction side of the pump.

 

All this and still the same problem! The pump will prime just fine (hand over the outlet until the pump is full), then it will pump some of the water out of the bilge for a few seconds but then slow down to a crawl.

 

Is there some other source of a suction leak I may have missed? Is there anything else I could be missing?! Help!!

 

Thanks! 


Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Hi Eric,

Sorry for the late reply. Your email got lost in the shuffle.
I hope it is not too late yet.
I will send you a check tomorrow. If it is too late just destroy my check.

Vladimir Sonsev
202 258 1916


On Thu, Oct 1, 2020, 5:46 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Vladimir,

Please send me a check for $34.00 for 1 switch.

The switches are on the way to me and I will send 1 to you

as soon as they arrive.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

Eric Freedman

345 New York Ave

Huntington, NY 11743

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of VLADIMIR SONSEV
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 9:11 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

 

Hi Eric,

 

I want to buy one. Please provide instructors for payment.

 

Vladimir

202 258 1916

 

SM 345 " LIFE IS GOOD"

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020, 8:37 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

I have broken a few of these switches over the years. I have done this by reaching over the generator to retrieve something stored behind the genset.

I received a quote from my Onan dealer and on Amazon for around $90- plus tax which is ridiculous.

I tracked down the OEM manufacturer and the cost is about $23- plus a one time set up fee of about $50- I plan on ordering 2 of these. They stated that they make this for ONAN. If anyone is interested please let me know and I can order them for you $33- each plus USPS of about $8.00.

I will order the switches within a week.

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376 Kimberlite 


Re: Any SM owners use a Beta engine??

Mark Barter
 

Thanks Dan, I have sent those photographs to the fitter. He really seems now to have got on top of this job so I am more confident  that it will go well.

I can see that you have moved the fuel filter but I can't see where you have put it. 

I was thinking of putting the dual filters that I have bought a bit higher and the other side of the valve shut off extension.  
--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


Re: Replacing standing rigging - advice for other jobs?

Scott SV Tengah
 

Trey,

We replaced our VHF last year and our AIS antenna on the mizzen this year. Cables replaced with both. BIG BIG difference compared to the original 12 year old antenna. The original Banten antennas on ours were "one piece" so a non-removable cable came out of the bottom of the antenna. I replaced wiring with RG-8X cables. LMR-400 would be better, but good luck fitting that in. I tried and failed but maybe it's easier if the mast is down. I actually ran new VHF cable all the way to the helm station. My AIS could "see" maybe 10 miles previously and now I've seen targets as far as 45 miles out. I'm sure my transmission has gotten a lot better, too.

I used the Shakespeare 5215 for both VHF and AIS. I know there's some line of thought that you should get an AIS specific antenna as it is tuned for the specific AIS frequencies but I wanted it to possibly function as a backup VHF antenna, if necessary. The thread fits perfectly in the hole in the mast where the old Banten antenna sat. Use self amalgamating rubber wrap and good electrical tape on the connectors. I zip tied the tape for good measure.

One silly thing that I really really love is our photosensitive anchor light. Confirm that your A54 has the same Aqua Signal housing as we do, however.

When we're anchored for a week or so, I just leave the anchor light switch on the entire time. The bulb lights up at dusk. Earlier we'd end up leaving the anchor light on if there's any chance we would be away. Sure, LEDs are supposed to last forever, but on a boat....

https://store.marinebeam.com/indexed-bayonet-tri-color-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-series-40/

Also, our tricolor bulb was quite dim - this fixed it:

https://store.marinebeam.com/indexed-bayonet-tri-color-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-series-40/

hope this helps!


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com