Date   

Re: Genoa Chain Plate bolts Leaking in aft hanging closet

Matt Salatino
 

I apologize for not jumping into this fray.
My experience with sealing chainplates with 5200 were less than good. It s difficult to find things that adhere well to stainless steel. The native oxide prevents good adhesion.
After much research, I found a GE silicone product that actually had adhesion to stainless steel, printed on its applications. After using this, 6 years later, no leaks.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt
A50 #27

On Oct 31, 2020, at 10:01 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Ken,

I realize that we all use what we have available or can get when we are in remote areas, but, 5200? I am guessing if it seals the leak you have, you'll never get the chainplate off, and if it does not stop the leak, you will never get the chainplate off without taking some of the hull with it.

I hope that this seals the leak for you,
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Oct 31, 2020 at 3:40 AM Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...> wrote:
1.  Remove Rub Rail starting from Aft.  
2.  Remove all four lower bolts, then remove the upper single bolt holding the chainplate.
3.  Clean hole and bolt with acetone.
4.  Clean the Chainplate, Bolts, and Nuts.  Also clean the gelcoat where Chainplate will be attached.
5.  Verify no damage or pitting on all Stainless surfaces. 
6.  Put good amount of 5200 into holes.  Use a small toothbrush or q-tip to make sure that 5200 is completely covering the walls of bolt hole.
7.  Made the same pattern of 5200 which was originally on the chainplate. 
8.  Set the Chainplate in place and replace upper single bolt and nut. 
9.  Replace the 4 lower bolts and nuts.
10.  Clean up the huge mess of 5200.
11.  Glue interior back together with 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive.  
12.  Replace Rub Rail rubber piece, this was fairly easy.

Job, start to finish, should take about 3 hours.   if you have all the materials at hand.
1. 5200, Butyl Tape, or 4200
2. 3M SUPER 77 Spay Adhesive
3. Proper sized wrenches (two)
4. A friend that can handle some choice words, and he may also repeat these words, over and over.
5. Acetone.
6. Rags, and paper towels.
7. Large screwdriver to start the Rub Rail Removal.
8. Something like a screwdriver with a blunt face and a plastic hammer to push the Rub Rail back into place.
<DSC08731.JPG><DSC08688.JPG>


Re: Genoa Chain Plate bolts Leaking in aft hanging closet

James Alton
 

Ken,

   Great news!  Glad to hear that your all back together and that you decided to rebed the whole chainplate.   You should be leak free in that area for a couple of decades or so.   Try to avoid getting oil/diesel on any of the polyurathenes such as 5200 which can permanently soften them! I know how challenging it can be to acquire materials in other countries and that sometimes you just have to use what you can find.  The 5200 should give you good service in this application.   For the record, I have not had much luck with the Sikaflex caulkings though I tend to stick to what I find that does work and not change so my Sikaflex experience is limited to maybe half a dozen jobs.  My favourite caulkings to date are:  3M 101 original polysulfide caulking,  (No longer available unfortunately) West Marine Polyether Multicaulk in white and black and the  Dow Corning Mil-spec 3145 gray silicone caulking which is the ultimate for many applications but the adhesion is so good that you can literally remove the gel coat when you take up hardware so cut it loose with a sharp putty knife rather than just prying.  The 3145 can also take a LOT of heat so heating does not do much to aid in removal.   The Multicaulk is much weaker so hardware is easy to remove,  even easier than the 4200.  The Multicaulk is not destroyed by occasional exposure to oils.  I would consider stocking some of the Butyl tape the next time you come across a good source.  Butyl is great for temp. sealing jobs and seems to be storable forever so you will always have a sealant on board that is not cured in the tube.  I can understand why so many are recommending this type of sealant but I just don’t like the black sticky lines that are left when bedding with this material.  Functionally it seems to work very well.

  Hopefully you are back in the water or getting close.  Looking forward to your next episode.

James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Oct 31, 2020, at 4:14 AM, Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...> wrote:

 
Well, I ended up using 5200.  I bought some Sikaflex 295 (which is supposed to be like 4200) to do the job, as I could not find 4200 or Butyl Tape for sale anywhere in Krabi Thailand.  But, after I pulled the chainplate off, with the help of a friend, found that the new batch of SikaFlex had already gone off.  So, my friend helper, who has owned a boat for 40 years said WHY ARE YOU USING SIKAFLEX anyway...  That stuff is crap!  
 
Then he said a few things like -  
When was the last time you had the chainplate off?....  I answered - Well, never!
So, when's the next time you are going to take it off?...  I answered - Hopefully never!
 
Sounds like you need to use 5200, and I'll tell you another thing...  There is no way you're not going to be able to get the chainplate off if you need to...  
 
I had some 5200 in my fridge, so I pulled it out, and sealed it up....  After making a huge mess.  The job was done....  It was a pretty easy job, including removing and replacing the Rub Rail, it took about 3 hours.  The hardest job was cleaning up the extra 5200.
 
Ken


Re: New 175 am alternator

Karen Smith
 

This isn't advice, just our experience.  

Our boat was one of what seems to have been few SMs that were delivered with the "standard" 50 Amp alternator.  For the way we use our boat, that has been completely sufficient.  It supplies all the power we need when motoring, with enough left over to run the watermaker, or top off the batteries.  It's rare that we leave an anchorage with less than 80% charge in our batteries, so we are not normally asking the main engine alternator to deliver very much in the way of charge.  If we actually need to bulk charge the batteries while underway, we use the generator.


Re: Genoa Chain Plate bolts Leaking in aft hanging closet

Dan Carlson
 

Hi Ken, 

We had some slight seapage on the port side chain plate ( in the head storage compartment).  My remedy two years ago was to peal back the liner, thoroughly clean all around the bolts on the inside of the hull, then seal all around with silicone sealant. Then re-attach the liner. We have had no further issues. 

I thought that taking the rub rail apart to address from the outside was asking for more problems.  

I do not think that there is a structural issue with the chain plates just over time to seal has failed.

Thanks for posting the photos. That confirms what I expected to see from the drawings that I had seen.

Best regards Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387



On Sat, Oct 31, 2020, 4:40 AM Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...> wrote:
1.  Remove Rub Rail starting from Aft.  
2.  Remove all four lower bolts, then remove the upper single bolt holding the chainplate.
3.  Clean hole and bolt with acetone.
4.  Clean the Chainplate, Bolts, and Nuts.  Also clean the gelcoat where Chainplate will be attached.
5.  Verify no damage or pitting on all Stainless surfaces. 
6.  Put good amount of 5200 into holes.  Use a small toothbrush or q-tip to make sure that 5200 is completely covering the walls of bolt hole.
7.  Made the same pattern of 5200 which was originally on the chainplate. 
8.  Set the Chainplate in place and replace upper single bolt and nut. 
9.  Replace the 4 lower bolts and nuts.
10.  Clean up the huge mess of 5200.
11.  Glue interior back together with 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive.  
12.  Replace Rub Rail rubber piece, this was fairly easy.

Job, start to finish, should take about 3 hours.   if you have all the materials at hand.
1. 5200, Butyl Tape, or 4200
2. 3M SUPER 77 Spay Adhesive
3. Proper sized wrenches (two)
4. A friend that can handle some choice words, and he may also repeat these words, over and over.
5. Acetone.
6. Rags, and paper towels.
7. Large screwdriver to start the Rub Rail Removal.
8. Something like a screwdriver with a blunt face and a plastic hammer to push the Rub Rail back into place.


Re: Genoa Chain Plate bolts Leaking in aft hanging closet

 

Ken,

I realize that we all use what we have available or can get when we are in remote areas, but, 5200? I am guessing if it seals the leak you have, you'll never get the chainplate off, and if it does not stop the leak, you will never get the chainplate off without taking some of the hull with it.

I hope that this seals the leak for you,
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Oct 31, 2020 at 3:40 AM Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...> wrote:
1.  Remove Rub Rail starting from Aft.  
2.  Remove all four lower bolts, then remove the upper single bolt holding the chainplate.
3.  Clean hole and bolt with acetone.
4.  Clean the Chainplate, Bolts, and Nuts.  Also clean the gelcoat where Chainplate will be attached.
5.  Verify no damage or pitting on all Stainless surfaces. 
6.  Put good amount of 5200 into holes.  Use a small toothbrush or q-tip to make sure that 5200 is completely covering the walls of bolt hole.
7.  Made the same pattern of 5200 which was originally on the chainplate. 
8.  Set the Chainplate in place and replace upper single bolt and nut. 
9.  Replace the 4 lower bolts and nuts.
10.  Clean up the huge mess of 5200.
11.  Glue interior back together with 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive.  
12.  Replace Rub Rail rubber piece, this was fairly easy.

Job, start to finish, should take about 3 hours.   if you have all the materials at hand.
1. 5200, Butyl Tape, or 4200
2. 3M SUPER 77 Spay Adhesive
3. Proper sized wrenches (two)
4. A friend that can handle some choice words, and he may also repeat these words, over and over.
5. Acetone.
6. Rags, and paper towels.
7. Large screwdriver to start the Rub Rail Removal.
8. Something like a screwdriver with a blunt face and a plastic hammer to push the Rub Rail back into place.


Re: New 175 am alternator

Rink De Haan
 

Dear Stefan

I am no expert on this but when I was researching for a new 24v alternator for our 2001 SM with the Yanmar 75hp engine the Prestolite dealer advised me to stay with the original size.  
The snap in replacement for the original is 

http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/specs.php?pf=true&item_detail_id=32807&item=66021507&product=ALTERNATOR

For me completely sufficient and working like a dream. 


But also interested in the advise of others 


Best regards 

Rink

SM2k #330 Razor’s Edge





Re: New 175 am alternator

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

He Stefan and Anne

i would also like to see my Volvo Penta TMD 222 and 98
for under SM 222 bj 1998
At 175 AH, I'd be a little nervous about the power of 75 p of the engine, because a 175 Altinator also takes power from the engine.
i've been watching Alpha/110 or 24/150
they have a good cargo glider who makes the altinator have a three-step load and the altinator produce high AH by smal
upm / min .

https://www.mastervolt.de/light machine-24v/

But the tape doesn't fit and something needs to be changed.

I would be grateful for experiences from the gupp ?

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Re: .Re: LiFePO4 Conversion on sv BeBe - SM#387

Scott SV Tengah
 

We have 450ah victron smart lithium and during fault testing have run the bow thruster on our a54 with engine off. Voltage stays well above 24v so amperage is not spiking as it would with lead acid. 

The wind lass draws much less wattage and more than once have used it with engine off to shorten scope when our desired 7:1 swings a bit close to the neighbors. 

This is all with a set of batteries that have been used for 2 years full time live aboard and cycled over 100 thousand amp hours total. 

So my experience is that, yes , the high amp problem will be solved. 



--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: New 175 am alternator

Philippe Belloir
 


https://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/alt_search.php

Prestolite is a good brand, you can find product and advice with the link above
Fair winds


Philippe Belloir  
+33 781 709 791


-------- Message d'origine --------
De : Stefan and Anne Deerberg <stefan.deerberg@...>
Date : 30/10/2020 20:33 (GMT+01:00)
À : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Objet : [AmelYachtOwners] New 175 am alternator

Dear all!

we bought our OYA, a SM 2000, 373 in April.
now we want to change the alternator to a bigger 175 amp.
The engine is still the original Yanmar 75hp from 2002.

Is there anyone with good experience with a special brand?
Do we have to pay attention to something when converting?
Which alternator fits this engine?

thanks for your ideas, tips and experience 

Stefan

SV OYA, SM 373, Carriacou / Grenada 


Re: Genoa Chain Plate bolts Leaking in aft hanging closet

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

1.  Remove Rub Rail starting from Aft.  
2.  Remove all four lower bolts, then remove the upper single bolt holding the chainplate.
3.  Clean hole and bolt with acetone.
4.  Clean the Chainplate, Bolts, and Nuts.  Also clean the gelcoat where Chainplate will be attached.
5.  Verify no damage or pitting on all Stainless surfaces. 
6.  Put good amount of 5200 into holes.  Use a small toothbrush or q-tip to make sure that 5200 is completely covering the walls of bolt hole.
7.  Made the same pattern of 5200 which was originally on the chainplate. 
8.  Set the Chainplate in place and replace upper single bolt and nut. 
9.  Replace the 4 lower bolts and nuts.
10.  Clean up the huge mess of 5200.
11.  Glue interior back together with 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive.  
12.  Replace Rub Rail rubber piece, this was fairly easy.

Job, start to finish, should take about 3 hours.   if you have all the materials at hand.
1. 5200, Butyl Tape, or 4200
2. 3M SUPER 77 Spay Adhesive
3. Proper sized wrenches (two)
4. A friend that can handle some choice words, and he may also repeat these words, over and over.
5. Acetone.
6. Rags, and paper towels.
7. Large screwdriver to start the Rub Rail Removal.
8. Something like a screwdriver with a blunt face and a plastic hammer to push the Rub Rail back into place.


Re: Genoa Chain Plate bolts Leaking in aft hanging closet

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

 
Well, I ended up using 5200.  I bought some Sikaflex 295 (which is supposed to be like 4200) to do the job, as I could not find 4200 or Butyl Tape for sale anywhere in Krabi Thailand.  But, after I pulled the chainplate off, with the help of a friend, found that the new batch of SikaFlex had already gone off.  So, my friend helper, who has owned a boat for 40 years said WHY ARE YOU USING SIKAFLEX anyway...  That stuff is crap!  
 
Then he said a few things like -  
When was the last time you had the chainplate off?....  I answered - Well, never!
So, when's the next time you are going to take it off?...  I answered - Hopefully never!
 
Sounds like you need to use 5200, and I'll tell you another thing...  There is no way you're not going to be able to get the chainplate off if you need to...  
 
I had some 5200 in my fridge, so I pulled it out, and sealed it up....  After making a huge mess.  The job was done....  It was a pretty easy job, including removing and replacing the Rub Rail, it took about 3 hours.  The hardest job was cleaning up the extra 5200.
 
Ken


Re: Main Furler - Sail stuck / jammed

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hi Ken,

I remember the event; quite a surprise indeed

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM 007, NZ


On 31/10/2020, at 10:59 AM, Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...> wrote:

Hello,

While in Fiji, SM007 and SM2K262 were parked next to each other.  JP had a problem with his main, it was not unfurling completely.  So I volunteered, and JP hoisted me up SM007's mast.  What we found amazed both JP and myself.  There was a fiberglass ring around the sail about 1/2 way down the sail.   So JP could only unfurl 1/3 of the main, and then it would get stuck.  Together we worked the ring back up to the top, unfurled the main and dropped it.  We found that the ring had separated from the Mainsail Swivel.  We were able to reattach the fiberglass ring back onto the Mainsail Swivel with some 5200.  This could have been a bigger problem if happened at a different time.  The Mainsail Swivel on Aquarius SM2K262 is different than that of SM007.  Aquarius does not have the fiberglass ring, so at some point there was a change in the Mainsail Swivel.  When dropping your mainsail on a Super Maramu, one should verify all the parts on the Mainsail Swivel are tight and well attached.  If you have this ring on your SM, I would suggest using some 5200 on it and make sure it never becomes a problem in the future.

I was wondering if anyone else had this problem.

All the best,

Ken
Aquarius
SM2K262
Currently in Krabi Thailand


Re: Main Furler - Sail stuck / jammed

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

Hello,

While in Fiji, SM007 and SM2K262 were parked next to each other.  JP had a problem with his main, it was not unfurling completely.  So I volunteered, and JP hoisted me up SM007's mast.  What we found amazed both JP and myself.  There was a fiberglass ring around the sail about 1/2 way down the sail.   So JP could only unfurl 1/3 of the main, and then it would get stuck.  Together we worked the ring back up to the top, unfurled the main and dropped it.  We found that the ring had separated from the Mainsail Swivel.  We were able to reattach the fiberglass ring back onto the Mainsail Swivel with some 5200.  This could have been a bigger problem if happened at a different time.  The Mainsail Swivel on Aquarius SM2K262 is different than that of SM007.  Aquarius does not have the fiberglass ring, so at some point there was a change in the Mainsail Swivel.  When dropping your mainsail on a Super Maramu, one should verify all the parts on the Mainsail Swivel are tight and well attached.  If you have this ring on your SM, I would suggest using some 5200 on it and make sure it never becomes a problem in the future.

I was wondering if anyone else had this problem.

All the best,

Ken
Aquarius
SM2K262
Currently in Krabi Thailand


Re: New 175 am alternator

 

Stephan,

175 amps of 24 volts is a lot, but if you do change to a bigger alternator, you will likely need to increase the size of the wire from the battery bank switch to the 24-volt alternator. You will also probably need to change belts and pulleys. I really loved the fact the on the Yanmar engine all 3 belts were exactly the same.

Additionally, if the Leece-Neville 24-volt, 175 amp alternator is still working, I can think of several SM owners who will want to buy it. It is very difficult to find an alternator with that high of amperage and that is built as good as the Leece-Neville. Let me know if you want to sell it and I will pass the information to those interested.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Oct 30, 2020 at 2:33 PM Stefan and Anne Deerberg <stefan.deerberg@...> wrote:
Dear all!

we bought our OYA, a SM 2000, 373 in April.
now we want to change the alternator to a bigger 175 amp.
The engine is still the original Yanmar 75hp from 2002.

Is there anyone with good experience with a special brand?
Do we have to pay attention to something when converting?
Which alternator fits this engine?

thanks for your ideas, tips and experience 

Stefan

SV OYA, SM 373, Carriacou / Grenada 


New 175 am alternator

Stefan and Anne Deerberg
 

Dear all!

we bought our OYA, a SM 2000, 373 in April.
now we want to change the alternator to a bigger 175 amp.
The engine is still the original Yanmar 75hp from 2002.

Is there anyone with good experience with a special brand?
Do we have to pay attention to something when converting?
Which alternator fits this engine?

thanks for your ideas, tips and experience 

Stefan

SV OYA, SM 373, Carriacou / Grenada 


.Re: LiFePO4 Conversion on sv BeBe - SM#387

rossirossix4
 

Maybe I missed it but does the ability to put 12 lithiums in our SM Redline models solve the high amp problem?? In theory the 4 extra 31 series provide 50% more amp capacity.

Somewhat related.  On our Santorin we had a 250 amp fuse for everything coming out of the 12V battery bank (ABYC requirement at the time).  It was installed in 2003....Blue Sea, probably slow burn but we never had an incident in 10 years of operation.  I think the bowthruster was also rated 10 hp (correct me if this is wrong) so probably drew some high amps at 12V.  

I've posted this before but in about 75%+ of our bow thruster manoeuvring we are not in gear and have a habit of high idling our 175amp-24V Leece-Neville--probably feeds a minimum or 75amps into the system and helps to keep the voltage up.  Only problem is that people who might  be helping you dock can panic if they think that you are in gear.  Also have to pay attention to the salt water spitting out from the engine.  Also, I am guessing that most of us do this, but we also are at high idle when we use the windlass--whenever we are coasting or doing the final vertical anchor pull.

Bob and Suzanne,

KAIMI  SM429 2004 Redline 

Emeritus BRITTANY DE LA MER SN86


Re: Bow Thruster Amps rating.

Philippe Belloir
 

Hi,
On my maramu I have a Leroy Sommer motor 12v 500A 6000w



Philippe Belloir  
+33 781 709 791


-------- Message d'origine --------
De : Chris Doucette <amaroksailing@...>
Date : 30/10/2020 18:25 (GMT+01:00)
À : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Objet : Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow Thruster Amps rating.

Hi Dan,

I certainly will share what I land on here..  Also In the Class-T vs ANL. The Class-T max out at 400A  (what you have and seems to be working).    
I chose ANL due that I can put one on at the the Amp rating that will match the bow thruster (thus my original question of this thread).  I guess I will find out if it blows!  It seems here there is not a write or wrong- but it is good to see others being safe as well.  
Here is a good guide I found to fuses, use, and sizes.
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/Quick_Guide_to_Blue_Sea_Systems_Fuses_and_Fuse_Holders.pdf


Re: A question about coppercoat

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Arnold,

 We have had no need to clean and grind Coppercoat in the ten years that we have had it  , other than occasionally wiping off slime after a few months which we can do swimming.

 Have a look at the Coppercoat website--I think you will find that their major market is commercial vessels, oil rigs etc  They know about long water times and the huge cost of taking vessels out of use for maintenance.

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada, Greece


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Matt Salatino via groups.io <helmsmatt@...>
Sent: 30 October 2020 17:17
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat
 
We’ve only sanded once, 4 days after application. That was 7 years ago.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Oct 30, 2020, at 1:03 PM, Arnold Mente via groups.io <Arnold.mente@...> wrote:

From my point of view, the elementary problem is that you still have to go to the crane every year to clean it and grind it again so that it works.
Of course, this increases the costs if you don't want to get out of the water every year. 
My personal recommendation for those with long water times is still the tried and tested antifoulings for 2 or 3 years (Micron, Seajet ..). 
This form may be helpful for yachts that do not have epoxy protection under water from the shipyard. 
My personal question is always why is it not used by commercial shipping?

Best

Arnold
SV Zephyr
SM203

Am 30.10.2020 um 17:49 schrieb Ruslan Osmonov <rosmonov@...>:

Does CopperCoat stay in tact when hauling out? Given it is epoxy mix coats, I assume so, but still would like to ask. 
I use regular ablative water based antifoul and every year my boat has marks from straps. and where the straps go, antifoul paint is mostly wiped off and needs painting. 

On Fri, Oct 30, 2020 at 12:38 PM Matt Salatino via groups.io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
CopperCoat has been the least expensive antifoul I’ve ever used. Spread that “high” cost across 10 or more years....

Matt ~~~_/|)~~~
A50#27


On Friday, October 30, 2020, 10:05:24 AM CST, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:


Craig, That sounds expensive, but I spent $1500.00 on bottom paint a couple of years ago. If you got six years for $2300. ,that would work out  pretty well,if it works for you ,seems to have had different results for different people ,probably application error.
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Oct 30, 2020 11:20 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat

Hi Pat - check out coppercoatusa.com - they list an SM as needing 18 "Kits" for $2340. Site is a "must read and study".
--
Cheer, SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL





--
Arnold
SY Zephyr SM203


Re: Bow Thruster Amps rating.

Chris Doucette
 

Hi Dan,

I certainly will share what I land on here..  Also In the Class-T vs ANL. The Class-T max out at 400A  (what you have and seems to be working).    
I chose ANL due that I can put one on at the the Amp rating that will match the bow thruster (thus my original question of this thread).  I guess I will find out if it blows!  It seems here there is not a write or wrong- but it is good to see others being safe as well.  
Here is a good guide I found to fuses, use, and sizes.
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/Quick_Guide_to_Blue_Sea_Systems_Fuses_and_Fuse_Holders.pdf


Re: A question about coppercoat

Matt Salatino
 

We’ve only sanded once, 4 days after application. That was 7 years ago.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Oct 30, 2020, at 1:03 PM, Arnold Mente via groups.io <Arnold.mente@...> wrote:

From my point of view, the elementary problem is that you still have to go to the crane every year to clean it and grind it again so that it works.
Of course, this increases the costs if you don't want to get out of the water every year. 
My personal recommendation for those with long water times is still the tried and tested antifoulings for 2 or 3 years (Micron, Seajet ..). 
This form may be helpful for yachts that do not have epoxy protection under water from the shipyard. 
My personal question is always why is it not used by commercial shipping?

Best

Arnold
SV Zephyr
SM203

Am 30.10.2020 um 17:49 schrieb Ruslan Osmonov <rosmonov@...>:

Does CopperCoat stay in tact when hauling out? Given it is epoxy mix coats, I assume so, but still would like to ask. 
I use regular ablative water based antifoul and every year my boat has marks from straps. and where the straps go, antifoul paint is mostly wiped off and needs painting. 

On Fri, Oct 30, 2020 at 12:38 PM Matt Salatino via groups.io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
CopperCoat has been the least expensive antifoul I’ve ever used. Spread that “high” cost across 10 or more years....

Matt ~~~_/|)~~~
A50#27


On Friday, October 30, 2020, 10:05:24 AM CST, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:


Craig, That sounds expensive, but I spent $1500.00 on bottom paint a couple of years ago. If you got six years for $2300. ,that would work out  pretty well,if it works for you ,seems to have had different results for different people ,probably application error.
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Oct 30, 2020 11:20 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat

Hi Pat - check out coppercoatusa.com - they list an SM as needing 18 "Kits" for $2340. Site is a "must read and study".
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Cheer, SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL





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Arnold
SY Zephyr SM203