Date   

Re: Anchor sizing

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Victor,

As you own an SM, a 10 mm chain is vastly sufficient.. even a G70 grade 8 mm chain is overkill.

There are 3 grades of chain G30 (lowest grade), G40 and G70.  G40  is the grade installed by Amel.  As a suggestion, we have a 35KG Ultra with 100 meters of G40 grade 10 MM chain.  (We have been aboard 24/7 since July 15 and it never dragged. There is an additional 50 meters of 3/4 inch nylon line attached to the chain.  In the Pacific, you will encounter anchorages where the water is 35 meters....

Weight is also a factor in the choice.  Good luck and enjoy your Amel.

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Opua, NZ




On 18 Sep 2020, at 21:50, VICTOR MOLERO <victor.moleroxx@...> wrote:


This is a very enriching thread. Thank you all for such valuable information. I am also about to change my 30 kg. Wasi for either a Mantus 48 kg. or an Ultra in my SM. But I see no one talking about the size of the chain (not the length). Do you recommend 10 mm or 12 mm. My first idea was going for a 12 mm. but I fear it might be too heavy on the bow. The other option is to keep my current 70 m. 10 mm. Inox chain with a 30 meters line.
Any comments about this will be more than welcome.
Thanks in advance.
Victor 
Alendoy SM#314


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Dennis Johns
 

Your Santorin has a different gearbox than my Maramu but I know when I had my clutches replaced the mechanic was very careful in making sure the thrust washer was the proper thickness.  He actually took the time to fabricate one in his shop.  Do you know if the thrust washer was replaced?

Dennis Johns
Libertad
Maramu 121

On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 7:52 AM Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Just guessing, but have you tried totally disconnecting the cable from the transmission shift lever and shifting it by hand, thus absolutely eliminating adjustment as even a remote possibility?
Also, you say you can see the prop spinning with your GoPro - can you also observe the prop spinning faster when you accelerate (as you have observed the C-drive spinning faster when you accelerate? That might isolate your diagnosis.
Keep us posted on this intriguing mystery!
Ctaig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Porter McRoberts
 

Not that I’ve got lithium’s, but will hopefully at some point. Why not ask the battery manufacturer how to park the batteries?  Surely they have a recommendation?  Interesting thread. Thanks. 
Porter

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Sep 18, 2020, at 6:29 AM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:



In addition, in general, what good is a “warranty” if you are in several years 500NM to 5000Nm away from the “installer”. I have had problems getting people to back up their warranty while still being in the same location; they promise to come on board and don’t show up etc. etc.

Likely a reputable manufacturer will blame/question the installer and if not a factory affiliated installer you are “up the creek” in the “blaming game”.

 

Although not boat related, I am currently in something similar between a truly first rate USA insurance company and the official ASTON MARTIN dealer; both holding their grounds but I am stuck in the middle.

 

Best Regards Teun

 

A54 2009 #128

September 18, 2020 09:28:26

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arno Luijten via groups.io
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 09:13
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

 

Hi Joerg,

I don't want to annoy you but how long is the warranty on your installation? This whole "do leave the batteries at 100% for extended periods" is to preserve the batteries in 5-8 years time, not next year. So unless you get 10 years of warranty for more then 80% of the original capacity, they can say whatever they want.
My point is that I have a hard time believing these batteries will last for such a long time. And even Tesla with their 8 year warranty tells you to refrain from keeping the batteries at 100% SOC. They do have some experience in this field, more then Mastervolt for sure.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Teun BAAS
 

In addition, in general, what good is a “warranty” if you are in several years 500NM to 5000Nm away from the “installer”. I have had problems getting people to back up their warranty while still being in the same location; they promise to come on board and don’t show up etc. etc.

Likely a reputable manufacturer will blame/question the installer and if not a factory affiliated installer you are “up the creek” in the “blaming game”.

 

Although not boat related, I am currently in something similar between a truly first rate USA insurance company and the official ASTON MARTIN dealer; both holding their grounds but I am stuck in the middle.

 

Best Regards Teun

 

A54 2009 #128

September 18, 2020 09:28:26

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arno Luijten via groups.io
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 09:13
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

 

Hi Joerg,

I don't want to annoy you but how long is the warranty on your installation? This whole "do leave the batteries at 100% for extended periods" is to preserve the batteries in 5-8 years time, not next year. So unless you get 10 years of warranty for more then 80% of the original capacity, they can say whatever they want.
My point is that I have a hard time believing these batteries will last for such a long time. And even Tesla with their 8 year warranty tells you to refrain from keeping the batteries at 100% SOC. They do have some experience in this field, more then Mastervolt for sure.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Joerg,

I don't want to annoy you but how long is the warranty on your installation? This whole "do leave the batteries at 100% for extended periods" is to preserve the batteries in 5-8 years time, not next year. So unless you get 10 years of warranty for more then 80% of the original capacity, they can say whatever they want.
My point is that I have a hard time believing these batteries will last for such a long time. And even Tesla with their 8 year warranty tells you to refrain from keeping the batteries at 100% SOC. They do have some experience in this field, more then Mastervolt for sure.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Joerg Esdorn
 

Following up on my post further up this chain:  I received word back from Mastervolt tech support whether it is safe to leave the boat plugged into shore support and connected to the Mastervolt smart charger.   The response came both from Spain and the US:  yes, no problem leaving the boat plugged in.  The Spanish MV technician recommended turning off the charger once a month and putting a load on the battery (i.e. turn on some electrical loads) for 30-45 minutes and then reconnect the charger.   Since the Spanish dealer has also certified the installation, I will not worry too much about running the batteries at 100%.   

Joerg Esdorn
A55 #53 Kincsem
Vigo, Spain


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Craig Briggs
 

Just guessing, but have you tried totally disconnecting the cable from the transmission shift lever and shifting it by hand, thus absolutely eliminating adjustment as even a remote possibility?
Also, you say you can see the prop spinning with your GoPro - can you also observe the prop spinning faster when you accelerate (as you have observed the C-drive spinning faster when you accelerate? That might isolate your diagnosis.
Keep us posted on this intriguing mystery!
Ctaig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Winterizing my SM2 up on the hard

Patrick McAneny
 

Dave, Unfortunately I have had to winterize my boats over the last 40 years more times than I would like. All I do is :
Have at least seven or so  gallons of marine engine antifreeze in my engine room ,open and ready to pour.
Start the main engine allow it to warm up, take the strainer cap off ,close the raw water intake sea cock ,as soon  as the water level goes down start pouring in the antifreeze as fast as possible and be ready with the next gallon and so on ,keep the level up as high as possible.
Have a helper look over the side and watch the exhaust ,when  the exhaust is solid pink or purple ,shut the engine off .
Do the same for the generator .
Use potable antifreeze take supply hose off of the pumps ,or use another length of hose from the pump to place into the bottom of gallons of antifreeze turn on the water pump and have someone open every faucet in the boat one at a time , hot and cold side until it is pink . 
Don't forget showers and the cockpit shower.
I  drain my water heater and connect the fresh water inlet to the outlet  so that the hot water side of each faucet is also pink and protected . If you don't connect the inlet and outlet of the hot water heater and drain it , than you would need to pump a large amount of antifreeze into the system because it would be diluted by the residual water in the water heater.
I also pump some antifreeze thru the toilets .
Hope this helps,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: David Kurtz via groups.io <Davidwkurtz@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Sep 18, 2020 7:25 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Winterizing my SM2 up on the hard

I’m pulling Celtic Cross up on the hard this winter here in Michigan (42 degrees 32 minutes north) and I’d like to know what others have done with their seawater system in freezing climates.  I talked with EchoTec on my watermaker and they recommended pickling with some food-grade glycol to preserve the membranes.  The freshwater system gets drained so I can clean the holding tank.  However, the seawater system is complex.  I’ve got heat exchangers on the main engine, generator, and three heat pumps.  Plus the two heads.  Anyone have recommendations?
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross
Detroit, Michigan


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Brent Cameron
 

I had a similar issue with my old Yanmar. Like you, it happened after I noticed that the shift cable was binding and I had replaced it. I initially had no issues but got stuck out from the marina sand had to sail it in to my slip with no drive one evening. After some diagnosis, I found I had reverse but not forward.  I then (with the engine off) put the transmission in forward and swam down and I could spin the prop. Did the same in reverse and couldn’t budge it. For me it was a clutch plate, one side was completely worn off so the metal clutch rotor disk was spinning on the clutch wear surface.   I replaced the clutch disk and noticed that when I replaced the cable, I had somehow buggered up the adjustment so that it wasn’t fully engaged in forward and was slipping slightly under load. The manuals were completely unhelpful but I adjusted the cable so I couldn’t budge it by turning the prop in forward or reverse and it was still turning completely freely in neutral. The difference was measured in fractions of a turn on the cable adjustment. I suspect you have the same issue and you will go through another clutch soon if you don’t find it.   Of course if it is the key, you will likely be able to turn it in either direction when engaged in forward or reverse. I haven’t ever seen a key sliced in two though. Do you have a folding prop?  Could it be that it isn’t swing out?  

Brent

On Sep 18, 2020, 7:34 AM -0400, Grant Starling via groups.io , wrote:
I have lost drive on my Santorin.  It started when I replaced the morse throttle/gear selector and at first I thought it was bad cable adjustment meaning my gearbox clutch not engaging properly.  

Basically the problem is as follows.  I start the engine, select gear, when I apply power to accelerate, there is no increase in thrust from the propellor beyond that which I get idling in gear.  So I can move the boat around at idling speed in forward revers, but no thrust or increase in motion even at full revs.

So after adjusting the cable to ensure proper adjustment and still getting no joy, I looked secondly to the gearbox clutch as being the issue.  I thought at 30 years old its probably slipping and needed replacement.  So I rebuilt the gearbox with brand new clutch, bearings and seals.

Reinstalled it this morning.  Same problem is still there.....no drive.

The c-drive seems to be spinning up fine when I increase throttle, it increases in speed.  I can turn the c-drive by hand and it seem smooth and turns easy.  Put my GoPro on a pole and checked the propellor under-water, just to check there was no debris on it....it seems to be spinning fine.

So short of the propellor slipping on the prop-shaft, I am out of ideas?  

Has anyone had a similar issue?  What are the chances of the prop shearing it’s key and spinning on the shaft?  Sincerely hope this isn’t a c-drive issue....best Grant 

--
Brent Cameron

Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator

Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Ian Park
 

If the prop shaft alternator/ Vetus drive is increasing speed with revs then the issue is clearly after that. I have no experience of the mechanics of the C Drive, but I understand it is heftily engineered. 

l presume you have the original prop and my first guess would back up your idea that maybe the shaft key has failed so most of the idling grip is being produced by the propellor nut, but the extra torque is providing slippage. 

have you tried very gradually increasing speed forward to see if very gradual torque allows the nut to hold the friction. If you get some increase in speed then it would seem to be the prop slipping. 

good luck

ian
Ocean Hobo SN96


Re: Winterizing my SM2 up on the hard

Mark McGovern
 

When I asked Dessalator's USA rep Mark Fruehauf at Balcen (info@...) about how best to winterize our watermaker I got this reply:

"For winterizing I recommend doing a fresh water flush and then filling the High Pressure pump and membrane pressure vessels with non toxic water system antifreeze.  The easiest way to do this is to use a utility pump to pump the solution into the inlet of the high pressure pump.  It is also very important to make sure to blow out all fresh water from the product water lines and  flow meters"

I've done this for three years and so far it has worked well with no measurable degradation in either the quality or quantity of water being produced by the watermaker.  

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Anchor sizing

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Thank you Doniniqie and Heinz.
I only have 70 m. I would like to go for 100, but for the moment I'm using the combination of chain and rope because the last 30 m. very seldom use them.
Victor 


Loss of drive on my Santorin

Grant Starling
 

I have lost drive on my Santorin.  It started when I replaced the morse throttle/gear selector and at first I thought it was bad cable adjustment meaning my gearbox clutch not engaging properly.  

Basically the problem is as follows.  I start the engine, select gear, when I apply power to accelerate, there is no increase in thrust from the propellor beyond that which I get idling in gear.  So I can move the boat around at idling speed in forward revers, but no thrust or increase in motion even at full revs.

So after adjusting the cable to ensure proper adjustment and still getting no joy, I looked secondly to the gearbox clutch as being the issue.  I thought at 30 years old its probably slipping and needed replacement.  So I rebuilt the gearbox with brand new clutch, bearings and seals.

Reinstalled it this morning.  Same problem is still there.....no drive.

The c-drive seems to be spinning up fine when I increase throttle, it increases in speed.  I can turn the c-drive by hand and it seem smooth and turns easy.  Put my GoPro on a pole and checked the propellor under-water, just to check there was no debris on it....it seems to be spinning fine.

So short of the propellor slipping on the prop-shaft, I am out of ideas?  

Has anyone had a similar issue?  What are the chances of the prop shearing it’s key and spinning on the shaft?  Sincerely hope this isn’t a c-drive issue....best Grant 


Winterizing my SM2 up on the hard

David Kurtz
 

I’m pulling Celtic Cross up on the hard this winter here in Michigan (42 degrees 32 minutes north) and I’d like to know what others have done with their seawater system in freezing climates.  I talked with EchoTec on my watermaker and they recommended pickling with some food-grade glycol to preserve the membranes.  The freshwater system gets drained so I can clean the holding tank.  However, the seawater system is complex.  I’ve got heat exchangers on the main engine, generator, and three heat pumps.  Plus the two heads.  Anyone have recommendations?
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan


Re: Anchor sizing

Heinz Stutenbaeumer
 

When I asked the manufacturer for information about my schiffstyes and the weight of my Sm 2000, he recommended the 8mm chain. I decided to use the 10mm chain. Never had a problem. Runs very clean and without noise. 
100 meters CROMOX - stainless steel - anchor chains G6, dimensions according to DIN 766, Dim. 8 x 24 mm (CXA 8), material 1.4462 (Duplex), electropolished, seawater resistant up to approx. 34,5°C, PRE - value 35, breaking strength 66 kN, weight 1,35 kg / m, own production - Made in Germany

Cheers 
Heinz , sy quetzal, Sm2000, 292


Am 18.09.2020 um 12:13 schrieb Dominique Sery <dominiquesery@...>:


Hello Victor,
 
I changed the anchor but not the chain.
Because I have 100 meters (10 mm) stainless steel.
The locker can not store 100 m 12 mm or 14 mm and in Greece sometimes you have to drop the anchor in 20 m deep water.
But I think that 10 mm is too small, the chain is not heavy enough and the boat swings.
For the weight on the bow, I removed the second anchor and its chain, which I never used.
 
Dominique
Irko 1 A54-16


Re: Anchor sizing

Dominique Sery
 

Hello Victor,
 
I changed the anchor but not the chain.
Because I have 100 meters (10 mm) stainless steel.
The locker can not store 100 m 12 mm or 14 mm and in Greece sometimes you have to drop the anchor in 20 m deep water.
But I think that 10 mm is too small, the chain is not heavy enough and the boat swings.
For the weight on the bow, I removed the second anchor and its chain, which I never used.
 
Dominique
Irko 1 A54-16


Re: Anchor sizing

VICTOR MOLERO
 

This is a very enriching thread. Thank you all for such valuable information. I am also about to change my 30 kg. Wasi for either a Mantus 48 kg. or an Ultra in my SM. But I see no one talking about the size of the chain (not the length). Do you recommend 10 mm or 12 mm. My first idea was going for a 12 mm. but I fear it might be too heavy on the bow. The other option is to keep my current 70 m. 10 mm. Inox chain with a 30 meters line.
Any comments about this will be more than welcome.
Thanks in advance.
Victor 
Alendoy SM#314


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker seals

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 




These photos show what I received from Maud about a year ago.  I had it installed here in Thailand, and looks good.  I showed a photo installed, and how they cut it in the corners.  They didn't cut it like crown molding, they only cut out the bottom, and left the top to fold over itself.

Hope this helps.

Ken on Aquarius SM#262


Re: Last Call Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Eric,

I want jut to make sure that my name is on your list.

Vladimir Sonsev

96 Fiddlers Hill Rd, Edgewater, MD 21037

Tel: 202 258 1916

Best Regards
Vladimir
S/V " Life is Food"



On Thu, Sep 17, 2020, 6:24 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

I am ordering these switches on Monday—sorry for the delay.

They will be shipped to you express mail.

If anyone else is interested, Please email me with the

the quantity you wish and your MAILING address.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

I have broken a few of these switches over the years. I have done this by reaching over the generator to retrieve something stored behind the genset.

I received a quote from my Onan dealer and on Amazon for around $90- plus tax which is ridiculous.

I tracked down the OEM manufacturer and the cost is about $23- plus a one time set up fee of about $50- I plan on ordering 2 of these. They stated that they make this for ONAN. If anyone is interested please let me know and I can order them for you $33- each plus USPS of about $8.00.

I will order the switches within a week.

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376 Kimberlite 


Last Call Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

eric freedman
 

I am ordering these switches on Monday—sorry for the delay.

They will be shipped to you express mail.

If anyone else is interested, Please email me with the

the quantity you wish and your MAILING address.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

I have broken a few of these switches over the years. I have done this by reaching over the generator to retrieve something stored behind the genset.

I received a quote from my Onan dealer and on Amazon for around $90- plus tax which is ridiculous.

I tracked down the OEM manufacturer and the cost is about $23- plus a one time set up fee of about $50- I plan on ordering 2 of these. They stated that they make this for ONAN. If anyone is interested please let me know and I can order them for you $33- each plus USPS of about $8.00.

I will order the switches within a week.

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376 Kimberlite