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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading

Craig Briggs
 

Hi José,
Next time just remove the thermostat (don't put in the spare).  It is not too important anyway as it simply allows the engine to come up to temperature more quickly by restricting the cooling water flow - once the engine is hot the thermostat is irrelevant. So, with no thermostat you can clearly observe the flow of coolant by leaving the cap off. Then you can differentiate between a failed cooling water pump and a bad temperature sender (or connections in its circuit). As you noted, you had already eliminated a raw water problem. After you sort that out you can test the thermostats by putting them in boiling water and seeing if they open and maybe not have to order a new one (pretty unlikely you've got two failed ones). 
Going diving in Bonaire?  I'm jealous.
Ciao, Craig  - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
Re: Super Maramu Ballooner halyard hook

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Paul,

I think you are correct in that it breaks when sideways load occurs which should not happen if everything is operating as designed. The nylon hook has little tolerance to this loading. In my case it was because the alloy locating tongue for the swivel had worn through. If you read the Amel instructions for ballooner hoisting you will see the need for  very careful positioning of the foil track (and the swivel) which allows the hook to work.  I did not know that this tongue was prone to wear  and had many frustrating hoists of the ballooner when it was more luck than good management that had the halyard lock work. As I prepared for a Pacific voyage from New Zealand another owner made me aware of this small but vital item. But why did it wear through. Another discovery was the fact there is a nylon pencil or crayon in the track that the tongue is entered into. In my case this was missing through all my ownership to this point. Because it had never been there I had no way of knowing it was missing. I shared this information at the time. Until I found this the tongue continued to wear. So again Paul, you are correct and I fixed the symptom not the cause. However, I now have both and I am sure the alloy hook is doing no harm and I am protected from accidental loading. So folks, make sure your tongue and pencil/crayon are both in place and in good repair and enjoy your ballooner.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

Mangonui New Zealand

On 03 September 2020 at 23:14 Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:

Danny why is it breaking in the first place? If one forgot to take down the halyard and then furl, something will brake.! Have you inspect the groove at the top? I ones forgot it and the lashing between the hoke and the halyard broke I was sure I had broken the hook but it came down when sending upp the release slider. 
Paul 
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

Von meinem iPhone gesendet
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

t is perhaps a good idea to install a thermometer to control the temperature exhaust water . Then you have a reference .

Best Elja
SM Balu 222

Von meinem iPhone gesendet
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading

Kevin Schmit
 

Use a handheld I/R (Infared Thermometer} to get independent temp readings.


On Sep 3, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas@...> wrote:

This was a very useful 3-year-old set of postings for me.  We just crossed from Grenada to Curaçao sailing for 48 hours with double spy and 18-22 knots of wind from the starboard stern.  As we got close to Bonaire on Sunday morning, the wind began to drop and, to make sure we got to Curaçao before the marina personnel left, I turned the engine on to motor sail when the wind dropped to 10 knots. We kept our 6 knots of speed, and everything was fine until the corner of my eye showed the temp gauge pegged at 250 F !!!.     The raw water stream from the exhaust U pipe was luck warm and I proceeded to make a quick change of thermostat for a brand new I had on board.  No luck, the temp went back to 250.  At his point, it became a matter of sailing with winds of 4 to 6 knots as we approached the entrance of the Punta Santa Barbara channel that leads into the Ceru Boca marina and tied up at a pier on the channel just before the sun disappeared from the horizon.  Next early morning I  took apart the thermostat housing again, cleaned the surfaces, and closed it again.  The test appeared successful for 10 minutes or more at 1500 RPM under load  (Temp 200 F)  but as we proceeded to motor up the few miles to the Marina, the temp went up again to 250 F for just a few seconds before it came back to 230 F.   Yesterday, I ran a new test, this time at 1800 RMP for more than 15 minutes and the temp when up and remained at 220.  I noticed that with the radiator cap opened the seem to be movement of the antifreeze and few gas bubbles would come out once in a while.  This, I thought, was meant that there was a flow of antifreeze but its temperature was bearly warm. 
After reading this set of posts, It seems possible that it could be either a faulty sensor, the gauge, or the cable to the gauge.  Any other thoughts/suggestions.  I am ordering a new thermostat to the US in the next few days.

Hope you are all well and sailing.
Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM2K   278

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading

Jose Venegas
 

This was a very useful 3-year-old set of postings for me.  We just crossed from Grenada to Curaçao sailing for 48 hours with double spy and 18-22 knots of wind from the starboard stern.  As we got close to Bonaire on Sunday morning, the wind began to drop and, to make sure we got to Curaçao before the marina personnel left, I turned the engine on to motor sail when the wind dropped to 10 knots. We kept our 6 knots of speed, and everything was fine until the corner of my eye showed the temp gauge pegged at 250 F !!!.     The raw water stream from the exhaust U pipe was luck warm and I proceeded to make a quick change of thermostat for a brand new I had on board.  No luck, the temp went back to 250.  At his point, it became a matter of sailing with winds of 4 to 6 knots as we approached the entrance of the Punta Santa Barbara channel that leads into the Ceru Boca marina and tied up at a pier on the channel just before the sun disappeared from the horizon.  Next early morning I  took apart the thermostat housing again, cleaned the surfaces, and closed it again.  The test appeared successful for 10 minutes or more at 1500 RPM under load  (Temp 200 F)  but as we proceeded to motor up the few miles to the Marina, the temp went up again to 250 F for just a few seconds before it came back to 230 F.   Yesterday, I ran a new test, this time at 1800 RMP for more than 15 minutes and the temp when up and remained at 220.  I noticed that with the radiator cap opened the seem to be movement of the antifreeze and few gas bubbles would come out once in a while.  This, I thought, was meant that there was a flow of antifreeze but its temperature was bearly warm. 
After reading this set of posts, It seems possible that it could be either a faulty sensor, the gauge, or the cable to the gauge.  Any other thoughts/suggestions.  I am ordering a new thermostat to the US in the next few days.

Hope you are all well and sailing.
Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM2K   278
Re: Topping lift bungee replacement A54

David Crisp
 

Many thanks Ulrich.  Tomorrow's project!
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58
Re: VP TMD 22 removal

Matt Salatino
 

Heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Sep 3, 2020, at 5:26 PM, Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris@...> wrote:

Since you are starting to distort the nut, you might try a "vice grip" locking pliers adjusted very tight. Plus some PB blaster as Justin suggested.
--
Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL

Re: VP TMD 22 removal

Craig Briggs
 

Since you are starting to distort the nut, you might try a "vice grip" locking pliers adjusted very tight. Plus some PB blaster as Justin suggested.
--
Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
Re: VP TMD 22 removal

Justin Paulsen
 

How about using a penetrating lubricant like PB Blaster?

I would recommend a few liberal applications and some wait time to give it time to work.


On Thu, Sep 3, 2020 at 8:55 AM Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:
I trying to remove the Turbo for maintenance or replacement, but can't get the high pressure tube to lose. The nut is copper, key number 10 is to small an key number 11 to large. Filed a key 10 to the right size but still stuck. Tried with small blowtorch but did not helped. The copper nut is also rather soft so key/wrench is slipping. Any idea how to proceed?
Paul on sykerpa SM 259 Lagos Portugal 



--
Justin Paulsen
IT Professional

"The world is open, are you?"
VP TMD 22 removal

Paul Osterberg
 

I trying to remove the Turbo for maintenance or replacement, but can't get the high pressure tube to lose. The nut is copper, key number 10 is to small an key number 11 to large. Filed a key 10 to the right size but still stuck. Tried with small blowtorch but did not helped. The copper nut is also rather soft so key/wrench is slipping. Any idea how to proceed?
Paul on sykerpa SM 259 Lagos Portugal 
Re: Topping lift bungee replacement A54

tony wells
 


Hi David

Balthazar’s bungees were just changed (part of the preventative maintenance regime!). Nicky Sammut did it but I was off the boat. But Ulrich makes a good point - the nylon bolts were impossible to source in Malta. But because of his work on Amels, your referral, Antoine,  here in Toulon has “hundreds” of them :) So I will bring some when we meet next week. Meanwhile the sikaflex and a couple of salvaged bolts would hold the cover just fine. 

Tony
Balthazar A54 #102
Toulon 

On 3 Sep 2020, at 13:26, ULRICH DANGELMEYER <ulrich.dangelmeyer@...> wrote:

Hi David,

we had the same issue on main and mizzen boom.
On the main boom you must remove the cover from outhaul motor under the boom, so you get access to the bungee attachments. But take care, this cover is fixed by some nylon screws, they will be hardened over the time and will break in small pieces if you turn with an screwdriver. So you will need new ones. can also ordered by Maud accordingly you will order a new set of original bungees, which I recommend. Best, you will seal the cover after your works has finished with white plastic sealing , it also covers and protects the new screws from UV.
The original bungees are ready to mount, correct length and power and in OEM quality. No big adventure.

Hope this will help. Stay safe.

Ulrich
„Soleil Bleu“ / A54#088
<>

Am 03.09.2020 um 10:18 schrieb David Crisp <david@...>:

I need to renew the bungee cord in the main boom on my A54.  Can someone explain the technique please.  The only opening which gives access to the bungee is at the leech end of the boom and that’s pretty limited. There is is no opening at the mast end of the boom.
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58

Re: Chesapeake Haul and Bottom Paint Recommendations

Gary Wells
 

Robin and I have been at Hartge's Yacht Harbor in Galesville for three "summers" and have been hauled three times. Dockage is less than in Annapolis proper. 

They have a 50MT lift, and the operators are expert.  If you have an Arch, their lift isn't quite big enough.

They can do the blasting/nibbling, have a full up paint shop and rigging shop as well. 

It's shallow back here, so we are kind of slaves to the tides but I really enjoy the peace and quiet and hurricane hole aspect. 

Gary W
s/v Adagio, SM 209
Galesville, MD
Re: Topping lift bungee replacement A54

Ulrich Michael Dangelmeyer
 

Hi David,

we had the same issue on main and mizzen boom.
On the main boom you must remove the cover from outhaul motor under the boom, so you get access to the bungee attachments. But take care, this cover is fixed by some nylon screws, they will be hardened over the time and will break in small pieces if you turn with an screwdriver. So you will need new ones. can also ordered by Maud accordingly you will order a new set of original bungees, which I recommend. Best, you will seal the cover after your works has finished with white plastic sealing , it also covers and protects the new screws from UV.
The original bungees are ready to mount, correct length and power and in OEM quality. No big adventure.

Hope this will help. Stay safe.

Ulrich
„Soleil Bleu“ / A54#088
<>

Am 03.09.2020 um 10:18 schrieb David Crisp <david@...>:

I need to renew the bungee cord in the main boom on my A54.  Can someone explain the technique please.  The only opening which gives access to the bungee is at the leech end of the boom and that’s pretty limited. There is is no opening at the mast end of the boom.
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58

Re: Super Maramu Ballooner halyard hook

Paul Osterberg
 

Danny why is it breaking in the first place? If one forgot to take down the halyard and then furl, something will brake.! Have you inspect the groove at the top? I ones forgot it and the lashing between the hoke and the halyard broke I was sure I had broken the hook but it came down when sending upp the release slider. 
Paul 
Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Dirk,

 

I just had the same problem. Connecting an external gauge the pressure is normal, so I’m getting a new sensor. Note also that you cannot use a normal Volvo sensor, you must get the specially modified one that takes the bonding connection from Gwen Marine Service in France - €78.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dirk Hooff
Sent: 02 September 2020 12:44
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

Hi all,

 

since yesterday I have an oil pressure problem on my AMEL 54#96.

When I go from normal speed to idle, the oil alarm starts.

Of course, this doesn´t happen in the port but between the islands in Croatia.

My German Volvo expert suspects that the oil is too thin.

Diesel has probably gotten into the oil.

That´s why I changed the oil. More than 7 liters of very thin oil came out.

Then the engine ran again without an oil pressure alarm.

But today, when I switched back to idle, the alarm went on again.

I appreciate any advice or experiences.

Thanks a lot,



Dirk



AMEL 54#96 PÉNÉLOPE

Currently Croatia close to Dubrovnik







 

Am 01.09.2020 um 16:21 schrieb Courtney Gorman via groups.io <Itsfun1@...>:

 

You need a Puller it's much safer

but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge

-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54

I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.

It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced.

Problem;

Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out.

Does anyone have a better idea?

Nick

S/Y Amelia

Leros.

AML 55-019

 

 

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
Topping lift bungee replacement A54

David Crisp
 

I need to renew the bungee cord in the main boom on my A54.  Can someone explain the technique please.  The only opening which gives access to the bungee is at the leech end of the boom and that’s pretty limited. There is is no opening at the mast end of the boom.
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58
Re: Chesapeake Haul and Bottom Paint Recommendations

Ian Townsend
 

We are hauling out for paint, regular servicing and insurance survey at Chesapeake Boat Works in Deltaville late October. 

We are using Trinidad Pro. 


Ian Townsend
Loca Lola II
SM153


On Sep 2, 2020, at 2:51 PM, Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:


Hi Paul,  

Lori and I will be at Harrington Harbor N from 22 Sept until early October. 

We plan relaunch on 7 Oct and will have our bottom paint done by then. 

Maybe we will see you somewhere around there.

Best regards Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe SM#387.



On Wed, Sep 2, 2020, 1:32 PM Paul Stascavage via groups.io <pstas2003=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thank you Aras, Bert Jabins looks like a very capable yard.

Mark M, thanks for reaching out to me.  The information you provided was very helpful

Mrk G, Severn Yachting Center looks like a very good option.  Thank you for your reply.

Craig, thanks for your input.  We love City Island!  Fortunately, Harlem YC is open.  We think they serve some of the best food on the Island.  We dine there whenever we get the chance.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Currently Exploring City Island, NY
 
www.RitaKathryn.com

Re: Super Maramu Ballooner halyard hook

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Thanks Bill

Danny

On 03 September 2020 at 02:06 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Danny, good idea!
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
 
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Sep 2, 2020 at 3:37 AM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS < simms@...> wrote:

After breaking two I had one made in aluminium.

Regards

Danny

SM 299\Ocean Pearl

Mangonui 

New Zealand

On 02 September 2020 at 12:14 "James Cromie via groups.io" <jamescromie= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hello everyone - 
I would like to ask if anyone can recommend a US source for a replacement plastic ballooner halyard hook (for hoisting).  This would be for a Super Maramu 2000.  
Alternatively, I'll contact Sav.amel.

Thank you!

James C
Soteria SM2K 347
Petersburg, AK

 

 
Re: Super Maramu Ballooner halyard hook

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Paul,

I dont know if that is the case but now my hook is alloy it doesnt break and there has been no damage to the profile.

Regards

Danny Simms

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

Mangonui New Zealand

On 03 September 2020 at 00:02 Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:

Isn't that the idea to break the hook and not destroy the profile?
Paul on sykerpa SM 259 
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