On 25 October 2017 at 08:59 "Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good afternoon Eamonn,

Something I did 3 years ago but haven’t illustrated yet.
First you need the copper bar. Bill R. (s/v BeBe) provided the dimensions.
47 1/2” long, 2” width and 1/8” thick. It is bent in 3 places.
I followed his instructions: completely emptied then cleaned the bilge (not a fun job) as you will need to remove the float, etc. take the opportunity to clean it perfectly.
It is hold at the bottom by a 30 mm socket and you will need three 12” extensions to reach it.

Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 10/24/17, eamonn.washington@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bilge Bonding strap connection to the keel - stainless steel or copper
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, October 24, 2017, 2:21 PM


 









Today I noticed that the copper bar in the grey
water tank is completely corroded away at the bottom.
 Assuming I get a replacement bar or strap (5mm thick, how
long?), how is it mechanically connected to the keel bolt?
 Is there a special tool or some trick to do this?  I
can’t even see the keel bolt due to the murky water.  I
am in the process of cleaning it.
RegardsEamonn
WashingtonTravel Bug SM 151On the hard
in Cleopatra Marina, Greece.

 

On 25 October 2017 at 08:59 "Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good afternoon Eamonn,

Something I did 3 years ago but haven’t illustrated yet.
First you need the copper bar. Bill R. (s/v BeBe) provided the dimensions.
47 1/2” long, 2” width and 1/8” thick. It is bent in 3 places.
I followed his instructions: completely emptied then cleaned the bilge (not a fun job) as you will need to remove the float, etc. take the opportunity to clean it perfectly.
It is hold at the bottom by a 30 mm socket and you will need three 12” extensions to reach it.

Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 10/24/17, eamonn.washington@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bilge Bonding strap connection to the keel - stainless steel or copper
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, October 24, 2017, 2:21 PM


 









Today I noticed that the copper bar in the grey
water tank is completely corroded away at the bottom.
 Assuming I get a replacement bar or strap (5mm thick, how
long?), how is it mechanically connected to the keel bolt?
 Is there a special tool or some trick to do this?  I
can’t even see the keel bolt due to the murky water.  I
am in the process of cleaning it.
RegardsEamonn
WashingtonTravel Bug SM 151On the hard
in Cleopatra Marina, Greece.

On 24 October 2017 at 11:57 "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I am pretty sure that having a wind generator on the front of the mizen mast takes the mizzen staysail out of the picture.  I can not see a good way to make sure that the halyard and sail don't get sucked into the blades.  Even if the blades aren't turning, they are going to be a serious hazard to the rather delicate nylon sail.  Maybe somebody else has worked out how to make that happen safely...

Probably the easiest way to attach a block to the end of the mizzen boom is with a spliced loop of spectra or dyneema line larksheaded to the boom that the sheet block then clips to.  From there it will need to go to a block down by the gunwale so you can get a proper lead to a winch.  The mizzen boom is way too high to run the sheet straight to a winch--it WILL over-ride and make a mess.

I am confused about the problem with the back stay...  Just lift the working end of the halyard  over the back stay to the other side... and give it a flip to get it on the proper side of the radar.  What's the issue?  

Bill Kinney

sm160, Harmonie

Harris Creek, Eastern Shore, MD

---In amelyachtowners@..., <smilesbernard@...> wrote :

 

Hi Graham

Sorry to hear of the tangle

Hmm yes i think i understand the problem yo describe with the backstay in the way.... hopefully someone will explain :)

Did you , like others seem to have, attach the mizzen staysail sheets to the mizzed boon outboard end?

I cant quite picture this myself

I presume i'd add a snap shackle to the end of the mizzen boom and run the sheet from the clew through that and back to a winch.....

all the very best 

Miles

maramu #162

On Saturday, October 21, 2017, 9:50:06 PM GMT+1, Graham Cresswell grahamjcresswell@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Miles,

Good to see another normal (i.e. not Super-) Maramu. 

I've yet to fly my foc d'artimon as I'm suffering the same confusions as you are.  I had my first try last week and it was a disaster because I didn't notice that my wind generator, which is mounted just below the radar on the mizzen mast, conflicts with the mizzen staysail halyard.  Just as I was about to attach it to the head of the sail, the wind generator wound it up and I spend nearly an hour up the mast unravelling it - fortunately smooth seas! 

However, another problem was revealed.  The mainmast backstay, which is secured at the foot of the mizzen mast, in combination with the wind generator and radar, means that I can't see any way of safely moving the halyard from one side of the boat to the other.  So at the moment, when I pluck up courage, I'll only be able to fly the mizzen staysail on the port tack! 

I'm obviously being stupid as I can't believe this is how it's meant to work. 

If anyone else has faced this problem and found a solution, please share it! 

Graham Cresswell
Jamesby
M240
currently on the hard in Rodney Bay, St Lucia. 

On 20/10/2017 10:11, 'smilesbernard@...' smilesbernard@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Hello there

I'm considering my sail wardrobe  for a N Atlantic circuit next year

I've seen and heard on this forum that people rate the mizzen staysail highly 

I;ve never owned a ketch before but i'm interested in experimenting with this

However, my boat does not have a mizzen staysail onboard

I would be really interested in how this sail is supposed to be set up on my (not super Maramu

I  have seen a u bolt on deck just fwd of the hard dodger. Is this for the tack or does the tack attach more to windward?

basically any pointers as to tack and sheets much appreciated alond withthoughts on when the sail is best used. Downwind to beam reach, light airs etc? 

Many thank in advance

Miles

Maramu sealove #162

 

 

 

On Oct 24, 2017, at 6:14 AM, eamonn.washington@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Thanks Bob, Eric and Ann-Sophie.

Based on your feedback I will go for hatch covers to be made, if possible.  Where are the hatches on the SM 2000 ?

I will soon speak to the steel guy and request 3 top rectangular inspection hatches to be made in the 4 forward compartments, and one side hatch in the aft compartment (no room on top).  I was wondering about how to get all the fumes out before cutting.  Ann-Sophies idea of compressed air is good.  I thought of over filling it with water and draining.

The tank is empty now and the fuel will be cleaned outside the boat.  I am busy removing the last little scraps of insulation from the tank.

Regards

Eamonn Washington

Travel Bug SM 151 (1995)

 

Hi

My super maramu (not 2000) has, I believe, no access to clean the tank.  I know my tank is dirty since after 25 hours running the volvo the cleaned injectors are dirty again.

The volvo is out of the boat for a rebuild (2300 hours, but internal oil leak) so this is an ideal opportunity to create access hatches to the tank and clean it.  Does anyone have the tank specification, in terms of is it a single tank or are there separate compartments, and specifically where should the access hatches be cut?

As a side question, if I installed a day tank would that be a suitable alternative?

Thanks

Eamonn Washington

Travel Bug SM 151

Cleopatra Marina, Greece

My 1985 Maramu has an 8 inch SeaBuilt brand access port in the top on my fuel tank.  It has worked well and I have used it to polish my fuel twice in the 10 years that I've owned "Chara".  The only issue I have is that there is only one access port and this makes it impossible to wipe the tank side walls in two of the three compartments.  I'm thinking of adding two more of these ports so all three sections can be cleaned/inspected.  I have never had a dirty fuel problem and don't want one.

Bob

S/V Chara

On Oct 24, 2017, at 4:53 AM, eamonn.washington@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks for all the helpful replies.

I decided to do exactly what Bill suggested, mechanical removal via cutting access holes and welding back the holes again.

I removed the insulation, and by tapping the full tank it is obvious where the 3 baffles are separating the 4 compartments.  A professional marine steel worker will cut the 4 access holes and weld them closed again at the end.  All the fuel will be removed by another company and cleaned (if possible) and this other company will clean the tank too.  (I would like to get my hands dirty, but I simply won’t be around along enough for the job to be finished.

I mentioned the danger, cutting with diesel fumes, but I will mention it again.  He said he woud not do it if the engine was there, but I think that was mainly for the physical access to the tank.  (The volvo is in a workshop.)

4 Vetus insulation panels (60 x 100 cm) will cover the tank.

I will Also take the opportunity to install a second feed from the bottom of the tank and a second return tube at the other end in order to install a fuel polishing system.

Thanks

Eamonn Washington

Travel Bug SM 151