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Re: Aluminum Filler for Intercooler?
Duane Siegfri
Craig,
Carb's! Hah! So I'm not alone? Thanks for the reply/thought. Duane
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Re: Need diesel tank access
philipp.sollberger@...
Hi Eamonn,
I have just cleaned (it was a try) as much as possible my diesel tank this summer by a dieselist from perkins La Rochelle. My SM isn't either a 2000. The access was only possible from the bottom of the tank. He took out the valve and put a new one in. When it was deinstalled I could try to cratch the black stuff out. You will never get all out! For this I have a big filter (300 micro meters) and a second one with 30 micros meters. Before the dieselist let clean the dirty diesel by pumping out into a clean temporary tank with anti bug and push it back after have been holding through the night in the cleaning tank. Hope this helps for the first time. Good luck in Cleopatra Marina. I was there in 2000 during winter. Good price and good service. Fair winds, Philipp SM 124, Félicie, Switzerland
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Re: Need diesel tank access
smiles bernard
i'd be really interested to hear other people experience with this question of how to access/ clean diesel tanks I have a maramu 1985 and was wondering how i would ever clean the tank if needed I assume it has baffles to add a spot of complexity! On my old boat I cut an inspection/cleaning hole. Not the nicest job in the world, upside down in the bilges in 40+ degrees on the hard in Venezuela with a reasonably blunt hack saw blade. Happy days none the less :) All the best Miles
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mizzen Staysail setup, aka foc d'artimon, aka "Little Artie"
Ian Park
Gentlemen
Thank you all for the very illuminating comments. This is exactly the sort of discussion I have been unable to find elsewhere. My Santorin is my first experience of a ketch. I love it and have stumbled through a self discovery knowledge of how it works. The commentary on the use of the mizzen in balancing the boat upwind is one I must experiment with more. I also have the addition of an offset Hydrovane which is great but on some points of sail I have found it difficult to get the sail balance correct enough and the wind occasionally overpowers the vane. This is mostly when the sailing upwind. Looking forward to the coming season and honing my sail trim. Thanks to all once more. Ian Ocean Hobo SN96
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Need diesel tank access
eamonn.washington@...
Hi My super maramu (not 2000) has, I believe, no access to clean the tank. I know my tank is dirty since after 25 hours running the volvo the cleaned injectors are dirty again. The volvo is out of the boat for a rebuild (2300 hours, but internal oil leak) so this is an ideal opportunity to create access hatches to the tank and clean it. Does anyone have the tank specification, in terms of is it a single tank or are there separate compartments, and specifically where should the access hatches be cut? As a side question, if I installed a day tank would that be a suitable alternative? Thanks Eamonn Washington Travel Bug SM 151 Cleopatra Marina, Greece
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mizzen Staysail setup, aka foc d'artimon, aka "Little Artie"
James Alton
Bill,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I agree with your comments here. When Olin Stephens was testing the weatherliness of the infamous yawl “Stormy Weather” he was using his earlier smaller yawl Dorade as a trial horse. The winds were quite strong and Dorade was consistently faster to weather. So a decision was made to hoist the mizzen on Stormy and she slowly pulled ahead. I think that story is contained in Olin’s book “All this and Sailing too” but I am reaching back more than a few years… Those older very deep and narrow boats develop very little weather helm from heel so I think that it is quite possible that the difference in this case was just as you stated, a change from Lee to Weather helm. As I am sure that you already understand, Lee helm creates an underwater coupling between the keel and rudder that is in effect camber in the wrong direction (increasing lee way) and weather helm as you state reduces leeway by creating camber in the correct direction making the coupling between the rudder and the keel a lifting shape. While on the subject of balance, I wanted to say that my Amel ketch has the best course keeping ability of any boat that I have owned to date. I attribute this to the pretty well balanced hull and the Ketch rig but I would like to understand all of this better. On a sloop the CE of the two sails are both fairly close to the point that the boat wants to turn about so any coupling between the sails is not very meaningful or stable from my experiences. On a Ketch there is a significant spread between the Genoa and the Mizzen so a large turning moment can be developed when there is an imbalance and fortunately when the sails are trimmed correctly the imbalances that occur tend to be favourable for holding the boat at a particular wind angle. The stability I find is most noticeable with the wind forward of the beam and the mizzen eased to the verge of luffing and the Genoa just slightly over trimmed. As the boat deviates towards the eye of the wind, the Genoa creates a stronger force to leeward as the apparent wind increases and the Mizzen being already close to luffing (Which also happens naturally when hard on the wind since the Mizzen is flying in wind that has been altered by the Genoa and Main so that the Mizzen is seeing an apparent wind much closer to the bow) unloads removing some of it’s force to leeward creating a turning moment to leeward which is in the direction to restore the trimmed course. It would be interesting to hear more about what you have learned about sailing your Amel if you have more to add. I would like to add one thing that helps explains just one of the reasons that I have become a convert to having either a yawl or a ketch for a cruising rig. In addition to providing a tool to balance the boat, the mizzen can also be used as an “air rudder” to steer the boat when there is little or no way on. ( I have not tried this on any other boats besides my Loki yawl and my Maramu so maybe this will not work on all yawls/ketches. ) This technique can be useful if you find yourself needing to sail off of a mooring or anchor and do not have the engine available. It also often happens that the tack that you depart on can be quite important due to hazards on a particular side of the boat. In my experience, departing such a situation in a sloop is risky because there is not much control of which tack you might end up on. One brief wind shift and the backed jib can become full and drawing which isn’t good. With either my yawl or the Maramu on anchor (with no current), if I put up the mizzen and the main, then draw the mizzen boom to windward on the side that I wish to turn to, the boat will rotate in that direction. As the boat rotates, the main fills and the boat begins to move forward. By alternating sides it is even possible to tack the boat slowly to windward. I have so far only tried this in lightish air but in theory it should work in higher winds too. Maybe some food for thought. Best, James Alton SV Sueno, Maramu #220
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Aluminum Filler for Intercooler?
eric freedman
Duane, There are a lot of used and broken 4jh3hte’s. I don’t know where you are located but in the us I would try Oldport Marine in Newport or St Marten yanmar in St Maarten, they had a brand new engine that was run without Oil. I am sure you could find a used intercooler and use just the endcaps. If it were mine, I would just have a good machine shop weld metal back on the eroded intercooler and then machine them again milled flat and then machine a groove for the O ring. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2017 8:07 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Aluminum Filler for Intercooler?
I have the Yanmar 4JH3-HTE, which has an Intercooler/Air Cooler to cool the pressurized air from the turbo prior to going to the cylinders.
It developed a leak between the end cap (part 2 or Box A) and the body of the heat exchanger, which led me to disassemble it. . The part I'm writing about now is the body of the intercooler. The end surface of the intercooler that the O-Ring seats against has eroded from about 45 degrees off vertical on both sides all the way around, apparently due to exposure to salt water.
At the worst the loss of material on the face is 1.1mm, which leads me to doubt the O-Ring that seals the joint between the end cap and the Intercooler/heat exchanger body will be water-tight (I mean, it was already leaking!) . The End Cap has a 45degree bevel that the O-Ring contacts. The O-Ring is then sandwiched between the intercooler end face and the end cap 45degree bevel.
OPTION 1: I was thinking about trying to create a smooth surface using something like an aluminum filled epoxy putty (e.g. Hy-Poxy Alumfast Rapid Cure Aluminum Filled Epoxy Putty). Any thoughts on a material? It would have to be workable enough to file and sand.
OPTION 2: The other thought I had was to cut a thick gasket and glue it to the body of the intercooler to fill some of the eroded areas. The problem with this solution is that the End Cap will be able to compress the O-Ring less than before, likely leading to a leak. So really, this solution would "effectively" eliminate the O-Ring and depend on the gasket.
OPTION 3: Using a file, create a level surface by removing 1.1mm from the upper non-eroded area and flatten the rest to match.
OPTION 4: Buy a new Intercooler Assembly (Part 1 on the attachment) for $1,800.
OPTION 5: Your thoughts?
Thanks, Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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Re: Mizzen Staysail setup, aka foc d'artimon, aka "Little Artie"
greatketch@...
The mizzen certainly can add more drag up wind than lift ("be a brake") but...it depends on the boat and details of the sail plan if that drag is worth it or not.
I find our SM with main and jib alone tends to have a bit of leehelm when close hauled. Putting out the mizzen adds nothing in terms of boat speed, but... it changes the balance of the boat to add a bit of weather helm, which reduces leeway and we get up wind faster as a result. But, we are talking little, tiny, fussy changes here. I tend to fuss a lot more with boat balance than most people do. If I see my autopilot holding the rudder to windward to hold a straight course, I am going to do something to fix that. I was taught, by people who know more about sailing than I ever will, to never sail upwind with leehelm if I could possibly avoid it. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Harris Creek, Eastern Shore, MD
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Re: Aluminum Filler for Intercooler?
Duane,
Option 1 sounds splendiferous but probably will not last more than 50 years. Shaping the material after it cures is easy. Alternatively try JB Weld - similar stuff. Forget the $1800 option, but then I am an unrepentant CARB (Cheap Ass Rag Bagger). Good luck with it, Craig Briggs, SN#68 ---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailor63109@...> wrote : I have the Yanmar 4JH3-HTE, which has an Intercooler/Air Cooler to cool the pressurized air from the turbo prior to going to the cylinders. It developed a leak between the end cap (part 2 or Box A) and the body of the heat exchanger, which led me to disassemble it. . The part I'm writing about now is the body of the intercooler. The end surface of the intercooler that the O-Ring seats against has eroded from about 45 degrees off vertical on both sides all the way around, apparently due to exposure to salt water. At the worst the loss of material on the face is 1.1mm, which leads me to doubt the O-Ring that seals the joint between the end cap and the Intercooler/heat exchanger body will be water-tight (I mean, it was already leaking!) . The End Cap has a 45degree bevel that the O-Ring contacts. The O-Ring is then sandwiched between the intercooler end face and the end cap 45degree bevel. OPTION 1: I was thinking about trying to create a smooth surface using something like an aluminum filled epoxy putty (e.g. Hy-Poxy Alumfast Rapid Cure Aluminum Filled Epoxy Putty). Any thoughts on a material? It would have to be workable enough to file and sand. OPTION 2: The other thought I had was to cut a thick gasket and glue it to the body of the intercooler to fill some of the eroded areas. The problem with this solution is that the End Cap will be able to compress the O-Ring less than before, likely leading to a leak. So really, this solution would "effectively" eliminate the O-Ring and depend on the gasket. OPTION 3: Using a file, create a level surface by removing 1.1mm from the upper non-eroded area and flatten the rest to match.
OPTION 4: Buy a new Intercooler Assembly (Part 1 on the attachment) for $1,800. OPTION 5: Your thoughts? Thanks, Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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Re: Mizzen Staysail setup, aka foc d'artimon, aka "Little Artie"
Hey Ian, Sounds like you've got it sorted very well, indeed. Btw, it was Joel Potter who gave me the tip that the mizzen is a brake upwind. One other point is that Little Artie's sheet, if it's snatched to the stern cleat, is inside the life line railing, so it really doesn't hang up on the swim ladder. The pennant does help. As for the genny collapsing, it probably needs to be poled out and the main needs to be furled up - or it needs to be furled and the "iron genny" hoisted :-) When you're back in Grenada look up Maxwell Selwyn, one of the "cognoscenti" taxi drivers / yacht tenders who's a great guy and give him our best. Best, Craig Briggs, SN68 ---In amelyachtowners@..., <parkianj@...> wrote : Craig I hadn’t thought of running the ballooner sheet through the unused Genoa roller! Nice one. The two large blocks are attached to the rear cleats. As Bill points out Staysail starboard sheet does catch a bit in the swim ladder, and I will test out both your 1m extension line and the boom end. I have come to the same conclusion about using the mizzen upwind. It gets back winded from the main and hauling it in does nothing for the speed. One thing I have done down wind in light airs when the weight of the Genoa collapses the sail from time to time is to take an extra line and put a rolling hitch on the genoa sheet and lead it back through the stern block and back to the winch. The extra length of sheet keeps the sail flying better. There hasn’t been any conversations on the forum for newbies about changing from sloop to ketch. Most welcome! Ian Ocean Hobo SN96 (11 more days and back to the boat in Grenada after 18 months away,)
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems
greatketch@...
500 amp DC breakers are hard to find (although they do exist--at a price),
500 amp DC fuses are readily available. Breaking high current DC is hard, because the arc formed by ionized air carries the current. With AC the arc collapses at each zero voltage crossing, so it's easier to interrupt a high current flow. I know the thruster on the SM is a potent machine. If you are on the bow and not holding on when it is run you might end up on your butt--or in the water. I see SO many boats with thrusters that seem to not actually DO anything other than make noise, it is really nice having one that actually WORKS! I am not sure the logic that Amel applied to not put circuit protection in the wiring. As Bill R has said, it is not really fair to second guess decisions made 25 years ago or more. But it is also not unreasonable to revisit those decisions with modern equipment and tools. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Harris Creek, Eastern Shore, MD
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Aluminum Filler for Intercooler?
Duane Siegfri
I have the Yanmar 4JH3-HTE, which has an Intercooler/Air Cooler to cool the pressurized air from the turbo prior to going to the cylinders. It developed a leak between the end cap (part 2 or Box A) and the body of the heat exchanger, which led me to disassemble it. . The part I'm writing about now is the body of the intercooler. The end surface of the intercooler that the O-Ring seats against has eroded from about 45 degrees off vertical on both sides all the way around, apparently due to exposure to salt water. At the worst the loss of material on the face is 1.1mm, which leads me to doubt the O-Ring that seals the joint between the end cap and the Intercooler/heat exchanger body will be water-tight (I mean, it was already leaking!) . The End Cap has a 45degree bevel that the O-Ring contacts. The O-Ring is then sandwiched between the intercooler end face and the end cap 45degree bevel. OPTION 1: I was thinking about trying to create a smooth surface using something like an aluminum filled epoxy putty (e.g. Hy-Poxy Alumfast Rapid Cure Aluminum Filled Epoxy Putty). Any thoughts on a material? It would have to be workable enough to file and sand. OPTION 2: The other thought I had was to cut a thick gasket and glue it to the body of the intercooler to fill some of the eroded areas. The problem with this solution is that the End Cap will be able to compress the O-Ring less than before, likely leading to a leak. So really, this solution would "effectively" eliminate the O-Ring and depend on the gasket. OPTION 3: Using a file, create a level surface by removing 1.1mm from the upper non-eroded area and flatten the rest to match.
OPTION 4: Buy a new Intercooler Assembly (Part 1 on the attachment) for $1,800. OPTION 5: Your thoughts? Thanks, Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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Re: Mizzen Staysail setup, aka foc d'artimon, aka "Little Artie"
Ian Park
Craig
I hadn’t thought of running the ballooner sheet through the unused Genoa roller! Nice one. The two large blocks are attached to the rear cleats. As Bill points out Staysail starboard sheet does catch a bit in the swim ladder, and I will test out both your 1m extension line and the boom end. I have come to the same conclusion about using the mizzen upwind. It gets back winded from the main and hauling it in does nothing for the speed. One thing I have done down wind in light airs when the weight of the Genoa collapses the sail from time to time is to take an extra line and put a rolling hitch on the genoa sheet and lead it back through the stern block and back to the winch. The extra length of sheet keeps the sail flying better. There hasn’t been any conversations on the forum for newbies about changing from sloop to ketch. Most welcome! Ian Ocean Hobo SN96 (11 more days and back to the boat in Grenada after 18 months away,)
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Whisker Pole
I'm reticent to do that, Courtney, as the collar is a composite material of some kind. Kent Robertson
On Oct 22, 2017, at 1:12 PM, Courtney Gorman Itsfun1@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
kent could you heat up the pole to allow for som expansion to remove it? Courtney
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] staysail mizzen setup
James Alton
Bill,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Sueno came with a Dacron mizzen staysail that looks almost unused. The sail is a little unusual in that it is cut pretty flat and when properly trimmed has similar depth to my genoa so it is actually a pretty nice shape for upwind reaching. Being Dacron and also filled, it holds it’s shape unlike a nylon sail so it is efficient enough to add some boat speed at 60 degrees apparent and will trim to 50 degrees but I doubt it is adding any speed and is likely slowing the boat at that angle. If you think about it, there is a big open triangle between the mizzen mast and the Main and the Mizzen Staysail is filling part of that unused space. My other boat is a yawl and the mizzen staysail is 3/4 ounce Nylon, (the wife built this sail from a Sailrite kit BTW, came out really well) and it works well on a beam reach or further aft but is almost useless with the wind forward of the beam due to the sail shape. That nylon staysail weighs almost nothing, can be bag stuffed so is super easy to set. So I really like the Mizzen Staysail that came with Sueno and use it a lot but I would also like to have a light Nylon Mizzen Staysail for easier handling and off wind sailing. All of my previous boats (5) were sloops so my first split rig was the yawl and the Maramu is my first Ketch. Despite a bit more complexity I will never go back to the sloop for cruising, there are so many advantages to a split rig IMO. I think that Henri was very wise to select the Ketch rig for these boats, a good match. Best, James Alton SV Sueno, Maramu #220
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] staysail mizzen setup
greatketch@...
I am not sure what the sock-less "workout" is.
To douse the staysail on Harmonie, Karen sits on deck at the staysail's tack, we blow the sheet, and as the halyard is eased, she gathers the sail right into the bag. If the wind had picked up suddenly, we might need to head down a bit to put the sail in the lee of the mizzen. If the mizzen is not up, we'll head up to 70 degrees AWA, and let the sail luff. Either way, it easily fits within Amel's design standard of "doable by crew who can lift no more than 50 lbs". We find it easier to get this smaller sail down and stuffed in the bag than the ballooner, and even that is not hard enough to call a "workout." Of course, dropping this sail with just one person on deck, now THAT might officially qualify as a workout--or at least a runaround! I've done it, and the key is to be sure the sail is luffing, or blanketed, before you ease the halyard. I find the sail very easy to set single handed. Tack is attached to the deck, and head to the halyard and the sheet lead to the winch while most of the sail is still in the cockpit, where we launch the sail from. After hauling the halyard, the sheet is trimmed. Never had a problem with this setup--unless I get the leads wrong way around the shrouds. (Have I ever done that? "No comment!") I have used socks on asymmetrical spinnakers, and love them, so I certainly see the advantages. I guess the staysail just hasn't seemed big enough to justify the added complexity over the original Amel design--for us. No matter if you use a sock or not, the mizzen staysail is one of the real advantages of a ketch rig for passagemaking. You'll go faster and have more fun if you use it. It is a real mule of a sail, pulling hard when the wind angle suits it. All that and it is darn good looking to boot! Some trimming tricks (if you are experienced with spinnaker trimming, you likely already know these)... The smaller the wind angle, the tighter the halyard. Easing the halyard a bit as you head down wind, lets the sail rotate to windward, getting more of the sail out of the wind shadow of the mizzen. Like any sail, don't over sheet it. If the sheet is too tight, the sail will pull sideways more than forward. If you want to be really fussy, ease the sheet until the luff just starts to curl a little. Most cruisers will then pull it a little bit tighter so they don't have to fuss with it for every tiny little change in AWA. Experiment! The pretty pictures always have the staysail flying with the main and mizzen. It might make sense to furl one, or both, of the boomed white sails. You might find the boat balances better and sails faster or easier. We have had some fast, fun, and easy, sailing with just genoa and staysail flying. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Harris Creek, Eastern Shore, MD ---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote : Just a short comment here. Judy and I always answered the question, "What is that sail" with this answer: "Secret Sail." And if you try to set and retrieve this sail without a Sock, you are in for a workout. With a Sock, you can simply ease the sheet and then "blow the tack," then "sock-it." Use a shackle that can be opened under load at the tack. The Secret Sail is perfect for wind at 90-100 degrees and a lot of fun...if it is in a Sock. That Sock will cost between $150-$200. BTW, the Secret Sail on the 54s I have sailed on looks like a lightweight solid white dacron, but it may be nylon...I am not sure. Have fun flying your Secret Sail. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://www.amelschool. com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] staysail mizzen setup
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi, I find the mizzen ballooner incredibly easy to handle. Mine has a permanent extension to the tack attached to get it above the dodger. To hoist I pull an amount of the clew out of the bag with the sheet before hoisting. Then leaving the sheet loose I haul the halyard up, fast. Once its fully up I sheet in. To drop, one person on the deck at the tack the other lets the halyard fly, no restriction, totally free run. Person on deck gathers and person in cockpit releases the sheet, sweet. Two critical things. Don't release the sheet before the halyard, second don't restrict the halyard drop, it must go out totally free other wise the gatherer is fighting the wind. . Leaving it sheeted on and letting the halyard fly was a technique I learned years ago watching the americas cup racing when they had the big mono hulls with spinnakers. They would get to the bottom mark, and as they rounded let the spinnaker down as I described. It would lie out over the water fluttering and the crew gathered it in under the Genoa. I adopted the technique on my 42 foot race boat and most of the spinnaker drop disasters stopped. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems
James Alton
Craig,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Many thanks for posting the information from the motor on your bow thruster, this is very helpful to me. I am pretty sure that the Classe F refers the class of insulation used on the motor windings. The range seems to be from Class A-H with the most common class of insulation used being B which has a maximum temperature rating of 130C. The Class F can go up to 155C and the H to 180C. Your other guesses look pretty good to me, maybe one of the electrical gurus could comment? I guess we cannot tell for sure how many amps your motor draws under load and also what voltage your motor is seeing to determine the actual electrical horsepower. I have considered getting a clamp meter to measure large DC loads but that tool is pretty pricey. Can you give me a sense of how powerful your bow thruster seems in actual use? In my case, I seem to be unable to hold the bow up in winds above 16-17 knots on the beam. I have read that the bow thruster on the Santorin is more powerful than the ones installed on the later Maramu’s but I don’t have any other information so far on that. I will get all of the motor specs. off of my bow thruster when I return to the boat next season. Best, James Alton SV Sueno, Maramu #220
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Whisker Pole
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sounds good
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Whisker Pole
kent could you heat up the pole to allow for som expansion to remove it?
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Courtney
-----Original Message----- From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Sun, Oct 22, 2017 10:04 am Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Whisker Pole I don't think that's necessary, Danny. Actually, the composite collar is what overhangs the fitting. If I can get the fitting and collar out, I can just reinstall, properly this time. I think I'll buy a slide hammer, it seems there are any number of things it could be useful for. If I can get the fitting on the other end of the pole off, I can probably tap the stuck fitting out with a long piece of wood.
On Oct 21, 2017, at 10:56 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Hi Kent,
sounds like there is a bit of the tube overhanging the fitting. Why not do a careful hacksaw job on it, unless you feel you want to get back to full length.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
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