Date   

Re: Mizzen Staysail setup, aka foc d'artimon, aka "Little Artie"

Ian Park
 

Craig
Thanks for quick reply.
The boat already had two pretty substantial blocks permanently attached in front of the rear cleats. I assumed these had been for the Ballooner (but as you said you only need one). I automatically assumed they were for the mizzen staysail too, but at some angles the foot of the sail doesn’t tension enough leaving the sail a bit baggy. I like the idea of the 1m pennant - I’ll give that one a try.
There was no Santorin handbook with the boat, so I’ve worked mainly from the SM handbook where there are similarities.
Still learning how to sail a ketch! There are no books about it…..
Nice name ‘Little Artie’ !

Ian
Ocean Hobo SN96


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Whisker Pole

karkauai
 

I don't think that's necessary, Danny.  Actually, the composite collar is what overhangs the fitting.  If I can get the fitting and collar out, I can just reinstall, properly this time.  I think I'll buy a slide hammer, it seems there are any number of things it could be useful for.  If I can get the fitting on the other end of the pole off, I can probably tap the stuck fitting out with a long piece of wood.
Kent

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
Panama cell: +507-61171896
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Oct 21, 2017, at 10:56 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

sounds like there is a bit of the tube overhanging the fitting. Why not do a careful hacksaw job on it, unless you feel you want to get back to full length.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 22 October 2017 at 14:33 "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Yes, do be careful as that fitting can break - I had a clever Greek welder fix a cracked one for me by puddling a lot of new metal and it was a good fix. (Although I had a spare). My first thought for your situation was to get a new jockey pole tube and destructively cut off / peel the old one away from the fitting. Whatever you do, be a bit gentle with the fitting itself.

Rotsa ruck,
Craig, SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Oops, you're right, Craig.  That didn't make any sense at all.  It's the inboard end of the long (whisker) pole that was damaged.  When the machinist put it back together, he mounted the inner cone-shaped aluminum piece too far into the aluminum tube.  Now it doesn't stick out far enough to allow the jockey pole Spring-loaded clip to catch.

It's stuck fast, if I can get it out, I can reassemble it properly.

But I haven't been able to get it out, just looking for some tricks that might work without damaging the pole center fitting piece, or composite material collar.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243
Jacksonville, FL
 

 


 


Re: SM Furling Motor Brush Dimensions

Miles
 

HI,

As I have recently discovered, Amel used several different motors which had different brushes.  The only sure way to get the correct replacement is to copy the numbers off the plate on the motor and buy them from the manufacturer.  The motors on my boat have different brushes.  I just bought a correct set from the manufacturer branch in Canada (it is on the internet).  Cleaning all of the carbon dust (with a vacuum nearby) also helps the motors.

Regards,

Miles B ,  sm 216, Ladybug , in Newport, preparing to sail to Martinique


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems

Craig Briggs
 

Per James' question, on my Santorin the bow thruster motor is a Leroy Somers Type TF15.
The  name plate shows:
- PkW 6.3, which I take to mean kiloWatts (don't know P in french, but likely Puissance or Power), which would be 8.5 horsepower.
- 12V - it's a 12 volt motor
- 815 A - which may be a peak amperage or something, as it's different than the calculated 525 amps you get from dividing 6300 watts by 12 v above.
-  Cmkg of 2.3, which I'd guess measure of torque (couple in French, I believe) in meter/kilograms.
- Vtr/mn of 2650, which I'd guess is revolutions per minute,
- IP 20 which I think is some kind of degree of protection, although I don't know the specifics
- S 2-1 MN which I think is a duty type of how long to run and rest the motor, although I can't make sense of it.
- Classe F - which may be some EU rating system, I'd guess.
- The nameplate also says: "Important: couple de serrage des tiges d'assemblage" and 0.35 mkg., which my computer translates as "tightening torque of the assembly rods" .If the units meter/kg's that would be 30 lb/in..

If anyone knows the exact translations it would be interesting, although the key elements are 8.5 HP and 525 amps. There is no protection in the wiring.

Craig Briggs, SN#68

---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   Thanks for doing the testing and providing the results.  I knew that the SM bow thruster was more powerful than the earlier Amel bow thrusters but the upgrade in power is far more than I realized.    From your measurements,  if my math is correct, 420 x 24.1 = 10,122 watts/ 750 = almost 13.5 HP electric as compared to the unit on my boat having around 1.6 HP.  In the case of your voltage measurement, can I assume that the 24.1 volts being measured at the battery terminals rather than the thruster motor terminals?  

   I have never seen a 500 AMP or larger DC breaker so perhaps the lack of availability is this is the reason Amel did not install that form of protection?  Clearly the system has worked well for a lot of boats over a long period of time, but the fuses you mentioned do seem like a good idea in case a short ever developed.

   With the SM motor rated for 6.3 KW and actually being hit with 10KW+ I can now understand the reason that it is important on the SM to limit the burst time to 30 seconds to control motor heating.   With the thruster on my Maramu, a run of 2 minutes results in very very minor heating  (Maybe a 10C rise at most)  but then a thruster is generally only needed for short bursts so I think that the path Amel took to push the motor harder for a short duration was a good choice.  I am wondering if it might be possible for me to increase the power on my thruster by changing to to a different motor?  A doubling in power would be nice to have for higher winds,  perhaps someone else has already looked into this?      The lower unit of the thruster shares many of the same parts with the SM based on the bow thruster items I have ordered so far from Maude and I think even turns the same size prop as some of the SM's.  

   Would you know  (or anyone else reading this)  if the Santorin uses 12 or 24V on it’s bow thruster?

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Oct 18, 2017, at 8:52 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

James,


The SM does not have any factory installed protection for the bow thruster circuit.  On my boat the fuses on the battery terminals have a total rated load of 500 Amps, which is reasonable based on the ampacity of the wire used, and has never blown while in use.

And... since I am on the boat, rather than calculating, or looking up, or guessing...  I figured a bit of measurement is in order.  With fully charged batteries (and charger off) using the Magnetronic Amp meter to measure the current draw, and my Smartguage to simultaneously display voltage,  here is what I find:

The bow thruster draws 420 Amps at 24.1 volts.  That's where it stabilized after about 5 seconds.  That's with the boat tied tightly in a slip, so any movement of the hull would (slightly) reduce the load on the prop.

It figures...  almost exactly splitting the difference between what Amel has in the manual, and what the motor nameplate says.  If it matters, this motor was just professionally overhauled last year with new brushes, windings, etc.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek Annapolis, MD

---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   Good point about the voltage drop. I measured mine as dropping from 13.5 (charger was on so this was not an accurate test) to about 11.75 after a 5 second burst. 

   Does the SM have a breaker for the bow thruster and if so can you tell me the amperage?   I guess that the 6.3KW rating doesn’t tell us much since we don’t know how loaded the motor is.  

   Also, can someone tell me about how much free play is normal for a bow thruster?  I can rock the prop on my thruster back and forth about 3/16” without any resistance as measured from the tips of the blades.  The output shaft does not seem to have any play in it’s bearing so I assume that what I am feeling is the gear lash plus any play in the shaft to motor splines.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220




Re: Mizzen Staysail setup, aka foc d'artimon, aka "Little Artie"

Craig Briggs
 

Ian,
We use a small block with about a 1M long pennant fastened to the aft mooring cleat. It gives a very good run inside the life rails and under the mizzen boom with no interference and presents an excellent angle of the sheet into the sail. 

When you say you use your ballooner blocks, I assume you are removing them from the bow and snatchting them aft, right? (pretty much what I'm describing).  Of course you really only need one as you can't tack "Little Artie" without dousing and resetting him.

And, yes, the original Santorin brochure showed the foc d'artimon as being the same 3/4 oz nylon as the ballooner was made of. Ours, however, is conventional white dacron (don't recall the weight but maybe 8 oz.) Being a small sail it's very easy to flake and roll into a small package that's happy in the cockpit lazarette locker.
Cheers,
Craig Briggs SN#68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <parkianj@...> wrote :

Hi Dennis
It seems that there was an evolution of the mizzen staysail. On the Santorin (and photos of SM) they are made of the same material as the ballooner and are easy to handle and do stuff into the sailbag.
I am now unsure of where to sheet my ballooner having read this thread with folk saying to use the end of the mizzen boom. I’m currently using the ballooner blocks......
Any views gratefully received

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] staysail mizzen setup

James Alton
 

Ian,

   The mizzen staysail can be made of either either Nylon or Dacron.  The former as you state is much easier to handle due to the bag stuffing.  You can think of the Mizzen staysail a bit like being a genoa for the mizzen with regards to fabric and the sheeting.  The Nylon and deeper sail will be better for off wind sailing and the Dacron will keep a better shape for sailing closer to the wind.   The nylon is also less noisy if the boat is rolling and the sail is alternately filling and emptying.  And then just as you would use a pole on the Genoa when well off of the wind, the Mizzen boom can serve as the pole for the Mizzen ballooner/staysail to help project the area better and open up the slot.  Sheeting to the mizzen boom adds to the complexity and it may not be worth the small performance increase to you but we like to use it sometimes ourselves.  

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Oct 22, 2017, at 4:33 AM, Ian parkianj@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Dennis
It seems that there was an evolution of the mizzen staysail. On the Santorin (and photos of SM) they are made of the same material as the ballooner and are easy to handle and do stuff into the sailbag.
I am now unsure of where to sheet my ballooner having read this thread with folk saying to use the end of the mizzen boom. I’m currently using the ballooner blocks......
Any views gratefully received

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96



Re: staysail mizzen setup

Ian Park
 

Hi Dennis
It seems that there was an evolution of the mizzen staysail. On the Santorin (and photos of SM) they are made of the same material as the ballooner and are easy to handle and do stuff into the sailbag.
I am now unsure of where to sheet my ballooner having read this thread with folk saying to use the end of the mizzen boom. I’m currently using the ballooner blocks......
Any views gratefully received

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Whisker Pole

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Kent,

sounds like there is a bit of the tube overhanging the fitting. Why not do a careful hacksaw job on it, unless you feel you want to get back to full length.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 22 October 2017 at 14:33 "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Yes, do be careful as that fitting can break - I had a clever Greek welder fix a cracked one for me by puddling a lot of new metal and it was a good fix. (Although I had a spare). My first thought for your situation was to get a new jockey pole tube and destructively cut off / peel the old one away from the fitting. Whatever you do, be a bit gentle with the fitting itself.

Rotsa ruck,
Craig, SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

Oops, you're right, Craig.  That didn't make any sense at all.  It's the inboard end of the long (whisker) pole that was damaged.  When the machinist put it back together, he mounted the inner cone-shaped aluminum piece too far into the aluminum tube.  Now it doesn't stick out far enough to allow the jockey pole Spring-loaded clip to catch.

It's stuck fast, if I can get it out, I can reassemble it properly.

But I haven't been able to get it out, just looking for some tricks that might work without damaging the pole center fitting piece, or composite material collar.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243
Jacksonville, FL
 

 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems

Craig Briggs
 


Notwithstanding my comment of not to bother with them, you are EXACTLY right, Bill, and your engine starting battery fuses are EXACTLY what would have saved SM Miss Lindy from burning her wiring three times. You've made me a believer !!!
Cheers, Craig SN68

---In amelyachtowners@..., <greatketch@...> wrote :

Harmonie has had the battery terminal fuses for years. They work fine. 

In addition to the fuses on the house battery side, we also have a 300 amp fuse on the engine starting battery terminal. Also does the job. 

Keeping the boat safe in case of a short circuit in the wiring chase is EXACTLY why those fuses were installed.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Harris Creek, Maryland Eastern Shore


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sangaris@...> wrote :

Frankly, Kent, a separate chase seems a bit of overkill. Probably just disconnecting the engine starting cables every few years (maybe when you replace the battery) and pulling them out of the chase for inspection then reinstalling would be more than sufficient. And I don't think I'd bother with putting fuses on the engine cables at the battery.  Maybe on the house bank like Bill R did. Seemed he fused each battery pair, though, and I'd think just fusing the main cables to the 24v panel would do, like, I think, Alan did.
Craig, SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

Hmmm, thanks Craig.  Seems to me separate chases for Pos and Neg cables would be a good idea.  I guess I'd better add the fuses as others are doing.
Kent


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Whisker Pole

Craig Briggs
 

Yes, do be careful as that fitting can break - I had a clever Greek welder fix a cracked one for me by puddling a lot of new metal and it was a good fix. (Although I had a spare). My first thought for your situation was to get a new jockey pole tube and destructively cut off / peel the old one away from the fitting. Whatever you do, be a bit gentle with the fitting itself.
Rotsa ruck,
Craig, SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

Oops, you're right, Craig.  That didn't make any sense at all.  It's the inboard end of the long (whisker) pole that was damaged.  When the machinist put it back together, he mounted the inner cone-shaped aluminum piece too far into the aluminum tube.  Now it doesn't stick out far enough to allow the jockey pole Spring-loaded clip to catch.

It's stuck fast, if I can get it out, I can reassemble it properly.

But I haven't been able to get it out, just looking for some tricks that might work without damaging the pole center fitting piece, or composite material collar.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243
Jacksonville, FL


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems

greatketch@...
 

Harmonie has had the battery terminal fuses for years. They work fine. 

In addition to the fuses on the house battery side, we also have a 300 amp fuse on the engine starting battery terminal. Also does the job. 

Keeping the boat safe in case of a short circuit in the wiring chase is EXACTLY why those fuses were installed.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Harris Creek, Maryland Eastern Shore


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sangaris@...> wrote :

Frankly, Kent, a separate chase seems a bit of overkill. Probably just disconnecting the engine starting cables every few years (maybe when you replace the battery) and pulling them out of the chase for inspection then reinstalling would be more than sufficient. And I don't think I'd bother with putting fuses on the engine cables at the battery.  Maybe on the house bank like Bill R did. Seemed he fused each battery pair, though, and I'd think just fusing the main cables to the 24v panel would do, like, I think, Alan did.
Craig, SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

Hmmm, thanks Craig.  Seems to me separate chases for Pos and Neg cables would be a good idea.  I guess I'd better add the fuses as others are doing.
Kent



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Whisker Pole

karkauai
 

Oops, you're right, Craig.  That didn't make any sense at all.  It's the inboard end of the long (whisker) pole that was damaged.  When the machinist put it back together, he mounted the inner cone-shaped aluminum piece too far into the aluminum tube.  Now it doesn't stick out far enough to allow the jockey pole Spring-loaded clip to catch.

It's stuck fast, if I can get it out, I can reassemble it properly.

But I haven't been able to get it out, just looking for some tricks that might work without damaging the pole center fitting piece, or composite material collar.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243
Jacksonville, FL


Re: staysail mizzen setup

sbmesasailor
 

Hi Miles,

Frankly, we used a lighter weight sail I call a drifter on the mizzen rig rather than the standard cruising sail that is technically the mizzen stay.  The reason we didn't like to use the standard mizzen was that it was a real pain to fold being rather large and stiff.  The lighter sail we used could stuff into a bag.  As a result, we never used the drifter in wind over 15 kts apparent but then with wind over 15 kts, I was quite happy to cruise along at 6-7 kts with just the jib,main, and mizzen.

What hasn't been mentioned in response to this inquiry in the forum is the fact that the mizzen stay tack must be anchored about three feet above the deck to clear the main sheet (and the dodger of course).  When you have your mizzen stay sail made, the sailmaker can integrate this in the sail's internal stay or you can add it later with an extension -just make sure the sailmaker has the right dimension to begin with.

Dennis Johns
Libertad
Maramu 121


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] staysail mizzen setup

Graham Cresswell <grahamjcresswell@...>
 

Hi Miles,

Good to see another normal (i.e. not Super-) Maramu. 

I've yet to fly my foc d'artimon as I'm suffering the same confusions as you are.  I had my first try last week and it was a disaster because I didn't notice that my wind generator, which is mounted just below the radar on the mizzen mast, conflicts with the mizzen staysail halyard.  Just as I was about to attach it to the head of the sail, the wind generator wound it up and I spend nearly an hour up the mast unravelling it - fortunately smooth seas! 

However, another problem was revealed.  The mainmast backstay, which is secured at the foot of the mizzen mast, in combination with the wind generator and radar, means that I can't see any way of safely moving the halyard from one side of the boat to the other.  So at the moment, when I pluck up courage, I'll only be able to fly the mizzen staysail on the port tack! 

I'm obviously being stupid as I can't believe this is how it's meant to work. 

If anyone else has faced this problem and found a solution, please share it! 

Graham Cresswell
Jamesby
M240
currently on the hard in Rodney Bay, St Lucia. 


On 20/10/2017 10:11, 'smilesbernard@...' smilesbernard@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
Hello there
I'm considering my sail wardrobe  for a N Atlantic circuit next year
I've seen and heard on this forum that people rate the mizzen staysail highly 
I;ve never owned a ketch before but i'm interested in experimenting with this
However, my boat does not have a mizzen staysail onboard

I would be really interested in how this sail is supposed to be set up on my (not super Maramu
I  have seen a u bolt on deck just fwd of the hard dodger. Is this for the tack or does the tack attach more to windward?

basically any pointers as to tack and sheets much appreciated alond withthoughts on when the sail is best used. Downwind to beam reach, light airs etc? 

Many thank in advance
Miles
Maramu sealove #162



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Furling Motor Brush Dimensions

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Hajo,

your dimensions seem quite different to mine and perhaps I should have said the mainsail furling motor. The sides of my brushes are 8mm x 10mm so I guess we are talking about different motors. Maybe Amel changed the motor during the evolution of the SM?

If you are talking about the genoa furling motor then I shall get some spares from Josef Mack as I am sure that one day soon I will need them.

Thank you so much for your help.

Regards

Ian SM2K 414 Crusader (2003) Larnaca.



On 18/10/2017 18:20, Amw amw08@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
Hi Ian,
The brushes I bought have the dimension of 16x6x22 mm.
I bought it at Josef Mack GmbH & Co.Kg , Gießener Straße 49, 3505 Grünberg, Germany
Tel. 0049 6401 2106 09-0, Fax 0049 6401 4910 or info at mack-kohlebuersten.de.

Hope this helps

Hajo
Serafine SM 150
Carloforte, San Pietro



Von meinem iPad gesendet

Am 18.10.2017 um 18:43 schrieb Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hi,

can anyone please tell me the LENGTH of the carbon brushes for the Leroy
furling motor when they are new? I am trying to source spare brushes
locally or on eBay but do not have a new brush left to measure.
Obviously I can measure the side dimensions from my worn ones. If
possible can you please state the length in millimeters.

Incidentally, when the motor starts to play up I found that swapping the
top and bottom brushes over the best way of restoring normal operations.
Cleaning the brush surfaces and the commutator only worked for one or
two cycles whereas swapping the brushes seemed to fix the problem more
permanently.

With thanks

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader Larnaca Cyprus



Re: Whisker Pole

Craig Briggs
 

Hey Kent, 

Can't quite tell what the problem is. If we call the long pole the whisker pole and the short one to the mast a jockey pole, I'm not understanding how the whisker pole won't connect to the jockey pole, since it seems you're saying it was the outboard end of the whisker pole, which is the block for the jib/balooner sheet, that was damaged. 
So, if that's the case, it seems the outboard end of the jockey pole and the inboard end of the whisker pole were not damaged and there should be no problem.  What am I missing? 

Or was it the inboard end of the whisker pole that was damaged? Or, if it's the jockey pole that was damaged and it's now too short, it seems you'll need a new piece of tube - cheap fix and just reuse the end fittings. Then again, if it's the inboard end of the whisker pole, can you use your FINE tool with a cutting blade to cut off the aluminum extrusion and twist/pull/peel the aluminum tube to get the rivets free? Shouldn't be a problem if the whisker pole is a few inches short.

Cheers, Craig SN68 - at Bridge Ponte Marine, New Bern, NC waiting for a weather window south.


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

Hi All.
While I was sailing upthe Gulf Stream this Spring, I got caught in a microburst and one of my whisker poles dipped in the water, twisting it enough to break the rivets that hold the outboard end in the pole. I couldn't remove it and took it to a machine shop that removed it, but replaced the piece too far inboard and I discovered on the way to Jacksonville that it wouldn't stay clipped to the articulating piece on the jockey pole. I drilled out the rivets but can't budge the fitting.
Has anyone had this problem, or removed the fitting? If so, how did you get it out?
Thanks in advance.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy
Jacksonville, FL UNTIL Dec 1


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems

Craig Briggs
 

Frankly, Kent, a separate chase seems a bit of overkill. Probably just disconnecting the engine starting cables every few years (maybe when you replace the battery) and pulling them out of the chase for inspection then reinstalling would be more than sufficient. And I don't think I'd bother with putting fuses on the engine cables at the battery.  Maybe on the house bank like Bill R did. Seemed he fused each battery pair, though, and I'd think just fusing the main cables to the 24v panel would do, like, I think, Alan did.
Craig, SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

Hmmm, thanks Craig.  Seems to me separate chases for Pos and Neg cables would be a good idea.  I guess I'd better add the fuses as others are doing.
Kent



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems

James Alton
 

Gabriele Antolini,

   First congratulations on continuing to cruise on your Amel at 78, you are an inspiration.  One of the reasons that I selected an Amel is to hopefully extend my cruising years for as long as possible.  I hope that you have many more enjoyable years aboard Sunny Side.  Second,  I feel quite sure that you have cleared up the confusion that I had about Sueno's bow thruster and I feel a little embarrassed that I did not figure out my error until you pointed it out.   I apparently either got some bad original instruction on the function of the 100 Amp breaker on the Port side of the forward cabin or wasn't paying close enough attention because it has been my understanding that this breaker needed to be on to operate the bow thruster.   I have been dutifully turning the breaker on before each use of the bow thruster and of course it worked each time so all seemed fine.  After reading your post I realized that I have seen the connections of the two large power cables to the bow thruster relay on the Port side of the bow thruster just as you described on your boat.  So the 100 Amp breaker is not providing the power for my bow thruster, hence the electrical horsepower that I was calculating was not correct.  In retrospect this makes a lot more sense, why would Amel run such large cables forward in my boat and then distribute the power through a 100 Amp breaker?  I really should have caught that one...    I guess this is an example of what makes this forum so valuable.  I look forward to learning more about my Amel,  both through reading and from spending time on the boat.  I hope to meet you out there someday.  Thanks.

James Alton
SV,  Sueno,  Maramu #220
Arbatax,  Italy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] staysail mizzen setup

James Alton
 

Miles,

   We use the Mizzen staysail on our Maramu a lot.  We use the sail from about 60 degrees to about 120 degrees apparent and it often adds almost a  knot of boat speed.  I am pretty sure that the Staysail is larger than the mainsail in total area.  It does have to come down when you need to tack or jibe but we find the sail to be pretty easy to handle and only use it in winds up to about 15 knots with the wind forward of the beam and 20 aft which keeps things manageable.  We use the U bolt you mentioned ahead of the windshield for the tack.  The Optimum sheeting position for the clew varies with the apparent wind angle,  (sort of same as with the genoa). The end of the mizzen boom seems to work pretty well for broad reaching to open up the slot between the mizzen.  This is  my second season with our Maramu so hopefully you will get more detailed input from others.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Oct 20, 2017, at 7:11 AM, 'smilesbernard@...' smilesbernard@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hello there
I'm considering my sail wardrobe  for a N Atlantic circuit next year
I've seen and heard on this forum that people rate the mizzen staysail highly 
I;ve never owned a ketch before but i'm interested in experimenting with this
However, my boat does not have a mizzen staysail onboard

I would be really interested in how this sail is supposed to be set up on my (not super Maramu
I  have seen a u bolt on deck just fwd of the hard dodger. Is this for the tack or does the tack attach more to windward?

basically any pointers as to tack and sheets much appreciated alond withthoughts on when the sail is best used. Downwind to beam reach, light airs etc? 

Many thank in advance
Miles
Maramu sealove #162



Re: staysail mizzen setup

Ian Townsend
 

I was hoping that it might be the artimon staysail (or secret sail as Bill likes to call it). But it is an old regular mizzen sail.

Ian