Date   

Re: Timer for autmatic watermaker flush

 

Yes, and let me add a warning about a potential mistake...I made it when I first did this.

Mark McGovern is correct about the solenoid that he says I used, but it was not the first one I used. The first one I used was indeed 24 volts, but AC rather than DC voltage. There are many 24VAC solenoid water valves available because this is what many lawn sprinkler systems use. And that is what I used until it failed about 2-3 months later. Be sure to check for DC Voltage:
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Nov 28, 2020 at 1:16 PM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:
Eric,

This programmable timer is very similar if not identical to the one that Bill Rouse has posted about using for this purpose:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/224040425984

You also need a 24vdc solenoid like this one for the timer to control the flow of freshwater:  https://www.burkert-usa.com/en/products/solenoid-valves/water-solenoid-valves/221602  

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Timer for autmatic watermaker flush

Mark McGovern
 

Eric,

This programmable timer is very similar if not identical to the one that Bill Rouse has posted about using for this purpose:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/224040425984

You also need a 24vdc solenoid like this one for the timer to control the flow of freshwater:  https://www.burkert-usa.com/en/products/solenoid-valves/water-solenoid-valves/221602  

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Sea Chest Clog Alarm

 

Karen,

I do not have the precise vacuum, but I imagine that Amel probably adjusts the vacuum switch when it is installed. Here is the information I have in my book. The source of this information was Amel:
The Amel Sea Chest has an Amel innovative Vacuum Switch attached
via a hose to the Sea Chest Manifold. The Vacuum Switch is located
above the sea chest. Sea Chest blockage will create suction inside the
Sea Chest, which closes the switch, activating an alarm. Test this alarm
switch by closing the Sea Chest valve for up to 8 seconds while the engine
is running.

The internal part of the switch can get clogged as well as the curved
copper pipe. If the alarm isn't working, check for clogs.
To adjust the sensitivity of the vacuum switch, remove the top screw, then
using a jeweler's flat head screwdriver, inserted into a tiny, concealed
adjuster screw adjust the sensitivity. Turning the small screw clockwise,
increases sensitivity and the alarm comes on. Anticlockwise and the alarm
stops. Through trial and error, you will find the ‘sweet spot’ by running
the fridges, AC, engine, and generator at the same time. NOTE:
Adjusting sensitivity doesn't require the removal of the Vacuum Switch.

image.png

Also, if you order the sensor from Amel and have the one below on the left, you will find it has changed to the one below on the right.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Nov 28, 2020 at 5:18 AM Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:
I believe it is a vacuum activated switch as I remember doing to some work on the A/C unit that required the seacock to be closed. When I fired it back up with the sea cock closed it activated pretty much straight away

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Karen Smith via groups.io <karenharmonie=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Sent: Saturday, 28 November 2020 3:24 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Sea Chest Clog Alarm
 
Those of you who have a newer SM with the switch that triggers the alarm for a clogged seachest:  

Does anybody know the pressure setpoint of this switch?


Timer for autmatic watermaker flush

eric freedman
 

Hi,

Some of you use a timer to activate the flush mechanism for the watermaker.

What model unit do you use?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Re: Sea Chest

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, While sailing back from Bermuda on a starboard tack ,my gen set shut down several times,I found that there was no water in the strainer,taking off the cap allowed it to fill. What do you think about inserting a very small tube in the lid and run  it up under the cockpit floor ,maybe with a one way valve ,so that an air lock would not form. Just a thought.
Pat
SM #123


-----Original Message-----
From: Karen Smith via groups.io <karenharmonie@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Nov 27, 2020 4:34 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sea Chest

Chris,

I have taken the photos and annotated them with the parts list.  

All of the fittings I used are standard NPT pipe fittings.  In the case of the outlet fitting on the strainer, that is actually a female 1-1/2” BSP thread.  In this size, the NPT and BSP threads are compatible enough that they will screw together just fine, but they will not make a reliable high pressure seal.  Don’t expect “teflon tape” to help here.  You’ll need paste type pipe sealant.  For the very low pressures seen here, it works fine despite the small mismatch in thread shapes..

We have been running this long enough now, we can confidently say that it works with no issues. Well, no issues that were not already there with the stock Amel manifold.

Here is the only problem we have with the “sea chest” design.  As we sail, air is entrained under the hull.  Some of this air finds the sea chest thruhull and rises into it, displacing the water.  If we are sailing fast, enough air comes through that in a very few hours the strainer and standpipe are empty of water. I am pretty confident that needing to purge this entrained air is the primary reason that the generators on Amel’s have such short lived raw water impellers.  I have a couple of ideas on how to improve this situation, but nothing ready to implement yet.

Our new generator has a hair trigger on its exhaust temperature shutdown which has made this problem more obvious.  Occasionally, and only when we are sailing, the high exhaust temp triggers a shut down right after it starts.  A second start try and it runs fine. If I crack the lid of the strainer and purge the air, it never happens. 

Short of closing the sea cock, I can’t think of a way to keep the air out, so I am trying to figure out a way to easily purge it.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA



Re: Sea Chest Clog Alarm

Alan Grayson
 

I believe it is a vacuum activated switch as I remember doing to some work on the A/C unit that required the seacock to be closed. When I fired it back up with the sea cock closed it activated pretty much straight away


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Karen Smith via groups.io <karenharmonie@...>
Sent: Saturday, 28 November 2020 3:24 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Sea Chest Clog Alarm
 
Those of you who have a newer SM with the switch that triggers the alarm for a clogged seachest:  

Does anybody know the pressure setpoint of this switch?


Re: Sea Chest

Clive Chapman
 

Would an automatic vent from a central heating system help? Something like this: https://www.toolstation.com/reliance-automatic-air-vent-push-fit/p74735

Would need to find one that is seawater safe. 


Re: Sea Chest

Karen Smith
 

Matt, 

Obviously great minds think alike. That is the approach I am most seriously considering. The devil is in the details but I’m thinking it’s the right direction to go.

Bill Kinney
sm160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA


Re: Sea Chest

Matt Salatino
 

How about a vent hose that ends high in the engine room, close to deck level, centered in the boat? This would allow the water level to stay at outside sea level.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Nov 27, 2020, at 10:21 PM, Karen Smith via groups.io <karenharmonie@...> wrote:

Mark,

That certainly addresses the problem of air in the seachest. Unfortunately, those of us with older SM models don't have that option since the washdown pump does not draw its water from the seachest.

Adding an "extra" pump just to suck out the air is one option, but seems to me a very inelegant one.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA


Sea Chest Clog Alarm

Karen Smith
 

Those of you who have a newer SM with the switch that triggers the alarm for a clogged seachest:  

Does anybody know the pressure setpoint of this switch?


Re: Sea Chest

Karen Smith
 

Mark,

That certainly addresses the problem of air in the seachest. Unfortunately, those of us with older SM models don't have that option since the washdown pump does not draw its water from the seachest.

Adding an "extra" pump just to suck out the air is one option, but seems to me a very inelegant one.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA


Re: Sea Chest

Thomas Peacock
 

Thanks as always for the tips, Bill.

On the short life of the generator impeller, I have much experience, and a tiny bit of advice.

After we bought our boat about ten years ago, the generator would go through impellers every 15 or 20 hours, obviously a major pain.

When in Martinique, I had Didiere, the local, very experienced diesel mechanic, work on a separate issue. He always looked into the impeller problem, and put a new one in, using some sort of glue-type substance on the Woodruff key that keeps the impeller working correctly. The new impeller lasted only about three hours. (That said, I still think Didiere is a great mechanic).

For the next one, I did three things:

1. I also put a mild glue on the Woodruff key

2. I sanded the inner part of the impeller housing (perhaps the metal is more prone to accumulating residue from the rubber, which then leads to excessive friction)

3. I lubricated the inner housing with Molykote. 

Since, then, I have had no impeller problems, 

Might be coincidence, but it works for me.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay, awaiting vaccine


On Nov 27, 2020, at 4:34 PM, Karen Smith via groups.io <karenharmonie@...> wrote:

Chris,

I have taken the photos and annotated them with the parts list.  

All of the fittings I used are standard NPT pipe fittings.  In the case of the outlet fitting on the strainer, that is actually a female 1-1/2” BSP thread.  In this size, the NPT and BSP threads are compatible enough that they will screw together just fine, but they will not make a reliable high pressure seal.  Don’t expect “teflon tape” to help here.  You’ll need paste type pipe sealant.  For the very low pressures seen here, it works fine despite the small mismatch in thread shapes..

We have been running this long enough now, we can confidently say that it works with no issues. Well, no issues that were not already there with the stock Amel manifold.

Here is the only problem we have with the “sea chest” design.  As we sail, air is entrained under the hull.  Some of this air finds the sea chest thruhull and rises into it, displacing the water.  If we are sailing fast, enough air comes through that in a very few hours the strainer and standpipe are empty of water. I am pretty confident that needing to purge this entrained air is the primary reason that the generators on Amel’s have such short lived raw water impellers.  I have a couple of ideas on how to improve this situation, but nothing ready to implement yet.

Our new generator has a hair trigger on its exhaust temperature shutdown which has made this problem more obvious.  Occasionally, and only when we are sailing, the high exhaust temp triggers a shut down right after it starts.  A second start try and it runs fine. If I crack the lid of the strainer and purge the air, it never happens. 

Short of closing the sea cock, I can’t think of a way to keep the air out, so I am trying to figure out a way to easily purge it.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA


<9495D3AA-FC12-427B-AD1A-C082BAE84D49.jpeg><288A2531-8543-43CF-91FA-F8D6F4D69446.jpeg>


--
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay


Re: Sea Chest

Mark Pitt
 

I always run the anchor washdown pump for 20 seconds, turn it off, and then immediately turn on the generator or Yanmar.  Haven’t lost an impeller since I started doing this a few years ago.

Mark Pitt
Sabbatical III, SM419


On Nov 27, 2020, at 3:34 PM, Karen Smith via groups.io <karenharmonie@...> wrote:

Chris,

I have taken the photos and annotated them with the parts list.  

All of the fittings I used are standard NPT pipe fittings.  In the case of the outlet fitting on the strainer, that is actually a female 1-1/2” BSP thread.  In this size, the NPT and BSP threads are compatible enough that they will screw together just fine, but they will not make a reliable high pressure seal.  Don’t expect “teflon tape” to help here.  You’ll need paste type pipe sealant.  For the very low pressures seen here, it works fine despite the small mismatch in thread shapes..

We have been running this long enough now, we can confidently say that it works with no issues. Well, no issues that were not already there with the stock Amel manifold.

Here is the only problem we have with the “sea chest” design.  As we sail, air is entrained under the hull.  Some of this air finds the sea chest thruhull and rises into it, displacing the water.  If we are sailing fast, enough air comes through that in a very few hours the strainer and standpipe are empty of water. I am pretty confident that needing to purge this entrained air is the primary reason that the generators on Amel’s have such short lived raw water impellers.  I have a couple of ideas on how to improve this situation, but nothing ready to implement yet.

Our new generator has a hair trigger on its exhaust temperature shutdown which has made this problem more obvious.  Occasionally, and only when we are sailing, the high exhaust temp triggers a shut down right after it starts.  A second start try and it runs fine. If I crack the lid of the strainer and purge the air, it never happens. 

Short of closing the sea cock, I can’t think of a way to keep the air out, so I am trying to figure out a way to easily purge it.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA


<9495D3AA-FC12-427B-AD1A-C082BAE84D49.jpeg>
<288A2531-8543-43CF-91FA-F8D6F4D69446.jpeg>


Re: Sea Chest

Karen Smith
 

Chris,

I have taken the photos and annotated them with the parts list.  

All of the fittings I used are standard NPT pipe fittings.  In the case of the outlet fitting on the strainer, that is actually a female 1-1/2” BSP thread.  In this size, the NPT and BSP threads are compatible enough that they will screw together just fine, but they will not make a reliable high pressure seal.  Don’t expect “teflon tape” to help here.  You’ll need paste type pipe sealant.  For the very low pressures seen here, it works fine despite the small mismatch in thread shapes..

We have been running this long enough now, we can confidently say that it works with no issues. Well, no issues that were not already there with the stock Amel manifold.

Here is the only problem we have with the “sea chest” design.  As we sail, air is entrained under the hull.  Some of this air finds the sea chest thruhull and rises into it, displacing the water.  If we are sailing fast, enough air comes through that in a very few hours the strainer and standpipe are empty of water. I am pretty confident that needing to purge this entrained air is the primary reason that the generators on Amel’s have such short lived raw water impellers.  I have a couple of ideas on how to improve this situation, but nothing ready to implement yet.

Our new generator has a hair trigger on its exhaust temperature shutdown which has made this problem more obvious.  Occasionally, and only when we are sailing, the high exhaust temp triggers a shut down right after it starts.  A second start try and it runs fine. If I crack the lid of the strainer and purge the air, it never happens. 

Short of closing the sea cock, I can’t think of a way to keep the air out, so I am trying to figure out a way to easily purge it.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA



Re: In mast furler - Brake - Amel 54 + top cap

Courtney Gorman
 

I have had the same issue those motors are regularly back ordered mine took 2 months during this same time period two years ago 
Cheers 
Courtney
Trippin 
54 #101


On Nov 27, 2020, at 3:53 PM, Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:



We went through the same exercise 3 years ago. Only managed to remove the bottom cap, using a similar method. Couldn’t do the top cap no matter how hard we tried. 

Some permanent magnets had come loose and had to be reglued. The break was functional but upon testing after everything was put back together, still misbehaved and felt like it was still applying some level of break while the motor ran. The break itself is an electromagnetic clutch and can be somewhat adjusted for friction, but we never found the amount suitable for the motor to be 100% happy.
We eventually got a replacement unit from Amel when we reached martinique.


Hope that helps,

Thomas
GARULFO 
A54-122
Moorea






On Fri, 27 Nov 2020 at 01:46, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:
Dear Porter,

the top cap was a real problem and appr. 2 hours work.
Finally, I hung the lower end of the pipe under the boom so that the top cap is at the bottom.  Then carefully place a screwdriver between the cap and tube and - as carefully as possible with a rubber mallet - hit it down step by step.  The top cap is glued in with silicon or something similar.  So this is not a good, but possibly the only, treatment method and the edges no longer look good.  But the biggest mess was the motor.  There was no water in it, but it was full of gear grease, 2 permanent magnets had come loose and stuck to the rotor, others were loose to the stator, many edges broken. So, if your in mast furler keeps stopping again and again, this can be a good reason.
But the brushes were - contrary to my assumption - ok :-).

Hope it helps.

Best regards
Stefan
A54 #119 Lady Charlyette Luperon, Dominican Republic

<IMG_1378-1.jpeg>
<IMG_1377.jpeg>
<6987C24C-6B52-4E55-B325-6C19A2A31C42.jpeg>


Re: In mast furler - Brake - Amel 54 + top cap

Sv Garulfo
 


We went through the same exercise 3 years ago. Only managed to remove the bottom cap, using a similar method. Couldn’t do the top cap no matter how hard we tried. 

Some permanent magnets had come loose and had to be reglued. The break was functional but upon testing after everything was put back together, still misbehaved and felt like it was still applying some level of break while the motor ran. The break itself is an electromagnetic clutch and can be somewhat adjusted for friction, but we never found the amount suitable for the motor to be 100% happy.
We eventually got a replacement unit from Amel when we reached martinique.


Hope that helps,

Thomas
GARULFO 
A54-122
Moorea






On Fri, 27 Nov 2020 at 01:46, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:
Dear Porter,

the top cap was a real problem and appr. 2 hours work.
Finally, I hung the lower end of the pipe under the boom so that the top cap is at the bottom.  Then carefully place a screwdriver between the cap and tube and - as carefully as possible with a rubber mallet - hit it down step by step.  The top cap is glued in with silicon or something similar.  So this is not a good, but possibly the only, treatment method and the edges no longer look good.  But the biggest mess was the motor.  There was no water in it, but it was full of gear grease, 2 permanent magnets had come loose and stuck to the rotor, others were loose to the stator, many edges broken. So, if your in mast furler keeps stopping again and again, this can be a good reason.
But the brushes were - contrary to my assumption - ok :-).

Hope it helps.

Best regards
Stefan
A54 #119 Lady Charlyette Luperon, Dominican Republic


Re: A54 bow thruster seal replacement?

 

I have done this job several times, but each time the 54 never had the seals replaced since new. 

The issue I ran into was getting the lower unit separated from the motor. I had to seek out a sizeable puller. 

I believe that if you are going to do this that in addition to the parts you have from Amel, you will also want to buy a new flexible coupling. It is likely that you have the original two-piece Flexible Coupling. It has been replaced by the Side-Power One-Piece Flexible Coupling for SE120 Through SE170 Thrusters (3"X2 3/8"X3"). There was no issue with fit.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Nov 27, 2020 at 11:47 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hi Scott;

 

We did replace the seals in 2018 at the Manoel Yard in Malta. We did not have any issues either, but had the seals and the yard replaced them for us. Typically I personally watch any work being done on Kokomo and never have anyone do any work without my own presence. This was one of the jobs that I had to check in on, once in a while, as we had multiple items being worked on at the same time. So, I do not have a good recollection of the steps required.

 

Is there a specific question? I may have the answer or be able to reach out to the yard and get you what you need.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Scott SV Tengah via groups.io
Sent: Friday, November 27, 2020 9:28 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 bow thruster seal replacement?

 

Has anyone replaced their bow thruster seals on the 54?

We are on the hard and have the parts on hand but the boat yard declined the project so I may have to give it a go myself. 

Anyone try this? We aren't leaking there but since amel suggested to do it every few years, I was considering tackling it now that we're in the air. 


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: A54 bow thruster seal replacement?

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Scott;

 

We did replace the seals in 2018 at the Manoel Yard in Malta. We did not have any issues either, but had the seals and the yard replaced them for us. Typically I personally watch any work being done on Kokomo and never have anyone do any work without my own presence. This was one of the jobs that I had to check in on, once in a while, as we had multiple items being worked on at the same time. So, I do not have a good recollection of the steps required.

 

Is there a specific question? I may have the answer or be able to reach out to the yard and get you what you need.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Scott SV Tengah via groups.io
Sent: Friday, November 27, 2020 9:28 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 bow thruster seal replacement?

 

Has anyone replaced their bow thruster seals on the 54?

We are on the hard and have the parts on hand but the boat yard declined the project so I may have to give it a go myself. 

Anyone try this? We aren't leaking there but since amel suggested to do it every few years, I was considering tackling it now that we're in the air. 


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


A54 bow thruster seal replacement?

Scott SV Tengah
 

Has anyone replaced their bow thruster seals on the 54?

We are on the hard and have the parts on hand but the boat yard declined the project so I may have to give it a go myself. 

Anyone try this? We aren't leaking there but since amel suggested to do it every few years, I was considering tackling it now that we're in the air. 


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: In mast furler - Brake - Amel 54 + top cap

Stefan Schaufert
 

Dear Porter,

the top cap was a real problem and appr. 2 hours work.
Finally, I hung the lower end of the pipe under the boom so that the top cap is at the bottom.  Then carefully place a screwdriver between the cap and tube and - as carefully as possible with a rubber mallet - hit it down step by step.  The top cap is glued in with silicon or something similar.  So this is not a good, but possibly the only, treatment method and the edges no longer look good.  But the biggest mess was the motor.  There was no water in it, but it was full of gear grease, 2 permanent magnets had come loose and stuck to the rotor, others were loose to the stator, many edges broken. So, if your in mast furler keeps stopping again and again, this can be a good reason.
But the brushes were - contrary to my assumption - ok :-).

Hope it helps.

Best regards
Stefan
A54 #119 Lady Charlyette Luperon, Dominican Republic

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