Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Side Windows loose screws

James Alton
 

Oliver,

   It was very kind of you to  take the time to answer my question about whether balsa core was used in the vertical sides of the roof where the side windows are installed.  

Thank you very much!

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220
Arbatax,  Italy

On Jan 10, 2018, at 9:58 AM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hello James, Herbert and JP,

the vertical sides of the roof, where the side windows and their S/S frames are installed are NOT balsa cored. This is just plain GRP.
On SMs and SAs, the S/S frame-GRP-plexiglas window-wooden frame are attached to gether with screws and bolts (one screw- one bolt).
Once the screws/bolts heads move, the silicone seal is broken and there may be water ingress. It's time to remove all screws-bolts and put new silicone filler. But the window will stay in place.
The nuts for the bolts are accessible under the wooden trim ( above and below window ) that is nailed into the wooden frame.

If the window itself is leaking (broken), then it's a much bigger job...

Olivier


On Wednesday, January 10, 2018 12:48 PM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Hello,

   Can anyone tell me if the cabin sides on the latter  (my hull # is 220) Maramus are balsa cored in the area of the windows?

Thanks,

James 

SV Sueño

Maramu #220

Arbatax,  Italy

On Jan 8, 2018, at 7:26 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

JPG,

   You mentioned removing the balsa.  So the cabin sides of the SM are cored with balsa as opposed to being just one solid laminate?  It would be nice to know the construction since window replacement is on my short list as well. Actually if there is core in there I am going to move it to the top of the list!   I used to use cut down  allen wrenches shaped and sharpened to form cutting edges (in place of the bent nail) to cut out a core but found a better solution.  You can get small saw blades for your dremel and these make core removal fast and you can also use the blades to abrade the inside edges of the glass to give your epoxy a good bond.  It’s a bit of a pain but you can extract essentially all of the water that entered the holes by using vacuum. You can use the same basic supplies and set up that is normally used for vacuum bagging,  just add a good water separator to protect your pump.  It is always better to get the water out before sealing things up if at all possible..  Kept completely dry, balsa lasts pretty much forever, good stuff.

   I hope that you are having a great time in the Bahamas!

Best,

James

SV Sueño,  Maramu #220

On Jan 8, 2018, at 4:48 PM, Jean-Pierre's MacBook Air jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hello Herbert,

I encountered the same problem on my SM when I recaulked the side windows.  

First option: The screws are not long enough to traverse into the wood trim on the inside of the cabin.  Procure various length M6 screws and drill through to the inside.  Pack with lots of Sikaflex and finish the work with a nice looking ball nut on the wood trim.  

Other option: this is what I did.  Make the hole bigger, but no larger in diameter than the width of the SS strip (about 14 MM if memory serves me right), clean out the wet balsa with a nail bent to 90 degrees on the end of your drill, fill with epoxy then drill a pilot hole where needed and reuse the original hardware.

Good luck,



Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM007
Shelter Bay Marina


On 8 Jan 2018, at 16:03, herbert@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Many of the screws that hold the stainless frame of the side windows are loose on our Santorin and some are not holding good enough to allow tightening. It looks as they ar e just screwed through to wooden panel that is used as a packing plate at the inside. Did anyone replace these screws already? What is the best solution to fix that? 

thx, Herbert
SN120 KALI MERA, Shelter Bay, Panama











Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] electrolysis on jib furling gearbox?

Ryan Meador
 

It's been a while since I've studied this, but I don't think this is electrolysis in the typical sense (even though in most cases people misuse that word to mean "galvanic corrosion").  Galvanic isolators and zincs only afford protection to submerged metal where the ocean completes the circuit.  Dissimilar metals in direct contact with each other will galvanically corrode on their own, no ocean required.  The solution is to make sure they don't touch using some type of isolating grease.  I think Tef-Gel is the brand usually recommended for this type of thing.

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, Jan 10, 2018 at 12:54 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Peter,

I have one end of this grouper permanently attached to the bonding at the fuel fill bonding clamp.

As soon as I pull into a marina I always drop it over the side. I had to rig a line to the groupers cable so there was not stain on the wire. You would be surprised how quickly the grouper gets dissolve in some marinas.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2018 11:40 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] electrolysis on jib furling gearbox?

 

 

Peter,

 

While you are waiting to install a galvanic isolator, consider buying an additional easy to install (i.e. no haul out required) sacrificial anode like this one or similar:  https://www.amazon.com/Martyr-CMGROUPERZ-Alloy-Grouper-Hanging/dp/B001TK98LM

 

It can be connected to the green/yellow bonding wire at a terminal in the Aft locker and then just hung off the back of the boat.  It will give you some additional protection of your underwater metal until you get the issue sorted.   

 

Mark McGovern

SM #440 Cara

Deale, MD USA 

 



Re: Generator charging question

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Ryan,

We've run both Mastervolt chargers at the same time for years (100A & 30A).  

No, if the chargers are properly set to charge at the voltages recommended by the battery manufacturer, it is impossible to overcharge the batteries, because each charger senses what the other one is doing.  


Cheerio,


Mystery Part

Chuck_Kim_Joy
 

Hi All,

I had some work done on the bow thruster. When the person finished up and left this was left on the forward berth. I queried a few people but they had no idea. So I put the question to the masses. Thanks for your time.


Regards,

Chuck

s/v Joy

SM2K #388


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Gasket for Hatches

eric freedman
 

Hi Kent,

Did you try contacting Budget Marine in St Maarten?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2018 12:21 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Gasket for Hatches

 

 

Hi all,
RigRite says it will be a month or more before they have Goiot Tradition hatch gaskets available.

Does anyone have another source? Joel, is there anyone in S Florida who would have them?

Has anyone used another gasket material?

Does anyone have the dimensions and hardness of the Goiot gaskets?

HatchMasters says they've sold a round profile gasket for these hatches, but won't give a size recommendation.

Thanks for any help.

Kent
SM243 Kristy
Currently Ft Lauderdale


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] electrolysis on jib furling gearbox?

eric freedman
 

Peter,

I have one end of this grouper permanently attached to the bonding at the fuel fill bonding clamp.

As soon as I pull into a marina I always drop it over the side. I had to rig a line to the groupers cable so there was not stain on the wire. You would be surprised how quickly the grouper gets dissolve in some marinas.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2018 11:40 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] electrolysis on jib furling gearbox?

 

 

Peter,

 

While you are waiting to install a galvanic isolator, consider buying an additional easy to install (i.e. no haul out required) sacrificial anode like this one or similar:  https://www.amazon.com/Martyr-CMGROUPERZ-Alloy-Grouper-Hanging/dp/B001TK98LM

 

It can be connected to the green/yellow bonding wire at a terminal in the Aft locker and then just hung off the back of the boat.  It will give you some additional protection of your underwater metal until you get the issue sorted.   

 

Mark McGovern

SM #440 Cara

Deale, MD USA 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Generator charging question

Ryan Meador
 

At first glance, I thought it could be dangerous to use multiple smart chargers because they could get into different states, but after thinking through all the possible combinations, I've convinced myself it is actually safe -- provided the total current is less than what the batteries can accept.  It might not produce the optimal results for your battery lifespan, though: they could transition from bulk to acceptance or acceptance to float before the battery is actually ready, because each charger can only sense its own contribution to the charge current.  Chargers in different stages shouldn't fight each other directly because they sense the current/voltage of the system.  Floating at different voltages should be safe; the charger with the lower float voltage would just not be doing anything.  If one or more chargers has a float voltage above that which the batteries are designed to handle, that would be bad... but that's also bad with just one charger.

I do not think it is safe to mix smart chargers and dumb chargers without knowing exactly how the dumb charger works.  It is conceivable that the dumb charger just puts out a constant voltage, and would act as a sink for a higher voltage -- then you'd get the two chargers directly fighting each other, possibly tripping breakers, and definitely wasting power.  The same could happen with two dumb chargers that have different voltage setpoints; presumably the ones Amel installed as stock were configured with the same voltage and/or were smart enough to shut off if they started acting as a sink.

As an aside, is a 16A shore power connection typical in some parts of the world?  At 230V, that's about the same wattage as the "small boat" 30A@120V connections in the USA.  A larger yacht like a Super Maramu is expected to connect to 50A@240V in the US, but usually also has the option of connecting to two 30A@120V connections.  I assume you can't connect to two 16A@230V connections because the 230V parts of the world don't use a split-phase power system like we do in the US, but perhaps I'm wrong about that.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, Jan 10, 2018 at 2:11 AM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Our solar chargers by Genasun are not properly adjustable to the voltages required by Trojan for our AGM batteries.  So we disconnect solar when on shorepower to prevent over-voltage charging of full batteries.


We routinely turn on both battery chargers as follows:

(1) When charging from the generator.
(2) When we will have shore power for only one day or two.

Evidently after one hour or less the batteries charge at less than 100 A, and at this point it makes no difference whether you have one or both chargers on.  So we routinely turn one off.

Cheers,

Peregrinus
SM2K N. 350 (2002)
Herzliya



Re: Gasket for Hatches

karkauai
 

Hi all,
RigRite says it will be a month or more before they have Goiot Tradition hatch gaskets available.

Does anyone have another source? Joel, is there anyone in S Florida who would have them?

Has anyone used another gasket material?

Does anyone have the dimensions and hardness of the Goiot gaskets?

HatchMasters says they've sold a round profile gasket for these hatches, but won't give a size recommendation.

Thanks for any help.

Kent
SM243 Kristy
Currently Ft Lauderdale


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] electrolysis on jib furling gearbox? [1 Attachment]

mfmcgovern@...
 

Peter,

While you are waiting to install a galvanic isolator, consider buying an additional easy to install (i.e. no haul out required) sacrificial anode like this one or similar:  https://www.amazon.com/Martyr-CMGROUPERZ-Alloy-Grouper-Hanging/dp/B001TK98LM

It can be connected to the green/yellow bonding wire at a terminal in the Aft locker and then just hung off the back of the boat.  It will give you some additional protection of your underwater metal until you get the issue sorted.   

Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA 
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Coppercoat?

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Bernard, Mark,


 We have had Coppercoat on since 2010. As reported before on this site we had mixed views the first season--the boat had been stationary in a muddy river in the UK for 6 months after application and in particular we hadn't given is a gentle sanding down before launch.

 Since then we have been very happy, though it's fair to say that the boat is now ashore most winters. We've been in the Med all this time, except for a few months on the west coast of Scotland.


A little slime builds up after a couple of months but comes off very easily.


 Application is actually pretty easy, though as with all such jobs it's important to prepare properly. In our case that meant sand blasting 10 years of antifouling. The guy who did it used a machine so precise that the gel coat looked as though it had just left the mould.


 At that point get a surveyor to run his moisture meter over the hull and give you a written report that it is in good order. After that, in our case, they had to slightly roughen up the gelcoat surface as we chose to put two coats of ordinary epoxy on before the Coppercoat. The iron keel needs to treated carefully with appropriate epoxy on a completely dry day.


 Once that preparation had been done, painting on the Coppercoat was very simple using a roller. It's a water based paint. It's really important to mix one litre at a time as the copper powder is heavy. You need one person mixing while another rolls. You can pretty well roll one coat straight away on another. There is not a lot of drying time needed--check on the instructions.


 We had sanded and painted antifouling for 33 years before we found Coppercoat and it achieves for us everything we hoped for.


 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Preveza, Greece


From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: 09 January 2018 20:19:43
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Coppercoat?
 


Part of the argument for Copper Coat is their claim you save money not having to haul the boat as often. However, you will still need to haul an Amel to do drive maintenance. Therefore, not much of a savings when you think about it.

 

Also, the procedure to apply Copper Coat is not something an everyday boat yard does often or knows how to do. It is not as easy to apply as paint.

 

My 2 cents

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Martinique

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2018 11:11 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Coppercoat?

 

 

Hello there
I’d be interested if n group members thoughts and ideas experience with coppercoat
Assuming the hull is dry and well prepared etc
All the best for the new year
Miles
Maramu




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Side Windows loose screws

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello James, Herbert and JP,

the vertical sides of the roof, where the side windows and their S/S frames are installed are NOT balsa cored. This is just plain GRP.
On SMs and SAs, the S/S frame-GRP-plexiglas window-wooden frame are attached to gether with screws and bolts (one screw- one bolt).
Once the screws/bolts heads move, the silicone seal is broken and there may be water ingress. It's time to remove all screws-bolts and put new silicone filler. But the window will stay in place.
The nuts for the bolts are accessible under the wooden trim ( above and below window ) that is nailed into the wooden frame.

If the window itself is leaking (broken), then it's a much bigger job...

Olivier


On Wednesday, January 10, 2018 12:48 PM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Hello,

   Can anyone tell me if the cabin sides on the latter  (my hull # is 220) Maramus are balsa cored in the area of the windows?

Thanks,

James 

SV Sueño

Maramu #220

Arbatax,  Italy

On Jan 8, 2018, at 7:26 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

JPG,

   You mentioned removing the balsa.  So the cabin sides of the SM are cored with balsa as opposed to being just one solid laminate?  It would be nice to know the construction since window replacement is on my short list as well. Actually if there is core in there I am going to move it to the top of the list!   I used to use cut down  allen wrenches shaped and sharpened to form cutting edges (in place of the bent nail) to cut out a core but found a better solution.  You can get small saw blades for your dremel and these make core removal fast and you can also use the blades to abrade the inside edges of the glass to give your epoxy a good bond.  It’s a bit of a pain but you can extract essentially all of the water that entered the holes by using vacuum. You can use the same basic supplies and set up that is normally used for vacuum bagging,  just add a good water separator to protect your pump.  It is always better to get the water out before sealing things up if at all possible..  Kept completely dry, balsa lasts pretty much forever, good stuff.

   I hope that you are having a great time in the Bahamas!

Best,

James

SV Sueño,  Maramu #220

On Jan 8, 2018, at 4:48 PM, Jean-Pierre's MacBook Air jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hello Herbert,

I encountered the same problem on my SM when I recaulked the side windows.  

First option: The screws are not long enough to traverse into the wood trim on the inside of the cabin.  Procure various length M6 screws and drill through to the inside.  Pack with lots of Sikaflex and finish the work with a nice looking ball nut on the wood trim.  

Other option: this is what I did.  Make the hole bigger, but no larger in diameter than the width of the SS strip (about 14 MM if memory serves me right), clean out the wet balsa with a nail bent to 90 degrees on the end of your drill, fill with epoxy then drill a pilot hole where needed and reuse the original hardware.

Good luck,



Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM007
Shelter Bay Marina


On 8 Jan 2018, at 16:03, herbert@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Many of the screws that hold the stainless frame of the side windows are loose on our Santorin and some are not holding good enough to allow tightening. It looks as they ar e just screwed through to wooden panel that is used as a packing plate at the inside. Did anyone replace these screws already? What is the best solution to fix that? 

thx, Herbert
SN120 KALI MERA, Shelter Bay, Panama









Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] electrolysis on jib furling gearbox?

amelforme
 

Any time, Peter.

 

All The Best, Joel

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2018 8:54 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] electrolysis on jib furling gearbox?

 

 

thanks Joel,

Yes your absolutely correct about the fishing boats.  The marina also has many derelict boats and live-aboards on vessels well past their prime.  I will pursue the galvanic isolator.  I wan't sure about the grease coming out of the bottom of the gearbox, but I'm one to investigate until my confidence builds.  it turns out there were "dry" pockets within the gearbox, and the upper bearings had significant rust and no longer turned smoothly.

 

Thanks for the history and advice

 

Peter de Groot

La Querida

SM #207


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] electrolysis on jib furling gearbox?

Peter de Groot
 

Thank you 
Mohammad and Aty,

Your recommendation is appreciated.

Yes I realized to late that I didn't include my name!

Peter de Groot
La Querida
SM #207


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] electrolysis on jib furling gearbox?

Peter de Groot
 

thanks Joel,
Yes your absolutely correct about the fishing boats.  The marina also has many derelict boats and live-aboards on vessels well past their prime.  I will pursue the galvanic isolator.  I wan't sure about the grease coming out of the bottom of the gearbox, but I'm one to investigate until my confidence builds.  it turns out there were "dry" pockets within the gearbox, and the upper bearings had significant rust and no longer turned smoothly.

Thanks for the history and advice

Peter de Groot
La Querida
SM #207


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] electrolysis on jib furling gearbox?

amelforme
 

As I recall, Moss landing has a great number of commercial fishing boats. A friend of mine who surveys a lot of commercial fishing boats once told me that the two most neglected things on these workhorse vessels are the grounding systems and the ground tackle. As fishing boats are either working or on the dock, the later factor is understandable. The first one, not so much. I would recommend you get a reputable marine electrician to install a galvanic isolater. The DC system on all Amel boats is a fully floating/full earth return system just like almost every metal boat afloat. The AC system has its own peculiarities and if your electrician condemns it, have him call Bill Rouse 832-380-4970 who will tell him why it is the way it is, and why it must stay that way. As a caution, I know of several boats where the propeller and/or the stainless gridwork inside of the rudder were destroyed over the period of a few days by improper modifications to the electrical systems.

                                                                                                                                                                                

The grease you saw beneath your jib furler is entirely normal. You will note that the headstay passes through the furler assembly. When first rigged at Amel or later by a knowledgeable rigger, the aluminum headfoil on the headstay is packed with grease to lubricate the headfoil from the harder stainless steel headstay. When you no longer see grease beneath the jib furler is more of a cause for alarm.

 

As a bit of history, I sold that boat when brand new to a good friend of mine who gave it his wife’s nickname, TOWOWIE. It’s a long story…  Anyway, I was fortunate to have the exclusive use of the boat for a bit more than a year as my Amel demonstration/boat show boat after it crossed the Atlantic. I later sold it to an interesting

couple from Reno who named it LIEBLING, thankfully , after also considering burdening it with the name MUNCHWINKLE. I could not be clever enough to make this up…

 

It was later sold to another couple who I presume sold it to you if you are the forth owner. It is a great boat that seemed to burn out anchor light bulbs faster than any other Amel Super Maramu’s I have known.

 

Good luck and enjoy your LA QUERIDA .

 

All The Best, Joel

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2018 2:41 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] electrolysis on jib furling gearbox?

 

 

Hello and welcome to the group;

 

Sorry to not address you by your name but I did not see your name in the e-mail.

 

I cannot comment on the source of your particular issue. However if you are connected to shore power in a marina or harbor without a galvanic isolator, you are exposing the boat to a high risk of electrolysis depending on your particular location, wiring and boats surrounding you.

 

I would highly recommend the installation of a galvanic isolator to prevent creating an unintended electrical circuit. Olivier recommended the install on our 54 during the survey. The installation is fairly straight forward and it took us a couple of hours to get done.

 

Respectfully;

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2018 8:11 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] electrolysis on jib furling gearbox? [1 Attachment]

 

Greetings and Happy New Year,

I’m new to the group having purchased “Liebling” SM hull #207 In June 2017.  Now she is “La Querida” berthed in Moss Landing, California.

Over the last several months I noticed something like grease dripping out from the jib furling gearbox and finally dismantled it last weekend.  In general it was in reasonable shape for a 20 year old gearbox.  However the aluminum  disc on the out put shaft showed considerable pitting which I interpret as electrolysis.  On my particular box, the aluminum is in contact with a bronze or brass bushing.  I did some reading on line and was quite alarmed to learn that neighboring boats and poor grounding of the marina shore power apparently can accelerate electrolysis on a well designed and maintained boat such as our Amels.  So two questions:

  1. Has anyone else experienced this electrolysis on the aluminum disc on top of the gearbox?  (or is mine indicative of a bigger problem)
  2. I briefly investigated galvanic isolators as protection for poorly grounded shore power.  Is this worthwhile?

Thanks in advance.

BTW our plans are to cruise to Mexicos west coast after retirement in about 3 years.  Saludos a todas!


Re: Coppercoat?

Ian Park
 

We re-applied Coppercoat. It is easy to put on, but continuous stirring is required to ensure the copper particles don’t sink to the bottom of the tray - you have to roller it on. It’s water based epoxy so easy to clean up. Yes, we get green slime, but you can scrub it off with a plan scrubber or a large scraper - you couldn’t do that with ablative paint.
At haul out it just requires a jet wash a quick sand with 800 grit an launch.
Not everyone’s choice but we love it - no more painting the hull for 10 years.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96 Antigua


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Side Windows loose screws

James Alton
 

Hello,

   Can anyone tell me if the cabin sides on the latter  (my hull # is 220) Maramus are balsa cored in the area of the windows?

Thanks,

James 

SV Sueño

Maramu #220

Arbatax,  Italy

On Jan 8, 2018, at 7:26 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

JPG,


   You mentioned removing the balsa.  So the cabin sides of the SM are cored with balsa as opposed to being just one solid laminate?  It would be nice to know the construction since window replacement is on my short list as well. Actually if there is core in there I am going to move it to the top of the list!   I used to use cut down  allen wrenches shaped and sharpened to form cutting edges (in place of the bent nail) to cut out a core but found a better solution.  You can get small saw blades for your dremel and these make core removal fast and you can also use the blades to abrade the inside edges of the glass to give your epoxy a good bond.  It’s a bit of a pain but you can extract essentially all of the water that entered the holes by using vacuum. You can use the same basic supplies and set up that is normally used for vacuum bagging,  just add a good water separator to protect your pump.  It is always better to get the water out before sealing things up if at all possible.  Kept completely dry, balsa lasts pretty much forever, good stuff.

   I hope that you are having a great time in the Bahamas!

Best,

James

SV Sueño,  Maramu #220

On Jan 8, 2018, at 4:48 PM, Jean-Pierre's MacBook Air jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hello Herbert,


I encountered the same problem on my SM when I recaulked the side windows.  

First option: The screws are not long enough to traverse into the wood trim on the inside of the cabin.  Procure various length M6 screws and drill through to the inside.  Pack with lots of Sikaflex and finish the work with a nice looking ball nut on the wood trim.  

Other option: this is what I did.  Make the hole bigger, but no larger in diameter than the width of the SS strip (about 14 MM if memory serves me right), clean out the wet balsa with a nail bent to 90 degrees on the end of your drill, fill with epoxy then drill a pilot hole where needed and reuse the original hardware.

Good luck,



Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM007
Shelter Bay Marina


On 8 Jan 2018, at 16:03, herbert@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Many of the screws that hold the stainless frame of the side windows are loose on our Santorin and some are not holding good enough to allow tightening. It looks as they ar e just screwed through to wooden panel that is used as a packing plate at the inside. Did anyone replace these screws already? What is the best solution to fix that? 


thx, Herbert

SN120 KALI MERA, Shelter Bay, Panama








Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] electrolysis on jib furling gearbox? [1 Attachment]

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hello and welcome to the group;
 
Sorry to not address you by your name but I did not see your name in the e-mail.
 
I cannot comment on the source of your particular issue. However if you are connected to shore power in a marina or harbor without a galvanic isolator, you are exposing the boat to a high risk of electrolysis depending on your particular location, wiring and boats surrounding you.
 
I would highly recommend the installation of a galvanic isolator to prevent creating an unintended electrical circuit. Olivier recommended the install on our 54 during the survey. The installation is fairly straight forward and it took us a couple of hours to get done.
 
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2018 8:11 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] electrolysis on jib furling gearbox? [1 Attachment]

 

Greetings and Happy New Year,

I’m new to the group having purchased “Liebling” SM hull #207 In June 2017.  Now she is “La Querida” berthed in Moss Landing, California.

Over the last several months I noticed something like grease dripping out from the jib furling gearbox and finally dismantled it last weekend.  In general it was in reasonable shape for a 20 year old gearbox.  However the aluminum  disc on the out put shaft showed considerable pitting which I interpret as electrolysis.  On my particular box, the aluminum is in contact with a bronze or brass bushing.  I did some reading on line and was quite alarmed to learn that neighboring boats and poor grounding of the marina shore power apparently can accelerate electrolysis on a well designed and maintained boat such as our Amels.  So two questions:

  1. Has anyone else experienced this electrolysis on the aluminum disc on top of the gearbox?  (or is mine indicative of a bigger problem)
  2. I briefly investigated galvanic isolators as protection for poorly grounded shore power.  Is this worthwhile?

Thanks in advance.

BTW our plans are to cruise to Mexicos west coast after retirement in about 3 years.  Saludos a todas!


Re: Generator charging question

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Our solar chargers by Genasun are not properly adjustable to the voltages required by Trojan for our AGM batteries.  So we disconnect solar when on shorepower to prevent over-voltage charging of full batteries.

We routinely turn on both battery chargers as follows:

(1) When charging from the generator.
(2) When we will have shore power for only one day or two.

Evidently after one hour or less the batteries charge at less than 100 A, and at this point it makes no difference whether you have one or both chargers on.  So we routinely turn one off.

Cheers,

Peregrinus
SM2K N. 350 (2002)
Herzliya


electrolysis on jib furling gearbox?

Peter de Groot
 

Greetings and Happy New Year,

I’m new to the group having purchased “Liebling” SM hull #207 In June 2017.  Now she is “La Querida” berthed in Moss Landing, California.

Over the last several months I noticed something like grease dripping out from the jib furling gearbox and finally dismantled it last weekend.  In general it was in reasonable shape for a 20 year old gearbox.  However the aluminum  disc on the out put shaft showed considerable pitting which I interpret as electrolysis.  On my particular box, the aluminum is in contact with a bronze or brass bushing.  I did some reading on line and was quite alarmed to learn that neighboring boats and poor grounding of the marina shore power apparently can accelerate electrolysis on a well designed and maintained boat such as our Amels.  So two questions:

  1. Has anyone else experienced this electrolysis on the aluminum disc on top of the gearbox?  (or is mine indicative of a bigger problem)
  2. I briefly investigated galvanic isolators as protection for poorly grounded shore power.  Is this worthwhile?

Thanks in advance.

BTW our plans are to cruise to Mexicos west coast after retirement in about 3 years.  Saludos a todas!