Date   

Speedi-Sleeve for Bowthruster shaft

Paul Osterberg
 

Hello!
I know some of yo use a speedi sleeve on the bow-thruster shaft. I'm planing the same but I'm a novice so need some help, what dimension did you use? any specific things I need to consider?
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259, Lagos, Portugal


Re: Attention Autohelm ST7000 Gurus!

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Ian, that sounds exactly what mine was doing. As I said in my last the fault was a corroded electrical connection near the motor. I had a similar problem years ago and all the experts were going this way and that and a long term cruising friend said flatly. Its an electrical connection. I was in Raetea French Polynesia and I waited there two weeks for a new mother board recommended by the experts.. In the interim I did follow my friends advice, located the faulty connection and presto. So this time I didn't mess around. I hunted down the faulty connection immediately'

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 30 March 2021 at 12:05 Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...> wrote:

Hi Danny. No I do not expect it to stay exactly on the rhumb lines for obvious reasons. The issue is that at the moment you press Engage Pilot it does a hard turn to port and drives you that way for some time. Then it corrects after 5-10 minutes. Thereafter, it behaves as it should, occasionally moving off the line adjusting for sea state. Yes, I agree the wind angle function is great and we use it often. Sounds like my problem might be electrical in nature. Thx for sharing your experience. 




Sent from my Galaxy


-------- Original message --------
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
Date: 2021-03-29 17:08 (GMT-05:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Attention Autohelm ST7000 Gurus!

Hi Ian,

I am puzzled. Do you expect the auto helm to keep you precisely on the rhumb line at all times or deliver you accurately to the way point. I would have thought the slight deviation which corrected you back to the rhumb line not exceptional. If you are using the auto function on the auto helm you can choose the response level. Set it high and the helm is continually adjusting to every swell induced swing with commensurate increase in battery drain. Set it lower and the adjustments are much less frequent and the boat will be allowed to respond to swells without the auto helm frantically trying to keep up. I wonder if your slight deviation could be a function of what response you have set.

Because I am more focused on wind and waves rather than precise way point course I almost always use the point the boat where I want to go and hit auto method, and off shore, wind steer. The wind steer function is brilliant as you can get your sail trim perfect and the boat maintains the correct angle. On a thousand mile passage a few miles to either side of the course is immaterial and easily corrected

On a different situation. Recently when I hit auto the boat would turn hard to port. Somewhat disconcerting. The problem was a corroded connection on the feed to the motor.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 30 March 2021 at 05:33 Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...> wrote:

When I choose “Navigate” to a waypoint, the pilot steers the boat until it gets a 0.05 nm to 0.10 nm  XTE to port every time. Then it course corrects by heading to starboard until it gets back on the rhumb line. Takes about 5-10 minutes depending on the wind speed. Anyone with the same experience? Would it have to do with compass deviation? I am using a Raymarine E Series chartplotter.  Pilot is a rotary drive type.


Grazie tutti!

Ian
Loca Lola II
SM153


 


 


Re: Onan generator oil pan drain pipe

Sv Garulfo
 

Thanks a lot Arno! 
My version of the parts doc “(981-0280 (issue 4)” lacks that info. 

Cheers! 
Thomas

On 29 Mar 2021, at 11:54, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

It is actually in the Onan document (Parts Manual) on page 87, here is a screenprint of the diagram and associated numbers.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

<Screenshot 2021-03-29 at 17.50.26.png>


Re: Attention Autohelm ST7000 Gurus!

Ian Townsend
 

Hi Danny. No I do not expect it to stay exactly on the rhumb lines for obvious reasons. The issue is that at the moment you press Engage Pilot it does a hard turn to port and drives you that way for some time. Then it corrects after 5-10 minutes. Thereafter, it behaves as it should, occasionally moving off the line adjusting for sea state. Yes, I agree the wind angle function is great and we use it often. Sounds like my problem might be electrical in nature. Thx for sharing your experience. 




Sent from my Galaxy


-------- Original message --------
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
Date: 2021-03-29 17:08 (GMT-05:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Attention Autohelm ST7000 Gurus!

Hi Ian,

I am puzzled. Do you expect the auto helm to keep you precisely on the rhumb line at all times or deliver you accurately to the way point. I would have thought the slight deviation which corrected you back to the rhumb line not exceptional. If you are using the auto function on the auto helm you can choose the response level. Set it high and the helm is continually adjusting to every swell induced swing with commensurate increase in battery drain. Set it lower and the adjustments are much less frequent and the boat will be allowed to respond to swells without the auto helm frantically trying to keep up. I wonder if your slight deviation could be a function of what response you have set.

Because I am more focused on wind and waves rather than precise way point course I almost always use the point the boat where I want to go and hit auto method, and off shore, wind steer. The wind steer function is brilliant as you can get your sail trim perfect and the boat maintains the correct angle. On a thousand mile passage a few miles to either side of the course is immaterial and easily corrected

On a different situation. Recently when I hit auto the boat would turn hard to port. Somewhat disconcerting. The problem was a corroded connection on the feed to the motor.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 30 March 2021 at 05:33 Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...> wrote:

When I choose “Navigate” to a waypoint, the pilot steers the boat until it gets a 0.05 nm to 0.10 nm  XTE to port every time. Then it course corrects by heading to starboard until it gets back on the rhumb line. Takes about 5-10 minutes depending on the wind speed. Anyone with the same experience? Would it have to do with compass deviation? I am using a Raymarine E Series chartplotter.  Pilot is a rotary drive type.


Grazie tutti!

Ian
Loca Lola II
SM153


Re: Onan generator oil pan drain pipe

Arno Luijten
 

It is actually in the Onan document (Parts Manual) on page 87, here is a screenprint of the diagram and associated numbers.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Attention Autohelm ST7000 Gurus!

Brent Cameron
 

All autopilots work by utilizing a deviation from the current course over ground to the set course so it’s not surprising that it always does a (should be slight) turn to port as they need that deviation to be able to figure out the rate of change that they should be using to correct any deviation initially but it sounds to me like something isn’t right as it shouldn’t take that long to establish itself back on course.   Normally in waypoint mode, the AP gets confused if you have a significant cross track error but that is not the case here.  

Does it track well in heading mode?  If you set a heading, let’s say 180˚, will it track well to that heading?  When you tell it to turn say 10˚ to port, does it line up quickly on 170˚ and track that well?  You should see it go promptly to that heading without any overshooting.  If that’s working well then your sensitivity to deviations (RESPONSE) and rudder gain (how fast it actually moves the rudder) adjustments are ok.   With Response, you generally want to keep it as low as the sea state will allow (reduces battery drain) to react to a change in course.  I’ve not seen it need to be set over a 2 except in really heavy seas.  Same thing for Rudder Gain… if the pilot is responding sluggishly to big deviations, then you might have to wind up the gain a notch.  

You can check your AP compass by lining up on a known range and comparing your heading to the MAGNETIC bearing of your range (assuming you are on the line and pointed exactly down the range of course).  I wouldn’t get excited about a difference of a degree or two as your bow probably wasn’t pointed exactly at the range but if it’s out more than 4-5˚, you probably want to  make sure that your AP compass is recalibrated but before that, have a look to make sure nobody put something big and metallic (or electronic) near your gyrocompass as that could cause issues.


Calibrating your compass is easy to do in calm seas - you will be doing a BIG 360 turn so you need a bit of sea room for this.  You will also need to be able to steer in on a known bearing (like on a range) although in a pinch you can use your chart-potter’s GPS heading but that’s really a function of COG rather than boat heading.  Get the boat going about 2 knots in a straight line.  When ready, simply press and hold Standby for a second or so.  It should pop up “Adjust Compass”.   Now start a very slow turn taking 3 minutes to complete at least a full 360 degree rotation (so about 2˚/second).  When completed, your AP should show you how much deviation it corrected. (Anything less than about 15˚ is ok).  Now turn the boat onto your known bearing range making sure that the boat is not only on the bearing line but also that it is pointed directly down the line (I.e. not crabbing for current or the like) and then using the course change buttons adjust the displayed course until it agrees with your known bearing (remember to use the MAGNETIC bearing… not true when reading off the chart).  When you are happy with it, press standby for a second or so and you should be all set.    

The ST-6000/7000 series of AP are great pilots and easy to configure properly.  It sounds like it is working hard to get to a course but you shouldn’t see anything like 5-10 minutes to establish a course from these as they should lock in within 1-2 cycles on either side of set heading within about 30 seconds at absolute worst case.  

Brent

On Mar 29, 2021, 12:34 PM -0400, Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...>, wrote:

When I choose “Navigate” to a waypoint, the pilot steers the boat until it gets a 0.05 nm to 0.10 nm XTE to port every time. Then it course corrects by heading to starboard until it gets back on the rhumb line. Takes about 5-10 minutes depending on the wind speed. Anyone with the same experience? Would it have to do with compass deviation? I am using a Raymarine E Series chartplotter. Pilot is a rotary drive type.


Grazie tutti!

Ian
Loca Lola II
SM153


--
Brent Cameron

Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator

Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada


Re: Attention Autohelm ST7000 Gurus!

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Ian,

I am puzzled. Do you expect the auto helm to keep you precisely on the rhumb line at all times or deliver you accurately to the way point. I would have thought the slight deviation which corrected you back to the rhumb line not exceptional. If you are using the auto function on the auto helm you can choose the response level. Set it high and the helm is continually adjusting to every swell induced swing with commensurate increase in battery drain. Set it lower and the adjustments are much less frequent and the boat will be allowed to respond to swells without the auto helm frantically trying to keep up. I wonder if your slight deviation could be a function of what response you have set.

Because I am more focused on wind and waves rather than precise way point course I almost always use the point the boat where I want to go and hit auto method, and off shore, wind steer. The wind steer function is brilliant as you can get your sail trim perfect and the boat maintains the correct angle. On a thousand mile passage a few miles to either side of the course is immaterial and easily corrected

On a different situation. Recently when I hit auto the boat would turn hard to port. Somewhat disconcerting. The problem was a corroded connection on the feed to the motor.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 30 March 2021 at 05:33 Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...> wrote:

When I choose “Navigate” to a waypoint, the pilot steers the boat until it gets a 0.05 nm to 0.10 nm  XTE to port every time. Then it course corrects by heading to starboard until it gets back on the rhumb line. Takes about 5-10 minutes depending on the wind speed. Anyone with the same experience? Would it have to do with compass deviation? I am using a Raymarine E Series chartplotter.  Pilot is a rotary drive type.


Grazie tutti!

Ian
Loca Lola II
SM153


Re: Steering wheel removal

Slavko Despotovic
 

I ask local shop to make a tool and after 5 minutes steering wheel was off. Easy an fast. It took much more time to have tool made b6 local shop. Cost was 10€. Diameter of inner wheel is 90mm and distance between two holes is 63 mm.
Bellow are some photos. 
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Re: Attention Autohelm ST7000 Gurus!

eric freedman
 

I had that same problem with my autopilot course computer. Lee at Raymarine had me

Do a compass deviation correction while he was on the phone. I did it over and over again , and he kept saying that I was doing something wrong.

We finally agreed to have him check it out. Come to find out there was a loose resistor on the circuit board.

Unfortunately, I do not believe that they will fix an old course

computer currently.

Lee is the Guru of autopilots at Raymarine.

For that reason, I keep a spare on board.

When I need old Raymarine equipment I get it from eBay.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Ian Townsend
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2021 12:34 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Attention Autohelm ST7000 Gurus!

 

When I choose “Navigate” to a waypoint, the pilot steers the boat until it gets a 0.05 nm to 0.10 nm  XTE to port every time. Then it course corrects by heading to starboard until it gets back on the rhumb line. Takes about 5-10 minutes depending on the wind speed. Anyone with the same experience? Would it have to do with compass deviation? I am using a Raymarine E Series chartplotter.  Pilot is a rotary drive type.


Grazie tutti!

Ian
Loca Lola II
SM153


Attention Autohelm ST7000 Gurus!

Ian Townsend
 

When I choose “Navigate” to a waypoint, the pilot steers the boat until it gets a 0.05 nm to 0.10 nm  XTE to port every time. Then it course corrects by heading to starboard until it gets back on the rhumb line. Takes about 5-10 minutes depending on the wind speed. Anyone with the same experience? Would it have to do with compass deviation? I am using a Raymarine E Series chartplotter.  Pilot is a rotary drive type.


Grazie tutti!

Ian
Loca Lola II
SM153


Re: A54 Main Sail furling foil weak point

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Scott,

Thanks for the compliment.
It depends on your particular situation if a reinforcement would make sense. The main point would be if you have a connection in the foil at a low point, say in the first meter of the foil. This is where the torsion forces are the worst. If the connection is purely depending on the rod inside the foil you will have a problem at some point.
I image the worst being a Chinese gibe (that should never happen, but....) with a partially furled sail. The rod inside has not enough intersection space to be stiff enough. A circle shape has a much better resistance against torsion then a flattish bar.
This is why the collar makes such a difference and why the total of 12 fixation points really prevent the twist in the tube. 
I have no drawing at the moment but I will try to come up with something shortly. The collar is actually made from a piece of anodized tube that had the exact right inner diameter. I will look if I can find the exact specs of the tube but I choose it here at FKG on basis of what was available. I was lucky to find this I suppose. FKG used a router to cut the slot. The holes are all done by myself with the connecting rod in place using a small drill-press.
The important bit is that the screws are sideways in the rod from two sides and not just from the back. You want to have al the materials act as a system making it much stronger then the individual parts.
I did have to use some persuasion to get the slight deformation at the top end of the small piece of foil back into shape. The rod twist caused the top end to skew a bit.  Using a big plier and a lot of protection-cloth to prevent markings by the pliers worked for me.

In all cases do check if the reinforcement inside the base of the foil is seated properly to support the bolt going through the foil.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: A54 Main Sail furling foil weak point

Scott SV Tengah
 

Great work, Arno.

Thomas (Garulfo) inspected my foil a few months ago and said it looked fine, but do you suggest A54 owners with the 35mm foil do this as a preventative measure?

Do you have the drawing for your reinforcement piece? 

Thanks!

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Squeaky main hatch

Billy Newport
 

I suspect my squealing or squeaky hatch is actually the counter weight system for the hatch. Has everyone serviced that on a 55 or similar boat yet?

The hatch squeals a lot when raising and lowering it, its driving my wife nuts.

Billy
Amel 55#56


Re: A54 Main Sail furling foil weak point

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Bill,

Thanks for your additional remarks. In my case they kept the wider slot to insert the sail on the original foil and replaced only the part just below. I'm aware that Amel has this repair set but in my opinion it is not strong enough as the rod that goes inside the foil has a very hard job in resisting the torsion simply because of the surface area of the intersection that is way smaller then the size of the intersection of foil tube itself.
My foils are indeed 35mm and at the colllar it now measures a bit over 40 mm. Amazing to see what a new foil would set me back. I hope my solutions will keep me away from that headache.
As said before, the original repair on our foil was done quite poorly and I don't think Amel or its associates made that repair. Amel probably just supplied the parts.

Cheers,

Arno


Re: asymmetrical spinnaker

eric freedman
 

Hi Paolo,
We have been using this setup for 18 years without any problem
I like it a lot as it is in cleaner air and is very strong.
My gennaker is 1 1/2 oz material and we can fly it in 25 knots true.
When I first received Kimberlite we hooked up the gennaker to the anchor roller we wound up
bending part of it in about 20 knots. We had that sail up that time for 7 days straight in the trade winds from Europe.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of PAOLO CUNEO
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2021 8:38 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] asymmetrical spinnaker

Eric,
Your solution of a short removable bowsprit is sound and well proven, no question about that, and I much respect it. Mine is only a matter of a personal preference, and I took a little bit of a chance trying something of which, at least in my area, there was no .previous reference. Fortunately everything went well and I’ll put some photos on my next post Bests Paolo SM 454 Whisper

Inviato da iPad

--
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper


Onan generator oil pan drain pipe

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi all,

The oil pan drain pipe on our Onan MDKBN spec D generator has developed a tiny leak between the oil pan and the elbow fitting. 

Looking at the parts catalog, I can only see a plug for that part (#185-5826) instead of the elbow, and no mention of any gasket.

Being in a remote location, I’m reluctant to take the thing appart to inspect what I may need, especially as the leak is far from severe (maybe a drop every few days). 

Does anyone know what part I should look for?

Thanks


Thomas
GARULFO 
A54-122
Tahaa, French Polynesia. 





Re: A54 Main Sail furling foil weak point

Porter McRoberts
 

Arno. Great solutions thank you. As with many things it’s not if but when, so when our foil goes I’ll be looking back to your photos. But also wanted to report: no foil issues yet: and no battens. Possible correlation supporting Bill R’s theory.   
Thanks again. 

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152 Society Islands
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Mar 28, 2021, at 7:53 AM, Markus Merz <markus.merz@...> wrote:



Just one little addition:

When the boat was new I had quite often problems, furling in the mainsail. But one day I noticed that it is necessary to put the boom absolutely horizontal. If you do so, you can reef and furl in any directions to the wind. I never had problems again.

All the best

Markus

SEDA, Amel 54, No 138

 

 

Von: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von "CW Bill Rouse via groups.io" <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Sonntag, 28. März 2021 um 18:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 Main Sail furling foil weak point

 

It is worth noting and should be of interest to any SM and 54 owners that all SMs and most Amel 54s have the same diameter foil. It is 35mm. This changed with the last 54s.

 

In my experience, very few SMs have had a foil failure, and most SMs that have had a foil failure have purchased sails with battens. The Amel 54 was sold with battens standard in the Mainsail. I have seen many more Amel 54s experience this foil failure than SMs, even though more than twice as many SMs were made by Amel. Additionally, you will find that Amel increased the size of the foil with the last Amel 54s produced. If you have a foil larger than 35mm and battens in the main, you may not experience this failure. I suggest that if you have a 35mm foil, you might consider removing the battens. 

 

TRANSPARENCY: I do not recommend battens for Amels produced before the Amel 55 and with a 35mm foil. I believe the slight benefit associated with adding battens to a cruising boat's furling mainsail is NOT worth the Risks. Assuming that you would replace the failed 35mm foil with a new 1-piece 40mm foil, the replacement will cost you between 10,000 and 15,000 including labor.

 

 The repair kit for the Amel 54 35mm foil was designed by Amel:

<image001.png>

 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 10:08 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Dear Forum,

This week I finished a repair that may interest a few of you. From what I know quite a few A54s have had a repair to the foil inside the main mast.
Our build number 121 has had a repair on the foil at some point. Unknown who made the repair.

As we have bought a new mainsail I decided to do a close inspection of the furling system while there is no mainsail present. I noticed the sail-groove between the lower short piece of foil was not exactly in line with the large part that goes up the mast. Upon closer inspection and disassembly I found a few things.
Inside the foil at the point where the two pieces meet is a piece of half-round aluminum rod that connects the two pieces. It is screwed with 8 M4 screws to the inside-back of the foil.
I noticed the rod was actually twisted at the point where two foil-pieces meet. Clearly a result of too much torsion force exhibited to the rod. As the rod occupies less then 50% of the diameter surface of the foil this was not a big surprise. It also explained the misalignment of the the sail-groove. The picture below shows the twist in the rod if you look carefully.

<image002.jpg>


So I had the local workshop straighten out the rod again using heat and other clever stuff. Next I drilled new holes in the reinforcement rod, this time for M5 screws to get a stronger connection between the foil and the rod. I also had the workshop prepare a collar for me that slides exactly over the foil.


<image003.jpg>


The collar has a slit to allow access to the sail-groove in the foil. It screws sideways into the reinforcement rod using M5 screws. I also added a few M4 screws into the front half of the foil. In hindsight I should have used rivets for those front screws as the foil has very little "meat" in the wall to tap a thread.

This is the result

<image004.jpg>
<image005.jpg>


<image005.jpg>
<image006.jpg>


This will give much more support to the torsion forces exhibited by the motor and I expect the rod no longer to get deformed because of torsion forces.

The original repair was actually done quite sloppy. The screws in the rod were only M4, not drilled perpendicular to the surface and clearly not strong enough as some of them ripped out the threads. Other were seized as no Duralac/Tef-gel was used.
What also went wrong during the original repair is that the reinforcement part that sits inside the base of the foil (a short piece of the same rod as earlier described) where it is connected to the drive system somehow managed to slide upwards into the foil-tube when they were drilling the hole for the bolt that connects the drive to the foil. The result was that the reinforcement part was not doing anything. Because of this the bolt-hole in the foil turned into an oval giving a lot of play in the connection. So I re-drilled/reassembled it to look like this

<image007.jpg>

Now the bolt goes through the reinforcement and I also added a screw to fix the reinforcement part to the back of the foil-tube to prevent it from moving inside the foil. This makes the connection much stronger obviously.

Finally I also modified the outhaul-car to get some better attachment points for the drive system

<image008.jpg>


I hope this is of some help to other Amel owners that may have similar problems.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: A54 Main Sail furling foil weak point

Markus Merz
 

Just one little addition:

When the boat was new I had quite often problems, furling in the mainsail. But one day I noticed that it is necessary to put the boom absolutely horizontal. If you do so, you can reef and furl in any directions to the wind. I never had problems again.

All the best

Markus

SEDA, Amel 54, No 138

 

 

Von: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von "CW Bill Rouse via groups.io" <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Sonntag, 28. März 2021 um 18:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 Main Sail furling foil weak point

 

It is worth noting and should be of interest to any SM and 54 owners that all SMs and most Amel 54s have the same diameter foil. It is 35mm. This changed with the last 54s.

 

In my experience, very few SMs have had a foil failure, and most SMs that have had a foil failure have purchased sails with battens. The Amel 54 was sold with battens standard in the Mainsail. I have seen many more Amel 54s experience this foil failure than SMs, even though more than twice as many SMs were made by Amel. Additionally, you will find that Amel increased the size of the foil with the last Amel 54s produced. If you have a foil larger than 35mm and battens in the main, you may not experience this failure. I suggest that if you have a 35mm foil, you might consider removing the battens. 

 

TRANSPARENCY: I do not recommend battens for Amels produced before the Amel 55 and with a 35mm foil. I believe the slight benefit associated with adding battens to a cruising boat's furling mainsail is NOT worth the Risks. Assuming that you would replace the failed 35mm foil with a new 1-piece 40mm foil, the replacement will cost you between 10,000 and 15,000 including labor.

 

 The repair kit for the Amel 54 35mm foil was designed by Amel:

 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 10:08 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Dear Forum,

This week I finished a repair that may interest a few of you. From what I know quite a few A54s have had a repair to the foil inside the main mast.
Our build number 121 has had a repair on the foil at some point. Unknown who made the repair.

As we have bought a new mainsail I decided to do a close inspection of the furling system while there is no mainsail present. I noticed the sail-groove between the lower short piece of foil was not exactly in line with the large part that goes up the mast. Upon closer inspection and disassembly I found a few things.
Inside the foil at the point where the two pieces meet is a piece of half-round aluminum rod that connects the two pieces. It is screwed with 8 M4 screws to the inside-back of the foil.
I noticed the rod was actually twisted at the point where two foil-pieces meet. Clearly a result of too much torsion force exhibited to the rod. As the rod occupies less then 50% of the diameter surface of the foil this was not a big surprise. It also explained the misalignment of the the sail-groove. The picture below shows the twist in the rod if you look carefully.



So I had the local workshop straighten out the rod again using heat and other clever stuff. Next I drilled new holes in the reinforcement rod, this time for M5 screws to get a stronger connection between the foil and the rod. I also had the workshop prepare a collar for me that slides exactly over the foil.




The collar has a slit to allow access to the sail-groove in the foil. It screws sideways into the reinforcement rod using M5 screws. I also added a few M4 screws into the front half of the foil. In hindsight I should have used rivets for those front screws as the foil has very little "meat" in the wall to tap a thread.

This is the result





This will give much more support to the torsion forces exhibited by the motor and I expect the rod no longer to get deformed because of torsion forces.

The original repair was actually done quite sloppy. The screws in the rod were only M4, not drilled perpendicular to the surface and clearly not strong enough as some of them ripped out the threads. Other were seized as no Duralac/Tef-gel was used.
What also went wrong during the original repair is that the reinforcement part that sits inside the base of the foil (a short piece of the same rod as earlier described) where it is connected to the drive system somehow managed to slide upwards into the foil-tube when they were drilling the hole for the bolt that connects the drive to the foil. The result was that the reinforcement part was not doing anything. Because of this the bolt-hole in the foil turned into an oval giving a lot of play in the connection. So I re-drilled/reassembled it to look like this


Now the bolt goes through the reinforcement and I also added a screw to fix the reinforcement part to the back of the foil-tube to prevent it from moving inside the foil. This makes the connection much stronger obviously.

Finally I also modified the outhaul-car to get some better attachment points for the drive system



I hope this is of some help to other Amel owners that may have similar problems.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Original inverter on SM 2000

Eloi Bamberg
 

Hi
I verified my setup: I have a Mastervolt 24/1200 in the engine room. It must be an original Amel setup because it is shown on the electrical scheme "schema detail K1 - K2" and, according to this scheme, it is "feeding" all of the 220V plugs and the microwave.

regards,
Eloi
SM2K 426 Red Lion


Re: A54 Main Sail furling foil weak point

 

It is worth noting and should be of interest to any SM and 54 owners that all SMs and most Amel 54s have the same diameter foil. It is 35mm. This changed with the last 54s.

In my experience, very few SMs have had a foil failure, and most SMs that have had a foil failure have purchased sails with battens. The Amel 54 was sold with battens standard in the Mainsail. I have seen many more Amel 54s experience this foil failure than SMs, even though more than twice as many SMs were made by Amel. Additionally, you will find that Amel increased the size of the foil with the last Amel 54s produced. If you have a foil larger than 35mm and battens in the main, you may not experience this failure. I suggest that if you have a 35mm foil, you might consider removing the battens. 

TRANSPARENCY: I do not recommend battens for Amels produced before the Amel 55 and with a 35mm foil. I believe the slight benefit associated with adding battens to a cruising boat's furling mainsail is NOT worth the Risks. Assuming that you would replace the failed 35mm foil with a new 1-piece 40mm foil, the replacement will cost you between 10,000 and 15,000 including labor.

 The repair kit for the Amel 54 35mm foil was designed by Amel:
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 10:08 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Dear Forum,

This week I finished a repair that may interest a few of you. From what I know quite a few A54s have had a repair to the foil inside the main mast.
Our build number 121 has had a repair on the foil at some point. Unknown who made the repair.

As we have bought a new mainsail I decided to do a close inspection of the furling system while there is no mainsail present. I noticed the sail-groove between the lower short piece of foil was not exactly in line with the large part that goes up the mast. Upon closer inspection and disassembly I found a few things.
Inside the foil at the point where the two pieces meet is a piece of half-round aluminum rod that connects the two pieces. It is screwed with 8 M4 screws to the inside-back of the foil.
I noticed the rod was actually twisted at the point where two foil-pieces meet. Clearly a result of too much torsion force exhibited to the rod. As the rod occupies less then 50% of the diameter surface of the foil this was not a big surprise. It also explained the misalignment of the the sail-groove. The picture below shows the twist in the rod if you look carefully.



So I had the local workshop straighten out the rod again using heat and other clever stuff. Next I drilled new holes in the reinforcement rod, this time for M5 screws to get a stronger connection between the foil and the rod. I also had the workshop prepare a collar for me that slides exactly over the foil.




The collar has a slit to allow access to the sail-groove in the foil. It screws sideways into the reinforcement rod using M5 screws. I also added a few M4 screws into the front half of the foil. In hindsight I should have used rivets for those front screws as the foil has very little "meat" in the wall to tap a thread.

This is the result





This will give much more support to the torsion forces exhibited by the motor and I expect the rod no longer to get deformed because of torsion forces.

The original repair was actually done quite sloppy. The screws in the rod were only M4, not drilled perpendicular to the surface and clearly not strong enough as some of them ripped out the threads. Other were seized as no Duralac/Tef-gel was used.
What also went wrong during the original repair is that the reinforcement part that sits inside the base of the foil (a short piece of the same rod as earlier described) where it is connected to the drive system somehow managed to slide upwards into the foil-tube when they were drilling the hole for the bolt that connects the drive to the foil. The result was that the reinforcement part was not doing anything. Because of this the bolt-hole in the foil turned into an oval giving a lot of play in the connection. So I re-drilled/reassembled it to look like this


Now the bolt goes through the reinforcement and I also added a screw to fix the reinforcement part to the back of the foil-tube to prevent it from moving inside the foil. This makes the connection much stronger obviously.

Finally I also modified the outhaul-car to get some better attachment points for the drive system



I hope this is of some help to other Amel owners that may have similar problems.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

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