Date   

Re: A54 Main Sail furling foil weak point

Porter McRoberts
 

Arno. Great solutions thank you. As with many things it’s not if but when, so when our foil goes I’ll be looking back to your photos. But also wanted to report: no foil issues yet: and no battens. Possible correlation supporting Bill R’s theory.   
Thanks again. 

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152 Society Islands
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Mar 28, 2021, at 7:53 AM, Markus Merz <markus.merz@...> wrote:



Just one little addition:

When the boat was new I had quite often problems, furling in the mainsail. But one day I noticed that it is necessary to put the boom absolutely horizontal. If you do so, you can reef and furl in any directions to the wind. I never had problems again.

All the best

Markus

SEDA, Amel 54, No 138

 

 

Von: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von "CW Bill Rouse via groups.io" <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Sonntag, 28. März 2021 um 18:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 Main Sail furling foil weak point

 

It is worth noting and should be of interest to any SM and 54 owners that all SMs and most Amel 54s have the same diameter foil. It is 35mm. This changed with the last 54s.

 

In my experience, very few SMs have had a foil failure, and most SMs that have had a foil failure have purchased sails with battens. The Amel 54 was sold with battens standard in the Mainsail. I have seen many more Amel 54s experience this foil failure than SMs, even though more than twice as many SMs were made by Amel. Additionally, you will find that Amel increased the size of the foil with the last Amel 54s produced. If you have a foil larger than 35mm and battens in the main, you may not experience this failure. I suggest that if you have a 35mm foil, you might consider removing the battens. 

 

TRANSPARENCY: I do not recommend battens for Amels produced before the Amel 55 and with a 35mm foil. I believe the slight benefit associated with adding battens to a cruising boat's furling mainsail is NOT worth the Risks. Assuming that you would replace the failed 35mm foil with a new 1-piece 40mm foil, the replacement will cost you between 10,000 and 15,000 including labor.

 

 The repair kit for the Amel 54 35mm foil was designed by Amel:

<image001.png>

 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 10:08 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Dear Forum,

This week I finished a repair that may interest a few of you. From what I know quite a few A54s have had a repair to the foil inside the main mast.
Our build number 121 has had a repair on the foil at some point. Unknown who made the repair.

As we have bought a new mainsail I decided to do a close inspection of the furling system while there is no mainsail present. I noticed the sail-groove between the lower short piece of foil was not exactly in line with the large part that goes up the mast. Upon closer inspection and disassembly I found a few things.
Inside the foil at the point where the two pieces meet is a piece of half-round aluminum rod that connects the two pieces. It is screwed with 8 M4 screws to the inside-back of the foil.
I noticed the rod was actually twisted at the point where two foil-pieces meet. Clearly a result of too much torsion force exhibited to the rod. As the rod occupies less then 50% of the diameter surface of the foil this was not a big surprise. It also explained the misalignment of the the sail-groove. The picture below shows the twist in the rod if you look carefully.

<image002.jpg>


So I had the local workshop straighten out the rod again using heat and other clever stuff. Next I drilled new holes in the reinforcement rod, this time for M5 screws to get a stronger connection between the foil and the rod. I also had the workshop prepare a collar for me that slides exactly over the foil.


<image003.jpg>


The collar has a slit to allow access to the sail-groove in the foil. It screws sideways into the reinforcement rod using M5 screws. I also added a few M4 screws into the front half of the foil. In hindsight I should have used rivets for those front screws as the foil has very little "meat" in the wall to tap a thread.

This is the result

<image004.jpg>
<image005.jpg>


<image005.jpg>
<image006.jpg>


This will give much more support to the torsion forces exhibited by the motor and I expect the rod no longer to get deformed because of torsion forces.

The original repair was actually done quite sloppy. The screws in the rod were only M4, not drilled perpendicular to the surface and clearly not strong enough as some of them ripped out the threads. Other were seized as no Duralac/Tef-gel was used.
What also went wrong during the original repair is that the reinforcement part that sits inside the base of the foil (a short piece of the same rod as earlier described) where it is connected to the drive system somehow managed to slide upwards into the foil-tube when they were drilling the hole for the bolt that connects the drive to the foil. The result was that the reinforcement part was not doing anything. Because of this the bolt-hole in the foil turned into an oval giving a lot of play in the connection. So I re-drilled/reassembled it to look like this

<image007.jpg>

Now the bolt goes through the reinforcement and I also added a screw to fix the reinforcement part to the back of the foil-tube to prevent it from moving inside the foil. This makes the connection much stronger obviously.

Finally I also modified the outhaul-car to get some better attachment points for the drive system

<image008.jpg>


I hope this is of some help to other Amel owners that may have similar problems.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: A54 Main Sail furling foil weak point

Markus Merz
 

Just one little addition:

When the boat was new I had quite often problems, furling in the mainsail. But one day I noticed that it is necessary to put the boom absolutely horizontal. If you do so, you can reef and furl in any directions to the wind. I never had problems again.

All the best

Markus

SEDA, Amel 54, No 138

 

 

Von: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von "CW Bill Rouse via groups.io" <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Sonntag, 28. März 2021 um 18:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 Main Sail furling foil weak point

 

It is worth noting and should be of interest to any SM and 54 owners that all SMs and most Amel 54s have the same diameter foil. It is 35mm. This changed with the last 54s.

 

In my experience, very few SMs have had a foil failure, and most SMs that have had a foil failure have purchased sails with battens. The Amel 54 was sold with battens standard in the Mainsail. I have seen many more Amel 54s experience this foil failure than SMs, even though more than twice as many SMs were made by Amel. Additionally, you will find that Amel increased the size of the foil with the last Amel 54s produced. If you have a foil larger than 35mm and battens in the main, you may not experience this failure. I suggest that if you have a 35mm foil, you might consider removing the battens. 

 

TRANSPARENCY: I do not recommend battens for Amels produced before the Amel 55 and with a 35mm foil. I believe the slight benefit associated with adding battens to a cruising boat's furling mainsail is NOT worth the Risks. Assuming that you would replace the failed 35mm foil with a new 1-piece 40mm foil, the replacement will cost you between 10,000 and 15,000 including labor.

 

 The repair kit for the Amel 54 35mm foil was designed by Amel:

 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 10:08 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Dear Forum,

This week I finished a repair that may interest a few of you. From what I know quite a few A54s have had a repair to the foil inside the main mast.
Our build number 121 has had a repair on the foil at some point. Unknown who made the repair.

As we have bought a new mainsail I decided to do a close inspection of the furling system while there is no mainsail present. I noticed the sail-groove between the lower short piece of foil was not exactly in line with the large part that goes up the mast. Upon closer inspection and disassembly I found a few things.
Inside the foil at the point where the two pieces meet is a piece of half-round aluminum rod that connects the two pieces. It is screwed with 8 M4 screws to the inside-back of the foil.
I noticed the rod was actually twisted at the point where two foil-pieces meet. Clearly a result of too much torsion force exhibited to the rod. As the rod occupies less then 50% of the diameter surface of the foil this was not a big surprise. It also explained the misalignment of the the sail-groove. The picture below shows the twist in the rod if you look carefully.



So I had the local workshop straighten out the rod again using heat and other clever stuff. Next I drilled new holes in the reinforcement rod, this time for M5 screws to get a stronger connection between the foil and the rod. I also had the workshop prepare a collar for me that slides exactly over the foil.




The collar has a slit to allow access to the sail-groove in the foil. It screws sideways into the reinforcement rod using M5 screws. I also added a few M4 screws into the front half of the foil. In hindsight I should have used rivets for those front screws as the foil has very little "meat" in the wall to tap a thread.

This is the result





This will give much more support to the torsion forces exhibited by the motor and I expect the rod no longer to get deformed because of torsion forces.

The original repair was actually done quite sloppy. The screws in the rod were only M4, not drilled perpendicular to the surface and clearly not strong enough as some of them ripped out the threads. Other were seized as no Duralac/Tef-gel was used.
What also went wrong during the original repair is that the reinforcement part that sits inside the base of the foil (a short piece of the same rod as earlier described) where it is connected to the drive system somehow managed to slide upwards into the foil-tube when they were drilling the hole for the bolt that connects the drive to the foil. The result was that the reinforcement part was not doing anything. Because of this the bolt-hole in the foil turned into an oval giving a lot of play in the connection. So I re-drilled/reassembled it to look like this


Now the bolt goes through the reinforcement and I also added a screw to fix the reinforcement part to the back of the foil-tube to prevent it from moving inside the foil. This makes the connection much stronger obviously.

Finally I also modified the outhaul-car to get some better attachment points for the drive system



I hope this is of some help to other Amel owners that may have similar problems.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Original inverter on SM 2000

Eloi Bamberg
 

Hi
I verified my setup: I have a Mastervolt 24/1200 in the engine room. It must be an original Amel setup because it is shown on the electrical scheme "schema detail K1 - K2" and, according to this scheme, it is "feeding" all of the 220V plugs and the microwave.

regards,
Eloi
SM2K 426 Red Lion


Re: A54 Main Sail furling foil weak point

 

It is worth noting and should be of interest to any SM and 54 owners that all SMs and most Amel 54s have the same diameter foil. It is 35mm. This changed with the last 54s.

In my experience, very few SMs have had a foil failure, and most SMs that have had a foil failure have purchased sails with battens. The Amel 54 was sold with battens standard in the Mainsail. I have seen many more Amel 54s experience this foil failure than SMs, even though more than twice as many SMs were made by Amel. Additionally, you will find that Amel increased the size of the foil with the last Amel 54s produced. If you have a foil larger than 35mm and battens in the main, you may not experience this failure. I suggest that if you have a 35mm foil, you might consider removing the battens. 

TRANSPARENCY: I do not recommend battens for Amels produced before the Amel 55 and with a 35mm foil. I believe the slight benefit associated with adding battens to a cruising boat's furling mainsail is NOT worth the Risks. Assuming that you would replace the failed 35mm foil with a new 1-piece 40mm foil, the replacement will cost you between 10,000 and 15,000 including labor.

 The repair kit for the Amel 54 35mm foil was designed by Amel:
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 10:08 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Dear Forum,

This week I finished a repair that may interest a few of you. From what I know quite a few A54s have had a repair to the foil inside the main mast.
Our build number 121 has had a repair on the foil at some point. Unknown who made the repair.

As we have bought a new mainsail I decided to do a close inspection of the furling system while there is no mainsail present. I noticed the sail-groove between the lower short piece of foil was not exactly in line with the large part that goes up the mast. Upon closer inspection and disassembly I found a few things.
Inside the foil at the point where the two pieces meet is a piece of half-round aluminum rod that connects the two pieces. It is screwed with 8 M4 screws to the inside-back of the foil.
I noticed the rod was actually twisted at the point where two foil-pieces meet. Clearly a result of too much torsion force exhibited to the rod. As the rod occupies less then 50% of the diameter surface of the foil this was not a big surprise. It also explained the misalignment of the the sail-groove. The picture below shows the twist in the rod if you look carefully.



So I had the local workshop straighten out the rod again using heat and other clever stuff. Next I drilled new holes in the reinforcement rod, this time for M5 screws to get a stronger connection between the foil and the rod. I also had the workshop prepare a collar for me that slides exactly over the foil.




The collar has a slit to allow access to the sail-groove in the foil. It screws sideways into the reinforcement rod using M5 screws. I also added a few M4 screws into the front half of the foil. In hindsight I should have used rivets for those front screws as the foil has very little "meat" in the wall to tap a thread.

This is the result





This will give much more support to the torsion forces exhibited by the motor and I expect the rod no longer to get deformed because of torsion forces.

The original repair was actually done quite sloppy. The screws in the rod were only M4, not drilled perpendicular to the surface and clearly not strong enough as some of them ripped out the threads. Other were seized as no Duralac/Tef-gel was used.
What also went wrong during the original repair is that the reinforcement part that sits inside the base of the foil (a short piece of the same rod as earlier described) where it is connected to the drive system somehow managed to slide upwards into the foil-tube when they were drilling the hole for the bolt that connects the drive to the foil. The result was that the reinforcement part was not doing anything. Because of this the bolt-hole in the foil turned into an oval giving a lot of play in the connection. So I re-drilled/reassembled it to look like this


Now the bolt goes through the reinforcement and I also added a screw to fix the reinforcement part to the back of the foil-tube to prevent it from moving inside the foil. This makes the connection much stronger obviously.

Finally I also modified the outhaul-car to get some better attachment points for the drive system



I hope this is of some help to other Amel owners that may have similar problems.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


asymmetrical spinnaker

PAOLO CUNEO
 

 

Hi all,

Here the documentation of my approach to the Code Zero (better: G Zero to use the wording of my sailmaker, 92 sm, integral anti-twist halyard, detachable bow roller). The video shows the final check of the clearance between the rolled genoa and the dummy halyard I used for the test, using the central roller as a tack .Both rigger and sailmaker agreed that everything seemed ok so I decided to proceed.

The photos show the dyneema strip (trebled) in an open loop that goes around the rubber central roller and is  made fast with the snapshackle. Note: in my case the loop must be as short as possible to avoid twisting, as I use a roll-on Code D with integral anti-twist halyard sewn in and its attachment point must not turn. As it is, the dyneema loop makes about half a turn then stops, allowing the halyard to start rolling up the Code.  If somebody is using  a sleeve instead, this point is, obviously, not a critical one. The last two photos show the  code in place, rolled at rest and in action. It can be seen that the clearance is not big but sufficient for the purpose, and in one season use, the system  proved  basically trouble free

Regards,

Paolo Cuneo

SM 454 Whisper


--
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper


A54 Main Sail furling foil weak point

Arno Luijten
 

Dear Forum,

This week I finished a repair that may interest a few of you. From what I know quite a few A54s have had a repair to the foil inside the main mast.
Our build number 121 has had a repair on the foil at some point. Unknown who made the repair.

As we have bought a new mainsail I decided to do a close inspection of the furling system while there is no mainsail present. I noticed the sail-groove between the lower short piece of foil was not exactly in line with the large part that goes up the mast. Upon closer inspection and disassembly I found a few things.
Inside the foil at the point where the two pieces meet is a piece of half-round aluminum rod that connects the two pieces. It is screwed with 8 M4 screws to the inside-back of the foil.
I noticed the rod was actually twisted at the point where two foil-pieces meet. Clearly a result of too much torsion force exhibited to the rod. As the rod occupies less then 50% of the diameter surface of the foil this was not a big surprise. It also explained the misalignment of the the sail-groove. The picture below shows the twist in the rod if you look carefully.



So I had the local workshop straighten out the rod again using heat and other clever stuff. Next I drilled new holes in the reinforcement rod, this time for M5 screws to get a stronger connection between the foil and the rod. I also had the workshop prepare a collar for me that slides exactly over the foil.




The collar has a slit to allow access to the sail-groove in the foil. It screws sideways into the reinforcement rod using M5 screws. I also added a few M4 screws into the front half of the foil. In hindsight I should have used rivets for those front screws as the foil has very little "meat" in the wall to tap a thread.

This is the result





This will give much more support to the torsion forces exhibited by the motor and I expect the rod no longer to get deformed because of torsion forces.

The original repair was actually done quite sloppy. The screws in the rod were only M4, not drilled perpendicular to the surface and clearly not strong enough as some of them ripped out the threads. Other were seized as no Duralac/Tef-gel was used.
What also went wrong during the original repair is that the reinforcement part that sits inside the base of the foil (a short piece of the same rod as earlier described) where it is connected to the drive system somehow managed to slide upwards into the foil-tube when they were drilling the hole for the bolt that connects the drive to the foil. The result was that the reinforcement part was not doing anything. Because of this the bolt-hole in the foil turned into an oval giving a lot of play in the connection. So I re-drilled/reassembled it to look like this


Now the bolt goes through the reinforcement and I also added a screw to fix the reinforcement part to the back of the foil-tube to prevent it from moving inside the foil. This makes the connection much stronger obviously.

Finally I also modified the outhaul-car to get some better attachment points for the drive system



I hope this is of some help to other Amel owners that may have similar problems.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Original inverter on SM 2000

 

Yes, that 500 watt inverter was for the TV and installed if you bought the TV package
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 7:18 AM Barry Connor via groups.io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Having just completed my Lithium install I have this Mastervolt mass sine 24/500. Excellent condition.
Available if anyone is in need.

Barry and Penny
"SV Lady Penelope II"
Amel 54.  #17
Sainte Anne anchorage  Martinique

On Sunday, March 28, 2021, 5:49:23 AM EDT, Slavko Despotovic <slavko@...> wrote:


Update to inverter. It is Mastervolt  mass sine 24/500. It is installed opposite  to 24/12V converter bellow the navigation desk. Supplies 220V to computer on navigation desk and TV set.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Re: asymmetrical spinnaker

PAOLO CUNEO
 

Eric,
Your solution of a short removable bowsprit is sound and well proven, no question about that, and I much respect it. Mine is only a matter of a personal preference, and I took a little bit of a chance trying something of which, at least in my area, there was no .previous reference. Fortunately everything went well and I’ll put some photos on my next post
Bests
Paolo
SM 454 Whisper

Inviato da iPad

--
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper


Re: Original inverter on SM 2000

Barry Connor
 

Having just completed my Lithium install I have this Mastervolt mass sine 24/500. Excellent condition.
Available if anyone is in need.

Barry and Penny
"SV Lady Penelope II"
Amel 54.  #17
Sainte Anne anchorage  Martinique

On Sunday, March 28, 2021, 5:49:23 AM EDT, Slavko Despotovic <slavko@...> wrote:


Update to inverter. It is Mastervolt  mass sine 24/500. It is installed opposite  to 24/12V converter bellow the navigation desk. Supplies 220V to computer on navigation desk and TV set.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Re: Original inverter on SM 2000

Slavko Despotovic
 

Update to inverter. It is Mastervolt  mass sine 24/500. It is installed opposite  to 24/12V converter bellow the navigation desk. Supplies 220V to computer on navigation desk and TV set.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Re: Windscreen Replacement

Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...>
 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHpFEHGCyqg

From about 14:40 to 17:40 this video shows the replacement of the front windows.  ALL OF THEM (4) for a total of $1200.  And, after 2 years, I am still happy with the final product.  

Best,

Ken Powers
Aquarius currently in Thailand
SM2K#262


Re: Windscreen Replacement

Bill Kinney
 

US$1400 for materials?   That seems rather.... insane.

A 36"x72" sheet of 3/8 (10mm) acrylic sheet costs less than US$300 retail in the US market.  It always pays to shop around...


Re: asymmetrical spinnaker

Eloi Bamberg
 

I think if the sail is luffing there is a risk that the line get stucked, so i prefere this setup with more guidance.

Eloi


Windscreen Replacement

eric freedman
 

Hi Bill,

From whom did you get the material and labor?

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of william reynolds
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 12:11 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Windscreen Replacement

 

I tried to replace my forward and side acrylic windows and was quoted $1400.00 US for the material and $600.00 to install them
I checked St Thomas and the 10mm acrylic price was $280.00 US  and $200.00 US to cut and drill them. I removed the old windows with my Fein Tool scraper blade.
They would have installed them for $240.00 US more.
Bill Reynolds
Cloudstreet SM2K 331


Re: Windscreen Replacement

 

I bought the Plexiglass brand from a dealer in Turkey.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Mar 27, 2021 at 12:59 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,

From whom did you get the material and labor?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of william reynolds
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 12:11 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Windscreen Replacement

 

I tried to replace my forward and side acrylic windows and was quoted $1400.00 US for the material and $600.00 to install them
I checked St Thomas and the 10mm acrylic price was $280.00 US  and $200.00 US to cut and drill them. I removed the old windows with my Fein Tool scraper blade.
They would have installed them for $240.00 US more.
Bill Reynolds
Cloudstreet SM2K 331


Re: Windscreen Replacement

eric freedman
 

Hi Bill,

From whom did you get the material and labor?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of william reynolds
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 12:11 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Windscreen Replacement

 

I tried to replace my forward and side acrylic windows and was quoted $1400.00 US for the material and $600.00 to install them
I checked St Thomas and the 10mm acrylic price was $280.00 US  and $200.00 US to cut and drill them. I removed the old windows with my Fein Tool scraper blade.
They would have installed them for $240.00 US more.
Bill Reynolds
Cloudstreet SM2K 331


Re: asymmetrical spinnaker

eric freedman
 

Hi Paolo,
I had a removable forestay made. It sits about 2 1/2 feet forward of the bow. It is only 3 feet long in total. I has a Harken swivel block on the end and mounts in about a minute . I store it in the port cockpit locker.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of PAOLO CUNEO
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 8:44 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] asymmetrical spinnaker

Hi all,
Hope to be on board tomorrow and make some photos. Also , I am trying to trace back all the pictures taken during my discussions with the rigger as this has been a long story, everybody trying to convince me to accept the standard solution of a bowsprit, fixed or removable, which I didn’t want.
Back soon with a post
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper


Inviato da iPad

--
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper


Re: Windscreen Replacement

Brent Cameron
 

While $200 is definitely worth it and cutting and drilling acrylic sheet, perspex or plexiglas is a bit nerve wracking, it is quite easy to do yourself without special tools.  The secret is to go slow and use fine toothed blades with tape on the acrylic where you will run your saw so that you don’t scratch it.  

I had a $1200 4’x6’ plexiglass bubble canopy made for my homebuilt airplane and it was shipped to me as a WAY oversized bubble that I had to cut at least 6” off of each edge and drill about 100 holes in it so that I could rivet it to the frame.  I was completely panicked about cutting it myself as I had visions of it cracking or me screwing up and slipping and me cutting it on a wrong angle.  It took me about 2 weeks to work up the courage to cut it.  In the end, I just put down some wide masking tape (painter’s tape) to rest the jigsaw on (and drew my cutting line on it), set up a guide fence (a small wooden baton that I clamped at each end the right distance away from my line), and let her rip with my hand electric jigsaw with a fine toothed metal blade on it.  I went nice and slow and kept the jigsaw up tight against my ‘fence”.  The lines that came out looked like they were cut with a laser and a touch of 600 grit sandpaper rounded over the edges to make nice clean edges for the exposed edges.  

I also had a few parts with radical compound curves that I had to cut with a grinder disk and those were easy as well although getting a perfectly straight line was a bit more challenging as I had to use the grinder free hand so I went a bit wide of the line and then “sanded” back to the line with wet/dry sandpaper (started with 220 grit and went to 600 as I got to the line).  

Same for drilling…. Don’t run your drill at max speed, start with a small bit dead centre of where you want it and then go to your proper size next.  Don’t try to force the bit through… just let the bit drag the drill through slowly.  I put a backing block behind the plexiglass that I drilled into but later I found this wasn’t necessary as long as I went slowly.   I went really slowly at first but by about the 20th hole and my second cut, I had the confidence to work much faster and I had the whole canopy trimmed and fitted in about 3 hours. It came out perfectly and looked like it was moulded exactly the size and with the holes perfectly placed (much easier to do that with the holes in the frame already drilled.      

I wouldn’t think twice now about getting sheets of acrylic and cutting, drilling and countersinking them myself.  You can practice on a few scraps until you perfect your technique but if you can cut a sheet of plywood, you can cut this stuff.  

Brent

On Mar 27, 2021, 12:10 PM -0400, william reynolds <sail23692@...>, wrote:
I tried to replace my forward and side acrylic windows and was quoted $1400.00 US for the material and $600.00 to install them
I checked St Thomas and the 10mm acrylic price was $280.00 US  and $200.00 US to cut and drill them. I removed the old windows with my Fein Tool scraper blade.
They would have installed them for $240.00 US more.
Bill Reynolds
Cloudstreet SM2K 331

--
Brent Cameron

Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator

Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada


Re: Windscreen Replacement

 

Including all material, all labor, and including routing for a gasket and new gasket on the port side windshield, and including painting a 30mm stripe around 3 of the 4, will be around 1000 euro, including installation.

Of course, prices will vary from place-to-place. The difference in price will mostly be the difference in profit.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Mar 27, 2021 at 11:10 AM william reynolds <sail23692@...> wrote:
I tried to replace my forward and side acrylic windows and was quoted $1400.00 US for the material and $600.00 to install them
I checked St Thomas and the 10mm acrylic price was $280.00 US  and $200.00 US to cut and drill them. I removed the old windows with my Fein Tool scraper blade.
They would have installed them for $240.00 US more.
Bill Reynolds
Cloudstreet SM2K 331


Re: asymmetrical spinnaker

 

Is there a reseason why you do not simply use the center roller, taking the tack line under the roller, and forgetting about the line fairlead?

Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Mar 27, 2021 at 10:35 AM Eloi Bamberg <eloi.bamberg@...> wrote:
Hallo,
Based on the answers of this tread and the Amel official manuel, here the 2 solutions i figured out. I will try both of them when we can sail again.
solution 1 (roll for second anchor)


solution 2 (official Amel version)


regards,

Eloi
SM2K 426 Red Lion

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