Electric shock from the windlass
Hi all, For some time now, when I operate the windlass, either from the control in the cockpit or using the switch on the windlass, I have received a significant electric shock if I touch either the shrouds or the guard rail (wet deck, bare feet). I've already called an electrician to no avail (actually for a very quick and superficial check) and I think, at this point, I need the help of the Amel community.
Keeping in mind that I am practically illiterate in terms of electrical systems, is there anyone who can tell me, step by step, which checks I need to do and in what logical order?
Thank you all
Paolo Cuneo SM 454 Whisper Back to Genoa after a conservative (due to COVID) summer cruise
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Craig Briggs
Hi James, You can email Pat at sailw32 at aol dot com. He and I are coordinating on this so you could also write me at sangaris at aol dot com or just call me on 561.932.9349 Glad to answer any questions. Craig -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Hi Pat - thank you for to your efforts to find the rub rail insert. I'd like to contact you direct to discuss ordering it - would you please repost your contact, as it didn't seem to be complete in your previous email.
Best, James SV Soteria SM2K. 347 Baranof, AK
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Aug 28, 2020 6:27 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote: Joel will not exaggerate!
Well, Joel does get excited, in a good way, about things dear to him. And, if anyone knows Joel, Amels are very dear to him, and rightfully so!
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Joel would never say something so untrue. A new insert might make the boat sell quicker and for a bit more money, but not 15%. Craig, I have told you a billion times not to exaggerate... JOEL F. POTTER CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY Office 954-462-5869 Just to add minor notes to Pat McAneny's post, this new insert perfectly matches my old SN insert (identical to the SM insert) and absolutely looks far better in off-white. Being made of EPDM it will stand up to UV and will not chalk up like the originals. They're made by Techno Rubber Industries in Miami and I visited their plant for an "eyes on" - they're a family business that's the "real deal". You can Google them for a look-see.
Installation is easily accomplished with a spray bottle of water and dish detergent plus a blunt "pusher". I used a hand held 1/4" socket driver (without a socket) as pusher. Here's a pic - the tool is lying on the deck, but anything similar will work - it does take some force to work the inside edge of the insert down against the outside of the cap rail.
It will take you 5 minutes to remove the old insert - just pry up one end and pull - and about an hour per side to install the new. Amel carved away the bottom section of the originals in the areas of the chainplates and you'll need to copy that on this new one.
Before installing the new insert, I'd recommend taking the time to wash out the empty channel as it really accumulates dirt and then clean and wax the hull and rub rail, patching any gelcoat nicks you may have.
I think it will be a super improvement and Joel says to add 15% to your asking price when you sell. (Well, maybe not an exact quote, but, hey!)
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: PLEASE CONFIRM FINAL Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.
Hi David,
please send me your mailing info.
Thank You,
Eric
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On August 28, 2020 at 11:13 AM Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:
Hi Eric, I'll take 1 please
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of eric freedman <kimberlite@...> Sent: Thursday, 27 August 2020 10:36 PM To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io> Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] PLEASE CONFIRM FINAL Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.
Hi,
I have requests for the exhaust sensors from the following people :
Mark Pitt 1 piece
Mohammad Shirloo 3 pieces
Jim Anderson 1 piece I need your mailing address
Bob Rossi 1 piece I need your mailing address
Vladimir Sonsev 1 piece
If there is anyone else who wishes this switch please let me know—I will order on Tuesday.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376
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Re: PLEASE CONFIRM FINAL Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.
Hi Eric, I'll take 1 please
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Sent: Thursday, 27 August 2020 10:36 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] PLEASE CONFIRM FINAL Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.
Hi,
I have requests for the exhaust sensors from the following people :
Mark Pitt 1 piece
Mohammad Shirloo 3 pieces
Jim Anderson 1 piece I need your mailing address
Bob Rossi 1 piece I need your mailing address
Vladimir Sonsev 1 piece
If there is anyone else who wishes this switch please let me know—I will order on Tuesday.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376
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Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54
Porter,
This is a photo of the Amel 50 saltwater manifold. If I were you, I would do something like this in PVC:
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Paul. We concerns of a plastic manifold... Or a plastic sea chest with a fire! Wow. There are critical concerns with every boat for sure. Or a crack in the Seachest lid! We have replacements. The boat did not come with one. After sailing for a while and letting the mind wander I think of all kinds of scenarios. The sea chest lid threads get screwed up.... Extra o rings? We got some but... One can go on and on. You’re line of questioning is a good one. What would Amel say?
Lets hope we never have an ER fire!
Porter Porter McRoberts S/V IBIS WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206On Aug 27, 2020, at 1:27 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Last paragraph Porter’s Email: attached is the part.
April/May 2018 it broke off completely on AMELIT; this is the replacement part I got from AMEL.
I noticed the new unit “sweating” & oxidizing rather quickly; it almost looked like 2 different metals were used. In July/August 2019, in VANUATU, checking & prepping
the boat for the trip to the SOLOMONS, my local mechanic Matthieu & I decided to remove this unit completely and replace with a plastic (PVC???) self built unit which has been doing great with no “sweating” at all.
When I asked Thierry (AMEL SAV) this was his reply:
QUOTE
To answer your question this manifold is custom made by Amel . The welding between brass fitting and copper pipe is carefully done and there is no risk of leakage.
UNQUOTE
I have also been planning to redo everything along the A50/60 concept with individual shut off valves for each downstream line.
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT A54 #128
I am stuck & bored
☹ and have been cruising on my motorcycle (March/April) all over BAJA CALIFORNIA
😊
😊 and since June in USA via magnificient State & National Parks on my way to ANNAPOLIS boatshow
😊
AMELIT is in storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA and now watched by fellow AMEL owners Sue & Brian MITCHELL (SV LOLA)
August 27, 2020
16:20:07
USA cell: +1 832 477 8842
AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909
You can follow AMELIT via this link:
https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT
This is indeed a serious issue.
We had the initial bronze manifold on IBIS. Looked horrible and so when we ordered our arch from Turkey had a stainless replacement manifold constructed. About 2 years ago I changed the bronze one, with significant corrosion to the stainless
replacement. One year after replacement upon inspection in NZ I found a small pit and a leak. It was in NZ that I had the resources to build a new manifold out of plastic. I had reservations about the material (plastic vs metal) but recall from an A55 that
I believe the stock manifold is plastic on the A55. Encouraged by the chandlery in Opua I built a plastic one. It took a couple of days, a lot of measuring and 5200. I put in isolation valves. I think it is far better than the original. I’d encourage any others
who have the resources of a nearby good plumbing chandlery to think about it. One of the very cool parts of the A55 is the ability to isolate and turn of seawater to specific downstream applications. (Don’t have to turn off the refrigerator to work on the
AC pump)
I think we’re a lot safer now. I repaired the stainless manifold and keep as a spare, but would be lothe to return to it.
Keep in mind there is another smaller manifold (of which we also keep a spare) starbord of the seachest that distributes to the main engine, and then to the distribution manifold via a (formerly iffy) looking hose. That manifold could also
easily fail. Amel has replacements.
On Aug 27, 2020, at 3:38 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:
Jamie,
I built a new one from off-the-shelf bronze fittings and a short piece of reinforced hose in the middle. Two years on and no problems, and it will be much easier to repair next time as it can be taken apart in
the middle before pulling the parts out which is much easier than getting the original out.
I would also be interested if anyone else has adopted this solution and how long it has lasted.
Cheers,
Paul
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
I want to report a serious issue regarding the raw-water manifold that feeds the refrigerator, anchor wash, AC, and watermaker pumps on my A54. As I was servicing the sea chest strainer and cleaning out the clogged hoses, the nipple connection
feeding the refrigerator pump broke off from the manifold. It actually appears to have been cracked already and was essentially sucking in some air with the cooling water. You can tell that when you hear a slight gurgling sound at the discharge thru-hull -
initially I thought it was a pump problem related to insufficient cooling water through the main system strainer. Luckily I was on board at the time - if not, seawater may have poured into the engine room relying on only the automatic bilge pump to keep the
water out. If the water ingress had been more than the bilge pump could discharge, the boat might have sunk (a very scary thought!).
I removed the manifold - no easy task, as it is buried behind the hoses, wires, and the cockpit scupper. The manifold appears to be made of bronze, but there was some external corrosion evident at the joint between the refrigerator connection and the main manifold
tubing. It is likely that the corrosion is far worse inside the manifold, and that is hard to see when there is a lot of muck building up in the tubing. Very probably, the other nipples have similar corrosion issues inside.
So, I am now in the process of trying to replace the seawater manifold. I have 2 options: the first is to replace in kind, either custom built in a local fab shop or ordered through Amel; the second is to build one out of bronze fittings, pipe, and hose sections.
I am not sure if any local shops can work with bronze, but I am investigating that possibility first. I am certain that Amel had these things built specifically for the A54 and maybe the SM or even the A55 - I am not sure if it is common to all models, but
I question whether Amel could still source a replacement. The advantage to an in-kind replacement is that it would be a drop-in and also be smaller and lighter. The advantage to a manifold built from fittings is that I can install shut-off valves for each
feed circuit, allowing me to isolate if there is a problem with one of the systems and retain the other systems in operation while I service the failed system. I like that concept the best, as many times I have to work on one of the feeders, while having to
shut down everything to do it via the main in-line valve. By the way, that valve also looks suspect to me and I will be replacing it.
So, I am passing on my experience to the group as a reminder to check this manifold on a periodic basis. It is hard to see internal corrosion, but it is clear that even bronze will eventually fail. Phantom is now 13 years old, so maybe I was due for replacement.
Has anyone else had this failure, and if so, what was your best solution to replace? Has anyone attempted to source from Amel?
Thanks,
Jamie Wendell
Phantom, A54 #44
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
<IMG-20190520-WA0006.jpg>
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Joel will not exaggerate!
Well, Joel does get excited, in a good way, about things dear to him. And, if anyone knows Joel, Amels are very dear to him, and rightfully so!
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
|
|
|
Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
|
|
|
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Joel would never say something so untrue. A new insert might make the boat sell quicker and for a bit more money, but not 15%. Craig, I have told you a billion times not to exaggerate... JOEL F. POTTER CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY Office 954-462-5869 Just to add minor notes to Pat McAneny's post, this new insert perfectly matches my old SN insert (identical to the SM insert) and absolutely looks far better in off-white. Being made of EPDM it will stand up to UV and will not chalk up like the originals. They're made by Techno Rubber Industries in Miami and I visited their plant for an "eyes on" - they're a family business that's the "real deal". You can Google them for a look-see. Installation is easily accomplished with a spray bottle of water and dish detergent plus a blunt "pusher". I used a hand held 1/4" socket driver (without a socket) as pusher. Here's a pic - the tool is lying on the deck, but anything similar will work - it does take some force to work the inside edge of the insert down against the outside of the cap rail. It will take you 5 minutes to remove the old insert - just pry up one end and pull - and about an hour per side to install the new. Amel carved away the bottom section of the originals in the areas of the chainplates and you'll need to copy that on this new one. Before installing the new insert, I'd recommend taking the time to wash out the empty channel as it really accumulates dirt and then clean and wax the hull and rub rail, patching any gelcoat nicks you may have. I think it will be a super improvement and Joel says to add 15% to your asking price when you sell. (Well, maybe not an exact quote, but, hey!) Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling

Barry Connor
Hi Paul, We are still in Le Marin. Went to the shop upstairs above Caraibe Marine and bought a new fridge door opening latch. The big French man in the shop was nice and recommended the all stainless steel latch instead of the original latch which was part plastic. (The plastic part had broken).His price was the same as advertised online from UK supplier. Easy install by me. Is this possibly who you are referring to as we are thinking of asking him to check our fridge gas pressure? The gas pipe at the back is freezing up and dropping water on top of the water tank inspection port, then the water runs to under the stair. Mopping it up each morning. Think I have too much gas in the system. I have already Re-claged the pipe in insulation but still freezing up. Please let me know if you think this is the same man? We contacted Driftwood about our windscreens but can’t get to Granada, still stuck in Martinique. Thank’s for the contact. Very Best
Barry and Penny “SV Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Aug 28, 2020, at 04:00, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:
Yes, that’s exactly what happened to me in Le Marin and I fell for it ☹ Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Ken Powers SV Aquarius Sent: 28 August 2020 07:29 To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Galley refrigerator not cooling You need to be very careful when cleaning your fridge. If you get the ice off the plate with something that could puncture the gas lines within the plate, this is not being very careful. One of my fridges was not working, and actually found a honest refrigeration guy in Tahiti. He said, yeah I could change some parts, but I don't think that's the problem. The quick connect links (that only cost a few dollars) usually go bad, so let's change them and fill up back up and run it. It worked! Paid for an hour of time, little bit of gas, and two quick connect gaskets... Still working 2.5 years later.... All for less than $100 dollar bill.
Now, if you were in Le Marin. there's a 6' 2" French guy that will tell you you need a new refrigerator and installation which cost only $3500.
Cheers,
Ken Aquarius SM2K #262 Still in Thailand -- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling
@Denis Correct, some knowledge is always useful. But where to start? Some people knows which way to turn a valve to close or to open, but other ones not. There are several DIY guides available asking Google. All refrigerators, airconditioners and other cooling device I have seen in my life have somewhere the needed information either in the manual or at a decal which kind of refrigerant and how many refrigerant (in weight) the system has. For completely refill a system the first important rule is: Refill not too much and not too less. So a professionell use a scale to weight the refrigerant bottle during the fill process. -- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
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Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling

Denis Foster
Hello,
Once I had to have a refill by a professional frigorist we did both the fridges and the AC.
i looked at what he was doing all the time, he was very meticulous and took his time which he told me was important to measure accurately the refrigerant filling.
Having the right equipment is one thing having the knowledge how To do it seems not that simple.
Do you have DIY guide?
Regards
Denis ex Meltem #32
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Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling
I have had the same problem after a long hot weather period. My fridge has 2 compartments, one for freeze goods (-18 °C) and one normal goods (0-5 °C) but one compressor for both. The normal cooling compartment becomes too warm (about +20°C) and the compressor was getting hot. The freeze compartment was still at -15°C. All this is a sign of too less cooling liquid (R134a). So I ordered a refrigeration service who refilled a little bit R134a liquid and it worked again as it should. You can do it yourself if you have the correct equipment and a bottle of R134a or other refrigerant your fridge has. If however your cooling system might have a leak and all refrigerant is gone first the leak must repaired. There are chemicals available to detect leaks. Then before refilling the cooling system it must be evacuated with a vaccum pump. A service kit together with a vacuum pump is not very expensive: https://www.amazon.com/AUTOGEN-Portable-Refrigeration-Manifold-Conditioning/dp/B07XXP659P/ref=sr_1_16?crid=3D4BZWQ9XEYJ0&dchild=1&keywords=r134a+refrigerant+kit&qid=1598607191&sprefix=R134%2Caps%2C310&sr=8-16When sailing in areas where is no service man available it is worth to buy such a kit. -- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
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Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54
Paul. We concerns of a plastic manifold... Or a plastic sea chest with a fire! Wow. There are critical concerns with every boat for sure. Or a crack in the Seachest lid! We have replacements. The boat did not come with one. After sailing for a while and letting the mind wander I think of all kinds of scenarios. The sea chest lid threads get screwed up.... Extra o rings? We got some but... One can go on and on. You’re line of questioning is a good one. What would Amel say?
Lets hope we never have an ER fire!
Porter Porter McRoberts S/V IBIS WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206Www.fouribis.net
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Aug 27, 2020, at 1:27 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Last paragraph Porter’s Email: attached is the part.
April/May 2018 it broke off completely on AMELIT; this is the replacement part I got from AMEL.
I noticed the new unit “sweating” & oxidizing rather quickly; it almost looked like 2 different metals were used. In July/August 2019, in VANUATU, checking & prepping
the boat for the trip to the SOLOMONS, my local mechanic Matthieu & I decided to remove this unit completely and replace with a plastic (PVC???) self built unit which has been doing great with no “sweating” at all.
When I asked Thierry (AMEL SAV) this was his reply:
QUOTE
To answer your question this manifold is custom made by Amel . The welding between brass fitting and copper pipe is carefully done and there is no risk of leakage.
UNQUOTE
I have also been planning to redo everything along the A50/60 concept with individual shut off valves for each downstream line.
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT A54 #128
I am stuck & bored
☹ and have been cruising on my motorcycle (March/April) all over BAJA CALIFORNIA
😊
😊 and since June in USA via magnificient State & National Parks on my way to ANNAPOLIS boatshow
😊
AMELIT is in storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA and now watched by fellow AMEL owners Sue & Brian MITCHELL (SV LOLA)
August 27, 2020
16:20:07
USA cell: +1 832 477 8842
AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909
You can follow AMELIT via this link:
https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2020 12:40
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54
This is indeed a serious issue.
We had the initial bronze manifold on IBIS. Looked horrible and so when we ordered our arch from Turkey had a stainless replacement manifold constructed. About 2 years ago I changed the bronze one, with significant corrosion to the stainless
replacement. One year after replacement upon inspection in NZ I found a small pit and a leak. It was in NZ that I had the resources to build a new manifold out of plastic. I had reservations about the material (plastic vs metal) but recall from an A55 that
I believe the stock manifold is plastic on the A55. Encouraged by the chandlery in Opua I built a plastic one. It took a couple of days, a lot of measuring and 5200. I put in isolation valves. I think it is far better than the original. I’d encourage any others
who have the resources of a nearby good plumbing chandlery to think about it. One of the very cool parts of the A55 is the ability to isolate and turn of seawater to specific downstream applications. (Don’t have to turn off the refrigerator to work on the
AC pump)
I think we’re a lot safer now. I repaired the stainless manifold and keep as a spare, but would be lothe to return to it.
Keep in mind there is another smaller manifold (of which we also keep a spare) starbord of the seachest that distributes to the main engine, and then to the distribution manifold via a (formerly iffy) looking hose. That manifold could also
easily fail. Amel has replacements.
On Aug 27, 2020, at 3:38 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:
Jamie,
I built a new one from off-the-shelf bronze fittings and a short piece of reinforced hose in the middle. Two years on and no problems, and it will be much easier to repair next time as it can be taken apart in
the middle before pulling the parts out which is much easier than getting the original out.
I would also be interested if anyone else has adopted this solution and how long it has lasted.
Cheers,
Paul
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
I want to report a serious issue regarding the raw-water manifold that feeds the refrigerator, anchor wash, AC, and watermaker pumps on my A54. As I was servicing the sea chest strainer and cleaning out the clogged hoses, the nipple connection
feeding the refrigerator pump broke off from the manifold. It actually appears to have been cracked already and was essentially sucking in some air with the cooling water. You can tell that when you hear a slight gurgling sound at the discharge thru-hull -
initially I thought it was a pump problem related to insufficient cooling water through the main system strainer. Luckily I was on board at the time - if not, seawater may have poured into the engine room relying on only the automatic bilge pump to keep the
water out. If the water ingress had been more than the bilge pump could discharge, the boat might have sunk (a very scary thought!).
I removed the manifold - no easy task, as it is buried behind the hoses, wires, and the cockpit scupper. The manifold appears to be made of bronze, but there was some external corrosion evident at the joint between the refrigerator connection and the main manifold
tubing. It is likely that the corrosion is far worse inside the manifold, and that is hard to see when there is a lot of muck building up in the tubing. Very probably, the other nipples have similar corrosion issues inside.
So, I am now in the process of trying to replace the seawater manifold. I have 2 options: the first is to replace in kind, either custom built in a local fab shop or ordered through Amel; the second is to build one out of bronze fittings, pipe, and hose sections.
I am not sure if any local shops can work with bronze, but I am investigating that possibility first. I am certain that Amel had these things built specifically for the A54 and maybe the SM or even the A55 - I am not sure if it is common to all models, but
I question whether Amel could still source a replacement. The advantage to an in-kind replacement is that it would be a drop-in and also be smaller and lighter. The advantage to a manifold built from fittings is that I can install shut-off valves for each
feed circuit, allowing me to isolate if there is a problem with one of the systems and retain the other systems in operation while I service the failed system. I like that concept the best, as many times I have to work on one of the feeders, while having to
shut down everything to do it via the main in-line valve. By the way, that valve also looks suspect to me and I will be replacing it.
So, I am passing on my experience to the group as a reminder to check this manifold on a periodic basis. It is hard to see internal corrosion, but it is clear that even bronze will eventually fail. Phantom is now 13 years old, so maybe I was due for replacement.
Has anyone else had this failure, and if so, what was your best solution to replace? Has anyone attempted to source from Amel?
Thanks,
Jamie Wendell
Phantom, A54 #44
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
<IMG-20190520-WA0006.jpg>
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Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling
Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Yes, that’s exactly what happened to me in Le Marin and I fell for it ☹ Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Ken Powers SV Aquarius Sent: 28 August 2020 07:29 To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Galley refrigerator not cooling You need to be very careful when cleaning your fridge. If you get the ice off the plate with something that could puncture the gas lines within the plate, this is not being very careful. One of my fridges was not working, and actually found a honest refrigeration guy in Tahiti. He said, yeah I could change some parts, but I don't think that's the problem. The quick connect links (that only cost a few dollars) usually go bad, so let's change them and fill up back up and run it. It worked! Paid for an hour of time, little bit of gas, and two quick connect gaskets... Still working 2.5 years later.... All for less than $100 dollar bill.
Now, if you were in Le Marin. there's a 6' 2" French guy that will tell you you need a new refrigerator and installation which cost only $3500.
Cheers,
Ken Aquarius SM2K #262 Still in Thailand -- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling
You need to be very careful when cleaning your fridge. If you get the ice off the plate with something that could puncture the gas lines within the plate, this is not being very careful. One of my fridges was not working, and actually found a honest refrigeration guy in Tahiti. He said, yeah I could change some parts, but I don't think that's the problem. The quick connect links (that only cost a few dollars) usually go bad, so let's change them and fill up back up and run it. It worked! Paid for an hour of time, little bit of gas, and two quick connect gaskets... Still working 2.5 years later.... All for less than $100 dollar bill.
Now, if you were in Le Marin. there's a 6' 2" French guy that will tell you you need a new refrigerator and installation which cost only $3500.
Cheers,
Ken Aquarius SM2K #262 Still in Thailand
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Re: Running back stays on A54
Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
Hello,
It is to be prefered to fix the backstays like David shows on his picture at the cleat or just at the same piont like the gib. As we already got a backstay we are staticaly better up when the backstay attaches as far latteral as possible. The backstay is supposed to compensate latteral forces of the staysail.
Oliver from Vela Nautica A54#39 Martinique
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Garulfo, we have a variation of Arno’s solution with a knot instead of the hook and a small block to lead the tie (black and white in the pic) back to a cleat near the cockpit.
Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Raiatea, French Polynesia Hi Arno,
Thanks for sharing your solution regarding the backstays. Will try it out. But even with this solution one need to still go out the cockpit to unhook the hanging hook.
Bill’s solution could be also working well but I’m afraid there will be too much stretch to give the mast a good support.
Regards Laurens Vos Fun@Sea A54-92
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Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Teun BAAS
Last paragraph Porter’s Email: attached is the part.
April/May 2018 it broke off completely on AMELIT; this is the replacement part I got from AMEL.
I noticed the new unit “sweating” & oxidizing rather quickly; it almost looked like 2 different metals were used. In July/August 2019, in VANUATU, checking & prepping
the boat for the trip to the SOLOMONS, my local mechanic Matthieu & I decided to remove this unit completely and replace with a plastic (PVC???) self built unit which has been doing great with no “sweating” at all.
When I asked Thierry (AMEL SAV) this was his reply:
QUOTE
To answer your question this manifold is custom made by Amel . The welding between brass fitting and copper pipe is carefully done and there is no risk of leakage.
UNQUOTE
I have also been planning to redo everything along the A50/60 concept with individual shut off valves for each downstream line.
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT A54 #128
I am stuck & bored
☹ and have been cruising on my motorcycle (March/April) all over BAJA CALIFORNIA
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August 27, 2020
16:20:07
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From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2020 12:40
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54
This is indeed a serious issue.
We had the initial bronze manifold on IBIS. Looked horrible and so when we ordered our arch from Turkey had a stainless replacement manifold constructed. About 2 years ago I changed the bronze one, with significant corrosion to the stainless
replacement. One year after replacement upon inspection in NZ I found a small pit and a leak. It was in NZ that I had the resources to build a new manifold out of plastic. I had reservations about the material (plastic vs metal) but recall from an A55 that
I believe the stock manifold is plastic on the A55. Encouraged by the chandlery in Opua I built a plastic one. It took a couple of days, a lot of measuring and 5200. I put in isolation valves. I think it is far better than the original. I’d encourage any others
who have the resources of a nearby good plumbing chandlery to think about it. One of the very cool parts of the A55 is the ability to isolate and turn of seawater to specific downstream applications. (Don’t have to turn off the refrigerator to work on the
AC pump)
I think we’re a lot safer now. I repaired the stainless manifold and keep as a spare, but would be lothe to return to it.
Keep in mind there is another smaller manifold (of which we also keep a spare) starbord of the seachest that distributes to the main engine, and then to the distribution manifold via a (formerly iffy) looking hose. That manifold could also
easily fail. Amel has replacements.
On Aug 27, 2020, at 3:38 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:
Jamie,
I built a new one from off-the-shelf bronze fittings and a short piece of reinforced hose in the middle. Two years on and no problems, and it will be much easier to repair next time as it can be taken apart in
the middle before pulling the parts out which is much easier than getting the original out.
I would also be interested if anyone else has adopted this solution and how long it has lasted.
Cheers,
Paul
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
I want to report a serious issue regarding the raw-water manifold that feeds the refrigerator, anchor wash, AC, and watermaker pumps on my A54. As I was servicing the sea chest strainer and cleaning out the clogged hoses, the nipple connection
feeding the refrigerator pump broke off from the manifold. It actually appears to have been cracked already and was essentially sucking in some air with the cooling water. You can tell that when you hear a slight gurgling sound at the discharge thru-hull -
initially I thought it was a pump problem related to insufficient cooling water through the main system strainer. Luckily I was on board at the time - if not, seawater may have poured into the engine room relying on only the automatic bilge pump to keep the
water out. If the water ingress had been more than the bilge pump could discharge, the boat might have sunk (a very scary thought!).
I removed the manifold - no easy task, as it is buried behind the hoses, wires, and the cockpit scupper. The manifold appears to be made of bronze, but there was some external corrosion evident at the joint between the refrigerator connection and the main manifold
tubing. It is likely that the corrosion is far worse inside the manifold, and that is hard to see when there is a lot of muck building up in the tubing. Very probably, the other nipples have similar corrosion issues inside.
So, I am now in the process of trying to replace the seawater manifold. I have 2 options: the first is to replace in kind, either custom built in a local fab shop or ordered through Amel; the second is to build one out of bronze fittings, pipe, and hose sections.
I am not sure if any local shops can work with bronze, but I am investigating that possibility first. I am certain that Amel had these things built specifically for the A54 and maybe the SM or even the A55 - I am not sure if it is common to all models, but
I question whether Amel could still source a replacement. The advantage to an in-kind replacement is that it would be a drop-in and also be smaller and lighter. The advantage to a manifold built from fittings is that I can install shut-off valves for each
feed circuit, allowing me to isolate if there is a problem with one of the systems and retain the other systems in operation while I service the failed system. I like that concept the best, as many times I have to work on one of the feeders, while having to
shut down everything to do it via the main in-line valve. By the way, that valve also looks suspect to me and I will be replacing it.
So, I am passing on my experience to the group as a reminder to check this manifold on a periodic basis. It is hard to see internal corrosion, but it is clear that even bronze will eventually fail. Phantom is now 13 years old, so maybe I was due for replacement.
Has anyone else had this failure, and if so, what was your best solution to replace? Has anyone attempted to source from Amel?
Thanks,
Jamie Wendell
Phantom, A54 #44
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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PLEASE CONFIRM FINAL Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.
Hi, I have requests for the exhaust sensors from the following people : Mark Pitt 1 piece Mohammad Shirloo 3 pieces Jim Anderson 1 piece I need your mailing address Bob Rossi 1 piece I need your mailing address Vladimir Sonsev 1 piece If there is anyone else who wishes this switch please let me know—I will order on Tuesday. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376
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Re: Mainsail outhaul on 54
Sorry Nick,
I understood your question wrong. I thought you want to do it without the outhaul motor - so by hand.
Best regards Stefan A 54 #119 Lady Charlyette, Aruba
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Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Craig Briggs
In an engine room fire the plastic manifold would probably hold up as well as the two large diameter plastic pipes draining the cockpit that have no seacocks. Maybe better as the manifold is full of water. As long as the fire doesn't burn your insurance agent's business card with his telephone number, you're likely ok. Cheers
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Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54
Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
This makes me wonder how plastic in such a critical place would hold up to an engine room fire? Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
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From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io Sent: 27 August 2020 21:40 To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54 This is indeed a serious issue. We had the initial bronze manifold on IBIS. Looked horrible and so when we ordered our arch from Turkey had a stainless replacement manifold constructed. About 2 years ago I changed the bronze one, with significant corrosion to the stainless replacement. One year after replacement upon inspection in NZ I found a small pit and a leak. It was in NZ that I had the resources to build a new manifold out of plastic. I had reservations about the material (plastic vs metal) but recall from an A55 that I believe the stock manifold is plastic on the A55. Encouraged by the chandlery in Opua I built a plastic one. It took a couple of days, a lot of measuring and 5200. I put in isolation valves. I think it is far better than the original. I’d encourage any others who have the resources of a nearby good plumbing chandlery to think about it. One of the very cool parts of the A55 is the ability to isolate and turn of seawater to specific downstream applications. (Don’t have to turn off the refrigerator to work on the AC pump) I think we’re a lot safer now. I repaired the stainless manifold and keep as a spare, but would be lothe to return to it. Keep in mind there is another smaller manifold (of which we also keep a spare) starbord of the seachest that distributes to the main engine, and then to the distribution manifold via a (formerly iffy) looking hose. That manifold could also easily fail. Amel has replacements.
On Aug 27, 2020, at 3:38 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:
Jamie, I built a new one from off-the-shelf bronze fittings and a short piece of reinforced hose in the middle. Two years on and no problems, and it will be much easier to repair next time as it can be taken apart in the middle before pulling the parts out which is much easier than getting the original out. I would also be interested if anyone else has adopted this solution and how long it has lasted. Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada I want to report a serious issue regarding the raw-water manifold that feeds the refrigerator, anchor wash, AC, and watermaker pumps on my A54. As I was servicing the sea chest strainer and cleaning out the clogged hoses, the nipple connection feeding the refrigerator pump broke off from the manifold. It actually appears to have been cracked already and was essentially sucking in some air with the cooling water. You can tell that when you hear a slight gurgling sound at the discharge thru-hull - initially I thought it was a pump problem related to insufficient cooling water through the main system strainer. Luckily I was on board at the time - if not, seawater may have poured into the engine room relying on only the automatic bilge pump to keep the water out. If the water ingress had been more than the bilge pump could discharge, the boat might have sunk (a very scary thought!).
I removed the manifold - no easy task, as it is buried behind the hoses, wires, and the cockpit scupper. The manifold appears to be made of bronze, but there was some external corrosion evident at the joint between the refrigerator connection and the main manifold tubing. It is likely that the corrosion is far worse inside the manifold, and that is hard to see when there is a lot of muck building up in the tubing. Very probably, the other nipples have similar corrosion issues inside.
So, I am now in the process of trying to replace the seawater manifold. I have 2 options: the first is to replace in kind, either custom built in a local fab shop or ordered through Amel; the second is to build one out of bronze fittings, pipe, and hose sections. I am not sure if any local shops can work with bronze, but I am investigating that possibility first. I am certain that Amel had these things built specifically for the A54 and maybe the SM or even the A55 - I am not sure if it is common to all models, but I question whether Amel could still source a replacement. The advantage to an in-kind replacement is that it would be a drop-in and also be smaller and lighter. The advantage to a manifold built from fittings is that I can install shut-off valves for each feed circuit, allowing me to isolate if there is a problem with one of the systems and retain the other systems in operation while I service the failed system. I like that concept the best, as many times I have to work on one of the feeders, while having to shut down everything to do it via the main in-line valve. By the way, that valve also looks suspect to me and I will be replacing it.
So, I am passing on my experience to the group as a reminder to check this manifold on a periodic basis. It is hard to see internal corrosion, but it is clear that even bronze will eventually fail. Phantom is now 13 years old, so maybe I was due for replacement. Has anyone else had this failure, and if so, what was your best solution to replace? Has anyone attempted to source from Amel?
Thanks, Jamie Wendell Phantom, A54 #44 -- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
-- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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