Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hard deposits on 8-month old water heater heating unit

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

You will find many conflicting opinions on this subject. 

I believe that you should never run a watermaker at pressure above the Filmtec rating, but more importantly, never above the production rating. For instance, if your watermaker is rated at 160 because the two membranes are rated at 80 liters/hour, never run it producing more than 160. Check the flow glass and adjust the pressure to produce 160 even if the needle is below the green. Too much flow and/or pressure will fracture membranes. 

Now, recycling product water: I have never done this, but the physics of RO membranes tells me that it will likely require less pressure to get 160 liters/hour. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Jun 18, 2017 6:38 AM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I am pretty sure that the pressure needs to be lowered considerably  when processing fresh water to avoid damage to the membranes.  Perhaps Bill or someone else can clarify.


James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Jun 18, 2017, at 3:48 AM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Bill Kinney,


I did not know you could safely run fresh water through the desalinator... Good to know.

The first year we cruised we had very good Deka lead acid batteries.  But there were 78 caps to check... and like you said, one had to go look for distilled water... which we did in Port Washington, NY... what a drag... so at the end of the year, we threw them away and went with sealed AGMs.  It's been a bit over two years, and so far, so good... and there are no caps to check.

Cheers,


Peregrinus
SM2K No. 350 (2002)
At anchor, Tymnos —now called Bozburun



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Seeking an Amel Super Maramu

John Clark
 

Hi Chris,
   Congrats on Lena!   My SM came with a mixed bag of electronics that don't interact with each other.  Garmin chart plotter/AIS, Furuno radar and GPS.  The previous owner installed a new Raymarine Evo autopilot and control head which is connected to none of the above.  
I am looking at the Raymarine es78 multifunction display/chart plotter and a Raymarine Quantum radar.  The new Raymarine geear all talks to each other and can link up using built in wifi.  Makes installation so easy I can do it.  ;)

Here in the States you can buy a package deal including both the radar and es78 for $2200 USD.  

This would allow newest radar tech, chart plotter and autopilot to be combined on one screen.  The AIS would need to use a separate connection unless I got the Raymarine AIS but that is still $600...

Anyway new digital radar units use way less power any should be ok.  My old Furuno 1623 works fine and shows targets and weather reliably and consistent with observations.  New gear I expect to be better but if I were cash strapped the Furuno is fine.


Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie. (fmr Vent de Soleil)
Charleston, SC


On Jun 18, 2017 9:38 AM, "rettirc@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Once I get the aircon working, (amongst other things) I need to replace the Raymarine SL80c plotters' Radome/radar antenna. I need advice whether to search for a 2 or 4kw radar? (18 or 24") scanner.  Is it really worth going for the bigger unit?  Pros/cons, what is standard?  

I have used radar extensively in the past but much larger units.  Is a 2kw unit sufficient?  Is it cluttered with all of the rigging?

Anther item on the list is trying to find a new plug for the handset on the SSB, it is a Furuno 1550.  It is a 6 pin plug, any suggestions for sources?

There is a job list a mile long and growing, trying to source as much as l can before we leave Australia. 
Chris



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Seeking an Amel Super Maramu

rettirc@...
 

Once I get the aircon working, (amongst other things) I need to replace the Raymarine SL80c plotters' Radome/radar antenna. I need advice whether to search for a 2 or 4kw radar? (18 or 24") scanner.  Is it really worth going for the bigger unit?  Pros/cons, what is standard?  
I have used radar extensively in the past but much larger units.  Is a 2kw unit sufficient?  Is it cluttered with all of the rigging?

Anther item on the list is trying to find a new plug for the handset on the SSB, it is a Furuno 1550.  It is a 6 pin plug, any suggestions for sources?

There is a job list a mile long and growing, trying to source as much as l can before we leave Australia. 
Chris


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hard deposits on 8-month old water heater heating unit

James Alton
 

I am pretty sure that the pressure needs to be lowered considerably  when processing fresh water to avoid damage to the membranes.  Perhaps Bill or someone else can clarify.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Jun 18, 2017, at 3:48 AM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bill Kinney,


I did not know you could safely run fresh water through the desalinator... Good to know.

The first year we cruised we had very good Deka lead acid batteries.  But there were 78 caps to check... and like you said, one had to go look for distilled water... which we did in Port Washington, NY... what a drag... so at the end of the year, we threw them away and went with sealed AGMs.  It's been a bit over two years, and so far, so good... and there are no caps to check.

Cheers,


Peregrinus
SM2K No. 350 (2002)
At anchor, Tymnos —now called Bozburun



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

eric freedman
 

I am not on board till Thursday afternoon.

If you drop me a note then I will dig out my spare diodes and also try the start stop button thing.

The diodes are very beefy Motorola diodes and are not prone to burning up.

 

If you hold down the stop button it activated the stop solenoid with the ground coming from the Valeo solenoid and through one of the diodes. The same connection activates the starter motor when you try to start the engine, again with a diode in the path . The reason for the diode  is if they were not there the power would go to both the stop solenoid and starter motor solenoid.

 

I believe holding down the stoop button and trying to start the engine will crank the engine but it will not start due to no fuel getting past the stop solenoid.

 

I believe the previous owner had a problem or modified the wiring thus the stop cable.—or there is a problem with the wiring

If there is a problem with the wiring—good luck—I am an EE and it took me a week to rewire the engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2017 2:28 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

 

 

Does anyone have the part number or specs or source for the diodes that are used with the Yanmar?  I don't plan to spend the $300+ for a spare fuel cut solenoid and I'm told that failure is extremely rare for these but the diodes sound like something to have. I'm also thinking the CorrosionX method might work on a bad solenoid.

 

Related--On page 23 of the Operation Manual for the 4JH3's , Yanmar warns that "When the engine..has not been used for a long period of time perform cranking before starting to distribute oil to all parts.  Using an engine which has been stored for a long period of time without the cranking procedure may result in engine seizure."  They then instruct "While pushing the stop button, turn the key to the START position and hold it....Do not take your hand off the button.  Continue cranking the engine for about 5 seconds, checking for abnormal sounds.

 

This does not work with our boats.  I think it is related to the special wiring of our isolated engines.  The engine starts if you crank it while holding the red stop button in.  My previous owner had installed a manual fuel cutoff cable that goes to the red stop lever on the Yanmar.  The spring loaded pull (red) is on the cockpit floor under the helm chair next to the starboard chair support and  the cable is out of the way passing over the shaft brake cylinder.  Its a stretch, but when our engine has not been used for more than 2 weeks (e.g. on the hard) It allows me to perform the procedure. Of course you can do the same thing with 2 people but it is useful.  We had a problem with the solenoid not shutting down the engine and it came in handy.  The problem was solved by spraying CorrosionX into the button crevice while holding the red button vertically.  

 

BTW--From the CorrosionX site https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4z8QMgTEA4

CorrosionX is now also marketing a grease.

 

Bob, KAIMI SM429

Rovinj, Croatia--No TowboatUS here

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Seeking an Amel Super Maramu

eric freedman
 

Chris,

The Calpeda pump is a strong pump. I suspect the capacitor.

When the AC is on and you put a screwdriver into the pump to turn it do you feel a small magnetic resistance?

Just remove the 4 screws from the pump junction box and change the capacitor. On My pump two terminals of the capacitor plug directly into the pump so you need to get a similar capacitor.

Make sure you short the capacitor to housing when the power is off. The charge in that capacitor will knock you on your seat.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 8:09 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Seeking an Amel Super Maramu

 

 

That is good advice. 

 

Funny enough the AC did not work. All units in the boat turned on, but were cutting out due to high pressure, checked the calpeda pump, it looked quite new, but was not running. 

It does turn freely, I think it is a voltage issue to pump, maybe a beaker somewhere?  Capacitor?  

I was doing a pre purchase inspection, not troubleshooting. I am sure it shall be an easy fix. 

Probably one of the first jobs when we get to the boat mid to late July.  

We shall get an apartment for a week or two and transition onboard. 

 

Chris 


On 18 Jun 2017, at 6:43 AM, Dennis Johns sbmesasailor@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi 

 

Does Lena S have air conditioning?  If so, make sure it's functioning well.  If not, I strongly recommend you consider a portable a/c.  If you plan to spend several months in Phuket working on your boat, you are going to want some escape from the weather.  We had Libertad in Phuket for two months and while we got a lot done on her I've never been more miserable doing projects.

 

Dennis Johns

s/v Libertad

Maramu #121

Currently en route to Golfito, CR


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

eric freedman
 

DUANE
THE WHOLE ENGINE IS 12 VOLTS !!!!!

Where did you measure 24 VOLTS???

Is there one or two wires on the solenoid?

I am not on the boat till Thursday afternoon and would like to take a look at my engine before you order anything.

Where are you located?

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 5:44 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

 

 

Eric, thanks for that part number.  I've been looking for it for several hours.

 

We  found the solenoid (thanks!) and took off the wire to it.  Pressing the stop button sends 24 volts to the solenoid, so it must be the solenoid.  We also confirmed there is fuel to the fuel pump.  (Thanks to Lee, one the current marina residents).  

 

I'll order the part and hopefully that will be the solution.

 

Many thanks!

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hard deposits on 8-month old water heater heating unit

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi

I have never used distilled water in any of my batteries. Boat, car or tractor. I don't use treated town water. Rain water, farm stream water and on the boat watermaker water. My lead acid batteries
In all cases last as long or better than anyone else. Tractor starting batteries, around 5 years
My 12, 6 volt house batteries on Ocean Pearl lasted 8 years and only died when I left her for three weeks on mooring with solar panels as the only charge and accidentally left the freezer on with the lid open. The fridge was running too. I usually leave the fridge on as a load. The poor batteries, three weeks seriously drained. Had that not happened I am sure they had years left.
As I said already, I would never use treated town water.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On 18 Jun 2017 07:48, "svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill Kinney,


I did not know you could safely run fresh water through the desalinator... Good to know.

The first year we cruised we had very good Deka lead acid batteries.  But there were 78 caps to check... and like you said, one had to go look for distilled water... which we did in Port Washington, NY... what a drag... so at the end of the year, we threw them away and went with sealed AGMs.  It's been a bit over two years, and so far, so good... and there are no caps to check.

Cheers,


Peregrinus
SM2K No. 350 (2002)
At anchor, Tymnos —now called Bozburun


Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

On the initial post Duane mentions a 10-minute cool-off period after a long motoring.

Following advice I recall from this group, from years ago, we do a 5-minute cool-off period.

What are people's thoughts on this?

Cheerio,


Peregrinus
SM2K No. 350
At anchor, ancient Tymnos


Re: Hard deposits on 8-month old water heater heating unit

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Bill Kinney,

I did not know you could safely run fresh water through the desalinator... Good to know.

The first year we cruised we had very good Deka lead acid batteries.  But there were 78 caps to check... and like you said, one had to go look for distilled water... which we did in Port Washington, NY... what a drag... so at the end of the year, we threw them away and went with sealed AGMs.  It's been a bit over two years, and so far, so good... and there are no caps to check.

Cheers,


Peregrinus
SM2K No. 350 (2002)
At anchor, Tymnos —now called Bozburun


Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

rossirossix4
 

Does anyone have the part number or specs or source for the diodes that are used with the Yanmar?  I don't plan to spend the $300+ for a spare fuel cut solenoid and I'm told that failure is extremely rare for these but the diodes sound like something to have. I'm also thinking the CorrosionX method might work on a bad solenoid.

Related--On page 23 of the Operation Manual for the 4JH3's , Yanmar warns that "When the engine..has not been used for a long period of time perform cranking before starting to distribute oil to all parts.  Using an engine which has been stored for a long period of time without the cranking procedure may result in engine seizure."  They then instruct "While pushing the stop button, turn the key to the START position and hold it....Do not take your hand off the button.  Continue cranking the engine for about 5 seconds, checking for abnormal sounds.

This does not work with our boats.  I think it is related to the special wiring of our isolated engines.  The engine starts if you crank it while holding the red stop button in.  My previous owner had installed a manual fuel cutoff cable that goes to the red stop lever on the Yanmar.  The spring loaded pull (red) is on the cockpit floor under the helm chair next to the starboard chair support and  the cable is out of the way passing over the shaft brake cylinder.  Its a stretch, but when our engine has not been used for more than 2 weeks (e.g. on the hard) It allows me to perform the procedure. Of course you can do the same thing with 2 people but it is useful.  We had a problem with the solenoid not shutting down the engine and it came in handy.  The problem was solved by spraying CorrosionX into the button crevice while holding the red button vertically.  

BTW--From the CorrosionX site https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4z8QMgTEA4
CorrosionX is now also marketing a grease.

Bob, KAIMI SM429
Rovinj, Croatia--No TowboatUS here

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Seeking an Amel Super Maramu

Chris Shiels <rettirc@...>
 

That is good advice. 

Funny enough the AC did not work. All units in the boat turned on, but were cutting out due to high pressure, checked the calpeda pump, it looked quite new, but was not running. 
It does turn freely, I think it is a voltage issue to pump, maybe a beaker somewhere?  Capacitor?  
I was doing a pre purchase inspection, not troubleshooting. I am sure it shall be an easy fix. 
Probably one of the first jobs when we get to the boat mid to late July.  
We shall get an apartment for a week or two and transition onboard. 

Chris 

On 18 Jun 2017, at 6:43 AM, Dennis Johns sbmesasailor@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi 

Does Lena S have air conditioning?  If so, make sure it's functioning well.  If not, I strongly recommend you consider a portable a/c.  If you plan to spend several months in Phuket working on your boat, you are going to want some escape from the weather.  We had Libertad in Phuket for two months and while we got a lot done on her I've never been more miserable doing projects.

Dennis Johns
s/v Libertad
Maramu #121
Currently en route to Golfito, CR


Re: Seeking an Amel Super Maramu

sbmesasailor
 

Hi 

Does Lena S have air conditioning?  If so, make sure it's functioning well.  If not, I strongly recommend you consider a portable a/c.  If you plan to spend several months in Phuket working on your boat, you are going to want some escape from the weather.  We had Libertad in Phuket for two months and while we got a lot done on her I've never been more miserable doing projects.

Dennis Johns
s/v Libertad
Maramu #121
Currently en route to Golfito, CR


Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

Duane Siegfri
 

Eric, thanks for that part number.  I've been looking for it for several hours.

We  found the solenoid (thanks!) and took off the wire to it.  Pressing the stop button sends 24 volts to the solenoid, so it must be the solenoid.  We also confirmed there is fuel to the fuel pump.  (Thanks to Lee, one the current marina residents).  

I'll order the part and hopefully that will be the solution.

Many thanks!
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

eric freedman
 

Careful when tapping with a mallet around the injector pump it is a $3000+ part.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 4:35 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

 

 

Sorry part # 119171-67200

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 4:30 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

 

 

I believe the solenoid id part number 11971-67200 and is about $325-

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 4:20 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

 

 

I agree with Bill. The fact you have fuel to the engine fuel filter and not at the injector points to a stop solenoid issue. As a short-term fix, try tapping it gently with hammer to see if you can get the spring to work. Else, it is a cheap fix and a good part to have as a spare in your parts inventory.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising – St Thomas USVI

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 11:58 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

 

 

Duane,

 

Don't worry about posting here...  If you have the problem, odds are somebody else has too!

 

The first place I would go on your problem is a mechanically sticking stop solenoid.  It would give all the symptoms you describe, especially the rough running before it shut down would indicate that it wasn't completely stopping fuel flow as it should.  Not restarting means that the spring isn't retracting it to the "run" position.

 

I had a similar problem with my Onan, and a bit of wiggling and CorrosionX restored it to normal operation.

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Highlands, NJ



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailor63109@...> wrote :

Am I posting too many problems?  Man, it seems like it to me!

 

After 38 hours of motoring we dropped anchor, let the engine cool down for 10 minutes, then hit the stop button.  The engine didn't stop right away.  I had to hold the stop button down for maybe 10 to 15 seconds to stop it.  That had never happened before.  During that time the engine sounded unusual, like some cylinders were not firing.

 

Then the next morning the engine would not start.  The starter ran fine, and the engine turned over but would not fire.  I started checking assuming a fuel problem.  I switched the dual Racor over to the other filter, still no start.  I checked the main fuel filter bleed screw to see if there was fuel in the filter and there was plenty.  I then pulled one of the injector pipes off the injector and turned the engine over, no fuel.  I then replaced the engine main fuel filter, still no start.  It seems fuel is not getting to the cylinders, but there is no obstruction in the fuel path, as evidenced by the ease of purging air from the fuel filter.

 

It seems to me that it must be the stop solenoid (I assume that's what the stop button actuates), but I'm not sure where that is on the engine (not much of a mechanic am I?).  The fuel pump appears to be engine driven, not electrical.  I will post a few photos of that side of the engine in the folder "Wanderer".






If it had something to do with the "stop solenoid" my understanding is that the fuel is always on unless the stop solenoid interrupts the flow.  It could be failing based on the difficulty in stopping the engine, but why now will it not start?  Did it fail in the "fuel off" position?

The starter operates normally.

 

MY OTHER PROBLEM:  I've cranked the engine enough that I'm worried the water lift muffler might be full.  The muffler is between the engine and the fuel tank.  The drain is toward the stern and I can't get my hand/arm down there to remove the cap (the exhaust hose takes up most of the space).  It looks like I'll have to remove the exhaust hose to get to it.  Has anyone found a clever way to do this?  It looks like the easiest way would be to remove the exhaust elbow and run a small diameter hose down the exhaust hose to the muffler and pump from there.

 

We had TowboatUS bring us in the last few miles to the marina, if not for the insurance it would have been a $780 tow!  Worse than that we would have been in the Bahamas just a few days ago!

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477

Currently in Brunswick, GA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

eric freedman
 

Sorry part # 119171-67200

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 4:30 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

 

 

I believe the solenoid id part number 11971-67200 and is about $325-

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 4:20 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

 

 

I agree with Bill. The fact you have fuel to the engine fuel filter and not at the injector points to a stop solenoid issue. As a short-term fix, try tapping it gently with hammer to see if you can get the spring to work. Else, it is a cheap fix and a good part to have as a spare in your parts inventory.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising – St Thomas USVI

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 11:58 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

 

 

Duane,

 

Don't worry about posting here...  If you have the problem, odds are somebody else has too!

 

The first place I would go on your problem is a mechanically sticking stop solenoid.  It would give all the symptoms you describe, especially the rough running before it shut down would indicate that it wasn't completely stopping fuel flow as it should.  Not restarting means that the spring isn't retracting it to the "run" position.

 

I had a similar problem with my Onan, and a bit of wiggling and CorrosionX restored it to normal operation.

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Highlands, NJ



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailor63109@...> wrote :

Am I posting too many problems?  Man, it seems like it to me!

 

After 38 hours of motoring we dropped anchor, let the engine cool down for 10 minutes, then hit the stop button.  The engine didn't stop right away.  I had to hold the stop button down for maybe 10 to 15 seconds to stop it.  That had never happened before.  During that time the engine sounded unusual, like some cylinders were not firing.

 

Then the next morning the engine would not start.  The starter ran fine, and the engine turned over but would not fire.  I started checking assuming a fuel problem.  I switched the dual Racor over to the other filter, still no start.  I checked the main fuel filter bleed screw to see if there was fuel in the filter and there was plenty.  I then pulled one of the injector pipes off the injector and turned the engine over, no fuel.  I then replaced the engine main fuel filter, still no start.  It seems fuel is not getting to the cylinders, but there is no obstruction in the fuel path, as evidenced by the ease of purging air from the fuel filter.

 

It seems to me that it must be the stop solenoid (I assume that's what the stop button actuates), but I'm not sure where that is on the engine (not much of a mechanic am I?).  The fuel pump appears to be engine driven, not electrical.  I will post a few photos of that side of the engine in the folder "Wanderer".





If it had something to do with the "stop solenoid" my understanding is that the fuel is always on unless the stop solenoid interrupts the flow.  It could be failing based on the difficulty in stopping the engine, but why now will it not start?  Did it fail in the "fuel off" position?

The starter operates normally.

 

MY OTHER PROBLEM:  I've cranked the engine enough that I'm worried the water lift muffler might be full.  The muffler is between the engine and the fuel tank.  The drain is toward the stern and I can't get my hand/arm down there to remove the cap (the exhaust hose takes up most of the space).  It looks like I'll have to remove the exhaust hose to get to it.  Has anyone found a clever way to do this?  It looks like the easiest way would be to remove the exhaust elbow and run a small diameter hose down the exhaust hose to the muffler and pump from there.

 

We had TowboatUS bring us in the last few miles to the marina, if not for the insurance it would have been a $780 tow!  Worse than that we would have been in the Bahamas just a few days ago!

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477

Currently in Brunswick, GA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

eric freedman
 

I believe the solenoid id part number 11971-67200 and is about $325-

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 4:20 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

 

 

I agree with Bill. The fact you have fuel to the engine fuel filter and not at the injector points to a stop solenoid issue. As a short-term fix, try tapping it gently with hammer to see if you can get the spring to work. Else, it is a cheap fix and a good part to have as a spare in your parts inventory.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising – St Thomas USVI

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 11:58 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

 

 

Duane,

 

Don't worry about posting here...  If you have the problem, odds are somebody else has too!

 

The first place I would go on your problem is a mechanically sticking stop solenoid.  It would give all the symptoms you describe, especially the rough running before it shut down would indicate that it wasn't completely stopping fuel flow as it should.  Not restarting means that the spring isn't retracting it to the "run" position.

 

I had a similar problem with my Onan, and a bit of wiggling and CorrosionX restored it to normal operation.

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Highlands, NJ



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailor63109@...> wrote :

Am I posting too many problems?  Man, it seems like it to me!

 

After 38 hours of motoring we dropped anchor, let the engine cool down for 10 minutes, then hit the stop button.  The engine didn't stop right away.  I had to hold the stop button down for maybe 10 to 15 seconds to stop it.  That had never happened before.  During that time the engine sounded unusual, like some cylinders were not firing.

 

Then the next morning the engine would not start.  The starter ran fine, and the engine turned over but would not fire.  I started checking assuming a fuel problem.  I switched the dual Racor over to the other filter, still no start.  I checked the main fuel filter bleed screw to see if there was fuel in the filter and there was plenty.  I then pulled one of the injector pipes off the injector and turned the engine over, no fuel.  I then replaced the engine main fuel filter, still no start.  It seems fuel is not getting to the cylinders, but there is no obstruction in the fuel path, as evidenced by the ease of purging air from the fuel filter.

 

It seems to me that it must be the stop solenoid (I assume that's what the stop button actuates), but I'm not sure where that is on the engine (not much of a mechanic am I?).  The fuel pump appears to be engine driven, not electrical.  I will post a few photos of that side of the engine in the folder "Wanderer".




If it had something to do with the "stop solenoid" my understanding is that the fuel is always on unless the stop solenoid interrupts the flow.  It could be failing based on the difficulty in stopping the engine, but why now will it not start?  Did it fail in the "fuel off" position?

The starter operates normally.

 

MY OTHER PROBLEM:  I've cranked the engine enough that I'm worried the water lift muffler might be full.  The muffler is between the engine and the fuel tank.  The drain is toward the stern and I can't get my hand/arm down there to remove the cap (the exhaust hose takes up most of the space).  It looks like I'll have to remove the exhaust hose to get to it.  Has anyone found a clever way to do this?  It looks like the easiest way would be to remove the exhaust elbow and run a small diameter hose down the exhaust hose to the muffler and pump from there.

 

We had TowboatUS bring us in the last few miles to the marina, if not for the insurance it would have been a $780 tow!  Worse than that we would have been in the Bahamas just a few days ago!

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477

Currently in Brunswick, GA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

Mark Erdos
 

I agree with Bill. The fact you have fuel to the engine fuel filter and not at the injector points to a stop solenoid issue. As a short-term fix, try tapping it gently with hammer to see if you can get the spring to work. Else, it is a cheap fix and a good part to have as a spare in your parts inventory.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising – St Thomas USVI

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 11:58 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

 

 

Duane,

 

Don't worry about posting here...  If you have the problem, odds are somebody else has too!

 

The first place I would go on your problem is a mechanically sticking stop solenoid.  It would give all the symptoms you describe, especially the rough running before it shut down would indicate that it wasn't completely stopping fuel flow as it should.  Not restarting means that the spring isn't retracting it to the "run" position.

 

I had a similar problem with my Onan, and a bit of wiggling and CorrosionX restored it to normal operation.

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Highlands, NJ



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Am I posting too many problems?  Man, it seems like it to me!

 

After 38 hours of motoring we dropped anchor, let the engine cool down for 10 minutes, then hit the stop button.  The engine didn't stop right away.  I had to hold the stop button down for maybe 10 to 15 seconds to stop it.  That had never happened before.  During that time the engine sounded unusual, like some cylinders were not firing.

 

Then the next morning the engine would not start.  The starter ran fine, and the engine turned over but would not fire.  I started checking assuming a fuel problem.  I switched the dual Racor over to the other filter, still no start.  I checked the main fuel filter bleed screw to see if there was fuel in the filter and there was plenty.  I then pulled one of the injector pipes off the injector and turned the engine over, no fuel.  I then replaced the engine main fuel filter, still no start.  It seems fuel is not getting to the cylinders, but there is no obstruction in the fuel path, as evidenced by the ease of purging air from the fuel filter.

 

It seems to me that it must be the stop solenoid (I assume that's what the stop button actuates), but I'm not sure where that is on the engine (not much of a mechanic am I?).  The fuel pump appears to be engine driven, not electrical.  I will post a few photos of that side of the engine in the folder "Wanderer".



If it had something to do with the "stop solenoid" my understanding is that the fuel is always on unless the stop solenoid interrupts the flow.  It could be failing based on the difficulty in stopping the engine, but why now will it not start?  Did it fail in the "fuel off" position?

The starter operates normally.

 

MY OTHER PROBLEM:  I've cranked the engine enough that I'm worried the water lift muffler might be full.  The muffler is between the engine and the fuel tank.  The drain is toward the stern and I can't get my hand/arm down there to remove the cap (the exhaust hose takes up most of the space).  It looks like I'll have to remove the exhaust hose to get to it.  Has anyone found a clever way to do this?  It looks like the easiest way would be to remove the exhaust elbow and run a small diameter hose down the exhaust hose to the muffler and pump from there.

 

We had TowboatUS bring us in the last few miles to the marina, if not for the insurance it would have been a $780 tow!  Worse than that we would have been in the Bahamas just a few days ago!

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477

Currently in Brunswick, GA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

Mark Erdos
 

I agree with Bill. The fact you have fuel to the engine fuel filter and not at the injector points to a stop solenoid issue. As a short-term fix, try tapping it gently with hammer to see if you can get the spring to work. Else, it is a cheap fix and a good part to have as a spare in your parts inventory.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising – St Thomas USVI

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 11:58 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: No Stop, then No Start on Yanmar 4JH3-HTE

 

 

Duane,

 

Don't worry about posting here...  If you have the problem, odds are somebody else has too!

 

The first place I would go on your problem is a mechanically sticking stop solenoid.  It would give all the symptoms you describe, especially the rough running before it shut down would indicate that it wasn't completely stopping fuel flow as it should.  Not restarting means that the spring isn't retracting it to the "run" position.

 

I had a similar problem with my Onan, and a bit of wiggling and CorrosionX restored it to normal operation.

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Highlands, NJ



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Am I posting too many problems?  Man, it seems like it to me!

 

After 38 hours of motoring we dropped anchor, let the engine cool down for 10 minutes, then hit the stop button.  The engine didn't stop right away.  I had to hold the stop button down for maybe 10 to 15 seconds to stop it.  That had never happened before.  During that time the engine sounded unusual, like some cylinders were not firing.

 

Then the next morning the engine would not start.  The starter ran fine, and the engine turned over but would not fire.  I started checking assuming a fuel problem.  I switched the dual Racor over to the other filter, still no start.  I checked the main fuel filter bleed screw to see if there was fuel in the filter and there was plenty.  I then pulled one of the injector pipes off the injector and turned the engine over, no fuel.  I then replaced the engine main fuel filter, still no start.  It seems fuel is not getting to the cylinders, but there is no obstruction in the fuel path, as evidenced by the ease of purging air from the fuel filter.

 

It seems to me that it must be the stop solenoid (I assume that's what the stop button actuates), but I'm not sure where that is on the engine (not much of a mechanic am I?).  The fuel pump appears to be engine driven, not electrical.  I will post a few photos of that side of the engine in the folder "Wanderer".



If it had something to do with the "stop solenoid" my understanding is that the fuel is always on unless the stop solenoid interrupts the flow.  It could be failing based on the difficulty in stopping the engine, but why now will it not start?  Did it fail in the "fuel off" position?

The starter operates normally.

 

MY OTHER PROBLEM:  I've cranked the engine enough that I'm worried the water lift muffler might be full.  The muffler is between the engine and the fuel tank.  The drain is toward the stern and I can't get my hand/arm down there to remove the cap (the exhaust hose takes up most of the space).  It looks like I'll have to remove the exhaust hose to get to it.  Has anyone found a clever way to do this?  It looks like the easiest way would be to remove the exhaust elbow and run a small diameter hose down the exhaust hose to the muffler and pump from there.

 

We had TowboatUS bring us in the last few miles to the marina, if not for the insurance it would have been a $780 tow!  Worse than that we would have been in the Bahamas just a few days ago!

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477

Currently in Brunswick, GA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Idon't know why this did not go through 4jh3 injector pump question

eric freedman
 

Sorry FUEL STOP SOLENOID

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 3:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Idon't know why this did not go through 4jh3 injector pump question

 

 

Duane,
I assume  you have a Yanmar 4jh engine. If so, the fuel stop solenoid is on the injector pump on the left side as you look at the engine, the other thing it could be is a bad diode in the feed to the stop solenoid. It is in a wire going to the stop solenoid and is heat shrunk into the wire, It is a Motorola diode.

 

 

With respect to the drain, I believe the problem of over cranking is getting water into the cylinders.

If you remove the exhaust elbow, (Easier than the hose off) you can see if the hose is full of water.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376