Date   
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Charger for starter battery

amelforme
 

Ben, how long does it take to flatten your starting battery? I have had occasion to visit and assess  Amel Super Maramus that would be offered for sale that had been left unattended for three months and sometimes more. On only one of these marketing evaluation inspections did I find the starting battery to be unable to start the engine and/or generator, and that boat had a modified/compromised electrical system. I would suggest that you have a bad battery, a voltage leak and maybe both if the discharge period is less than a month. Remember, even brand new batteries can have manufacturing defects that cause them to fail at an early age.

 

Have Fun With Your Amel!

 

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2017 10:17 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Charger for starter battery

 

 

One of the shortcomings of my boat as there is no shore power charger for starter battery.  If boat sits starter battery invariable goes down.  Has anyone rigged a small charger to address this?  

 

Ben Driver

La Bella Vita

SM 347

Currently Martinique f

 

 

AMEL Rubber Rails NEW 2 x 16.0m

olaf_renos@...
 

I have for selling the original AMEL Rubber rails for Super Maramu 2000 or Santorin.

2 x 16m.

Quite NEW.

AMEL sell them for 26.65 € / meter + Tax. That is € 852.8 + TAX.

 

I will sell them for € 550.


I'm at the moment in Martinique. I could delivery the rails between Grenada and Jamaica.



Charger for starter battery

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

One of the shortcomings of my boat as there is no shore power charger for starter battery.  If boat sits starter battery invariable goes down.  Has anyone rigged a small charger to address this?  


Ben Driver

La Bella Vita

SM 347

Currently Martinique f



Replacing Vetus Coupling Bolts

rossirossix4
 

We had 1 of 4 bolts that clamp the Vetus coupler together shear a while back and are replacing all 4 along with the 4 rubber bushings which are intact but showing wear, distortion, and cracking.  The Yanmar was easy to slide back on the frame but there is not space between the C drive flange and the Vetus nor the transmission flange and the transmission to insert an original length bolt.  The Vetus bushings replacements ($25USD/4) are a regular, say 5 year replacement item in our opinion BUT is seems that to replace the bolt as it was originally would involve removing the flange of the C drive. Earlier, Danny (with a Volvo engine) posted that by using a bolt with both ends threaded the bolt could be replaced without removing the flange from the C drive or the flange from the transmission.  Are we missing something or do you need to use bolts with both ends threaded and nuts on each end?

Bob, KAIMI SM 429 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Stiff steering Caramelle 385

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Patrick,

Olivier gives you great advice.

I have experienced a piece of 12mm line between the top of the rudder and the hull. It was a tight fit.

When Olivier says, "check without the drives connected..." be sure to check without an electrical or mechanical connection. The clutch inside a Raymarine drive can burn up and sometimes partially seize. If you find this is the problem, be sure to check that the voltage is 12VDC going to the clutch, not 24VDC. There will be a method of changing clutch voltage on the Raymarine course computer. Raymarine makes 24VDC Drives, but all of them have a 12VDC clutch.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Jan 5, 2017 4:58 AM, "Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello Patrick,

Did you check the rudder blade? Nothing caught between the rudder and the hull?

In order to remove the wheel: 
-undo the nut until its backside is flat with the end of the shaft (but leave it on the shaft)
-while someone is pulling the wheel backwards with two hands, knock the nut with a 500g (half pound) steel hammer (not a toy...), you need to be two people

Did you check the system without the pilot drives connected, the rotary one and/or the ram in the aft cabin?

Can you check the terminals of the rack-and-pinion system, at the end of the square tubes, on portside? Are they loose?
Although rare, the bearings of the wheel's shaft could be stuck.

Lastly, you could try and disconnect the cables at the rudder quadrant to check if the cables are still stiff or if you can easily turn the rudder shaft.
If the cables are still stiff, you may need a new set of rack and pinion with cables (still available at AMEL's).
If the rudder alone is stiff, you should first try and replace and grease the packing stuff in the stuffing box. If no improvement, this may mean that the intermediate nylon bushing has expanded and prevents rotation of the shaft. You could then remove both screws that hold the bushing together with the stainless steel U-shaped bracket (the bushing, if stuck with the shaft, will then turn free in its bracket).
If the rudder blade is still stiff...the shaft may be bent, but this happens only in case of a big knock (grounding, or heavy anchor chain from another bo at caught in the rudder - you will see marks on the rudder...)

Bon courage!!!

Olivier



On Wednesday, January 4, 2017 11:45 PM, "pjn.mccallin@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 
I had hoped not to seek further advice but events have conspired against me!

 Maude is chasing down a new motor for me so my bow thruster issue is on the mend so to speak!
Horwever on leaving Antigua after 9 nights at anchor the steering was very stiff. I did search the whole system from the rudder quadrant to the back of the wheel. By now there was a squeak from behind the wheel and it sounded as though it was coming from the "spacer"behind the wheel.
I did try and remove the wheel by driving two wedges behind but to no avail, however I did give the nut a thump and the squeak seems to have almost disappeared.well almost!
I wonder is there a bearing involved at the wheel end, there certainly is on the chain socket end. The cables seem to move freely I don't think there is a problem in the worm drive push/pull arms. 
Of course this still leaves the problem of removing the wheel the distance between it and the spacer would not allow me to insert a puller foot, so I am stumped!
Any one had a similar experience?, I know that Olivier B changed the steering cables when the yacht was new but I did not watch him actually do it shame on me.
Pearls of wisdom please Patrick.



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Stiff steering Caramelle 385

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Patrick,

Did you check the rudder blade? Nothing caught between the rudder and the hull?

In order to remove the wheel: 
-undo the nut until its backside is flat with the end of the shaft (but leave it on the shaft)
-while someone is pulling the wheel backwards with two hands, knock the nut with a 500g (half pound) steel hammer (not a toy...), you need to be two people

Did you check the system without the pilot drives connected, the rotary one and/or the ram in the aft cabin?

Can you check the terminals of the rack-and-pinion system, at the end of the square tubes, on portside? Are they loose?
Although rare, the bearings of the wheel's shaft could be stuck.

Lastly, you could try and disconnect the cables at the rudder quadrant to check if the cables are still stiff or if you can easily turn the rudder shaft.
If the cables are still stiff, you may need a new set of rack and pinion with cables (still available at AMEL's).
If the rudder alone is stiff, you should first try and replace and grease the packing stuff in the stuffing box. If no improvement, this may mean that the intermediate nylon bushing has expanded and prevents rotation of the shaft. You could then remove both screws that hold the bushing together with the stainless steel U-shaped bracket (the bushing, if stuck with the shaft, will then turn free in its bracket).
If the rudder blade is still stiff...the shaft may be bent, but this happens only in case of a big knock (grounding, or heavy anchor chain from another boat caught in the rudder - you will see marks on the rudder...)

Bon courage!!!

Olivier



On Wednesday, January 4, 2017 11:45 PM, "pjn.mccallin@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
I had hoped not to seek further advice but events have conspired against me!

 Maude is chasing down a new motor for me so my bow thruster issue is on the mend so to speak!
Horwever on leaving Antigua after 9 nights at anchor the steering was very stiff. I did search the whole system from the rudder quadrant to the back of the wheel. By now there was a squeak from behind the wheel and it sounded as though it was coming from the "spacer"behind the wheel.
I did try and remove the wheel by driving two wedges behind but to no avail, however I did give the nut a thump and the squeak seems to have almost disappeared.well almost!
I wonder is there a bearing involved at the wheel end, there certainly is on the chain socket end. The cables seem to move freely I don't think there is a problem in the worm drive push/pull arms. 
Of course this still leaves the problem of removing the wheel the distance between it and the spacer would not allow me to insert a puller foot, so I am stumped!
Any one had a similar experience?, I know that Olivier B changed the steering cables when the yacht was new but I did not watch him actually do it shame on me.
Pearls of wisdom please Patrick.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AC Water pump spares

eric freedman
 

Hi Andrew,

I will be in St Maarten January 12-20. If you are there I would love to have the pump.

Kimberlite is at the Simpson Bay marina now.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2017 8:33 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] AC Water pump spares

 

 

Hi, everyone I have just replaced my AC pump on our SM2000 Hull 285 because it developed a slight leak at the shaft. For various reasons of sourcing parts at the time I decided to replace it with the same but have this original. I am expecting to run down the islands and to Panama over next few months, and if anyone would like it for parts I am happy to drop it off at Antigua, the BVIs, St Lucia or the BVI or if on my way. (no specific itinerary except I am off to St Maarten shortly from Antigua and will be calling in at to Lucia in early Feb to pick up family visitors. Free to a good home for parts but not in full working order due to shaft dribbling (motor seems fine as did volume through pump) I am assuming a new one will give the 16 years of service that the last one gave so decided not to carry it around for that long!

Andrew
SY Caramba SM2000, 285
Caribbean

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AC Water pump spares

karkauai
 

Hi Andrew,
I'll be in Panama until at least April.  If you still have it, I'll be happy to take it off your hands!
Kent
SM243
Kristy

AC Water pump spares

Andrew & Lindsey, SY Caramba SM285 <awsnowdon@...>
 

Hi, everyone I have just replaced my AC pump on our SM2000 Hull 285 because it developed a slight leak at the shaft. For various reasons of sourcing parts at the time I decided to replace it with the same but have this original. I am expecting to run down the islands and to Panama over next few months, and if anyone would like it for parts I am happy to drop it off at Antigua, the BVIs, St Lucia or the BVI or if on my way. (no specific itinerary except I am off to St Maarten shortly from Antigua and will be calling in at to Lucia in early Feb to pick up family visitors. Free to a good home for parts but not in full working order due to shaft dribbling (motor seems fine as did volume through pump) I am assuming a new one will give the 16 years of service that the last one gave so decided not to carry it around for that long!

Andrew
SY Caramba SM2000, 285
Caribbean

Stiff steering Caramelle 385

pjn.mccallin@...
 

I had hoped not to seek further advice but events have conspired against me!


 Maude is chasing down a new motor for me so my bow thruster issue is on the mend so to speak!

Horwever on leaving Antigua after 9 nights at anchor the steering was very stiff. I did search the whole system from the rudder quadrant to the back of the wheel. By now there was a squeak from behind the wheel and it sounded as though it was coming from the "spacer"behind the wheel.

I did try and remove the wheel by driving two wedges behind but to no avail, however I did give the nut a thump and the squeak seems to have almost disappeared.well almost!

I wonder is there a bearing involved at the wheel end, there certainly is on the chain socket end. The cables seem to move freely I don't think there is a problem in the worm drive push/pull arms. 

Of course this still leaves the problem of removing the wheel the distance between it and the spacer would not allow me to insert a puller foot, so I am stumped!

Any one had a similar experience?, I know that Olivier B changed the steering cables when the yacht was new but I did not watch him actually do it shame on me.

Pearls of wisdom please Patrick.

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Xantrex battery monitor

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Thomas;

The batteries were replaced by the previous owner. The broker that I purchased the boat from mentioned that they had elected to go with "inexpensive" batteries, so I should expect no more that 18 months of life.

I have taken care of them and so far no issues. They were some turkish brand, not original Amel used brand.

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax

Re: Salt water manifold leaking

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

Here is an update on salt water manifold issue.  I removed it at Amel Caraibes and replaced it with a stainless steel version built to Bill Rouse's dimensions from BeBe ( he kindly furnished).  It should last longer than me.  The old unit fabricated in copper had several small pin hole leaks so I will not attempt to repair as pipe wall is too thin.  Frank Vali (actually an electrician) at Le Marin arranged fabrication at local machine shop and installed new one.  The SS version cost me €450.00; expensive but done quickly.  I'll post pictures of old and new in photo section.

Ben

Ben and Gayle
La Bella Vita
SM 347
Currently Le Marin 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Xantrex battery monitor

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Thomas,

I failed to answer Lithium Batteries:
Will your 3 chargers correctly charge them? I think no.
If one fails and you are at XYZ country how do you replace?

So, do the math including replacing your chargers...is the theoretical life worth it?

And remember my story about the theoretical life of the Varta batteries.

Best,

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Jan 4, 2017 7:02 AM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Thomas,

I was sure it was that type of battery load tester. That is really old-school. They only test theoretical loads and give appropriate readings, and there is a lot of "art" in the results.

A digital battery tester will test for internal resistance (shorts) and digitally test for the batteries actual CCA which you can measure against its rated CCA. The Solar brand digital tester sold by Amazon is a cheap Chinese copy of an American tester. The electronics and software are exact. And, it will cost you about $50. Once you get it and new batteries test them every 3-4 months or when you suspect something...to test, completely disconnect one battery at a time.

I missed the fact that you are in Corsica. I hope that some other owners will suggest a battery source for you. I will tell you that when I was in Europe, I paid almost 3,000 Euros for a set of Varta calcium batteries. They started failing one at a time in 6 months and in 15 months I replaced the last one of them. I tried to get the owner of Varta, Johnson in UK, to do something...they did not. And the Greek retailer did nothing. If I were you, I would avoid that brand.

Be careful in battery selection that the new batteries can be charged with all of your charging sources, including the engine alternator. AGMs may be a problem for your engine alternator, but your Mastervolts probably have a setting for them. It would be interesting to know what brand Amel Hyeres sells to SM and 54 owners now that Delphi is gone.

Maybe you should talk to Andrew Lamb, a SM owner, or Mike Johnson, another SM owner...both in France...I CCd them of this email.

Good luck!

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Currently, St John USVI
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Jan 4, 2017 6:28 AM, "Garulfo sv svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Thanks Bill,

To answer your questions about the battery tester:
It was an analog tester, basically a massive resistor that pulls a lot of amps from the battery and a display that shows the 'quality' of the battery.
He didn't test pairs, my mistake, but it turned out the bad ones where part of pairs.

I will look into your suggestion. 

By the way, do you or anyone else in the group have any views on Lithium batteries? I wonder if the advance/standardisation in technology and drop in costs make it a viable option nowadays. Do you know if they would require special chargers?

Best,

Thomas
Garulfo
Amel 54 #122
Calvi, Corsica, France

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Xantrex battery monitor

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Thomas,

I was sure it was that type of battery load tester. That is really old-school. They only test theoretical loads and give appropriate readings, and there is a lot of "art" in the results.

A digital battery tester will test for internal resistance (shorts) and digitally test for the batteries actual CCA which you can measure against its rated CCA. The Solar brand digital tester sold by Amazon is a cheap Chinese copy of an American tester. The electronics and software are exact. And, it will cost you about $50. Once you get it and new batteries test them every 3-4 months or when you suspect something...to test, completely disconnect one battery at a time.

I missed the fact that you are in Corsica. I hope that some other owners will suggest a battery source for you. I will tell you that when I was in Europe, I paid almost 3,000 Euros for a set of Varta calcium batteries. They started failing one at a time in 6 months and in 15 months I replaced the last one of them. I tried to get the owner of Varta, Johnson in UK, to do something...they did not. And the Greek retailer did nothing. If I were you, I would avoid that brand.

Be careful in battery selection that the new batteries can be charged with all of your charging sources, including the engine alternator. AGMs may be a problem for your engine alternator, but your Mastervolts probably have a setting for them. It would be interesting to know what brand Amel Hyeres sells to SM and 54 owners now that Delphi is gone.

Maybe you should talk to Andrew Lamb, a SM owner, or Mike Johnson, another SM owner...both in France...I CCd them of this email.

Good luck!

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Currently, St John USVI
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Jan 4, 2017 6:28 AM, "Garulfo sv svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Bill,

To answer your questions about the battery tester:
It was an analog tester, basically a massive resistor that pulls a lot of amps from the battery and a display that shows the 'quality' of the battery.
He didn't test pairs, my mistake, but it turned out the bad ones where part of pairs.

I will look into your suggestion. 

By the way, do you or anyone else in the group have any views on Lithium batteries? I wonder if the advance/standardisation in technology and drop in costs make it a viable option nowadays. Do you know if they would require special chargers?

Best,

Thomas
Garulfo
Amel 54 #122
Calvi, Corsica, France

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Xantrex battery monitor

Sv Garulfo
 

Thanks Mohammad,

I'll start at the beginning and address the battery bank issue

Did you replace the original batteries with the same spec?


Best,

Thomas
Garulfo 
Amel 54 #122
Calvi, Corsica, France

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Xantrex battery monitor

Sv Garulfo
 

Thanks Bill,

To answer your questions about the battery tester:
It was an analog tester, basically a massive resistor that pulls a lot of amps from the battery and a display that shows the 'quality' of the battery.
He didn't test pairs, my mistake, but it turned out the bad ones where part of pairs.

I will look into your suggestion. 

By the way, do you or anyone else in the group have any views on Lithium batteries? I wonder if the advance/standardisation in technology and drop in costs make it a viable option nowadays. Do you know if they would require special chargers?

Best,

Thomas
Garulfo
Amel 54 #122
Calvi, Corsica, France

Re: Xantrex battery monitor

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hello Thomas;

I will add a few notes regarding the monitor. Bill has already addressed your battery bank issue, which I agree with.

The xantrex battery monitor ( I'm assuming that you have the same as ours) basically calculates the percent battery charge from several factors like current in, current out, battery voltage etc. In order for this percentage to be close, the variables within the monitor need to be adjusted to your type of battery.

For example, different types of batteries absorb current at different rates. So if you provide 100 amps to the batteries, some may absorb 90 Amps, some may absorb 80 amps , etc.

Therefore these parameters need to be adjusted so that the calculated percentage charge shown correlates approximately with the actual percentage charge.

Also, the monitor needs to be reset to 100% charge at least once a month when the batteries are at full charge to synchronize the monitor with the batteries.

When all is said and done, this is still an approximation.

As far as how deep to discharge before recharging, this is a big discussion that quickly goes into a lot theory. However, the basics of it, as I understand it, battery life depends mainly on the level of discharge and number of charge cycles. The deeper the discharge or the more charge cycles, the less the life span.

In order to balance these and to maximize the charge while running the generator, we discharge to about 70-75% (or about 160-200 amps out of our 630 AH bank). This will allow a deep enough discharge so the batteries are able to take the full 100 amps of the charger for 1 hour. It has served us well so far. Our batteries are 3 years old, and I have not noticed any reduction in performance.

I spent quite a bit of adjusting the parameters in the xantrex and it is now within 2-3% of the actual charge state.

However, non of these will have any effect with a bad battery bank. I have followed a lot of discussions on battery mishaps and we have made the decision to change our batteries every 4-5 years, regardless of performance.


Mohammad and Aty
AMEL 54 #099
B&B Kokomo

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Xantrex battery monitor

karkauai
 

Hi Thomas,
I assume you're reading that 85% on your 24v monitor.  They are notoriously inaccurate.
I use voltage to decide when to charge (at or above 24.7v), and amperage to decide when to stop charging (below 10A when using the generator).
You should periodically equalize (desulfate) your batteries to refresh them.  This requires a charger with an equalization cycle which charges at a high voltage (32v with my flooded lead-acid batteries...you have to know the specs for your batteries).  I don't know anything about Pb Ca batteries, so this could be something that doesn't apply to your system.

If you do equalize, turn off all 24v equipment during the cycle to avoid damage from the high voltage.

Kent
Kristy
SM243

On Jan 3, 2017, at 3:28 PM, Garulfo sv svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


Hello all, 

Our battery monitor (Xantrex) is behaving strangely: the percentage reading never drops below 85% (starting on 100% on a fully charged battery bank) despite the voltage droping to 23V (typically starting from 26.6V on a full charge). I can hear from the pumps struggling that the voltage is indeed low.

We are on 12 service + 1 starter 12V, 105Ah Freedom Pb Calcium sealed batteries with Mastervolt chargers and alternator.

My questions are:
1. Is that percentage reading meant to be useful?
2. What voltage would indicate a need to recharge (to maximise battery life / recharge time trade off)?

On a related note, the bank is really old (orignal with the boat, 7year old!) and the decharge is a pretty quick (a few hours on a pretty thrift regime of max 15A). I suppose that's a sign it's time to consider retirement. (Having said that, a guy with a battery tester only found a couple of pairs with 80% of original capacity, so it doesn't add up). So now will start the research for the best solution. I'm obviously keen on any suggestion!


Best, 

Thomas & Soraya
Garulfo
Amel 54 #122
Calvi, Corsica, France

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Xantrex battery monitor

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Thomas,

I have a lot to say, and you are not going to like any of it.

"A guy with a tester said a couple of pairs were at 80%..." I think you had a well intentioned friend that wanted to give you not-so-bad news and probably used an old fashion load tester with an analog meter. What kind of tester? Why did he test pairs? Based on what you have said, forget about that good news...it isn't.

At 7+ years old, you need to change the batteries. You might want to look a DEKA deep cycle GP31. They will fit fine, but you will need to have cables made to replace the Amel Copper Bars which will not fit.

The battery monitor sounds like it is reporting everything correctly. Your battery voltage is getting extremely low because the batteries are no good and you are not using very much of the theoretical capacity. After you change the batteries and reset the monitor to match the new bank, let's look at the monitor again. It is probably OK.

With the age and condition of those batteries, you stand a chance of the chargers cooking the bank. I would monitor the temperature of the bank and NOT leave the boat unattended with the charger on until you change the battery bank. With the charger ON for two hours, touch the top of the batteries. If any are warm or hot to the touch, those have internal shorts and need to be disconnected from the bank.

Lastly, you do not need a deep cycle battery for the 13th a/k/a starter battery. Get the highest CCA (cold cranking amps) battery that will fit, and not a deep cycle.

PS, go to Amazon.com and buy yourself a digital battery tester, brand name solar fir about $50.

Best,

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Jan 3, 2017 4:35 PM, "Garulfo sv svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


Hello all, 

Our battery monitor (Xantrex) is behaving strangely: the percentage reading never drops below 85% (starting on 100% on a fully charged battery bank) despite the voltage droping to 23V (typically starting from 26.6V on a full charge). I can hear from the pumps struggling that the voltage is indeed low.

We are on 12 service + 1 starter 12V, 105Ah Freedom Pb Calcium sealed batteries with Mastervolt chargers and alternator.

My questions are:
1. Is that percentage reading meant to be useful?
2. What voltage would indicate a need to recharge (to maximise battery life / recharge time trade off)?

On a related note, the bank is really old (orignal with the boat, 7year old!) and the decharge is a pretty quick (a few hours on a pretty thrift regime of max 15A). I suppose that's a sign it's time to consider retirement. (Having said that, a guy with a battery tester only found a couple of pairs with 80% of original capacity, so it doesn't add up). So now will start the research for the best solution. I'm obviously keen on any suggestion!


Best, 

Thomas & Soraya
Garulfo
Amel 54 #122
Calvi, Corsica, France


Xantrex battery monitor

Sv Garulfo
 


Hello all, 

Our battery monitor (Xantrex) is behaving strangely: the percentage reading never drops below 85% (starting on 100% on a fully charged battery bank) despite the voltage droping to 23V (typically starting from 26.6V on a full charge). I can hear from the pumps struggling that the voltage is indeed low.

We are on 12 service + 1 starter 12V, 105Ah Freedom Pb Calcium sealed batteries with Mastervolt chargers and alternator.

My questions are:
1. Is that percentage reading meant to be useful?
2. What voltage would indicate a need to recharge (to maximise battery life / recharge time trade off)?

On a related note, the bank is really old (orignal with the boat, 7year old!) and the decharge is a pretty quick (a few hours on a pretty thrift regime of max 15A). I suppose that's a sign it's time to consider retirement. (Having said that, a guy with a battery tester only found a couple of pairs with 80% of original capacity, so it doesn't add up). So now will start the research for the best solution. I'm obviously keen on any suggestion!


Best, 

Thomas & Soraya
Garulfo
Amel 54 #122
Calvi, Corsica, France