Date   

Re: Ballooner price

 

QSails.com 1.642,00 € in red/white/blue triradial, just like the original.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 7:08 AM Leopold Hauer via groups.io <leopold.hauer=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Can anyone tell me which  is the usual price for a SM ballooner?  (tri-radial cut and parallel cut)

Leo 
SM 69
Yin Yang in Fiji (I am in Austria)


Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Kent,
The "dust cover" is not a lip seal, it's a "V" dirt seal - NAK V-045 50-40-4.5.

The lip seals are: top: 58 46 7; bottom: 33 25 6

Also, I think that assembly just wants grease, not gear oil, like your winches.
Craig


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

John Clark
 

My friend here in St Thomas has SM #24. He also has the aluminum drive.   Didier in Martinique rebuilt his drive a couple of years ago.  I will forward this to him and see if he has any insight.

Regards,  John

SV Annie SM 37
St Thomas USVI

On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 11:31 AM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
I did not understand your original email.

Apparently, you have the original aluminum C-Drive. I have never seen one of these. Someone told me that Amel replaced these. I do not know if that replacement story is accurate or not.

I do not believe that I can help you.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:11 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:
I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them.
We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.

Many thanks,
Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990


On 17 Jul 2020, at 6:04 PM, Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi via groups.io <helenmi57=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the prompt reply!
Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 
It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again 
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990

<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>


On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Ballooner price

Leopold Hauer
 

Can anyone tell me which  is the usual price for a SM ballooner?  (tri-radial cut and parallel cut)

Leo 
SM 69
Yin Yang in Fiji (I am in Austria)


Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

eric freedman
 

Mark,
The thumbscrews are for the cover plate for the water pump.
They are a lot easier to hold and install.
Eric

On July 19, 2020 at 12:42 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Very cool! Thanks!

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: eric [mailto:kimberlite@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 6:20 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Mark Erdos
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

Try using these using these thumb screws. They are so much easier then the ones supplied with the pump.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~metric/thumb-screws/metric-stainless-steel-raised-knurled-head-thumb-screws/


On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

 

I do mine by brail.

 

Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

 

 

129671-92110 YANMAR IMPELLER BOLT

The above tool is used for installation and removal.

 

I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.

 

Being left handed is an advantage.

 

When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.  

 

I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.

 

Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy


 


 


 

 


Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

Mark Erdos
 

Very cool! Thanks!

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: eric [mailto:kimberlite@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 6:20 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Mark Erdos
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

Try using these using these thumb screws. They are so much easier then the ones supplied with the pump.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~metric/thumb-screws/metric-stainless-steel-raised-knurled-head-thumb-screws/


On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

 

I do mine by brail.

 

Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

 

 

129671-92110 YANMAR IMPELLER BOLT

The above tool is used for installation and removal.

 

I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.

 

Being left handed is an advantage.

 

When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.  

 

I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.

 

Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy


 


 


Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

eric freedman
 

Try using these using these thumb screws. They are so much easier then the ones supplied with the pump.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~metric/thumb-screws/metric-stainless-steel-raised-knurled-head-thumb-screws/

On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

 

I do mine by brail.

 

Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

 

 

129671-92110 YANMAR IMPELLER BOLT

The above tool is used for installation and removal.

 

I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.

 

Being left handed is an advantage.

 

When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.  

 

I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.

 

Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy


 

 


Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

eric freedman
 


On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

 

I do mine by brail.

 

Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

 

 

129671-92110 YANMAR IMPELLER BOLT

The above tool is used for installation and removal.

 

I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.

 

Being left handed is an advantage.

 

When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.  

 

I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.

 

Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy

 



 


 


Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Kent,

 

I do mine by brail.

 

Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

 

 

129671-92110 YANMAR IMPELLER BOLT

The above tool is used for installation and removal.

 

I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.

 

Being left handed is an advantage.

 

When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.  

 

I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.

 

Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy


Upside down intercooler by Amel

eric freedman
 

These are the best photos I have- the one with the shaft alternator is not mine.

Fair Winds,

Eric


Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

eric freedman
 

Had you seen the solution Amel came up for that problem?
they flipped over the intercooler upside down and made a bracket to hold it up aft of the engine.
I will try to send a photo.
Eric Sm 376 Kimberlite

On July 18, 2020 at 8:58 PM "karkauai via groups.io" <karkauai@...> wrote:

I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy

 


Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit

karkauai
 

JP, I know the Mizzen furler is water-lubed, but the main furler had heavy oil, and others have used grease when refurbishing.  Are you using water only on the manual mainsail furler?

Kent

On Jul 18, 2020 4:44 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:
Hello Kent,

I followed Danny SIMMS suggestion; I rinse with loads of sweet water when able. 

This has been done automatically in NZ... so much so that a newspaper called the storm “the 500 year freak rain” 

We are dry; it’s N Amel 

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007


On 19/07/2020, at 5:16 AM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> wrote:

Well darn, sometimes I think my old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" policy is best. My newly refurbished manual mainsail furler, which I filled with heavy gear oil, is leaking onto the cabin top.

I hate to take it off and redo what I just did with new seals, so I'm asking if anyone has ideas about what to do differently.

It's hard to pinpoint where the oil is leaking on the bottom side of the gearbox. I didn't use any sealant on the outside of the shaft seal, so that's one thing, I could use a speed sleeve on the shaft, but the shaft looked nice and smooth.

I could go with grease instead of oil, but that means more frequent maintenance. Has anyone put a zerk in this gearbox for periodic greasing?

Thanks for sharing your expertise and experience.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

karkauai
 

I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy


Re: Any data on B&G displays

Stefan and Anne Deerberg
 

Hi Elja!

That feels good. I’m not alone with this lovely old traditional clocks.
I like them very much. They made from very good aircraft Aluminium quality.
I’ll try to find a used processor,  but they will probably also be almost  20 years old.
In Martinique there is a really friendly perfectionist. Jacques is the owner from “Diginav” in Le Marin  and he loves to repair the old devices. 
For my opinion it’s one of the most experienced marine electronic workshops I’ve ever seen.

Thank you for your ideas 

Stefan 

SM 373, OYA 
Tobago Cays 
( I suggest the  tobago cays will never be so empty again, like in theses Corona times. Just a handful  lonesome sailors)


Stefan Deerberg 

Geschäftsführer 
Deerberg GmbH 
Unternehmer/ Entrepreneur

Velgen 35
29582 Hanstedt 
Germany

Mobil: +49 172 7757444
stefan.deerberg@...
www.deerberg.de



On 18. Jul 2020, at 09:40, Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222 <Bijorka@...> wrote:

He Stefan last week i have the same problem , i maild and fone some houers  with B&g  on the end is the processor takes the data in give it to the digital unit but not to the analog units . The think like bill the processor is after 22 jaers on the end .
I make a post in the facebook groop , i am lucky and one menber sell me his old one compleat sythem
Try it also

Best Elja
SM Balu 222


Von meinem iPhone gesendet




Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Kent,

I followed Danny SIMMS suggestion; I rinse with loads of sweet water when able. 

This has been done automatically in NZ... so much so that a newspaper called the storm “the 500 year freak rain” 

We are dry; it’s N Amel 

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007


On 19/07/2020, at 5:16 AM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> wrote:

Well darn, sometimes I think my old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" policy is best. My newly refurbished manual mainsail furler, which I filled with heavy gear oil, is leaking onto the cabin top.

I hate to take it off and redo what I just did with new seals, so I'm asking if anyone has ideas about what to do differently.

It's hard to pinpoint where the oil is leaking on the bottom side of the gearbox. I didn't use any sealant on the outside of the shaft seal, so that's one thing, I could use a speed sleeve on the shaft, but the shaft looked nice and smooth.

I could go with grease instead of oil, but that means more frequent maintenance. Has anyone put a zerk in this gearbox for periodic greasing?

Thanks for sharing your expertise and experience.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


Chest freezer on keel cooling not keeping up so much

Billy Newport
 

My 55#56 has a chest freezer which has both keel and air cooling systems. I was on the keel cooled and with the water temp now 27C, it is unable to get the freezer temp under about 25F. The air freezer gets the temps down to 0F comfortably and I'm now using the air freezer.

Is the keel cooler expected to perform in warmer water (I'm thinking in the med and caribbean) and I can't help but think of course has to be the answer otherwise, whats the point so I must be missing a trick here.

Amel 55#56, Coder in Jersey City, NJ


Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit

karkauai
 

Thanks Bill, I hadn't seen that. Mine doesn't have the "dust cover", but that's not causing the oil leak.

Does anyone know the dimensions of the dust cover? I'm guessing it's a double lip oil seal that is 8-10mm  thick?

Thanks again
Kent

On Jul 18, 2020 3:02 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:
You might want to contact Ken from Aquarius who has three Youtube videos he made of how to rebuild the main sail manual furler.  He used grease instead of oil to lubricate after rebuild.  He also used the seal kit from Amel.  Here's the link:  youtube.com/watch?v=F0HIWBv1Pfc.

I'm no expert but it seems like installing a lube fitting should work.  Its apparently been done a lot on the gearbox for the electric furler.  
Regards
Bill Shaproski 
Pacific Cool

On Sat, Jul 18, 2020, 10:16 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Well darn, sometimes I think my old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" policy is best. My newly refurbished manual mainsail furler, which I filled with heavy gear oil, is leaking onto the cabin top.

I hate to take it off and redo what I just did with new seals, so I'm asking if anyone has ideas about what to do differently.

It's hard to pinpoint where the oil is leaking on the bottom side of the gearbox. I didn't use any sealant on the outside of the shaft seal, so that's one thing, I could use a speed sleeve on the shaft, but the shaft looked nice and smooth.

I could go with grease instead of oil, but that means more frequent maintenance. Has anyone put a zerk in this gearbox for periodic greasing?

Thanks for sharing your expertise and experience.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit

Bill Shaproski
 

You might want to contact Ken from Aquarius who has three Youtube videos he made of how to rebuild the main sail manual furler.  He used grease instead of oil to lubricate after rebuild.  He also used the seal kit from Amel.  Here's the link:  youtube.com/watch?v=F0HIWBv1Pfc.

I'm no expert but it seems like installing a lube fitting should work.  Its apparently been done a lot on the gearbox for the electric furler.  
Regards
Bill Shaproski 
Pacific Cool

On Sat, Jul 18, 2020, 10:16 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Well darn, sometimes I think my old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" policy is best. My newly refurbished manual mainsail furler, which I filled with heavy gear oil, is leaking onto the cabin top.

I hate to take it off and redo what I just did with new seals, so I'm asking if anyone has ideas about what to do differently.

It's hard to pinpoint where the oil is leaking on the bottom side of the gearbox. I didn't use any sealant on the outside of the shaft seal, so that's one thing, I could use a speed sleeve on the shaft, but the shaft looked nice and smooth.

I could go with grease instead of oil, but that means more frequent maintenance. Has anyone put a zerk in this gearbox for periodic greasing?

Thanks for sharing your expertise and experience.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit

karkauai
 

Well darn, sometimes I think my old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" policy is best. My newly refurbished manual mainsail furler, which I filled with heavy gear oil, is leaking onto the cabin top.

I hate to take it off and redo what I just did with new seals, so I'm asking if anyone has ideas about what to do differently.

It's hard to pinpoint where the oil is leaking on the bottom side of the gearbox. I didn't use any sealant on the outside of the shaft seal, so that's one thing, I could use a speed sleeve on the shaft, but the shaft looked nice and smooth.

I could go with grease instead of oil, but that means more frequent maintenance. Has anyone put a zerk in this gearbox for periodic greasing?

Thanks for sharing your expertise and experience.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


Re: Sand Blasting vs. Soda

eric freedman
 

Hi Craig,

Sorry, I don't recall.

If you speak with the vendor the product was used 3 years ago.

Best,

Eric

On July 18, 2020 at 11:24 AM "Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via groups.io" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Hi Eric,
The picture of the stipper you used doesn't show the full label but does show rockmiracle.com. I recall Rock Miracle is the brand I used years ago. It had methylene chloride which is the toxic stuff that made it work. Their website is under construction so I couldn't see if the product still has methylene chloride - there seems to be an "original" version and perhaps a newer "safe-but-doesn't-work-very-well" version. Did yours have methylene chloride and if so, do you know where to tget it?
Thanks,
Craig