Date   

Re: Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

INUS - BUSCH
 

Aras,

 

sorry, I do not have davits.

BTW until now I haven’t seen a solution, which could please me.

But I am very interested in what you are planning.

Dieter
Fal-lera, Sharki #135

 

 

Von: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Im Auftrag von Aras
Gesendet: Freitag, 17. Juli 2020 16:03
An: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

 

Dieter,

We studied options regarding a hard shell dinghy vs a rib vs inflatable.  The Pudgy can be fitted as a life boat. [currently working towards certification by USCG].  That means I can sell my liferaft and free up some space in my locker.  Wife likes the fact that our Honda 2.3 hp  weighs 30lbs [ just under 14 kg] can be hoisted by her.  And yes sails quite nicely.

Downsides, is that it weighs altogether fully loaded 59 kg (130lbs), a bit heavy and stowing looks to be a challenge.  I've seen some davits for Sharki's on Yachtworld, but I'm not sold on them quite yet.   So if you have davits, I surely like to see how they are attached.

 

Aras

SV FIASCO

Sharki #163 1988

 

On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 9:31 AM INUS - BUSCH via groups.io <inusbusch=yahoo.de@groups.io> wrote:

@ Aras:  

I have never seen a Portland pudgy, it looks nice and sails!

What I have is a UL 270 Aluminum from 3d tender, inflatable with aluminium bottom, which fits on the fore deck of my sharki, weight is only 28 kg!

 

Dieter

Fal-lera, Sharki #135

 

Von: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Im Auftrag von Aras
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 16. Juli 2020 15:16
An: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

 

I traded in our inflatable for a Portland Pudgy. She tows quite nicely, however on longer passages I do have to mount it on the foredeck.  AS with the Maramu,  the Sharki's stern tapers quite a bit and the aft deck is not quite big enough to stow the Pudgy there.  So far I've been  stowing it upside down.  It makes it a bit harder to load and unload off the deck. I'm working on building a new cradle that would allow me to stow upright.

 

One other option I'm thinking about are low profile dink davits made of carbon fiber [the mizzen boom overhangs transom].  The davits would help greatly on short passages and make it easier to move boat around in tight places and improve visibility. Does anyone know of an outfit that works with carbon fiber?

 

Aras Grinius

S/V FIASCO

Sharki #163 1988

 

On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 2:15 PM smiles bernard via groups.io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi there

I’d be really interested to hear of others Maramu dinghy choice wrt stowage
The transom of the Maramu is quite a bit narrower than the SM and later models - as such davits don’t feel right as any dink would overhang the sides If the boat a lot

Plus I have a much treasured Hydrovane on the back

We currently carry an inflatable and also a nesting affair I made

The nesting dinghy stows Inverted under the mizzen boom but that space is not big enough for the inflatable which I pack up and stow in the fwd locker

Really interested in the options people have explored.

Does anyone mount their dinghy right side up on the deck on the foredeck? I’ve seen a few SMs with this setup but feels tight re space on the Maramu

All the very best

Miles
Maramu 162


Looks like we are heading off as



--

Aras Grinius



--

Aras Grinius


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

amelforme
 

That is one of the early aluminum transmissions that were very prone to failure. Amel offered to replace them all at Amel’s expense. Some of these affected boats had been resold and didn’t get the memo. Some people decided that ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it’ and didn’t take the replacement. Over the years I was given several different hull numbers that supposedly were the cut off point for the aluminum transmissions. In every case, # 29 was included in the aluminum transmission equipped boats.

 

I hope this is helpful.

 

All the best,

Joel

 

           JOEL F. POTTER ~ CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST, L.L.C.

                                         The Experienced AMEL Guy

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                  Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2020 11:31 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] SM 1990 drive unit seals

 

I did not understand your original email.

 

Apparently, you have the original aluminum C-Drive. I have never seen one of these. Someone told me that Amel replaced these. I do not know if that replacement story is accurate or not.

 

I do not believe that I can help you.

 

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:11 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them.

We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.

 

Many thanks,

Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990



On 17 Jul 2020, at 6:04 PM, Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi via groups.io <helenmi57=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill,

 

Thanks for the prompt reply!

Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 

It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!

Thanks again 

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990

 

<image0.jpeg>

<image1.jpeg>

 



On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:



The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.

 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

Craig Briggs
 

Hi guys,

So Permatex has several RTV Gasket Makers in different color tubes for different purposes, like water pumps, transmissions, hi-temp, or sensor-safe. The Green one is for gear oil. The Red only says it "resists" oil. The Green says, " 
 Specially formulated to withstand the harsh gear oil environment found in differentials and transfer cases. Because gear oil has friction modifiers that break down normal RTV and cause leaking, this specialty silicone has been tested to OEM specifications to ensure complete sealing. As a gasket maker, it seeks and seals leak paths that cut gaskets cannot. It can also be used to seal cut gaskets.

That's the one you want. It is Permatex part number 81182. $8.46 on Amazon. Instructions say apply a bead, assemble and tighten only finger tight. After an hour retighten only 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Cures in 24 hours.
I've found the waiting time is really important, lest you end up with the material totally squished out. 

Good luck with it and if it works you can say you've got the first "Green" Amel. 
Cheers, Craig


Wet exhaust hose connection to hull

Duane Siegfri
 

I'm getting ready to remove the old exhaust hose from the hull connection.  It seems pretty firmly fixed after removing the hose clamps.  I've read another thread where it was noted that Amel used silicone to provide further sealing to this connection.

If anybody has removed this hose I'm open to suggestions.

At present I'm headed into town to get a pair of snips that will cut the wire reinforcing.  I plan to cut it short of the through hull and then start cutting the hose toward the hull, snipping the wires as I go and peeling the hose off the through hull fitting.

By the way, at the suggestion of Joel Potter I healed the boat over with a halyard to keep the through hull fitting well above the waterline which worked very nicely.

Attached is a photo of the through hull.


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

Thanks Bill,

That’s what we used... we will try to do it more carefully this time. The only difference is that our Permatex was a few years old and so the red RTV silicone gasket maker hi-temp low volatile up to 650F 343C resists oil, water and anti freeze, that we used  is made by ABRO. It needs to sit for 10 mins to form a film whereas the PERMATEX you stick immediately. Don’t know if that is a problem?

Many thanks!



On 17 Jul 2020, at 6:34 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


You should not use on O-Ring unless there is a groove for the O-Ring.

My only idea is to clean the joint completely and use something like this product to reseal the 2 components: https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-high-temp-red-rtv-silicone-gasket/?locale=en_us

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:04 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

Thanks for the prompt reply!
Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 
It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again 
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990

<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>


On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

 

You should not use on O-Ring unless there is a groove for the O-Ring.

My only idea is to clean the joint completely and use something like this product to reseal the 2 components: https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-high-temp-red-rtv-silicone-gasket/?locale=en_us

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:04 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

Thanks for the prompt reply!
Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 
It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again 
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990



On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

 

I did not understand your original email.

Apparently, you have the original aluminum C-Drive. I have never seen one of these. Someone told me that Amel replaced these. I do not know if that replacement story is accurate or not.

I do not believe that I can help you.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:11 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:
I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them.
We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.

Many thanks,
Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990


On 17 Jul 2020, at 6:04 PM, Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi via groups.io <helenmi57=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the prompt reply!
Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 
It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again 
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990

<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>


On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them.
We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.

Many thanks,
Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990


On 17 Jul 2020, at 6:04 PM, Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi via groups.io <helenmi57@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the prompt reply!
Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 
It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again 
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990

<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>


On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the prompt reply!
Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 
It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again 
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990



On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: Santorin Genoa Furler Motor

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Ian,
Not sure if this will help but my motor is labeled (pic below):
165
Bosch
0136 350 008
JRA <-> 12v 1000W 3100 1/MIN
S2 10 Min
Made in Germany

I googled Bosch 0-136-350 and got a hit on a motor that looks like ours, I think, although it's labeled 0-136-350-011.
Seems like we should be able to get inexpensive stock brushes, but I didn't spot them.

Good luck hunting,
Craig


Re: Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

Aras Grinius
 

Dieter,
We studied options regarding a hard shell dinghy vs a rib vs inflatable.  The Pudgy can be fitted as a life boat. [currently working towards certification by USCG].  That means I can sell my liferaft and free up some space in my locker.  Wife likes the fact that our Honda 2.3 hp  weighs 30lbs [ just under 14 kg] can be hoisted by her.  And yes sails quite nicely.
Downsides, is that it weighs altogether fully loaded 59 kg (130lbs), a bit heavy and stowing looks to be a challenge.  I've seen some davits for Sharki's on Yachtworld, but I'm not sold on them quite yet.   So if you have davits, I surely like to see how they are attached.

Aras
SV FIASCO
Sharki #163 1988


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 9:31 AM INUS - BUSCH via groups.io <inusbusch=yahoo.de@groups.io> wrote:

@ Aras:  

I have never seen a Portland pudgy, it looks nice and sails!

What I have is a UL 270 Aluminum from 3d tender, inflatable with aluminium bottom, which fits on the fore deck of my sharki, weight is only 28 kg!

 

Dieter

Fal-lera, Sharki #135

 

Von: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Im Auftrag von Aras
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 16. Juli 2020 15:16
An: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

 

I traded in our inflatable for a Portland Pudgy. She tows quite nicely, however on longer passages I do have to mount it on the foredeck.  AS with the Maramu,  the Sharki's stern tapers quite a bit and the aft deck is not quite big enough to stow the Pudgy there.  So far I've been  stowing it upside down.  It makes it a bit harder to load and unload off the deck. I'm working on building a new cradle that would allow me to stow upright.

 

One other option I'm thinking about are low profile dink davits made of carbon fiber [the mizzen boom overhangs transom].  The davits would help greatly on short passages and make it easier to move boat around in tight places and improve visibility. Does anyone know of an outfit that works with carbon fiber?

 

Aras Grinius

S/V FIASCO

Sharki #163 1988

 

On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 2:15 PM smiles bernard via groups.io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi there

I’d be really interested to hear of others Maramu dinghy choice wrt stowage
The transom of the Maramu is quite a bit narrower than the SM and later models - as such davits don’t feel right as any dink would overhang the sides If the boat a lot

Plus I have a much treasured Hydrovane on the back

We currently carry an inflatable and also a nesting affair I made

The nesting dinghy stows Inverted under the mizzen boom but that space is not big enough for the inflatable which I pack up and stow in the fwd locker

Really interested in the options people have explored.

Does anyone mount their dinghy right side up on the deck on the foredeck? I’ve seen a few SMs with this setup but feels tight re space on the Maramu

All the very best

Miles
Maramu 162


Looks like we are heading off as




--

Aras Grinius



--
Aras Grinius


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

 

The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

INUS - BUSCH
 

@ Aras:  

I have never seen a Portland pudgy, it looks nice and sails!

What I have is a UL 270 Aluminum from 3d tender, inflatable with aluminium bottom, which fits on the fore deck of my sharki, weight is only 28 kg!

 

Dieter

Fal-lera, Sharki #135

 

Von: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Im Auftrag von Aras
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 16. Juli 2020 15:16
An: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

 

I traded in our inflatable for a Portland Pudgy. She tows quite nicely, however on longer passages I do have to mount it on the foredeck.  AS with the Maramu,  the Sharki's stern tapers quite a bit and the aft deck is not quite big enough to stow the Pudgy there.  So far I've been  stowing it upside down.  It makes it a bit harder to load and unload off the deck. I'm working on building a new cradle that would allow me to stow upright.

 

One other option I'm thinking about are low profile dink davits made of carbon fiber [the mizzen boom overhangs transom].  The davits would help greatly on short passages and make it easier to move boat around in tight places and improve visibility. Does anyone know of an outfit that works with carbon fiber?

 

Aras Grinius

S/V FIASCO

Sharki #163 1988

 

On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 2:15 PM smiles bernard via groups.io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi there

I’d be really interested to hear of others Maramu dinghy choice wrt stowage
The transom of the Maramu is quite a bit narrower than the SM and later models - as such davits don’t feel right as any dink would overhang the sides If the boat a lot

Plus I have a much treasured Hydrovane on the back

We currently carry an inflatable and also a nesting affair I made

The nesting dinghy stows Inverted under the mizzen boom but that space is not big enough for the inflatable which I pack up and stow in the fwd locker

Really interested in the options people have explored.

Does anyone mount their dinghy right side up on the deck on the foredeck? I’ve seen a few SMs with this setup but feels tight re space on the Maramu

All the very best

Miles
Maramu 162


Looks like we are heading off as




--

Aras Grinius


SM 1990 drive unit seals

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: Santorin Genoa Furler Motor

 

Ian,

I am sure you are aware that if you find an oversized brush, you can grind it to size. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020, 1:13 AM Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:

I am having trouble sourcing brushes and springs for the 12v furling motor. It is made by Bosch but the serial number on the motor is not recognised by Bosch. Does anyone know any more detail about the motor? I have had quotes for fabricating brushes and springs at a considerable price. 

Ian

Ocean Hobo Santorin No. 96 (1994)


Re: Sand Blasting vs. Soda

Ralf Schroeder
 

Hello,
My boys used sand blasting for my baghira.
But they blasted sand in three or more steps. So it's not that difficult for the ship.

After that, the Baghira has some very small holes. But this holes also has a different owner when he removed the old layers of paint with a random orbital sander.
This is not from blasting, but from air or water inclusions in the old painting and the beginning of osmosis.
So he and my boys smooth the ships with an epoxy spatula. Then 7 layers of an epoxy paint and then the antifouling.

Now, it looks very good.

Ralf
SV Baghira, Sharki #42


Santorin Genoa Furler Motor

Ian Park
 

I am having trouble sourcing brushes and springs for the 12v furling motor. It is made by Bosch but the serial number on the motor is not recognised by Bosch. Does anyone know any more detail about the motor? I have had quotes for fabricating brushes and springs at a considerable price. 

Ian

Ocean Hobo Santorin No. 96 (1994)


Re: Sand Blasting vs. Soda

 

I hired 2 guys in Turkey...2 days at about 6 hours a day and one of them worked twice as hard/fast as the other.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 4:09 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, Come on,you are too young to be in that old school. I stood back today and looked at that big hull and thought about how long it would take me to scrape and sand it down to the gel coat ,probably 200 hrs.,then walked right over to the office to inquire about sand blasting. Eric has me rethinking using a stripper,like Peel Away,but my negative side figures it probably doesn't work as advertised,nothing does. 
Stay Safe Down There,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Jul 16, 2020 4:20 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sand Blasting vs. Soda

Well, in this case, I am more old-fashion than Eric! Scrape, then sand.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 2:38 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Eric, I would think with 13 gallons you would be able to coat the boat 4 times. Did it take multiple coats to get it down to the gel coat,was it the kind of stripper you place plastic over ? It seems like so much work,that I would like to have it sand blasted and be done with it,but on the other hand I don't want to damage the gel coat. There is always pros &cons ,decisions are never easy and obvious,at least not for me.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...>
Sent: Thu, Jul 16, 2020 2:43 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sand Blasting vs. Soda

I preferred to do it the old fashioned way. I brought Kimberlite down to gel coat using 13 gallons of chemical stripper. It is tedious and 100% safe. You just don't know how good the operator of the soda blaster is. He might have 20 years of experience-- doing it the way. All the operator of the blaster has to do is lose concentration and blast right through the gelcoat and into Amels unique interior barrier coating.
Just a suspenders and belt solution. after washing the remnants of the stripper off , i had the boat sanded and applied 4 coats of Interprotect.
Kimberlite should now be good for another 18 years. Fair Winds
Eric

On July 16, 2020 at 2:33 PM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

Pat,

Soda Blasting is significantly less aggressive then Sand Blasting and is much less likely to cause damage to your gelcoat.  Personally, I would not have my boat bottom Sand Blasted.

When I was considering what to do with Cara's bottom to remove all the layers of old anti-fouling, I contacted Olivier Beaute.  Olivier had done our pre-purchase survey and as part of the survey report he had recommended that we do something to remove the large accumulation of old antifouling at our next haul out.  When I asked him about Soda Blasting, he wrote:

"This is a good way to remove the old anti-fouling coats, as long as the operator is careful and does not insist too much on a specific area. In fact, as soon as the white gel-coat can be seen, the operator must move its tool. With 22 years of practice, these people surely know what they're doing.  What would be bad is to remove the gel-coat and get to the GRP, which would mean the glass scales coat is affected. This sometimes happens with dry sand- blasting, more rarely with wet-sand  blasting."

I also asked about adding a barrier coat after Soda Blasting, and he replied:

 "AMEL spreads polyester resin with glass scales, in the mold, after the gel coat is sprayed and before the first glass cloth. No epoxy as polyester and epoxy are not compatible when wet.  This is supposed to fight water penetration and it works rather good.  The epoxy coat as a « barrier » is not necessary because you already have one. Moreover, before you could apply epoxy, you would need to wait for the hull to be very dry.  All you need before the anti fouling is a coat of the primer recommended by the anti fouling manufacturer."

We decided to do two coats of Interprotect 2000e before applying out bottom coat anyway since we had her down to gelcoat for what we hope is the only time in our ownership.  

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

 


Re: Any data on B&G displays

 

It is likely that it is the B&G Hydra 2000 Processor. You should consider it at end-of-life at 18 years old.

You are in a beautiful spot. There is a place in England (https://www.aandtinstruments.com/) that might be able to repair the processor, but while it is removed, you will have nothing including no depth. Also, was the wind working on the digital display before this happened? When was the last time the wind was working? There are technicians on Grenada and Trinidad, but if it is the processor, they probably will not be able to help. There is a good B&G tech and shop in Nanny Cay Yard, Tortola, BVI.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 4:05 PM Stefan and Anne Deerberg <stefan.deerberg@...> wrote:
Hi together!

We have on our SM from 2002 the original B&G Hydra 2000 system.
This morning, I switched it on and all 4 displays on the helmstaition showing nothing at all. But down at the navstation the Hydra 2000 FFD shows all except the wind informations.
 I’m not very experienced in electronics but my suggestion is the processor could be the problem.

Has anyone ever had this problem?

Thank you 

Stefan
SM OYA, 373
Tobago Cays, Grenadines 






Re: Sand Blasting vs. Soda

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, Come on,you are too young to be in that old school. I stood back today and looked at that big hull and thought about how long it would take me to scrape and sand it down to the gel coat ,probably 200 hrs.,then walked right over to the office to inquire about sand blasting. Eric has me rethinking using a stripper,like Peel Away,but my negative side figures it probably doesn't work as advertised,nothing does. 
Stay Safe Down There,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Jul 16, 2020 4:20 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sand Blasting vs. Soda

Well, in this case, I am more old-fashion than Eric! Scrape, then sand.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 2:38 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Eric, I would think with 13 gallons you would be able to coat the boat 4 times. Did it take multiple coats to get it down to the gel coat,was it the kind of stripper you place plastic over ? It seems like so much work,that I would like to have it sand blasted and be done with it,but on the other hand I don't want to damage the gel coat. There is always pros &cons ,decisions are never easy and obvious,at least not for me.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...>
Sent: Thu, Jul 16, 2020 2:43 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sand Blasting vs. Soda

I preferred to do it the old fashioned way. I brought Kimberlite down to gel coat using 13 gallons of chemical stripper. It is tedious and 100% safe. You just don't know how good the operator of the soda blaster is. He might have 20 years of experience-- doing it the way. All the operator of the blaster has to do is lose concentration and blast right through the gelcoat and into Amels unique interior barrier coating.
Just a suspenders and belt solution. after washing the remnants of the stripper off , i had the boat sanded and applied 4 coats of Interprotect.
Kimberlite should now be good for another 18 years. Fair Winds
Eric

On July 16, 2020 at 2:33 PM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

Pat,

Soda Blasting is significantly less aggressive then Sand Blasting and is much less likely to cause damage to your gelcoat.  Personally, I would not have my boat bottom Sand Blasted.

When I was considering what to do with Cara's bottom to remove all the layers of old anti-fouling, I contacted Olivier Beaute.  Olivier had done our pre-purchase survey and as part of the survey report he had recommended that we do something to remove the large accumulation of old antifouling at our next haul out.  When I asked him about Soda Blasting, he wrote:

"This is a good way to remove the old anti-fouling coats, as long as the operator is careful and does not insist too much on a specific area. In fact, as soon as the white gel-coat can be seen, the operator must move its tool. With 22 years of practice, these people surely know what they're doing.  What would be bad is to remove the gel-coat and get to the GRP, which would mean the glass scales coat is affected. This sometimes happens with dry sand- blasting, more rarely with wet-sand  blasting."

I also asked about adding a barrier coat after Soda Blasting, and he replied:

 "AMEL spreads polyester resin with glass scales, in the mold, after the gel coat is sprayed and before the first glass cloth. No epoxy as polyester and epoxy are not compatible when wet.  This is supposed to fight water penetration and it works rather good.  The epoxy coat as a « barrier » is not necessary because you already have one. Moreover, before you could apply epoxy, you would need to wait for the hull to be very dry.  All you need before the anti fouling is a coat of the primer recommended by the anti fouling manufacturer."

We decided to do two coats of Interprotect 2000e before applying out bottom coat anyway since we had her down to gelcoat for what we hope is the only time in our ownership.  

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA