Date   
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] xantrex/charging

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] xantrex/charging

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Jeff,

 

I believe you can find what you need by looking here: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/Miscellaneous/

 

Bill Rouse did a fantastic job of taking the most complicated operational manual ever written by humankind and generated for us a one page quick reference.

 

As an FYI – when your Xantrex monitor goes kaput, there are a couple of much easier to use replacements that are available. I replaced mine with  a LinkLite. It used the same harness and fit in the same hole on the panel. It is much easier to program and read.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Yacht: Cream Puff

 

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2016 11:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] xantrex/charging

 

 

Good Morning Amelians,

I just replaced my battery bank (12), and want to reset the xantrex monitoring system. I am charging the battery bank for the first time after some moderate discharging (130ah).

BTW, after the advise offered by Bill, I believe, I went with standard wet cells, $115 per, no tax.

Using the 30amp charger, I'm expecting to reach float stage at some point. I am showing (on the xantrex) +26a, and in 15 minutes (I've been charging for about 2 hrs) 33 ah, a difference of +5ah in 15 minutes. If I'm interpreting the data correctly, I take that to mean the charger has inputed 5ah of charge into the battery pack. When the battery pack reaches approximately 98% of it's charged capacity, I would assume the charger will be in float stage. Will the charger recognize this, and alter the incoming amperage current (and show up as a much smaller value on the xantrex, ie say from current +26a to say +2a?

I ask now because I don't want to overcharge the battery pack right off the bat.

As far as setting the xantrex itself:

f01 600ah

f02 When the pack was orininally installed, the voltage reading was 27.2v. , so I assume 27.1 is reasonable

f03-f06 default

f07 I thought 22v would be about as low as I'd be comfortable with

f08 Considering the original voltage, I would think 27.3 would work

f09-f12 default

f13 I thought the 12 minute figure would be more appropriate considering our usage variences.

f14-f20 default

 

I prefer to shut off the battery power to the boat when not in use rather then run a small independent trickle charger into the pack. I usually leave a note indicating the voltage when I leave, and check it upon arrival to note the difference. Obvioiusly, as they get older, the voltage difference is generally greater, time away being equal.

Any insights into the process, or observations regarding my settings plans, or if I am misunderstanding the data/process, please feel free to comment.

Fair Winds, Sunshine, and Best Wishes to All!

Jeff Spirit Amel54 #14

 

ps sorry if there is a red line under some of the text

 

 

 

 

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] FURLING MOTORS

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Main furl and outhaul motors are the same on your SM. Genoa furler motor is different. These SM motors rarely fail. But sometimes require cleaning and brush replacements. The gearboxes on the Main furler and outhaul will probably fail before the motors, but you can probably get double the life that you have in those gearboxes by adding a method to grease the gearboxes. Two tapped holes normally filled with nylon screws, which for greasing once a year, are removed. One hole is then temporarily fitted with a grease fitting, the other hole is overflow. Pump grease until you have overflow. Remove the grease fitting and replace the nylon screws.  Search photos on this website for photos of this.

For motors, brushes for the motors and gearboxes write SAV"at"AMEL.FR. Include your hull number and it is always a good idea to include a photo of specifically what you want. Give them a list with photos and ask for availability and price. They will take a credit card.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Nov 20, 2016 12:04 PM, "pjp@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Peter Pappas here Supermamu2000 #369. I am looking to purchase spares for the Genoa Furling Motor, the Main Furling Motor, and the Main Out Haul motor. Are these all the same motor or do I need to purchase all three separately. Thanks for your help

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] xantrex/charging

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Jeff,

Before we can help we either need to know what model Xantrex charger you have, or a guide as to what those various settings are.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."






On Nov 20, 2016, at 11:07, jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Good Morning Amelians,

I just replaced my battery bank (12), and want to reset the xantrex monitoring system. I am charging the battery bank for the first time after some moderate discharging (130ah).

BTW, after the advise offered by Bill, I believe, I went with standard wet cells, $115 per, no tax.

Using the 30amp charger, I'm expecting to reach float stage at some point. I am showing (on the xantrex) +26a, and in 15 minutes (I've been charging for about 2 hrs) 33 ah, a difference of +5ah in 15 minutes. If I'm interpreting the data correctly, I take that to mean the charger has inputed 5ah of charge into the battery pack. When the battery pack reaches approximately 98% of it's charged capacity, I would assume the charger will be in float stage. Will the charger recognize this, and alter the incoming amperage current (and show up as a much smaller value on the xantrex, ie say from current +26a to say +2a?

I ask now because I don't want to overcharge the battery pack right off the bat. 

As far as setting the xantrex itself:

f01 600ah

f02 When the pack was orininally installed, the voltage reading was 27.2v. , so I assume 27.1 is reasonable

f03-f06 default

f07 I thought 22v would be about as low as I'd be comfortable with

f08 Considering the original voltage, I would think 27.3 would work

f09-f12 default

f13 I thought the 12 minute figure would be more appropriate considering our usage variences.

f14-f20 default


I prefer to shut off the battery power to the boat when not in use rather then run a small independent trickle charger into the pack. I usually leave a note indicating the voltage when I leave, and check it upon arrival to note the difference. Obvioiusly, as they get older, the voltage difference is generally greater, time away being equal.
Any insights into the process, or observations regarding my settings plans, or if I am misunderstanding the data/process, please feel free to comment.
Fair Winds, Sunshine, and Best Wishes to All!
Jeff Spirit Amel54 #14

ps sorry if there is a red line under some of the text


 




xantrex/charging

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Good Morning Amelians,

I just replaced my battery bank (12), and want to reset the xantrex monitoring system. I am charging the battery bank for the first time after some moderate discharging (130ah).

BTW, after the advise offered by Bill, I believe, I went with standard wet cells, $115 per, no tax.

Using the 30amp charger, I'm expecting to reach float stage at some point. I am showing (on the xantrex) +26a, and in 15 minutes (I've been charging for about 2 hrs) 33 ah, a difference of +5ah in 15 minutes. If I'm interpreting the data correctly, I take that to mean the charger has inputed 5ah of charge into the battery pack. When the battery pack reaches approximately 98% of it's charged capacity, I would assume the charger will be in float stage. Will the charger recognize this, and alter the incoming amperage current (and show up as a much smaller value on the xantrex, ie say from current +26a to say +2a?

I ask now because I don't want to overcharge the battery pack right off the bat.

As far as setting the xantrex itself:

f01 600ah

f02 When the pack was orininally installed, the voltage reading was 27.2v. , so I assume 27.1 is reasonable

f03-f06 default

f07 I thought 22v would be about as low as I'd be comfortable with

f08 Considering the original voltage, I would think 27.3 would work

f09-f12 default

f13 I thought the 12 minute figure would be more appropriate considering our usage variences.

f14-f20 default


I prefer to shut off the battery power to the boat when not in use rather then run a small independent trickle charger into the pack. I usually leave a note indicating the voltage when I leave, and check it upon arrival to note the difference. Obvioiusly, as they get older, the voltage difference is generally greater, time away being equal.
Any insights into the process, or observations regarding my settings plans, or if I am misunderstanding the data/process, please feel free to comment.
Fair Winds, Sunshine, and Best Wishes to All!
Jeff Spirit Amel54 #14

ps sorry if there is a red line under some of the text


 


FURLING MOTORS

peter pappas
 

Peter Pappas here Supermamu2000 #369. I am looking to purchase spares for the Genoa Furling Motor, the Main Furling Motor, and the Main Out Haul motor. Are these all the same motor or do I need to purchase all three separately. Thanks for your help

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

James Alton
 

Donato,
  The rudder is made of two halves so some evidence of a seam may be normal.  Again the Amel rudder is new to me so if an expert like Oliver responds I would be listening to him.  
   Have you tried applying moderate force to turn the rudder each way (perhaps two men pushing on the rudder TE while the rudder shaft is held in some fashion) to see if what you think is a crack opens and closes as the force is applied and released?   

Best,
James Alton
SV Sueno, Maramu #220
Arbatax, Italy

Sent from Samsung Mobile



-------- Original message --------
From: "Donato Valente ing.d.valente@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 11-20-2016 10:33 AM (GMT-04:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

Donato Valente
 

Thanks for the great help. 
We will post later some pics, but we are unable to evaluate how deep is the crack because it runs vertically along the shaft near the skeg face. So it's quite difficult to work on. 
Thanks again 
Donato 

Inviato da iPhone

Il giorno 20 nov 2016, alle ore 04:20, christian alby calbyy@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

 

I had the rudder down on our Maramu last spring
due to cracks & poor repairs done when the one of the previous owners replaced or repaired the rudder shaft following a hard rounding (pure guess work as we do not have any history for the vessel).

Step by step on how we did it on the hard
- lift up the boat so as you have at least an additional 60 cm ground clearance to allow the rudder to slip down
- shore up (vwith wooden block Under the rudder to support
- remove pilot link on rudder lever in cabin
- remove clamping bolts & nuts (3 x 10mm) on the square section top of shaft; grounding straps off; Watch out for shims on square section
- unbolt center support on rudder blade (called femelot in french); when bolts are unscrewed both flanges will open up on their own free will; do not cut grounding cable (SSB) linking to copper plate
- unbolt clamping bolts & nuts (3 x 10 mm)  on base of rudder blade (called crapaudine in french);
- support weight of rudder slipping lever beam Under, & remove wooden blocks supporting the rudder. Bring down slowly supporing by hand (two strong men can hold with ne assistant to guide).
- rudder laid down on ground you will be free t inspect & check for cracks & faulty repairs (ours was stuffed with gel coat resin & fiber to fill in around SS shaft )
- do all necessary repairs using proper methods (clean down to sane material, & rebuild using resin fiber cloth before protecting)
- take advantage to check main hull on skeg for cracks wher half hulls were assembled together (weak point on old boats can genertae cracks and water ingress if damaged)

Then you will have to reverse actions to mount back in hull ...
another story requiring patient adjusting when bolting the 'Femelot' & the 'Crapaudine', to match 2 x 3 bolt holes, & to cut to length when securely fastened.

final step will be to replace packing on top of shaft; screwing on delrin nut after each navigation until well tightened (not too much !).
check bolts on square section regularly, they come unfastened with rudder motion if not checked.

Hope this helps
fair winds 

christian alby - Maramu 168 Désirade VIII - Canet South of France
 




De : "Donato Valente ing.d.valente@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
À : amelyachtowners@...
Envoyé le : Dimanche 20 novembre 2016 2h53
Objet : Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

 
Many thanks Joel for the precious and comforting information. 
Still waiting some kind sailor who can give us suggestions for rudder dismantling. 

Thanks

Donato 


Inviato da iPhone

Il giorno 19 nov 2016, alle ore 19:16, 'Joel Potter' jfpottercys@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

 
No, the rudder is designed to be full of water to add a dampening effect. It is normal for it to pee like a cow on a flat rock. If it does not, you might have a problem.  Make sure the exit hole is not corrupted with marine growth. As you use the boat and have occasion to look under the water line, it is a good idea to have the appropriate tool to be sure that this exit hole is free and clear.  Properly sized Philips head screwdrivers works well for most of us. Insert it into the drain hole and give it a 360 degree exercise.
 
When I give the Amel School to my buyer clients, this is addressed as it is so very important that sea water has easy in and out movement from the rudder.
 
Please, sellers, spend a few days with the new owners of your now sold boat to pass knowledge along that will ensure the survival of the brand . This is for the common good. Trust me…
 
Please feel free to call me if you need a solid explanation about this.
 
 
Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
954 462 5869 office
954 812 2485 cell
 
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2016 6:31 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle
 
 
Good day.
We put the sm2000 on the hard and found on hauling the boat out large quantity of water flowing from the hole on bottom of the rudder. Shouldn't be a cap on the hole ?
Secondly we must service the rudder because of some cracks on the surface.
We need your advice for dismantling the rudder. We never did it before, so will appreciate how to proceed.
Thanks for your help.
Donato

SM2000 Ocean Bird #468
In Linton Bay, Panama

Inviato da iPhone


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

christian alby <calbyy@...>
 

I had the rudder down on our Maramu last spring
due to cracks & poor repairs done when the one of the previous owners replaced or repaired the rudder shaft following a hard rounding (pure guess work as we do not have any history for the vessel).

Step by step on how we did it on the hard
- lift up the boat so as you have at least an additional 60 cm ground clearance to allow the rudder to slip down
- shore up (vwith wooden block Under the rudder to support
- remove pilot link on rudder lever in cabin
- remove clamping bolts & nuts (3 x 10mm) on the square section top of shaft; grounding straps off; Watch out for shims on square section
- unbolt center support on rudder blade (called femelot in french); when bolts are unscrewed both flanges will open up on their own free will; do not cut grounding cable (SSB) linking to copper plate
- unbolt clamping bolts & nuts (3 x 10 mm)  on base of rudder blade (called crapaudine in french);
- support weight of rudder slipping lever beam Under, & remove wooden blocks supporting the rudder. Bring down slowly supporing by hand (two strong men can hold with ne assistant to guide).
- rudder laid down on ground you will be free t inspect & check for cracks & faulty repairs (ours was stuffed with gel coat resin & fiber to fill in around SS shaft )
- do all necessary repairs using proper methods (clean down to sane material, & rebuild using resin fiber cloth before protecting)
- take advantage to check main hull on skeg for cracks wher half hulls were assembled together (weak point on old boats can genertae cracks and water ingress if damaged)

Then you will have to reverse actions to mount back in hull ...
another story requiring patient adjusting when bolting the 'Femelot' & the 'Crapaudine', to match 2 x 3 bolt holes, & to cut to length when securely fastened.

final step will be to replace packing on top of shaft; screwing on delrin nut after each navigation until well tightened (not too much !).
check bolts on square section regularly, they come unfastened with rudder motion if not checked.

Hope this helps
fair winds 

christian alby - Maramu 168 Désirade VIII - Canet South of France
 




De : "Donato Valente ing.d.valente@... [amelyachtowners]"
À : amelyachtowners@...
Envoyé le : Dimanche 20 novembre 2016 2h53
Objet : Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

 
Many thanks Joel for the precious and comforting information. 
Still waiting some kind sailor who can give us suggestions for rudder dismantling. 

Thanks

Donato 


Inviato da iPhone

Il giorno 19 nov 2016, alle ore 19:16, 'Joel Potter' jfpottercys@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

 
No, the rudder is designed to be full of water to add a dampening effect. It is normal for it to pee like a cow on a flat rock. If it does not, you might have a problem.  Make sure the exit hole is not corrupted with marine growth. As you use the boat and have occasion to look under the water line, it is a good idea to have the appropriate tool to be sure that this exit hole is free and clear.  Properly sized Philips head screwdrivers works well for most of us. Insert it into the drain hole and give it a 360 degree exercise.
 
When I give the Amel School to my buyer clients, this is addressed as it is so very important that sea water has easy in and out movement from the rudder.
 
Please, sellers, spend a few days with the new owners of your now sold boat to pass knowledge along that will ensure the survival of the brand . This is for the common good. Trust me…
 
Please feel free to call me if you need a solid explanation about this.
 
 
Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
954 462 5869 office
954 812 2485 cell
 
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2016 6:31 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle
 
 
Good day.
We put the sm2000 on the hard and found on hauling the boat out large quantity of water flowing from the hole on bottom of the rudder. Shouldn't be a cap on the hole ?
Secondly we must service the rudder because of some cracks on the surface.
We need your advice for dismantling the rudder. We never did it before, so will appreciate how to proceed.
Thanks for your help.
Donato

SM2000 Ocean Bird #468
In Linton Bay, Panama

Inviato da iPhone


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Older Super Maramu Raw Water Manifold

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Bill & al,

We did something different; we installed a second independent “sea chest” serving the needs of AC, genset and Dessalator.  As our new AC is Webasto, it needed significantly more water.  So we went for a 2 inch feed from the hull and sized the feeder pipes according to the manufacturer recommendations for each service.

We also removed the Original “seachest” sea cock and to my amazement, the hole had been wilfully partially obstructed to reduce the entry size to .75 inch…. 

New components are SS except for the water strainers which are bronze if I recall (I’d have to look).  We also added a 1 1/2 inch connector line with shut off valve to ensure feed to the main engine should its strainer become blocked.  The work was done in Majorca by Peter Kuklok, (Yacht Concept Majorca) the best marine engineer I’ve ever met.

We now have a fully safe dual system.

Kind regards,



Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM007
Lanzarote… waiting for the “trades” to set… looks like a long wait in store.



On 20 Nov 2016, at 02:00, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill from BeBe has posted some very helpful information about the raw water manifold in newer model SM's. For those of us with older boats, the arrangement is quite different, and in most ways a lot simpler.


If you haven't gotten the memo, and you have an older boat, be sure to inspect this system carefully.  Joel Potter has pointed out that some older boats have had significant corrosion issues with this Amel manufactured copper piece. It would really ruin your day if it failed offshore!


In our current haulout, I completely disassembled the raw water system, and was lucky enough to find everything in excellent order.  If you have an older SM, take a look here: 


Raw Water Manifold Inspection


Bill Kinney 

SM #160, Harmonie

On the hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL

"Ships and men rot in port."

fetchinketch





Jean-Pierre Germain,
+44 7551 211 511
jp.germain@...

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Donato,

removing the rudder blade is not a quick and easy job...
Before telling you how to do it, I would like to know what is the extent of the cracks. Did you hit something or came aground? A sma11 to medium hit and consequent cracks are usually repairable on the spot, without dismantling the rudder from its location.

You could send one or two pictures to help.

Have a good day.

Olivier.


On Sunday, November 20, 2016 3:44 AM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Donato,

   I am sure that someone will be back to you soon on how to remove your rudder.  I thought that I would direct you to the File section of this Owners group where under “Amel Drawings” there are 7 pages of drawings on the Super Maramu rudder which might be helpful.  Also, if you have not already done so, take some photos of the “surface cracks” that are of concern to you since they could be helpful in giving some direction.  The rudder on my boat has some cracks in the areas around the hinge points that is only a fairing compound applied over the fittings to smooth things up and as such are not a problem,  you did not say where yours were.  My Amel is relatively new to me so again best to have one of the experts direct you through the removal process but I will say from having worked on boats all my life for a living that the Amel rudders are very well constructed and unlikely to fail barring major damage.  I would evaluate the cracks that you are seeing before making a determination to remove the rudder.

Best,

James Alton
SV, Sueno, Maramu #220
Arbatax,  Italy

On Nov 19, 2016, at 9:53 PM, Donato Valente ing.d.valente@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Many thanks Joel for the precious and comforting information. 
Still waiting some kind sailor who can give us suggestions for rudder dismantling. 

Thanks

Donato 





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

James Alton
 

Donato,

   I am sure that someone will be back to you soon on how to remove your rudder.  I thought that I would direct you to the File section of this Owners group where under “Amel Drawings” there are 7 pages of drawings on the Super Maramu rudder which might be helpful.  Also, if you have not already done so, take some photos of the “surface cracks” that are of concern to you since they could be helpful in giving some direction.  The rudder on my boat has some cracks in the areas around the hinge points that is only a fairing compound applied over the fittings to smooth things up and as such are not a problem,  you did not say where yours were.  My Amel is relatively new to me so again best to have one of the experts direct you through the removal process but I will say from having worked on boats all my life for a living that the Amel rudders are very well constructed and unlikely to fail barring major damage.  I would evaluate the cracks that you are seeing before making a determination to remove the rudder.

Best,

James Alton
SV, Sueno, Maramu #220
Arbatax,  Italy

On Nov 19, 2016, at 9:53 PM, Donato Valente ing.d.valente@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Many thanks Joel for the precious and comforting information. 
Still waiting some kind sailor who can give us suggestions for rudder dismantling. 

Thanks

Donato 



Older Super Maramu Raw Water Manifold

greatketch@...
 

Bill from BeBe has posted some very helpful information about the raw water manifold in newer model SM's. For those of us with older boats, the arrangement is quite different, and in most ways a lot simpler.


If you haven't gotten the memo, and you have an older boat, be sure to inspect this system carefully.  Joel Potter has pointed out that some older boats have had significant corrosion issues with this Amel manufactured copper piece. It would really ruin your day if it failed offshore!


In our current haulout, I completely disassembled the raw water system, and was lucky enough to find everything in excellent order.  If you have an older SM, take a look here: 


Raw Water Manifold Inspection


Bill Kinney 

SM #160, Harmonie

On the hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL

"Ships and men rot in port."

fetchinketch



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

Donato Valente
 

Many thanks Joel for the precious and comforting information. 
Still waiting some kind sailor who can give us suggestions for rudder dismantling. 

Thanks

Donato 


Inviato da iPhone

Il giorno 19 nov 2016, alle ore 19:16, 'Joel Potter' jfpottercys@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

 

No, the rudder is designed to be full of water to add a dampening effect. It is normal for it to pee like a cow on a flat rock. If it does not, you might have a problem.  Make sure the exit hole is not corrupted with marine growth. As you use the boat and have occasion to look under the water line, it is a good idea to have the appropriate tool to be sure that this exit hole is free and clear.  Properly sized Philips head screwdrivers works well for most of us. Insert it into the drain hole and give it a 360 degree exercise.

 

When I give the Amel School to my buyer clients, this is addressed as it is so very important that sea water has easy in and out movement from the rudder.

 

Please, sellers, spend a few days with the new owners of your now sold boat to pass knowledge along that will ensure the survival of the brand . This is for the common good. Trust me…

 

Please feel free to call me if you need a solid explanation about this.

 

 

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2016 6:31 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

 

 

Good day.
We put the sm2000 on the hard and found on hauling the boat out large quantity of water flowing from the hole on bottom of the rudder. Shouldn't be a cap on the hole ?
Secondly we must service the rudder because of some cracks on the surface.
We need your advice for dismantling the rudder. We never did it before, so will appreciate how to proceed.
Thanks for your help.
Donato

SM2000 Ocean Bird #468
In Linton Bay, Panama

Inviato da iPhone

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

JOHN HAYES
 

Thanks for this info. Same happened to me when I slipped my Santorin. Unfortunately we thought it must have hit a brick and so dried it out and glassed it up!!

Guess we now need to slip again and drill a new hole.  Bugger !


On 20/11/2016, at 1:16 PM, 'Joel Potter' jfpottercys@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

No, the rudder is designed to be full of water to add a dampening effect. It is normal for it to pee like a cow on a flat rock. If it does not, you might have a problem.  Make sure the exit hole is not corrupted with marine growth. As you use the boat and have occasion to look under the water line, it is a good idea to have the appropriate tool to be sure that this exit hole is free and clear.  Properly sized Philips head screwdrivers works well for most of us. Insert it into the drain hole and give it a 360 degree exercise.

 

When I give the Amel School to my buyer clients, this is addressed as it is so very important that sea water has easy in and out movement from the rudder.

 

Please, sellers, spend a few days with the new owners of your now sold boat to pass knowledge along that will ensure the survival of the brand . This is for the common good. Trust me…

 

Please feel free to call me if you need a solid explanation about this.

 

 

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2016 6:31 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

 

 

Good day.
We put the sm2000 on the hard and found on hauling the boat out large quantity of water flowing from the hole on bottom of the rudder. Shouldn't be a cap on the hole ?
Secondly we must service the rudder because of some cracks on the surface.
We need your advice for dismantling the rudder. We never did it before, so will appreciate how to proceed.
Thanks for your help.
Donato

SM2000 Ocean Bird #468
In Linton Bay, Panama

Inviato da iPhone

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

amelforme
 

No, the rudder is designed to be full of water to add a dampening effect. It is normal for it to pee like a cow on a flat rock. If it does not, you might have a problem.  Make sure the exit hole is not corrupted with marine growth. As you use the boat and have occasion to look under the water line, it is a good idea to have the appropriate tool to be sure that this exit hole is free and clear.  Properly sized Philips head screwdrivers works well for most of us. Insert it into the drain hole and give it a 360 degree exercise.

 

When I give the Amel School to my buyer clients, this is addressed as it is so very important that sea water has easy in and out movement from the rudder.

 

Please, sellers, spend a few days with the new owners of your now sold boat to pass knowledge along that will ensure the survival of the brand . This is for the common good. Trust me…

 

Please feel free to call me if you need a solid explanation about this.

 

 

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2016 6:31 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

 

 

Good day.
We put the sm2000 on the hard and found on hauling the boat out large quantity of water flowing from the hole on bottom of the rudder. Shouldn't be a cap on the hole ?
Secondly we must service the rudder because of some cracks on the surface.
We need your advice for dismantling the rudder. We never did it before, so will appreciate how to proceed.
Thanks for your help.
Donato

SM2000 Ocean Bird #468
In Linton Bay, Panama

Inviato da iPhone

Rudder dismantle

Donato Valente
 

Good day.
We put the sm2000 on the hard and found on hauling the boat out large quantity of water flowing from the hole on bottom of the rudder. Shouldn't be a cap on the hole ?
Secondly we must service the rudder because of some cracks on the surface.
We need your advice for dismantling the rudder. We never did it before, so will appreciate how to proceed.
Thanks for your help.
Donato

SM2000 Ocean Bird #468
In Linton Bay, Panama


Inviato da iPhone

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New sails

James Alton
 

Alan,

   Many thanks for the details on the running backs setup.  I was curious if they had used the mizzen chainplate or had added a point further forward.

Best,

James
Sueno, Maramu #220

On Nov 19, 2016, at 6:40 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

The dyneema stays run from the top spreader on the main mast to a block which is about 50cm off the deck when hanging straight down. At the mizzen chain plate there's a block with a becket. Tied to the becket is 12mm spectra up to the block on the dyneema line, back to the block at the chain plate and thence to a winch, smaller than the main sheet winch, aft of the main sheet winch, or when not in use, to a cleat on the aft cabin top. That gives a 2:1 purchase for easily tightening the stay.

When not in use there's a double block with a cam cleat at the main chain plate that hooks the dyneema block and holds it down when the spectra line is hauled tight and cleated off.
This is all pretty standard stuff on any boat that has running backstays to support an inner forestay.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New sails

Alan Leslie
 

The dyneema stays run from the top spreader on the main mast to a block which is about 50cm off the deck when hanging straight down. At the mizzen chain plate there's a block with a becket. Tied to the becket is 12mm spectra up to the block on the dyneema line, back to the block at the chain plate and thence to a winch, smaller than the main sheet winch, aft of the main sheet winch, or when not in use, to a cleat on the aft cabin top. That gives a 2:1 purchase for easily tightening the stay.
When not in use there's a double block with a cam cleat at the main chain plate that hooks the dyneema block and holds it down when the spectra line is hauled tight and cleated off.
This is all pretty standard stuff on any boat that has running backstays to support an inner forestay.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New sails

James Alton
 

Alan,

  It must be really nice to have a well shaped headsail for winds up into the 30 plus knot range available.  I guess it would not be too hard to change the staysail for a storm jib when needed to complete your inventory if you really wanted, but if you are into a wind range that you are going to be hove then perhaps the loss of shape reefed is not a concern.    I will keep the idea of adding a staysail  in mind since the idea of having a reefed 150 out in a lot of wind would concern me a lot.   

  Can you tell me how Amel setup the dyneema running backs on your boat?

Thanks for sharing your setup details,

James Alton
SV, Sueno,  Maramu #220
Arbatax,  Italy

On Nov 19, 2016, at 5:23 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

The staysail is actually quite small, we have had it unreefed in 30 knots plus, and two reefs hove to in 50+.

Like all roller furling sails it does not have a good shape when reefed, too much belly in it.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437