Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Speaking of temperatures and alarms

greatketch@...
 

There certainly are days when I feel like I live in the engine room!  (today being a good example!) Other days I am convinced there are gremlins who live down there, and I have no interest at all in making them comfortable!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD


Manual Mainsail Furling Gearbox

Duane Siegfri
 

I have a "for parts" manual mainsail gearbox if anyone is interested.  The top bearing was rusted out and the top of the outside case was damaged getting it out, but it still appears functional.  It will need a new thrust bearing on top, a new bearing on the bottom, a new oil seal on top & bottom and a wear sleeve at the upper oil seal (due to pitting of the shaft).


If you're interested, email me at carlylelk"at"aol"dot"com


Duane

Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine exhaust hull fitting and copper water lines [1 Attachment]

James Alton
 

John,

   Silicone caulking can withstand considerably more heat than the polyurethane such as the 3m 5200.  For a bit more money you can buy silicone caulking such as the Dow Corning 3145 which has considerably more strength than the generic materials but it will be considerably harder to remove by either the Ocean or yourself.  Unlike polyurathenes, heating the parts that you want to separate does not work well with the silicone caulking which might be a consideration.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno, Maramu #220.



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 10/6/17 20:42 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine exhaust hull fitting and copper water lines [1 Attachment]

 

Spent the morning and good part of the afternoon attaching the new exhaust hose to what I am calling the Amel thru-hull adapter.  In the photo it is the metal piece.  The new hose had the same OD as the old hose and is wire re-enforced.


I used 3M Marine silicone between the hose and the adapter.  It acted as a lubricant during installation and as a sealant after it sets up. While not normally a sealant I would use at the waterline silicone was used previously and did not leak, and I believe Olivier said silicone was what Amel used during production.    A consideration is that unlike 3M 5200 or 4200 siliconed parts can be separated later.  

The fit between the hose and adapter was breathtakingly tight.  As you can see in the photo I had to make use of a ratchet strap to finally pull the fitting onto the hose.  Tomorrow with help from my XX chromosomed  assistant we will clean out the hull fitting and reinsert the adapter plus hose. 

I purchased an extra hose clamp that I intent to fasten about where the one is in the photo and attach a wire between it and the shelf over the thru-hull to lock the exhaust assembly in place. 

                                Regards,  John

 John Clark
SV Annie  SM 37
Morehead City NC
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine exhaust hull fitting and copper water lines

John Clark
 

Spent the morning and good part of the afternoon attaching the new exhaust hose to what I am calling the Amel thru-hull adapter.  In the photo it is the metal piece.  The new hose had the same OD as the old hose and is wire re-enforced.

I used 3M Marine silicone between the hose and the adapter.  It acted as a lubricant during installation and as a sealant after it sets up. While not normally a sealant I would use at the waterline silicone was used previously and did not leak, and I believe Olivier said silicone was what Amel used during production.    A consideration is that unlike 3M 5200 or 4200 siliconed parts can be separated later.  

The fit between the hose and adapter was breathtakingly tight.  As you can see in the photo I had to make use of a ratchet strap to finally pull the fitting onto the hose.  Tomorrow with help from my XX chromosomed  assistant we will clean out the hull fitting and reinsert the adapter plus hose. 

I purchased an extra hose clamp that I intent to fasten about where the one is in the photo and attach a wire between it and the shelf over the thru-hull to lock the exhaust assembly in place. 

                                Regards,  John

 John Clark
SV Annie  SM 37
Morehead City NC
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine exhaust hull fitting and copper water lines

John Clark
 

Hi Eric,
   thanks again.  I seem to remember the Rust Block primer from my submarine days.  Yes is was quite effective, but I think it was for ferrous metals more so than copper.    What I learned about copper corrosion augmented by salt water is that there are salt ions in sea water that act as a catalyst for the oxidation of the copper.  Even if the initial source of water is corrected the ions can attract moisture out of the air, just like a desiccant pack.  The prescribed remedy is to clean the pipe and flush the ions off the surface, dry, and then coat with a protectant, perhaps Rust Block.   The challenge I have is that the pipe surface is no longer smooth and has a lot of little cracks and crevasses that would require aggressive cleaning to clear out the catalyst. For my case cleaning might actually do more damage.  Second the location, behind the generator is not the easiest to access nor a place that I want to put a lot of flushing water. 
 
 My "in a perfect world" choice would be to replace the affected stretch of line, but again given its location I don't want to try to brazing in that space.   Maybe when the water heater needs replacing or it's time for a new generator and I have better access I will replace the lines. 

I opted to try the Corrosion X because I have good visual access to the site, and the lines are not presently leaking, replacement of the exhaust hose and repair of the adapter insert will eliminate the source of the water so the lines should remain dry going forward.   Corrosion X's primary anti-corrosion mechanism is to block access to the surface of the metal. This should block the O2 and moisture from contacting the metal.  Corrosion X also claims to be able to displace the catalyst ions.  Don't know about that but we shall see how it does.   

Yes, I have currently hoses that I can use to bypass the affected area should it start leaking.    I also placed on of my water detectors in the pocket under the tubing to detect leakage.  I will headed to Martinique in a few months and see if Jean Collin has any ideas or correct sized tubing.

                               Thanks Guys,
 John Clark
SV Annie  SM 37
Morehead City, NC

On Thu, Oct 5, 2017 at 8:42 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

John,

My friend Eric Forsyth swears by Rust Bullet. I can attest to its efficacy.

Eric incidentally has logged 375,000 miles on his home built 42 foot west sail. 2 circumnavigations, northwest passage, many times to the Antarctic. He is headed to Portugal from Madera at age 85 as we speak.

If you have a time look at his website and his book that was just published.

He is also a CCA Blue water medal recipient.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2017 11:18 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine exhaust hull fitting and copper water lines

 

 

Thanks Eric and Bill.  

 

I spent the morning with Dr. Google learning about copper corrosion. Seems that there is a lot of chemistry involved and that the corrosion can be tough to knock out without aggressive cleaning.

 

 I like the idea of painting the lines, but they first need to be cleaned better than I am able to do in that particular corner of the ER.  I did clean off the loose blue flaky stuff and vacuum the area, but cannot get in there to wet clean and flush the lines.  My concern with a non neutralizing paint is that the corrosion can continue, and I won't see it.   



Corrosion X claims on their website that it can displace the salts that are causing the corrosion on the copper lines then protect them with a waxy film.  What do you think about Corrosion X instead of paint?   To me an "advantage" is that I can visually monitor the situation and if corrosion persists then replace the lines before they leak. 



 I think I will get a micrometer down there today and figure out the line size and see if I can get some "spare" tubing to have on hand just in case.   



                    Regards,  John

 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Speaking of temperatures and alarms

Porter McRoberts
 

It would also help the hominid that seems to live down there!


On Oct 5, 2017, at 6:33 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I was actually thinking about adding a 24 Volt blower, not running it off the 12 volt starting battery.  Adding a snap switch thermostat that came on at temperatures of 120F (50C) or so.


Not a high priority project, but just something that I hope would help my electronics that live in the engine room...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD


Re: Sail plans for maramu

smiles bernard
 

thanks very much - very helpful
She does have isomat masts but it sounds like you are suggesting even these varied somewhat
I do have details of the rig dimensions on the boat - not sure if the are spot on but i can check them - we have mast steps so shouldn't take too long hopefully
I'll do that when next on the boat - sadly not till christmas
Many thanks again for your help
Fair winds
Miles


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Vetus Alarm

karkauai
 

I added raw water flow alarms in the hoses between the sea chest and the Yanmar and ONAN.  Both already have exhaust temp alarms and the Yanmar has an exhaust temp cut-off switch.  If something causes the exhaust temp to go up enough to alarm or shut off the engine, the impeller is toast.  With the flow rate alarm, I picked up a bunch of trash that stopped up the sea chest strainer.  The alarm started to sound, and I immediately  shut the Yanmar down and cleaned the strainer.  Back up and running in 3 min without having to change the hard-to-get-to raw water impeller.


Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine exhaust hull fitting and copper water lines

eric freedman
 

John,

My friend Eric Forsyth swears by Rust Bullet. I can attest to its efficacy.

Eric incidentally has logged 375,000 miles on his home built 42 foot west sail. 2 circumnavigations, northwest passage, many times to the Antarctic. He is headed to Portugal from Madera at age 85 as we speak.

If you have a time look at his website and his book that was just published.

He is also a CCA Blue water medal recipient.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2017 11:18 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine exhaust hull fitting and copper water lines

 

 

Thanks Eric and Bill.  

 

I spent the morning with Dr. Google learning about copper corrosion. Seems that there is a lot of chemistry involved and that the corrosion can be tough to knock out without aggressive cleaning.

 

 I like the idea of painting the lines, but they first need to be cleaned better than I am able to do in that particular corner of the ER.  I did clean off the loose blue flaky stuff and vacuum the area, but cannot get in there to wet clean and flush the lines.  My concern with a non neutralizing paint is that the corrosion can continue, and I won't see it.   



Corrosion X claims on their website that it can displace the salts that are causing the corrosion on the copper lines then protect them with a waxy film.  What do you think about Corrosion X instead of paint?   To me an "advantage" is that I can visually monitor the situation and if corrosion persists then replace the lines before they leak. 



 I think I will get a micrometer down there today and figure out the line size and see if I can get some "spare" tubing to have on hand just in case.   



                    Regards,  John

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge Pump Quit

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Have you tried sav"at"amel.fr. They had some 2 years ago. Also Emek Marine had some recently.  cagdas"at"emekmarin.com

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Oct 5, 2017 6:25 PM, "Ken Powers sailingaquarius@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Any Help Will be appreciated!

Our bilge pump was running for what seemed a long time.  So I went down to see what was up.  I found the motor running, but not pumping.  The motor drive a plastic gear that broke.

Does anyone know where I can get this part, or maybe I have to get a new bilge pump.  :)

Thanks in advance,

Ken Po wers
Aquarius SM2K #262
In Trinidad Crews Inn




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine exhaust hull fitting and copper water lines

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Sounds good as long as you are monitoring, and have something to use for emergency repair. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Oct 5, 2017 11:17 AM, "john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Eric and Bill.  


I spent the morning with Dr. Google learning about copper corrosion. Seems that there is a lot of chemistry involved and that the corrosion can be tough to knock out without aggressive cleaning.

 I like the idea of painting the lines, but they first need to be cleaned better than I am able to do in that particular corner of the ER.  I did clean off the loose blue flaky stuff and vacuum the area, but cannot get in there to wet clean and flush the lines.  My concern with a non neutralizing paint is that the corrosion can continue, and I won't see it.   

Corrosion X claims on their website that it can displace the salts that are causing the corrosion on the copper lines then protect th em with a waxy film.  What do you think about Corrosion X instead of paint?   To me an "advantage" is that I can visually monitor the situation and if corrosion persists then replace the lines before they leak. 

 I think I will get a micrometer down there today and figure out the line size and see if I can get some "spare" tubing to have on hand just in case.   

                    Regards,  John


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel 54 [1 Attachment]

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Anti-siphon system for either your Volvo or Onan. Was there a particular part you are asking about?


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Oct 5, 2017 9:45 AM, "Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
[Attachment(s) from Peter Forbes included below]

Can any wise person tell me what this device is for and how I find a plastic replacement in Europe?

Peter Forbes
Amel 54 #035 
Grenada



Re: Bilge Pump Quit

Alan Leslie
 

We had exactly the same problem.
The prices for replacement parts were ridiculously high so we replaced it with a Johnson Viking 32.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Speaking of temperatures and alarms

greatketch@...
 

I was actually thinking about adding a 24 Volt blower, not running it off the 12 volt starting battery.  Adding a snap switch thermostat that came on at temperatures of 120F (50C) or so.

Not a high priority project, but just something that I hope would help my electronics that live in the engine room...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD


Bilge Pump Quit

Ken Powers <sailingaquarius@...>
 

Any Help Will be appreciated!

Our bilge pump was running for what seemed a long time.  So I went down to see what was up.  I found the motor running, but not pumping.  The motor drive a plastic gear that broke.

Does anyone know where I can get this part, or maybe I have to get a new bilge pump.  :)

Thanks in advance,

Ken Powers
Aquarius SM2K #262
In Trinidad Crews Inn



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Speaking of temperatures and alarms

Ryan Meador
 

I've been contemplating making this change myself, particularly since my 12V blower doesn't work right now (the blower and breakers are fine, there is a power problem upstream that I haven't been able to figure out yet).  I was wondering if perhaps I need a 12V charging system to keep my starting battery topped up over the winter when it isn't in use.  If I were to add such a thing, then running the blower becomes a no-brainer.  Has anyone added a 12V charger, and if so, how did you go about it?  Does it charge from 230VAC or from 24VDC?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

On Thu, Oct 5, 2017 at 10:56 AM, Stephen Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

It would not be difficult to do, but I'd be worried about discharging the 12v starting battery since the blowers are 12v, and are high draw items. We typically open the engine room hatch for a few minutes after shutting down to allow some of the heat to escape. It works and is low tech.

Steve Davis
Aloha SM72

On Thu, Oct 5, 2017 at 9:33 AM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Has anyone rigged a thermostat to run a blower when the engine (or genset) are not running, but the engine room is really hot?  Typically our engine room gets quite hot AFTER the main engine has been shut down, the blowers stop, and the heat soaks out of the block.


It gets hot enough it starts to approach the upper specification temperatures for some of the electrical gear.


I have a couple ideas on how to go about it, but maybe someone else has had a better idea...


Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Back Creek, Annapolis, MD




Re: Sail plans for maramu

Dave_Benjamin
 

On the older Amel's, I don't trust "sailplans" because Amel sourced the masts from Isomat and others, and there can be some minor variations. On the Super Maramu, 54's, 55's, and 64's, we have all the relevant information courtesy of Chantiers Amel and it's quite reliable.
So there is only one right away to assure proper fitting sails and that is to measure the rig on your Maramu. 
It's a simple process and we've helped 100's of people get through the process since the majority of our loft clients are not local to us. If you can't manage the measurements on your own, I'd hire a rigger for the short amount of time it takes to measure. 


Re: COCO Amel 53 2000 sail sizes

Dave_Benjamin
 

Actually the stock Amel genoas exceed 155%. 155% is an arbitrary limitation for racing headsails, beyond which handicap penalties apply. On a cruising boat, we don't care about such things. As one of the few sailmakers who has not only sailed extensively on an Amel, but owned one, I've seen some poorly designed sails on other Amel yachts due to sailmakers who don't understand the twin pole arrangement and other aspects of the Amel. 
Reducing the overlap percentage beyond a certain point makes the headsail impractical to use with the poles but some owners like to carry a smaller headsail for upwind passages. Reducing the overlap and insuring the sail will sheet properly isn't difficult but does require some additional measurement. When we measure, we not only record the horizontal distances from the stem to the track fore and aft ends but also capture those measurements from aloft and combine this with some measurements at select points down to the water which gives us sufficient data to very accurately model the rig in our design software. 



Re: Engine exhaust hull fitting and copper water lines

John Clark
 

Thanks Eric and Bill.  

I spent the morning with Dr. Google learning about copper corrosion. Seems that there is a lot of chemistry involved and that the corrosion can be tough to knock out without aggressive cleaning.

 I like the idea of painting the lines, but they first need to be cleaned better than I am able to do in that particular corner of the ER.  I did clean off the loose blue flaky stuff and vacuum the area, but cannot get in there to wet clean and flush the lines.  My concern with a non neutralizing paint is that the corrosion can continue, and I won't see it.   

Corrosion X claims on their website that it can displace the salts that are causing the corrosion on the copper lines then protect them with a waxy film.  What do you think about Corrosion X instead of paint?   To me an "advantage" is that I can visually monitor the situation and if corrosion persists then replace the lines before they leak. 

 I think I will get a micrometer down there today and figure out the line size and see if I can get some "spare" tubing to have on hand just in case.   

                    Regards,  John


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Speaking of temperatures and alarms

Stephen Davis
 

It would not be difficult to do, but I'd be worried about discharging the 12v starting battery since the blowers are 12v, and are high draw items. We typically open the engine room hatch for a few minutes after shutting down to allow some of the heat to escape. It works and is low tech.

Steve Davis
Aloha SM72

On Thu, Oct 5, 2017 at 9:33 AM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Has anyone rigged a thermostat to run a blower when the engine (or genset) are not running, but the engine room is really hot?  Typically our engine room gets quite hot AFTER the main engine has been shut down, the blowers stop, and the heat soaks out of the block.


It gets hot enough it starts to approach the upper specification temperatures for some of the electrical gear.


I have a couple ideas on how to go about it, but maybe someone else has had a better idea...


Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Back Creek, Annapolis, MD