Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Door Alignment

Peter Forbes
 

Mine all look square and aligned. But the top cover lid to the plate stowage (large door on starboard side) always squeaks when we are sailing along - annoying at night if I am snoozing on aft settee so we put a piece of cloth in it.

Peter
Peter Forbes
0044 7836 209730
Carango  Sailing Ketch
Amel 54 #035
In a Hurricane cradle in Grenada

On 4 Jul 2017, at 09:31, trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hello 54 Owners,
The portside locker double-doors in the saloon of an Amel 54 I'm looking at seem to have an alignment problem. The forwardmost door is lower at the handle side than the aftmost door by about 5mm. The pushbutton handles look a little out of alignment, and the doors do not sit square in the frame.

Furthermore, the starboard locker doors have exactly the same misalignment.

I'm interested to know, do others have this feature in their 54's?

I tried to attach a picture but this Yahoo platform continually conspires to defeat me! 

Many thanks
Dean
Amel 54 "Still Looking" #TBD



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Door Alignment

amelforme
 

I think Wolfgang  is absolutely correct. I was selling a Amel 54 that had the exact same condition with misaligned doors in the saloon cabinets. I had an idea what the problem was, so I asked the owner to give me something I knew was inside the misaligned cabinets. Sure enough, when the owner opened the cabinet, he grabbed onto the top of the door to help support himself as he reached inside. The hinges are strong enough to bend slightly without breaking or becoming ‘wobbly’ and they can, in fact, move around a little on their mounts.  Having seen so many Amel boats in all phases of construction over more than 30 years, I can promise confidently that if there were other structural matters with deformation causing the cabinet doors to misalign, there would be easily observed catastrophic failure on the structural elements that support the cabinet door hinges. Inside the cabinets, the bolt that secures the hinge has a nut which bears down on a flat washer. Easy to loosen the nut and realign the door, then take the boat out and go sailing in some good breeze and check the alignment again.

 

All The Best, Joel

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2017 4:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: AW: [Amel Yacht Owners] Door Alignment

 

 

I think I have 1-2  mm

 

May be some one opened the door and hang up a little at the door when the boat moves in the waves ? Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54

 

-------- Ursprüngliche Nachricht --------

Datum: 04.07.17 10:31 (GMT+01:00)

Betreff: [Amel Yacht Owners] Door Alignment

 

 

Hello 54 Owners,
The portside locker double-doors in the saloon of an Amel 54 I'm looking at seem to have an alignment problem. The forwardmost door is lower at the handle side than the aftmost door by about 5mm. The pushbutton handles look a little out of alignment, and the doors do not sit square in the frame.

Furthermore, the starboard locker doors have exactly the same misalignment.

I'm interested to know, do others have this feature in their 54's?

I tried to attach a picture but this Yahoo platform continually conspires to defeat me!

Many thanks
Dean
Amel 54 "Still Looking" #TBD


Re: Door Alignment

Alan Leslie
 

We don't have issues with any of the cupboard doors or cabin doors on our Super Maramu....what could be happening ??

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437 


Re: Door Alignment Amel 54

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi Dean,
It looks the same on ours.
We did notice it but didn't consider it a cause for concern.

Good luck with your search,
Soraya

--
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Cap d'Agde, France


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Door Alignment

webercardio <webercardio@...>
 

I think I have 1-2  mm

May be some one opened the door and hang up a little at the door when the boat moves in the waves ? Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54

-------- Ursprüngliche Nachricht --------
Von: "trifin@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Datum: 04.07.17 10:31 (GMT+01:00)
An: amelyachtowners@...
Betreff: [Amel Yacht Owners] Door Alignment

 

Hello 54 Owners,
The portside locker double-doors in the saloon of an Amel 54 I'm looking at seem to have an alignment problem. The forwardmost door is lower at the handle side than the aftmost door by about 5mm. The pushbutton handles look a little out of alignment, and the doors do not sit square in the frame.

Furthermore, the starboard locker doors have exactly the same misalignment.

I'm interested to know, do others have this feature in their 54's?

I tried to attach a picture but this Yahoo platform continually conspires to defeat me!

Many thanks
Dean
Amel 54 "Still Looking" #TBD


Re: Door Alignment

Dean Gillies
 

I managed to post the photograph.


Door Alignment

Dean Gillies
 

Hello 54 Owners,
The portside locker double-doors in the saloon of an Amel 54 I'm looking at seem to have an alignment problem. The forwardmost door is lower at the handle side than the aftmost door by about 5mm. The pushbutton handles look a little out of alignment, and the doors do not sit square in the frame.

Furthermore, the starboard locker doors have exactly the same misalignment.

I'm interested to know, do others have this feature in their 54's?

I tried to attach a picture but this Yahoo platform continually conspires to defeat me!

Many thanks
Dean
Amel 54 "Still Looking" #TBD


SM Antal Jib sheet car parts

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi all:


One of my Antal jib sheet cars had failure of the plastic runners that line the cars and provide the bearing surface upon which the car slides on the "T"  track.  This left me with metal on metal for that interface and that is untenable.  I emailed Antal and they referred me to euromarinetrading.com  here in the USA.  


These folks were very helpful and they supplied me with two sets of Part Number  G30.40A PVC inserts 160 mm long,   for $18.25 per set  plus shipping.  These are the original OEM sliders. 


This repair will require removal of the car from the track to install them but I believe the car removal can be accomplished by removing the bolt at the end of the track and also removing the car traveler pulley mechanism at the aft end of the track.  I need to remove this to replace the Amel logo aluminum pulleys at the base of that apparatus anyway.  I think this will provide clearance without having to grind some of the "T" section but that is yet to be determined.  


Gary S. Silver

s/v Liahona

Amel SM 2000 #335

Puerto Rico

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

When I re-rigged Liahona I replaced the aluminum blind rivets that Amel had installed originally with 1/4 th inch diameter aluminum "pop" (aka blind rivets).   I had followed the discussion on the forum about having the rivets being sacrificial so that they would shear in overload rather than fracture the pulley/gear or tear out the bottom of the foil.  I still think that idea has merit even though it makes re-rigging more difficult (i.e. drilling out the blind rivets.  

The forum indicated that the rivets be 3/4 in long so I bought the minimal number of 1/4 inch diameter 3/4 inch long aluminum rivets from RivetsOnline.com  (100 for $18.00).  The rivet tool for that size rivet was $70 from the same source.  I found that the 3/4 inch (25.4mm) length rivets were too long to set properly in my foil/furling pulley/gear application so I removed the rivet from the pull-stem, trimmed them to 19.5 mm long, re-placed the rivet on the pull stem and pulled them with my new tool.  This resulted in a nicely flush head in the recess in the furling pulley/gear.   I applied Dow 737 RTV to the foil as I seated it in the pulley gear and also sealed all the rivets with the same as well as making sure I sealed the tracks within the foil where they seated in the pulley/gear.  The idea is to make this join impervious to salt water and salt accretions.  The Down 737 RTV is the best to use on aluminum as it does not have acetic acid (corrosive to aluminum) in it like most common RTVs and is approved for use on aluminum aircraft structures.  

All the best, 

Gary S. Silver  A & P (FAA certified airframe and powerplant mechanic)
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Del Rey  Puerto Rico

Anybody needs some of these rivets, I can supply some for the cost of postage. 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Exhaust water temperature sensor 7MDKAL

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Fernando & Bill:

This is a curious situation. 

As for the number of wires at each terminal ring (i.e. 2 blacks and two whites, versus 1 of each, I wouldn't be too concerned as this is usually just a wiring harness difference as manufacturers often daisy chain grounds or other wires together rather than carrying them to a terminal strip or other common point.  Probably not the best practice as a failure somewhere in the daisy chain causes a failure for any other sensors or grounds elsewhere attached upstream.)

The fact that the generator runs properly with no ground provided to the white wires, and stops when a ground is provided to the white wires,  indicates to me that this is a normally open switch that closes at the fault generating temperature (80 degrees C per Bills experience) as the switch closes and grounds thru the black wires.

I would recommend that you remove all the wires to the new sensor/switch and then measure resistance  (i.e. continuity) across the two switch studs.  It should be infinite or open when at ambient temperature.  If there is continuity across that switch in the cold state then the switch is faulty of you have the wrong part number switch/sensor, (i.e a normally closed switch). 

Good to know that you can, at least, run your genset with this switch out of circuit.  Let us know what the switch continuity is when out of circuit.  Also measure continuity from the black (ground) wire terminal to the engine ground strap (the braided cable on the ports/outboard side of the genset).  You should have zero ohms of resistance (or close to zero ohms) on that wire.  Not exactly sure what you will see measuring continuity on the white wires as they go to the AVR etc.

S5 (High Exhaust Temp) appears to be daisy chained with S2 (High Engine Coolant Temp) so I can imagine that the white wires are for those two switches/sensors and the black wires are to daisy chain the grounds for the two switches/sensors. 

I hope this turns out to be as simple as the wrong part number switch.

All the best, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000   #335
Puerto Rico
cell  801-543-5801





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Exhaust water temperature sensor 7MDKAL

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Fernando,

Your Onan is acting as though the temperature switch should normally be open.

Gary Silver looked at the schematics and said that the switch should normally be open. I am fairly sure that Gary looked at schematics for a MDKAL, which you said that you have. Remember I said that BeBe #387 is a MDKAV. Maybe there is a difference in the shutdown system between these two models, so at this point, you should disregard my experience with the MDKAV because of apples to oranges..

Assuming that the temperature switch is normally open:
With the generator cold and wires disconnected from the sensor, check continuity. If there is no continuity, the switch is open. Now, use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the sensor to around 100c. Does the switch close? If you have an IR heat thermometer, check the temperature that the switch changes from open to closed. Since the normal operating temperature under load for the elbow is about 50c, the switch is probably rated around 80-100c.

Send a check to Amel School for $0.02 because this is my 2 cents worth.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
720 Winnie Street
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970







On Mon, Jul 3, 2017 at 10:41 AM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello Bill, Gary and Craig,


The new sensor got installed.  If it remains disconnected, the generator works great.

If its terminals are connected, the engine does not start.

If the engine is started (cold) and the terminals are connected, the generator dies.

If the old sensor is re-installed, and the broken terminal is touched to its broken wing, the generator dies.

There might be something strange going on.  Bill's setup and photo shows only one white and one black wire going to the sensor's terminals.  My setup has two whites joined to one terminal and two blacks joined to the other terminal.

Thank you Bill, Gary and Craig for your comments, and perhaps you have other insights!  Otherwise I may have to call the Onan guys, who want to charge €125/hr for the privilege.  Yes, higher than Onan Fort Lauderdale.

Cheers,


SM2K N. 350 (2002)
Marmaris



---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, wrote :

Fernando,

I found the photo that I took at the time that Exhaust Elbow Switch was by-passed. I was wrong, the wires were actually wire-tied together. See the attached. Note that there are only two wires going to the switch, one black and one white. I thought you said that there were two wires joined at each connector on each side of your switch.

Either the characteristics of this switch changes with model numbers, or possibly something else is going on. 

Did your Onan shut down with one terminal broken?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
720 Winnie Street
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Sun, Jul 2, 2017 at 5:28 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hi Fernando and Ana,
Since another post established that the Exhaust Temperature Switch (it's actually not a sensor) is normally open, your 2nd question is interesting. Your old switch probably did not fail, that is, it likely would still close with high temperature, but the picture of the old switch's broken terminal does look like you'd have to replace it to get a new terminal, rather than attempting a fix (unless you can drill the old post out). 
Given that, you can simply trust the new switch will close when it gets too hot, and shut down the unit. That is a highly likely outcome that I should think you can be comfortable with. In industrial settings, where all safeties had to be tested in service conditions, we used to cut off the cooling water flow and see if the engine shut down (very exciting but not my pocketbook). If you really, really want to test it you'd have to figure ou t how to heat it past its set point and see if it closed - maybe in your oven, rather than cutting off the cooling water.
By all means, do put a jumper between the new terminals when you install the switch and it should activate the shut down relay (which won't test the switch function but will simulate it closing).
 Have fun.
Cheers,
Craig and Katherine, SN#68 Sangaris; Abacos, Bahamas 


---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com, wrote :

Hello,


Our sensor, marked F230 402-370 0013, was found failed (one of the wire terminals broken off) during an Onan inspection in Italy, and the part would have taken weeks for express delivery from Onan Netherlands.


Here in Marmaris, the part is available at the Onan shop for a "modest" $125. But I have two questions:


1.  If I install it myself, is there a need for a thermal paste or some other exotic procedure other than just screwing the new sensor where the old one was?


2.  How do you "test" such a sensor?  Obviously its absence has not been detected by the genset, which runs like a champ, so after installing the shiny new part, how do I even know if the new part is doing anything other than sitting pretty?


I think a functioning sensor is important as otherwise an overheating situation will not be detected and the motor will burn out and possibly cause a fire.


Thoughts?  Comments?  Thanks in advance!


Peregrinus

SM2K N. 350 (2002)

Marmaris, Tk




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Exhaust water temperature sensor 7MDKAL

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Hello Bill, Gary and Craig,

The new sensor got installed.  If it remains disconnected, the generator works great.

If its terminals are connected, the engine does not start.

If the engine is started (cold) and the terminals are connected, the generator dies.

If the old sensor is re-installed, and the broken terminal is touched to its broken wing, the generator dies.

There might be something strange going on.  Bill's setup and photo shows only one white and one black wire going to the sensor's terminals.  My setup has two whites joined to one terminal and two blacks joined to the other terminal.

Thank you Bill, Gary and Craig for your comments, and perhaps you have other insights!  Otherwise I may have to call the Onan guys, who want to charge €125/hr for the privilege.  Yes, higher than Onan Fort Lauderdale.

Cheers,


SM2K N. 350 (2002)
Marmaris



---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote :

Fernando,

I found the photo that I took at the time that Exhaust Elbow Switch was by-passed. I was wrong, the wires were actually wire-tied together. See the attached. Note that there are only two wires going to the switch, one black and one white. I thought you said that there were two wires joined at each connector on each side of your switch.

Either the characteristics of this switch changes with model numbers, or possibly something else is going on. 

Did your Onan shut down with one terminal broken?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
720 Winnie Street
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Sun, Jul 2, 2017 at 5:28 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Fernando and Ana,
Since another post established that the Exhaust Temperature Switch (it's actually not a sensor) is normally open, your 2nd question is interesting. Your old switch probably did not fail, that is, it likely would still close with high temperature, but the picture of the old switch's broken terminal does look like you'd have to replace it to get a new terminal, rather than attempting a fix (unless you can drill the old post out). 
Given that, you can simply trust the new switch will close when it gets too hot, and shut down the unit. That is a highly likely outcome that I should think you can be comfortable with. In industrial settings, where all safeties had to be tested in service conditions, we used to cut off the cooling water flow and see if the engine shut down (very exciting but not my pocketbook). If you really, really want to test it you'd have to figure ou t how to heat it past its set point and see if it closed - maybe in your oven, rather than cutting off the cooling water.
By all means, do put a jumper between the new terminals when you install the switch and it should activate the shut down relay (which won't test the switch function but will simulate it closing).
 Have fun.
Cheers,
Craig and Katherine, SN#68 Sangaris; Abacos, Bahamas 


---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com, <svperegrinus@...> wrote :

Hello,


Our sensor, marked F230 402-370 0013, was found failed (one of the wire terminals broken off) during an Onan inspection in Italy, and the part would have taken weeks for express delivery from Onan Netherlands.


Here in Marmaris, the part is available at the Onan shop for a "modest" $125. But I have two questions:


1.  If I install it myself, is there a need for a thermal paste or some other exotic procedure other than just screwing the new sensor where the old one was?


2.  How do you "test" such a sensor?  Obviously its absence has not been detected by the genset, which runs like a champ, so after installing the shiny new part, how do I even know if the new part is doing anything other than sitting pretty?


I think a functioning sensor is important as otherwise an overheating situation will not be detected and the motor will burn out and possibly cause a fire.


Thoughts?  Comments?  Thanks in advance!


Peregrinus

SM2K N. 350 (2002)

Marmaris, Tk



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions

John Clark
 

Hi All,
  I thought I read on the forum that Amel (in Martinique) was replacing the rivets with bolts as they serviced furlers?  

My furler assembly is an earlier version but with similar foil attachment and Amel replaced the rivets with stainless Allen head bolts.  I visited a Super Maramu last year which also had the stainless bolt modification.  There are pictures and a discussion here on the forum under the heading: 

"Jib furling Rivets - Bolts"  

              
                Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie  SM 37
Charleston, SC


Re: Exhaust Fan for Cabin - Opinions?

rossirossix4
 

Hi. Sorry about a late post on this.  In our aft cabin we have had very good performance from a Caframo Sirocco fan.  It has 3 speeds and at 24V its draw is: 0.06 amps for 90cfm, 0.11 amps for 114 cfm and  0.17 Amps for 140 cfm.  It is easy to run a wire under the wood trim from the 24V supply to the rear cabin lights. The fan is quiet and fully gimbaled so it can be flipped if you want to use it to exhaust air or angled to direct air to a specific area in the rear stateroom.  It is very quiet.  What is most unique is that if mounted correctly (see link to photos) it can be flipped up (held by sturdy detents, not friction) to operating positions or flipped down flush with the bulkhead and completely out of the way.  The fan is fairly large and can move a great deal of air but we almost always use it on the low setting.  We have never had any success with the idea of pulling air through the boat and exhausting out the rear hatch, but it works very well to pull air in.  It also has a timer so you can set it for 2,4,6 hours or continuous.  We don't know what we would do without it.  Note that one of the pictures shows a black-out curtain that we have that drops in front of the fan but does not restrict air flow.  This gives you privacy at the dock even when ventilating. It also clears security bars if you have them. We also have 2 Hella fans on the rear bulkhead but do not use them.   Fan:  http://www.caframolifestylesolutions.com/product/marine/sirocco-ii-draft/  Pictures installed  https://www.dropbox.com/sc/nb4z290lfs49h9j/AACUQn9jfeq6cl4Y9euo9Pa0a

We have awnings and not used our AC for 2 years (accept to cycle it for maintenance).
Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM 429 Venice

On an unrelated matter--if you are like us and use paper towels in the engine room for projects like oil changes, you may relate to the problem of having to grab the roll with an oily hand, struggling to tear off a sheet or having it unroll etc.  Here is a low tech solution--we don't store it there, just place it for projects when you rip off a sheet the next one is there to pull https://www.dropbox.com/sc/vu5hz58q7f1meau/AADqq0XsYJORDQzxrquUVPeAa
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Mark,
You'll have to measure the hole diameter yourself because they may have been enlarged when they were drilled out. And, since you can lift the extrusion out of the socket you can also measure the thickness (rivet length) you'll need. You may find one or more holes a bit larger than others, depending on how carefully they were drilled out.  If so enlarge all the holes so you can deal with only one diameter rivet. This it not a fabrication requiring extreme precision - witness the several versions other posters have mentioned from monel rivets, to ss allen bolts, etc.- although I'd recommend Al rivets like the original. 
Good luck with it - a fun project!
Craig, SN#68 Sangaris; Abacos, Bahamas 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <mcerdos@...> wrote :

Steve,

 

Thanks you. I suspected it there should be rivets. I have eight holes (four on each side). The holes are in the drum and the foil. They look like they align. There is nothing in these holes other than silicone. I can lift the foil up above the drum and there is no evidence of any connector ever being there. This has been the way since we purchased the boat and only now are we having issues to warrant a close inspection of the set up.

 

Does anyone know the size of the rivets I should use???? I am assuming pop rivets?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Exhaust water temperature sensor 7MDKAL [1 Attachment]

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Fernando,

BeBe #387 is a 2002 MDKAV. You have a 2001 MDKAL.

Possibly this is part of the reason for the difference.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
720 Winnie Street
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970





On Mon, Jul 3, 2017 at 7:12 AM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
[Attachment(s) from svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] included below]

Hello Bill.


Interesting.  I attach a picture of my sensor.

Notice on the terminal still attached to the sensor there are two white wires, joined together at the connector.

Note on the broken off terminal floating in space that there are two black wires, joined together at the connector.

Thanks for the follow up.


P.
SM2K N. 350 (2002) (Generator built 2001)
Marmaris (ancient Physkos)



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Mark,

I am 99% sure that they are allen-head stainless set-screws on BeBe #387. 

Maybe someone will check for you, so that you will be 100% sure.

I bet you are going to stop in Martinique. Why don't you ask:
Gaëtan Rivet 
CARAIBE MARINE
BD ALLEGRE
97290 LE MARIN
MARTINIQUE
TEL +596 ( 0 ) 696 41 56 42
caraibe-greement.fr>

His rigging shop is at the head of the marina. This is the guy Amel will refer for rigging jobs.

And/or also ask: 
Jean COLLIN – Amel Caribbean manager
amel.caraibes"at"amel.fr
Tel : +596 (0) 596 585 037
Cel : +596 (0) 696 419 045

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
720 Winnie Street
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970









On Sun, Jul 2, 2017 at 7:08 PM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill,

 

Thank you so much. I am amazed the rigger didn’t catch this. We went with a highly recommended premium priced company referred to us by an Amel Guru. They obviously had to detach the foil to replace the head stay. Either they did this or put it back the way they found it. But to fill the holes with silicone and not rivets is inexcusable.

 

I have pop rivets aboard and can make a repair here in Guadalupe that will get us to Grenada. But, I really like your idea of allen head screws and tapping the drum. Much better solution than rivets. I will make the modification this hurricane season. Now I can see why you have the Amel School.

 

Do you think stainless screws would be ok or should I try to find aluminum? I always worry about mixing metals.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Guadalupe

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2017 7:12 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions

 

 

Mark,

 

I should have also said that you should have rivets securing the foil to the drum, although I assume that you could tap that drum and install allen head set screws (bolts).

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse

Admiral, Texas Navy

Commander Emeritus

720 Winnie Street

Galveston Island, TX 77550

 

On Sun, Jul 2, 2017 at 6:08 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

[Attachment(s) from Bill & Judy Rouse included below]

Mark,

 

The first time I saw anything like that was this week on a Super Maramu with a hull number in the 50s. One of my Amel School clients was considering this SM and I was reviewing photos that he took including IMG_0589.JPG, attached. Another photo of this SM appeared that the "rigger" replaced the standing rigging with undersized wire and undersized turnbuckles. I suspect that the "rigger" popped the rivets to install new rigging wire inside that foil.

 

Your Amel originally had rivets and I bet you lost them when it was re-rigged. The later model SMs had stainless steel allen head bolts, like BeBe. See the attached BeBe #387 Furler.JPG...this was after I had it repainted in Trinidad.

 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
720 Winnie Street
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 



Re: Jib Furler problem with partly furled sail

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Duane,

bending this pin may mean that the furler has been overloaded (like trying to furl without easing enough the sheets).
You should take down the motor's cover and motor in order to check that the bronze wheel has not been damaged. Don't take down the wheel, but just inspect the grease and see if you can find small bronze chips in the grease (like golden dust).

Have a good day.

Olivier.


Re: Exhaust water temperature switch 7MDKAL

Craig Briggs
 

That's a bummer, Fernando. Obviously, you would have removed the jumper when you reset the breakers so I really don't have any suggestions. Let's see what happens with the new Exhaust water temperature switch or maybe others have ideas.
Cheers,  Craig  


---In amelyachtowners@..., <svperegrinus@...> wrote :Hello Craig,

I jumped the cables (black and white) across the sensor and the generator turned off, as predicted.

Good!

However, now the generator is dead.  Nothing.  I've tried re-setting all the breaker associated to it.  No solenoids, no cranking.  Bad!

Off to the store to buy the new sensor, anyway.

Bestest,


SM2K N. 350 (2002)


Re: Exhaust water temperature sensor 7MDKAL

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Hello Craig,

I jumped the cables (black and white) across the sensor and the generator turned off, as predicted.

Good!

However, now the generator is dead.  Nothing.  I've tried re-setting all the breaker associated to it.  No solenoids, no cranking.  Bad!

Off to the store to buy the new sensor, anyway.

Bestest,


SM2K N. 350 (2002)



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sangaris@...> wrote :

Hi Fernando and Ana,
Since another post established that the Exhaust Temperature Switch (it's actually not a sensor) is normally open, your 2nd question is interesting. Your old switch probably did not fail, that is, it likely would still close with high temperature, but the picture of the old switch's broken terminal does look like you'd have to replace it to get a new terminal, rather than attempting a fix (unless you can drill the old post out). 
Given that, you can simply trust the new switch will close when it gets too hot, and shut down the unit. That is a highly likely outcome that I should think you can be comfortable with. In industrial settings, where all safeties had to be tested in service conditions, we used to cut off the cooling water flow and see if the engine shut down (very exciting but not my pocketbook). If you really, really want to test it you'd have to figure out how to heat it past its set point and see if it closed - maybe in your oven, rather than cutting off the cooling water.
By all means, do put a jumper between the new terminals when you install the switch and it should activate the shut down relay (which won't test the switch function but will simulate it closing).
 Have fun.
Cheers,
Craig and Katherine, SN#68 Sangaris; Abacos, Bahamas 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <svperegrinus@...> wrote :

Hello,


Our sensor, marked F230 402-370 0013, was found failed (one of the wire terminals broken off) during an Onan inspection in Italy, and the part would have taken weeks for express delivery from Onan Netherlands.


Here in Marmaris, the part is available at the Onan shop for a "modest" $125. But I have two questions:


1.  If I install it myself, is there a need for a thermal paste or some other exotic procedure other than just screwing the new sensor where the old one was?


2.  How do you "test" such a sensor?  Obviously its absence has not been detected by the genset, which runs like a champ, so after installing the shiny new part, how do I even know if the new part is doing anything other than sitting pretty?


I think a functioning sensor is important as otherwise an overheating situation will not be detected and the motor will burn out and possibly cause a fire.


Thoughts?  Comments?  Thanks in advance!


Peregrinus

SM2K N. 350 (2002)

Marmaris, Tk