The breaker goes off when I try to start the washing from the cockpit. Pump is installed in engine room and breaker is near the breaker for watermaker.

So I would say that the problem is in the pump. 

Slavko

__________________________________

Ipad

On 14 Aug 2020, at 21:33, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:



<image.png>

This pump is no longer available. It normally can be rebuilt without any issues.

A common problem is that the breaker is accidentally turned OFF. The breaker is normally on a box in the engine room on later SMs where the pump is also in the engine room. Early model SMs have the pump near the bow.

Bill

	CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School +1 832-380-4970 | brouse@... Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550  Website: www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com

View My Training Calendar

On Fri, Aug 14, 2020 at 10:43 AM Slavko D. <slavko@...> wrote:

Hello,

I am getting used to my new boat. I need some help with model of the anchor washing pump that is not working at all.  I made some photos but didinot check at the time how clear the photos are. Now I am 100km away from the boat and I would appreciate help if someone recognise the model of the pump from the photo. As the old one looks, new would be a good solution.

Thank you for help.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279

--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279

I installed a new flow sensor that I had in my spares.  I also replaced the impeller.  The existing impeller did not look too bad but it appeared that one vane had adhered to the impeller hub, perhaps from overheating.  I opened the cooler and found no obstructions. I also examined the hose segments from the raw water pump to the cooler and found no obstructions.

I then ran the generator under a load of 13.5 amp.  When the engine block temperature reached 103C degrees, I shut the generator off.  The exhaust elbow never topped 52C degrees.  So this appears to be a problem on the cooling side.  The cooler itself is a less than two year old "Mr. Cool" that has been in service for at least 600 hours without problem. When I put the boat away for the winter last October, there was no hint of problem.  I fully winterized it at the time.

Suggestions?

Mark Pitt
Sabbatical III, SM #419, Rhode Island, USA

Hello,

I am getting used to my new boat. I need some help with model of the anchor washing pump that is not working at all.  I made some photos but didinot check at the time how clear the photos are. Now I am 100km away from the boat and I would appreciate help if someone recognise the model of the pump from the photo. As the old one looks, new would be a good solution.

Thank you for help.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279

A couple of weeks ago, our main furler failed, it would unfurl, but it would not roll back in, but the outhaul worked just fine. The genoa worked just fine until last week when I was preparing the boat for the hurricane, it rolled out for about 2 seconds then stopped and wouldn’t operate in either direction. I am not sure if these two issues are related or not. Our boat is SM #105 (1993) and until these to issues happened everything was working as it should be. Regarding the genoa, I had a friend stand up on the bow to listen for a solenoid click or activation and there is nothing. I had to fly back to Texas for work before being able to sort these and am about to head back up this week to resolve and was looking for any input on where to begin. Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Mark

SV It’s Good
SM #105
Gloucester, VA

i've been working on Li Batteries for a few weeks since we're going to upgrade in spring 21.
for our SM, I have a narrow selection
the batteries from
Victron ,

https://www.victronenergy.de/batteries/lithium-battery-12-8v

liontron

https://greenakku.de/batteries/lithium batteries::7_56.html? gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjf61rvaZ6wIVjqmyCh33DAtUEAAYASAEgJzovD_BwE

or from a company Ripower in Germany that can build batteries on your desired dimensions! Price not much difference from standard batteries .

https://ripower.en/

Greetings to Elja
SM Balu 222

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Over the decades with Amel, I sometimes sat in on part of the week long schooling each new Amel owner received as well as the somewhat shorter training I got on the three new ones I owned. The Amel guys always said to listen for the anti-siphon

"Clear it's throat" on start up and then 

" Mind it's manners" all the rest of the time.

A clever and catchy way to remember this important item.

JOEL F. POTTER

CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

Office 954-462-5869 

On Jan 29, 2020, at 6:45 AM, Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Very important and astute observation. We do the same. Luckily we have little ladies who get paid for a weekly clean out of the salt water system. Also, first time I started the engine with Bill Rouse on board he reflexively pointed me to that siphon to look and listen to the stream in the starboard cockpit drain. Just yet another reason I’m so thankful we did the Amel school. 

Porter

A54-152. IBIS

On Jan 28, 2020, at 8:01 PM, Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:



Hi all,

Over the few years we have owned Garulfo, we came to notice that the anti siphon vent for the engine that exits in the starboard cockpit drain hole was a good tell tale of a restriction in the raw water line: 

when everything is clear (intake thru hull, vetus strainer, transmission heat exchanger, impeller, etc), the stream of water out of the vent line into the drain is continuous and silent,

when the flow is restricted, the initial spurting of water and exhaust gaz continues to the point of becoming annoying and I know i need to go and clean something. After clearing the line, the flow is back to normal. 

Do other A54 owners share the same experience? Do my conclusions make sense, or is it some kind of coincidence?

Any feedback welcome!

Thomas

GARULFO 

A54-122

Ua Huka, Marquesas, French Polynesia 

Hi,

In the long run it is even more advisable to abandon the traditional car batterie style and take one 24 volt 400, 500 or 600Ah lithium batterie instead building it up from 12 or 24 volt sections. 

I would prefer a central based BMS controller supervising the hole batterie at once, not packages without com port where one cell does not know what the other does. 

And you should look at the guaranteed capacity. Means this battleborn has only 90% capacity, according to their discharge graph. In my eyes thats a hint for low quality? 

A good quality batterie, with good chemistry inside, will guarantee 100 to 108% capacity.

There is no "drop in batterie" that is misleading because in the end you need to setup all the electronics, chargers, BMS aso. to lithium. That is the real change. Not in what plastic case the cells are packed.

Oliver from Vela Nautica 

A54#39 

Martinique 

On Thu, Aug 13, 2020, 07:21 Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Battle  Born was not very explicit about it in the Zoom meeting last week but in the long run it is very much advisable to use the 24 volt units instead of the 12 volt units. 

Using 24 volt units makes sure you will balance cells across 24 volts instead of 2 x 12 volt leaving a potential unbalance between the two 12 volt banks.
For capacity the answer is simple, as much as you wallet can last. You will always find ways to spend the available capacity in the end, so more is better. 

For your chargers you will need to investigate if you can set them to the exact same charging parameters. That may be difficult.
Also think about your charging regime. Again Battle Born was not very explicit about this but if you boat is connected to shore power for extended periods, you should lower your float voltage to reduce the state of charge to 70-80%. This can be difficult to achieve if you have several charge sources as this means adjusting it very precisely, up to tenths of volts accurate.
I did not like the way Battle Born played down this issue but Lithium batteries do not like to be kept at 100% charge level for extended periods. Even Tesla has extended logic in their battery management to handle this issue. So when Battle Born claims it has superior cells that do not suffer from this problem, I’m skeptical.

Just my 2 cents....

Regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

Bill,

 

Is this a piece of foam – about 2-3” -  attached with a tie to the cable? It’s hard to tell.

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2020 8:35 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

 

Mark, I posted a photo (not a good one) earlier in this thread.

	CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School +1 832-380-4970 | brouse@... Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550  Website: www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 1:23 PM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

If someone could please post a picture of the foam, this would be very helpful to me.

 

I will soon be replacing the Antenna (main mast), cables and VHF. I plan to thread the new cable from the top of the mast attaching it to the old cable while it is removed. If I can, I would like to keep the foam. I think I could add this as the new cable is being inserted but it is unclear how the foam is attached.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us