Date   

Re: 175A alternator belts

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hello,

I got and tested the Optibelt pullys for 90mm discs. 
And to be tightened over their back. 

Did not change anything. Still dust and wear. 

I will switch to serpentine belts. Can' t be worse.

Oliver from Vela Nautica 
A54#39 
Martinique 

On Thu, Aug 13, 2020, 08:25 ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have adjusted the alignment and it is spot on. 
My theory is that I have been using B section belts (17mm) and the alt pulley has 84mm diameter. (This was what was on the boat when I bought her in 2017.) and  according to belt specs The minimum diameter pulley should be 112mm.
Now Optibelt do a 17mm B section belt that can cope with 90mm pulley. I have ordered a pair but that is still larger than my 83mm.
If my theory is correct then I will have to machine the pulleys to accept 13mm belts such that they do not bottom out as 13mm belts can cope with smaller pulley diameters. 
Alternatively get a 112mm pulley for the alternator but then pulley ratio will be close to 2:1 not 3:1
Or switch to a serpentine belt which involve new pulleys for both alternator and the engine.

So my first port of call is to find out what pulleys other Amel owners are using.
Nick
Amelia AML54-019
Simi Greece

On 13 Aug 2020, at 15:09, Bill Hall <billhall95688@...> wrote:


Hi Nick

Have you checked the pully alignment?  Miss alignment will cause excessive belt wear

Hope this helps

Bill Hall
Looking to own an Amel

On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 3:24 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

The saga goes on. The belts for my 24v Leece Neville 175a alternator do not last and produce dust.
So I have been scratching my head....and coming to some conclusions....

 But before I go on can someone with the 175a 24v twin belt pulley set up let me know what pulley diameters you are using and what width belt and if you use cogged belt with the idlers or not?
Nick
S/Y Amelia
Simi Greece
AML54-019




Re: 175A alternator belts

ngtnewington Newington
 

I have adjusted the alignment and it is spot on. 
My theory is that I have been using B section belts (17mm) and the alt pulley has 84mm diameter. (This was what was on the boat when I bought her in 2017.) and  according to belt specs The minimum diameter pulley should be 112mm.
Now Optibelt do a 17mm B section belt that can cope with 90mm pulley. I have ordered a pair but that is still larger than my 83mm.
If my theory is correct then I will have to machine the pulleys to accept 13mm belts such that they do not bottom out as 13mm belts can cope with smaller pulley diameters. 
Alternatively get a 112mm pulley for the alternator but then pulley ratio will be close to 2:1 not 3:1
Or switch to a serpentine belt which involve new pulleys for both alternator and the engine.

So my first port of call is to find out what pulleys other Amel owners are using.
Nick
Amelia AML54-019
Simi Greece

On 13 Aug 2020, at 15:09, Bill Hall <billhall95688@...> wrote:


Hi Nick

Have you checked the pully alignment?  Miss alignment will cause excessive belt wear

Hope this helps

Bill Hall
Looking to own an Amel

On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 3:24 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

The saga goes on. The belts for my 24v Leece Neville 175a alternator do not last and produce dust.
So I have been scratching my head....and coming to some conclusions....

 But before I go on can someone with the 175a 24v twin belt pulley set up let me know what pulley diameters you are using and what width belt and if you use cogged belt with the idlers or not?
Nick
S/Y Amelia
Simi Greece
AML54-019




Re: 175A alternator belts

Bill Hall
 

Hi Nick

Have you checked the pully alignment?  Miss alignment will cause excessive belt wear

Hope this helps

Bill Hall
Looking to own an Amel

On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 3:24 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

The saga goes on. The belts for my 24v Leece Neville 175a alternator do not last and produce dust.
So I have been scratching my head....and coming to some conclusions....

 But before I go on can someone with the 175a 24v twin belt pulley set up let me know what pulley diameters you are using and what width belt and if you use cogged belt with the idlers or not?
Nick
S/Y Amelia
Simi Greece
AML54-019




Re: Switch to LiFePO4

Arno Luijten
 

Battle  Born was not very explicit about it in the Zoom meeting last week but in the long run it is very much advisable to use the 24 volt units instead of the 12 volt units. 

Using 24 volt units makes sure you will balance cells across 24 volts instead of 2 x 12 volt leaving a potential unbalance between the two 12 volt banks.
For capacity the answer is simple, as much as you wallet can last. You will always find ways to spend the available capacity in the end, so more is better. 

For your chargers you will need to investigate if you can set them to the exact same charging parameters. That may be difficult.
Also think about your charging regime. Again Battle Born was not very explicit about this but if you boat is connected to shore power for extended periods, you should lower your float voltage to reduce the state of charge to 70-80%. This can be difficult to achieve if you have several charge sources as this means adjusting it very precisely, up to tenths of volts accurate.
I did not like the way Battle Born played down this issue but Lithium batteries do not like to be kept at 100% charge level for extended periods. Even Tesla has extended logic in their battery management to handle this issue. So when Battle Born claims it has superior cells that do not suffer from this problem, I’m skeptical.

Just my 2 cents....

Regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Run 2500w inverter always even on shore power?

Billy Newport
 

Agreed Scott,
Separate charger/inverter is the way to go with Victron and solves this problem once and for all. Just adding sensors all over my boat to measure anything I can think of at the moment. Added a shore power sensor yesterday. My Climma uses about 4kw normally but does spike to 9k briefly on startup I'm assuming. You're victron should have data on its power draw, do you have 24 hours of graphs you can post out of interest? You could get it from VRM Portal if you have a CCGX/GX pushing it up to VRM.


175A alternator belts

ngtnewington Newington
 

The saga goes on. The belts for my 24v Leece Neville 175a alternator do not last and produce dust.
So I have been scratching my head....and coming to some conclusions....

But before I go on can someone with the 175a 24v twin belt pulley set up let me know what pulley diameters you are using and what width belt and if you use cogged belt with the idlers or not?
Nick
S/Y Amelia
Simi Greece
AML54-019


Re: new Rigg on SM2000

Denis Foster
 

Thank s for this information. I will look at it.
Regards
Denis 

Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 13 août 2020 à 08:27, Eloi Bamberg <eloi.bamberg@...> a écrit :

The cables comes from www.wdi.de

Eloi


Re: new Rigg on SM2000

Eloi Bamberg
 

The cables comes from www.wdi.de

Eloi


Re: Switch to LiFePO4

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Look at the BattleBorn site; you will find an area which says ‘ask us’.  They should know the answer as they support Victron.

Good luck and keep us posted...

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM007, NZ


On 13 Aug 2020, at 12:04, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> wrote:



Hi All, especially those who have switched to Lithium
I am going to take the leap when we get back to the Chesapeake in October.
I currently have:
**105A Magnun Charger/4000W inverter with remote control  panel
**80A Victron Skylla-i Charger with remote monitor
**Balmar 75 A alternator with Balmar MaxCharge MC-624 P-type multistage external regulator
**850 Watts solar panels in three series pairs, each pair with its own Victron MPPT 75 I 15 Charge Controller with Bluetooth dongle, and Victron Bluetooth network that monitors temp and voltage and sends to the MPPTs. The Bimini solar panel pair almost always has a shadow on one of the panels and doesn't produce much at all. I'm considering putting another MPPP 75 I 15 Charge Controller on that pair so each panel will operate independently.

I won't go to electric oven or use the batteries to run the AC, at least not yet, so my inverter use is exclusively to run small appliances and microwave. And I will probably make water with my 24v Desallator with the batteries. I do understand that I have to run beefier cables if I make the next transition to running larger 220v appliances.

I think I will use the Battle Borne batteries.  With above caveats, would you recommend 300, or 400AHr? Any reason I can't add another 100AHr later?  12v series pairs or 24v batteries? If 24v, how would you start engines is start battery failed?

So, other than buying batteries and configuring my chargers and charge controllers, what else do I need to make the transition to LiFePO4?

Can the Skylla-i and Magna MS-PE chargers be configured to work together so that I can charge with 185A when running the generator? How?

I am based in St Michaels, MD, across the bay from Annapolis. Do you know of an electrician in the area who can help me with configuring the system and installation of further equipment needed?  Have you worked with Peter Kennedy in Annapolis (PKYS)?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Kent and Iris
Kristy
SN 243


_._,_.


Re: Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hello Scott,

Better feed the foam line back into the mast. Imagine 20m wire swinging in the mast, that might also ruin the wires, beside possible noise. 

To feed the foam line back is no big deal.

Oliver from Vela Nautica 
A54#39 
Martinique 

On Wed, Aug 12, 2020, 15:16 Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
After struggling with the mizzen for a while, we got it to work. On my main, we did as Oliver did and it made it super easy. To clarify further:

Inside each conduit there is a thinner line and a thicker line. The thinner line has the foam bits on it. So we tied a messenger line to the bottom of this thinner line and I pulled out the thinner line/foam bits from the top of the mast. The cable went through almost like butter after that. 

We ended up leaving just the newly fed messenger line in the main along with the original amel messenger line (without foam) as I've been told that others have done that without noise issues. If we get noise, I'll just try to feed the lines with the foam bits back down the mast later.

Hope this helps someone!


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Switch to LiFePO4

karkauai
 


Hi All, especially those who have switched to Lithium
I am going to take the leap when we get back to the Chesapeake in October.
I currently have:
**105A Magnun Charger/4000W inverter with remote control  panel
**80A Victron Skylla-i Charger with remote monitor
**Balmar 75 A alternator with Balmar MaxCharge MC-624 P-type multistage external regulator
**850 Watts solar panels in three series pairs, each pair with its own Victron MPPT 75 I 15 Charge Controller with Bluetooth dongle, and Victron Bluetooth network that monitors temp and voltage and sends to the MPPTs. The Bimini solar panel pair almost always has a shadow on one of the panels and doesn't produce much at all. I'm considering putting another MPPP 75 I 15 Charge Controller on that pair so each panel will operate independently.

I won't go to electric oven or use the batteries to run the AC, at least not yet, so my inverter use is exclusively to run small appliances and microwave. And I will probably make water with my 24v Desallator with the batteries. I do understand that I have to run beefier cables if I make the next transition to running larger 220v appliances.

I think I will use the Battle Borne batteries.  With above caveats, would you recommend 300, or 400AHr? Any reason I can't add another 100AHr later?  12v series pairs or 24v batteries? If 24v, how would you start engines is start battery failed?

So, other than buying batteries and configuring my chargers and charge controllers, what else do I need to make the transition to LiFePO4?

Can the Skylla-i and Magna MS-PE chargers be configured to work together so that I can charge with 185A when running the generator? How?

I am based in St Michaels, MD, across the bay from Annapolis. Do you know of an electrician in the area who can help me with configuring the system and installation of further equipment needed?  Have you worked with Peter Kennedy in Annapolis (PKYS)?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Kent and Iris
Kristy
SN 243


_._,_.


Re: File /disk brake A54 slipping shaky.mov uploaded

 

Ralph,

Well done. Good job.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Aug 12, 2020 at 3:12 PM Ralph Heilig <ralph.heilig@...> wrote:
I installed the new caliper and it fit's pretty well. Thanks to SAV AMEL.

I have written a short replacement procedure instruction. I attach it as PDF. I'm sure some more will need to replace the old Twiflex caliper by a Coremo caliper over the years....


Re: A54 holding tank drain seasock

Sv Garulfo
 

Thanks all for your recommendations.
Yes the 54 has the same on the caps on the deck which we used after closing the valve.

A bit of vinaigrette did the trick:
- first white vinegar to dissolve the limescale then remove the debris
-followed by vegetable oil to lubricate the valve.

Thanks all
Soraya

GARULFO A54-122
Moorea, French Polynesia 


On 31 Jul 2020, at 08:31, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Soraya,

At the first sign the valve becomes sticky, we use vegetable oil to lube the
valve.

With the holding tank empty and the valve closed, remove the deck cap and
pour about a 100ml of vegetable oil into the tank. Let it sit for a little
while. Then, work the valve back and forth. This will last for a few months
before it needs to be done again.

(I am assuming the 54 has caps on the deck for pump-out like the 53)


With best regards,

Mark

Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io]
On Behalf Of Sv Garulfo
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 6:51 PM
To: Amel Yacht owners Group
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 holding tank drain seasock

Hello,

Any routine maintenance tips for the holding tanks drain seacocks?
Ours are starting to grip.

Thanks

Soraya
Garulfo
A54-122
Tahiti







Re: File /disk brake A54 slipping shaky.mov uploaded

Ralph Heilig
 

I installed the new caliper and it fit's pretty well. Thanks to SAV AMEL.

I have written a short replacement procedure instruction. I attach it as PDF. I'm sure some more will need to replace the old Twiflex caliper by a Coremo caliper over the years....


Re: Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

Scott SV Tengah
 

After struggling with the mizzen for a while, we got it to work. On my main, we did as Oliver did and it made it super easy. To clarify further:

Inside each conduit there is a thinner line and a thicker line. The thinner line has the foam bits on it. So we tied a messenger line to the bottom of this thinner line and I pulled out the thinner line/foam bits from the top of the mast. The cable went through almost like butter after that. 

We ended up leaving just the newly fed messenger line in the main along with the original amel messenger line (without foam) as I've been told that others have done that without noise issues. If we get noise, I'll just try to feed the lines with the foam bits back down the mast later.

Hope this helps someone!


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Run 2500w inverter always even on shore power?

Scott SV Tengah
 

My boat is pure 220/50hz also and I didn't want to go through the trouble of retrofitting it to work for the short periods where I am in 60hz land. I have the Victron Quattro 5kw/120a charger/inverter and it does, in fact, run everything (scuba compressor/aircon/etc) in the boat but there is a big caveat.

On my boat, it replaces the Amel transfer switch. If the Quattro detects external power into either of its AC inputs, it will pass the external power through and turn off the inverter. I asked Victron and there is no way to disable this functionality.

The way I do it when in 60hz countries that feed 220v/60hz is that I plug in briefly to fill up my lipo batteries and then run everything off battery/inverter, which I set to supply 220v/50hz. There is very little voltage drop on lipo even with heavy draws.  I have a second 220v charger, so I'm feeding about 180-200amps DC in to the batteries, so I rarely plug in for more than an hour.  If I'm running aircon, I'll have to plug in for a bit daily. If I'm not running AC, 960w solar has been enough such that we haven't plugged in at all at this marina.

If you're contemplating spending a lot of money going dual voltage, you might want to consider putting that money towards batteries/solar/inverter because those items will benefit you at all times, not just in a 60hz marina.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Onan shuts down under load without shutdown codes

 

And, I should have said, once you eliminate the cooling system, the fuel system, and each of the sensors, I suggest that it's time to get an Onan tech.

Good luck!

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   


On Wed, Aug 12, 2020, 9:28 AM CW Bill Rouse via groups.io <brouse=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Mark,

I know that you probably know this, but "plenty of water coming out the exhaust" is not a measure of sufficient water, or of the colling system. The only measure of the cooling system is the temperature difference between the exhaust elbow and the engine block or oil temperature. The normal operating temperature of the block is around 80C and if the cooling system is working the exhaust elbow should be around 50C. To eliminate the cooling system as a problem, measure these temps. BTW, I cannot count how many times I have been told "plenty of water" when it was not enough water coming out.

Once the above is eliminated and the fuel system is eliminated (is the fuel pump within 8 years of age and the filters new), it is likely a sensor issue. Some model Onans have Normally Open (NO) sensors and some Onans have Normally Closed (NC) sensors. Once you determine (see below) which you have it is simple to bypass one sensor at a time by either disconnection one wire from the sensor for NO sensors, or jumping or connecting the two wires for NC sensors. Don't do this without monitoring the exhaust temperature and ensuring it does not rise above 60C.
image.png

Here is a common sensor issue (if you have the flow sensor installed). This sensor was partially clogged. Sometimes it worked and other times it shutdown the Onan. Also this sensor was found to be oriented where the debris would fall into the sensor. When it was reinstalled, it was oriented correctly (last photo):
image.png

Sensor oriented incorrectly. Sensor pipe should be turned 180 degrees:
image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Aug 12, 2020 at 8:22 AM Mark Pitt <mark_pitt@...> wrote:

On my first sail trip of the season, my Onan MDKAV shuts down under load after 15 to 20 minutes.  No blinking codes.  Does not matter is the load is from the watermaker or AC.  It does not shut down from a charger load, or any load under about 15 amps.  I changed all the fuel filters but that did not help. Plenty of water coming out the exhaust.  Overheating should generate a shutdown code in any case.

Any ideas?


Mark Pitt
Sabbatical III, SM419, Rhode Island, USA


Re: Onan shuts down under load without shutdown codes

 

Mark,

I know that you probably know this, but "plenty of water coming out the exhaust" is not a measure of sufficient water, or of the colling system. The only measure of the cooling system is the temperature difference between the exhaust elbow and the engine block or oil temperature. The normal operating temperature of the block is around 80C and if the cooling system is working the exhaust elbow should be around 50C. To eliminate the cooling system as a problem, measure these temps. BTW, I cannot count how many times I have been told "plenty of water" when it was not enough water coming out.

Once the above is eliminated and the fuel system is eliminated (is the fuel pump within 8 years of age and the filters new), it is likely a sensor issue. Some model Onans have Normally Open (NO) sensors and some Onans have Normally Closed (NC) sensors. Once you determine (see below) which you have it is simple to bypass one sensor at a time by either disconnection one wire from the sensor for NO sensors, or jumping or connecting the two wires for NC sensors. Don't do this without monitoring the exhaust temperature and ensuring it does not rise above 60C.
image.png

Here is a common sensor issue (if you have the flow sensor installed). This sensor was partially clogged. Sometimes it worked and other times it shutdown the Onan. Also this sensor was found to be oriented where the debris would fall into the sensor. When it was reinstalled, it was oriented correctly (last photo):
image.png

Sensor oriented incorrectly. Sensor pipe should be turned 180 degrees:
image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Aug 12, 2020 at 8:22 AM Mark Pitt <mark_pitt@...> wrote:

On my first sail trip of the season, my Onan MDKAV shuts down under load after 15 to 20 minutes.  No blinking codes.  Does not matter is the load is from the watermaker or AC.  It does not shut down from a charger load, or any load under about 15 amps.  I changed all the fuel filters but that did not help. Plenty of water coming out the exhaust.  Overheating should generate a shutdown code in any case.

Any ideas?


Mark Pitt
Sabbatical III, SM419, Rhode Island, USA


Onan shuts down under load without shutdown codes

Mark Pitt
 

On my first sail trip of the season, my Onan MDKAV shuts down under load after 15 to 20 minutes.  No blinking codes.  Does not matter is the load is from the watermaker or AC.  It does not shut down from a charger load, or any load under about 15 amps.  I changed all the fuel filters but that did not help. Plenty of water coming out the exhaust.  Overheating should generate a shutdown code in any case.

Any ideas?


Mark Pitt
Sabbatical III, SM419, Rhode Island, USA


Re: Run 2500w inverter always even on shore power?

Arno Luijten
 

Except of leaving another hole of $2000+ in your wallet :-)


Arno

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