Date   

Re: Dive Compressor on a SM

hanspeter baettig
 

Hello Paul
Can you please send me your contact infos for the Coltri dive compressor. I'm hesitating between the Bauer Junior and Coltri. I know the Coltri Company in Italy.
You can email me direct; hanspeter dot baettig at bluemail dot ch
Thanks 
Hanspeter
SM 16, Tamango 2

----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----
Von : paulguenette@...
Datum : 10/07/2020 - 14:42 (BZ)
An : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Betreff : Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dive Compressor on a SM

Hi Thomas,

I recently purchased a Coltri MCH 6 single phase 220 volt 50 hz with a inox stainless steel frame for $3,500.00 that fits nicely into the space. I am happy with it. I can send you the contact information for the company and person purchased it from if you wish,  (they gave me a good price on some Mares diving gear too).  If you do not have scuba tanks yet, let me know, I have a good contact for those too.

(I met you and Kirstin briefly on the docks at Shelter Island marina in Panama, April 2019)

Cheers, Paul

Aramis, SM 2000 - 444,  San Francisco Bay, California 


Re: Dive Compressor on a SM

Paul Guenette
 

Hi Thomas,

I recently purchased a Coltri MCH 6 single phase 220 volt 50 hz with a inox stainless steel frame for $3,500.00 that fits nicely into the space. I am happy with it. I can send you the contact information for the company and person purchased it from if you wish,  (they gave me a good price on some Mares diving gear too).  If you do not have scuba tanks yet, let me know, I have a good contact for those too.

(I met you and Kirstin briefly on the docks at Shelter Island marina in Panama, April 2019)

Cheers, Paul

Aramis, SM 2000 - 444,  San Francisco Bay, California 


Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Dean, 

You’re absolutely correct with the E51385 Interface. 

 

Yes, all ok on WASABI and hope you both are well doing too. BTW: we will winterize in Spain this year and postponed the Atlantic crossing to next season.

Cheers 

Ruedi


Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Dean Gillies <stella@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Freitag, 10. Juli 2020 um 15:09
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)

Hi Ruedi,
Hope you and Sabine are well, and enjoying sailing once more.

I agree entirely with your description of the Danfoss-E51385 interface.

To make it maybe a little clearer, in our 24V boat the F pin is driven to +12V to enable the pump. Otherwise it floats (is disconnected) electrically. When it is driven to 12V, then the voltage between the + pin and the F pin is 24-12 = 12V. This is what triggers either the 51385 box or Bill's 12V relay. 

As you say, all of this is unrelated to the pump longevity problem. 

Best regards
Dean


Re: Santorin Bow Thruster/genoa furler breaker.

 

Ian, your model and hull number...it makes a big difference.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 10:58 AM Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:
I can’t find any breaker for the bow thruster and genoa furler motor. There is a 100amp fuse located in the bow thruster recess near the solenoids.
also when I turned off the main 12v power for the boat the furler and bow thruster were still live! I think an extra live main bus stud was added as so many wires were on the original. I need to investigate this pdq! But in the interim can any one tell be if and where the ‘disrupteur’ might be located on a Santorin. It is not in the bow thruster locker of either of the forward lockers in the fore cabin.

thanks.


Santorin Bow Thruster/genoa furler breaker.

Ian Park
 

I can’t find any breaker for the bow thruster and genoa furler motor. There is a 100amp fuse located in the bow thruster recess near the solenoids.
also when I turned off the main 12v power for the boat the furler and bow thruster were still live! I think an extra live main bus stud was added as so many wires were on the original. I need to investigate this pdq! But in the interim can any one tell be if and where the ‘disrupteur’ might be located on a Santorin. It is not in the bow thruster locker of either of the forward lockers in the fore cabin.

thanks.


Re: Cutting the main instrument display acrylic panel

Craig Briggs
 

Billy,
What's your boat name, model, hull # and location?
I've not seen acrylic instrument mounting panels on Amels (just acrylic switch panels), but maybe newer models have that. On my SN I had to enlarge the openings for my new B&G MFD's but that's in fiberglass and, yes, the oscillating saw is the right tool. On acrylic there's a risk of melting the material and getting a nasty ragged edge but you can do it by going slowly and rotating the blade continuously to avoid overheating it.
I see they want a 15mm / 19/32" radius on the corners so you'll want to do those first with a drill bit or hole saw, then cut the straight sections with the saw. 
Craig


Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)

Porter McRoberts
 

As with the heart, the condition of the arteries predicts the condition of the pump?
I'm sure we've all changed many an old seawater line. Lime and scale.  Marine atherosclerosis. 
I’m no cardiologist, but surely the resistance in the system would influence pump failure as well.
How might we measure this without a bloodpressure cuff?

I bet we're not 120/80.

Porter McRoberts
A54-152
 

On Jul 10, 2020, at 9:09 AM, Dean Gillies <stella@...> wrote:

Hi Ruedi,
Hope you and Sabine are well, and enjoying sailing once more.

I agree entirely with your description of the Danfoss-E51385 interface.

To make it maybe a little clearer, in our 24V boat the F pin is driven to +12V to enable the pump. Otherwise it floats (is disconnected) electrically. When it is driven to 12V, then the voltage between the + pin and the F pin is 24-12 = 12V. This is what triggers either the 51385 box or Bill's 12V relay. 

As you say, all of this is unrelated to the pump longevity problem. 

Best regards
Dean



Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Ruedi,
Hope you and Sabine are well, and enjoying sailing once more.

I agree entirely with your description of the Danfoss-E51385 interface.

To make it maybe a little clearer, in our 24V boat the F pin is driven to +12V to enable the pump. Otherwise it floats (is disconnected) electrically. When it is driven to 12V, then the voltage between the + pin and the F pin is 24-12 = 12V. This is what triggers either the 51385 box or Bill's 12V relay. 

As you say, all of this is unrelated to the pump longevity problem. 

Best regards
Dean


Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi all  

First I have to say the Fridge-cooling on WASABI is running fine and constantly since 3 years without any issue (living 8-10 Month per year on WASABI). I never replaced the pump and it’s running many hours a day. Nevertheless I bought a spare Frigoboat Pump and a spare controller just in case (see pics).

I have no idea why these pump is always breaking @ other A54. Maybe not using the original pumps? So I hear Bill Rouse saying: “Always use original parts as designed for the boat” ;-)

 

I try to explain what the E51385 is doing in my opinion and excuse me if I bother you with broadly known information. 

-       The Frigoboat E51385 is a DC24-12V converter and power driver to source the needed AMP’s to the pump, because the Fan output F port (which is minus) is not designed to deliver enough Amp’s for the pump on 12V. The E51385 is a Voltage driver (converter) as noted on the schema, which was in my Pump-Box (see Pictures attached).

-       The mentioned schema also shows that if I run a 12V boat Voltage, I can connect the pump with an extra relay controlled by the Fan output, but power-sourced for the pump is the house-battery. Electrically the same as Bill’s proposal. 

-       I opened my spare box and you can see in the middle of the board the blue 12V potentio-meter (or trimmer, - sorry my English is not perfect). It’s the converter regulator to bring any 24V down to 12V. Therefore the Frigoboat controller should never deliver 24V to the pump.

 

I know it’s very confusing that the controller shows the 24V LED on. The LED just indicates; “these is a 24V driven boat”. The LED shows 24V because the Battery Minus goes directly to the E51385. So it shows the 24V between the minus and the plus coming from the FAN-Output (+).  The plus from the Danfos controller is the same plus as the input source and gives 24V against the minus at the E51385. The F wire (-) is only the trigger wire. All together it sounds strange but these 24V is converting to 12V at the E51385 for the pump. Don't be confused with the 24V LED.

Bill’s proposed project is more clear and will certainly run as well. But it’s more or less the same with electrical (discrete components) as the E51385 which is build with transistor components electronically.  In conclusion: 

I don’t think Bill's solution will change the wear of a pump and the problem will stay unless these Frigoboat converters are doing something strange which harms the pumps (but I don’t think so).

Hope this helps a bit to get light into the blue Frigoboard “magic box”, and excuse my limited English.

 

Best regards

Ruedi and Sabina Waldispuehl

AMEL-54 Nbr. 55

Currently in Santa Maria di Leuca 


Cutting the main instrument display acrylic panel

Billy Newport
 

My B&G Vulcan 7FS failed at the helm and i purchased a new Vulcan 7R. Because its a boat, its mounting system is slightly different so I need to enlarge the hole and drill new holes. I'm thinking of using an oscillating saw to do this work and I'm wondering if anyone else has installed new instruments on those panels and how they did it?


Re: Bottom paint removal

James Alton
 

Jarek,

First that I have heard of ice blasting but sounds like a good idea.  I would certainly stick to a mechanical removal method to avoid possible damage to the gel coat from harsh chemicals.  In 2017 we were given the job to complete the stripping the bottom, barrier coating and Copper Coating a 45’ Ketch (non Amel).  The owner had been using a water based stripper from West Marine which said right on the package that the product was safe on gel coat and had thrown in the towel when he realized what a big job it was.  We began dry scrapping  (using carbide bladed scrappers)  the hull bare and began finding numerous areas where the gel coat had softened significantly, right down to the glass.  We tried washing the hull with soap and water numerous times and allowing the bottom to dry but the gel coat remained soft in areas.  In the affected areas, the gel coat acted like hard chalk that would turn to powder under the scrapper.  The gel coat on the parts of the boat that were not being stripped was hard as glass.  In fact the hull topsides are of the original gel coat finish, not painted so this softening on the bottom was definitely due to the stripper.   We ended up dry scrapping the paint off and then machine/vacuum sanding off all of the gel coat right down to the glass.   We even found some minor softening in the outer glass layers.  Keep in mind that the polyester resin in the hull is very similar chemically to the gel coat.    Now it is true that the owner of this boat was not following the instructions for the stripper in that he left the material on the hull for an extended period (months) so certainly this was a factor.  But the fact of the matter is that there are strippers that can do permanent damage to gel coat and I personally would not take the chance of damaging such a large part of the hull to save a little time stripping a bottom.  

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jul 9, 2020, at 5:32 PM, Jarek Zemlo via groups.io <noa_blue@...> wrote:

Just did the ice blasting to the gel-coat of my AMEL SM in Belgium and put 3 layers of epoxy + 2 layers of antifouling. Ice blasting was very nice and gentle to the gel-coat. Paid EUR 3.000 gross for the ice-blasting including disposal and cleaning.
--
Jarek Zemlo
NOA BLUE


Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Porter,
A suitable relay would be something similar to OMRON G2RL1. 

You are correct that a 24V pump operated at12V would deliver about half the volume, and yes the volume is certainly important for the cooling performance.  However, as with medication, the correct amount is best, more than enough is not necessarily better due to side effects (pump wear).

best regards
Dean

SY Stella
A54-154




 

 

 


Re: Bottom paint removal

Mark McGovern
 

Paul,

The keel did not yet have the bottom paint applied to it in the picture I posted.  The gray color is the epoxy coating.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Dive Compressor on a SM

Alan Leslie
 

Sorry, no reason to stop you.
We have one..it's brilliant, not just for us, but helping others to fill their bottles when 000's of miles from civilisation.
We were in Suwarrow in 2014 and one boat had wrapped their chain around a bommie. He soon ran out of air and asked me "you don't have a compressor on board do you?", YUP we do, and two full bottles...so bring your bottle and take one of ours while I fill yours ! ... got him out of trouble!
Only down side is it is VERY NOISY !!
Overall you won't regret it.
It's only money after all. What else are you going to do with it ?

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Bottom paint removal

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Mark,

 

I may have missed something in this thread, but why is the keel a different colour?

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mark McGovern
Sent: 09 July 2020 17:00
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bottom paint removal

 

Pat,

 

HHN uses fairly large timbers for a boat our size - roughly 8"x8".  It gave me just enough room to lay on my side, and use and grind the old epoxy back.  It was gruelling work and OSHA would definitely not approve as I had to remove the safety guard off the angle grinder, as well the handle, and use it one-handed - pretty much by "feel" since I couldn't see the surface I was grinding while grinding.  It came out OK, but as I said above, in hindsight, I should have just let Osprey do the whole thing.  Here is a pic of the finished keel:

 

 

On Wed, Jul 8, 2020 at 9:11 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Mark, So it sounds as though they were able to do most of the bottom of the keel,correct ? That surprises me ,I would have thought the keel would be too close to the ground to work on,unless it is on tall blocks. Normally I am less than 6 inches off the ground. Sandblasting is hard work ,but it is amazing that a marina will ask you to pay $7,000. for one man/day of work . I did not accept their offer ,but $3000 .,while still a lot like you said ,does save you a lot of work ,not many options ,can't do it yourself,so they can charge what they want,little competition . I will try the paste removal stuff and if it does not work out ,I will give J.J. a call.

Thanks Again,

Pat

SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Wed, Jul 8, 2020 6:06 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bottom paint removal

Pat,

They are making a killing even at that price as it takes them only one day and it is pretty much just one guy doing the work.  However, it was still worth the cost when you compare it to the time and materials that it will cost you to do it yourself, nevermind the wear and tear on your body! 

Discuss the bottom of the keel with JJ.  If I remember correctly, for them to do the whole bottom it would have required a re-block of the boat by the yard (~$300ish) while they have the boat in their section of the yard.  And then because I was doing more work on the hard, I was going to need yet another re-block to move me out of Ospreys section of the yard to my spot on the hard.  So I just had Osprey do the bottom of the keel that was exposed and then when the marina moved the boat out of Ospreys area to my spot on the hard I asked them to make sure the timbers under the keel were in different spots.  I then ground back and epoxy coated the two "stripes" under the keel myself.  In hindsight, I should have just paid Osprey to do the whole bottom of the keel.  Grinding the old epoxy off the bottom of that keel while laying down on gravel is NOT fun!


--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: Hardtop for Amel 54

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Barry,

 

This is something I’ve been interested in too. What changes did you make to the boom line? Would you have a photo?

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Barry Connor via groups.io
Sent: 10 July 2020 00:42
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Hardtop for Amel 54

 

Hello Amel 54 owners,

I have seen and been onboard some Amel 54's with custom Hardtops. Most are a little low in height.
We are in Martinique since March and will probably be here for some time as the Caribbean is not looking to be opening up for sailing soon.
A good time to undertake some projects. 
Do any Amel 54 owners have any recommendations for getting a custom made hardtop manufactured in the Caribbean? I would like to explore this possibility, I currently have had made a 5 bow Bimini with 6ft clearance under. I am looking for someone in the Caribbean who has made a Hardtop for a 54 or If I could find someone who does good fibre glass. I think I might be able to get a hardtop with 6ft clearance under as I have already made the changes to the boom line which had previously limited the height of hardtops and a bimini.
Would appreciate any advise from members who have any info for this project.

Best Regards

Barry and Penny
"SV Lady Penelope II"
Amel 54.  #17
Sante Anne anchorage Martinique 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: Dive Compressor on a SM

Porter McRoberts
 

I’m with Mark. 
Super easy to maintain. Such a pleasure. 
Opens a whole new world. 
Do it!

Porter 
A54-152

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 
Www.fouribis.net

On Jul 10, 2020, at 12:09 AM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:



Do it – it’s only money.

 

We have one. It’s not hard to maintain and I can fill a tank to 3200psi in about 20 mins.

 

Think about all the many locations in French Polynesia where you can’t get tanks filled. Having the compressor opens up a whole new world for sailors who dive.

 

Opps! Sorry. You wanted reasons not to do it. Can’t think of any other than you might miss the storage space and your boat will list more to port than it does now.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Sent: Thursday, July 9, 2020 5:07 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dive Compressor on a SM

 

OK- I have hull #422 (a red line) and each day I wistfully look at that un-used dive compressor breaker on the 220 volt panel and feel like it's talking to me. My wife and I are enthusiastic divers heading (hopefully) back to Polynesia where diving would be fun and not always close to a dive shop.
There is even a comprehensive design for a sliding drawer mounting in the aft  port cockpit lazarette I like on this very site. I am in Hawaii, have access to Home Depot and shipping (the Bauer Jr II) comes from Seattle ...it's all so tempting.

The logical part of my brain, however reminds me that it's noisy, represents another system to maintain, $5000 to buy and install myself, and would doubtless raise the cost of diving based on my accounting driven cost per tank assumptions and those I've read done by others.

But I kind of want it. Anyone out there with some bit of pessimism or wisdom to stop me ?

Tom and Kirstin
SV L'ORIENT
Honelei Bay, Kauai


Re: Dive Compressor on a SM

Bryce Procter
 

Hi,

I just picked up mine yesterday, didn't even look for a reason not too. Fun will be had long after the cost is forgotten.
Can you point me to the drawings you mentioned?

Cheers

Bryce
SV Seamaster II
SM 467




On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 11:06 AM +0800, "Thomas Kleman" <lorient422@...> wrote:

OK- I have hull #422 (a red line) and each day I wistfully look at that un-used dive compressor breaker on the 220 volt panel and feel like it's talking to me. My wife and I are enthusiastic divers heading (hopefully) back to Polynesia where diving would be fun and not always close to a dive shop.
There is even a comprehensive design for a sliding drawer mounting in the aft  port cockpit lazarette I like on this very site. I am in Hawaii, have access to Home Depot and shipping (the Bauer Jr II) comes from Seattle ...it's all so tempting.

The logical part of my brain, however reminds me that it's noisy, represents another system to maintain, $5000 to buy and install myself, and would doubtless raise the cost of diving based on my accounting driven cost per tank assumptions and those I've read done by others.

But I kind of want it. Anyone out there with some bit of pessimism or wisdom to stop me ?

Tom and Kirstin
SV L'ORIENT
Honelei Bay, Kauai


Re: Dive Compressor on a SM

Mark Erdos
 

Do it – it’s only money.

 

We have one. It’s not hard to maintain and I can fill a tank to 3200psi in about 20 mins.

 

Think about all the many locations in French Polynesia where you can’t get tanks filled. Having the compressor opens up a whole new world for sailors who dive.

 

Opps! Sorry. You wanted reasons not to do it. Can’t think of any other than you might miss the storage space and your boat will list more to port than it does now.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Sent: Thursday, July 9, 2020 5:07 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dive Compressor on a SM

 

OK- I have hull #422 (a red line) and each day I wistfully look at that un-used dive compressor breaker on the 220 volt panel and feel like it's talking to me. My wife and I are enthusiastic divers heading (hopefully) back to Polynesia where diving would be fun and not always close to a dive shop.
There is even a comprehensive design for a sliding drawer mounting in the aft  port cockpit lazarette I like on this very site. I am in Hawaii, have access to Home Depot and shipping (the Bauer Jr II) comes from Seattle ...it's all so tempting.

The logical part of my brain, however reminds me that it's noisy, represents another system to maintain, $5000 to buy and install myself, and would doubtless raise the cost of diving based on my accounting driven cost per tank assumptions and those I've read done by others.

But I kind of want it. Anyone out there with some bit of pessimism or wisdom to stop me ?

Tom and Kirstin
SV L'ORIENT
Honelei Bay, Kauai


Dive Compressor on a SM

Thomas Kleman
 

OK- I have hull #422 (a red line) and each day I wistfully look at that un-used dive compressor breaker on the 220 volt panel and feel like it's talking to me. My wife and I are enthusiastic divers heading (hopefully) back to Polynesia where diving would be fun and not always close to a dive shop.
There is even a comprehensive design for a sliding drawer mounting in the aft  port cockpit lazarette I like on this very site. I am in Hawaii, have access to Home Depot and shipping (the Bauer Jr II) comes from Seattle ...it's all so tempting.

The logical part of my brain, however reminds me that it's noisy, represents another system to maintain, $5000 to buy and install myself, and would doubtless raise the cost of diving based on my accounting driven cost per tank assumptions and those I've read done by others.

But I kind of want it. Anyone out there with some bit of pessimism or wisdom to stop me ?

Tom and Kirstin
SV L'ORIENT
Honelei Bay, Kauai