Date   

Re: Boar speed om Amel SM200

Bill Shaproski
 

I have a 1995 SM and changed out the B&G instruments for Raymarine instruments.  Relatively straightforward replacement except for running the wiring to the mast head for the wind instrument.  The wires for all instruments, run in a completely accessible channel on the starboard side at the ceiling intersection.   

Regards
Bill Shaproski
S/V Pacific Cool
206-375-2787

On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 1:33 PM Slavko Despotovi <slavko@...> wrote:

Hello,

I just become the owner of SM 2000 hull nr. 279. Name Bonne Anse. Boat speed is not working. Surveyer Oliver said that problem is in sensor. Any experince if I would change with sensor for depth, temperature and speed sensor?

Thank you,

Slavko
SM 2000 279



--
Bill Shaproski
Cell:  +1-206-375-2787


Re: Cruise and Max RPM #solution

Bill Shaproski
 

I have a 1995 Amel SM with a TMD22A and a MaxProp.  I used a max cruising speed of 2,000 RPM when doing my circumnavigation, but usually tried to keep it at 1800RPM.  I have cruised at 2600 RPM plus in an emergency for about 30 minutes, but the engine did get very hot.  Hope this helps.  I arrived at the 2,000RPM number by listening to the prior owner's advice.  

Regards,
Bill Shaproski
S/v Pacific Cool
206-375-2787

On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 8:10 AM JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:
Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain



--
Bill Shaproski
Cell:  +1-206-375-2787


Re: Cruise and Max RPM #solution

Marco Mancini
 

Bill it is nice to have your comment . 
I have to check for this .
What do you mean ? I think I don’t have sufficient knoweldge about your question.  May please provide me additiional info ? 
as you may image we carry 2 alternators one for the 12 volt engine / onan battery charger ant another one at 24 volt for the other batteries. 
cheers 


Il giorno 05 lug 2020, alle ore 21:30, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> ha scritto:

Did your mechanic Isolate the 12-volt negative? 
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 1:10 PM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Marco,
Are you still using the AutoProp H6 with the new engine?  If yes, did you have it modified in any way?

Thanks,
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Jul 5, 2020 1:18 PM, Marco Mancini <marcomancini61@...> wrote:
dears,

the TMD22 with the mechanical gearbox (2,8 reduction factor) and the autoprop h6 was probably  never reached in our 20 years of SM  more than 2500 2600 rpm ,
The TMD22 engine characteristic curve show that the 78 hp ( the max power) is obtained at 3500 - 4200 rpm  but at 2500 the curve show 40 hp and the boat has never reached more than 7.5 knots 
Now we have moved to the yanmar 110 cv,  the new version of the yanmar 100) with gearbox with 2.3 rduction factor   (midway betwenn the 1.97 of amel 54 with 110 volvo and  2.8 of the yanmar 100 )  that is  the new version  of the well known  Yanmar 100 cv  installed by Amel  after the TMD22. In Italy due to a severe restrictions of  omologation certificate we had also to afford the cost of new homologation certificate but we hare happy with this change . indeed the boat seems to go much better, it has a cruise speed of 8,5  at 2300 rpm over 3200rpm ( max engine regime)  and also in the manoeuvres she is more prompt than before . 
cheers and good wind . 
marco mancini 
SM 304 




Il giorno 25 giu 2020, alle ore 16:55, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> ha scritto:

This is question without a definitive answer. 
We also have the TMD22. When we bought our boat (about 4 years used), we could get almost 3,000 rpm at max throttle. Our local diesel guy suggested cruising at 80% of max, or 2,400. Our max started to lessen within about a year. 
Ever since then, we have usually not been able to max out at 3,000. Usually max is 2,400 to 2,600, so we cruise at 80% of that.
Issues affecting max cruise rpm include bottom, prop (even one barnacle can make a difference), turbo condition, and countless others. 
I suppose that, just like me, the Volvo has also lost a little mojo as it has aged. 

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay

with its tiny keyboard

On Jun 25, 2020, at 10:10 AM, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:

Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain






Re: Cruise and Max RPM #solution

Marco Mancini
 

Kent, we are using the same h6 was setted up by amel for the previuos TMD22 without modification. I discussed for a while with the Autoprop dealer for the defintion of the 2,3 gearbox ratio  becouse I thought in the beginning to use the same gearbox ratio of the other yanmar 100 cv installed on the SM . But this new version ( 110cv) run at maximum only at 3200 rpm instead of the 3800 rpm so we needed a smaller ratio.  The engine at its maxum reach all the 3200 rpm . Indeed the boat runs to above 9,2 Knots but she goes above her  critical velocity that with the usual formula is  8,7  knots . From what my brother is describing to me  ( I leave in Milan ) there are not vibration and the engine is very silent . 
cheers 
marco 



Il giorno 05 lug 2020, alle ore 20:09, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> ha scritto:

Hi Marco,
Are you still using the AutoProp H6 with the new engine?  If yes, did you have it modified in any way?

Thanks,
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Jul 5, 2020 1:18 PM, Marco Mancini <marcomancini61@...> wrote:
dears,

the TMD22 with the mechanical gearbox (2,8 reduction factor) and the autoprop h6 was probably  never reached in our 20 years of SM  more than 2500 2600 rpm ,
The TMD22 engine characteristic curve show that the 78 hp ( the max power) is obtained at 3500 - 4200 rpm  but at 2500 the curve show 40 hp and the boat has never reached more than 7.5 knots 
Now we have moved to the yanmar 110 cv,  the new version of the yanmar 100) with gearbox with 2.3 rduction factor   (midway betwenn the 1.97 of amel 54 with 110 volvo and  2.8 of the yanmar 100 )  that is  the new version  of the well known  Yanmar 100 cv  installed by Amel  after the TMD22. In Italy due to a severe restrictions of  omologation certificate we had also to afford the cost of new homologation certificate but we hare happy with this change . indeed the boat seems to go much better, it has a cruise speed of 8,5  at 2300 rpm over 3200rpm ( max engine regime)  and also in the manoeuvres she is more prompt than before . 
cheers and good wind . 
marco mancini 
SM 304 




Il giorno 25 giu 2020, alle ore 16:55, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> ha scritto:

This is question without a definitive answer. 
We also have the TMD22. When we bought our boat (about 4 years used), we could get almost 3,000 rpm at max throttle. Our local diesel guy suggested cruising at 80% of max, or 2,400. Our max started to lessen within about a year. 
Ever since then, we have usually not been able to max out at 3,000. Usually max is 2,400 to 2,600, so we cruise at 80% of that.
Issues affecting max cruise rpm include bottom, prop (even one barnacle can make a difference), turbo condition, and countless others. 
I suppose that, just like me, the Volvo has also lost a little mojo as it has aged. 

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay

with its tiny keyboard

On Jun 25, 2020, at 10:10 AM, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:

Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain




Re: Slap Silencer

Brent Cameron
 

I use a small knot in the end of a rope that will go through the hole in the centre fairly easily and then I put a hosek on it and it blows the knot through in about 2 seconds flat.  (Assumes the noodles have a hole up the centre, all the ones I’ve seen do.  

Brent

On Jul 5, 2020, 4:41 PM -0400, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...>, wrote:
Hi Marc
I like the idea with the swimming noodles. I would like to test it, but I don’t have an idea how to move a line through them?
Can you give me a hint how you managed? 
Thanks and best regards
  
Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl
"SY WASABI"
Amel 54. #55
On the way from Sicily to Apulia 

 
Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Samstag, 4. Juli 2020 um 18:32
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: [AmelYachtOwners] Slap Silencer

Or, you can accomplish the same result using a couple of swimming noodles with a line through them and tied under the stern of the boat.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Barry Connor via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:44 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] sm 53 vs 54

 

Hi Jamie,

We have used this over the past 5 years. We were for 2 years in Port Corbieres,  Marseille and then wintered 3 years in Marina de Ragusa, Sicily. The Slap Silencer has 4 simple cords for easy attachment to the stern side upright rails, does get growth of algae which cleans off easily.This is available online. US product “www.slapsilencer.com”

I would recommend this if you are in a marina for a week or more.

We pack it away after fresh water wash and dry in supplied bag under our master bunk.

You will see that the Slap Silencer is more than a piece of canvas.

We have not needed it whilst we have been at anchor here for the past few months as we are always pointing into the breeze and small waves coming off shore.

 

Very Best 

 

Barry and Penny 

“SV Lady Penelope II”

Amel 54. #17

Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 

 



On Jul 4, 2020, at 09:19, Jamie Wendell <mysticshadow54@...> wrote:

Barry, I was reading this thread and saw your comment about the "Slap Silencer." You noted it was online, but where?
I have this problem with my 54, but mostly have become numb to the slapping in the aft cabin. The boat came with a very heavy canvas in a bag, and I suspect that is what it is for, but I have never tried it.
Can you provide more details about your solution? Is my bag carrying the right thing, and if so how do I use it?
Thanks,
Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44


--
Brent Cameron

Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator

Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada


Re: Slap Silencer

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Marc
I like the idea with the swimming noodles. I would like to test it, but I don’t have an idea how to move a line through them?
Can you give me a hint how you managed? 
Thanks and best regards
  
Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl
"SY WASABI"
Amel 54. #55
On the way from Sicily to Apulia 

 
Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Samstag, 4. Juli 2020 um 18:32
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: [AmelYachtOwners] Slap Silencer

Or, you can accomplish the same result using a couple of swimming noodles with a line through them and tied under the stern of the boat.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Barry Connor via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:44 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] sm 53 vs 54

 

Hi Jamie,

We have used this over the past 5 years. We were for 2 years in Port Corbieres,  Marseille and then wintered 3 years in Marina de Ragusa, Sicily. The Slap Silencer has 4 simple cords for easy attachment to the stern side upright rails, does get growth of algae which cleans off easily.This is available online. US product “www.slapsilencer.com”

I would recommend this if you are in a marina for a week or more.

We pack it away after fresh water wash and dry in supplied bag under our master bunk.

You will see that the Slap Silencer is more than a piece of canvas.

We have not needed it whilst we have been at anchor here for the past few months as we are always pointing into the breeze and small waves coming off shore.

 

Very Best 

 

Barry and Penny 

“SV Lady Penelope II”

Amel 54. #17

Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 

 



On Jul 4, 2020, at 09:19, Jamie Wendell <mysticshadow54@...> wrote:

Barry, I was reading this thread and saw your comment about the "Slap Silencer." You noted it was online, but where?
I have this problem with my 54, but mostly have become numb to the slapping in the aft cabin. The boat came with a very heavy canvas in a bag, and I suspect that is what it is for, but I have never tried it.
Can you provide more details about your solution? Is my bag carrying the right thing, and if so how do I use it?
Thanks,
Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44


Re: Boar speed om Amel SM200

 

There is not a simple answer to your question, but there are answers. There are 3 general choices and several more that will work:
1.) Replace the sonic speed SOW sensors. Several owners have indeed bought new sensors recently
2.) Add a B&G-compatible paddlewheel through-hull transducer for speed (SOW)
3. Add a SOG to SOW NEMA 0183 converter and everything works fine, except you cannot calculate "set & drift," but unless you plan to rac your SM, you will not need to know these.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 2:33 PM Slavko Despotovi <slavko@...> wrote:

Hello,

I just become the owner of SM 2000 hull nr. 279. Name Bonne Anse. Boat speed is not working. Surveyer Oliver said that problem is in sensor. Any experince if I would change with sensor for depth, temperature and speed sensor?

Thank you,

Slavko
SM 2000 279


Boar speed om Amel SM200

Slavko Despotovic
 

Hello,

I just become the owner of SM 2000 hull nr. 279. Name Bonne Anse. Boat speed is not working. Surveyer Oliver said that problem is in sensor. Any experince if I would change with sensor for depth, temperature and speed sensor?

Thank you,

Slavko
SM 2000 279


Re: Cruise and Max RPM #solution

 

Did your mechanic Isolate the 12-volt negative? 
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 1:10 PM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Marco,
Are you still using the AutoProp H6 with the new engine?  If yes, did you have it modified in any way?

Thanks,
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Jul 5, 2020 1:18 PM, Marco Mancini <marcomancini61@...> wrote:
dears,

the TMD22 with the mechanical gearbox (2,8 reduction factor) and the autoprop h6 was probably  never reached in our 20 years of SM  more than 2500 2600 rpm ,
The TMD22 engine characteristic curve show that the 78 hp ( the max power) is obtained at 3500 - 4200 rpm  but at 2500 the curve show 40 hp and the boat has never reached more than 7.5 knots 
Now we have moved to the yanmar 110 cv,  the new version of the yanmar 100) with gearbox with 2.3 rduction factor   (midway betwenn the 1.97 of amel 54 with 110 volvo and  2.8 of the yanmar 100 )  that is  the new version  of the well known  Yanmar 100 cv  installed by Amel  after the TMD22. In Italy due to a severe restrictions of  omologation certificate we had also to afford the cost of new homologation certificate but we hare happy with this change . indeed the boat seems to go much better, it has a cruise speed of 8,5  at 2300 rpm over 3200rpm ( max engine regime)  and also in the manoeuvres she is more prompt than before . 
cheers and good wind . 
marco mancini 
SM 304 




Il giorno 25 giu 2020, alle ore 16:55, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> ha scritto:

This is question without a definitive answer. 
We also have the TMD22. When we bought our boat (about 4 years used), we could get almost 3,000 rpm at max throttle. Our local diesel guy suggested cruising at 80% of max, or 2,400. Our max started to lessen within about a year. 
Ever since then, we have usually not been able to max out at 3,000. Usually max is 2,400 to 2,600, so we cruise at 80% of that.
Issues affecting max cruise rpm include bottom, prop (even one barnacle can make a difference), turbo condition, and countless others. 
I suppose that, just like me, the Volvo has also lost a little mojo as it has aged. 

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay

with its tiny keyboard

On Jun 25, 2020, at 10:10 AM, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:

Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain



Re: Cruise and Max RPM #solution

karkauai
 

Hi Marco,
Are you still using the AutoProp H6 with the new engine?  If yes, did you have it modified in any way?

Thanks,
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Jul 5, 2020 1:18 PM, Marco Mancini <marcomancini61@...> wrote:
dears,

the TMD22 with the mechanical gearbox (2,8 reduction factor) and the autoprop h6 was probably  never reached in our 20 years of SM  more than 2500 2600 rpm ,
The TMD22 engine characteristic curve show that the 78 hp ( the max power) is obtained at 3500 - 4200 rpm  but at 2500 the curve show 40 hp and the boat has never reached more than 7.5 knots 
Now we have moved to the yanmar 110 cv,  the new version of the yanmar 100) with gearbox with 2.3 rduction factor   (midway betwenn the 1.97 of amel 54 with 110 volvo and  2.8 of the yanmar 100 )  that is  the new version  of the well known  Yanmar 100 cv  installed by Amel  after the TMD22. In Italy due to a severe restrictions of  omologation certificate we had also to afford the cost of new homologation certificate but we hare happy with this change . indeed the boat seems to go much better, it has a cruise speed of 8,5  at 2300 rpm over 3200rpm ( max engine regime)  and also in the manoeuvres she is more prompt than before . 
cheers and good wind . 
marco mancini 
SM 304 




Il giorno 25 giu 2020, alle ore 16:55, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> ha scritto:

This is question without a definitive answer. 
We also have the TMD22. When we bought our boat (about 4 years used), we could get almost 3,000 rpm at max throttle. Our local diesel guy suggested cruising at 80% of max, or 2,400. Our max started to lessen within about a year. 
Ever since then, we have usually not been able to max out at 3,000. Usually max is 2,400 to 2,600, so we cruise at 80% of that.
Issues affecting max cruise rpm include bottom, prop (even one barnacle can make a difference), turbo condition, and countless others. 
I suppose that, just like me, the Volvo has also lost a little mojo as it has aged. 

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay

with its tiny keyboard

On Jun 25, 2020, at 10:10 AM, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:

Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain



Re: Cruise and Max RPM #solution

Marco Mancini
 

dears,

the TMD22 with the mechanical gearbox (2,8 reduction factor) and the autoprop h6 was probably  never reached in our 20 years of SM  more than 2500 2600 rpm ,
The TMD22 engine characteristic curve show that the 78 hp ( the max power) is obtained at 3500 - 4200 rpm  but at 2500 the curve show 40 hp and the boat has never reached more than 7.5 knots 
Now we have moved to the yanmar 110 cv,  the new version of the yanmar 100) with gearbox with 2.3 rduction factor   (midway betwenn the 1.97 of amel 54 with 110 volvo and  2.8 of the yanmar 100 )  that is  the new version  of the well known  Yanmar 100 cv  installed by Amel  after the TMD22. In Italy due to a severe restrictions of  omologation certificate we had also to afford the cost of new homologation certificate but we hare happy with this change . indeed the boat seems to go much better, it has a cruise speed of 8,5  at 2300 rpm over 3200rpm ( max engine regime)  and also in the manoeuvres she is more prompt than before . 
cheers and good wind . 
marco mancini 
SM 304 




Il giorno 25 giu 2020, alle ore 16:55, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> ha scritto:

This is question without a definitive answer. 
We also have the TMD22. When we bought our boat (about 4 years used), we could get almost 3,000 rpm at max throttle. Our local diesel guy suggested cruising at 80% of max, or 2,400. Our max started to lessen within about a year. 
Ever since then, we have usually not been able to max out at 3,000. Usually max is 2,400 to 2,600, so we cruise at 80% of that.
Issues affecting max cruise rpm include bottom, prop (even one barnacle can make a difference), turbo condition, and countless others. 
I suppose that, just like me, the Volvo has also lost a little mojo as it has aged. 

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay

with its tiny keyboard

On Jun 25, 2020, at 10:10 AM, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:

Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain


Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)

Dean Gillies
 

Scott/Jamie,
I wonder if you could please do me a huge favour, and measure the voltages at pins 1 through 8 on the blue E51385 pump controller with the pump operating and also when the pump is not operating (you may have to temporarily turn up the temps on your fridges to make the compressors turn the pump off). So that's 16 DC voltage measurements in total, 8 with pump operating and 8 with pump not operating.

Fix the black multimeter probe on pin 9 (Negative) and measure the other 8 pins with the red probe.
(note pins are numbered Left to right on the blue box).

I need this data to confirm my understanding of the circuit operation.

many thanks
Dean Gillies
SY Stella


Re: Isolated ground solenoid

eric freedman
 

Sorry Tom= Mark--
I have been sending all this to Marks attention--
One step at a time however the black solenoid to the left of the valeo is a Yanmar oem starter solenoid is also in this circuit.
This could also be the problem. But, lets check out the voltage to the Valeo first.
Fair Winds,
Good Night.
Eric
Sm376 Kimberlite

On July 5, 2020 at 4:47 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

STOP LEAVER

On July 5, 2020 at 4:47 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

You might note a very small voltage drop at the positive valeo stud .5 volts as the electric goes through a diode first.
You should get about 12 volts here when the key is turned. If you keep the top leaver depressed you can keep the key in the start position for a bit

On July 5, 2020 at 4:42 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

The negative attachment is on the big stud to the left. The Positive for the meter is the stud on the valeo with the orange and blue wire (start and stop) note there is a small black wire sneaking behind the Valeo connected to the battery stud connection--that is the negative connection that actuates the solenoid-- always connected to the battery

On July 5, 2020 at 3:25 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376

Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.

On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Tom,

 

In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid

 

To,

Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.

Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?

If you are able to start the engine then try the following.

Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.

 

If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.

 

The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.

Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.

It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.

 

That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x. 

 

I would love to know what you find.

The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.

 

If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.

It could be an internal connection.  It is a great spare to have.

 

The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.

The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button

Where are you located?

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376

 

Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.

somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite. 

 

 

 

On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai

 



 

 


 


 


 

 

 

 

 

 


Re: Isolated ground solenoid

eric freedman
 

STOP LEAVER

On July 5, 2020 at 4:47 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

You might note a very small voltage drop at the positive valeo stud .5 volts as the electric goes through a diode first.
You should get about 12 volts here when the key is turned. If you keep the top leaver depressed you can keep the key in the start position for a bit

On July 5, 2020 at 4:42 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

The negative attachment is on the big stud to the left. The Positive for the meter is the stud on the valeo with the orange and blue wire (start and stop) note there is a small black wire sneaking behind the Valeo connected to the battery stud connection--that is the negative connection that actuates the solenoid-- always connected to the battery

On July 5, 2020 at 3:25 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376

Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.

On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Tom,

 

In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid

 

To,

Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.

Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?

If you are able to start the engine then try the following.

Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.

 

If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.

 

The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.

Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.

It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.

 

That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x. 

 

I would love to know what you find.

The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.

 

If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.

It could be an internal connection.  It is a great spare to have.

 

The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.

The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button

Where are you located?

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376

 

Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.

somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite. 

 

 

 

On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai

 



 

 


 


 


 

 

 

 


Re: Isolated ground solenoid

eric freedman
 

You might note a very small voltage drop at the positive valeo stud .5 volts as the electric goes through a diode first.
You should get about 12 volts here when the key is turned. If you keep the top leaver depressed you can keep the key in the start position for a bit

On July 5, 2020 at 4:42 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

The negative attachment is on the big stud to the left. The Positive for the meter is the stud on the valeo with the orange and blue wire (start and stop) note there is a small black wire sneaking behind the Valeo connected to the battery stud connection--that is the negative connection that actuates the solenoid-- always connected to the battery

On July 5, 2020 at 3:25 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376

Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.

On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Tom,

 

In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid

 

To,

Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.

Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?

If you are able to start the engine then try the following.

Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.

 

If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.

 

The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.

Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.

It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.

 

That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x. 

 

I would love to know what you find.

The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.

 

If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.

It could be an internal connection.  It is a great spare to have.

 

The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.

The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button

Where are you located?

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376

 

Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.

somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite. 

 

 

 

On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai

 



 

 


 


 


 

 


Isolated ground solenoid

eric freedman
 

The negative attachment is on the big stud to the left. The Positive for the meter is the stud on the valeo with the orange and blue wire (start and stop) note there is a small black wire sneaking behind the Valeo connected to the battery stud connection--that is the negative connection that actuates the solenoid-- always connected to the battery

On July 5, 2020 at 3:25 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376

Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.

On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Tom,

 

In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid

 

To,

Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.

Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?

If you are able to start the engine then try the following.

Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.

 

If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.

 

The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.

Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.

It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.

 

That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x. 

 

I would love to know what you find.

The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.

 

If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.

It could be an internal connection.  It is a great spare to have.

 

The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.

The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button

Where are you located?

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376

 

Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.

somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite. 

 

 

 

On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai

 



 

 


 


 


Re: Isolated ground solenoid

eric freedman
 

Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376

Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.

On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Tom,

 

In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid

 

To,

Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.

Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?

If you are able to start the engine then try the following.

Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.

 

If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.

 

The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.

Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.

It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.

 

That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x. 

 

I would love to know what you find.

The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.

 

If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.

It could be an internal connection.  It is a great spare to have.

 

The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.

The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button

Where are you located?

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376

 

Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.

somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite. 

 

 

 

On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai


 

 


Re: File /CockpitEnclosure.pdf uploaded #file-notice

Gerhard Mueller
 

Ralf
You are welcome. I am at place A14 in the Marina Kalamata.
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Isolated ground solenoid

Mark Erdos
 

Tom,

 

In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid

 

To,

Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.

Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?

If you are able to start the engine then try the following.

Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.

 

If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.

 

The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.

Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.

It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.

 

That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x. 

 

I would love to know what you find.

The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.

 

If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.

It could be an internal connection.  It is a great spare to have.

 

The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.

The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button

Where are you located?

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376

 

Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.

somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite. 

 

 

 

On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai


Re: Isolated ground solenoid

eric freedman
 

To,

Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.

Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?

If you are able to start the engine then try the following.

Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.


If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.


The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.

Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.

It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.


That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x. 


I would love to know what you find.

The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.


If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.

It could be an internal connection.  It is a great spare to have.


The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.

The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button

Where are you located?

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376


Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.

somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite. 




On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai