Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water membranes replacement

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Soraya & Thomas,

When Bill Kinney wrote about the dry saltwater membranes, that was the first I heard about the existence of these. So, I cannot comment on any experience with them. I am not sure how long they have been available. When I last bought membranes, Air Water Ice did not have these. In fact, it was the owner of Air Water Ice that told me there was no way for me to buy spares and the necessity to keep the membranes wet until installed. But, things change and one person's limited experience does not mean that his experience is complete. 

I believe that if you can find your size priced between 160-185 euro ex-VAT, that will be about the best price. The best price for the 40 inch membrane for the 160 liter will be around 200 euro. 

The difficult part will be removing the end caps. If you can clamp the end caps in a vise and then twist and pull the tubes from the end caps, you will have no problems. If you try to remove the end caps in your cockpit without a vise, you will have difficulty. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Aug 8, 2017 04:17, "SV Garulfo svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill & Bill & all,

We had already downloaded Bill R's PDF guide shared earlier this year, but these additional clarifications are very welcome. Thank you!
 
We are already living aboard (so need membranes shipped), and they are to be installed immediately not for spares (so hopefully wet/dry will be less of an issue this time round).

We will report back to the group on this when sourcing and work has been done :), if useful to others in the region. Many suppliers seem to apply a significant premium so definitely something worth shopping around for, especially if you need 3 like on the DUO100 (we have seen prices ranging from 175 to 480 EUR for 1 membrane !..).

Also curious about how you establish when your membranes need replacing? We are assuming this is a matter of flow (L/h) and/or output TDS measurement. Anything else to consider? Have you generally found that membranes can be used close to their spec (#hours)?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience,

Soraya
& Thomas
-- 
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Port Cros, Côte d'azur, France

On 6 August 2017 at 16:03, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Soraya & Thomas,

I see that Hutter gave you a source in the EU for membranes. Hint: According to Air Water Ice, Filmtec SW membranes have a shelf-life of 6 months. If you suspect that the supplier has had inventory this long, don't buy the membranes from that supplier.

The following information will probably be helpful:
  1. There is only ONE manufacturer of these SW membranes worldwide, so any membrane you buy is made by Filmtec.
  2. There is a special diagonal-cut O'ring that is shipped installed on the membranes from Filmtec. Be careful because this O'ring only allows insertion into the pressure tube in one direction. When you see it, it will be obvious. Also, be careful and aware when you remove the old membranes of the orientation of this special O'ring. Mark the tube and number each tube so that you do not make any mistakes. Additionally, there are a number of O'rings that you should replace when doing this job. The small Bobbin-Interconnects have O'rings and the End Caps have O rings. You should order these from dessalator.com to ensure the correct size.
  3. Hint: the best thing that I have found to use on new O'rings and nitrile gaskets is a silicone grease that you can find in dive shops. It is Trident Silicone Grease. It will also add life to aged O'rings.
  4. Hint: the end-caps will be difficult to remove without damaging them. Care a patience are required if you have never done this before.
  5. Hint: If you buy membranes and either ship them, or carry them in airplane-checked-luggage, buy PVC pipe and end caps from a plumbing supplier. Insert the membrane into the PVC pipe to protect it in shipping. Another Hint: Security will likely want to open these PVC pipes to see what is inside. Do not glue the PVC end caps and be sure to drill a small hole in the end cap. The hole allows for air to enter when pulling the cap off...without the hole the end cap may have to be cut off because vacuum may hold the cap in place. Tape your membrane invoice to the outside of the PVC pipe so that Security can see the document.
Good luck, and I hope that this email helps you.

​Best,​

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


 

--
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Port Cros, Côte d'azur, France


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge pump hoses on SM2K's?

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Drew,

I just went down and measure, since I did not remove the hose, I am not 100% certain, but the “OD” appeared to be 32 mm which is 1.26” which is really 1.25” or 1 1/4 “ - I think this is a standard size for bilge pump.
You will need a hose with an “ID” of 32mm or 1/14”

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Port de Plaisance de Gustavia, Saint Barthélémy, FWI



--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 8/7/17, drew.gaffney@vanderbilt.edu [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge pump hoses on SM2K's?
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, August 7, 2017, 9:18 PM


 









Does anyone have the spec's on the
bilge pump hoses on the AMFA "Marina" pumps.  My
hoses measure 1.5" OD, but I'm trying to find the
exact ID for the hose and the OD of the "tree"
adapters on the pump. Unfortunately, I'm now in the US
and can't find my notes with the measurements.  
Thanks,Drew
SY Revelation SM2K#390
Lying
Oban, Scotland/UK


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Cushion size for SM2K

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Rafael,

Thanks for the compliment, Bill Rouse is the encyclopedia, I am the pocket version!

The Cockpit seat is a little more difficult, because it is not square, so it was easier to take some pictures for you.
http://nikimat.com/cockpit_seat_cushion.html

You will see, view from the top that it is arched and from the front also arched.

From the top, the center section is curved back 4 cm .
The width is 56 cm and the depth is 31 cm

From the front, the center is curved 5.5 cm lower, which make the contact surface 57.5 cm, but in my opinion take 56 cm

You will see pictures of the seat suction done by the previous owner, note the velcro strap in the middle.

I forgot to put on the drawing the dimensions of the back seat:
width is 59 cm, height is 18 cm, there is also a curve, but it is a bit irrelevant but make the contact surface 60 cm


On a personal note, since last Friday there was 80% of a Cyclone for this week, I was going to go to Saint Martin last weekend.
Since Anse Marcel is full until December, instead to go back to Island Water World, I was going to go to Port de Plaisance on the Dutch side as they offer good price on the low season but they became full in a few hours.
As the risk of Invest 99 of becoming a cyclone has decrease I will contact them back and likely go this weekend or when they have space. If not then I go back to Island Water World.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Port de Plaisance de Gustavia, Saint Barthélémy, FWI




--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 8/7/17, Rafael Caviedes <rcavie@gmail.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Cushion size for SM2K
To: "Alexandre Uster Von Baar" <uster@rocketmail.com>
Cc: "Rafael Caviedes Duprà" <rcavie@gmail.com>
Date: Monday, August 7, 2017, 4:10 PM

Thank you
AlexanderYou are like an
Encyclopedia!!Thank you
very much.Do you have the
size of the chair? (helm)
When
you will be again in St Martin?
Best
regards
Rafael



El 07-08-2017, a las 12:55, Alexandre
Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
escribió:
Hello Rafael, 

The Port
and Starboard have different length (because of the Bow
Thruster commend). 

So the
Port side is 221 cm long by 46 cm (you could go 48 cm width
is going over the rounded part but I don’t recommend
it)

The
Starboard side is 228 cm long (same width of 46 cm)

On my
boat, each side is divided in 2 section, which I recommend
as it is easier to carry and store when not use.  

On each
side of the Mast the length is 50 cm and the width is 42 cm
(you could also go 44 cm, but I don’t recommend it).

I took the
liberty to change the name of the thread.  

Sincerely,
Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Port de Plaisance de Gustavia,
Saint Barthélémy, FWI





Hi to all. Some of you have the
size of
the cushions for the cockpit
AMEL SM 2K???I am
far from my boat!!Thank
you!!RafaelSM 2k 246


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bimini Alterations?

Patrick McAneny
 

Steve, I increased the length of the arches and moved them aft to fit in the original holes , the last arch , the furthest aft , I attached to the coaming  just aft of where the hard dodger ends. If we don't have pics in our photo file, we will add some in the next day or so or send them to you. I am 6'1'' and I have to bend my neck a little , but don't even realize it and with the large openings I can stand up thru the bimini on both port and starboard sides . I can completely see all sails and ventilation is great. I feel the benefit of not raising it too much , both aesthetics and still being able to fold it down into its original storage area is worth slightly less head room. The extension zips into the trailing edge of the bimini and attaches to  stainless tubing that is attached to the mizzen shrouds and in the center attached below the mizzen goose neck . I put a slight bow in it to match the bow in the aft arch , it looks better than being straight and allows water to run off to the sides.
Pat 
SM Shenanigan


-----Original Message-----
From: steve_morrison@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Aug 7, 2017 10:00 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bimini Alterations?

 
Thank you Pat.  When you say that you raised your bimini framing a few inches, how did you do that?  I assume that you mean that you had new arches shaped that stood taller than the originals?  Did you use the original attachment points on the downslope of the hard dodger (such that I would imagine that you are no longer able to get the bimini to fold and tuck into its original stowed position), or did you move the attachment points farther and aft lower to allow for longer arches that still stowed in the original position.  

Any of the other owners reading this that may have changed the geometry of the original stainless arch frames, where did you attach them, and can you still fold and secure the bimini to the top of the hard dodger?

I am not on my boat again until wednesday and thus can't remember whether the trailing edge of the hard dodger descends at at an angle greater than or less than a 45 deg ree angle, and therefor, whether moving the attachment points lower and aft with a lengthened arch would gain in overall height or not while still folding as the original.  

I will check for for your Shenanigans photos tonight.

All the best,
Steve Morrison
SM 380 TouRai
Brunswick, GA


Re: Bimini Alterations?

Paul Osterberg
 

Steven
On Kerpa we have a second set of side and rear panels in a mesh material that attached to the rail to give more space and air I the cockpit , which is invaluable when the hot sun is burning.
Further we had our stainless steel frames made longer by ca 10 cm by welding a fantastic work you can,t see it.
The Bimini is so high that we have changed the block for the mian sheet to a low friction ring at the mizzenmast mast, had not been any problem with that solution.
By open the both front panels we get much better climate in the cockpit compare with the old solution on the very hot days 
When sailing in cold or rough conditions we have the side panels down, and hardly feel the harsh conditions a great improvement.

Paul on SY Kerpa SM


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Hyeres Islands

Peter Forbes
 

Thomas,

Thank you - I thought so, but my heart leapt when I saw you were there thinking perhaps dreaming that you had some good deal.

Thanks for your help - I think 25 years is beyond my life expectancy and certainly above my pay grade!

Peter
Peter Forbes
0044 7836 209730
Carango  Sailing Ketch
Amel 54 #035
In a Hurricane cradle in Grenada

On 8 Aug 2017, at 11:07, SV Garulfo svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


[changing subject for clarity]

Hi Peter,

Port Cros is the smallest of the 3 main islands near Hyeres and the harbour can't accommodate yachts our size. There are moorings just outside the harbour but even those are limited to 15m length. We are at anchor near Bagaud island. 

You may have meant Porquerolles, which is a bigger island to the west. The harbour houses a few Amels. I know they offer an off-season only deal but I don't know how expensive it is. If we walk by the marina office one of these days I'll inquire. We stayed a couple of nights over NYE and it was around 50€ (but no water, no electricity for that particular pontoon). 

Permanent berths are, like with all marinas around these islands, near impossible to get, with 25+ year waiting lists. 

Hope this helps.

Fair winds 

Thomas
-- 
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Port Cros, Côte d'azur, France

On Tue, 8 Aug 2017 at 11:23, Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Thomas,


Can you tell me about Port Cros - is it very expensive to over winter? will they accept bookings for a Summer season?

Peter
Peter Forbes
0044 7836 209730
Carango  Sailing Ketch
Amel 54 #035
In a Hurricane cradle in Grenada







[Amel Yacht Owners] Hyeres Islands

Sv Garulfo
 

[changing subject for clarity]

Hi Peter,

Port Cros is the smallest of the 3 main islands near Hyeres and the harbour can't accommodate yachts our size. There are moorings just outside the harbour but even those are limited to 15m length. We are at anchor near Bagaud island. 

You may have meant Porquerolles, which is a bigger island to the west. The harbour houses a few Amels. I know they offer an off-season only deal but I don't know how expensive it is. If we walk by the marina office one of these days I'll inquire. We stayed a couple of nights over NYE and it was around 50€ (but no water, no electricity for that particular pontoon). 

Permanent berths are, like with all marinas around these islands, near impossible to get, with 25+ year waiting lists. 

Hope this helps.

Fair winds 

Thomas
-- 
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Port Cros, Côte d'azur, France

On Tue, 8 Aug 2017 at 11:23, Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Thomas,


Can you tell me about Port Cros - is it very expensive to over winter? will they accept bookings for a Summer season?

Peter
Peter Forbes
0044 7836 209730
Carango  Sailing Ketch
Amel 54 #035
In a Hurricane cradle in Grenada




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water membranes replacement

Peter Forbes
 

Thomas,

Can you tell me about Port Cros - is it very expensive to over winter? will they accept bookings for a Summer season?

Peter
Peter Forbes
0044 7836 209730
Carango  Sailing Ketch
Amel 54 #035
In a Hurricane cradle in Grenada

On 8 Aug 2017, at 10:16, SV Garulfo svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi Bill & Bill & all,

We had already downloaded Bill R's PDF guide shared earlier this year, but these additional clarifications are very welcome. Thank you!
 
We are already living aboard (so need membranes shipped), and they are to be installed immediately not for spares (so hopefully wet/dry will be less of an issue this time round).

We will report back to the group on this when sourcing and work has been done :), if useful to others in the region. Many suppliers seem to apply a significant premium so definitely something worth shopping around for, especially if you need 3 like on the DUO100 (we have seen prices ranging from 175 to 480 EUR for 1 membrane !..).

Also curious about how you establish when your membranes need replacing? We are assuming this is a matter of flow (L/h) and/or output TDS measurement. Anything else to consider? Have you generally found that membranes can be used close to their spec (#hours)?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience,

Soraya
& Thomas
-- 
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Port Cros, Côte d'azur, France

On 6 August 2017 at 16:03, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Soraya & Thomas,

I see that Hutter gave you a source in the EU for membranes. Hint: According to Air Water Ice, Filmtec SW membranes have a shelf-life of 6 months. If you suspect that the supplier has had inventory this long, don't buy the membranes from that supplier.

The following information will probably be helpful:
  1. There is only ONE manufacturer of these SW membranes worldwide, so any membrane you buy is made by Filmtec.
  2. There is a special diagonal-cut O'ring that is shipped installed on the membranes from Filmtec. Be careful because this O'ring only allows insertion into the pressure tube in one direction. When you see it, it will be obvious. Also, be careful and aware when you remove the old membranes of the orientation of this special O'ring. Mark the tube and number each tube so that you do not make any mistakes. Additionally, there are a number of O'rings that you should replace when doing this job. The small Bobbin-Interconnects have O'rings and the End Caps have O rings. You should order these from dessalator.com to ensure the correct size.
  3. Hint: the best thing that I have found to use on new O'rings and nitrile gaskets is a silicone grease that you can find in dive shops. It is Trident Silicone Grease. It will also add life to aged O'rings.
  4. Hint: the end-caps will be difficult to remove without damaging them. Care a patience are required if you have never done this before.
  5. Hint: If you buy membranes and either ship them, or carry them in airplane-checked-luggage, buy PVC pipe and end caps from a plumbing supplier. Insert the membrane into the PVC pipe to protect it in shipping. Another Hint: Security will likely want to open these PVC pipes to see what is inside. Do not glue the PVC end caps and be sure to drill a small hole in the end cap. The hole allows for air to enter when pulling the cap off...without the hole the end cap may have to be cut off because vacuum may hold the cap in place. Tape your membrane invoice to the outside of the PVC pipe so that Security can see the document.
Good luck, and I hope that this email helps you.

​Best,​

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


 

-- 
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Port Cros, Côte d'azur, France



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water membranes replacement

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi Bill & Bill & all,

We had already downloaded Bill R's PDF guide shared earlier this year, but these additional clarifications are very welcome. Thank you!
 
We are already living aboard (so need membranes shipped), and they are to be installed immediately not for spares (so hopefully wet/dry will be less of an issue this time round).

We will report back to the group on this when sourcing and work has been done :), if useful to others in the region. Many suppliers seem to apply a significant premium so definitely something worth shopping around for, especially if you need 3 like on the DUO100 (we have seen prices ranging from 175 to 480 EUR for 1 membrane !..).

Also curious about how you establish when your membranes need replacing? We are assuming this is a matter of flow (L/h) and/or output TDS measurement. Anything else to consider? Have you generally found that membranes can be used close to their spec (#hours)?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience,

Soraya
& Thomas
-- 
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Port Cros, Côte d'azur, France

On 6 August 2017 at 16:03, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Soraya & Thomas,

I see that Hutter gave you a source in the EU for membranes. Hint: According to Air Water Ice, Filmtec SW membranes have a shelf-life of 6 months. If you suspect that the supplier has had inventory this long, don't buy the membranes from that supplier.

The following information will probably be helpful:
  1. There is only ONE manufacturer of these SW membranes worldwide, so any membrane you buy is made by Filmtec.
  2. There is a special diagonal-cut O'ring that is shipped installed on the membranes from Filmtec. Be careful because this O'ring only allows insertion into the pressure tube in one direction. When you see it, it will be obvious. Also, be careful and aware when you remove the old membranes of the orientation of this special O'ring. Mark the tube and number each tube so that you do not make any mistakes. Additionally, there are a number of O'rings that you should replace when doing this job. The small Bobbin-Interconnects have O'rings and the End Caps have O rings. You should order these from dessalator.com to ensure the correct size.
  3. Hint: the best thing that I have found to use on new O'rings and nitrile gaskets is a silicone grease that you can find in dive shops. It is Trident Silicone Grease. It will also add life to aged O'rings.
  4. Hint: the end-caps will be difficult to remove without damaging them. Care a patience are required if you have never done this before.
  5. Hint: If you buy membranes and either ship them, or carry them in airplane-checked-luggage, buy PVC pipe and end caps from a plumbing supplier. Insert the membrane into the PVC pipe to protect it in shipping. Another Hint: Security will likely want to open these PVC pipes to see what is inside. Do not glue the PVC end caps and be sure to drill a small hole in the end cap. The hole allows for air to enter when pulling the cap off...without the hole the end cap may have to be cut off because vacuum may hold the cap in place. Tape your membrane invoice to the outside of the PVC pipe so that Security can see the document.
Good luck, and I hope that this email helps you.

​Best,​

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


 

--
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Port Cros, Côte d'azur, France


Re: Bimini Alterations?

greatketch@...
 

The "skylight" in the dodger is roughly 2 feet on each side.  It is between the first and second arch. Having it means I don't get a kink in my neck when furling the mainsail.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Bar Harbor, Maine




---In amelyachtowners@..., <steve_morrison@...> wrote :

Thank you Bill,

I had not considered getting a second set of side panels with shade material only.  I will give that more thought.  As for the larger view window you put into the top, did you place this between the first (forward most) arch frame and the second? I really like this idea and hadn't considered it.  How big is it?  Certainly allowing a zippered panel on the forward edge starboard seems invaluable for the increase in ventilation regardless of whether is is a window or fabric flap.  

Thank you for your response.

All the best,
Steve Morrison
SM 380 TouRai
Brunswick, GA


Re: Bimini Alterations?

steve_morrison@...
 

Thank you Alain,

Wonderful of you to put so many photos up and to provide wonderful details.  Though it sounds as if the "Hafner" is a known entity, it is the first I have heard of it, so again, thank you.

All the best,
Steve Morrison
SM380 TouRai
Brunswick, GA



Re: Bimini Alterations?

steve_morrison@...
 

Thank you Peregrinus,

I hadn't considered using a hard window in the side panels.  Would you do it again?  I can appreciate the value of clear site and improved visibility for hat location.  I also had not considered the use of a material such as Phifertex on a second zip track.  What colors did you go with for your Sunbrella and Phifertex?  Are they both a version close to the original cover, or something else?

All the best,
Steve Morrison
SM 380 TouRai
Brunswick GA


Re: Bimini Alterations?

steve_morrison@...
 

Thank you Bill,

I had not considered getting a second set of side panels with shade material only.  I will give that more thought.  As for the larger view window you put into the top, did you place this between the first (forward most) arch frame and the second? I really like this idea and hadn't considered it.  How big is it?  Certainly allowing a zippered panel on the forward edge starboard seems invaluable for the increase in ventilation regardless of whether is is a window or fabric flap.  

Thank you for your response.

All the best,
Steve Morrison
SM 380 TouRai
Brunswick, GA


Bilge pump hoses on SM2K's?

drew.gaffney@...
 

Does anyone have the spec's on the bilge pump hoses on the AMFA "Marina" pumps.  My hoses measure 1.5" OD, but I'm trying to find the exact ID for the hose and the OD of the "tree" adapters on the pump. Unfortunately, I'm now in the US and can't find my notes with the measurements.  
Thanks,

Drew
SY Revelation SM2K#390
Lying Oban, Scotland/UK


Re: Bimini Alterations?

steve_morrison@...
 

Thank you Paul,

Yours were actually among the photos I had pulled down from the internet search months ago, though I hadn't made note at the time from which boat the images came.  A solution such as yours is really what I am hoping for, as the ability to stand at the helm with clear view would seem invaluable.  Though not notable tall, at 6' I find the current bimini to be a real challenge to adapt to.  

Thanks for posting your photos.  

All the best, 
Steve Morrison
SM 380 TouRai
Brunswick, GA


Re: Bimini Alterations?

steve_morrison@...
 

Thank you Pat.  When you say that you raised your bimini framing a few inches, how did you do that?  I assume that you mean that you had new arches shaped that stood taller than the originals?  Did you use the original attachment points on the downslope of the hard dodger (such that I would imagine that you are no longer able to get the bimini to fold and tuck into its original stowed position), or did you move the attachment points farther and aft lower to allow for longer arches that still stowed in the original position.  

Any of the other owners reading this that may have changed the geometry of the original stainless arch frames, where did you attach them, and can you still fold and secure the bimini to the top of the hard dodger?

I am not on my boat again until wednesday and thus can't remember whether the trailing edge of the hard dodger descends at at an angle greater than or less than a 45 degree angle, and therefor, whether moving the attachment points lower and aft with a lengthened arch would gain in overall height or not while still folding as the original.  

I will check for for your Shenanigans photos tonight.

All the best,
Steve Morrison
SM 380 TouRai
Brunswick, GA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washer major water flooding !!!

Mark Erdos
 

Bill,

 

Good point. For not very much money it makes sense to just replace the pump. Now that I think about it, if someone goes to all the trouble to access the pump, it makes sense to just replace it (and hope that solves the problem). There is a pretty good chance the water in the washer is staying there because the pump has failed. There is not that much to washing machines (motor, pump, water heater and electrical board are pretty much it).

 

Jose,

 

If I were in your shoes, I’d buy a pump and replace it. There is a very good probability this will resolve your issue. Also, while you are in the machine, this is a good time to replace the drain hose.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Grenada

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 6:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washer major water flooding !!!

 

 

One more tidbit of information for Super Maramu owners with a Thompson washer. Your washer is at least 11 years old at this point and if you have not replaced the water pump, you most certainly will replace it. I ordered and installed the pump in the link Mark Erdos supplied:  http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1087464/universal-washing-machine-drain-pump

 

Use this information to your advantage.

 

Jose, I am sure that Mark was talking about the outside metal panel of the washer,, but let me caution you that the failure I had with the water pump could not be detected this way because the pump motor failed in such a way that it vibrated, but did not turn. 

 

Best,


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School 
www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

On Sun, Aug 6, 2017 at 2:54 PM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Jose,

 

I think you could run the unit with the panel off so you can access the workings of the washer. The pump is easy to spot and replace. During the rinse cycle you could feel the pump with your hand to see if it is operational. If not: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1087464/universal-washing-machine-drain-pump

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Grenada

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 6, 2017 2:37 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washer major water flooding !!!

 

 

The last time we tried to use the washer, it worked fine until  the rinsing cycle and after a few minutes it started to dump water to the floor.  It was not just a small leak it was a major flood!!!.  When I turned the electricity off, the leak continued for a while and then stoped but the drum was full of water (about 2/3 of the top).  Today I removed the enclosure and repeated the operation. The white drain hose is not obstructed  but I was unable to see if water was being pumped out. I checked pump in the front and it did not seem to have any thing stoping the rotor from spinning.  My thought is that perhaps the pump is not working and the water from the first was does not drain.  So when the second rinsing water is introduced it fills it all the way, eventually getting out. 

 

Any thoughts?  How could I see if the pump is working?

 

Thanks a lot 

 

Jose Venegas

Ipanema SM200 278, 

Boston

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Modified SM Prop Shaft Seal Bush

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Hardness of stainless steel 316 does not vary tangible. Bushing from stainless 316 will  definitely last longer, but the bushing will cost much more. 316 steel is expensive and hard to machin. But it is very good corrosion resistant material, good for salt water. If people are interested I can find mashin shop that can make them. We have to order 100 bushings or more. Otherwise setup cost is too much.

Vladimir Sonsev
SM 345
"LIFE IS GOOD"


On Aug 7, 2017 10:57 AM, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ian, All, and especially newbies;

Most of you know that I have been and will always be the person in this group that warns everyone about changing an Amel design. It is nothing personal. I love all things Amel and I take it as my responsibility; so, because of that responsibility, I will offer the other side of CRUSADER's report and recommendation...nothing personal, but I am the self-appointed protector of all things Amel, and will always be the one to point out the RISK vs the REWARD in changing an Amel design.

<<<>>>
I am certainly no expert, but I believe that stainless steel comes in at least 5 types and also different hardnesses; and the Nitrile Buna-N seals are made in different hardnesses. Although I personally do not need the answer to the following questions, I believe anyone attempting to follow your recommendation should know: What type of stainless steel and hardness you used? What was the hardness of the seals? What were the engine hours between servicing?

I would guess that to obtain different results than the Amel-proven system, you have to either scientifically solve the wear issue to achieve a different balance between wear of the seal and wear of the bushing, or use a trial and error method. I assume that your method was trial and error, which resulted in changing the balance of wear between the wear bushing and the wear on the lips of the seals; which extended your haulout interval - your goal. 

We must remember that there will be wear between the lips of the seal and the wear bushing on the C-Drive. It is obvious to anyone who has serviced an Amel C-Drive that with the current Amel design the wear bushing appears to wear more than the seal lips. 

I would assume that one could scientifically change the balance to increase the interval of haulouts. However, it makes sense to me that unless a scientific approach is used, we would be playing Russian roulette with a very expensive part of our boat.

Don't take what I am saying as criticism. I am happy that you achieved your goal. My goal was to haul out every 2 years for more reasons than C-Drive maintenance.

I would urge all readers of this message to stick with proven Amel supplied parts and procedures, rather than changing something that you do not completely understand. I do not have the metallurgical and mechanical engineering expertise to develop a better system than Amel's wear bushing and seals, nor do I believe any of us have that knowledge. 

And, I will take this a step further: Many of the Amel systems that I have been exposed to, obviously take into consideration the required maintenance and the level of experience and knowledge of the person performing the job. When I managed new product development, I used the term "child proof." When I asked my staff if the new product was "child proof," they knew that I was asking if it would pass the test of the most ignorant user. I never met Henri Amel, but from my experience with his boats, I believe he also used my term, or one similar.

Until recently, I had no idea that the Nitrile Buna-N seals are available in a hardness range from 40-90, and I do not know the hardness of the Nitrile Buna-N lip seals that Amel uses. We all know that bronze, brass, and Naval brass are available in different hardnesses. I suspect that none of us know the hardness of the wear bushing that Amel uses, nor do we know the percent of copper, tin, and zinc . Without this information, I believe that changing the balance of wear between the bushing and the seal should not be attempted, unless you understand the huge risk for what, I believe, is very little reward.

Ian, it is very good to have you return to this forum. I have missed you and your posts. Probably none of us have more miles in a Super Maramu than you have.

​Best,​

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550



Re: Are Tri-Radial Cut Sails Best?

Dave_Benjamin
 

Ian, 
I'm a sailmaker and former Amel owner. 

The probable reason you're getting better performance out of the new sail is that the Radian sail stretched like all Dacron sails do. Your crosscut sail from the discount loft will stretch (probably even sooner) and performance will suffer. It should also be noted that North doesn't publish specifications for their proprietary cloth, which makes objective comparison with cloth from other manufacturers impossible. 

All Amel ketches have large overlap low aspect genoas, which makes radial construction a good choice. With the main, which is a higher aspect ratio, the loads are much more closely aligned with the leech. Any time we have loads closely aligned with the leech, we can use a crosscut design with a cloth that has a lot of strength in the fill to achieve good shape holding economically. 

Since the Amel is somewhat of a headsail driven boat, investing in the very best cloth and construction for the genoa makes sense. If we're using a woven product or traditional cruise laminate, radial construction is a natural choice. The most efficient construction in terms of strength to weight ratio, is a modern load path membrane. We don't see those too often on an Amel, but perhaps in the future we'll see them. 

Many Amel owners have chosen Dimension Polyant HydraNet Radial cloth, which is very durable and doesn't suffer from stretch anywhere near as much as products like your Radian sail. However it's costly material and to me, only makes sense for boats that are engaged in distance voyaging. I don't think it's warranted for a seasonally sailed boat somewhere like the Caribbean or Med. There are some other good choices for that type of sailing.

Keep in mind that your windward performance on a SM is limited by the keel shape as well as the outboard tracks. Even if you were to have your sheets further inboard, you wouldn't get that much more windward ability on account of that "fat" keel. I am by no means critical of the design. We loved our Amel and didn't mind giving up some windward capability. Besides, in large seas, you don't sail hard on the wind anyway. 



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sv_freespirit@...> wrote :

My tri-radial cut genoa is showing signs of degradation on one of the
leech panels. I have replaced it with a genoa made by SuperSails of
Florida which I purchased as a spare when over there. The SuperSails
sail was made for a SM but it is not tri-radial cut. The panels are
parallel slabs slanted upwards from the luff to the leech at about 30
degrees. The shape is beautiful, though it's not made as strongly as my
North Sails Israel sail made of Radian.

What I have found is that I can sail a full 6 degrees closer to the wind
even in light conditions than the tri-radial sail. This is a very much
appreciated improvement especially on the SM with it's sheet tracks so
far outboard. 39 degrees is now the norm.

It therefor begs the question, are tri-radial cut sails the best choice
for our boat? Can anyone comment?

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 (2003) Crusader Zambiko Rhodes


Re: Modified SM Bow Thruster

greatketch@...
 

Ian,

Sounds good.  I might steal some of these ideas next time my thruster comes out for service.  Thanks for sharing the details.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Bar Harbor Maine.