Date   

Mizzenmast shroud fitting?

Stephen MORRISON <steve_morrison@...>
 

As a new SM owner (2003 #380) looking into replacing the standing rigging, I can't figure out the function of the swage fitting (ring a couple feet up) on the mizzenmast shrouds. Can anyone explain it's function? I feel certain it has one. More importantly, should I replicate it on new shrouds?

All the best,
Steve
SV Tourai


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Air Conditioning in a Santorin

Ric Gottschalk <ric@...>
 

Be sure to add a fan in the engine room too. 
Bali Hai SN24

Ric Gottschalk
Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc
Office 410-923-5800
Fax 410-923-5802

On Nov 22, 2016, at 9:49 AM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Jim, 

As you look at fans, include Caframo. We have 4 and they are excellent - quiet, 2 speed, movable or fixed. Also, we went 4 years on our Santorin without air, never a problem in trade winds. Then installed A/C for coastal US - a must have. Ours is an18K compressor in engine room and split 12K condensor/fan for main cabin and 6K for aft cabin. 
We then didn't use for years in the Med. Now using again back in US.  As they say, if you want good sailing (and cool breezes), stay away from continents.
Cheers,
Craig  SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Perfect - Herbert.

I am Thinking the Fans might be the answer - but I am definitely "googling" the Seawater units now.
And thank you.
Jim


Re: Air Conditioning in a Santorin

Craig Briggs
 

Jim, 
As you look at fans, include Caframo. We have 4 and they are excellent - quiet, 2 speed, movable or fixed. Also, we went 4 years on our Santorin without air, never a problem in trade winds. Then installed A/C for coastal US - a must have. Ours is an18K compressor in engine room and split 12K condensor/fan for main cabin and 6K for aft cabin. 
We then didn't use for years in the Med. Now using again back in US.  As they say, if you want good sailing (and cool breezes), stay away from continents.
Cheers,
Craig  SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <jandrkennedy@...> wrote :

Perfect - Herbert.

I am Thinking the Fans might be the answer - but I am definitely "googling" the Seawater units now.
And thank you.
Jim


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Minor flood

karkauai
 

I once had the watermaker running on a passage in a 7-10 ft sea.  We were on a starbord tack heeled 12-15degrees.  When I went off my watch I told the next guy to watch the gauge and turn the Watermaker off after another hour.  He forgot, didn't tell the next 3 hour watch, and the next watch, so there was about 500L of fresh water in the bilge when I woke up!  I'm sure I had the cleanest bilge in the Atlantic.

The water collects along stringers and cross braces, and you can't get access to all the nooks and crannies beneath the cabin sole.  You will continue to find a small amount of fresh water under the galley sink, and in the storage lockers under the table after the next few times you sail and are heeled over.

Kent Robertson
Kristy
SM 243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Salt water manifold leaking

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

Bill 
I will inspect closely.  If it looks dangerous I will close valve and isolate the manifold

Steve,
I sent an email to Kilkea II.  Looking forward to his reply 

Ben Driver
La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Nov 22, 2016, at 3:12 AM, Stephen Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Ben,

When we were at Le Marin last spring, we met a fellow with an SM2000 who had a new stainless manifold fabricated by someone there. If I remember correctly, he paid in the 300 euro range for the guy to remove the old part, fabricate the new one, and re-install. 

The boat owners were Dave and Marian Paul off of Kilkea II. Email is kilkea_2 at yahoo dot ca. 

I'd be interested in having a new manifold fabricated as well, and I'm guessing Rascal might be as too. See you guys when you arrive at Le Marin. 

Steve Davis
Aloha SM72
Bequia, SVG

On Nov 21, 2016, at 21:54, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Ben,


Be careful…  that leak might be evidence of significant weakening of the part.  It would not make for a good day if you were offshore and a branch of the manifold broke off.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."


Re: Minor flood

Ian Park
 

Graham. Yes, when we first got the boat I overfilled the tanks. The water maker fed in through the inspection panel below the sink, and as this wasn't a sealed connection I think the overflow came through here. It washed out the hull vey well, but took a lot of sponging out! I fitted a cheap, small bilge pump in here with a plastic pipe outlet which uncoils up to the sink. I switch it occasionally (once every 3 months) and get a little dirty water out. This I believe is from the condensation outflow from the Waeco fridge which I have deliberately drained into the bilge area.
Your recent bilge wash I am sure is due to rough seas and the overfilled tanks.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Salt water manifold leaking

Stephen Davis
 

Hi Ben,

When we were at Le Marin last spring, we met a fellow with an SM2000 who had a new stainless manifold fabricated by someone there. If I remember correctly, he paid in the 300 euro range for the guy to remove the old part, fabricate the new one, and re-install. 

The boat owners were Dave and Marian Paul off of Kilkea II. Email is kilkea_2 at yahoo dot ca. 

I'd be interested in having a new manifold fabricated as well, and I'm guessing Rascal might be as too. See you guys when you arrive at Le Marin. 

Steve Davis
Aloha SM72
Bequia, SVG

On Nov 21, 2016, at 21:54, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Ben,


Be careful…  that leak might be evidence of significant weakening of the part.  It would not make for a good day if you were offshore and a branch of the manifold broke off.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."


Fw: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Jack Screw on 54

Barry Connor
 

Hi again Bob,
This is the link with part number and description for the switch with RS. I think that they ship Worldwide.

2238681MOM PUSHBUTTON SWITCH - BLUE 1NO+1NC
Your part numbers 
Cost Centre :

Regards
Barry and Penelope
"Lady Penelope II'
Amel 54  #17
Marina di Ragusa Sicily


On Tuesday, November 22, 2016 1:24 AM, Barry Connor wrote:


Hi Bob,
You can get the limit switches from Amel, or online with  RS in the UK. I just replaced mine, got them from Sonja at Amel Hyeres.
My problem was actually not just the switches, the connections from these switches were corroded by the salt humidity in the locker.
Hope this is a help. Let me know if you need something else.
Regards

Barry and Penelope
"Lady Penelope II'
Amel 54  #17
Marina di Ragusa Sicily


On Monday, November 21, 2016 3:12 PM, "hodginsbob@... [amelyachtowners]"


 
I need some help with the wiring circuit for the jack screw that drives the bow thruster up and down. I understand that the set up of the thruster on the 54 is very different that all previous models? I can hot wire 24 VDC to the jack screw motor and make it move up and down. The challenge is in the circuit that is supposed to control the motion and the lights and buzzers at the helm. The circuit has 2 limit switches and 4 relays forward, and the switches and lights at the helm. On Gallivant, I am not the original owner, and there appears to of been multiple attempts by semi knowledgable mechanics (one of them me) at fixing it, so at this point I don't know how it was built originally. The wiring diagram supplied in the Amel manual is not detailed. It does not show indicate when a relay is activated if it opens or closes a circuit, and there are no wire colors marked. Has anyone sorted this out and is there a good schematic? Does anyone know the specifics on the relay that I can buy a complete set? How about a source for those tiny fragile limit switches?
Bob Hodgins
Gallivant
Amle 54 #31
currently in St. Thomas USVI






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Jack Screw on 54

Barry Connor
 

Hi Bob,
You can get the limit switches from Amel, or online with  RS in the UK. I just replaced mine, got them from Sonja at Amel Hyeres.
My problem was actually not just the switches, the connections from these switches were corroded by the salt humidity in the locker.
Hope this is a help. Let me know if you need something else.
Regards

Barry and Penelope
"Lady Penelope II'
Amel 54  #17
Marina di Ragusa Sicily


On Monday, November 21, 2016 3:12 PM, "hodginsbob@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
I need some help with the wiring circuit for the jack screw that drives the bow thruster up and down. I understand that the set up of the thruster on the 54 is very different that all previous models? I can hot wire 24 VDC to the jack screw motor and make it move up and down. The challenge is in the circuit that is supposed to control the motion and the lights and buzzers at the helm. The circuit has 2 limit switches and 4 relays forward, and the switches and lights at the helm. On Gallivant, I am not the original owner, and there appears to of been multiple attempts by semi knowledgable mechanics (one of them me) at fixing it, so at this point I don't know how it was built originally. The wiring diagram supplied in the Amel manual is not detailed. It does not show indicate when a relay is activated if it opens or closes a circuit, and there are no wire colors marked. Has anyone sorted this out and is there a good schematic? Does anyone know the specifics on the relay that I can buy a complete set? How about a source for those tiny fragile limit switches?
Bob Hodgins
Gallivant
Amle 54 #31
currently in St. Thomas USVI




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Minor flood

James Alton
 

Bill,

   I think that you are making a very important point.   If the tank were accidentally pressurized to only 10 PSI  (City water pressure I believe is usually around 40, so this would actually be easy to do) and we assume that the tank top is roughly 24 square feet in area, the force acting to “blow the lid” would be more than the designed weight of the boat…  A warning label at the tank fill might not be a bad idea??

    I have noticed on our boat that the tank fill pipe ID is pretty close to the OD of a normal water hose male end so it would not be hard to have it jam in the hole and that could be bad.  I was thinking of always using a short section of hose screwed on to the male hose end so that only the smaller hose would be in the fill pipe which would prevent pressurization of the tank.   

   The air vent will not give you much protection once the vent line was also filled with water when the tank is overfilled,  especially if the fill rate is rapid.  I  doubt that the access plate seals would go before the bond between the tank top and the hull.  Perhaps there is a built in relief valve somewhere in the system but I have not seen it anywhere on my tanks or in the plumbing so as you point out, careful filling procedures might be the only protection.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
Arbatax,  Italy

   

   

On Nov 21, 2016, at 5:59 PM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Another thought on water tanks that people with lots of years on boats will know through their own, or someone else’s, painful experience:  When filling a water tank do NOT jam the water hose down the fill pipe and turn it on at a high flow rate.  


It is possible for water to go into the tank faster than air can vent.  It takes very little over-pressure before access hatches and such blow their seals. They are not designed as pressure vessels!  The resulting leak can be either catastrophic, or subtle and hard to find. In the case of boats built without integral tanks, failure of an entire tank seam can occur.  

Do not try to fill any tank faster than the liquid can go down the fill pipe by gravity. Patience is a virtue!

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Salt water manifold leaking

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Ben,

Be careful…  that leak might be evidence of significant weakening of the part.  It would not make for a good day if you were offshore and a branch of the manifold broke off.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."


Salt water manifold leaking

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

Recently there were several forum comments  on salt water manifolds.  Specifically, concerns about failures on older boats.  Today mine failed - actually just sprung a leak.   As I will be at Amel Caribes in December I will source new manifold there.  Has anyone had experience sourcing  this item from Amel?  Specifically in Martinique? 


Ben Driver 

La Bella Vita 

Sam 347


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] My first bow thruster service...

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Thanks Kent.  

A very helpful data point! 

Harmoinie's previous owner used RTV in some places.  And there was a still a touch of water in the oil, but nothing scary.  On the other hand, the o-ring on the hub was significantly flattened and dried out. I have a day before my new o-rings arrive and I have to decide what to do.

I am sure it’s not a critical decision either way, just hoping for input on what people have found to be “best practice”.

Bill

On Nov 21, 2016, at 18:12, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hey Bill.  My BT always leaked a little several months after replacing the seals.  My oil always had water in it when I did my maintenance change with every bottom paint job.  Since using RTV, Ib had no water come into the boat or in the oil.  I'm careful about how I apply it, and even if the seals looked good, I would change them anyway.

Kent
 Kristy
SM243



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] My first bow thruster service...

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

"slathered?"

I have not read that.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Nov 21, 2016 4:54 PM, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

First thruster service and everything is going fine--much better than the "typical" boat project! Thanks to a great design, and great maintenance from the previous owner.   But I have a few detailed questions for the experienced Amel folks.


First, the lip seal on the retracting shaft.  It is a standard Type 35, rubber coated 60x80, single lip seal.  EXCEPT: the new seal I received from AMEL, and the old one that was previously installed, have had the lip spring removed.  I can see it was removed from the new, unused part because the impression of the spring is still on the inside of the rubber lip.  I am working on the assumption that this is by design and for some reason in this application the spring is not desirable. Correct?


Second, the use of RTV on all the joints.  I am used to o-rings and lip seals being more than good enough by themselves--when installed properly.  When covered in RTV, o-rings become essentially single use because cleaning upon disassembly becomes impossible.  Once the RTV hardens, it prevents an o-ring from adjusting itself to small movements of the parts. It is also just messy and hard to keep away from places it shouldn't be. On the lip seals, the rubber coating is designed to "stick" to the wall of the chamber it sits in, and coating it in RTV actually makes it less secure.


The posted procedure in the forum basically has every possible joint (including several that are not actually sealing surfaces...) being slathered in RTV during assembly.  My 20 year old instructions on bow thruster repair from AMEL do not mention this.  Have people found this to be an important addition to the sealing of the thruster assembly?  Or do some people do it because "it can't hurt"?


If it is important, I'll do it.  But left to my own devices I'd skip it and let the seal s work as they were designed.


Bill Kinney

SM #160, Harmonie

On the hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL

"Ships and men rot in port."

fetchinketch



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] My first bow thruster service...

karkauai
 

Hey Bill.  My BT always leaked a little several months after replacing the seals.  My oil always had water in it when I did my maintenance change with every bottom paint job.  Since using RTV, Ib had no water come into the boat or in the oil.  I'm careful about how I apply it, and even if the seals looked good, I would change them anyway.

Kent
 Kristy
SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Minor flood

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Another thought on water tanks that people with lots of years on boats will know through their own, or someone else’s, painful experience:  When filling a water tank do NOT jam the water hose down the fill pipe and turn it on at a high flow rate.  

It is possible for water to go into the tank faster than air can vent.  It takes very little over-pressure before access hatches and such blow their seals. They are not designed as pressure vessels!  The resulting leak can be either catastrophic, or subtle and hard to find. In the case of boats built without integral tanks, failure of an entire tank seam can occur.  

Do not try to fill any tank faster than the liquid can go down the fill pipe by gravity. Patience is a virtue!

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."




My first bow thruster service...

greatketch@...
 

First thruster service and everything is going fine--much better than the "typical" boat project! Thanks to a great design, and great maintenance from the previous owner.   But I have a few detailed questions for the experienced Amel folks.


First, the lip seal on the retracting shaft.  It is a standard Type 35, rubber coated 60x80, single lip seal.  EXCEPT: the new seal I received from AMEL, and the old one that was previously installed, have had the lip spring removed.  I can see it was removed from the new, unused part because the impression of the spring is still on the inside of the rubber lip.  I am working on the assumption that this is by design and for some reason in this application the spring is not desirable. Correct?


Second, the use of RTV on all the joints.  I am used to o-rings and lip seals being more than good enough by themselves--when installed properly.  When covered in RTV, o-rings become essentially single use because cleaning upon disassembly becomes impossible.  Once the RTV hardens, it prevents an o-ring from adjusting itself to small movements of the parts. It is also just messy and hard to keep away from places it shouldn't be. On the lip seals, the rubber coating is designed to "stick" to the wall of the chamber it sits in, and coating it in RTV actually makes it less secure.


The posted procedure in the forum basically has every possible joint (including several that are not actually sealing surfaces...) being slathered in RTV during assembly.  My 20 year old instructions on bow thruster repair from AMEL do not mention this.  Have people found this to be an important addition to the sealing of the thruster assembly?  Or do some people do it because "it can't hurt"?


If it is important, I'll do it.  But left to my own devices I'd skip it and let the seals work as they were designed.


Bill Kinney

SM #160, Harmonie

On the hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL

"Ships and men rot in port."

fetchinketch



Bow Thruster Jack Screw on 54

hodginsbob@...
 

I need some help with the wiring circuit for the jack screw that drives the bow thruster up and down. I understand that the set up of the thruster on the 54 is very different that all previous models? I can hot wire 24 VDC to the jack screw motor and make it move up and down. The challenge is in the circuit that is supposed to control the motion and the lights and buzzers at the helm. The circuit has 2 limit switches and 4 relays forward, and the switches and lights at the helm. On Gallivant, I am not the original owner, and there appears to of been multiple attempts by semi knowledgable mechanics (one of them me) at fixing it, so at this point I don't know how it was built originally. The wiring diagram supplied in the Amel manual is not detailed. It does not show indicate when a relay is activated if it opens or closes a circuit, and there are no wire colors marked. Has anyone sorted this out and is there a good schematic? Does anyone know the specifics on the relay that I can buy a complete set? How about a source for those tiny fragile limit switches?
Bob Hodgins
Gallivant
Amle 54 #31
currently in St. Thomas USVI



Battery monitor DCC4000

enio rossi
 

Good evening (?) everyone. I need to add a fourth battery to the service group. The DCC400 is now rated at 300A. To set the CAP parameter to 400 is enough?  Or  other changes are needed?
Thanks for your reply.

Enio Rossi
#SN122 EARENDIL
Italy



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Saints anchorage

Patrick McAneny
 

Ben , We love Les Saintes , probably our favorite place in the Caribbean . The town is safe and an interesting place to hike about , plenty of places to eat. Years ago there was plenty of places to  anchor , now they have placed mooring everywhere , can't remember ,but prices weren't bad. You need to arrive by  early afternoon on weekends to get a mooring . New Years Eve is a blast ! If you leave the town astern and go around the first point to port you will see boats anchored there , with snorkeling all around there , consult a dive book for locations.
Wish we were there,
Pat SM #123


-----Original Message-----
From: joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Mon, Nov 21, 2016 11:48 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Saints anchorage

 
 In February we are sailing the saints south of Guadalupe.  Can anyone recommend some good spots for anchoring and snorkeling?  Also some interesting shoreside visits? 

Ben And Gayle
La Bella Vita 
SM 347