Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Don't pole out the Genaker?

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Thomas,

Remember the load on a ballooner is spread over the entire length of the foil/forestay and sheet blocks, while the load on a gennaker or spinnaker is on the top of the mast and the sheet blocks. I believe that is a big difference, and may be the reason for Amel's caution.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970





On Mon, Aug 28, 2017 at 7:40 AM, SV Garulfo svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


Hi Bill,

Hope everything is ok for you and family and friends in Gaveston and Texas. 

I will make my decision based on the input I get from the great contributors of this forum. And I will never consider them as liable for anything. 

As per Amel themselves, I'm happy they would apply caution in their statements. I just don't understand why they would, unprompted, mention that with respect to a Genaker/Cruising Code Zero (ie the type of sail Peter and I have been describing) when it's clearly ok with a ballooner. And I'd like the group to opine on why that may be as well as provide real life experience to help me improve my knowledge in that area.
I accept that that my original question may have implied a request to pass judgment of Amel's advice. That was not intentional. 


Thomas
Garulfo
Amel 54 #122
Hyeres, France


On Sun, 27 Aug 2017 at 17:47, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Thomas,

I think that we all have to understand how Amel will answer general and non-specific questions like, "...is it OK to fly a code zero on a pole." I know what my answer would be because if I said yes, I would foolishly accept serious liability with zero reward. 

I believe that it is a decision that you'll need to make. I would urge you to ask the question to owners so that you get information to make your decision and recognize that non-Amel specified sails can be very different in terms of size, cut, and construction. And that wind angle and speed, along with other concurrent set sails play an important part of your decision. 

I am sure that you realize that there are zero answers to your original question. 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   


On Aug 27, 2017 9:52 AM, "SV Garulfo svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Thanks Peter

It may well be the same sail that I've been calling a Genaker with a built-in furler (and a luff line). We did tear it too last week. 

You didn't mention the wind angle, but presumably it's pretty dead downwind to have the genoa poled out to winward. Didn't you feel a need to also pole out the Code zero? I understand you said you have only one pole, but did you wish you had two? 

We do have two poles, and I'm still confused about whether it's ok to use on the Genaker/Cruising Code Zero (as the combination of gear sold by Amel for that boat suggests) or not (as the documentation reads). 

Best,

Thomas 

Garulfo 
Amel 54 #122
Back from Corsica
Hyeres, France


On Sat, 26 Aug 2017 at 10:32, Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Well both sails were on Carango when I bought her from Rudi Peroni. The Yankee is a slightly high cut genoa and in this rig set up we completely unfurl it to the pole. The code zero has its own luff line and a furler with an everlasting furling rope on a drum at the foot. It can only be fully deployed or fully rolled up. It is a great sail and after destroying it we are having a replacement made by Ullman sails inCape Town - they ship it to St Maarten where they have a small loft.

Peter


On 26 Aug 2017, at 07:25, SV Garulfo svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 


Thanks Peter for your answers 

For my understanding ,

1. Is your Yankee a specific sail or simply the genoa (ie foresail) furled in appropriately for the conditions? I presume the latter. 

2. Is your Code Zero the 100m^2 Genaker with 'built-in furling' (for my lack of a better word) Amel offered as an option on the 54, or a specific sail?

3. What wind angles would you keep that setup for?

Cheers 

Garulfo 
Amel 54 #122
Back from Corsica
Hyeres, France

On Fri, 25 Aug 2017 at 21:59, Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Garulfo,

We sailed from Cape Town to Salvador Brazil flying a poled out Yankee on the just windward side and the code Zero on the just downwind side ( a huge amount of sail) and Mizzen of course with preventer downwind side and our 54 sailed really fast and comfortably in up to 22kts true.

All went well until we were hit by a squall of 27 kits and the code Zero blew out but no other damage.

This is definitely a rig I will use again. We only have the one Amel 54 standard pole.

Peter Forbes
00447836 209730


On 25 Aug 2017, at 18:22, SV Garulfo svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi all,

I was going through the Amel documentation for the 54 optional items and, regarding the gennaker with built-in furler, it reads "Don't pole out this sail" and "Don't use the gennaker at the same time as the genoa". That's my translation of the french document 'Amel 54_Equipement_optionel_V1.4', section 7-3-7.  

What do you make of that advice? 

I was definitely planning to use the double pole setup with gennaker and genoa for downwind sailing. 

Thanks for any advice and experience,

Fair winds 

Thomas

Garulfo 
Amel 54 #122
Back from Corsica
Hyeres, France

--
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Corsica, France

--
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Corsica, France

--
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Corsica, France

--
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Corsica, France



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Impeller job on the Volvo D3-110

Porter McRoberts
 

Perfect. Got the photos. Thank you
Keys are: Do remove the hoses, don't remove pump, use short puller, and keep saltwater out of the alternator! 
Don't think I'd put the alternator under the impeller if I designed the engine!

Thank you very much!

With renewed confidence I return to the boat!

Porter


On Aug 28, 2017, at 3:42 AM, mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi again porter; I just posted an album of photos. My first time, so let me know that you've received them.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Impeller job on the Volvo D3-110

Porter McRoberts
 

Peter. 
I think you've hit the nail on he head!
Quite appreciated. 
Porter



On Aug 28, 2017, at 3:21 AM, Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Porter,


My puller looks quite different to yours. I can’t send a photo as my 54 is in Grenada at the moment - try for a shorter more squat puller - mine seems to work without removing those hoses.

Peter Forbes
Amel 54  #035
Grenada
On 27 Aug 2017, at 21:55, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


I think I'll need an angled needle nose plier. There is just very little working space!  Or even better and angled vise grip if something like that even exists!!  

Thank you again JP!!

Porter

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 27, 2017, at 4:52 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Porter,


Can you not get some needle nosed pliers in the impeller?  I admit the work area is better on the SM than the 54… one of the few advantages.

:-)

JPG



On 27 Aug 2017, at 21:32, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thank you JP
I have seen the diagram. The issue is on my engine the hoses are directly in the way as is then engine itself. Does one remove the whole pump?  Take down the serpentine belt?

I have removed the impeller plate and I can see the impeller. The problem is getting it out of the housing from my position I have no point of leverage or angle of attack!

I appreciate your help!!  

Porter

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 27, 2017, at 4:28 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello Porter,



STOP!!! do not remove the hoses.  See diagram, it is self explanatory… at least to me… 


Kind regards,


Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, SM 007




On 27 Aug 2017, at 21:20, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Happy Sunday to this awesome crew. 
Decided to change the impeller on our new D3 today. Engine has 170 or so hours and did the oil so why not go ahead and do the impeller. 

I've reached a stopping point. And to best explain the predicament I've posted a short video. If one of you knowledgeable folks on the D3s could lend a few neurons my way I'd be appreciative. 
Many many thanks



Porter

S/V IBIS. 54-152 
Fort Lauderdale. 



Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 






Posted by: Porter McRoberts <portermcroberts@...> 
Reply via web postReply to sender Reply to group Start a New TopicMessages in this topic (3)

Have you tried the highest rated email app?
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Impeller job on the Volvo D3-110

Porter McRoberts
 

Very helpful. Thank you Mohammad. 
I am seeing a compact version of an impeller puller in the d3 manual that I don't have. I'm going to try and get that. Also an angled needle nose pliers. 

The key point you make is you did not have to remove the pump to get the impeller out. Correct?

Got a new D3-110 when the old one was smoking (only 1050hrs) prior to our purchase of the boat in April . The seller was an extremely gracious sailor. 

Thank you again.

Porter


On Aug 28, 2017, at 3:26 AM, 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello porter, 

We replaced ours this year. I had to remove one of the hoses from the engine block close to the engine oil dipstick. Then there is sufficient access to undo the cover on the impeller and remove it with needle nose pliers. I will try to post a picture for clarity.

Be very careful about the salt water pouring out of the pump. Make sure that not only do you vacuum the water from the sea water chest as you have done, but have plenty of rags over the alternator which is placed directly under the impeller. 

You have to really get personal with you d3-110 as you will find sometimes lying belly down on the top cover helps to have both hands available for the job. Being a contortionist also helps on some other jobs that you will run into in the future.

For us, it has been a reliable engine with about 1800 hours. I know others on this forum that have had a bear of a time.

Why did you install a new engine on such a young boat?

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax

On Aug 27, 2017, at 11:00 PM, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I think I'll need an angled needle nose plier. There is just very little working space!  Or even better and angled vise grip if something like that even exists!!  

Thank you again JP!!

Porter

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 27, 2017, at 4:52 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Porter,


Can you not get some needle nosed pliers in the impeller?  I admit the work area is better on the SM than the 54… one of the few advantages.

:-)

JPG



On 27 Aug 2017, at 21:32, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thank you JP
I have seen the diagram. The issue is on my engine the hoses are directly in the way as is then engine itself. Does one remove the whole pump?  Take down the serpentine belt?

I have removed the impeller plate and I can see the impeller. The problem is getting it out of the housing from my position I have no point of leverage or angle of attack!

I appreciate your help!!  

Porter

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 27, 2017, at 4:28 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello Porter,



STOP!!! do not remove the hoses.  See diagram, it is self explanatory… at least to me… 


Kind regards,


Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, SM 007




On 27 Aug 2017, at 21:20, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Happy Sunday to this awesome crew. 
Decided to change the impeller on our new D3 today. Engine has 170 or so hours and did the oil so why not go ahead and do the impeller. 

I've reached a stopping point. And to best explain the predicament I've posted a short video. If one of you knowledgeable folks on the D3s could lend a few neurons my way I'd be appreciative. 
Many many thanks



Porter

S/V IBIS. 54-152 
Fort Lauderdale. 



Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 






Posted by: Porter McRoberts <portermcroberts@...>
Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (3)

Have you tried the highest rated email app?
With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage.



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Don't pole out the Genaker?

Sv Garulfo
 


Hi Bill,

Hope everything is ok for you and family and friends in Gaveston and Texas. 

I will make my decision based on the input I get from the great contributors of this forum. And I will never consider them as liable for anything. 

As per Amel themselves, I'm happy they would apply caution in their statements. I just don't understand why they would, unprompted, mention that with respect to a Genaker/Cruising Code Zero (ie the type of sail Peter and I have been describing) when it's clearly ok with a ballooner. And I'd like the group to opine on why that may be as well as provide real life experience to help me improve my knowledge in that area.
I accept that that my original question may have implied a request to pass judgment of Amel's advice. That was not intentional. 


Thomas
Garulfo
Amel 54 #122
Hyeres, France


On Sun, 27 Aug 2017 at 17:47, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thomas,

I think that we all have to understand how Amel will answer general and non-specific questions like, "...is it OK to fly a code zero on a pole." I know what my answer would be because if I said yes, I would foolishly accept serious liability with zero reward. 

I believe that it is a decision that you'll need to make. I would urge you to ask the question to owners so that you get information to make your decision and recognize that non-Amel specified sails can be very different in terms of size, cut, and construction. And that wind angle and speed, along with other concurrent set sails play an important part of your decision. 

I am sure that you realize that there are zero answers to your original question. 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   


On Aug 27, 2017 9:52 AM, "SV Garulfo svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Peter

It may well be the same sail that I've been calling a Genaker with a built-in furler (and a luff line). We did tear it too last week. 

You didn't mention the wind angle, but presumably it's pretty dead downwind to have the genoa poled out to winward. Didn't you feel a need to also pole out the Code zero? I understand you said you have only one pole, but did you wish you had two? 

We do have two poles, and I'm still confused about whether it's ok to use on the Genaker/Cruising Code Zero (as the combination of gear sold by Amel for that boat suggests) or not (as the documentation reads). 

Best,

Thomas 

Garulfo 
Amel 54 #122
Back from Corsica
Hyeres, France


On Sat, 26 Aug 2017 at 10:32, Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Well both sails were on Carango when I bought her from Rudi Peroni. The Yankee is a slightly high cut genoa and in this rig set up we completely unfurl it to the pole. The code zero has its own luff line and a furler with an everlasting furling rope on a drum at the foot. It can only be fully deployed or fully rolled up. It is a great sail and after destroying it we are having a replacement made by Ullman sails inCape Town - they ship it to St Maarten where they have a small loft.

Peter


On 26 Aug 2017, at 07:25, SV Garulfo svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


Thanks Peter for your answers 

For my understanding ,

1. Is your Yankee a specific sail or simply the genoa (ie foresail) furled in appropriately for the conditions? I presume the latter. 

2. Is your Code Zero the 100m^2 Genaker with 'built-in furling' (for my lack of a better word) Amel offered as an option on the 54, or a specific sail?

3. What wind angles would you keep that setup for?

Cheers 

Garulfo 
Amel 54 #122
Back from Corsica
Hyeres, France

On Fri, 25 Aug 2017 at 21:59, Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Garulfo,

We sailed from Cape Town to Salvador Brazil flying a poled out Yankee on the just windward side and the code Zero on the just downwind side ( a huge amount of sail) and Mizzen of course with preventer downwind side and our 54 sailed really fast and comfortably in up to 22kts true.

All went well until we were hit by a squall of 27 kits and the code Zero blew out but no other damage.

This is definitely a rig I will use again. We only have the one Amel 54 standard pole.

Peter Forbes
00447836 209730


On 25 Aug 2017, at 18:22, SV Garulfo svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi all,

I was going through the Amel documentation for the 54 optional items and, regarding the gennaker with built-in furler, it reads "Don't pole out this sail" and "Don't use the gennaker at the same time as the genoa". That's my translation of the french document 'Amel 54_Equipement_optionel_V1.4', section 7-3-7.  

What do you make of that advice? 

I was definitely planning to use the double pole setup with gennaker and genoa for downwind sailing. 

Thanks for any advice and experience,

Fair winds 

Thomas

Garulfo 
Amel 54 #122
Back from Corsica
Hyeres, France

--
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Corsica, France

--
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Corsica, France

--
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Corsica, France

--
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Corsica, France


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New old maramu !

John Clark
 

Hi Miles,
   Congratulations and welcome.  The forum is a treasure trove of solid information that you will find invaluable.  

Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
Hunkering down for TS Irma in Pamlico River.



On Aug 26, 2017 11:25 AM, "smiles bernard smilesbernard@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello there

I've posted a few times already but this week we are now aboard our new (to us) 1985 maramu 46

She is not a SM but is super to us 😉.

Our last long distance cruising boat was 30ft Halmatic so we are amazed by the comforts, the build quality and details - if a little overwhelmed by her size too!

We are planning an Atlantic circuit next year with our two young boys of 7 and 4 yrs.

It's great to have an amel and this active and helpful forum seems like a place I'll be often!

All the very best

Miles
SV 'Sea love'




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bilge maitenance

James Alton
 

Kent and others,

   I have been following the discussion about whether to use bleach or not in the sump.  I have to agree with the corrosion concerns of using bleach.  I will use something like Comet to scrub the fiberglass surfaces in the engine area but then immediately rinse the surfaces and flush the bilge afterwards.  I think that if one is using bleach in a confined space such as the engine area that it would be wise to ventilate the compartment until the fumes have been removed.  The fumes are corrosive as well and  hard on any vented electronics.   

Best,
James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Caletta, Sardinia



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 8/28/17 03:25 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bilge maitenance

 

I have a small Ryobi pressure washer that does a great job of cleaning the walls of the sump.  

The only time I use bleach is when the aft head area starts to smell bad.  After putting a bung in the hoses where they drain into the sump, I put an ounce of bleach in a full sink, and run it down the hoses.  After a couple hours, I drain it into the sump and  empty the sump with the bilge pump, then run another sink full of fresh water down and drain it again.  That takes care of any odor.
After 9 years my copper strap looks like new.  When I bought Kristy (10 y old), the strap was corroded completely thru.  I'm betting the prior owner used bleach regularly.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Impeller job on the Volvo D3-110

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi again porter; I just posted an album of photos. My first time, so let me know that you've received them.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge maitenance

Peter Forbes
 

I consider it to be a privilege to be right about anything.

Peter
Forbes

On 28 Aug 2017, at 04:41, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

The only thing I know for certain is that I am not right about everything...


Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Boston, Mass



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Impeller job on the Volvo D3-110

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hello porter, 

We replaced ours this year. I had to remove one of the hoses from the engine block close to the engine oil dipstick. Then there is sufficient access to undo the cover on the impeller and remove it with needle nose pliers. I will try to post a picture for clarity.

Be very careful about the salt water pouring out of the pump. Make sure that not only do you vacuum the water from the sea water chest as you have done, but have plenty of rags over the alternator which is placed directly under the impeller. 

You have to really get personal with you d3-110 as you will find sometimes lying belly down on the top cover helps to have both hands available for the job. Being a contortionist also helps on some other jobs that you will run into in the future.

For us, it has been a reliable engine with about 1800 hours. I know others on this forum that have had a bear of a time.

Why did you install a new engine on such a young boat?

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax

On Aug 27, 2017, at 11:00 PM, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I think I'll need an angled needle nose plier. There is just very little working space!  Or even better and angled vise grip if something like that even exists!!  

Thank you again JP!!

Porter

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 27, 2017, at 4:52 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Porter,


Can you not get some needle nosed pliers in the impeller?  I admit the work area is better on the SM than the 54… one of the few advantages.

:-)

JPG



On 27 Aug 2017, at 21:32, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thank you JP
I have seen the diagram. The issue is on my engine the hoses are directly in the way as is then engine itself. Does one remove the whole pump?  Take down the serpentine belt?

I have removed the impeller plate and I can see the impeller. The problem is getting it out of the housing from my position I have no point of leverage or angle of attack!

I appreciate your help!!  

Porter

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 27, 2017, at 4:28 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello Porter,



STOP!!! do not remove the hoses.  See diagram, it is self explanatory… at least to me… 


Kind regards,


Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, SM 007




On 27 Aug 2017, at 21:20, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Happy Sunday to this awesome crew. 
Decided to change the impeller on our new D3 today. Engine has 170 or so hours and did the oil so why not go ahead and do the impeller. 

I've reached a stopping point. And to best explain the predicament I've posted a short video. If one of you knowledgeable folks on the D3s could lend a few neurons my way I'd be appreciative. 
Many many thanks



Porter

S/V IBIS. 54-152 
Fort Lauderdale. 



Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 






Posted by: Porter McRoberts <portermcroberts@...>
Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (3)

Have you tried the highest rated email app?
With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage.



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Impeller job on the Volvo D3-110

Peter Forbes
 

Porter,

My puller looks quite different to yours. I can’t send a photo as my 54 is in Grenada at the moment - try for a shorter more squat puller - mine seems to work without removing those hoses.

Peter Forbes
Amel 54  #035
Grenada

On 27 Aug 2017, at 21:55, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


I think I'll need an angled needle nose plier. There is just very little working space!  Or even better and angled vise grip if something like that even exists!!  

Thank you again JP!!

Porter

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 27, 2017, at 4:52 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Porter,


Can you not get some needle nosed pliers in the impeller?  I admit the work area is better on the SM than the 54… one of the few advantages.

:-)

JPG



On 27 Aug 2017, at 21:32, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thank you JP
I have seen the diagram. The issue is on my engine the hoses are directly in the way as is then engine itself. Does one remove the whole pump?  Take down the serpentine belt?

I have removed the impeller plate and I can see the impeller. The problem is getting it out of the housing from my position I have no point of leverage or angle of attack!

I appreciate your help!!  

Porter

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 27, 2017, at 4:28 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello Porter,



STOP!!! do not remove the hoses.  See diagram, it is self explanatory… at least to me… 


Kind regards,


Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, SM 007




On 27 Aug 2017, at 21:20, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Happy Sunday to this awesome crew. 
Decided to change the impeller on our new D3 today. Engine has 170 or so hours and did the oil so why not go ahead and do the impeller. 

I've reached a stopping point. And to best explain the predicament I've posted a short video. If one of you knowledgeable folks on the D3s could lend a few neurons my way I'd be appreciative. 
Many many thanks



Porter

S/V IBIS. 54-152 
Fort Lauderdale. 



Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 






Posted by: Porter McRoberts <portermcroberts@...> 
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bilge maitenance

greatketch@...
 

The only thing I know for certain is that I am not right about everything...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Boston, Mass


Re: Auto Prop Rebuild

eric freedman
 

Kimberlite was  not coming up to speed. even though I dove on the prop to make sure it was clean and the blades moved smoothly without any wiggle I decided to rebuild the prop. The increase in RPM was dramatic after the rebuild..

The prop is a finely tuned device with very tight tolerances and a slight amount of wear will be obvious in the loss of rpm even though everything seems fine no wiggle and play in the blades.


The instructions to re install the bearings etc come with the prop rebuild kit.

It is a lot easier to re assemble that dis assemble. A torque wrench comes in handy if you want to get the install perfect. It is quite easy. The only thing that needs attention is the bending down of the retaining tabs.

I don't know how to add a drawing to this note. The drawing is quite detailed. Just make sure to grease all the bearings before installing. The people in Newport were very helpful.

Fair Winds,

Eric'


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bilge maitenance

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Bill Kinney,

I am absolutely certain that you are correct, at least about some things.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Aug 27, 2017 at 8:25 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I have a small Ryobi pressure washer that does a great job of cleaning the walls of the sump.  

The only time I use bleach is when the aft head area starts to smell bad.  After putting a bung in the hoses where they drain into the sump, I put an ounce of bleach in a full sink, and run it down the hoses.  After a couple hours, I drain it into the sump and  empty the sump with the bilge pump, then run another sink full of fresh water down and drain it again.  That takes care of any odor.
After 9 years my copper strap looks like new.  When I bought Kristy (10 y old), the strap was corroded completely thru.  I'm betting the prior owner used bleach regularly.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy SM243



Re: Auto Prop Rebuild

eric freedman
 

Hi,

Here are the instructions for the autoprop. Takes a bot 3 hours due to the difficulty inremoving the split bearing from the blade.

Fair Winds

Eric

SM 376 Kimberlite

H6 Roller Bearing General Instructions


 


Your Autoprop is supplied assembled, tested, balanced and ready to fit to your yacht. 


Observing the following instructions will ensure a correct installation and trouble free service for a long time. Do not grease your propeller during installation.


 


Installation:


 


Before fitting your new Autoprop ensure that the cutlass bearing is not worn.  A worn cutlass bearing will not be suitable for any propeller.  If it is worn replace it with a good quality bearing assembly with a brass shell.


 


  1. After removing the old propeller check that the shaft taper, key and thread are undamaged.


 


  1. Try the new shaft nut (#11) on the thread.


 


  1. Check that the key will slide through the keyway in the propeller hub. Clean and dry the taper on the shaft.


 


  1. Without the key in the shaft push the Autoprop onto the shaft firmly.  Mark the shaft at the fwd end of the propeller hub.  Now remove the Autoprop and install the key into the shaft.


 


  1. Re-install the Autoprop making sure that the fwd end of the hub comes to the mark you have made on the shaft previously.  If it does continue with the installation.
  2. If not then you will remove the Autoprop and file the key until you can push the Autoprop onto the shaft to your mark.  This is now showing that the propeller hub is matching the shaft taper correctly.


 


  1. Tighten the shaft nut (#11) to the shaft with a socket spanner (0.875).


 


  1. Install and tighten the shaft nut locking screw (#10) into the shaft nut.  It may be necessary to dimple the nut if the locking screw does not match up with one of the flats on the shaft nut.


 


  1. Smear the shaft nut locking screw (#10) with Loctite or other thread locking compound and retighten into the hub against the shaft nut.


 


  1. Replace the zinc anode (#12) with the nylon screws.  Do not over tighten.


 


  1. The Autoprop is now ready to use.  There is no need to grease the propeller as it has been done at the factory prior to shipping to you.


 


 


 


Removal of your Autoprop:


 


Autoprop makes and sells an Autoprop specific propeller puller.  However most three legged prop pullers will work with the Autoprop.


 


  1. Remove the zinc anode from the aft end of the propeller.


 


  1. Undo the shaft nut locking bolt … at least until it is clear of the shaft nut.


 


  1. Unscrew the shaft nut from the shaft.


 


  1. Remove the propeller using either the three legged puller or the Autoprop puller. It is not correct to simply pound the fwd end of the hub with a hammer.


 


  1. If using the Autoprop puller, screw the plate onto the back of the propeller using the socket head metric screws provided into the holes for the zinc attachment.  Now thread in the large jacking bolt and tighten against the end of the shaft until the Autoprop comes loose from the taper.


 


  1. Tape the key to the shaft for safe keeping.  Keys are a part of the shafting and not a part of the propeller. 


 


 


Haulout Inspection and Cleaning:


 


  1. Whenever you haul the boat for bottom cleaning or other reasons … have the Autoprop pressure washed before it has a chance to dry out.


 


  1. This will remove any deposits, which, if left to dry will make the propeller feel sticky when rotated.


 


  1. After washing, rotate the blades by hand to ensure they are free moving.


 


  1. Next “rock” the blades back and forth to also check for free movement in this direction.


 


  1. If movement is felt at this time then refer to the Bearing Adjustment section as the tension on the bearings might well require attention.


 


  1. Prior to re-launching the boat power wash the propeller as this will remove any foreign particles which may have lodged in the race and bearing areas.  Boatyards can be dusty locations.


 


  1. Please refer to the Greasing your Autoprop section should you need to re-grease the bearings.


 


  1. It is recommended to re-grease your propeller if you plan to have the boat hauled out for a long period of time.


 


 


Greasing your Autoprop:


 


To re-grease your Autoprop it is not necessary remove the propeller or to remove the blades


Always use a good quality waterproof lithium grease.  In USA we recommend


CRC # SL3110 .. generally found at an auto parts store like NAPA.


 


  1. Locate the grease channel screws (#7).  There will be two per blade … one at the side of the blade and one in the centre. Note that there are “O” rings fitted to each screw.


 


  1. Remove the 5mm pan head screws … two of them per blade, using an allen key.


 


  1. Fit the grease nipple (TRI-0168 supplied with each propeller) into the grease channel (#7) and connect to the grease gun.


 


  1. Pump the grease into the blade until you have forced the older grease out of the other hole (#7).


 


  1. During the procedure rotate the blade back and forth so as to get new grease around the bearings.


 


  1. When new clean grease exits the second hole in the blade you are finished.


 


  1. Remove the grease nipple.  Clean any excess grease from the blades and replace both of the channel screws (#7) into each blade.


 


  1. Proceed with the other two blades and you will be complete.


 


 


Autoprop Maintenance:


 


Your new Autoprop is fitted with greasing channels and screws in each blade.  It is not necessary to remove blades to re-grease the propeller.  It cannot be done under water, but should be done during a routine haul out and bottom cleaning.


It is recommended to re-grease every year if possible but at least every two years.


 


The Autoprop needs good protection from electrolytic and chemical corrosion. Ensure that you replace the zinc anode (#12) each year.  For extra protection it is advisable to fit a shaft zinc or shaft bushes, as the Autoprop zinc will only protect the propeller.


 


Eventually the Autoprop bearings will need replacing.  This is a straight forward  procedure and is covered in the kit when ever a bearing replacement is requested.


To order a bearing kit simply contact your Autoprop dealer and have the serial number (#serial number) at hand.


 


 






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bilge maitenance

karkauai
 

I have a small Ryobi pressure washer that does a great job of cleaning the walls of the sump.  

The only time I use bleach is when the aft head area starts to smell bad.  After putting a bung in the hoses where they drain into the sump, I put an ounce of bleach in a full sink, and run it down the hoses.  After a couple hours, I drain it into the sump and  empty the sump with the bilge pump, then run another sink full of fresh water down and drain it again.  That takes care of any odor.
After 9 years my copper strap looks like new.  When I bought Kristy (10 y old), the strap was corroded completely thru.  I'm betting the prior owner used bleach regularly.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bilge maitenance

greatketch@...
 

Bill,

You wrote:
      I think you need the bleach to kill the bad stuff in there.

What bad stuff are you talking about? If you mean the bacteria and other microbes growing in there, two days after you sanitize it with bleach, it will once again be a thriving biological soup. No matter how much you limit your incoming materials, they will have all the food they need to grow, and grow rapidly.  Trying to keep the sump bacteriologically "clean" is a Sisyphean task. Not just impossible, but unnecessary.

Even if you do think sanitizing the sump is needed and a good idea, a standard "shock treatment" of chlorine to sanitize contaminated water and associated equipment is 50ppm of free chlorine.  (50ppm is about 4 ml--or a teaspoon--of standard bleach per gallon of water)  That's 25 times less chlorine than you recommend, and a level that would be safe for short term exposure to almost all materials.  This is my primary problem with your recommendation.  It is just too much chlorine--it is very corrosive for no added benefit. 

I would point out that copper pipes in sanitary drain service have a expected service life of at least 50 YEARS. In standard saltwater use, most copper alloys show corrosion rates of less than 0.02mm per year, close to unmeasurably low. Maybe the reason you see only 5 to 8 years of life on grounding straps is not in spite of the chlorine treatment, but because of it.

It's not a difficult project to keep the sump clean enough that it keeps working as it should. We can certainly agree it is not rocket science. 

Suck out as much gunk as possible with a shopvac, scrub with some detergent and a long hand brush. Suck out again. Clean the hoses.  Reassemble. Done. If it is REALLY hard to clean, you waited too long to do it.

You think soaking with a very strong bleach solution is useful.

Based on corrosion data and experience in the chemical industry, I think the good it does is dubious, and the harm is likely.

There is no reason we can't agree to disagree on this. 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Boston, Mass





---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote :

Alan, 

I stand by the use of bleach as I stated earlier which was a very diluted solution for a limited time and exposure only to the bilge and copper bonding strap. I think you need the bleach to kill the bad stuff in there. The only slight risk issue is the copper bonding strap which you will likely need to replace every 5-8 y,ears, anyway. So, maybe my suggestion will cause you to replace that copper X months earlier. 

Almost every decision that you will make requires weighing and mitigating risks. For instance, if you don't run your engine, or set your sails, they may never need replacing. Or, if you don't run your engine and keep your sails flogging, you'll hurt your sails and lower engine hours.   

Does this make sense?  


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

  


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Auto Prop Rebuild

eric freedman
 

In Video 2 I believe he is trying to remove the end cap by TIGHTENING IT video 3 he removes the cap by turning it in the correct direction.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 6:25 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Auto Prop Rebuild

 

 

(I took the liberty of changing the subject line)

 

 

Also, they have a great series of on-line videos that show how to do this:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6V90OoOJh4

 

Although, I haven’t found the one yet that shows how to put it all back together.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Grenada

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 4:04 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rpm

 

 

Paul.,

Replacing the bearings on the Autoprop is easy but time consuming.

However you are a short drive from AB marine in Newport. They are the Autoprop dealers and are very helpful. I am sure they could rebuild your prop in a few days. Otherwise they can sell you the parts and rent you the tools.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 11:17 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rpm

 

 

Ken

 

When you service the propeller, exactly what is done? Is it new bearings? Can one fix that one self or do I need to send it away? We have clean bottom and newly Velox on the propeller, and Greased the propeller but it  only reach 2600 rev on our TMD 22. Before we reached 2800, I thought it might be the turbo being slow and need cleaning again, or the injectors. We hade the turbo serviced 1000 h ago, do not know how often one should service it, we try to now and then runthe engine hard for 20 to 30 minutes to clean out some carbon dust.

Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259 currently in Bristol RI


Re: New old maramu !

smallworldsailor@...
 

Welcome to the Forum! We're just completing a galley counter top expansion/conversion that you (and other Maramu owners) may be interested in and I will post some photos of it as soon as the varnish dries!
Don't feel inferior because you chose a Maramu. we sold our Super Maramu so that we could find a really nice Maramu as we prefer this design for our kind of sailing. It's a great cruising vessel!
You have a terrific boat and congratulations on joining this special group of sailors.
Todd Duff
Ocean LIfe, Maramu #263
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rpm

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, Easy mistake, and since I disconnected my prop driven alternator , I wish I had an Auto prop. I hope you guys are surviving Harvey , you are getting a ton of rain .
Good Luck'
Pat SM #123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sun, Aug 27, 2017 1:35 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rpm

 
Pat,

Sorry, my assumption was that you had an AutoProp. Please disregard my earlier posting. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Aug 27, 2017 10:53 AM, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
Pat,

I believe that you need to eliminate any sort of propeller fouling before doing anything else because it is the most common issue followed with the AutoProp needing a bearing kit. Next will be turbo and fuel system. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Aug 27, 2017 10:17 AM, "osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Ken

When you service the propeller, exactly what is done? Is it new bearings? Can one fix that one self or do I need to send it away? We have clean bottom and newly Velox on the propeller, and Greased the propeller but it  only reach 2600 rev on our TMD 22. Before we reached 2800, I thought it might be the turbo being slow and need cleaning again, or the injectors. We hade the turbo serviced 1000 h ago, do not know how often one should service it, we try to now and then runthe engine hard for 20 to 30 minutes to clean out some carbon dust.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259 currently in Bristol RI