Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Burned Out Headsail Furling Motor

greatketch@...
 

I have never been to a yard where they routinely put sailboats into a travellift bow first.  That is done stern first for a lot of reasons, but one of them is that putting the needed slack into backstays is (almost) always much easier than headstays.

Bill Kinney
SM#160,  Harmonie
Highlands, NJ.


Re: The 54 washer problem.

galacsea2000 <no_reply@...>
 

Does anyone know how to remove the clothe washer in the 54?


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Burned Out Headsail Furling Motor

eric freedman
 

I would check with another motor rebuilder—that number seems very high, unless he is changing some gears.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 10:19 AM
To: Amel Owners
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Burned Out Headsail Furling Motor

 

 

Hi Amels Owners,

 

I have run into a bit of an issue with my headsail furling motor. At my local marina, the headstay needs to come off to accommodate the travel lift. After doing this several times the wiring to the headsail furling motor pushed the wire leads together causing the headsail motor to burn. I have the motor off and the Bosch 0136350008 is no longer available. Pasco wants to charge $1500 to rebuild it, which isn't an option because I would like a spare. 

 

Does anybody know where to buy a new replacement motor that would fit? I have tried calling Bamar dealers and DC motor providers to no avail.

 

Thank you in advance,

Jay Wagamon

S/V Hobo Tiempo, Mango #60


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: adapter / connection shore power us

eric freedman
 

Gary,

To clarify what Alexandre meant.

Here in the USA many pedestals have 2 30 amp sockets. Each is on a separate circuit.

For example one 30 amp plug might be connected to the black , white and ground, the other might be connected to the red, white and ground. Thus between the 2 you get 220 volts.

If the pedestal is wired with both sockets wired to the same wires you will get 110 volts out of each one and combined you will also get 110 volts when hooked together with a “Y” .

 

I have added a voltmeter, frequency, and amp meter to Kimberlite before the boats Ac panel. I also have a circuit breaker before the main panel. Once in Bermuda, I plugged in and the volt meter was showing 440 volts. Last July due to a defective socket when I returned from a trip my volt meter was reading 110 volts.

 

 

If you want a photo of my setup please send me your email.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 10:04 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: adapter / connection shore power us

 

 

Good morning Gary,

Before I went to Tortola, I asked using that specific part to Marinco and was advised not to use this because of the Phase.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Island Water World Marina, Sint Maarten, NA

--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 6/9/17, Gary Wells gary@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: adapter / connection shore power us
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Friday, June 9, 2017, 11:52 PM


 









If the marina only has 30A 110v connectors you can
combine two of them using a"Y" connector that then
provides 220v.

The marinas I have stayed at that only have 30a at the post
generally can provide these "Y" combiner adapters,
as 220v 50a is a pretty common U.S. need.



Here's one:

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/marinco--reverse-y-adapter-2-30a-male-to-1-50a-female--10072957?recordNum=38



Gary W.

S/V Adagio​

Patmos



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Burned Out Headsail Furling Motor

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Jay,

Good luck with the motor...I am sure that you can get it repaired. Are you sure that it is the motor and not the cable?

Also, with very few exceptions, I believe and I teach that when entering a berth, travel lift area, dock, fuel dock, etc. the safest method is in reverse in a Maramu (with a bow thruster), Satorin, Super Maramu, 54, 55, and 64.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970





Re: Burned Out Headsail Furling Motor

Craig Briggs
 

Try backing into the Travel Lift :-)

Craig, SN68 Sangaris


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Burned Out Headsail Furling Motor

Mark Erdos
 

Jay,

 

Sorry, I can’t help on an electric motor source but electric motors can normally be repaired by local companies. We had a main sail furling motor rebuilt by a local Florida repair shop and have it as a spare. Shops are all over the USA.

 

In the future, rather than disconnect the headstay, back into the lift and disconnect the backstays. This is much easier.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising – Puerto Rico

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 10:19 AM
To: Amel Owners
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Burned Out Headsail Furling Motor

 

 

Hi Amels Owners,

 

I have run into a bit of an issue with my headsail furling motor. At my local marina, the headstay needs to come off to accommodate the travel lift. After doing this several times the wiring to the headsail furling motor pushed the wire leads together causing the headsail motor to burn. I have the motor off and the Bosch 0136350008 is no longer available. Pasco wants to charge $1500 to rebuild it, which isn't an option because I would like a spare. 

 

Does anybody know where to buy a new replacement motor that would fit? I have tried calling Bamar dealers and DC motor providers to no avail.

 

Thank you in advance,

Jay Wagamon

S/V Hobo Tiempo, Mango #60


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fresh Water Pressure

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Paul,

That 66b pump is a very good pump, lasting up to 10-12 years before needing a rebuild kit (from only Amel). The pump is no longer made, but when it was available, it cost about 500-600 euro.

In order of probability your problem is most likely:
  1. Accumulator Tank:. Check it by turning OFF the breaker, opening the Tap to relieve pressure, and using a bicycle pressure gauge check the internal pressure at the tire-like valve on the tank...it is usually covered with a plastic cap. The internal pressure should = 15% less than the cut-off pressure of the pump. If the pressure is zero, or low, use a bicycle pump to increase...do not over pump...wait 1 hour before turning on the breaker and check the pressure...if it is the same, the accumulator tank is OK, if not, order one from Amel.
  2. One Way Valve: Remove it (see photo or drawing) and inspect it to ensure it is working correctly. before you remove it, mark its orientation because if you install it reversed, it will never work.
  3. The Square D pressure switch which is difficult to adjust without experience. Google it for more info.
  4. Some other issue
When was that pump last rebuilt?

You probably need someone to train you on Amel systems. Is the original owner available? Did you buy your Amel from Joel Potter?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: adapter / connection shore power us

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Bill,

Just to add to the topic, here is the reply from: Shad Doughty
Technical Service Representative 800.307.6702 direct
technical@marinco.com 
    tsusa.marine@mastervolt.com
“You could try a reverse Y but I would suggest talking to the marina to see if they have split phase power”

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 6/12/17, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@svbebe.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: adapter / connection shore power us
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Monday, June 12, 2017, 9:33 AM


 









Gary and Alex,
This really gets confusing. You
are both right, sort-of.
But, when marinas have 220VAC 60htz
50 amp connections available, you should use it to avoid
potential mistakes...and you should be 100% sure of how to
connect.
When Alex was
advised about "Phase" I am 99% sure that what they
were telling him is that each 110-115VAC in the US (30 amp
connector) is actually 1 of the 2 legs of the 220VAC 60htz
available from the US type single phase power
mains. 
You need to
"Y" 2 different legs of the US type 220VAC
60htz to provide 220VAC 60htz power, If the each of the 2 US
type 30 amp sides of the Y adapter were connected to the
same leg of the 220VAC 60htz main, you will NOT have 220VAC
60htz.

To explain it in color: The US type
220VAC 60htz is color coded this way:Red
= 110-115VAC 60htzBlack = 110-115VAC
60htzWhite = NeutralBare copper =
EarthWhen the "Y" adapter is used
to connect to US type 30 amp connections, each 30 amp
connector of the Y has to connect this
way:1st side of the
Y:RedWhiteBare
Copper2nd side of the
YBlackWhiteBare
CopperOf course this gets further confusing
because if you were to open the box for the US 30 amp type
connector you would find only Black, White and Bare copper.
You find this because when using only one leg of 220VAC, the
color code used should be Black, White and Bare
Copper.
From my
rudimentary explanation you should either get it, or
understand that you need to be very very careful and if yo
don't get it, hire a qualified
electrician.
Best,
CW
Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX
77550
+1(832)
380-4970














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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fresh Water Pressure [1 Attachment]

paul schofield <pwschofield@...>
 

Thank you Alan and Bill for your quick responses.  Batteries were new last Summer and are currently on the charger. 

 

Bill, I agree with you that I most likely have the 66B as your attachment matches my paperwork on board.  Also, the pump appears to match the drawings.  I cannot locate on the pump itself the part number. 

 

Assuming pump is the same, any way to troubleshoot either accumulator tank or one-way valve?  

 

Thanks again.

 

Paul

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 10:10 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fresh Water Pressure [1 Attachment]

 

 

[Attachment(s) from Bill & Judy Rouse included below]

Paul,

 

It depends on what pump you have installed. 

 

Your Amel most likely came with a A.M.F.A. (Reya) #66B fresh water pump and attached stainless steel accumulator tank. If you have the original equipment your Pressure answer is about 1.75 to 2 bar. Also pump cycle time depends on whether you have the OEM accumulator tank and whether it is working and whether the Square D pressure switch is adjusted correctly...this is difficult to get right the first time that you attempt to adjust. Another cause of extended run times is leakage past the one-way valve.

 

I have attached a page from my Amel School Book which shows the OEM pump and a blow-up of the one-way valve. Is this the pump? If you do not have the OEM pump, check with the pump manufacturer.

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School 
www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 6:57 AM, pwschofield@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello to all.  Can you please tell me at what pressure the fresh water pressure cut-off switch should stop the pump.  The boat is new to us and I'm just starting to get familiar with the systems.  We arrived aboard after 4 months away and the water pump seems to be running a long time, compared to what I remember, bringing the system up to pressure.  We are getting pressure at the faucets even after the pump is turned off so I assume pump and expansion tanks are not an issue.  The system seems to be holding pressure as I continue to get water pressure at the faucets hours after the pump has been run.  One of the concerns I have is that the gauge at the accumulator does not appear to move while the pump is running.  Seems like it doesn't get higher than 20 psi.   Glass is broken on the gauge, so yes, a new gauge is in order.  Another gauge in the system just above the fresh water pump next to, what appears to be an inline regulator, shows 1.6-1.8 bar.

 

Just concerned at running the pump too long for either fear of burning it out or over pressurizing the system and causing damage. 

 

Thank you for your help

 

Paul

SV Trillium

SM 215

Brunswick, GA

 

 

 


Re: fresh water pressure

Gary Wells
 

One thing that caused my pump to run for lengthy periods was simply a kink in the intake hose.
When the pump came one, the suction would squeeze it down enough to restrict the flow causing longer run times.
New hoses and verifying the pickup wasn't partially blocked solved it.

Gary W
S/V Adagio, SM209
Patmos


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fresh Water Pressure [1 Attachment]

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I attached the wrong page...here it is.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970




On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 9:10 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
[Attachment(s) from Bill & Judy Rouse included below]

Paul,

It depends on what pump you have installed. 

Your Amel most likely came with a A.M.F.A. (Reya) #66B fresh water pump and attached stainless steel accumulator tank. If you have the original equipment your Pressure answer is about 1.75 to 2 bar. Also pump cycle time depends on whether you have the OEM accumulator tank and whether it is working and whether the Square D pressure switch is adjusted correctly...this is difficult to get right the first time that you attempt to adjust. Another cause of extended run times is leakage past the one-way valve.

I have attached a page from my Amel School Book which shows the OEM pump and a blow-up of the one-way valve. Is this the pump? If you do not have the OEM pump, check with the pump manufacturer.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970






On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 6:57 AM, pwschofield@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hello to all.  Can you please tell me at what pressure the fresh water pressure cut-off switch should stop the pump.  The boat is new to us and I'm just starting to get familiar with the systems.  We arrived aboard after 4 months away and the water pump seems to be running a long time, compared to what I remember, bringing the system up to pressure.  We are getting pressure at the faucets even after the pump is turned off so I assume pump and expansion tanks are not an issue.  The system seems to be holding pressure as I continue to get water pressure at the faucets hours after the pump has been run.  One of the concerns I have is that the gauge at the accumulator does not appear to move while the pump is running.  Seems like it doesn't get higher than 20 psi.   Glass is broken on the gauge, so yes, a new gauge is in order.  Another gauge in the system just above the fresh water pump next to, what appears to be an inline regulator, shows 1.6-1.8 bar.


Just concerned at running the pump too long for either fear of burning it out or over pressurizing the system and causing damage. 

Thank you for your help

Paul
SV Trillium
SM 215
Brunswick, GA





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: adapter / connection shore power us

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary and Alex,

This really gets confusing. You are both right, sort-of.

But, when marinas have 220VAC 60htz 50 amp connections available, you should use it to avoid potential mistakes...and you should be 100% sure of how to connect.

When Alex was advised about "Phase" I am 99% sure that what they were telling him is that each 110-115VAC in the US (30 amp connector) is actually 1 of the 2 legs of the 220VAC 60htz available from the US type single phase power mains. 

You need to "Y" 2 different legs of the US type 220VAC 60htz to provide 220VAC 60htz power, If the each of the 2 US type 30 amp sides of the Y adapter were connected to the same leg of the 220VAC 60htz main, you will NOT have 220VAC 60htz.

To explain it in color: The US type 220VAC 60htz is color coded this way:
  • Red = 110-115VAC 60htz
  • Black = 110-115VAC 60htz
  • White = Neutral
  • Bare copper = Earth
When the "Y" adapter is used to connect to US type 30 amp connections, each 30 amp connector of the Y has to connect this way:
1st side of the Y:
  • Red
  • White
  • Bare Copper
2nd side of the Y
  • Black
  • White
  • Bare Copper
Of course this gets further confusing because if you were to open the box for the US 30 amp type connector you would find only Black, White and Bare copper. You find this because when using only one leg of 220VAC, the color code used should be Black, White and Bare Copper.

From my rudimentary explanation you should either get it, or understand that you need to be very very careful and if yo don't get it, hire a qualified electrician.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970





Burned Out Headsail Furling Motor

J Wagam <jwagam@...>
 

Hi Amels Owners,

I have run into a bit of an issue with my headsail furling motor. At my local marina, the headstay needs to come off to accommodate the travel lift. After doing this several times the wiring to the headsail furling motor pushed the wire leads together causing the headsail motor to burn. I have the motor off and the Bosch 0136350008 is no longer available. Pasco wants to charge $1500 to rebuild it, which isn't an option because I would like a spare. 

Does anybody know where to buy a new replacement motor that would fit? I have tried calling Bamar dealers and DC motor providers to no avail.

Thank you in advance,
Jay Wagamon
S/V Hobo Tiempo, Mango #60


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fresh Water Pressure

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Paul,

It depends on what pump you have installed. 

Your Amel most likely came with a A.M.F.A. (Reya) #66B fresh water pump and attached stainless steel accumulator tank. If you have the original equipment your Pressure answer is about 1.75 to 2 bar. Also pump cycle time depends on whether you have the OEM accumulator tank and whether it is working and whether the Square D pressure switch is adjusted correctly...this is difficult to get right the first time that you attempt to adjust. Another cause of extended run times is leakage past the one-way valve.

I have attached a page from my Amel School Book which shows the OEM pump and a blow-up of the one-way valve. Is this the pump? If you do not have the OEM pump, check with the pump manufacturer.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970






On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 6:57 AM, pwschofield@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello to all.  Can you please tell me at what pressure the fresh water pressure cut-off switch should stop the pump.  The boat is new to us and I'm just starting to get familiar with the systems.  We arrived aboard after 4 months away and the water pump seems to be running a long time, compared to what I remember, bringing the system up to pressure.  We are getting pressure at the faucets even after the pump is turned off so I assume pump and expansion tanks are not an issue.  The system seems to be holding pressure as I continue to get water pressure at the faucets hours after the pump has been run.  One of the concerns I have is that the gauge at the accumulator does not appear to move while the pump is running.  Seems like it doesn't get higher than 20 psi.   Glass is broken on the gauge, so yes, a new gauge is in order.  Another gauge in the system just above the fresh water pump next to, what appears to be an inline regulator, shows 1.6-1.8 bar.


Just concerned at running the pump too long for either fear of burning it out or over pressurizing the system and causing damage. 

Thank you for your help

Paul
SV Trillium
SM 215
Brunswick, GA




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: adapter / connection shore power us

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Gary,

Before I went to Tortola, I asked using that specific part to Marinco and was advised not to use this because of the Phase.


Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Island Water World Marina, Sint Maarten, NA




--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 6/9/17, Gary Wells gary@sunshineduo.us [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: adapter / connection shore power us
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, June 9, 2017, 11:52 PM


 









If the marina only has 30A 110v connectors you can
combine two of them using a"Y" connector that then
provides 220v.

The marinas I have stayed at that only have 30a at the post
generally can provide these "Y" combiner adapters,
as 220v 50a is a pretty common U.S. need.



Here's one:

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/marinco--reverse-y-adapter-2-30a-male-to-1-50a-female--10072957?recordNum=38



Gary W.

S/V Adagio​

Patmos


New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,


This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.


File : /AutoPilot Tech Info & Maint./S3G.odt
Uploaded by : sailor63109 <sailor63109@yahoo.com>
Description : How to diagnose a problem with Raymarine S3G Course Computer and ST7001 Control Head


You can access this file at the URL:
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Re: Fresh Water Pressure

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Paul ,

What is the state of your batteries ?
If the battery bank voltage is low, the FW pump may not have enough power to attain the high pressure setting and therefore run continuously .....you can ask me how I know that !
Normally the pressure switch is set around 20- 40 psi...i.e cut in at 20 ...cut out at 40, but it is adjustable and someone may have adjusted it differently
The broken glass on your gauge may, but normally wouldn't, affect its function.
Cheers
Alan 
Elyse SM437


Re: Rudder Sensor

Duane Siegfri
 

I called Raymarine and they gave me the following checks to test the rudder sensor, I thought they might be helpful to someone in the future.

TEST THE RUDDER SENSOR
1)  Turn power off to the S3G.  
2)  Remove the wires labeled "Rudder" from the S3G Course Computer.  You'll need a small screwdriver to press on the white tab just above the wire.  That will release the wire.  Take care the screwdriver does not slip and hit the circuit board behind it.
3)  Test the resistance between the:
Green and Red wires, should be 5K.
Green and Blue wires, should be between 1.7K and 3.3K depending on wheel position.
Red and Blue wires, should be between 1.7 and 3.3k depending on wheel position.
All resistances can be plus or minus 10% and be within specifications.

It turns out that my rudder sensor is within spec,it was 5.3 G/R, 2.13 to 3.4 G/B, and 3.4 to 2.13 R/B.  So it must be the S3 course computer I bought reconditioned.  I'm going to return that to the provider.

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder Sensor

Symphony
 

Hi Duane,
There should be a rudder indicator test in the diagnostic and set-up section of the plotter.  It will check for the full voltage range of motion as well as polarity. Poke around in the menus to set up a new boat.

I had a very similar problem once and it turned out that the rudder position rheostat had a little dead zone if the wheel was hard hard over to Port. This would upset the sync. It was short term fixable by just turning the wheel hard over the other way and then centering again.

Best wishes,
Richard
Ex-Tartan 4100 now looking at Amel and some others. 

On Jun 12, 2017, at 7:25 AM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

It's tough to catch a break!  We recently had the S3G Course Computer go down.  The problem was diagnosed as a factory programming glitch that sends out a "kill" signal that shuts the unit down.  Raymarine had a software update available.


We bought a reconditioned one from Dan Gehrhardt and installed it and now the rudder sensor doesn't work.  I know for a fact it was working when I was eliminating possible problems with the S3G.  I installed the reconditioned one and then went through the rudder sensor wires twice more thinking I had a bad connection but still the rudder sensor is dead (no output to the ST7001).


I had Dan fix my old S3G and I'm going to install that one when we receive it to see if it might be the S3G that's the problem.


In the meantime, is there a way to determine if the rudder sensor is OK?  I'm guessing that the Black and Red wires are power from the S3G to the rudder sensor, and the green and blue wires are some kind of rheostat (believe me, I'm no electronics whiz!).  So if I hooked up a voltmeter to the green and blue should I expect a voltage?  Would the voltage change as the wheel is turned?


Any other ideas to check the rudder sensor?


Thanks,

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477