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Re: Sharki genoa top furling device blocked
Volker
Problem solved:-) The ship yard was able to take the swivel apart and to grind the plastic bearings a bit, so that they are turning now smoothly. The start of the problem was that the previous owner had used mineral oil grease and this caused the plastic bearings to swell. Time over time the swivel starts to turn stiffer and stiffer until it bends the horns and finally blocks. Volker Mickmoon, Sharki hull 176  
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Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
So glad to see some good reports on the VP. Our 110-IC is still running strong at 2200 hours and has been very reliable. It’s good to see that there is a good option out there, once needed. Thanks for your feedback to the forum to keep
the rest of us informed.
Happy Sailing;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
AMEL 54 #099
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2020 10:23 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
Agree Teun.
The H is a different animal.
We’re at about 550 hours on our “H,” replaced early 2019.
Flawless so far (as it should be!). Quiet. Very smooth. More efficient. No smoke.
The C started with issues around 700 hours.
Possibly, finally, a reliable Volvo D3?
Porter
On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:32 AM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Yes Sir – makes completely sense and that’s the same engine Porter McROBERTS and I have.
The previous engine was D3-110i-C
Thanks for the help.
Best Regards Teun
A54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020 06:31:12
From what I can tell, and the documentation is spares on this, we have a D3-110i-H
Does that make any sense?
On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:02 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Matt,
I don’t think VP changes designation per year as the 2007 A54 have the “C” and for sure also the 2009 A54 had “C”.
Clearly between 2009 and 2017 they went from “C” to “H” and I am trying to determine if since the “H” VP has introduced another “upgrade”.
I have the “H” since June 2018 and have been extreme happy with my (costly) decision to replace the “C”. Now having about 450hrs, it has been a pleasure to operate;
I have had several times people standing in the cockpit suggesting me to start the engine while it was already running.
Best Regards Teun
A54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020 06:00:53
It’s a 2019 motor.
“i “?
On Sep 6, 2020, at 6:01 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Hi Matt,
The VOLVO PENTA D3 you have is that generation “H” with 110HP?
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT A54 #128
In Storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA
September 6, 2020 09:01:27
USA cell: +1 832 477 8842
AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909
You can follow AMELIT via this link:
https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT
Our new Volvo Penta D-3 has 4.48 bar at 1800 rpm. You might be OK.
Hi Paul, Ralph, Mohammad and Arno,
thank you for your answers and your experience.
We connected an external gauge and the pressure is with cold engine at 2bar at 700rpm (idle) and 4bar at 1500rpm.
After 15min. with normal oil temperature (75degree) the oil pressure drops to 1.3bar when idling.
The Volvo expert thinks, that this is not enough.
Actually the oil pressure sensor should not trigger before the oil pressure drops down to 0.7bar. That´s why I think the old sensor is too sensitive…
First I will try it with a new sensor… unfortunately it needs time to get it, and maybe someone of you have some experience with the oil-pressure with a warm engine…
Am 03.09.2020 um 11:13 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:
I just had the same problem. Connecting an external gauge the pressure is normal, so I’m getting a new sensor. Note also that you cannot use a normal Volvo sensor, you must get the specially modified one that
takes the bonding connection from Gwen Marine Service in France - €78.
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
since yesterday I have an oil pressure problem on my AMEL 54#96.
When I go from normal speed to idle, the oil alarm starts.
Of course, this doesn´t happen in the port but between the islands in Croatia.
My German Volvo expert suspects that the oil is too thin.
Diesel has probably gotten into the oil.
That´s why I changed the oil. More than 7 liters of very thin oil came out.
Then the engine ran again without an oil pressure alarm.
But today, when I switched back to idle, the alarm went on again.
I appreciate any advice or experiences.
Currently Croatia close to Dubrovnik
You need a Puller it's much safer
but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge
-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54
I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.
It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced.
Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out.
Does anyone have a better idea?
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
Agree Teun. The H is a different animal. We’re at about 550 hours on our “H,” replaced early 2019. Flawless so far (as it should be!). Quiet. Very smooth. More efficient. No smoke. The C started with issues around 700 hours. Possibly, finally, a reliable Volvo D3?
Porter Porter McRoberts S/V IBIS A54-152 WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206Www.fouribis.net
On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:32 AM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Yes Sir – makes completely sense and that’s the same engine Porter McROBERTS and I have.
The previous engine was D3-110i-C
Thanks for the help.
Best Regards Teun
A54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020
06:31:12
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2020 06:19
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
From what I can tell, and the documentation is spares on this, we have a D3-110i-H
Does that make any sense?
On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:02 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Matt,
I don’t think VP changes designation per year as the 2007 A54 have the “C” and for sure also the 2009 A54 had “C”.
Clearly between 2009 and 2017 they went from “C” to “H” and I am trying to determine if since the “H” VP has introduced another “upgrade”.
I have the “H” since June 2018 and have been extreme happy with my (costly) decision to replace the “C”. Now having about 450hrs, it has been a pleasure to operate;
I have had several times people standing in the cockpit suggesting me to start the engine while it was already running.
Best Regards Teun
A54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020 06:00:53
It’s a 2019 motor.
“i “?
On Sep 6, 2020, at 6:01 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Hi Matt,
The VOLVO PENTA D3 you have is that generation “H” with 110HP?
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT A54 #128
In Storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA
September 6, 2020 09:01:27
USA cell: +1 832 477 8842
AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909
You can follow AMELIT via this link:
https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT
Our new Volvo Penta D-3 has 4.48 bar at 1800 rpm. You might be OK.
Hi Paul, Ralph, Mohammad and Arno,
thank you for your answers and your experience.
We connected an external gauge and the pressure is with cold engine at 2bar at 700rpm (idle) and 4bar at 1500rpm.
After 15min. with normal oil temperature (75degree) the oil pressure drops to 1.3bar when idling.
The Volvo expert thinks, that this is not enough.
Actually the oil pressure sensor should not trigger before the oil pressure drops down to 0.7bar. That´s why I think the old sensor is too sensitive…
First I will try it with a new sensor… unfortunately it needs time to get it, and maybe someone of you have some experience with the oil-pressure with a warm engine…
Am 03.09.2020 um 11:13 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:
I just had the same problem. Connecting an external gauge the pressure is normal, so I’m getting a new sensor. Note also that you cannot use a normal Volvo sensor, you must get the specially modified one that
takes the bonding connection from Gwen Marine Service in France - €78.
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
since yesterday I have an oil pressure problem on my AMEL 54#96.
When I go from normal speed to idle, the oil alarm starts.
Of course, this doesn´t happen in the port but between the islands in Croatia.
My German Volvo expert suspects that the oil is too thin.
Diesel has probably gotten into the oil.
That´s why I changed the oil. More than 7 liters of very thin oil came out.
Then the engine ran again without an oil pressure alarm.
But today, when I switched back to idle, the alarm went on again.
I appreciate any advice or experiences.
Currently Croatia close to Dubrovnik
You need a Puller it's much safer
but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge
-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54
I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.
It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced.
Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out.
Does anyone have a better idea?
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: A54 hawsehole and chain guide
Teun BAAS
Thomas,
Does this mean that every time you weigh anchor that somebody is guiding this device by hand in the right direction to evenly spread the anchor chain?
If so then I clearly have too many sails in the sail locker as it is completely full and was really a massive, massive head ache to get to the chain locker when
the new (galvanized) chain bungled up. I never had the bungling up issue with the OEM SS chain and since I pushed a bunch of the galvanized chain all the way to the back it hasn’t happened since. It is rare, even in the South Pacific, that I use the last 30
meters of a 100 meter chain so pushing those 30 plus meters all the way back in the chain locker I believe prevents the bundle of chain getting too high in the front and thus getting tangled/bungled.
But your device looks what I need but then I also need: A) easily access to the chain locker as well as B) a pair of hands during departure.
Best Regards Teun
A 54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020
06:46:43
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Sv Garulfo via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 15:07
To: Amel Yacht owners Group <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 hawsehole and chain guide
We recently end-to-ended our anchor chain and I found the pictured device useful to guide the chain nice and flat at the bottom of the chain locker.
It’s simply a piece of PVC pipe with a couple of small line to gutter the chain in various corners of the locker.
And when you don’t use it, it snaps happily on the hawsehole pipe for efficient storage.
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Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
Teun BAAS
Yes Sir – makes completely sense and that’s the same engine Porter McROBERTS and I have.
The previous engine was D3-110i-C
Thanks for the help.
Best Regards Teun
A54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020
06:31:12
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2020 06:19
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
From what I can tell, and the documentation is spares on this, we have a D3-110i-H
Does that make any sense?
On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:02 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Matt,
I don’t think VP changes designation per year as the 2007 A54 have the “C” and for sure also the 2009 A54 had “C”.
Clearly between 2009 and 2017 they went from “C” to “H” and I am trying to determine if since the “H” VP has introduced another “upgrade”.
I have the “H” since June 2018 and have been extreme happy with my (costly) decision to replace the “C”. Now having about 450hrs, it has been a pleasure to operate;
I have had several times people standing in the cockpit suggesting me to start the engine while it was already running.
Best Regards Teun
A54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020 06:00:53
It’s a 2019 motor.
“i “?
On Sep 6, 2020, at 6:01 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Hi Matt,
The VOLVO PENTA D3 you have is that generation “H” with 110HP?
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT A54 #128
In Storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA
September 6, 2020 09:01:27
USA cell: +1 832 477 8842
AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909
You can follow AMELIT via this link:
https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT
Our new Volvo Penta D-3 has 4.48 bar at 1800 rpm. You might be OK.
Hi Paul, Ralph, Mohammad and Arno,
thank you for your answers and your experience.
We connected an external gauge and the pressure is with cold engine at 2bar at 700rpm (idle) and 4bar at 1500rpm.
After 15min. with normal oil temperature (75degree) the oil pressure drops to 1.3bar when idling.
The Volvo expert thinks, that this is not enough.
Actually the oil pressure sensor should not trigger before the oil pressure drops down to 0.7bar. That´s why I think the old sensor is too sensitive…
First I will try it with a new sensor… unfortunately it needs time to get it, and maybe someone of you have some experience with the oil-pressure with a warm engine…
Am 03.09.2020 um 11:13 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:
I just had the same problem. Connecting an external gauge the pressure is normal, so I’m getting a new sensor. Note also that you cannot use a normal Volvo sensor, you must get the specially modified one that
takes the bonding connection from Gwen Marine Service in France - €78.
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
since yesterday I have an oil pressure problem on my AMEL 54#96.
When I go from normal speed to idle, the oil alarm starts.
Of course, this doesn´t happen in the port but between the islands in Croatia.
My German Volvo expert suspects that the oil is too thin.
Diesel has probably gotten into the oil.
That´s why I changed the oil. More than 7 liters of very thin oil came out.
Then the engine ran again without an oil pressure alarm.
But today, when I switched back to idle, the alarm went on again.
I appreciate any advice or experiences.
Currently Croatia close to Dubrovnik
You need a Puller it's much safer
but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge
-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54
I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.
It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced.
Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out.
Does anyone have a better idea?
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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|
|
Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
Matt Salatino
From what I can tell, and the documentation is spares on this, we have a D3-110i-H Does that make any sense? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:02 PM, Teun BAAS < teun@...> wrote:
Matt,
I don’t think VP changes designation per year as the 2007 A54 have the “C” and for sure also the 2009 A54 had “C”.
Clearly between 2009 and 2017 they went from “C” to “H” and I am trying to determine if since the “H” VP has introduced another “upgrade”.
I have the “H” since June 2018 and have been extreme happy with my (costly) decision to replace the “C”. Now having about 450hrs, it has been a pleasure to operate;
I have had several times people standing in the cockpit suggesting me to start the engine while it was already running.
Best Regards Teun
A54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020
06:00:53
It’s a 2019 motor.
“i “?
On Sep 6, 2020, at 6:01 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Hi Matt,
The VOLVO PENTA D3 you have is that generation “H” with 110HP?
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT A54 #128
In Storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA
September 6, 2020 09:01:27
USA cell: +1 832 477 8842
AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909
You can follow AMELIT via this link:
https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT
Our new Volvo Penta D-3 has 4.48 bar at 1800 rpm. You might be OK.
Hi Paul, Ralph, Mohammad and Arno,
thank you for your answers and your experience.
We connected an external gauge and the pressure is with cold engine at 2bar at 700rpm (idle) and 4bar at 1500rpm.
After 15min. with normal oil temperature (75degree) the oil pressure drops to 1.3bar when idling.
The Volvo expert thinks, that this is not enough.
Actually the oil pressure sensor should not trigger before the oil pressure drops down to 0.7bar. That´s why I think the old sensor is too sensitive…
First I will try it with a new sensor… unfortunately it needs time to get it, and maybe someone of you have some experience with the oil-pressure with a warm engine…
Am 03.09.2020 um 11:13 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:
I just had the same problem. Connecting an external gauge the pressure is normal, so I’m getting a new sensor. Note also that you cannot use a normal Volvo sensor, you must get the specially modified one that
takes the bonding connection from Gwen Marine Service in France - €78.
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
since yesterday I have an oil pressure problem on my AMEL 54#96.
When I go from normal speed to idle, the oil alarm starts.
Of course, this doesn´t happen in the port but between the islands in Croatia.
My German Volvo expert suspects that the oil is too thin.
Diesel has probably gotten into the oil.
That´s why I changed the oil. More than 7 liters of very thin oil came out.
Then the engine ran again without an oil pressure alarm.
But today, when I switched back to idle, the alarm went on again.
I appreciate any advice or experiences.
Currently Croatia close to Dubrovnik
You need a Puller it's much safer
but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge
-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54
I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.
It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced.
Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out.
Does anyone have a better idea?
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
|
|
|
Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
Teun BAAS
Matt,
I don’t think VP changes designation per year as the 2007 A54 have the “C” and for sure also the 2009 A54 had “C”.
Clearly between 2009 and 2017 they went from “C” to “H” and I am trying to determine if since the “H” VP has introduced another “upgrade”.
I have the “H” since June 2018 and have been extreme happy with my (costly) decision to replace the “C”. Now having about 450hrs, it has been a pleasure to operate;
I have had several times people standing in the cockpit suggesting me to start the engine while it was already running.
Best Regards Teun
A54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020
06:00:53
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 23:43
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
It’s a 2019 motor.
“i “?
On Sep 6, 2020, at 6:01 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Hi Matt,
The VOLVO PENTA D3 you have is that generation “H” with 110HP?
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT A54 #128
In Storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA
September 6, 2020 09:01:27
USA cell: +1 832 477 8842
AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909
You can follow AMELIT via this link:
https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT
Our new Volvo Penta D-3 has 4.48 bar at 1800 rpm. You might be OK.
Hi Paul, Ralph, Mohammad and Arno,
thank you for your answers and your experience.
We connected an external gauge and the pressure is with cold engine at 2bar at 700rpm (idle) and 4bar at 1500rpm.
After 15min. with normal oil temperature (75degree) the oil pressure drops to 1.3bar when idling.
The Volvo expert thinks, that this is not enough.
Actually the oil pressure sensor should not trigger before the oil pressure drops down to 0.7bar. That´s why I think the old sensor is too sensitive…
First I will try it with a new sensor… unfortunately it needs time to get it, and maybe someone of you have some experience with the oil-pressure with a warm engine…
Am 03.09.2020 um 11:13 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:
I just had the same problem. Connecting an external gauge the pressure is normal, so I’m getting a new sensor. Note also that you cannot use a normal Volvo sensor, you must get the specially modified one that
takes the bonding connection from Gwen Marine Service in France - €78.
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
since yesterday I have an oil pressure problem on my AMEL 54#96.
When I go from normal speed to idle, the oil alarm starts.
Of course, this doesn´t happen in the port but between the islands in Croatia.
My German Volvo expert suspects that the oil is too thin.
Diesel has probably gotten into the oil.
That´s why I changed the oil. More than 7 liters of very thin oil came out.
Then the engine ran again without an oil pressure alarm.
But today, when I switched back to idle, the alarm went on again.
I appreciate any advice or experiences.
Currently Croatia close to Dubrovnik
You need a Puller it's much safer
but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge
-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54
I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.
It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced.
Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out.
Does anyone have a better idea?
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: Recommentation for Sharki second autopilot
Volker
A second autopilot is now installed on Mickmoon and is working fine. It became a Raymarine Evolution EV200 with a Jefa DD1 direct drive unit. I have sailed with the new auto pilot during the last 3 months in the baltics and I am very pleased with the performance Volker Mickmoon, Sharki hull 176  
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Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals
Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
Thanks to everyone who gave us information! I thought I would update on what we did to solve the problem of the seal. In the end we managed to solve the problem of the leaking oil, but it looks as if we must have damaged the upper part of the transmission, when we lost the oil. We no longer loose oil but at close to 2 hrs on 1800 rpm the transmission was really hot. We can motor for about 1/2 easily without the transmission getting hot, so can get in and out of harbour easily. Therefore we decided to leave the rest of the repair till we haul out at the end of the season. I’ll attach the photos of how we made the seal. The problem was that the seal between the fibreglass funnel and the aluminum transmission was in parts only 5mm. So we added 30mm stainless corners on all 4 sides so they we now had 35mm to make the seal. It worked!!
Thanks again! Best regards, Helen and Kosta on Meditation SM 29 , 1990 The fibreglass funnel. The aluminum transmission with 2 corners attached and showing where the mechanic filed the transmission body so that the corners would make a seal. Attaching the corners. All 4 corners attached. Back in place and seal made. We took the transmission to a machine shop to have the corners made and to modify the transmission and corners so that the corners fitted tight and could make a seal with the transmission.
On 22 Jul 2020, at 3:03 PM, Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi via groups.io <helenmi57@...> wrote:
Hi Mitchell,
Thanks!! We never had the oil seal...we have taken it apart many times in the 20 years we have her...that is unless it was removed before we bought her....:/ It would be a great help though if you could point it out for us on the plans. We always managed to make the seal with just the gasket maker.... the fibreglass trumpet is not in a good condition anymore, perhaps that’s the problem! Did you make any repairs to that?
Best regards, Helen and Kostas SM 29 of 1990 Sent from my On 22 Jul 2020, at 9:13 AM, Mitchell Petersen <Mitchell.j.petersen@...> wrote:
Hi Helen,
I miss read what you were doing. I thought you were referring to the lower unit.
As far as your oil leak goes. There is a 85x110x12mm oil seal with stainless steel spring at the top of the lower unit where the trumpet looking fibreglass thing marries with the lower unit. I believe this oil seal is designed to retain the oil, should this leak as a backup you have the silicone gasket you are using where the upper unit is bolted to the fibreglass trumpet looking thing. I would guess this oil seal has been dislodged or damaged when the upper unit was repaired/ reinstalled.
The lower unit needs to be removed to replace this seal. This is not a difficult task once you have the upper unit off but the boat obviously has to be out of the water.
For economy I just replaced the oil with engine oil as originally recommend by Amel. When examined all gears top and bottom had very little where so I believe engine oil is sufficient to use in this light application. It is my opinion damage caused to these units is most likely often from miss aligned engines rather then anything to do with oil grade.
Let me know if it is unclear where the oil seal is located and I will mark it up on the plan.
Mitchell
On Mon., 20 Jul. 2020, 5:17 pm Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi, < helenmi57@...> wrote: Hi Mitchell,
Thanks!! Our fibreglass did not have the aluminium part, at least not since we have the boat, we have taken it apart many times in the 20 years we have her, probably Amel made the change after our hull. We changed all the bearings and gears in the upper part, but didn’t touch the lower. Have you changed the viscosity of the oil you use or do you still use the 15W 40? All the best, Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990 I have the aluminium one which I recently fully rebuilt with all new bearings on both the upper and lower unit which requires cutting through the fibreglass and glassing back to original shape.
There is meant to be a small (approx. 2-3 inches) section of aluminium tubing glassed into the lower unit where the propelled shaft exits the until / where the fibreglass tapers which sounds like is no longer there since your service.
Mitchell SN33 1993 On Sat., 18 Jul. 2020, 1:11 am Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi, < helenmi57@...> wrote: I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them. We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.
Many thanks, Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990
Hi Bill,
Thanks for the prompt reply! Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!! Thanks again Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990 <image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi < helenmi57@...> wrote: We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990
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Re: Sharki genoa top furling device blocked
Hi Volker,
when the bearings by ship yard not in the store, send me the numbers from the bearings.
I will ask in our company, if the bearings in our store or if there an alternative typ.
Best Regards
Ralf
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locked
Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -
Great that you took the plunge. Those Agm batteries aren't cheap so if you can keep your lithium alive, I'm certain it will save you money over the long term. I'm a little confused on your air con runtime on battery. Not sure about the sm, but on our 54 we have a Climma 9 in the aft cabin, which draws 782watts/26.3v=29.7amps and the calpeda pump draws 14 amps. FYI the voltage is what my victron has calculated as the average voltage under draw during the last two years. The climma draw is per spec, but only when the compressor is running. So even assuming the extreme/unrealistic case of 100% duty cycle, that's 44 amps an hour or around 132 amp hours over 3 hours. With your 600amps at 24v, you should be able to run much longer than 3 hours. Perhaps your battery monitor is not calibrated correctly? Or perhaps you're talking about running all 3 air con units? I'm always excited by a cheaper way to do the same thing. The victron / master volt setup is far more expensive but I guess two years ago when I installed it, I was so inexperienced with this lithium stuff and given the catastrophic battery failure and boat damage that can occur if you don't have the proper safety measures in place, I was too chicken to try it on my own. Excited to see how you managed those risks for far less cost than we (Garulfo, Joerg, myself) did. Too late for me but perhaps it can help others. Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Sharki genoa top furling device blocked
Aras Grinius
There 2 sets of bearings. Before taking seal out take note of numbers. Bearing 123 should have the seal and bearings to match. I think bearing 123 is in France Aras
On Mon, Sep 7, 2020, 12:42 PM Volker < Puchta@...> wrote: Hi Aras,
I went to a ship yard and tomorrow we will take down the fore stay, to be able to take it apart.
Like you I tried everything, rinsing with water, with dry lubricant, ... Nothing was successfull, it seems we have to take it apart and may be rebuild it by a machine shop.
Regards,
Volker
Mickmoon, Sharki, hull no. 176
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Re: Sharki genoa top furling device blocked
Volker
Hi Aras,
I went to a ship yard and tomorrow we will take down the fore stay, to be able to take it apart.
Like you I tried everything, rinsing with water, with dry lubricant, ... Nothing was successfull, it seems we have to take it apart and may be rebuild it by a machine shop.
Regards,
Volker
Mickmoon, Sharki, hull no. 176
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Re: Failure of the Raymarine autopilot linear drive M81134 24v
I experienced a Raymarine clutch failure, but that failure was because the autopilot voltage to the clutch was set at 24-volts. Raymarine Type 2 drives have a 12-volt clutch and a 24-volt motor. They are very reliable, but I think 18 years may be near the end of life for the motor and clutch.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Hello!
Has your autopilot's electric motor failed?
If you have heard of people's motors failing, I'll buy a new one on the spot, but I've only ever heard of clutch, belt, and bearing failures.
My autopilot works perfectly well but, seeing, as it is, that the drive is now 18 years old, Pochon in La Rochelle is suggesting the electric motor carbons be replaced, except that Raymarine does not sell them, so Pochon says to buy a new motor for €400.
Thanks in advance for your input,
s/v Peregrinus
La Rochelle, France
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Re: Zoom meeting - QSails owner/manager will present sails for Amels - Sat, 09/12/2020 20:00-21:00, Please RSVP
#cal-reminder
Alexis,
I do not know exactly what he is going to present, but he makes Code 0 / Code D sails for Amel Yachts.
If he does not answer what you are looking for, he will remain in the ZOOM meeting for questions.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Hi,
interesting topic, I will try to attend if I can.
2 questions :
-is this discussion include Code 0 / Code D solutions? and generally speaking downwind / Lightwind solutions ?
-would you mix the good/better/best solutions depending on the sail Genoa/main/mizzen? (as you don't put the same ambitions in a genoa and a mizzen...)
cheers
Alex
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Failure of the Raymarine autopilot linear drive M81134 24v
Hello!
Has your autopilot's electric motor failed?
If you have heard of people's motors failing, I'll buy a new one on the spot, but I've only ever heard of clutch, belt, and bearing failures.
My autopilot works perfectly well but, seeing, as it is, that the drive is now 18 years old, Pochon in La Rochelle is suggesting the electric motor carbons be replaced, except that Raymarine does not sell them, so Pochon says to buy a new motor for €400.
Thanks in advance for your input,
s/v Peregrinus
La Rochelle, France
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading
I had not mentioned that before leaving Carriacou the engine did not start. There was no lighting on the instrument panel
It took a few minutes to find that the 12V + cable was corroded and separated from the panel. So, I removed the corroded part of the cable and the engine started. After less than a few minutes the sails were up and the engine turned it off for the next 50 hours while we sailed with the asymetric spy and the mizzen staysail on a great broad reach with 18 knots of breeze. The “overheating” only observed when we started the engine again to motor sail from Bonaire towards curaçao.
Yesterday I conducted a few more tests:
First, I unscrewed the sensor from the engine and submerged its tip on a small container with hot water at 160 F degrees. When I turned on the engine switch it was reading 200 F. So that confirmed that it had to be either the sensor or the gauge, at least I though. However when I dismounted the instrument panel to check if corrosion was involved in the problem, the temperature readings became erratic going from 120 to 220 up and down depending on how I moved the cables behind the panel. I went on and cleaned al the connections I could find and after fiddling with the cables the temperature of the water and that of the gauge coincided in a systematic manner.
CONCLUSION: the engine was never overheating. The sensor and the gauge were OK. The reason for the bad reading was corrosion on the cables behind the instrument panel. No need to change the gauge, or the sensor, I am just going by buy a new set of cables and two gun infrared thermometers!
I hope the this may help others when they have a similar problem
Thanks to all for providing very helpful suggestions:
Jose Venegas
Ipanema
SM2K 278
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Re: Sharki genoa top furling device blocked
Aras Grinius
Hi Volker.
I seem to be having the very same problem. I tried spraying it, then rinsing it generously and copiously with water. Same result. Turns very stiffly. In fact it got bad enough where my jib tang had cracked. I had to remove and make a new one. My next steps will be to remove the top and press out the bearings. If you have better pictures I sure would appreciate seeing them.
Aras Sharki #163
On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:41 AM Volker < Puchta@...> wrote: My top furling device for the genoa is turning very very badly. I need help to get it going or to dismantle it.
I have already taken away the brown tigthening ring and now I can see a white plastic bearing that seems to cause the problem.
Any idea how to get it going again?
Thank you,
Volker
Mickmoon, Sharki, hull no. 176
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Sharki genoa top furling device blocked
Volker
My top furling device for the genoa is turning very very badly. I need help to get it going or to dismantle it.
I have already taken away the brown tigthening ring and now I can see a white plastic bearing that seems to cause the problem.
Any idea how to get it going again?
Thank you,
Volker
Mickmoon, Sharki, hull no. 176
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Re: Zoom meeting - QSails owner/manager will present sails for Amels - Sat, 09/12/2020 20:00-21:00, Please RSVP
#cal-reminder
Hi,
interesting topic, I will try to attend if I can.
2 questions :
-is this discussion include Code 0 / Code D solutions? and generally speaking downwind / Lightwind solutions ?
-would you mix the good/better/best solutions depending on the sail Genoa/main/mizzen? (as you don't put the same ambitions in a genoa and a mizzen...)
cheers
Alex
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