Date   

Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

James Sterling
 

What was Amel’s thinking on the need for an isolated ground for the generator and 185 amp alternator?  It seems to confound local Yanmar techs as there are no Yanmar wiring diagrams available to them.  Their initial reaction is to want to take the isolated ground out somehow.


This problem started as a non-functioning tachometer.  The flywheel sensor ground is indeed bad, pointing as you say up the line on the wiring loom or somewhere else on the engine.  A jumper wire placed on the tach sensor ground connector to another engine ground point brought it to life.  All was well until the genset was started on passage.  Genset started, isolated ground started clicking rapidly, engine failed to start, isolated ground was open, top push button engaged, engine would start, but tach indicated interference. 


In my initial thought on the initial tach issue I was thinking a bad ignition switch, but since finding that the tach sensor ground wouldn’t work, it points to somewhere in the loom or on an engine connection in my mind.  Opening the wiring loom on the engine would be a big job for me, if it were in the loom from the engine to the helm, that would be another matter entirely.  Jumping the ground to get the tach working was too easy.  Obviously, there is a larger problem.  What do you think the likelihood of the ground short being in the engine wiring loom?  Could it be a bad sensor or relay in the same circuit?  Does a wiring diagram of this motor with the isolated ground shown exist?


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


Sea water chest

Ron Hynes <riffhynes@...>
 

I have a '76 Meltem and have recently experienced a blockage below the sea cock feeding the chest. A diver was able to clear about 20cm from the hull surface to where the hose makes a 90 degree bend but was unable to clear further. Any ideas as to clear this last area would be appreciated.

Riff on Swan Song, Amel #29


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Porter,

as Mark says, you should be able to turn the blades with one finger. If not, the blades cannot take the same pitch and overload the engine.
This is a problem with the ball bearings of the blades. These are watertight ball bearings with steel balls (unlike the first generation of AUTOPROPS with open bearings and stainless steel balls). They need to be greased every time the boat is hauled out and at least once a year. These ones may not be watertight anymore, and the balls got rusty. They will probably need replacement. Did someone try to grease the bearings before launching?
The second problem was that the blades were fouled, and from what I see, the fouling may take off 20% of the engine's power (even with new bearings). I guess the prop is now clean!!

So, don't touch the engine until you have an AUTOPROP in working order. You could make the engine tests with the fixed prop that is originally supplied with the 54, as I guess the sellers will not be able to get new bearings and replace them quickly.

Have a nice day.

Olivier


On Saturday, April 1, 2017 6:11 AM, "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
The rebuild of the prop is simple, it just takes time. You can do it yourself.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 5:54 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...
 
 
I totally agree with Bill

6 months ago, my Auto prop was dirty (not as bas as the one on the video) and I had lot of black smoke and couldn't exceed 1350 rpm...
I scuba dive, cleaned it, then was back to 2400 rpm.

Since you already put out money for trip, haul out, etc. have the current owner have the propeller "properly" rebuilt (had mine 2 years ago) then go again for a test.
May be you split the cost. If it solves the problem, like I think it will do, then good. But should the engine still smoke, then i would pass...

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Island Water World Marina, Sint Maarten, NA

--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 3/31/17, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Friday, March 31, 2017, 4:38 PM


 









Porter that prop is fouled
enough to be the source of all of your issues.
I cannot guarantee that it is 100%
of the source, but probably is.
Bill
On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at
12:40 PM, W Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:















 









Bill
Included
below is a video showing the smoke as well as the belly of
the beast and the prop itself.I include the video so you can
asses as well.I really appreciate your
thoughts!

Porter
https://youtu.be/uUDC1Wu_KuU



On Mar
30, 2017, at 1:37 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com
> wrote:

Porter,
I am
really very surprised that Dave Huffman, the broker, the
Volvo mechanics, and Nigel Calder never asked if the
propellor was clean. The number one cause of the symptoms
you mentioned is an overloaded diesel engine. The number one
cause of an overloaded diesel on an Amel with an AutoProp is
growth on the blades...even a small amount of growth. Growth
causes the blades to pitch too much, biting too much water
and overloads the engine.
Also, from my experience, people
like Nigel Calder who make imperative and absolute
statements like "...should never smoke
and is indicative of a serious issue,"
are only correct the majority of the time and usually
provide good advice for gamblers. I hate
gambling.
So, I
will ask you: Is the propellor clean?
The other thing that I sometimes
hear from experts is that the H6 AutoProp is too large or
too small. Evidence that it is correct for a SM and a 54 is
that over 600 Amels are operating with them...I believe that
fact is much more credible than anyone's
opinion.
Lastly, some
of the Volvo D-3 110 have issues that sometimes even experts
cannot figure out. If you own a good one, you will love
it...if you own a bad one, good luck. That said, the chances
of that Volvo being a good one are very high because based
on the hull number, that engine was probably made in
Volvo's 4th-5th year of production of the D3
110.
My advice,
thoroughly clean that propellor and try things
again.
Best,
BillX-BeBe
On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at
10:43 AM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [
amelyachtowners] ers@...> wrote:
 
Porter, I’m not sure
why you would trust the opinion of a group member rather
than your own instincts and opinions of the expert
mechanics? You seem convinced the boat has an issue and I
seriously doubt even the most knowledgeable members of this
group can guide or are willing to guide you down a
particular path.   If
this is the boat for you, then reach a deal with the owner.
Or, cut your losses and look for another
boat.  With best
regards, Mark SkipperSailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275Currenlty
cruising – Turks and Caicos
Islandswww.creampuff.us 




W.
Porter McRoberts MD FAAPMR ABPMR ABA/PainDirector
Interventional Spine, Pain Medicine,
NeurosurgeryHoly Cross
HospitalFort Lauderdale,
FL Assistant Professor, University of
Miami School of Medicinewww.fouribis.comwww.internationalhouseofpain.
comportermcroberts@...












































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New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,


This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
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File : /Eudora Soba GK340 Washing Machine/Eudora Soba GK340 parts list (En).pdf
Uploaded by : seagasm <seagasm@gmail.com>
Description : English Version


You can access this file at the URL:
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To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
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Regards,


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New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,


This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.


File : /Eudora Soba GK340 Washing Machine/Eudora Soba GK340 parts list (De).pdf
Uploaded by : seagasm <seagasm@gmail.com>
Description : German Version


You can access this file at the URL:
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To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Eumenia Goldkind EU340 washing machine

seagasm@...
 

Hi Bill, no the washing machine came with the boat, the best I can guess at this time, the original owner John Hofmann had it installed when he purchased from Amel back in '96.

I have posted the parts list in the files folder under the title, "Eudora Soba GK340" Maybe someone might recognize it.

Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 171


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

eric freedman
 

Hi James,

I believe you are referring to the Valeo Solenoid with the rubber push button on top.

You can only get that one from Amel. However you can go to any starter motor / alternator shop and purchase an isolated ground solenoid. The only difference is you will not have the push button.

 

With respect to your electrical problem. The tachometer wire is a separate wire that runs from the sensor on the flywheel directly to the tachometer. The solenoid is not in any way connected to it. I believe you have a short in the black ground wire which I described in a post yesterday, shorting the tach wire as well. I believe you will have to open up the harness to find the problem. Fortunately the tach wire is easy to find. Start at the sensor at the flywheel and trace it to the connectors at the side of the engine near the foam of the fuel tank and see if it is shorted to some other wire.

 

I have some other ideas but this is the simplest one.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:02 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

Super Maramu 2000 #418
Longbow



---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote :

James,

What boat do you have?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 12:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

My slave solenoid has started clicking when the generator is running.  It also interferes with the Engine tach when the engine (4jh3-HTE) and genset are running together.  Has anyone had a similar problem?  I'd like to replace the solenoid anyway.  Is there an US replacement or is this part still available from Amel?

Thanks in advance.

James


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

eric freedman
 

 

Hi James,

I believe you are referring to the Valeo Solenoid with the rubber push button on top.

You can only get that one from Amel. However you can go to any starter motor / alternator shop and purchase an isolated ground solenoid. The only difference is you will not have the push button.

 

With respect to your electrical problem. The tachometer wire is a separate wire that runs from the sensor on the flywheel directly to the tachometer. The solenoid is not in any way connected to it. I believe you have a short in the black ground wire which I described in a post yesterday, shorting the tach wire as well. I believe you will have to open up the harness to find the problem. Fortunately the tach wire is easy to find. Start at the sensor at the flywheel and trace it to the connectors at the side of the engine near the foam of the fuel tank and see if it is shorted to some other wire.

 

I have some other ideas but this is the simplest one.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:02 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

Super Maramu 2000 #418
Longbow



---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote :

James,

What boat do you have?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 12:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

My slave solenoid has started clicking when the generator is running.  It also interferes with the Engine tach when the engine (4jh3-HTE) and genset are running together.  Has anyone had a similar problem?  I'd like to replace the solenoid anyway.  Is there an US replacement or is this part still available from Amel?

Thanks in advance.

James


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

eric freedman
 

The rebuild of the prop is simple, it just takes time. You can do it yourself.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 5:54 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

 

 

I totally agree with Bill

6 months ago, my Auto prop was dirty (not as bas as the one on the video) and I had lot of black smoke and couldn't exceed 1350 rpm...
I scuba dive, cleaned it, then was back to 2400 rpm.

Since you already put out money for trip, haul out, etc. have the current owner have the propeller "properly" rebuilt (had mine 2 years ago) then go again for a test.
May be you split the cost. If it solves the problem, like I think it will do, then good. But should the engine still smoke, then i would pass...

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Island Water World Marina, Sint Maarten, NA

--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 3/31/17, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Friday, March 31, 2017, 4:38 PM


 









Porter that prop is fouled
enough to be the source of all of your issues.
I cannot guarantee that it is 100%
of the source, but probably is.
Bill
On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at
12:40 PM, W Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:















 









Bill
Included
below is a video showing the smoke as well as the belly of
the beast and the prop itself.I include the video so you can
asses as well.I really appreciate your
thoughts!

Porter
https://youtu.be/uUDC1Wu_KuU



On Mar
30, 2017, at 1:37 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com
> wrote:

Porter,
I am
really very surprised that Dave Huffman, the broker, the
Volvo mechanics, and Nigel Calder never asked if the
propellor was clean. The number one cause of the symptoms
you mentioned is an overloaded diesel engine. The number one
cause of an overloaded diesel on an Amel with an AutoProp is
growth on the blades...even a small amount of growth. Growth
causes the blades to pitch too much, biting too much water
and overloads the engine.
Also, from my experience, people
like Nigel Calder who make imperative and absolute
statements like "...should never smoke
and is indicative of a serious issue,"
are only correct the majority of the time and usually
provide good advice for gamblers. I hate
gambling.
So, I
will ask you: Is the propellor clean?
The other thing that I sometimes
hear from experts is that the H6 AutoProp is too large or
too small. Evidence that it is correct for a SM and a 54 is
that over 600 Amels are operating with them...I believe that
fact is much more credible than anyone's
opinion.
Lastly, some
of the Volvo D-3 110 have issues that sometimes even experts
cannot figure out. If you own a good one, you will love
it...if you own a bad one, good luck. That said, the chances
of that Volvo being a good one are very high because based
on the hull number, that engine was probably made in
Volvo's 4th-5th year of production of the D3
110.
My advice,
thoroughly clean that propellor and try things
again.
Best,
BillX-BeBe
On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at
10:43 AM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [
amelyachtowners] ers@...> wrote:
 
Porter, I’m not sure
why you would trust the opinion of a group member rather
than your own instincts and opinions of the expert
mechanics? You seem convinced the boat has an issue and I
seriously doubt even the most knowledgeable members of this
group can guide or are willing to guide you down a
particular path.   If
this is the boat for you, then reach a deal with the owner.
Or, cut your losses and look for another
boat.  With best
regards, Mark SkipperSailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275Currenlty
cruising – Turks and Caicos
Islandswww.creampuff.us 




W.
Porter McRoberts MD FAAPMR ABPMR ABA/PainDirector
Interventional Spine, Pain Medicine,
NeurosurgeryHoly Cross
HospitalFort Lauderdale,
FL Assistant Professor, University of
Miami School of Medicinewww.fouribis.comwww.internationalhouseofpain.
comportermcroberts@...












































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

eric freedman
 

Hi James,

I believe you are referring to the Valeo Solenoid with the rubber push button on top.

You can only get that one from Amel. However you can go to any starter motor / alternator shop and purchase an isolated ground solenoid. The only difference is you will not have the push button.

 

With respect to your electrical problem. The tachometer wire is a separate wire that runs from the sensor on the flywheel directly to the tachometer. The solenoid is not in any way connected to it. I believe you have a short in the black ground wire which I described in a post yesterday, shorting the tach wire as well. I believe you will have to open up the harness to find the problem. Fortunately the tach wire is easy to find. Start at the sensor at the flywheel and trace it to the connectors at the side of the engine near the foam of the fuel tank and see if it is shorted to some other wire.

 

I have some other ideas but this is the simplest one.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:02 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

Super Maramu 2000 #418
Longbow



---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote :

James,

What boat do you have?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 12:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

My slave solenoid has started clicking when the generator is running.  It also interferes with the Engine tach when the engine (4jh3-HTE) and genset are running together.  Has anyone had a similar problem?  I'd like to replace the solenoid anyway.  Is there an US replacement or is this part still available from Amel?

Thanks in advance.

James


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

eric freedman
 

They should also be greased while out of the water.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 3:22 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

 

 

That prop is really fowled. You should be able to turn the blades 360 degrees with one finger.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 1:41 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

 

 

Bill

 

Included below is a video showing the smoke as well as the belly of the beast and the prop itself.I include the video so you can asses as well.

I really appreciate your thoughts!

 

 

Porter

 

 

 

 

 

On Mar 30, 2017, at 1:37 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Porter,

 

I am really very surprised that Dave Huffman, the broker, the Volvo mechanics, and Nigel Calder never asked if the propellor was clean. The number one cause of the symptoms you mentioned is an overloaded diesel engine. The number one cause of an overloaded diesel on an Amel with an AutoProp is growth on the blades...even a small amount of growth. Growth causes the blades to pitch too much, biting too much water and overloads the engine.

 

Also, from my experience, people like Nigel Calder who make imperative and absolute statements like "...should never smoke and is indicative of a serious issue," are only correct the majority of the time and usually provide good advice for gamblers. I hate gambling.

 

So, I will ask you: Is the propellor clean?

 

The other thing that I sometimes hear from experts is that the H6 AutoProp is too large or too small. Evidence that it is correct for a SM and a 54 is that over 600 Amels are operating with them...I believe that fact is much more credible than anyone's opinion.

 

Lastly, some of the Volvo D-3 110 have issues that sometimes even experts cannot figure out. If you own a good one, you will love it...if you own a bad one, good luck. That said, the chances of that Volvo being a good one are very high because based on the hull number, that engine was probably made in Volvo's 4th-5th year of production of the D3 110.

 

My advice, thoroughly clean that propellor and try things again.

 

Best,

 

Bill

X-BeBe

 

On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at 10:43 AM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Porter,

 

I’m not sure why you would trust the opinion of a group member rather than your own instincts and opinions of the expert mechanics? You seem convinced the boat has an issue and I seriously doubt even the most knowledgeable members of this group can guide or are willing to guide you down a particular path.  

 

If this is the boat for you, then reach a deal with the owner. Or, cut your losses and look for another boat.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands

www.creampuff.us

 

 

 

 

 

W. Porter McRoberts MD FAAPMR ABPMR ABA/Pain

Director Interventional Spine, Pain Medicine, Neurosurgery

Holy Cross Hospital

Fort Lauderdale, FL 

Assistant Professor, University of Miami School of Medicine

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] sheet sizes for Maramu bunks

Jacob Champness
 

Thanks James!


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: raw water cooling

greatketch@...
 

Pat,

That was likely us.  Sorry to have missed you!

Bill


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Bill, I will have another look , but can't imagine I would have not noticed it in ten years . Diane and I stopped by your boat at Annapolis during the boat show (at least I think it was your boat) just to say Hi ! , you weren't aboard , sorry we missed you .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

I totally agree with Bill

6 months ago, my Auto prop was dirty (not as bas as the one on the video) and I had lot of black smoke and couldn't exceed 1350 rpm...
I scuba dive, cleaned it, then was back to 2400 rpm.

Since you already put out money for trip, haul out, etc. have the current owner have the propeller "properly" rebuilt (had mine 2 years ago) then go again for a test.
May be you split the cost. If it solves the problem, like I think it will do, then good. But should the engine still smoke, then i would pass...

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Island Water World Marina, Sint Maarten, NA



--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 3/31/17, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@svbebe.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Friday, March 31, 2017, 4:38 PM


 









Porter that prop is fouled
enough to be the source of all of your issues.
I cannot guarantee that it is 100%
of the source, but probably is.
Bill
On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at
12:40 PM, W Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@gmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:















 









Bill
Included
below is a video showing the smoke as well as the belly of
the beast and the prop itself.I include the video so you can
asses as well.I really appreciate your
thoughts!

Porter
https://youtu.be/uUDC1Wu_KuU



On Mar
30, 2017, at 1:37 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@svbebe.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com> wrote:

Porter,
I am
really very surprised that Dave Huffman, the broker, the
Volvo mechanics, and Nigel Calder never asked if the
propellor was clean. The number one cause of the symptoms
you mentioned is an overloaded diesel engine. The number one
cause of an overloaded diesel on an Amel with an AutoProp is
growth on the blades...even a small amount of growth. Growth
causes the blades to pitch too much, biting too much water
and overloads the engine.
Also, from my experience, people
like Nigel Calder who make imperative and absolute
statements like "...should never smoke
and is indicative of a serious issue,"
are only correct the majority of the time and usually
provide good advice for gamblers. I hate
gambling.
So, I
will ask you: Is the propellor clean?
The other thing that I sometimes
hear from experts is that the H6 AutoProp is too large or
too small. Evidence that it is correct for a SM and a 54 is
that over 600 Amels are operating with them...I believe that
fact is much more credible than anyone's
opinion.
Lastly, some
of the Volvo D-3 110 have issues that sometimes even experts
cannot figure out. If you own a good one, you will love
it...if you own a bad one, good luck. That said, the chances
of that Volvo being a good one are very high because based
on the hull number, that engine was probably made in
Volvo's 4th-5th year of production of the D3
110.
My advice,
thoroughly clean that propellor and try things
again.
Best,
BillX-BeBe
On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at
10:43 AM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@gmail.com [
amelyachtowners] <amelyachtown
ers@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Porter, I’m not sure
why you would trust the opinion of a group member rather
than your own instincts and opinions of the expert
mechanics? You seem convinced the boat has an issue and I
seriously doubt even the most knowledgeable members of this
group can guide or are willing to guide you down a
particular path.   If
this is the boat for you, then reach a deal with the owner.
Or, cut your losses and look for another
boat.  With best
regards, Mark SkipperSailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275Currenlty
cruising – Turks and Caicos
Islandswww.creampuff.us 




W.
Porter McRoberts MD FAAPMR ABPMR ABA/PainDirector
Interventional Spine, Pain Medicine,
NeurosurgeryHoly Cross
HospitalFort Lauderdale,
FL Assistant Professor, University of
Miami School of Medicinewww.fouribis.comwww.internationalhouseofpain.
comportermcroberts@gmail.com












































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Porter that prop is fouled enough to be the source of all of your issues.

I cannot guarantee that it is 100% of the source, but probably is.

Bill

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 12:40 PM, W Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill


Included below is a video showing the smoke as well as the belly of the beast and the prop itself.I include the video so you can asses as well.
I really appreciate your thoughts!


Porter





On Mar 30, 2017, at 1:37 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Porter,

I am really very surprised that Dave Huffman, the broker, the Volvo mechanics, and Nigel Calder never asked if the propellor was clean. The number one cause of the symptoms you mentioned is an overloaded diesel engine. The number one cause of an overloaded diesel on an Amel with an AutoProp is growth on the blades...even a small amount of growth. Growth causes the blades to pitch too much, biting too much water and overloads the engine.

Also, from my experience, people like Nigel Calder who make imperative and absolute statements like "...should never smoke and is indicative of a serious issue," are only correct the majority of the time and usually provide good advice for gamblers. I hate gambling.

So, I will ask you: Is the propellor clean?

The other thing that I sometimes hear from experts is that the H6 AutoProp is too large or too small. Evidence that it is correct for a SM and a 54 is that over 600 Amels are operating with them...I believe that fact is much more credible than anyone's opinion.

Lastly, some of the Volvo D-3 110 have issues that sometimes even experts cannot figure out. If you own a good one, you will love it...if you own a bad one, good luck. That said, the chances of that Volvo being a good one are very high because based on the hull number, that engine was probably made in Volvo's 4th-5th year of production of the D3 110.

My advice, thoroughly clean that propellor and try things again.

Best,

Bill
X-BeBe

On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at 10:43 AM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Porter,

 

I’m not sure why you would trust the opinion of a group member rather than your own instincts and opinions of the expert mechanics? You seem convinced the boat has an issue and I seriously doubt even the most knowledgeable members of this group can guide or are willing to guide you down a particular path.  

 

If this is the boat for you, then reach a deal with the owner. Or, cut your losses and look for another boat.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands

www.creampuff.us

 





W. Porter McRoberts MD FAAPMR ABPMR ABA/Pain
Director Interventional Spine, Pain Medicine, Neurosurgery
Holy Cross Hospital
Fort Lauderdale, FL 
Assistant Professor, University of Miami School of Medicine













Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

Patrick McAneny
 

Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: raw water cooling

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, I will have another look , but can't imagine I would have not noticed it in ten years . Diane and I stopped by your boat at Annapolis during the boat show (at least I think it was your boat) just to say Hi ! , you weren't aboard , sorry we missed you .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:58 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: raw water cooling

 
I was told by Joel Potter (who knows these kinds of things) that my boat (#160) was close to the time Amel started putting the anti-syphon vent in the seawater loop.  Mine has it. 

If yours does not, now we have that bracketed a bit tighter at greater than 123, less than 160!

It really is not much help in diagnosing low flow, because the majority of the water still should go out the exhaust hose. The actual purpose of the vent is to prevent syphoning of seawater back into the engine. Its use as a telltale is a nice bonus.

The installation of the vent is not at all obvious, since the vent itself in the center of a hollowed out bolt.  A clever design.  To be sure, run the engine at 2000 rpm (to get the water pump running hard) with the engine room hatch open.  If you have this vent water will be draining into the cockpit scupper right where the seawater loop is attached.

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Isla Caja de Muertos, PR




---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Gary, I have read about this stream of water in the cockpit before and have looked for it and not found it. I don't think my boat has this setup , wish it did. Its hard to lean over the port side far enough to view the exhaust well and then with it being partially in the water it is hard to determine strength of flow. I don't think I am getting all the flow I should , I will take off the oil cooler to see if I have any blockage , I wonder if I should take the raw water manifold off as well for a look see.
Thanks, Pat SM#123


Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

James Sterling
 

Super Maramu 2000 #418
Longbow


---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote :

James,

What boat do you have?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 12:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

My slave solenoid has started clicking when the generator is running.  It also interferes with the Engine tach when the engine (4jh3-HTE) and genset are running together.  Has anyone had a similar problem?  I'd like to replace the solenoid anyway.  Is there an US replacement or is this part still available from Amel?

Thanks in advance.

James