Date   
Re: A54 bow thruster directly to battery or through main switches?

Wolfgang Weber
 

Scott,
When we received our 8 month and 800 sm old Amel 54 the bowthruster stopped to work because one cableshoe pressed on a very short cable on the motor was inside burned and produced its own electrical isolation .
Greetings Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162





Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

Wolfgang Weber
 

Hi Scott,
The problem is ( in EU) Diesel contains 7 % Biodiesel which is hydrophil and this will bring water into the diesel and growth of bacteria = the dieselbug will follow.
A good tested product in Germany is Grotamar , but you will find similar poducts in US.
I use it since first filling.
Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54 #162




Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

Porter McRoberts
 

Exactly all of what you do Scott.  I also have about 20 2 micron racors and use the 2 micron as pre filters.  I change more frequently too. Every 100 hrs or so.  Id love to install a fuel polishing system.  We use the biocide etc.  On the BAJA we use the “Mr. Funnel system (amazon)” with two screens: it's very fast, as fast as I can pour from a Jerry can.  
And, of course as you suggest, lots of prayer.
As you know we had lots of D3 issues.  Even though our new “H” model runs beautifully, I would have gotten a Beta, had I been paying for it.  

Best of Luck

Porter
S/V IBIS A54-152


On Feb 9, 2020, at 9:28 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

My paranoia about my Volvo D3-110 (rev c) has been kicked back into high gear. I think this applies to anyone with a diesel engine but particularly with the hyper sensitive D3-110.

I know a few A54 owners with failed D3-110 due to water ingress. We've discussed that on another thread. I'll leave that discussion there.

Recently I met a HR46 owner who had to lag behind the World ARC ($$$$!) because of diesel bug issues on his D3-110C. Another HR48 owner had the same issue and in both cases, the engine died and wouldn't start back up. His tank was disgusting, apparently. I've opened my inspection hatches and my tank is nearly pristine. But I am not going to rest on my laurels. 

What do you guys do to keep your fuel system clean? Here's my procedure and I hope I can improve on it with your help:

1) Diesel only from places that get high turnover. We aim for duty-free, so they're usually in high demand.
2) Outside of the US and EU, we use the Baja filter. Damn slow at only around 8liters per minute, but you gotta do what you gotta do... That said, I know of a few owners in the EU who have had diesel bug - seems more prevalent with biodiesel.

One idea to reduce filling time (900/8 = nearly two hours!!) is to use the Baja Filter to fill up our spare 20liter jerry can and then inspect the Baja filter. If all is good, just fill up the boat without the filter.

3) I use BioBor JF. I don't know if it's the best, but I found a bottle in the US that was enough to treat 10,000 liters, so that was my decision making criteria.
4) I have 10 micron Racor filters in the water separator filters. I carry 15 filters aboard.  Two micron in the Volvo, per spec.
5) Pray.

What do you all do to ensure you aren't stricken by the bug?


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

Scott SV Tengah
 

My paranoia about my Volvo D3-110 (rev c) has been kicked back into high gear. I think this applies to anyone with a diesel engine but particularly with the hyper sensitive D3-110.

I know a few A54 owners with failed D3-110 due to water ingress. We've discussed that on another thread. I'll leave that discussion there.

Recently I met a HR46 owner who had to lag behind the World ARC ($$$$!) because of diesel bug issues on his D3-110C. Another HR48 owner had the same issue and in both cases, the engine died and wouldn't start back up. His tank was disgusting, apparently. I've opened my inspection hatches and my tank is nearly pristine. But I am not going to rest on my laurels. 

What do you guys do to keep your fuel system clean? Here's my procedure and I hope I can improve on it with your help:

1) Diesel only from places that get high turnover. We aim for duty-free, so they're usually in high demand.
2) Outside of the US and EU, we use the Baja filter. Damn slow at only around 8liters per minute, but you gotta do what you gotta do... That said, I know of a few owners in the EU who have had diesel bug - seems more prevalent with biodiesel.

One idea to reduce filling time (900/8 = nearly two hours!!) is to use the Baja Filter to fill up our spare 20liter jerry can and then inspect the Baja filter. If all is good, just fill up the boat without the filter.

3) I use BioBor JF. I don't know if it's the best, but I found a bottle in the US that was enough to treat 10,000 liters, so that was my decision making criteria.
4) I have 10 micron Racor filters in the water separator filters. I carry 15 filters aboard.  Two micron in the Volvo, per spec.
5) Pray.

What do you all do to ensure you aren't stricken by the bug?


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: SM Prop Shaft Seal direction and Bushing

Scott SV Tengah
 

Mike,

I have two aft seals facing out and fore seal facing in. "facing" to me indicates which way the spring is.

I am about 650 hours on these seals and zero water ingress and zero drop in oil level. It was probably a bad installation but previously I did it "the Amel way" and had to haul out again at around 300 hours due to milky c drive oil.

PS - where are you getting the work done in NZ? We will be there in November and will be due for a haul out then.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: A54 bow thruster directly to battery or through main switches?

Scott SV Tengah
 

Our bow thruster was indeed wired through a switch, too.

I've worked with Sleipner to try to isolate the intermittent functioning problem to no avail. It runs full speed and then stops momentarily and then will start again. No slowdown to indicate drop in voltage. The Amel joystick has been cleaned and tested and shows nearly zero ohms on activation.

Every switch and thermal protection within the Sidepower thruster has been "jumpered" and it still doesn't work. I was hoping the problem was the main battery switch but I moved the positive bow thruster supply wire from the secondary side of the switch directly to the battery side. The only thing left is the motor itself but the brushes and commutator look perfect. The annoying bit is that this motor is only a year old and Sleipner wants me to ship it back to them from Panama at my cost, wait for them to test it, get warranty approval, ship it back (at my cost) and pay customs duty. I might as well buy a new motor! With a canal appointment, I clearly don't want to do this.

Anyone have any other ideas on what I should check? I haven't tested voltage at the BT during operation because I don't have alligator clips, but the fact that the BT either runs full speed or not at all, without any slowdown indicates to me that it's not an issue with enough voltage getting to the BT.


--Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: SM Prop Shaft Seal direction and Bushing

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Hi Mike,
I suspect there is nothing new on this nor any particular consensus - it may well have migrated from engineering to philosophy ;-)
If yours is fine you may want to follow the adage of, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".  Or change it and in a couple of years add to the anecdotal evidence being accumulated.
Cheers, Craig

Re: rub rail insert

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

He Steve
i am intrested by the video too
Best Elja
SM Balu
#222



Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Re: rub rail insert

Patrick McAneny
 

Steve, I would like to see the video,we are only six boats apart as I am #123. You could send it direct if you like , to sailw32@... ,or post it,others may be interested.
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Bode <Whatsup@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Feb 8, 2020 10:24 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] rub rail insert

We did this job on Intention. It was not tricky...once we did it. Two man job, 45 min.
I can send you the video.

--
Steve Bode
Capt. SV Intention
Amel SM #117 (1994)
+1 415 710-6659 Mobile/Text/WhatsApp
facebook.com/stevebodesanfrancisco
svintention.com

Re: Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

Herbert Lackner
 

Woody,  search for "alignment" in the forum and you will find a lot of information, also what kind of mounts you need

a summary with info from Olivier:
 

in order to re-align your engine with the C-drive, you need a fixed coupling as on the pictures and drawing.

You don't need to install the shaft alternator pulley while checking alignment. 

 

Before touching the tools, make pictures and take notes (measurements of all the fittings, position of the nuts on the rubber mounts, position of the engine on the steel cradle, position of the shaft brake disc, etc...).

Start with disconnecting the hoses that could prevent you from moving the engine backwards on its cradle.

Then undo the coupling bolts and the engine steel supports' bolts (attaching the engine on the steel cradle).

Then move the engine backwards enough to remove the coupling bolts.

 

Then comes the alignment process.

AMEL uses a tool which is a steel coupling machined so that its aft side "enters" the gear-box flange (see pictures and drawing). You can also pre-install the new coupling and adjust the position of the mounts.

First bring the engine forward and make sure the coupling is centered with the gear-box flange, and can enter the gap in the flange. 

Then move the engine a little bit backwards and check that the gap between the flange and the aft side of the coupler is even all around the circumference. To adjust this, you need "thickness wedges" (used in the automotive industry) and play with the rubber mounts nuts to make the gap even.

Then bring the engine forward and tighten the bolts on the cradle and on the mounts.

 

The advantage of using the tool AMEL uses is that it is easier to install while checking the gaps.

If you need to make one, here's a drawing of the alignment tool for a YANMAR 4JH3-HTE.

The inside diameter (C-drive input shaft) is 35 mm.

The outside diameter is 100 mm.

The diameter of the part that enters the gear-box flange cylindric gap is 62.8 mm, thickness 3 mm.

 

You should use a VETUS fixed coupling for 35mm shafts, then have it machined to make the 62.8mm "plug" and drilled for the four bolts that should match the flange holes.


The process is the same for Santorins or for Super Maramus.


more info from me: 
* Amel does not sell the alignment tool, I had it made by a machine shop from Aluminium
* I would change also the C-Drive mounts when you change the engine mounts.
* Make sure that the c-drive is "open" and "sits on his rubber sleeve" before you do the engine alignment.
* I used a tool like this to lift the engine https://www.expondo.at/steinberg-systems-kettenzug-2-000-kg-3-m-10030374?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw9i79ZrE5wIVFuDtCh07Aw33EAQYAiABEgKPs_D_BwE . the job can be done by one person

fair winds, herbert
SN120



Re: Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

Herbert Lackner
 

attached you find the fotos of the alignment tool with the shaft alternator.  it works, - but if I would build the tool again I would make it longer.

fair winds, herbert

Re: Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

eric freedman
 

Hi Herbert,

Being that the disk brake has a long hub on it , I believe the normal alignment tool will work. The length of the hub on the brake disk compensates for the pulley on the alternator.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Herbert Lackner
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2020 11:43 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

 

Woody,

having the Amel shaft alternator you should make the "alignment tool" longer as you have to take away the shaft alternator pulley for doing the alignment. It works if you have the tool according to the spec that you find in the forum, but if I would do it again I would add the width of the pulley to the length of the tool, would make the alignment much easier.  the process for the alignment itself is easy, in the water or on the hard, and you find all relevant information in the forum.

I had problems to get the vetus coupling of the drive-shaft, but with a hammer, a big puller and a lot of time it worked.

herbert, SN120

Re: vetus coupling removal

eric freedman
 

Hi Michelle,

Thank you for the excellent write-up of the work on your C drive. Do you happen to have a version in English?

I could not open it to cut out portions to translate.

Thanks

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of MICHELE LUCCIOLA
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2020 12:26 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] vetus coupling removal

 

Hi Herbert,
I did this job the last year....the only suggestion I can tell you is to remove the  gearbox with the  the vetus coupling installed (just dismount the fixings on the flange on the engine); in this way you can easily remove the axle on a bench because the space to work with the engine installed is very unconfortable. In fact also if you want to use an extractor (I did one with long arms) you have to pull the engine back to have a little bit of room....anyway you have to use not gentle manners to have a good results...but is better to work on a bench that in the engine compartment...in this way you can also change the  seal of the gearbox easily once removed the little shaft.
Just for your use i attach a pdf in which there is an explanation of the job....but I prefer to put the gearbox out of the boat with the shaft attached and to do the job in a confortable and safe way...
regards
Michele

An easy way to decouple the C drive.

eric freedman
 

The first photo is how I disassembled the C drive apparatus. The Disk brake hub and the C drive are exactly the same diameter—almost a pres fit.Yours is different.

 

When you have it apart take the part that connects to a machine shop and have them remove a few thousands from the inside diameter. Being that you do not have a disk brake the tool might or might not need modification. It also might be easier to disconnect the C drive from the attached mechanisms.

 

The alignment device is a copy of the more intricate one used by Amel. It was not my design. With the disk brake the bolts holding the disk to the coupling could not be removed. I cut them off and replaced them with a piece of threaded rod and nylocks to keep the assembly tight. I just check the nuts every year , so far they are as tight as installed.

If you have any more questions please do not hesitate to contact me as I Will be changing out my engine in April and will have even more info.

The PDF was from Olivier—

 

The disk is quite ugly and rusted. When I change out my engine , I am going to have one made of stainless steel.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Herbert Lackner
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2020 11:43 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

 

Woody,

having the Amel shaft alternator you should make the "alignment tool" longer as you have to take away the shaft alternator pulley for doing the alignment. It works if you have the tool according to the spec that you find in the forum, but if I would do it again I would add the width of the pulley to the length of the tool, would make the alignment much easier.  the process for the alignment itself is easy, in the water or on the hard, and you find all relevant information in the forum.

I had problems to get the vetus coupling of the drive-shaft, but with a hammer, a big puller and a lot of time it worked.

herbert, SN120

Re: Plastic part holding most spotlights &

Nicolas Klene
 


-- Hello Ross and Donna 
unfortunately the Italian company making the spotlight have stoped making this part a while back ! Sorry not to be more helpful!
Cheers 
Nick

Nicolas Klene
DarNico
SM2K # 471
In Marseille

Re: Measure

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hi Stefano,

Maybe this helps you? The tape measure is in inches.

Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
Opua, NZ

Re: New Wheel Leather

Steve Bode
 

Wait, here's a better shot.


--
Steve Bode
Capt. SV Intention
Amel SM #117 (1994)
+1 415 710-6659 Mobile/Text/WhatsApp
facebook.com/stevebodesanfrancisco
svintention.com

Re: rub rail insert

Steve Bode
 

We did this job on Intention. It was not tricky...once we did it. Two man job, 45 min.
I can send you the video.

--
Steve Bode
Capt. SV Intention
Amel SM #117 (1994)
+1 415 710-6659 Mobile/Text/WhatsApp
facebook.com/stevebodesanfrancisco
svintention.com

What fits a 40x52x7 TC shaft seal on a SM?

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hello all,
I'm going through lots of spare parts onboard...
Quick question if anyone knows what a 40x52x7 lip seal might fit on a SuperMaramu? Doesn't seem to match anything related to the bow thruster, C-drive, prop shaft, furling motors, electric winches, etc... unless I'm missing something.
Perhaps just a miscellaneous spare, bought in error, etc..

Thanks,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
Opua, NZ

Re: SM Prop Shaft Seal direction and Bushing

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hi Everyone, Craig and Jose especially,

I'm preparing to service the prop shaft wear bushing and seals. Curious how your seal orientations have worked out. Is the oil in the reservoir staying clean and constant level?

Any chance there is now consensus among the community or from Amel on this? I'm planning to follow the "Shaft Bushing and Seals Replacement" procedure posted by Eric and Gary.

Haven't had any problems with my C-Drive or the oil. I don't know when it was last serviced but at least 2.5 years, probably more(!). I'm curious to see how they are oriented when I take them out. I'm inclined to reinstall them the same way given the good performance.

Does anyone have any new data or current recommendations regarding these three seals?

Thanks,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
Opua, NZ