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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] bow roller and turn

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Kent,

I’ll double up on that advice!

Stainless steel has lots of failure modes that are simply NOT visible to any inspection until catastrophic failure occurs.  When I read about a rigger doing a visual inspection and then telling someone that their 15 year old rigging can go another 15 years my blood runs cold.  That amounts to professional malpractice.

Amel rigging is well designed, but it is made of stainless steel.  Work hardening, crevice corrosion, and other things cannot be engineered out--they are intrinsic properties of the metal.  It has a finite life, no matter what it looks like on the outside.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Reedville, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 23, 2016, at 16:34, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


I replaced all of my standing rigging at 13 years old.  I had them cut a few swages open and two of them had a lot of corrosion in the cable under the swage.  There was no visible hint that there was a problem until they were cut open.
Kent
SM243
Kristy

On Sep 23, 2016, at 3:02 PM, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Richard,

   Spraying the turnbuckle was actually one of the first things I did when I got back to Sueno but thank you for the suggestion, I think it was a good one.  The new ACMO rigging will be here in early Oct. And it is possible that the turnbuckles have not been turned in 29 years since she has the original rigging.  Amazingly neither the survey or myself have found a single crack in any of the fittings so I have been cautiously sailing the boat ahead of installing the new rigging.  

Best, 
James Alton
SV Sueno Maramu #220



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> 
Date: 9/23/16 19:09 (GMT+01:00)
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners]  bow roller and turn 

 

Hi while you are spraying put a few drops on each turn buckel. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing 
Capt Richard Piller
Newport RI 
Cell 603 767 5330

On Sep 23, 2016, at 09:37, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

   I appreciate your experienced input.  I will begin spraying the penetrating oil up into the joint between the motor housing and the tube as you suggested.  This will give me over two weeks of soaking before the boat is hauled.  I will go ahead and order a set of bearings in addition to the items listed. I will also order the Amel tool if you think it would be helpful.

  I just wanted to add that I am now really glad that I bought an Amel with the bow thruster, it is such a help with stern in Med moorings.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno #220
Sardinia, Italy





Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> 
Date: 9/23/16 14:23 (GMT+01:00)
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu bow thruster rebuild parts

 

James,

Check with Amel for:
  Prop hub and screws
  Tube seal
  Prop shaft seal
  Foam donuts (3)

That should do it for normal service...however, you may want to open it and replace the bearings.

When corrosion occurs that seizes the tube, it is almost always oxidation (rust) of the cast iron motor connection at the tube. The corrosion expands the cast iron and "clamps" the tube in place. Spraying in those holes will get some penetrating fluid where you need it and spraying upward at the joint. Use an entire stay can over 2-3 days.

Amel designed a tool which will separate the tube. It clamps onto the tube, then treaded bolts push the tube out of the corrosion-packed connection. It is pictured in the Files section. The number one tool you need is patience. 

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Sep 23, 2016 5:00 AM, "lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello,

  I need to service the bow thruster on my 46' 1987 Maramu.  Can anyone provide me a list of the normal parts to order with part numbers if possible?


   Also,  my thruster has not been serviced in a number of years and I suspect the motor shaft is stuck on the vertical drive shaft.  I removed the 4 bolts securing the composite tube and did some gentle tapping and tugging with no movement.  There is no corrosion evident between the composite tube and the motor housing since the previous owner keeper that we'll lubricated.  I was hoping that I could spray through the holes for the bolts securing the composite tube to the motor housing but I noted that on my thruster the holes only go part of the way through the composite tube.  Do the bolt holes go all of the way through the opposite tube on the SM?  If so,  is there any reason that I cou ld not drill on through one holes so that I can spray the drive shaft?  One of the holes has stripped threads so I was thinking of drilling deeper to retap the threads but I don't know how thick the tube is etc.   Any guidance here would be appreciated.


Best, 

James Alton,  SV Sueno #220.

Sardinia, Italy
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] bow roller and turn

karkauai
 

I replaced all of my standing rigging at 13 years old.  I had them cut a few swages open and two of them had a lot of corrosion in the cable under the swage.  There was no visible hint that there was a problem until they were cut open.
Kent
SM243
Kristy

On Sep 23, 2016, at 3:02 PM, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Richard,

   Spraying the turnbuckle was actually one of the first things I did when I got back to Sueno but thank you for the suggestion, I think it was a good one.  The new ACMO rigging will be here in early Oct. And it is possible that the turnbuckles have not been turned in 29 years since she has the original rigging.  Amazingly neither the survey or myself have found a single crack in any of the fittings so I have been cautiously sailing the boat ahead of installing the new rigging.  

Best, 
James Alton
SV Sueno Maramu #220



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 9/23/16 19:09 (GMT+01:00)
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners]  bow roller and turn

 

Hi while you are spraying put a few drops on each turn buckel. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing 
Capt Richard Piller
Newport RI 
Cell 603 767 5330

On Sep 23, 2016, at 09:37, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

   I appreciate your experienced input.  I will begin spraying the penetrating oil up into the joint between the motor housing and the tube as you suggested.  This will give me over two weeks of soaking before the boat is hauled.  I will go ahead and order a set of bearings in addition to the items listed. I will also order the Amel tool if you think it would be helpful.

  I just wanted to add that I am now really glad that I bought an Amel with the bow thruster, it is such a help with stern in Med moorings.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno #220
Sardinia, Italy





Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 9/23/16 14:23 (GMT+01:00)
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu bow thruster rebuild parts

 

James,

Check with Amel for:
  Prop hub and screws
  Tube seal
  Prop shaft seal
  Foam donuts (3)

That should do it for normal service...however, you may want to open it and replace the bearings.

When corrosion occurs that seizes the tube, it is almost always oxidation (rust) of the cast iron motor connection at the tube. The corrosion expands the cast iron and "clamps" the tube in place. Spraying in those holes will get some penetrating fluid where you need it and spraying upward at the joint. Use an entire stay can over 2-3 days.

Amel designed a tool which will separate the tube. It clamps onto the tube, then treaded bolts push the tube out of the corrosion-packed connection. It is pictured in the Files section. The number one tool you need is patience.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Sep 23, 2016 5:00 AM, "lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello,

  I need to service the bow thruster on my 46' 1987 Maramu.  Can anyone provide me a list of the normal parts to order with part numbers if possible?


   Also,  my thruster has not been serviced in a number of years and I suspect the motor shaft is stuck on the vertical drive shaft.  I removed the 4 bolts securing the composite tube and did some gentle tapping and tugging with no movement.  There is no corrosion evident between the composite tube and the motor housing since the previous owner keeper that we'll lubricated.  I was hoping that I could spray through the holes for the bolts securing the composite tube to the motor housing but I noted that on my thruster the holes only go part of the way through the composite tube.  Do the bolt holes go all of the way through the opposite tube on the SM?  If so,  is there any reason that I cou ld not drill on through one holes so that I can spray the drive shaft?  One of the holes has stripped threads so I was thinking of drilling deeper to retap the threads but I don't know how thick the tube is etc.   Any guidance here would be appreciated.


Best, 

James Alton,  SV Sueno #220.

Sardinia, Italy
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Jib Furler Failure.

karkauai
 

The aluminum rivets are designed to break away if something stops the foil from turning.  Stainless might cause the foil to be damaged instead...a very expensive repair.
Kent

On Sep 23, 2016, at 12:44 PM, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,
   Monel is a wonderful metal but it is a lot more noble than aluminum and can make a strong galvanic couple.  I wonder if stainless and lots of Tef-gel might be a better choice?

Best,

James Alton
Maramu #220, Sueno



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 9/23/16 17:24 (GMT+01:00)
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Jib Furler Failure.

 

I'll be back on Kristy next week.  I'm pretty sure they are 1/4" X 3/4".  I used aluminum rivets, others have recommended Monel.  There is at least one extensive thread that should be easy to find searching for "rivets". If no one answers affirmatively, I will check when I get back aboard.

Kent
SM243
Kristy

On Sep 23, 2016, at 10:10 AM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

There are many things connected to the bonding system that aren’t themselves being protected from corrosion by such a connection.  The bonding connections are not ONLY about corrosion protection by connection to the rudder zinc.


In a boat where the DC neutral and the bonding system are deliberately connected, it could serve as a return path to the battery in case of a leak from the positive side of the DC system to the case of the motor.  I confess to not really having a good understanding of the logic in connecting things like the bilge pump or the freshwater pump to the bonding circuit in an Amel.  It certainly is not to protect them from corrosion by connecting them to the rudder zinc.

By the way, does anybody know offhand the size of the rivets in the furler?

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Reedville, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 22, 2016, at 22:20, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


That makes sense, Bill.  Guess I was thinking of sea water on furler, deck, hull all interconnecting as if submerged.

So the furling motor is not bonded to the zincs?  What about the bow thruster?  If have sworn they were both connected via the yellow/green wires.

I'll be back aboard next week and look again.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 22, 2016, at 7:56 PM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Bonding would have no effect on corrosion here. The zinc that is attached to the bonding system has to be in the same “body of water” as the metals it is protecting.  In this case the “body of water” is the tiny little puddle between the stainless steel screws and the aluminum plate. It is its own little battery, and connections to the rest of the boat are immaterial. These stainless screws seem to have been the focal point for the corrosion on my piece.  

Other than disassembling the furler unit, this is an easy fix.  The plate is just a round piece of 1/4 inch aluminum with four holes in it.  If I was in a remote place, I could make it on the boat with hand tools.

While I have things apart, I am taking Kent's suggestion and finding a local powder coat shop to have everything made pretty… hopefully for much longer than paint.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Reedvile, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 22, 2016, at 17:37, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I don't know if the furler on Kristy is connected.  Sure seems like it should be...exposed to sea water, dissimilar metals.  Wonder why it wouldn't be?  Anybody else know if their furler is connected?

Kent

Kent Robertson
828-234-6819 voice/text

On Sep 22, 2016, at 5:02 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello Kent,


None of the rigging on my SM is attached to the bonding system.....

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] bow roller and turn

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

James,

The tool will help. If Amel does not have one, a quick glance at the photo and any machine shop could make it.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Sep 23, 2016 12:10 PM, "Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi while you are spraying put a few drops on each turn buckel. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing 
Capt Richard Piller
Newport RI 

On Sep 23, 2016, at 09:37, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Bill,

   I appreciate your experienced input.  I will begin spraying the penetrating oil up into the joint between the motor housing and the tube as you suggested.  This will give me over two weeks of soaking before the boat is hauled.  I will go ahead and order a set of bearings in addition to the items listed. I will also order the Amel tool if you think it would be helpful.

  I just wanted to add that I am now really glad that I bought an Amel with the bow thruster, it is such a help with stern in Med moorings.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno #220
Sardinia, Italy





Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 9/23/16 14:23 (GMT+01:00)
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu bow thruster rebuild parts

 

James,

Check with Amel for:
  Prop hub and screws
  Tube seal
  Prop shaft seal
  Foam donuts (3)

That should do it for normal service...however, you may want to open it and replace the bearings.

When corrosion occurs that seizes the tube, it is almost always oxidation (rust) of the cast iron motor connection at the tube. The corrosion expands the cast iron and "clamps" the tube in place. Spraying in those holes will get some penetrating fluid where you need it and spraying upward at the joint. Use an entire stay can over 2-3 days.

Amel designed a tool which will separate the tube. It clamps onto the tube, then treaded bolts push the tube out of the corrosion-packed connection. It is pictured in the Files section. The number one tool you need is patience.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Sep 23, 2016 5:00 AM, "lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hello,

  I need to service the bow thruster on my 46' 1987 Maramu.  Can anyone provide me a list of the normal parts to order with part numbers if possible?


   Also,  my thruster has not been serviced in a number of years and I suspect the motor shaft is stuck on the vertical drive shaft.  I removed the 4 bolts securing the composite tube and did some gentle tapping and tugging with no movement.  There is no corrosion evident between the composite tube and the motor housing since the previous owner keeper that we'll lubricated.  I was hoping that I could spray through the holes for the bolts securing the composite tube to the motor housing but I noted that on my thruster the holes only go part of the way through the composite tube.  Do the bolt holes go all of the way through the opposite tube on the SM?  If so,  is there any reason that I cou ld not drill on through one holes so that I can spray the drive shaft?  One of the holes has stripped threads so I was thinking of drilling deeper to retap the threads but I don't know how thick the tube is etc.   Any guidance here would be appreciated.


Best, 

James Alton,  SV Sueno #220.

Sardinia, Italy
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] bow roller and turn

James Alton
 

Richard,

   Spraying the turnbuckle was actually one of the first things I did when I got back to Sueno but thank you for the suggestion, I think it was a good one.  The new ACMO rigging will be here in early Oct. And it is possible that the turnbuckles have not been turned in 29 years since she has the original rigging.  Amazingly neither the survey or myself have found a single crack in any of the fittings so I have been cautiously sailing the boat ahead of installing the new rigging.  

Best, 
James Alton
SV Sueno Maramu #220



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 9/23/16 19:09 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners]  bow roller and turn

 

Hi while you are spraying put a few drops on each turn buckel. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing 
Capt Richard Piller
Newport RI 
Cell 603 767 5330

On Sep 23, 2016, at 09:37, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

   I appreciate your experienced input.  I will begin spraying the penetrating oil up into the joint between the motor housing and the tube as you suggested.  This will give me over two weeks of soaking before the boat is hauled.  I will go ahead and order a set of bearings in addition to the items listed. I will also order the Amel tool if you think it would be helpful.

  I just wanted to add that I am now really glad that I bought an Amel with the bow thruster, it is such a help with stern in Med moorings.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno #220
Sardinia, Italy





Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 9/23/16 14:23 (GMT+01:00)
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu bow thruster rebuild parts

 

James,

Check with Amel for:
  Prop hub and screws
  Tube seal
  Prop shaft seal
  Foam donuts (3)

That should do it for normal service...however, you may want to open it and replace the bearings.

When corrosion occurs that seizes the tube, it is almost always oxidation (rust) of the cast iron motor connection at the tube. The corrosion expands the cast iron and "clamps" the tube in place. Spraying in those holes will get some penetrating fluid where you need it and spraying upward at the joint. Use an entire stay can over 2-3 days.

Amel designed a tool which will separate the tube. It clamps onto the tube, then treaded bolts push the tube out of the corrosion-packed connection. It is pictured in the Files section. The number one tool you need is patience.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Sep 23, 2016 5:00 AM, "lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello,

  I need to service the bow thruster on my 46' 1987 Maramu.  Can anyone provide me a list of the normal parts to order with part numbers if possible?


   Also,  my thruster has not been serviced in a number of years and I suspect the motor shaft is stuck on the vertical drive shaft.  I removed the 4 bolts securing the composite tube and did some gentle tapping and tugging with no movement.  There is no corrosion evident between the composite tube and the motor housing since the previous owner keeper that we'll lubricated.  I was hoping that I could spray through the holes for the bolts securing the composite tube to the motor housing but I noted that on my thruster the holes only go part of the way through the composite tube.  Do the bolt holes go all of the way through the opposite tube on the SM?  If so,  is there any reason that I cou ld not drill on through one holes so that I can spray the drive shaft?  One of the holes has stripped threads so I was thinking of drilling deeper to retap the threads but I don't know how thick the tube is etc.   Any guidance here would be appreciated.


Best, 

James Alton,  SV Sueno #220.

Sardinia, Italy
Re: SM Jib Furler Failure.

greatketch@...
 

Mine came from the previous owner with monel rivets, set in tefgel.  Stainless poprivets of this size aren't often seen.  Because of stainless steel's limited ductility, setting large rivets like these requires specialized tools.

Bill Kinney
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu bow thruster rebuild parts

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon James,

Not sure you saw the illustration I did for the Bow Thruster overhaul.
It is for the Super Maramu, but I suspect there will be lots of similarities.

It is a bit long to download as there is over 70 pictures and I haven’t had time to make a smaller section:
http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_overhaul.html

On it, I forgot to show when you put back the donut on the foot of the bow thruster, but this is explained in Gary Silver’s explanation (linked as well).

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico



--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 9/23/16, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@aol.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu bow thruster rebuild parts
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, September 23, 2016, 11:37 AM


 









Bill,
   I appreciate your experienced
input.  I will begin spraying the penetrating oil up into
the joint between the motor housing and the tube as you
suggested.  This will give me over two weeks of soaking
before the boat is hauled.  I will go ahead and order a set
of bearings in addition to the items listed. I will also
order the Amel tool if you think it would be
helpful.
  I just
wanted to add that I am now really glad that I bought an
Amel with the bow thruster, it is such a help with stern in
Med moorings.
Best,
James AltonSV Sueno
#220Sardinia, Italy




Sent from Samsung
tablet.
-------- Original
message --------From: "'Bill & Judy
Rouse' yahoogroups@svbebe.com [amelyachtowners]"
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> Date:
9/23/16 14:23 (GMT+01:00) To:
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re:
[Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu bow thruster rebuild parts


 






James,
Check with Amel for:

  Prop hub and screws

  Tube seal

  Prop shaft seal

  Foam donuts (3)
That should do it for normal service...however,
you may want to open it and replace the bearings.
When corrosion occurs that seizes the tube, it
is almost always oxidation (rust) of the cast iron motor
connection at the tube. The corrosion expands the cast iron
and "clamps" the tube in place. Spraying in those
holes will get some penetrating fluid where you need it and
spraying upward at the joint. Use an entire stay can over
2-3 days.
Amel designed a tool which will separate the
tube. It clamps onto the tube, then treaded bolts push the
tube out of the corrosion-packed connection. It is pictured
in the Files section. The number one tool you need is
patience.
Bill Rouse

BeBe Amel 53 #387

Sent from my tablet

+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Sep 23, 2016 5:00 AM,
"lokiyawl2@aol.com
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:















 









Hello,  I need to
service the bow thruster on my 46' 1987 Maramu.  Can
anyone provide me a list of the normal parts to order with
part numbers if possible?
   Also,  my thruster
has not been serviced in a number of years and I suspect the
motor shaft is stuck on the vertical drive shaft.  I
removed the 4 bolts securing the composite tube and did some
gentle tapping and tugging with no movement.  There is no
corrosion evident between the composite tube and the motor
housing since the previous owner keeper that we'll
lubricated.  I was hoping that I could spray through the
holes for the bolts securing the composite tube to the motor
housing but I noted that on my thruster the holes only go
part of the way through the composite tube.  Do the bolt
holes go all of the way through the opposite tube on the
SM?  If so,  is there any reason that I cou
ld not drill on through one holes so that I can spray the
drive shaft?  One of the holes has stripped threads so I
was thinking of drilling deeper to retap the threads but I
don't know how thick the tube is etc.   Any guidance
here would be appreciated.
Best, James
Alton,  SV Sueno #220.Sardinia,
Italy





































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] bow roller and turn

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi while you are spraying put a few drops on each turn buckel. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing 
Capt Richard Piller
Newport RI 
Cell 603 767 5330

On Sep 23, 2016, at 09:37, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

   I appreciate your experienced input.  I will begin spraying the penetrating oil up into the joint between the motor housing and the tube as you suggested.  This will give me over two weeks of soaking before the boat is hauled.  I will go ahead and order a set of bearings in addition to the items listed. I will also order the Amel tool if you think it would be helpful.

  I just wanted to add that I am now really glad that I bought an Amel with the bow thruster, it is such a help with stern in Med moorings.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno #220
Sardinia, Italy





Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 9/23/16 14:23 (GMT+01:00)
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu bow thruster rebuild parts

 

James,

Check with Amel for:
  Prop hub and screws
  Tube seal
  Prop shaft seal
  Foam donuts (3)

That should do it for normal service...however, you may want to open it and replace the bearings.

When corrosion occurs that seizes the tube, it is almost always oxidation (rust) of the cast iron motor connection at the tube. The corrosion expands the cast iron and "clamps" the tube in place. Spraying in those holes will get some penetrating fluid where you need it and spraying upward at the joint. Use an entire stay can over 2-3 days.

Amel designed a tool which will separate the tube. It clamps onto the tube, then treaded bolts push the tube out of the corrosion-packed connection. It is pictured in the Files section. The number one tool you need is patience.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Sep 23, 2016 5:00 AM, "lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello,

  I need to service the bow thruster on my 46' 1987 Maramu.  Can anyone provide me a list of the normal parts to order with part numbers if possible?


   Also,  my thruster has not been serviced in a number of years and I suspect the motor shaft is stuck on the vertical drive shaft.  I removed the 4 bolts securing the composite tube and did some gentle tapping and tugging with no movement.  There is no corrosion evident between the composite tube and the motor housing since the previous owner keeper that we'll lubricated.  I was hoping that I could spray through the holes for the bolts securing the composite tube to the motor housing but I noted that on my thruster the holes only go part of the way through the composite tube.  Do the bolt holes go all of the way through the opposite tube on the SM?  If so,  is there any reason that I cou ld not drill on through one holes so that I can spray the drive shaft?  One of the holes has stripped threads so I was thinking of drilling deeper to retap the threads but I don't know how thick the tube is etc.   Any guidance here would be appreciated.


Best, 

James Alton,  SV Sueno #220.

Sardinia, Italy
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Jib Furler Failure.

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

The Aluminum Rivet are 6 mm x 18 mm.

You will need a BIG rivet gun to put them in.
That is the one I purchase.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00061SFDM/

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico



--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 9/23/16, Bill Kinney greatketch@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Jib Furler Failure.
To: "James Wendell ms42phantom54@yahoo.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Friday, September 23, 2016, 9:10 AM


 









There are many things connected to the bonding
system that aren’t themselves being protected from
corrosion by such a connection.  The bonding connections
are not ONLY about corrosion protection by connection to the
rudder zinc.
In a boat where the DC neutral
and the bonding system are deliberately connected, it could
serve as a return path to the battery in case of a leak from
the positive side of the DC system to the case of the motor.
 I confess to not really having a good understanding of the
logic in connecting things like the bilge pump or the
freshwater pump to the bonding circuit in an Amel.  It
certainly is not to protect them from corrosion by
connecting them to the rudder zinc.
By the way, does anybody know
offhand the size of the rivets in the furler?

Bill KinneySM #160, HarmonieReedville, VA, Chesapeake Bay,
USA“Ships and men
rot in port."http://fetchinketch.net






On Sep 22, 2016, at 22:20, Kent
Robertson karkauai@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:

That makes sense, Bill.  Guess I
was thinking of sea water on furler, deck, hull all
interconnecting as if submerged.
So the furling motor is not
bonded to the zincs?  What about the bow thruster?  If
have sworn they were both connected via the yellow/green
wires.
I'll be back aboard next week
and look again.
KentSM 243Kristy
On Sep 22, 2016, at 7:56 PM, Bill
Kinney greatketch@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:

 
Kent,
Bonding would have no effect on
corrosion here. The zinc that is attached to the bonding
system has to be in the same “body of water” as the
metals it is protecting.  In this case the “body of
water” is the tiny little puddle between the stainless
steel screws and the aluminum plate. It is its own little
battery, and connections to the rest of the boat are
immaterial. These stainless screws seem to have been the
focal point for the corrosion on my piece.  
Other than disassembling the
furler unit, this is an easy fix.  The plate is just a
round piece of 1/4 inch aluminum with four holes in it.  If
I was in a remote place, I could make it on the boat with
hand tools.
While I have things apart, I am
taking Kent's suggestion and finding a local powder coat
shop to have everything made pretty… hopefully for much
longer than paint.
Bill KinneySM #160, HarmonieReedvile, VA, Chesapeake Bay,
USA“Ships and men
rot in port."http://fetchinketch.net




On Sep 22, 2016,
at 17:37, Kent Robertson karkauai@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:
 
I don't know if the furler on
Kristy is connected.  Sure seems like it should
be...exposed to sea water, dissimilar metals.  Wonder why
it wouldn't be?  Anybody else know if their furler is
connected?
Kent

Kent Robertsonkarkauai@yahoo.com828-234-6819
voice/text
On Sep 22, 2016, at
5:02 PM, divanz620@yahoo.fr [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:

 Hello Kent,
None of the rigging on my SM is
attached to the bonding system.....
CheersAlanElyse SM437















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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bonding

SV Perigee
 

Greets all,

Regarding the zinc on the prop, I've seen it mentioned that this is unnecessary due to the AMEL-style bonding system, with everything bonded to everything else.  However, as I currently understand it, the reason for the zinc on the prop, is because with a stainless prop shaft attached to the dissimilar bronze of the prop, and because this is underwater, this creates a galvanic couple.  So, to minimise the potential effects of this galvanic couple, it is best to place a zinc as close as possible to that underwater connection.   And also, minimise the opportunity for adverse effects should there be a failure, or deterioration, in the bonding circuit between shaft -to- transmission -to- bonding-circuit -to- rudder-post -to- rudder-zincs connections.

Happy to be corrected.  However, in the interim, I personally would be placing a zinc on the prop/shaft to take all possible steps to minimise the potential for galvanic corrosion of the shaft or the prop.

Best,

David
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Jib Furler Failure.

James Alton
 

Kent,
   Monel is a wonderful metal but it is a lot more noble than aluminum and can make a strong galvanic couple.  I wonder if stainless and lots of Tef-gel might be a better choice?

Best,

James Alton
Maramu #220, Sueno



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 9/23/16 17:24 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Jib Furler Failure.

 

I'll be back on Kristy next week.  I'm pretty sure they are 1/4" X 3/4".  I used aluminum rivets, others have recommended Monel.  There is at least one extensive thread that should be easy to find searching for "rivets". If no one answers affirmatively, I will check when I get back aboard.

Kent
SM243
Kristy

On Sep 23, 2016, at 10:10 AM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

There are many things connected to the bonding system that aren’t themselves being protected from corrosion by such a connection.  The bonding connections are not ONLY about corrosion protection by connection to the rudder zinc.


In a boat where the DC neutral and the bonding system are deliberately connected, it could serve as a return path to the battery in case of a leak from the positive side of the DC system to the case of the motor.  I confess to not really having a good understanding of the logic in connecting things like the bilge pump or the freshwater pump to the bonding circuit in an Amel.  It certainly is not to protect them from corrosion by connecting them to the rudder zinc.

By the way, does anybody know offhand the size of the rivets in the furler?

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Reedville, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 22, 2016, at 22:20, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


That makes sense, Bill.  Guess I was thinking of sea water on furler, deck, hull all interconnecting as if submerged.

So the furling motor is not bonded to the zincs?  What about the bow thruster?  If have sworn they were both connected via the yellow/green wires.

I'll be back aboard next week and look again.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 22, 2016, at 7:56 PM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Bonding would have no effect on corrosion here. The zinc that is attached to the bonding system has to be in the same “body of water” as the metals it is protecting.  In this case the “body of water” is the tiny little puddle between the stainless steel screws and the aluminum plate. It is its own little battery, and connections to the rest of the boat are immaterial. These stainless screws seem to have been the focal point for the corrosion on my piece.  

Other than disassembling the furler unit, this is an easy fix.  The plate is just a round piece of 1/4 inch aluminum with four holes in it.  If I was in a remote place, I could make it on the boat with hand tools.

While I have things apart, I am taking Kent's suggestion and finding a local powder coat shop to have everything made pretty… hopefully for much longer than paint.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Reedvile, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 22, 2016, at 17:37, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I don't know if the furler on Kristy is connected.  Sure seems like it should be...exposed to sea water, dissimilar metals.  Wonder why it wouldn't be?  Anybody else know if their furler is connected?

Kent

Kent Robertson
828-234-6819 voice/text

On Sep 22, 2016, at 5:02 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello Kent,


None of the rigging on my SM is attached to the bonding system.....

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu bow thruster rebuild parts

James Alton
 

Bill,

   I appreciate your experienced input.  I will begin spraying the penetrating oil up into the joint between the motor housing and the tube as you suggested.  This will give me over two weeks of soaking before the boat is hauled.  I will go ahead and order a set of bearings in addition to the items listed. I will also order the Amel tool if you think it would be helpful.

  I just wanted to add that I am now really glad that I bought an Amel with the bow thruster, it is such a help with stern in Med moorings.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno #220
Sardinia, Italy





Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 9/23/16 14:23 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu bow thruster rebuild parts

 

James,

Check with Amel for:
  Prop hub and screws
  Tube seal
  Prop shaft seal
  Foam donuts (3)

That should do it for normal service...however, you may want to open it and replace the bearings.

When corrosion occurs that seizes the tube, it is almost always oxidation (rust) of the cast iron motor connection at the tube. The corrosion expands the cast iron and "clamps" the tube in place. Spraying in those holes will get some penetrating fluid where you need it and spraying upward at the joint. Use an entire stay can over 2-3 days.

Amel designed a tool which will separate the tube. It clamps onto the tube, then treaded bolts push the tube out of the corrosion-packed connection. It is pictured in the Files section. The number one tool you need is patience.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Sep 23, 2016 5:00 AM, "lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello,

  I need to service the bow thruster on my 46' 1987 Maramu.  Can anyone provide me a list of the normal parts to order with part numbers if possible?


   Also,  my thruster has not been serviced in a number of years and I suspect the motor shaft is stuck on the vertical drive shaft.  I removed the 4 bolts securing the composite tube and did some gentle tapping and tugging with no movement.  There is no corrosion evident between the composite tube and the motor housing since the previous owner keeper that we'll lubricated.  I was hoping that I could spray through the holes for the bolts securing the composite tube to the motor housing but I noted that on my thruster the holes only go part of the way through the composite tube.  Do the bolt holes go all of the way through the opposite tube on the SM?  If so,  is there any reason that I cou ld not drill on through one holes so that I can spray the drive shaft?  One of the holes has stripped threads so I was thinking of drilling deeper to retap the threads but I don't know how thick the tube is etc.   Any guidance here would be appreciated.


Best, 

James Alton,  SV Sueno #220.

Sardinia, Italy
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Jib Furler Failure.

karkauai
 

I'll be back on Kristy next week.  I'm pretty sure they are 1/4" X 3/4".  I used aluminum rivets, others have recommended Monel.  There is at least one extensive thread that should be easy to find searching for "rivets". If no one answers affirmatively, I will check when I get back aboard.

Kent
SM243
Kristy

On Sep 23, 2016, at 10:10 AM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

There are many things connected to the bonding system that aren’t themselves being protected from corrosion by such a connection.  The bonding connections are not ONLY about corrosion protection by connection to the rudder zinc.


In a boat where the DC neutral and the bonding system are deliberately connected, it could serve as a return path to the battery in case of a leak from the positive side of the DC system to the case of the motor.  I confess to not really having a good understanding of the logic in connecting things like the bilge pump or the freshwater pump to the bonding circuit in an Amel.  It certainly is not to protect them from corrosion by connecting them to the rudder zinc.

By the way, does anybody know offhand the size of the rivets in the furler?

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Reedville, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 22, 2016, at 22:20, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


That makes sense, Bill.  Guess I was thinking of sea water on furler, deck, hull all interconnecting as if submerged.

So the furling motor is not bonded to the zincs?  What about the bow thruster?  If have sworn they were both connected via the yellow/green wires.

I'll be back aboard next week and look again.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 22, 2016, at 7:56 PM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Bonding would have no effect on corrosion here. The zinc that is attached to the bonding system has to be in the same “body of water” as the metals it is protecting.  In this case the “body of water” is the tiny little puddle between the stainless steel screws and the aluminum plate. It is its own little battery, and connections to the rest of the boat are immaterial. These stainless screws seem to have been the focal point for the corrosion on my piece.  

Other than disassembling the furler unit, this is an easy fix.  The plate is just a round piece of 1/4 inch aluminum with four holes in it.  If I was in a remote place, I could make it on the boat with hand tools.

While I have things apart, I am taking Kent's suggestion and finding a local powder coat shop to have everything made pretty… hopefully for much longer than paint.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Reedvile, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 22, 2016, at 17:37, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I don't know if the furler on Kristy is connected.  Sure seems like it should be...exposed to sea water, dissimilar metals.  Wonder why it wouldn't be?  Anybody else know if their furler is connected?

Kent

Kent Robertson
828-234-6819 voice/text

On Sep 22, 2016, at 5:02 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello Kent,


None of the rigging on my SM is attached to the bonding system.....

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bonding

karkauai
 

When everything is connected and working as designed, I am sure that no prop zinc is required.  However, when connections are loose/corroded and/or failures of equipment occur, severe damage can occur.  My prop shaft was damaged severely by electrolytic corrosion due to a combination of misconnections of the bonding system and a fault in a charger/inverter.  I will continue to use a prop zinc as long as I own my boat.

Kent
SM243
Kristy

Kent Robertson
828-234-6819 voice/text

On Sep 23, 2016, at 10:44 AM, David Vogel dbv_au@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Greets all,

Regarding the zinc on the prop, I've seen it mentioned that this is unnecessary due to the AMEL-style bonding system, with everything bonded to everything else.  However, as I currently understand it, the reason for the zinc on the prop, is because with a stainless prop shaft attached to the dissimilar bronze of the prop, and because this is underwater, this creates a galvanic couple.  So, to minimise the potential effects of this galvanic couple, it is best to place a zinc as close as possible to that underwater connection.   And also, minimise the opportunity for adverse effects should there be a failure, or deterioration, in the bonding circuit between shaft -to- transmission -to- bonding-circuit -to- rudder-post -to- rudder-zincs connections.

Happy to be corrected.  However, in the interim, I personally would be placing a zinc on the prop/shaft to take all possible steps to minimise the potential for galvanic corrosion of the shaft or the prop.

Best,

David
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AC Panel Green Light

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Joe ( I am guessing , since you don't give your name ) , 
I am about to have a new bulb fitted by Amel in Hyeres   , so I'm sure they would sell you one . 

Ian and Judy , Pen Azen , SM 302 Hyeres


On 23 Sep 2016, at 16:27, joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Has anyone had the AC panel green light fail?  Mine failed -  lots of Power from genset or shore but no light.  I assume it is small 220v AC bulb.  Can anyone recommend a source ?
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bonding

SV Perigee
 

Greets all,

Regarding the zinc on the prop, I've seen it mentioned that this is unnecessary due to the AMEL-style bonding system, with everything bonded to everything else.  However, as I currently understand it, the reason for the zinc on the prop, is because with a stainless prop shaft attached to the dissimilar bronze of the prop, and because this is underwater, this creates a galvanic couple.  So, to minimise the potential effects of this galvanic couple, it is best to place a zinc as close as possible to that underwater connection.   And also, minimise the opportunity for adverse effects should there be a failure, or deterioration, in the bonding circuit between shaft -to- transmission -to- bonding-circuit -to- rudder-post -to- rudder-zincs connections.

Happy to be corrected.  However, in the interim, I personally would be placing a zinc on the prop/shaft to take all possible steps to minimise the potential for galvanic corrosion of the shaft or the prop.

Best,

David
AC Panel Green Light

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

Has anyone had the AC panel green light fail?  Mine failed -  lots of Power from genset or shore but no light.  I assume it is small 220v AC bulb.  Can anyone recommend a source ?
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Jib Furler Failure.

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

There are many things connected to the bonding system that aren’t themselves being protected from corrosion by such a connection.  The bonding connections are not ONLY about corrosion protection by connection to the rudder zinc.

In a boat where the DC neutral and the bonding system are deliberately connected, it could serve as a return path to the battery in case of a leak from the positive side of the DC system to the case of the motor.  I confess to not really having a good understanding of the logic in connecting things like the bilge pump or the freshwater pump to the bonding circuit in an Amel.  It certainly is not to protect them from corrosion by connecting them to the rudder zinc.

By the way, does anybody know offhand the size of the rivets in the furler?

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Reedville, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 22, 2016, at 22:20, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


That makes sense, Bill.  Guess I was thinking of sea water on furler, deck, hull all interconnecting as if submerged.

So the furling motor is not bonded to the zincs?  What about the bow thruster?  If have sworn they were both connected via the yellow/green wires.

I'll be back aboard next week and look again.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 22, 2016, at 7:56 PM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Bonding would have no effect on corrosion here. The zinc that is attached to the bonding system has to be in the same “body of water” as the metals it is protecting.  In this case the “body of water” is the tiny little puddle between the stainless steel screws and the aluminum plate. It is its own little battery, and connections to the rest of the boat are immaterial. These stainless screws seem to have been the focal point for the corrosion on my piece.  

Other than disassembling the furler unit, this is an easy fix.  The plate is just a round piece of 1/4 inch aluminum with four holes in it.  If I was in a remote place, I could make it on the boat with hand tools.

While I have things apart, I am taking Kent's suggestion and finding a local powder coat shop to have everything made pretty… hopefully for much longer than paint.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Reedvile, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 22, 2016, at 17:37, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I don't know if the furler on Kristy is connected.  Sure seems like it should be...exposed to sea water, dissimilar metals.  Wonder why it wouldn't be?  Anybody else know if their furler is connected?

Kent

Kent Robertson
828-234-6819 voice/text

On Sep 22, 2016, at 5:02 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello Kent,


None of the rigging on my SM is attached to the bonding system.....

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu bow thruster rebuild parts

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

James,

Check with Amel for:
  Prop hub and screws
  Tube seal
  Prop shaft seal
  Foam donuts (3)

That should do it for normal service...however, you may want to open it and replace the bearings.

When corrosion occurs that seizes the tube, it is almost always oxidation (rust) of the cast iron motor connection at the tube. The corrosion expands the cast iron and "clamps" the tube in place. Spraying in those holes will get some penetrating fluid where you need it and spraying upward at the joint. Use an entire stay can over 2-3 days.

Amel designed a tool which will separate the tube. It clamps onto the tube, then treaded bolts push the tube out of the corrosion-packed connection. It is pictured in the Files section. The number one tool you need is patience.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Sep 23, 2016 5:00 AM, "lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello,

  I need to service the bow thruster on my 46' 1987 Maramu.  Can anyone provide me a list of the normal parts to order with part numbers if possible?


   Also,  my thruster has not been serviced in a number of years and I suspect the motor shaft is stuck on the vertical drive shaft.  I removed the 4 bolts securing the composite tube and did some gentle tapping and tugging with no movement.  There is no corrosion evident between the composite tube and the motor housing since the previous owner keeper that we'll lubricated.  I was hoping that I could spray through the holes for the bolts securing the composite tube to the motor housing but I noted that on my thruster the holes only go part of the way through the composite tube.  Do the bolt holes go all of the way through the opposite tube on the SM?  If so,  is there any reason that I cou ld not drill on through one holes so that I can spray the drive shaft?  One of the holes has stripped threads so I was thinking of drilling deeper to retap the threads but I don't know how thick the tube is etc.   Any guidance here would be appreciated.


Best, 

James Alton,  SV Sueno #220.

Sardinia, Italy
Maramu bow thruster rebuild parts

James Alton
 

Hello,

  I need to service the bow thruster on my 46' 1987 Maramu.  Can anyone provide me a list of the normal parts to order with part numbers if possible?


   Also,  my thruster has not been serviced in a number of years and I suspect the motor shaft is stuck on the vertical drive shaft.  I removed the 4 bolts securing the composite tube and did some gentle tapping and tugging with no movement.  There is no corrosion evident between the composite tube and the motor housing since the previous owner keeper that we'll lubricated.  I was hoping that I could spray through the holes for the bolts securing the composite tube to the motor housing but I noted that on my thruster the holes only go part of the way through the composite tube.  Do the bolt holes go all of the way through the opposite tube on the SM?  If so,  is there any reason that I could not drill on through one holes so that I can spray the drive shaft?  One of the holes has stripped threads so I was thinking of drilling deeper to retap the threads but I don't know how thick the tube is etc.   Any guidance here would be appreciated.


Best, 

James Alton,  SV Sueno #220.

Sardinia, Italy
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