Date   
Re: More Options for Rub Rail Inserts

Karen Smith
 

Eventually, UV exposure takes its toll. The surface finish can be restored in any number of ways, but eventually, the thin edges of the rubber begin to crumble. At that point it is only a matter of time before things go further and the rubber fails.

If your insert is in good shape, a regular application of 303 will help keep the UV at bay. Ours is old enough that the thin edges have become brittle and started to crack, there isn't anything that will bring that back. 

Re: Bottom paint removal problem

Patrick McAneny
 

Brent , I read all the articles and signed up for Practical sailor. I think I will buy a gallon of Peel Away and do a test on a section of the hull.
Thanks for sending the links,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Brent Cameron <brentcameron61@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Mar 5, 2020 7:01 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bottom paint removal problem

On my previous boat I used Peel Away to good effect to take off a few decades of bottom paint and get down to the gelcoat so I could strip it off and put on my barrier coat (Interprotect 2000 epoxy) and then again when I used it a few years later to get rid of the bottom paint as I was switching to a much more friendly to repaint solution that would only stick to my barrier coat.  It sits for a bit and then fairly easily scrapes off using a scraper and a putty knife.  It is temperature dependant (6 hours on a hot day and the whole day on cooler ones) and didn’t seem to hurt the gelcoat at all (or my Interprotect 2000 epoxy barrier coat) as long as it isn’t left on too long (more than 24 hours).  You do have to cover them (they sell a paper backing although I couldn’t get it so used a very cheap plastic painters sheet available at Home Depot) to slow down evaporation to give it more time to work and prevent it from drying out (which makes it tough to get off without starting over again).  As Miles says there are a couple of good articles on Practical Sailor (including one that came out just today).  Here are the links:
 
And a couple from a few years ago:
And
And

Brent Cameron, Future Amel owner & Amel Owner's Registry Moderator

--
Brent Cameron
Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator
Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada

Re: Bottom paint removal problem

Patrick McAneny
 

Miles, I may do that. We passed you last winter/spring as we were leaving Martinique heading north and you were arriving. You were about 1/2 mile further out. Then this summer we were anchored next to you for a couple of days in Newport. Sorry we missed you, twice.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Miles <milesbid@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Mar 5, 2020 6:20 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bottom paint removal problem

Hi Pat,
 
As I said in a previous note, I don’t remember what I used either, but I do remember looking it up in Practical Sailor.  I think it might be worth subscribing, if you don’t, just to look at their test results.  The different products varied a great deal in both cost and in quality and in toxicity.  
I hired a crew to do mine and I think that it took 3 applications and lots of scraping.  It was over 10 years accumulation.   I remember Practical Sailor talked about some products that were less toxic but took longer. 
As in many cases, there was no or little correlation between quality of product and price of product.
 
Regards,
 
Miles,  s/y Ladybug, Le Marin, Martinique

Re: Bottom paint removal problem

Brent Cameron
 

On my previous boat I used Peel Away to good effect to take off a few decades of bottom paint and get down to the gelcoat so I could strip it off and put on my barrier coat (Interprotect 2000 epoxy) and then again when I used it a few years later to get rid of the bottom paint as I was switching to a much more friendly to repaint solution that would only stick to my barrier coat.  It sits for a bit and then fairly easily scrapes off using a scraper and a putty knife.  It is temperature dependant (6 hours on a hot day and the whole day on cooler ones) and didn’t seem to hurt the gelcoat at all (or my Interprotect 2000 epoxy barrier coat) as long as it isn’t left on too long (more than 24 hours).  You do have to cover them (they sell a paper backing although I couldn’t get it so used a very cheap plastic painters sheet available at Home Depot) to slow down evaporation to give it more time to work and prevent it from drying out (which makes it tough to get off without starting over again).  As Miles says there are a couple of good articles on Practical Sailor (including one that came out just today).  Here are the links:
 
And a couple from a few years ago:
And
And

Brent Cameron, Future Amel owner & Amel Owner's Registry Moderator

--
Brent Cameron

Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator

Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada

Re: Strainer air lock

Patrick McAneny
 

Ryan, I will keep that in mind ,if / when it happens again. Problem is there is no way to check it until I am in strong enough conditions to be heeled 20 degrees or so to port. I agree that it does not seem that what I did ,taking out the anti siphon valve would create a condition ,where I would lose water out of the strainer. But that was the only thing I had done or changed. A small amount of water spits out occasionally, and I am pumping water since the engine is not overheating. I just think that the water level does not fill the elbow to the top . Do you have that set up,if so where does the hose connect to the cooling system.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Meador <ryan.d.meador@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Mar 5, 2020 5:11 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Strainer air lock

We've experienced something like this.  For us, the problem was air leaking into the low pressure (suction) side of the system, not the high pressure side.  The gasket on the raw water strainer was not sealing well.  We fixed it by greasing it well with silicone grease and tightening it down.  Really we probably need to replace the gasket (add it to the todo list).  The problem seems to get worse when the inflow is restricted, so you might want to check the strainer and thru-hull for barnacles and that sort of thing.

I doubt the hose you added to the anti-siphon valve is the cause.  Your description of what you did is almost exactly what the Amel setup is.  If water isn't flowing out, it's probably because water isn't flowing through your engine.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Tue, Mar 3, 2020 at 7:38 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Sailing back from Bermuda last spring , my engine would shut down and I discovered that there was no water in my strainer ,thus the engine had no water and shut down. We were sailing in only moderate to strong conditions ,but never heeled beyond 20 degrees. When I opened the strainer lid water would flow to the top, and I could motor once again. This same thing happened repeatedly ,and had never happened prior to this trip. I made a change to the cooling system in Bermuda, and I want to know if this may have caused this air lock .
Upon starting any boat engine, I have always checked the exhaust for water flow. However on my Amel the exhaust is at water level making it impossible to see if cooling water is flowing. When a couple of owners a while back posted that they had a small hose streaming cooling water into the cockpit confirming flow, I wished I had that set up,Amel must of added this feature to newer models.
So in Bermuda I took off the anti siphon valve off the loop at the top of the hose from the heat exchanger to the exhaust elbow. In place of the valve I ran a small hose to my cockpit scupper to show me water flow. It worked only marginally well ,I surmise most of the water flow never rises to the top of the loop. I figured it still served as a siphon break as it is open to the atmosphere . My question is ,could this have allowed all the water to flow back out of the engine and strainer while heeled over and create an air lock ? Secondly has anyone have a photo of how this system is installed ,I would like to replicate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

Re: Bottom paint removal problem

Miles
 

Hi Pat,

 

As I said in a previous note, I don’t remember what I used either, but I do remember looking it up in Practical Sailor.  I think it might be worth subscribing, if you don’t, just to look at their test results.  The different products varied a great deal in both cost and in quality and in toxicity.  

I hired a crew to do mine and I think that it took 3 applications and lots of scraping.  It was over 10 years accumulation.   I remember Practical Sailor talked about some products that were less toxic but took longer. 

As in many cases, there was no or little correlation between quality of product and price of product.

 

Regards,

 

Miles,  s/y Ladybug, Le Marin, Martinique

Re: Strainer air lock

Ryan Meador
 

We've experienced something like this.  For us, the problem was air leaking into the low pressure (suction) side of the system, not the high pressure side.  The gasket on the raw water strainer was not sealing well.  We fixed it by greasing it well with silicone grease and tightening it down.  Really we probably need to replace the gasket (add it to the todo list).  The problem seems to get worse when the inflow is restricted, so you might want to check the strainer and thru-hull for barnacles and that sort of thing.

I doubt the hose you added to the anti-siphon valve is the cause.  Your description of what you did is almost exactly what the Amel setup is.  If water isn't flowing out, it's probably because water isn't flowing through your engine.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Tue, Mar 3, 2020 at 7:38 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Sailing back from Bermuda last spring , my engine would shut down and I discovered that there was no water in my strainer ,thus the engine had no water and shut down. We were sailing in only moderate to strong conditions ,but never heeled beyond 20 degrees. When I opened the strainer lid water would flow to the top, and I could motor once again. This same thing happened repeatedly ,and had never happened prior to this trip. I made a change to the cooling system in Bermuda, and I want to know if this may have caused this air lock .
Upon starting any boat engine, I have always checked the exhaust for water flow. However on my Amel the exhaust is at water level making it impossible to see if cooling water is flowing. When a couple of owners a while back posted that they had a small hose streaming cooling water into the cockpit confirming flow, I wished I had that set up,Amel must of added this feature to newer models.
So in Bermuda I took off the anti siphon valve off the loop at the top of the hose from the heat exchanger to the exhaust elbow. In place of the valve I ran a small hose to my cockpit scupper to show me water flow. It worked only marginally well ,I surmise most of the water flow never rises to the top of the loop. I figured it still served as a siphon break as it is open to the atmosphere . My question is ,could this have allowed all the water to flow back out of the engine and strainer while heeled over and create an air lock ? Secondly has anyone have a photo of how this system is installed ,I would like to replicate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

Bottom paint removal problem

eric freedman
 

Hi Pat,

Sorry I could not find the paint stripper I used.

West marine has some products but they seem expensive. You might need 10 gallons.

My local paint supply says there a number of products that will work . However, when you get close to the

gel coat you should not let it sit on the hull too long.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

Hi Pat,

I do not remember the name. I will try to get the name for you tomorrow.

It took 2 yard workers 4 days to strip and sand.

It is best applied in a warm environment as it is a chemical reaction.

I did mine in July. They used cheap brushes and scrapers for the majority of the work and then putty knives when they got close to the gel coat. It takes multiple applications and waiting time for this stripper to work.

They then used a sander to complete the job. It wasn’t difficult just time consuming.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2020 6:30 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bottom paint removal problem

 

Eric, I need to remove 20 some years of paint. Do you remember the name of the product you bought from Home Depot ? Was it meant to be used on fiberglass? Have any idea as to the man hours to strip your boat. Thinking I may hire a helper or two and tackle it myself.

Thanks,

Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>; Mark Pitt <mark_pitt@...>
Sent: Wed, Feb 26, 2020 12:06 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bottom paint removal problem

Hi Mark,
After 16 years I had the bottom of Kimberlite cleaned down to the gelcoat. I did not want to use any form of blasting. I had the yard use a chemical stripper available at Home depot to remove paint down to the gelcoat. It took time and multiple applications but it worked and the bottom came up quite clean. I think the paint we removed weighed somewhere between 3 and 400 pounds and it was ablative paint..
I then had the yard apply 4 coats of interprotect . They then applied a hard epoxy blue paint and then 2 coats of black ablative paint. worked great . We hauled this year after 2 years and the bottom was beautiful. I would suggest using the chemical stripper when it is warm as it is a chemical process.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite

On February 25, 2020 at 2:28 PM Mark Pitt <mark_pitt@...> wrote:

I have owned my Super Maramu since she was launched in 2003.  Amel applied a hard bottom paint before launch in 2003 but since then I have only used ablative paint.  The layer is now thick and a bit uneven.  Having carefully examined the words of caution on the Amel owners group, particularly those of Joel Potter, I have looked in vain for a soda blaster to remove all the old bottom paint. I just cannot find one in Rhode Island.  The contractor recommended by my Rhode Island marina uses glass and is apparently very experienced with blasting boat bottoms. 

Last week I contacted the large Hinckley repair yard in Portsmouth, RI and it turns out that they do not have access to soda blasting either and use the same glass blasting contractor used by the full service marina where Sabbatical III is stored.  Hinckley recommends the glass blasting followed by 5 coats of epoxy (the 5 coats is their rule for European boats).  My yard has suggested 3 coats of epoxy as a water barrier.

I had been hoping for soda blasting plus a single coat of epoxy as a primer, on the assumption that the barrier coat under the gel coat would remain intact.  I did not expect that it would not be possible to find a soda blasting contractor in Rhode Island (or nearby Massachusetts) who works on boat hulls.

 

Any suggestions for me?  I feel stuck and am inclined to use glass blasting following by 3 or more coats of epoxy as a barrier coat.

 

Mark Pitt

“Sabbatical III”, SM#419, Wickford, Rhode Island, USA

 


 

Re: through hull forard head

Wolfgang Weber
 

The opening on the deck is just vertical over the valve and outlet.
Try with a wooden or plastic stick to reach the valve. Its probably blocked inside.
Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162




Re: tb/custom broker BRISBANE/COOMERA QLD AUSTRALIA/AYOGF

seagasm
 

Sorry, but I do not understand why you are having problems importing goods into Australia. Ask the supplier to mark the invoice "YACHT IN TRANSIT", include the shipment with the price and you will receive your goods on your door step. The largest order I have placed was for a Main and Genoa which arrived at the Marina Office when I was in Brisbane. I did not have any issues with importing or Customs, in fact, I never saw them.

Best Regards,
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 171

Re: through hull forard head

Ian Park
 

I just love when the heads stop working.  Not sure if it’s good to have two of them to look after, but at least it keeps the bucket clean !
Ian


On 5 Mar 2020, at 19:35, Randall <sailingalbedo@...> wrote:


Ian,
That hose has been heat treated over 13 yrs its hard as rock and I will have to do a pump out and flush as best I can as there is a 40 litre black water tank, nasty.
The handle moves fine and the shaft inside seems to move also. So either something is in the tank, or the ball is no longer attached to the handle.
Ah the joy of boating. Nothing cheap, nothing easy.

Cheers,
Randall

On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 6:58 PM Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:
Suggest putting in off position. Remove hose. Then gently turn on. If water flows something may be blocking the hose. 
Saves diving under boat as a first option. 

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


On 5 Mar 2020, at 17:59, Randall Walker <sailingalbedo@...> wrote:

Has anyone had a 90 degree shut off valve fail to turn. The handle turns but nothing flows. I hope I have a clog/blockage near the shutoff. But it may be the pin from the handle to the ball have separated. for now I will just do pump outs, but was wondering if this has happened to anyone else. I don't know how anything could plug this but you never know what is in there.
Randall
A54 #56

Re: through hull forard head

Randall
 

Dave,
So your handle is seized solid I take it? unscrewing it from the through hull pipe seems to be a challenging task. Little space and lovely odour. I am hoping for a foreign object plugging the 90 valve. fingers crossed.
Randall

On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 7:45 PM David Kurtz via Groups.Io <Davidwkurtz=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have the same issue with my forward head.  That valve is a mother once it gets stuck.  I had my nephew on board and he has arms like tree trunks.  Could not break it loose, even with a longer breaker bar.  Only option left is a new $100 valve.  And now I exercise those through-hulls regularly!
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan

Re: through hull forard head

Randall
 

Thanks Courtney,
That will be my next test.

Randall

On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 7:38 PM Courtney Gorman via Groups.Io <Itsfun1=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Randall
Before you go to all the trouble of pumping out why not try and run a snake from the through hull back up would be an easy fix if it is just plugged


-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <sailingalbedo@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Mar 5, 2020 1:35 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] through hull forard head

Ian,
That hose has been heat treated over 13 yrs its hard as rock and I will have to do a pump out and flush as best I can as there is a 40 litre black water tank, nasty.
The handle moves fine and the shaft inside seems to move also. So either something is in the tank, or the ball is no longer attached to the handle.
Ah the joy of boating. Nothing cheap, nothing easy.

Cheers,
Randall

On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 6:58 PM Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:
Suggest putting in off position. Remove hose. Then gently turn on. If water flows something may be blocking the hose. 
Saves diving under boat as a first option. 

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


On 5 Mar 2020, at 17:59, Randall Walker <sailingalbedo@...> wrote:

Has anyone had a 90 degree shut off valve fail to turn. The handle turns but nothing flows. I hope I have a clog/blockage near the shutoff. But it may be the pin from the handle to the ball have separated. for now I will just do pump outs, but was wondering if this has happened to anyone else. I don't know how anything could plug this but you never know what is in there.
Randall
A54 #56

Re: through hull forard head

David Kurtz
 

I have the same issue with my forward head.  That valve is a mother once it gets stuck.  I had my nephew on board and he has arms like tree trunks.  Could not break it loose, even with a longer breaker bar.  Only option left is a new $100 valve.  And now I exercise those through-hulls regularly!
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan

Re: through hull forard head

Courtney Gorman
 

Randall
Before you go to all the trouble of pumping out why not try and run a snake from the through hull back up would be an easy fix if it is just plugged


-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <sailingalbedo@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Mar 5, 2020 1:35 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] through hull forard head

Ian,
That hose has been heat treated over 13 yrs its hard as rock and I will have to do a pump out and flush as best I can as there is a 40 litre black water tank, nasty.
The handle moves fine and the shaft inside seems to move also. So either something is in the tank, or the ball is no longer attached to the handle.
Ah the joy of boating. Nothing cheap, nothing easy.

Cheers,
Randall

On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 6:58 PM Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:
Suggest putting in off position. Remove hose. Then gently turn on. If water flows something may be blocking the hose. 
Saves diving under boat as a first option. 

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


On 5 Mar 2020, at 17:59, Randall Walker <sailingalbedo@...> wrote:

Has anyone had a 90 degree shut off valve fail to turn. The handle turns but nothing flows. I hope I have a clog/blockage near the shutoff. But it may be the pin from the handle to the ball have separated. for now I will just do pump outs, but was wondering if this has happened to anyone else. I don't know how anything could plug this but you never know what is in there.
Randall
A54 #56

Re: through hull forard head

Randall
 

Ian,
That hose has been heat treated over 13 yrs its hard as rock and I will have to do a pump out and flush as best I can as there is a 40 litre black water tank, nasty.
The handle moves fine and the shaft inside seems to move also. So either something is in the tank, or the ball is no longer attached to the handle.
Ah the joy of boating. Nothing cheap, nothing easy.

Cheers,
Randall

On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 6:58 PM Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:
Suggest putting in off position. Remove hose. Then gently turn on. If water flows something may be blocking the hose. 
Saves diving under boat as a first option. 

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


On 5 Mar 2020, at 17:59, Randall Walker <sailingalbedo@...> wrote:

Has anyone had a 90 degree shut off valve fail to turn. The handle turns but nothing flows. I hope I have a clog/blockage near the shutoff. But it may be the pin from the handle to the ball have separated. for now I will just do pump outs, but was wondering if this has happened to anyone else. I don't know how anything could plug this but you never know what is in there.
Randall
A54 #56

Re: More Options for Rub Rail Inserts

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi All,

Regarding the rubber insert to the rub rail. I bring mine back by applying and rubbing in 3M boat cleaner polish as is used on the gel coat. Looks good.

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 06 March 2020 at 04:36 "Mike Ondra via Groups.Io" <mdondra@...> wrote:

With all the talk about rubrail replacement, I am curious as to why?

Ours certainly is chalky, but I wonder if there is a treatment to remove a thin layer of the material down to a “new” surface. Or apply a “permanent” coating on top of the chalky surface.

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, March 5, 2020 7:30 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] More Options for Rub Rail Inserts

 

Karen, I certainly want to replace my rub rail , having it produced and available in the US. without shipping from France ,would make it much cheaper and more available for boats located on this side of the pond , keep me posted .

Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: Karen Smith via Groups.Io <karenharmonie@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Tue, Mar 3, 2020 4:24 pm
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] More Options for Rub Rail Inserts

Hey group,

 

We have done a little digging into the possibility of US based production options for the rub rail inserts. Seems a good option instead of shipping relatively inexpensive, yet bulky and heavy material across the ocean.

Companies doing custom, short-run rubber extrusions are pretty common in the industry. We contacted a local manufacturer who specializes in things like rub rails for inflatable boats to see if they could produce the Amel rub rail insert in low quantity and at reasonable cost. 

 

The basic answer is, yes they can. They have seen a dimensioned drawing of the insert, and confirmed that they can make it without technical difficulty. It would be made of EDPM, the premier rubber formulation for UV exposure. Not sure about color yet.

 

There isn’t enough information yet to set a hard price, but it looks like the MAXIMUM cost would be $800 per boat, and it could be as little as half that, plus UPS domestic ground shipping.

 

The process would look like this:  If we get enough interest, I’ll trim a bit off my insert and give to the engineers so they can finalize the design of an extrusion die.  They then run off a prototype piece and I would test it for fit on my boat.  If all is good, a 50% deposit would hold a place in the production run.

 

If there is sufficient interest, we could have material in hand in 3 weeks.

 

At this point we have gone as far as we can go without having a read if there is enough interest in going further, so if this is something you’d want to participate in, or if you just have questions, drop an e-mail to greatketch@...

Karen Smith,
Bill Kinney
SM Harmonie #160
Fort Lauderdale, FL

 



 


 

Re: Headliner fix

Ian Park
 

Hi 
Redid the aft cabin by putting new headlining on thin ply (glued and stapled) and self adhesive Velcro to hold in place on ceiling. Then replaced the wood strips along the joints. Glued the side panels direct, but where it went under wood (released by removing windows) We shaved the backing off on the parts where the wood fitted back on top. 
www. hawkehouse.co.uk has some great advice on glue and how to replace lining. 
I took all the old lining from both heads and replaced it with domestic plastic shower panelling. It seemed more appropriate for a ‘wet room’ than fabric and has worked very well. 

Good luck. 

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


On 4 Mar 2020, at 17:11, Chip Beaman <chipfrog128@...> wrote:



I know it has been done by many on this forum. Can you please chime in on what it cost to have your headliners professionally replaced.  

thank you
Chip

Re: through hull forard head

Ian Park
 

Suggest putting in off position. Remove hose. Then gently turn on. If water flows something may be blocking the hose. 
Saves diving under boat as a first option. 

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


On 5 Mar 2020, at 17:59, Randall Walker <sailingalbedo@...> wrote:

Has anyone had a 90 degree shut off valve fail to turn. The handle turns but nothing flows. I hope I have a clog/blockage near the shutoff. But it may be the pin from the handle to the ball have separated. for now I will just do pump outs, but was wondering if this has happened to anyone else. I don't know how anything could plug this but you never know what is in there.
Randall
A54 #56

Re: More Options for Rub Rail Inserts

Patrick McAneny
 

Mike, Speaking for myself, I will give a couple of my reasons.
1 . I need to take the old one off to paint my rub rail ,it already has a couple of cracks and probably more after removing it and reinstalling.
2. I have always hated the color, and it will not go well with my newly painted forest green rub rail, white will look much better.
3. The chalk is a pain,gets on me and the hull when touched.
4. It is a bit short ,shrunk a bit I guess ,used to be longer.
5. Its not going to last the life of the boat , so might as well replace it now.
6. Others are interested and by buying and or shipping now as a group will save approx. $1300. or more ,opposed to what one set shipped via Fed Ex air from France would cost.

 We took my boat down to Haven Harbor yesterday for repairs and to be Awlgripped , so we may see you and Tom in Rock Hall,this spring. Greta mention Aletes yesterday when we hauled out.
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Ondra via Groups.Io <mdondra@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Mar 5, 2020 10:36 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] More Options for Rub Rail Inserts

With all the talk about rubrail replacement, I am curious as to why?
Ours certainly is chalky, but I wonder if there is a treatment to remove a thin layer of the material down to a “new” surface. Or apply a “permanent” coating on top of the chalky surface.
Mike Ondra
Aletes SM#240
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, March 5, 2020 7:30 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] More Options for Rub Rail Inserts
 
Karen, I certainly want to replace my rub rail , having it produced and available in the US. without shipping from France ,would make it much cheaper and more available for boats located on this side of the pond , keep me posted .
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: Karen Smith via Groups.Io <karenharmonie@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Tue, Mar 3, 2020 4:24 pm
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] More Options for Rub Rail Inserts
Hey group,
 
We have done a little digging into the possibility of US based production options for the rub rail inserts. Seems a good option instead of shipping relatively inexpensive, yet bulky and heavy material across the ocean.

Companies doing custom, short-run rubber extrusions are pretty common in the industry. We contacted a local manufacturer who specializes in things like rub rails for inflatable boats to see if they could produce the Amel rub rail insert in low quantity and at reasonable cost. 
 
The basic answer is, yes they can. They have seen a dimensioned drawing of the insert, and confirmed that they can make it without technical difficulty. It would be made of EDPM, the premier rubber formulation for UV exposure. Not sure about color yet.
 
There isn’t enough information yet to set a hard price, but it looks like the MAXIMUM cost would be $800 per boat, and it could be as little as half that, plus UPS domestic ground shipping.
 
The process would look like this:  If we get enough interest, I’ll trim a bit off my insert and give to the engineers so they can finalize the design of an extrusion die.  They then run off a prototype piece and I would test it for fit on my boat.  If all is good, a 50% deposit would hold a place in the production run.
 
If there is sufficient interest, we could have material in hand in 3 weeks.
 
At this point we have gone as far as we can go without having a read if there is enough interest in going further, so if this is something you’d want to participate in, or if you just have questions, drop an e-mail to greatketch@...

Karen Smith,
Bill Kinney
SM Harmonie #160
Fort Lauderdale, FL