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Sailors of the Year--Our Own Bill and Judy Rouse!

rossirossix4
 

Congratulations on being voted 2016 Sailor of the Year in the Sailing Today Magazine Awards! Quite a distinction--especially considering the list of nominees--  http://www.sailingtoday.co.uk/sailor-of-the-year/  Enjoy it, you deserve it!

Suzanne and Bob  SM KAIMI
R: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How long do your Hot Water Heaters Last?

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi,
very sorry for my late...again with a decent wifi at Port Plaisance, La Reunion.
Several years ago I ordered, as spare part, an original spiral from Isotemp dealer in Venezia, Italia.
Buon Vento
Giovanni TESTA
sv EUTIKIA
La Reunion


----Messaggio originale----
Da: amelyachtowners@...
Data: 15-set-2016 15.01
A:
Ogg: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How long do your Hot Water Heaters Last?



----Messaggio originale----
Da: amelyachtowners@...
Data: 15-set-2016 15.01
A:
Ogg: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How long do your Hot Water Heaters Last?

 

Hi Colin,
I think the "universal" element fits all of their models, not other brands.  You are correct that the Quick Nautic is identical to the Nautic.  I ordered my heating element and thermometer from Quick.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 15, 2016, at 8:14 AM, Colin Streeter colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks you for the responses. Since this hot water was renewed in 2008 and seems in absolutely spotless condition other than the electrical short to the 230v heater element we will get prices on both replacing the unit entirely, and on just the element this week before making a decision.

On doing an internet search today it seems to us that the previous Nautic 40L Boiler 40L is now possibly the Quick brand? The new Quick Nautic 40L (http://www.quicknauticalequipment.com/?lng=en&cs1=01&ms1=2&ms2=5&ms3=69&ms4=159 )  looks identical to our Nautic 40L.

Giovanni, where did you source your spiral element from? The Nautic boiler refers to a "Universal" element connection/fitting so am I correct that this is a generic fitting and one can fit any brand elements which has the "universal " type fitting?

The option to insert shut off valves to the water heater from/to the engine water was also suggested to me by the Yanmar mechanic. Seems to be a good idea.

Colin Streeter Island Pearl II
Amel 53 #332, Brisbane


On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 4:11 AM, Ben Driver/YAHOO joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Our Nautic Boiler lasted 14 years (boat was used infrequently).  However I believe internal heat exchanger was leaking for some time.  Eventually leak grew substantial causing freshwater to be leaked into Yanmar cooling system diluting anti-freeze and causing coolant to overflow.  This caused a minor mess but no real damage.  I was more concerned about anti-freeze from Yanmar getting into freshwater in water heater.  I would highly recommend proactively replacing these units before they fail.  No fun doing this remotely in a rolly harbor.

By the way, original unit was 45 liter.  New Nautic Boilers are not available in 45L. You can use 40 or 50 liter units.  I used 40 but in retrospect a 50 liter unit may have been a better fit.  But measure first.

Ben 

Ben and Gayle
La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Sep 14, 2016, at 7:15 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Mine, also Nautic Boiler, lasted about 5 years.  The first on failed in the heat exchanger coil (the symptom was a rising level of engine coolant in the overflow tank).  The whole unit had to be replaced.  That one has failed after 3 years in the 220AC heating element and/or thermostat.  I will replace those parts and hope the whole unit doesn't need replacing.
I would carry a spare heating element and thermostat.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 14, 2016, at 9:55 AM, colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Our 2001 model SM has a 2008 model Nautic Boiler 40L / 800W hot water system fitting which looks in excellent condition externally, however our heater element failed a little while back and we were just in the process of replacing the element.


A Yanmar mechanic quoting on servicing the motor this week suggested we consider replacing the entire hot water unit now anyway, ahead of a circumnavigation, as he had too often seen older hot water units ruin perfectly good engines over time. I do not think the mechanic was trying to profit from this as he did not supply hot water units and also had no extra time to fit a new one either.


It would be interesting to know the average lifespan of the hot water systems on other Amels in the group? Is 8 years too long or really pretty good for some years ahead still?


Colin & Lauren Streeter

Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332 




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445
Re: Zinc-anodes for rudder

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

In the U.S., we always used the R-5, and our mechanic drilled them for us.  I think these read ZIMAR?   These have the little copper-contact on the flat side.

In Seville, we purchased a Tecnomar 125mm (same size as the R-5) and we had a diver install a pair in Italy a couple of months ago.  It seems to be abrading at about the same speed as the R-5, so it looks like it will last about a year.  

The Tecnomar does not have the copper contact!  Should I be concerned?

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K No. 350 (2002)
At anchor, Salerno
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans Tigres Winch

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

The problem was most likely caused by not greasing the cone, or tightening the clutch too tight, causing all of the anchor load to rest on the key. If so, the key is twisted and no longer square and will not fit a new ICC. The key slot on the axle may also be no longer square. I would first try a new key with the new ICC, then if that does not work, you may need a machine shop to clean things up. Of course, you could replace the axle, ICC, and key.

This is the reason I always harp on a annual greasing of the cone and using a long snubber.

Good luck,

Bill
BeBe 387 

On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 7:22 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I had the key twist in the slots to the point that it widened the slot in the ICC.  I had a new slot cut in the gypsy 30 degrees or so off the old slot.  Has worked ok since.  Not sure what your problem might be.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Kent Robertson
828-234-6819 voice/text

On Sep 16, 2016, at 8:10 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

I had a time getting the inner clutch cone off, to the point I ordered a new inner clutch cone ("ICC").  When I tried to mount it, it won't go on the shaft.  The new one and the old one have the same part number embossed on the part, so it should fit.  Imtra tells me they have no history with such a complaint on the winch.


If I take the key out and rotate the new "ICC" a few degrees it will fit on.  With the key in it won't.  I tried the old "ICC" and it will only fit on within a range of a few degrees either side of the key, but it appears someone widened the key slot.  It seems like the shaft is oval or twisted, but that would take an enormous force.  


Has anyone else had this experience?

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Zinc-anodes for rudder

karkauai
 

I am using an R7 Camp rudder zinc (7" diameter) purchased online.  It is expensive, but deteriorates much more evenly than cheaper zincs I have used (i.e. Martyr zincs). I switched to these zincs because my hull potential showed inadequate zinc protection.  These have 70% more surface area than the 5" dia zincs, and have brought my hull potential into the "protected" range.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 17, 2016, at 5:43 AM, herbert@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


I am looking for a source to buy spare zinc-anodes for the rudder, prefered in Europe. On KALI MERA I need anodes with a diameter of 125mm and a center-hole of 10mm (the bolt to the rudder-stock is 10mm).  The anodes that I have seen in the chandleries (like budget marine...) or found in the internet all have a smaller hole in the center (~8mm), so I have to drill it to fit.  As my old spare parts did fit exactly there must be a source somewhere...

thanks,

herbert
KALI MERA, SN120, Trinidad
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Zinc-anodes for rudder

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

Hi Herbert

Have you tryed www.svb.de the german chandlery on the net? We use them as often as we can. If you can’t find what you are looking for, call/e-mail them and they will help you.

 

Regards

Annsofie

S/Y Lady Annila SM232, 1998  FOR SALE

Se info on www.sailinglife.se. Present in Portugal

 

 

 

Skickades från E-post för Windows 10

 

Från: herbert@... [amelyachtowners]
Skickat: den 17 september 2016 11:43
Till: amelyachtowners@...
Ämne: [Amel Yacht Owners] Zinc-anodes for rudder

 

 


I am looking for a source to buy spare zinc-anodes for the rudder, prefered in Europe. On KALI MERA I need anodes with a diameter of 125mm and a center-hole of 10mm (the bolt to the rudder-stock is 10mm).  The anodes that I have seen in the chandleries (like budget marine...) or found in the internet all have a smaller hole in the center (~8mm), so I have to drill it to fit.  As my old spare parts did fit exactly there must be a source somewhere...

thanks,

herbert
KALI MERA, SN120, Trinidad
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Zinc-anodes for rudder

eric freedman
 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Zinc-anodes for rudder

eric freedman
 

Zinc-anodes for rudder

Herbert Lackner
 


I am looking for a source to buy spare zinc-anodes for the rudder, prefered in Europe. On KALI MERA I need anodes with a diameter of 125mm and a center-hole of 10mm (the bolt to the rudder-stock is 10mm).  The anodes that I have seen in the chandleries (like budget marine...) or found in the internet all have a smaller hole in the center (~8mm), so I have to drill it to fit.  As my old spare parts did fit exactly there must be a source somewhere...

thanks,

herbert
KALI MERA, SN120, Trinidad
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans Tigres Winch

karkauai
 

I had the key twist in the slots to the point that it widened the slot in the ICC.  I had a new slot cut in the gypsy 30 degrees or so off the old slot.  Has worked ok since.  Not sure what your problem might be.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Kent Robertson
828-234-6819 voice/text

On Sep 16, 2016, at 8:10 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I had a time getting the inner clutch cone off, to the point I ordered a new inner clutch cone ("ICC").  When I tried to mount it, it won't go on the shaft.  The new one and the old one have the same part number embossed on the part, so it should fit.  Imtra tells me they have no history with such a complaint on the winch.


If I take the key out and rotate the new "ICC" a few degrees it will fit on.  With the key in it won't.  I tried the old "ICC" and it will only fit on within a range of a few degrees either side of the key, but it appears someone widened the key slot.  It seems like the shaft is oval or twisted, but that would take an enormous force.  


Has anyone else had this experience?

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477
Lofrans Tigres Winch

Duane Siegfri
 

I had a time getting the inner clutch cone off, to the point I ordered a new inner clutch cone ("ICC").  When I tried to mount it, it won't go on the shaft.  The new one and the old one have the same part number embossed on the part, so it should fit.  Imtra tells me they have no history with such a complaint on the winch.


If I take the key out and rotate the new "ICC" a few degrees it will fit on.  With the key in it won't.  I tried the old "ICC" and it will only fit on within a range of a few degrees either side of the key, but it appears someone widened the key slot.  It seems like the shaft is oval or twisted, but that would take an enormous force.  


Has anyone else had this experience?

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477
R: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rudder packing_DONE !

Giovanni TESTA
 


To all, many thanks for infos and prompt support.
It was a hard work to remove the old 3 seals.
 I had to fix long screws and than to pull them out with a good lever somehow.
Best way is to find where the seal is cut and pull out first one extremity.
Than I have put in position each seal at 120°
The new white seals/ring are from SAV_AMEL .
On the way to Madagascar I'll check the situation, ready to turn how much necessary, little by little. Let's see-
All the best
Buon Vento
Giovanni TESTA
sv EUTIKIA SM 428
La Reunion
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rudder packing

christian alby <calbyy@...>
 

 Quite right !
just finishing a major refurbishing of a 1982 maramu, I had to drop the rudder & tackled discovery of dismantling parts without knowing what to expect.
got the recommendation to use graphite packing from a mechanic working on fishing vessels where the shafts are chrome plated steel of heavy diameter; they can take a beating.
looking at our SS shaft, the wear induced by regular friction by graphite packing will induce wear on outer surface ... already found out that the rudder shaft had been replaced recently (< 5 years), and badly stratified at that.
would not wish to plan on another replacement.
will change to teflon impregnated packing.
fair winds

C&M Alby - Maramu 116 'Désirade VIII' in Canet


Christian Alby - France home fixe +33 (0)5 34 39 06 02 home Internet +33 (0)9 60 37 22 72 mobile +33 (0)6 42 69 07 80


De : "lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]"
À : amelyachtowners@...
Envoyé le : Jeudi 15 septembre 2016 13h06
Objet : Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rudder packing

 
Take care using graphite packing on stainless shafts.  Graphite is a metal that is higher on the galvanic scale than stainless and I have encountered problems with pitting.  The Teflon impregnated packing seems to work quite well for me.
 
Best,
 
James
 
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: christian alby calbyy@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Sep 15, 2016 6:56 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rudder packing

 
good day
do not remove the Delrin ring at the bottom; It is inserted in the stratification of the hull & meant to hold the packing when compressed by the top nut (screwed on).
to prevent leaks select proper size & material
on our Maramu we use for packing  'Tresse graphitée special marine (by Maucour BTR.73.C08) - 8 mm2' - guess it will be the same on your SM.
cut to size (190 mm lgth on Maramu), slanted cut shape to block it when compressing; mount around rudder shaft, use grease to improve contact with shaft & do not tighten immediatly - let sea water wet it & gorge it nicely; tighten progressively until no more water creeps up.
took 2 days to reach dry condition.
Note : shipchandlers have proper packing, different makes & grease ... key is to tighten progressively avoid displacement when compressed.
fair winds
Maramu 116 Désirade VIII in Canet Roussillon - C&M Alby

Christian Alby - France home fixe +33 (0)5 34 39 06 02 home Internet +33 (0)9 60 37 22 72 mobile +33 (0)6 42 69 07 80


De : "'gtesta23@...' gtesta23@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
À : amelyachtowners@...
Cc : richard03801@...
Envoyé le : Mardi 13 septembre 2016 16h19
Objet : [Amel Yacht Owners] rudder packing

 
 
To all,
I'm on the way to replace the rudder packing...too much leakage after turning the nut twice.
I have removed the big white nut, not the hold packing,
The issue is that now I see on the bottom a white ring without any cut on it, as my new packing rings have.
It seams to me very hard and difficult to remove.
Before to do any damage drilling it to fix 2 screw and to pull it out
I wish to know if you had similar experience.
I know the previous posts about it ( by Bill and Richard )
Thanks so much for your support....the day after tomorrow I have to return on the water.
Giovanni TESTA
sv EUTIKIA SM 428
La Reunion
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SIPHON BREAK USING A VENTED LOOP -RAW WATER ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM

Alejandro Paquin
 

Bill and Alexandre, many thanks for sharing images and comments, all very useful and will put into effect immediately in our new engine installation.

Alex Paquin
Refrigeration and Air Conditioning

yahoogroups@...
 

All,


Here is a link to something every Amel owner should read. I wish I knew how many times a person on this forum recommended adding refrigerant, or "to put in a shot of Freon" to what previously was a perfectly charged system. The reality is that the refrigerant level and/or the compressor health is almost never the cause of a cooling problem with Frigoboat or Climma systems, but it is the first thing that some owners and some technicians do. Follow this link to a great article written by the owner of Coastal Climate Control, Rob Warren.


Rules of Engagement http://coastalclimatecontrol.com/index.php/blog/184-rules-of-engagement.html

 

Within the above article is another link: Frigoboat R134a charge guidelines - 

http://coastalclimatecontrol.com/images/PDF/frigoboat_r134a_charge_guidelines.pdf



Best, 


Bill

BeBe 387
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Remedy for seawater causing oxidation on Onan parts

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi Bill

Many thanks for that. We will follow your process to the letter in doing the work in future.

Lauren and I are really going to miss your input and we do hope you still keep in touch through this forum once you are back on dry land. We were hoping to meet you and Judy but will be in the Caribbean too late (Jan - May 2018) unfortunately.

Best regards
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332
Brisbane

On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 10:10 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Colin,

Since saltwater caused your problem and the source of saltwater was changing the impeller, here is what I do:

I close the sea chest valve.
I place a towel under the work area.
I use a wet-vac to remove the water in the sea chest
I remove the seawater pump hoses, using the wet-vac to remove any seawater.
I remove the two bolts securing the pump.
With the pump removed, I change the impeller. I use glycerin to lube the impeller blades and silicone grease on the O ring. Don't forget to use some fine wet-dry sandpaper to polish the metal that the impeller blades come in contact with.

I have never spilt a drop of seawater because of the wet-vac and towel.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Sep 15, 2016 6:45 AM, "Colin Streeter colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Alex & Bill

Thanks all for some good pointers. Since we will be installing a new fuel filter housing, filter and diesel pump on the Onan soon I will simply disconnect the fuel return line as Alex did whilst doing the job, and/or put a shut off valve on the return similar to what was done on Brava.

Until someone in the group comes up with a better long term solution (ie which can be activated from outside the engine room in case of a fire) I will strap/lock off that value in the open position to ensure it is never shut off accidentally.

Colin Streeter, Island Pearl II
Amel 53 #332, Brisbane.

On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 12:47 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:
 

Hello Colin,

When it happened to me (while working on the engine), I simply disconnected the return line.
All depends in how much time you will address the Onan fuel filter…

Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 9/14/16, colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Siphoning Effect of Diesel Fuel Return line
To: amelyachtowners@...m
Date: Wednesday, September 14, 2016, 8:30 AM




 









The fuel filter on SM
#332 has developed an annoying "drip" leak from
the Onan's fuel filter unit. We have some surface rust
on the filter housing and on the fuel pump which is limited
to just those two units since they are located directly
below the sea water pump and we had sea water on them during
an impeller change at sea and I embarrassingly forgot to
come back and clean it up when back in
port.
Anyhow, I
turned off the main fuel shut off valve, assuming that would
stop the drip effect till I replace both the fuel filter
housing/filter and fuel pump, but have now discovered the
same problem as mentioned in an earlier post (some related
comments pasted below)... ie. the drip simply continues on
as the fuel is actually siphoning back into the filter
through the diesel return line!!
Since our tank is near full I am loathed to
drain it ahead of changing these units out. I find it
somewhat annoying that I cannot stop that leak via a shut
off valve, but also fully understand why Amel did not put
one on as should it was accidentally left closed whilst
running the engines then very serious damage would be
incurred.
Any
suggestions? I find myself somewhat tempted to put a shut
off valve on that return line but would be interested in the
wisdom of the group regarding the pro's & cons
first, or any better solutions, as it would be the first
time I've ever changed any original Amel spec on
#332.
Colin
Streeter, Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332, Brisbane.
Australia


I've copied Bills
comments below on this same topic
---In amelyachtowners@...m,
wrote :

It is entirely possible that
my fear of boat fires is making me irrational. So anybody
should feel free to come to an alternative conclusion about
risks and benefits without me thinking they are crazy.

I have seen four boats on
fire. Two I put out, two I watched burn to the waterline.
The idea that I could syphon 200 liters (or 100, or 50) of
diesel fuel into an engine room fire with no way to stop it,
just strikes me as terrifying.

The remote handle for the bottom valve is there
to shut the valve in case of fire. It says so right on the
handle. That’s the logic Amel used for the design of that
valve. It is good logic. It is smart, it is as safe as it
can be. I like that approach. Every other boat I have had
had a similar arrangement. 

If you accept that logic I don’t see how you
can avoid thinking the syphoning return line should have the
same arrangement. It would feed fuel to a fire also. Why is
fuel that syphons out of the tank less hazardous during a
fire than fuel from the bottom?

Enough said. 

IF I find that the return line DOES syphon on
my boat, I will install a remote handled valve to shut it
off. Just like Amel did for the main fuel line. If that is
the case, I’ll post pictures and a description of what I
did. 










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--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445





--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How long do your Hot Water Heaters Last?

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi Kent

Many thanks for confirming that information. Very helpful as I can order two elements right away tonight now.

All the best
Colin, Island Pearl II 
Amel 53 # 332

On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 11:01 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Colin,
I think the "universal" element fits all of their models, not other brands.  You are correct that the Quick Nautic is identical to the Nautic.  I ordered my heating element and thermometer from Quick.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 15, 2016, at 8:14 AM, Colin Streeter colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Thanks you for the responses. Since this hot water was renewed in 2008 and seems in absolutely spotless condition other than the electrical short to the 230v heater element we will get prices on both replacing the unit entirely, and on just the element this week before making a decision.

On doing an internet search today it seems to us that the previous Nautic 40L Boiler 40L is now possibly the Quick brand? The new Quick Nautic 40L (http://www.quicknauticalequipment.com/?lng=en&cs1=01&ms1=2&ms2=5&ms3=69&ms4=159 )  looks identical to our Nautic 40L.

Giovanni, where did you source your spiral element from? The Nautic boiler refers to a "Universal" element connection/fitting so am I correct that this is a generic fitting and one can fit any brand elements which has the "universal" type fitting?

The option to insert shut off valves to the water heater from/to the engine water was also suggested to me by the Yanmar mechanic. Seems to be a good idea.

Colin Streeter Island Pearl II
Amel 53 #332, Brisbane


On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 4:11 AM, Ben Driver/YAHOO joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Our Nautic Boiler lasted 14 years (boat was used infrequently).  However I believe internal heat exchanger was leaking for some time.  Eventually leak grew substantial causing freshwater to be leaked into Yanmar cooling system diluting anti-freeze and causing coolant to overflow.  This caused a minor mess but no real damage.  I was more concerned about anti-freeze from Yanmar getting into freshwater in water heater.  I would highly recommend proactively replacing these units before they fail.  No fun doing this remotely in a rolly harbor.

By the way, original unit was 45 liter.  New Nautic Boilers are not available in 45L. You can use 40 or 50 liter units.  I used 40 but in retrospect a 50 liter unit may have been a better fit.  But measure first.

Ben 

Ben and Gayle
La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Sep 14, 2016, at 7:15 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:

 

Mine, also Nautic Boiler, lasted about 5 years.  The first on failed in the heat exchanger coil (the symptom was a rising level of engine coolant in the overflow tank).  The whole unit had to be replaced.  That one has failed after 3 years in the 220AC heating element and/or thermostat.  I will replace those parts and hope the whole unit doesn't need replacing.
I would carry a spare heating element and thermostat.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 14, 2016, at 9:55 AM, colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:

 

Our 2001 model SM has a 2008 model Nautic Boiler 40L / 800W hot water system fitting which looks in excellent condition externally, however our heater element failed a little while back and we were just in the process of replacing the element.


A Yanmar mechanic quoting on servicing the motor this week suggested we consider replacing the entire hot water unit now anyway, ahead of a circumnavigation, as he had too often seen older hot water units ruin perfectly good engines over time. I do not think the mechanic was trying to profit from this as he did not supply hot water units and also had no extra time to fit a new one either.


It would be interesting to know the average lifespan of the hot water systems on other Amels in the group? Is 8 years too long or really pretty good for some years ahead still?


Colin & Lauren Streeter

Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332 







--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How long do your Hot Water Heaters Last?

karkauai
 

Hi Colin,
I think the "universal" element fits all of their models, not other brands.  You are correct that the Quick Nautic is identical to the Nautic.  I ordered my heating element and thermometer from Quick.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 15, 2016, at 8:14 AM, Colin Streeter colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks you for the responses. Since this hot water was renewed in 2008 and seems in absolutely spotless condition other than the electrical short to the 230v heater element we will get prices on both replacing the unit entirely, and on just the element this week before making a decision.

On doing an internet search today it seems to us that the previous Nautic 40L Boiler 40L is now possibly the Quick brand? The new Quick Nautic 40L (http://www.quicknauticalequipment.com/?lng=en&cs1=01&ms1=2&ms2=5&ms3=69&ms4=159 )  looks identical to our Nautic 40L.

Giovanni, where did you source your spiral element from? The Nautic boiler refers to a "Universal" element connection/fitting so am I correct that this is a generic fitting and one can fit any brand elements which has the "universal" type fitting?

The option to insert shut off valves to the water heater from/to the engine water was also suggested to me by the Yanmar mechanic. Seems to be a good idea.

Colin Streeter Island Pearl II
Amel 53 #332, Brisbane


On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 4:11 AM, Ben Driver/YAHOO joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Our Nautic Boiler lasted 14 years (boat was used infrequently).  However I believe internal heat exchanger was leaking for some time.  Eventually leak grew substantial causing freshwater to be leaked into Yanmar cooling system diluting anti-freeze and causing coolant to overflow.  This caused a minor mess but no real damage.  I was more concerned about anti-freeze from Yanmar getting into freshwater in water heater.  I would highly recommend proactively replacing these units before they fail.  No fun doing this remotely in a rolly harbor.

By the way, original unit was 45 liter.  New Nautic Boilers are not available in 45L. You can use 40 or 50 liter units.  I used 40 but in retrospect a 50 liter unit may have been a better fit.  But measure first.

Ben 

Ben and Gayle
La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Sep 14, 2016, at 7:15 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Mine, also Nautic Boiler, lasted about 5 years.  The first on failed in the heat exchanger coil (the symptom was a rising level of engine coolant in the overflow tank).  The whole unit had to be replaced.  That one has failed after 3 years in the 220AC heating element and/or thermostat.  I will replace those parts and hope the whole unit doesn't need replacing.
I would carry a spare heating element and thermostat.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 14, 2016, at 9:55 AM, colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Our 2001 model SM has a 2008 model Nautic Boiler 40L / 800W hot water system fitting which looks in excellent condition externally, however our heater element failed a little while back and we were just in the process of replacing the element.


A Yanmar mechanic quoting on servicing the motor this week suggested we consider replacing the entire hot water unit now anyway, ahead of a circumnavigation, as he had too often seen older hot water units ruin perfectly good engines over time. I do not think the mechanic was trying to profit from this as he did not supply hot water units and also had no extra time to fit a new one either.


It would be interesting to know the average lifespan of the hot water systems on other Amels in the group? Is 8 years too long or really pretty good for some years ahead still?


Colin & Lauren Streeter

Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332 







--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

I well it's always a good idea to put a Little grease inside the bulb fixture to reduce corrosion priest is not conduct..

Regards
Capt Richard Piller

On Sep 13, 2016, at 21:31, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Pat,


Hella, SignalMate and AquaSignal all make sealed LED fixtures that have an operating voltage range of 9 to 33 Volts.

One of the real advantages of using an LED designed fixture instead of an LED bulb in a traditional fixture is that the LED fixture can be made really, truly, waterproof. I have had trouble with contact corrosion using LED bulbs in regular navigation light fixtures.

Bill


On Sep 13, 2016, at 13:03, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Bill, I am glad to hear that the instruments are fine up to 30v, it should never get there. Do you have a tri-color you would recommend that runs on 24v. ? I looked at the one Eric mentioned a few days ago , but it listed it as operating between 11.6 v to 16v.
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Sep 13, 2016 9:42 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

 
Pat,

First, do not worry about your instruments.  Modern sailing instruments are designed to run on normal system voltages from 10 to 30 volts and will have no problem with running off the 24V side of the Amel electrical system--unless your charging system is seriously out of whack.  

As I upgrade my instruments from the 70’s era “vintage” models, fewer and fewer things are connected to the 12V converters. Remember, those converters were installed because 24 volt instruments of a quality that Amel wanted were not available back in the mid 70’s when 24 volts boats were much rarer than then are today. They are never quite going to go away, because I still need a 12V source for my NMEA2000 network backbone, if for nothing else.

There is one place where the converter is a great solution:  running an SSB off it’s own dedicated converter. Boats with 12 Volt only systems can have a lot of trouble keeping the voltage up high enough (13.4V) to properly drive an SSB during transmissions without a charging source running.  That big converter makes our SSB installations work better than a lot of other boats.

If you have batteries that require occasional high voltage equalization, it is just good practice to turn everything off while that process is going on, including your 24 to 12 volt converters.  

Not all Amel’s have the navigation lights run off the converter.  Mine does not. They have always run directly off 24 volts, and work fine. 

To be honest, I am mystified why anybody would still be fussing with incandescent lamps on the top of the mast.  For me at least, the hassle of changing a masthead light is well worth the cost and effort of a well made, internally voltage stabilized, waterproof, LED fixture. Even if I wasn’t concerned about power draw at all, (and I am!) the mast head would be an LED fixture. It is mature technology these days, and well made ones do not require separate, external, voltage regulators. 

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Newport, RI, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 13, 2016, at 08:47, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


I have had all new instruments installed on my boat . Without  being consulted the electrician removed the 24 to 12v converter next to the head and installed 24v bulbs in mast head fixture. Thinking it was something the previous owner installed , I did not object , not knowing it stabilized the current as well as converted it. From the beginning , Joel advised me not to change things electrically, I value his opinions and tried to follow them. When I brought this up to the electrician , he asked me why all boats don't have a stabilizer if necessary. I want to discuss this further with him , but how do I answer the logical question . Other boats have generators and engines that increase voltage , how is that they don't require a stabilizer ? Secondly , they powered all my new instruments with 24v . Are they going to be prone to failure ? I want to have any changes done , if necessary before getting my boat back within the next week or so.
Thanks,
Pat SM123

-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Sep 7, 2016 8:33 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

 
I believe that the charging voltage is, 28.8 absorption and 32+ equalization, transmitted to the Masthead lights.

Kent
SM243
Kristy 

On Sep 7, 2016, at 4:14 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
No I don't think so....you can't get voltage surges with a big battery bank.
IF it could possibly happen you'd be having all sorts of issues with lamps and other 24VDC devices.
The ONLY way you MIGHT have an issue with this would be if you used the EQUALISE cycle on your battery charger while the masthead light was on. The EQUALISE cycle raises the voltage to around 32VDC for a while, but that is something you would rarely do, possibly only if you had flooded batteries that you suspected of being sulphated, and if you know about equalising batteries, you would also know to turn off anything on the DC circuit before starting to do it.
Its much more likely that you have bad connections, salt water ingress into the lamp holder.....
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How long do your Hot Water Heaters Last?

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Thanks you for the responses. Since this hot water was renewed in 2008 and seems in absolutely spotless condition other than the electrical short to the 230v heater element we will get prices on both replacing the unit entirely, and on just the element this week before making a decision.

On doing an internet search today it seems to us that the previous Nautic 40L Boiler 40L is now possibly the Quick brand? The new Quick Nautic 40L (http://www.quicknauticalequipment.com/?lng=en&cs1=01&ms1=2&ms2=5&ms3=69&ms4=159 )  looks identical to our Nautic 40L.

Giovanni, where did you source your spiral element from? The Nautic boiler refers to a "Universal" element connection/fitting so am I correct that this is a generic fitting and one can fit any brand elements which has the "universal" type fitting?

The option to insert shut off valves to the water heater from/to the engine water was also suggested to me by the Yanmar mechanic. Seems to be a good idea.

Colin Streeter Island Pearl II
Amel 53 #332, Brisbane


On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 4:11 AM, Ben Driver/YAHOO joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Our Nautic Boiler lasted 14 years (boat was used infrequently).  However I believe internal heat exchanger was leaking for some time.  Eventually leak grew substantial causing freshwater to be leaked into Yanmar cooling system diluting anti-freeze and causing coolant to overflow.  This caused a minor mess but no real damage.  I was more concerned about anti-freeze from Yanmar getting into freshwater in water heater.  I would highly recommend proactively replacing these units before they fail.  No fun doing this remotely in a rolly harbor.

By the way, original unit was 45 liter.  New Nautic Boilers are not available in 45L. You can use 40 or 50 liter units.  I used 40 but in retrospect a 50 liter unit may have been a better fit.  But measure first.

Ben 

Ben and Gayle
La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Sep 14, 2016, at 7:15 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Mine, also Nautic Boiler, lasted about 5 years.  The first on failed in the heat exchanger coil (the symptom was a rising level of engine coolant in the overflow tank).  The whole unit had to be replaced.  That one has failed after 3 years in the 220AC heating element and/or thermostat.  I will replace those parts and hope the whole unit doesn't need replacing.
I would carry a spare heating element and thermostat.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 14, 2016, at 9:55 AM, colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Our 2001 model SM has a 2008 model Nautic Boiler 40L / 800W hot water system fitting which looks in excellent condition externally, however our heater element failed a little while back and we were just in the process of replacing the element.


A Yanmar mechanic quoting on servicing the motor this week suggested we consider replacing the entire hot water unit now anyway, ahead of a circumnavigation, as he had too often seen older hot water units ruin perfectly good engines over time. I do not think the mechanic was trying to profit from this as he did not supply hot water units and also had no extra time to fit a new one either.


It would be interesting to know the average lifespan of the hot water systems on other Amels in the group? Is 8 years too long or really pretty good for some years ahead still?


Colin & Lauren Streeter

Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332 







--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445
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