Date   

Remedy for seawater causing oxidation on Onan parts

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Colin,

Since saltwater caused your problem and the source of saltwater was changing the impeller, here is what I do:

I close the sea chest valve.
I place a towel under the work area.
I use a wet-vac to remove the water in the sea chest
I remove the seawater pump hoses, using the wet-vac to remove any seawater.
I remove the two bolts securing the pump.
With the pump removed, I change the impeller. I use glycerin to lube the impeller blades and silicone grease on the O ring. Don't forget to use some fine wet-dry sandpaper to polish the metal that the impeller blades come in contact with.

I have never spilt a drop of seawater because of the wet-vac and towel.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Sep 15, 2016 6:45 AM, "Colin Streeter colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Alex & Bill

Thanks all for some good pointers. Since we will be installing a new fuel filter housing, filter and diesel pump on the Onan soon I will simply disconnect the fuel return line as Alex did whilst doing the job, and/or put a shut off valve on the return similar to what was done on Brava.

Until someone in the group comes up with a better long term solution (ie which can be activated from outside the engine room in case of a fire) I will strap/lock off that value in the open position to ensure it is never shut off accidentally.

Colin Streeter, Island Pearl II
Amel 53 #332, Brisbane.

On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 12:47 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hello Colin,

When it happened to me (while working on the engine), I simply disconnected the return line.
All depends in how much time you will address the Onan fuel filter…

Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 9/14/16, colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Siphoning Effect of Diesel Fuel Return line
To: amelyachtowners@...m
Date: Wednesday, September 14, 2016, 8:30 AM




 









The fuel filter on SM
#332 has developed an annoying "drip" leak from
the Onan's fuel filter unit. We have some surface rust
on the filter housing and on the fuel pump which is limited
to just those two units since they are located directly
below the sea water pump and we had sea water on them during
an impeller change at sea and I embarrassingly forgot to
come back and clean it up when back in
port.
Anyhow, I
turned off the main fuel shut off valve, assuming that would
stop the drip effect till I replace both the fuel filter
housing/filter and fuel pump, but have now discovered the
same problem as mentioned in an earlier post (some related
comments pasted below)... ie. the drip simply continues on
as the fuel is actually siphoning back into the filter
through the diesel return line!!
Since our tank is near full I am loathed to
drain it ahead of changing these units out. I find it
somewhat annoying that I cannot stop that leak via a shut
off valve, but also fully understand why Amel did not put
one on as should it was accidentally left closed whilst
running the engines then very serious damage would be
incurred.
Any
suggestions? I find myself somewhat tempted to put a shut
off valve on that return line but would be interested in the
wisdom of the group regarding the pro's & cons
first, or any better solutions, as it would be the first
time I've ever changed any original Amel spec on
#332.
Colin
Streeter, Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332, Brisbane.
Australia


I've copied Bills
comments below on this same topic
---In amelyachtowners@...m,
wrote :

It is entirely possible that
my fear of boat fires is making me irrational. So anybody
should feel free to come to an alternative conclusion about
risks and benefits without me thinking they are crazy.

I have seen four boats on
fire. Two I put out, two I watched burn to the waterline.
The idea that I could syphon 200 liters (or 100, or 50) of
diesel fuel into an engine room fire with no way to stop it,
just strikes me as terrifying.

The remote handle for the bottom valve is there
to shut the valve in case of fire. It says so right on the
handle. That’s the logic Amel used for the design of that
valve. It is good logic. It is smart, it is as safe as it
can be. I like that approach. Every other boat I have had
had a similar arrangement. 

If you accept that logic I don’t see how you
can avoid thinking the syphoning return line should have the
same arrangement. It would feed fuel to a fire also. Why is
fuel that syphons out of the tank less hazardous during a
fire than fuel from the bottom?

Enough said. 

IF I find that the return line DOES syphon on
my boat, I will install a remote handled valve to shut it
off. Just like Amel did for the main fuel line. If that is
the case, I’ll post pictures and a description of what I
did. 










#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979 --
#yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp {
border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px
0;padding:0 10px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp hr {
border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp #yiv0455604979hd {
color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px
0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp #yiv0455604979ads {
margin-bottom:10px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp .yiv0455604979ad {
padding:0 0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp .yiv0455604979ad p {
margin:0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp .yiv0455604979ad a {
color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}
#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor
#yiv0455604979ygrp-lc {
font-family:Arial;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor
#yiv0455604979ygrp-lc #yiv0455604979hd {
margin:10px
0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor
#yiv0455604979ygrp-lc .yiv0455604979ad {
margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979actions {
font-family:Verdana;font-size:11px;padding:10px 0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity {
background-color:#e0ecee;float:left;font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;padding:10px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity span {
font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity span:first-child {
text-transform:uppercase;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity span a {
color:#5085b6;text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity span span {
color:#ff7900;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity span
.yiv0455604979underline {
text-decoration:underline;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979attach {
clear:both;display:table;font-family:Arial;font-size:12px;padding:10px
0;width:400px;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979attach div a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979attach img {
border:none;padding-right:5px;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979attach label {
display:block;margin-bottom:5px;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979attach label a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 blockquote {
margin:0 0 0 4px;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979bold {
font-family:Arial;font-size:13px;font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979bold a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 dd.yiv0455604979last p a {
font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 dd.yiv0455604979last p span {
margin-right:10px;font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 dd.yiv0455604979last p
span.yiv0455604979yshortcuts {
margin-right:0;}

#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979attach-table div div a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979attach-table {
width:400px;}

#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979file-title a, #yiv0455604979
div.yiv0455604979file-title a:active, #yiv0455604979
div.yiv0455604979file-title a:hover, #yiv0455604979
div.yiv0455604979file-title a:visited {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979photo-title a,
#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979photo-title a:active,
#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979photo-title a:hover,
#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979photo-title a:visited {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 div#yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg
#yiv0455604979ygrp-msg p a span.yiv0455604979yshortcuts {
font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;font-weight:normal;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979green {
color:#628c2a;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979MsoNormal {
margin:0 0 0 0;}

#yiv0455604979 o {
font-size:0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979photos div {
float:left;width:72px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979photos div div {
border:1px solid
#666666;min-height:62px;overflow:hidden;width:62px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979photos div label {
color:#666666;font-size:10px;overflow:hidden;text-align:center;white-space:nowrap;width:64px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979reco-category {
font-size:77%;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979reco-desc {
font-size:77%;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979replbq {
margin:4px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-actbar div a:first-child {
margin-right:2px;padding-right:5px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg {
font-size:13px;font-family:Arial, helvetica, clean,
sans-serif;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg table {
font-size:inherit;font:100%;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg select,
#yiv0455604979 input, #yiv0455604979 textarea {
font:99% Arial, Helvetica, clean, sans-serif;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg pre, #yiv0455604979
code {
font:115% monospace;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg * {
line-height:1.22em;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg #yiv0455604979logo {
padding-bottom:10px;}


#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-msg p a {
font-family:Verdana;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-msg
p#yiv0455604979attach-count span {
color:#1E66AE;font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-reco
#yiv0455604979reco-head {
color:#ff7900;font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-reco {
margin-bottom:20px;padding:0px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor #yiv0455604979ov
li a {
font-size:130%;text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor #yiv0455604979ov
li {
font-size:77%;list-style-type:square;padding:6px 0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor #yiv0455604979ov
ul {
margin:0;padding:0 0 0 8px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-text {
font-family:Georgia;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-text p {
margin:0 0 1em 0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-text tt {
font-size:120%;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-vital ul li:last-child {
border-right:none !important;
}
#yiv0455604979




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Siphoning Effect of Diesel Fuel Return line

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Alex & Bill

Thanks all for some good pointers. Since we will be installing a new fuel filter housing, filter and diesel pump on the Onan soon I will simply disconnect the fuel return line as Alex did whilst doing the job, and/or put a shut off valve on the return similar to what was done on Brava.

Until someone in the group comes up with a better long term solution (ie which can be activated from outside the engine room in case of a fire) I will strap/lock off that value in the open position to ensure it is never shut off accidentally.

Colin Streeter, Island Pearl II
Amel 53 #332, Brisbane.

On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 12:47 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello Colin,

When it happened to me (while working on the engine), I simply disconnected the return line.
All depends in how much time you will address the Onan fuel filter…

Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 9/14/16, colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Siphoning Effect of Diesel Fuel Return line
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, September 14, 2016, 8:30 AM




 









The fuel filter on SM
#332 has developed an annoying "drip" leak from
the Onan's fuel filter unit. We have some surface rust
on the filter housing and on the fuel pump which is limited
to just those two units since they are located directly
below the sea water pump and we had sea water on them during
an impeller change at sea and I embarrassingly forgot to
come back and clean it up when back in
port.
Anyhow, I
turned off the main fuel shut off valve, assuming that would
stop the drip effect till I replace both the fuel filter
housing/filter and fuel pump, but have now discovered the
same problem as mentioned in an earlier post (some related
comments pasted below)... ie. the drip simply continues on
as the fuel is actually siphoning back into the filter
through the diesel return line!!
Since our tank is near full I am loathed to
drain it ahead of changing these units out. I find it
somewhat annoying that I cannot stop that leak via a shut
off valve, but also fully understand why Amel did not put
one on as should it was accidentally left closed whilst
running the engines then very serious damage would be
incurred.
Any
suggestions? I find myself somewhat tempted to put a shut
off valve on that return line but would be interested in the
wisdom of the group regarding the pro's & cons
first, or any better solutions, as it would be the first
time I've ever changed any original Amel spec on
#332.
Colin
Streeter, Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332, Brisbane.
Australia


I've copied Bills
comments below on this same topic
---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com,
wrote :

It is entirely possible that
my fear of boat fires is making me irrational. So anybody
should feel free to come to an alternative conclusion about
risks and benefits without me thinking they are crazy.

I have seen four boats on
fire. Two I put out, two I watched burn to the waterline.
The idea that I could syphon 200 liters (or 100, or 50) of
diesel fuel into an engine room fire with no way to stop it,
just strikes me as terrifying.

The remote handle for the bottom valve is there
to shut the valve in case of fire. It says so right on the
handle. That’s the logic Amel used for the design of that
valve. It is good logic. It is smart, it is as safe as it
can be. I like that approach. Every other boat I have had
had a similar arrangement. 

If you accept that logic I don’t see how you
can avoid thinking the syphoning return line should have the
same arrangement. It would feed fuel to a fire also. Why is
fuel that syphons out of the tank less hazardous during a
fire than fuel from the bottom?

Enough said. 

IF I find that the return line DOES syphon on
my boat, I will install a remote handled valve to shut it
off. Just like Amel did for the main fuel line. If that is
the case, I’ll post pictures and a description of what I
did. 










#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979 --
#yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp {
border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px
0;padding:0 10px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp hr {
border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp #yiv0455604979hd {
color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px
0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp #yiv0455604979ads {
margin-bottom:10px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp .yiv0455604979ad {
padding:0 0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp .yiv0455604979ad p {
margin:0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp .yiv0455604979ad a {
color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}
#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor
#yiv0455604979ygrp-lc {
font-family:Arial;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor
#yiv0455604979ygrp-lc #yiv0455604979hd {
margin:10px
0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor
#yiv0455604979ygrp-lc .yiv0455604979ad {
margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979actions {
font-family:Verdana;font-size:11px;padding:10px 0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity {
background-color:#e0ecee;float:left;font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;padding:10px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity span {
font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity span:first-child {
text-transform:uppercase;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity span a {
color:#5085b6;text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity span span {
color:#ff7900;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity span
.yiv0455604979underline {
text-decoration:underline;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979attach {
clear:both;display:table;font-family:Arial;font-size:12px;padding:10px
0;width:400px;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979attach div a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979attach img {
border:none;padding-right:5px;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979attach label {
display:block;margin-bottom:5px;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979attach label a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 blockquote {
margin:0 0 0 4px;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979bold {
font-family:Arial;font-size:13px;font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979bold a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 dd.yiv0455604979last p a {
font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 dd.yiv0455604979last p span {
margin-right:10px;font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 dd.yiv0455604979last p
span.yiv0455604979yshortcuts {
margin-right:0;}

#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979attach-table div div a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979attach-table {
width:400px;}

#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979file-title a, #yiv0455604979
div.yiv0455604979file-title a:active, #yiv0455604979
div.yiv0455604979file-title a:hover, #yiv0455604979
div.yiv0455604979file-title a:visited {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979photo-title a,
#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979photo-title a:active,
#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979photo-title a:hover,
#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979photo-title a:visited {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 div#yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg
#yiv0455604979ygrp-msg p a span.yiv0455604979yshortcuts {
font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;font-weight:normal;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979green {
color:#628c2a;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979MsoNormal {
margin:0 0 0 0;}

#yiv0455604979 o {
font-size:0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979photos div {
float:left;width:72px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979photos div div {
border:1px solid
#666666;min-height:62px;overflow:hidden;width:62px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979photos div label {
color:#666666;font-size:10px;overflow:hidden;text-align:center;white-space:nowrap;width:64px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979reco-category {
font-size:77%;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979reco-desc {
font-size:77%;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979replbq {
margin:4px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-actbar div a:first-child {
margin-right:2px;padding-right:5px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg {
font-size:13px;font-family:Arial, helvetica, clean,
sans-serif;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg table {
font-size:inherit;font:100%;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg select,
#yiv0455604979 input, #yiv0455604979 textarea {
font:99% Arial, Helvetica, clean, sans-serif;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg pre, #yiv0455604979
code {
font:115% monospace;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg * {
line-height:1.22em;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg #yiv0455604979logo {
padding-bottom:10px;}


#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-msg p a {
font-family:Verdana;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-msg
p#yiv0455604979attach-count span {
color:#1E66AE;font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-reco
#yiv0455604979reco-head {
color:#ff7900;font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-reco {
margin-bottom:20px;padding:0px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor #yiv0455604979ov
li a {
font-size:130%;text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor #yiv0455604979ov
li {
font-size:77%;list-style-type:square;padding:6px 0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor #yiv0455604979ov
ul {
margin:0;padding:0 0 0 8px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-text {
font-family:Georgia;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-text p {
margin:0 0 1em 0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-text tt {
font-size:120%;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-vital ul li:last-child {
border-right:none !important;
}
#yiv0455604979




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rudder packing

James Alton
 

Take care using graphite packing on stainless shafts.  Graphite is a metal that is higher on the galvanic scale than stainless and I have encountered problems with pitting.  The Teflon impregnated packing seems to work quite well for me.
 
Best,
 
James
 
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: christian alby calbyy@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Sep 15, 2016 6:56 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rudder packing

 
good day
do not remove the Delrin ring at the bottom; It is inserted in the stratification of the hull & meant to hold the packing when compressed by the top nut (screwed on).
to prevent leaks select proper size & material
on our Maramu we use for packing  'Tresse graphitée special marine (by Maucour BTR.73.C08) - 8 mm2' - guess it will be the same on your SM.
cut to size (190 mm lgth on Maramu), slanted cut shape to block it when compressing; mount around rudder shaft, use grease to improve contact with shaft & do not tighten immediatly - let sea water wet it & gorge it nicely; tighten progressively until no more water creeps up.
took 2 days to reach dry condition.
Note : shipchandlers have proper packing, different makes & grease ... key is to tighten progressively avoid displacement when compressed.
fair winds
Maramu 116 Désirade VIII in Canet Roussillon - C&M Alby

Christian Alby - France home fixe +33 (0)5 34 39 06 02 home Internet +33 (0)9 60 37 22 72 mobile +33 (0)6 42 69 07 80



De : "'gtesta23@...' gtesta23@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
À : amelyachtowners@...
Cc : richard03801@...
Envoyé le : Mardi 13 septembre 2016 16h19
Objet : [Amel Yacht Owners] rudder packing

 
 
To all,
I'm on the way to replace the rudder packing...too much leakage after turning the nut twice.
I have removed the big white nut, not the hold packing,
The issue is that now I see on the bottom a white ring without any cut on it, as my new packing rings have.
It seams to me very hard and difficult to remove.
Before to do any damage drilling it to fix 2 screw and to pull it out
I wish to know if you had similar experience.
I know the previous posts about it ( by Bill and Richard )
Thanks so much for your support....the day after tomorrow I have to return on the water.
Giovanni TESTA
sv EUTIKIA SM 428
La Reunion



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Siphoning Effect of Diesel Fuel Return line

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Alan,

We are not discussing the vent line, where as you note a syphon would not be possible, rather the fuel return line which brings excess fuel from the main engine and generator back to the tank.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Underway, south to the Chesapeake Bay


On Sep 15, 2016, at 03:03, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

You're going to have to explain that to me.]
i don't understand how fuel could siphon out of the vent line.
Surely a siphon only works if the outlet is lower than the liquid level?
If the vent outlet was lower than the top of the tank, or could be when heeled, then I could understand that it could happen.
The vent in my boat comes from the fuel filler in the cockpit locker and exits on the stbd side much higher than the top of the tank.
I'm interested to hear your view.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Ile des Pins


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Siphoning Effect of Diesel Fuel Return line

Alan Leslie
 

Bill,
You're going to have to explain that to me.]
i don't understand how fuel could siphon out of the vent line.
Surely a siphon only works if the outlet is lower than the liquid level?
If the vent outlet was lower than the top of the tank, or could be when heeled, then I could understand that it could happen.
The vent in my boat comes from the fuel filler in the cockpit locker and exits on the stbd side much higher than the top of the tank.
I'm interested to hear your view.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Ile des Pins


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rudder packing

christian alby <calbyy@...>
 

good day
do not remove the Delrin ring at the bottom; It is inserted in the stratification of the hull & meant to hold the packing when compressed by the top nut (screwed on).
to prevent leaks select proper size & material
on our Maramu we use for packing  'Tresse graphitée special marine (by Maucour BTR.73.C08) - 8 mm2' - guess it will be the same on your SM.
cut to size (190 mm lgth on Maramu), slanted cut shape to block it when compressing; mount around rudder shaft, use grease to improve contact with shaft & do not tighten immediatly - let sea water wet it & gorge it nicely; tighten progressively until no more water creeps up.
took 2 days to reach dry condition.
Note : shipchandlers have proper packing, different makes & grease ... key is to tighten progressively avoid displacement when compressed.
fair winds
Maramu 116 Désirade VIII in Canet Roussillon - C&M Alby

Christian Alby - France home fixe +33 (0)5 34 39 06 02 home Internet +33 (0)9 60 37 22 72 mobile +33 (0)6 42 69 07 80



De : "'gtesta23@...' gtesta23@... [amelyachtowners]"
À : amelyachtowners@...
Cc : richard03801@...
Envoyé le : Mardi 13 septembre 2016 16h19
Objet : [Amel Yacht Owners] rudder packing

 
 
To all,
I'm on the way to replace the rudder packing...too much leakage after turning the nut twice.
I have removed the big white nut, not the hold packing,
The issue is that now I see on the bottom a white ring without any cut on it, as my new packing rings have.
It seams to me very hard and difficult to remove.
Before to do any damage drilling it to fix 2 screw and to pull it out
I wish to know if you had similar experience.
I know the previous posts about it ( by Bill and Richard )
Thanks so much for your support....the day after tomorrow I have to return on the water.
Giovanni TESTA
sv EUTIKIA SM 428
La Reunion



Custom Cockpit Table for Maramu

mr_hermanns
 

Hey there Maramu Owners!


I am having a custom table built for the cockpit of Cerulean, and we have a custom design that Im in love with and wanted to share that features the Amel Logo inlaid.


The Tables will be approx. ~$1800 a piece, due to the custom inlays and size - but wanted to see if anyone else wanted me to get one made so I can ask for a discount.


It has extending leafs/sides:

https://svcerulean.files.wordpress.com/2016/09/screen-shot-2016-09-14-at-9-08-42-am.png

&

https://svcerulean.files.wordpress.com/2016/09/screen-shot-2016-09-14-at-9-08-47-am.png


We're mounting a simple 2"Aluminum Pedestal Pole (Garelick flush mount version) on-top of the Engine Hatch, and its 100% removable....to stow away. 


The finish is going to look like this:

https://svcerulean.files.wordpress.com/2016/09/screen-shot-2016-09-14-at-12-57-39-pm.png


I'm placing the order now, we won't go into production (hand crafted of course) until November, so hoping for December or Jan delivery.


IF ANYONE Else is interested hit me up, I'll see if we can get a discount (my assumption is 10-20% off at the most, but worth asking).


They are made here in Cali by a reputable craftsman who does tables for MUCH larger Yachts and I just love his work.


-Jer


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How long do your Hot Water Heaters Last?

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

Our Nautic Boiler lasted 14 years (boat was used infrequently).  However I believe internal heat exchanger was leaking for some time.  Eventually leak grew substantial causing freshwater to be leaked into Yanmar cooling system diluting anti-freeze and causing coolant to overflow.  This caused a minor mess but no real damage.  I was more concerned about anti-freeze from Yanmar getting into freshwater in water heater.  I would highly recommend proactively replacing these units before they fail.  No fun doing this remotely in a rolly harbor.

By the way, original unit was 45 liter.  New Nautic Boilers are not available in 45L. You can use 40 or 50 liter units.  I used 40 but in retrospect a 50 liter unit may have been a better fit.  But measure first.

Ben 

Ben and Gayle
La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Sep 14, 2016, at 7:15 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Mine, also Nautic Boiler, lasted about 5 years.  The first on failed in the heat exchanger coil (the symptom was a rising level of engine coolant in the overflow tank).  The whole unit had to be replaced.  That one has failed after 3 years in the 220AC heating element and/or thermostat.  I will replace those parts and hope the whole unit doesn't need replacing.
I would carry a spare heating element and thermostat.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 14, 2016, at 9:55 AM, colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Our 2001 model SM has a 2008 model Nautic Boiler 40L / 800W hot water system fitting which looks in excellent condition externally, however our heater element failed a little while back and we were just in the process of replacing the element.


A Yanmar mechanic quoting on servicing the motor this week suggested we consider replacing the entire hot water unit now anyway, ahead of a circumnavigation, as he had too often seen older hot water units ruin perfectly good engines over time. I do not think the mechanic was trying to profit from this as he did not supply hot water units and also had no extra time to fit a new one either.


It would be interesting to know the average lifespan of the hot water systems on other Amels in the group? Is 8 years too long or really pretty good for some years ahead still?


Colin & Lauren Streeter

Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332 





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

eric freedman
 

Mine has been perfect for 14 years now.

Last fall I removed it to check the connections and it was perfectly clean with the ame gel on the contacts and no rust or water leaks.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2016 9:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

 

 

Thanks Mark,

 

I’ll put Aquasignal lights on my “black list.”

 

 

Bill Kinney

SM #160, Harmonie

Newport, RI, USA

“Ships and men rot in port."

 

 

 

 

On Sep 14, 2016, at 08:18, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

My two cents: The AquaSignal unit is not sealed. It is junk. After two AquaSignal unit failures, I installed the more expensive SignalMate unit. It is a much higher quality construction than AquaSignal. SignalMate is a truly sealed unit and much easier to install. A quick Google search will show you I am not alone with my opinion and troubles with AquaSignal.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Tampa Bay for hurricane season

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 9:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

 

  

Pat,

 

Hella, SignalMate and AquaSignal all make sealed LED fixtures that have an operating voltage range of 9 to 33 Volts.

 

One of the real advantages of using an LED designed fixture instead of an LED bulb in a traditional fixture is that the LED fixture can be made really, truly, waterproof. I have had trouble with contact corrosion using LED bulbs in regular navigation light fixtures.

 

Bill

 

 

On Sep 13, 2016, at 13:03, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Bill, I am glad to hear that the instruments are fine up to 30v, it should never get there. Do you have a tri-color you would recommend that runs on 24v. ? I looked at the one Eric mentioned a few days ago , but it listed it as operating between 11.6 v to 16v.

Thanks,

Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Sep 13, 2016 9:42 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

 

Pat,

 

First, do not worry about your instruments.  Modern sailing instruments are designed to run on normal system voltages from 10 to 30 volts and will have no problem with running off the 24V side of the Amel electrical system--unless your charging system is seriously out of whack.  

 

As I upgrade my instruments from the 70’s era “vintage” models, fewer and fewer things are connected to the 12V converters. Remember, those converters were installed because 24 volt instruments of a quality that Amel wanted were not available back in the mid 70’s when 24 volts boats were much rarer than then are today. They are never quite going to go away, because I still need a 12V source for my NMEA2000 network backbone, if for nothing else.

 

There is one place where the converter is a great solution:  running an SSB off it’s own dedicated converter. Boats with 12 Volt only systems can have a lot of trouble keeping the voltage up high enough (13.4V) to properly drive an SSB during transmissions without a charging source running.  That big converter makes our SSB installations work better than a lot of other boats.

 

If you have batteries that require occasional high voltage equalization, it is just good practice to turn everything off while that process is going on, including your 24 to 12 volt converters.  

 

Not all Amel’s have the navigation lights run off the converter.  Mine does not. They have always run directly off 24 volts, and work fine. 

 

To be honest, I am mystified why anybody would still be fussing with incandescent lamps on the top of the mast.  For me at least, the hassle of changing a masthead light is well worth the cost and effort of a well made, internally voltage stabilized, waterproof, LED fixture. Even if I wasn’t concerned about power draw at all, (and I am!) the mast head would be an LED fixture. It is mature technology these days, and well made ones do not require separate, external, voltage regulators. 

 

Bill Kinney

SM #160, Harmonie

Newport, RI, USA

“Ships and men rot in port."

 

 

 

 

On Sep 13, 2016, at 08:47, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

I have had all new instruments installed on my boat . Without  being consulted the electrician removed the 24 to 12v converter next to the head and installed 24v bulbs in mast head fixture. Thinking it was something the previous owner installed , I did not object , not knowing it stabilized the current as well as converted it. From the beginning , Joel advised me not to change things electrically, I value his opinions and tried to follow them. When I brought this up to the electrician , he asked me why all boats don't have a stabilizer if necessary. I want to discuss this further with him , but how do I answer the logical question . Other boats have generators and engines that increase voltage , how is that they don't require a stabilizer ? Secondly , they powered all my new instruments with 24v . Are they going to be prone to failure ? I want to have any changes done , if necessary before getting my boat back within the next week or so.

Thanks,

Pat SM123

-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Sep 7, 2016 8:33 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

 

I believe that the charging voltage is, 28.8 absorption and 32+ equalization, transmitted to the Masthead lights.

 

Kent

SM243

Kristy 


On Sep 7, 2016, at 4:14 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

No I don't think so....you can't get voltage surges with a big battery bank.

IF it could possibly happen you'd be having all sorts of issues with lamps and other 24VDC devices.

The ONLY way you MIGHT have an issue with this would be if you used the EQUALISE cycle on your battery charger while the masthead light was on. The EQUALISE cycle raises the voltage to around 32VDC for a while, but that is something you would rarely do, possibly only if you had flooded batteries that you suspected of being sulphated, and if you know about equalising batteries, you would also know to turn off anything on the DC circuit before starting to do it.

Its much more likely that you have bad connections, salt water ingress into the lamp holder.....

Cheers

Alan

Elyse SM437

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


R: [Amel Yacht Owners] How long do your Hot Water Heaters Last?

Giovanni TESTA
 

HI,
a Yanmar technician suggested me to put 2 valve ( engine side) on 2 connections between engine and boiler
so you may, in doubt, to exclude a broken boiler
and to use the engine without any problem.-
I have a Quick 40, no problem for 15 years. I have replaced this year the spiral element because in short.
Buon Vento
Giovanni TESTA
sv EUTIKIA SM 428 ( 2004)
La Reunion

---Messaggio originale----
Da: amelyachtowners@...
Data: 14-set-2016 15.55
A:
Ogg: [Amel Yacht Owners] How long do your Hot Water Heaters Last?



----Messaggio originale----
Da: amelyachtowners@...
Data: 14-set-2016 15.55
A:
Ogg: [Amel Yacht Owners] How long do your Hot Water Heaters Last?

 

Our 2001 model SM has a 2008 model Nautic Boiler 40L / 800W hot water system fitting which looks in excellent condition externally, however our heater element failed a little while back and we were just in the process of replacing the element.


A Yanmar mechanic quoting on servicing the motor this week suggested we consider replacing the entire hot water unit now anyway, ahead of a circumnavigation, as he had too often seen older hot water units ruin perfectly good engines over time. I do not think the mechanic was trying to profit from this as he did not supply hot water units and also had no extra time to fit a new one either.


It would be interesting to know the average lifespan of the hot water systems on other Amels in the group? Is 8 years too long or really pretty good for some years ahead still?


Colin & Lauren Streeter

Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332 







Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SIPHON BREAK USING A VENTED LOOP -RAW WATER ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Alex,

This is an Amel installation.  

There is no need for a valve in this installation.  When the engine is running, water comes out into the cockpit drain gutter and drains away.  When the engine stops, air goes in and breaks the syphon.

Those fussy little rubber valves in standard anti-syphon loops are a real source of trouble.  They can fail open and spray saltwater all over your engine room, or fail closed and let water syphon back to your engine. 

Bill Kinney
SM #160 Harmonie
Newport, RI, USA


On Sep 7, 2016, at 19:01, 'Alex Paquin' alex.paquin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Dear Alexander,
Many thanks for your email, very interesting thank you. Was this an original Amel installation on your boat?
One question, I don´t see a breathing (venting) valve on either loops. Can it work that way?
I enjoy very much your very orderly way of describing and documenting your work onboard. Very useful indeed.
Best regards,
Alex Paquin

-----Original Message-----
From: Alexandre Uster von Baar [mailto:uster@...]
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2016 5:54 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Cc: alex.paquin@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SIPHON BREAK USING A VENTED LOOP -RAW WATER ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM

Good afternoon Alex,

Here is a picture of the anti- siphon on my vessel, I have the Volvo TMD 22 P http://www.nikimat.com/volvo_tmd22p_missing_hoses/volvo_tmd22p_missing_hoses_4.jpg
Don’t look at the arrows, they are for something else.
The BIG black hose is the exhaust.
Behind it is a yellow/black hose going to the top of the picture to a metallic half circle, that is the anti- siphon.

I will also sent you directly via email a page of the SM2K Owner Manual showing the Yanmar anti- siphon.
Let me know if you receive it.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 9/7/16, alex.paquin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] SIPHON BREAK USING A VENTED LOOP -RAW WATER ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, September 7, 2016, 2:32 PM












Good
afternoon, does anyone have
images or a diagram of an anti- siphon installation on the raw water side of the engine cooling system? I am considering this step in addition to a few others to avoid water backing into the engine exhaust system on the Yanmar 4JH4-HTE (repowered) on our Older Maramu.
Alex PaquinSIMPATICOOlder Maramu Hull #94,
1981
















Posted by: alex.paquin@...




Reply
via web post


Reply to sender


Reply to group

Start a New
Topic

Messages in this topic
(1)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Siphoning Effect of Diesel Fuel Return line

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Colin,

When it happened to me (while working on the engine), I simply disconnected the return line.
All depends in how much time you will address the Onan fuel filter…

Sincerely, Alexandre




--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 9/14/16, colin.d.streeter@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Siphoning Effect of Diesel Fuel Return line
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, September 14, 2016, 8:30 AM


 









The fuel filter on SM
#332 has developed an annoying "drip" leak from
the Onan's fuel filter unit. We have some surface rust
on the filter housing and on the fuel pump which is limited
to just those two units since they are located directly
below the sea water pump and we had sea water on them during
an impeller change at sea and I embarrassingly forgot to
come back and clean it up when back in
port.
Anyhow, I
turned off the main fuel shut off valve, assuming that would
stop the drip effect till I replace both the fuel filter
housing/filter and fuel pump, but have now discovered the
same problem as mentioned in an earlier post (some related
comments pasted below)... ie. the drip simply continues on
as the fuel is actually siphoning back into the filter
through the diesel return line!!
Since our tank is near full I am loathed to
drain it ahead of changing these units out. I find it
somewhat annoying that I cannot stop that leak via a shut
off valve, but also fully understand why Amel did not put
one on as should it was accidentally left closed whilst
running the engines then very serious damage would be
incurred.
Any
suggestions? I find myself somewhat tempted to put a shut
off valve on that return line but would be interested in the
wisdom of the group regarding the pro's & cons
first, or any better solutions, as it would be the first
time I've ever changed any original Amel spec on
#332.
Colin
Streeter, Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332, Brisbane.
Australia


I've copied Bills
comments below on this same topic
---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com,
<greatketch@...> wrote :

It is entirely possible that
my fear of boat fires is making me irrational. So anybody
should feel free to come to an alternative conclusion about
risks and benefits without me thinking they are crazy.

I have seen four boats on
fire. Two I put out, two I watched burn to the waterline.
The idea that I could syphon 200 liters (or 100, or 50) of
diesel fuel into an engine room fire with no way to stop it,
just strikes me as terrifying.

The remote handle for the bottom valve is there
to shut the valve in case of fire. It says so right on the
handle. That’s the logic Amel used for the design of that
valve. It is good logic. It is smart, it is as safe as it
can be. I like that approach. Every other boat I have had
had a similar arrangement. 

If you accept that logic I don’t see how you
can avoid thinking the syphoning return line should have the
same arrangement. It would feed fuel to a fire also. Why is
fuel that syphons out of the tank less hazardous during a
fire than fuel from the bottom?

Enough said. 

IF I find that the return line DOES syphon on
my boat, I will install a remote handled valve to shut it
off. Just like Amel did for the main fuel line. If that is
the case, I’ll post pictures and a description of what I
did. 










#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979 --
#yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp {
border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px
0;padding:0 10px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp hr {
border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp #yiv0455604979hd {
color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px
0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp #yiv0455604979ads {
margin-bottom:10px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp .yiv0455604979ad {
padding:0 0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp .yiv0455604979ad p {
margin:0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mkp .yiv0455604979ad a {
color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}
#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor
#yiv0455604979ygrp-lc {
font-family:Arial;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor
#yiv0455604979ygrp-lc #yiv0455604979hd {
margin:10px
0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor
#yiv0455604979ygrp-lc .yiv0455604979ad {
margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979actions {
font-family:Verdana;font-size:11px;padding:10px 0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity {
background-color:#e0ecee;float:left;font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;padding:10px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity span {
font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity span:first-child {
text-transform:uppercase;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity span a {
color:#5085b6;text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity span span {
color:#ff7900;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979activity span
.yiv0455604979underline {
text-decoration:underline;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979attach {
clear:both;display:table;font-family:Arial;font-size:12px;padding:10px
0;width:400px;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979attach div a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979attach img {
border:none;padding-right:5px;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979attach label {
display:block;margin-bottom:5px;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979attach label a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 blockquote {
margin:0 0 0 4px;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979bold {
font-family:Arial;font-size:13px;font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979bold a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 dd.yiv0455604979last p a {
font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 dd.yiv0455604979last p span {
margin-right:10px;font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 dd.yiv0455604979last p
span.yiv0455604979yshortcuts {
margin-right:0;}

#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979attach-table div div a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979attach-table {
width:400px;}

#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979file-title a, #yiv0455604979
div.yiv0455604979file-title a:active, #yiv0455604979
div.yiv0455604979file-title a:hover, #yiv0455604979
div.yiv0455604979file-title a:visited {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979photo-title a,
#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979photo-title a:active,
#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979photo-title a:hover,
#yiv0455604979 div.yiv0455604979photo-title a:visited {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 div#yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg
#yiv0455604979ygrp-msg p a span.yiv0455604979yshortcuts {
font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;font-weight:normal;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979green {
color:#628c2a;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979MsoNormal {
margin:0 0 0 0;}

#yiv0455604979 o {
font-size:0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979photos div {
float:left;width:72px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979photos div div {
border:1px solid
#666666;min-height:62px;overflow:hidden;width:62px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979photos div label {
color:#666666;font-size:10px;overflow:hidden;text-align:center;white-space:nowrap;width:64px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979reco-category {
font-size:77%;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979reco-desc {
font-size:77%;}

#yiv0455604979 .yiv0455604979replbq {
margin:4px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-actbar div a:first-child {
margin-right:2px;padding-right:5px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg {
font-size:13px;font-family:Arial, helvetica, clean,
sans-serif;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg table {
font-size:inherit;font:100%;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg select,
#yiv0455604979 input, #yiv0455604979 textarea {
font:99% Arial, Helvetica, clean, sans-serif;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg pre, #yiv0455604979
code {
font:115% monospace;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg * {
line-height:1.22em;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-mlmsg #yiv0455604979logo {
padding-bottom:10px;}


#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-msg p a {
font-family:Verdana;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-msg
p#yiv0455604979attach-count span {
color:#1E66AE;font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-reco
#yiv0455604979reco-head {
color:#ff7900;font-weight:700;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-reco {
margin-bottom:20px;padding:0px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor #yiv0455604979ov
li a {
font-size:130%;text-decoration:none;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor #yiv0455604979ov
li {
font-size:77%;list-style-type:square;padding:6px 0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-sponsor #yiv0455604979ov
ul {
margin:0;padding:0 0 0 8px;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-text {
font-family:Georgia;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-text p {
margin:0 0 1em 0;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-text tt {
font-size:120%;}

#yiv0455604979 #yiv0455604979ygrp-vital ul li:last-child {
border-right:none !important;
}
#yiv0455604979


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How long do your Hot Water Heaters Last?

karkauai
 

Mine, also Nautic Boiler, lasted about 5 years.  The first on failed in the heat exchanger coil (the symptom was a rising level of engine coolant in the overflow tank).  The whole unit had to be replaced.  That one has failed after 3 years in the 220AC heating element and/or thermostat.  I will replace those parts and hope the whole unit doesn't need replacing.
I would carry a spare heating element and thermostat.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 14, 2016, at 9:55 AM, colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Our 2001 model SM has a 2008 model Nautic Boiler 40L / 800W hot water system fitting which looks in excellent condition externally, however our heater element failed a little while back and we were just in the process of replacing the element.


A Yanmar mechanic quoting on servicing the motor this week suggested we consider replacing the entire hot water unit now anyway, ahead of a circumnavigation, as he had too often seen older hot water units ruin perfectly good engines over time. I do not think the mechanic was trying to profit from this as he did not supply hot water units and also had no extra time to fit a new one either.


It would be interesting to know the average lifespan of the hot water systems on other Amels in the group? Is 8 years too long or really pretty good for some years ahead still?


Colin & Lauren Streeter

Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332 





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Siphoning Effect of Diesel Fuel Return line

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

This has come up before before on the forum.  The first time I saw it discussed I admit I refused to believe that Amel could have built a tank with such an issue.  So I tested mine, and sure enough, if the tank is full, it will syphon out of the vent line.

I think it is a serious safety issue.  After all, Amel thought is was important enough to put a fire shut off valve on the main feed line in case of fire, having fire fuel syphon out of the vent line is a significant oversight.

I have been working on (i.e.,  thinking about) a fix, but don’t yet have it completely sorted out.  

For maintenance work, a valve in the line does fix the issue, but it doesn’t address the fire safety problem.

If this was a properly designed industrial tank, the vent line’s extension into the tank would have a small hole drilled into it right inside the tank to act as a syphon break.  Since Amel welded the vent line into the tank, without access there is no simple way to do that.  My best thinking right now is put an access port in the tank near the vent return and adding a anti-syphon hole inside the tank.  That’s a bit of a project.  

Another, easier, less invasive, idea would be a suitable non-return valve in the vent line at the top of the tank.  

Those are my best potential solutions at this point. 

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Newport, RI, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 14, 2016, at 09:30, colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


The fuel filter on SM #332 has developed an annoying "drip" leak from the Onan's fuel filter unit. We have some surface rust on the filter housing and on the fuel pump which is limited to just those two units since they are located directly below the sea water pump and we had sea water on them during an impeller change at sea and I embarrassingly forgot to come back and clean it up when back in port.


Anyhow, I turned off the main fuel shut off valve, assuming that would stop the drip effect till I replace both the fuel filter housing/filter and fuel pump, but have now discovered the same problem as mentioned in an earlier post (some related comments pasted below)... ie. the drip simply continues on as the fuel is actually siphoning back into the filter through the diesel return line!!


Since our tank is near full I am loathed to drain it ahead of changing these units out. I find it somewhat annoying that I cannot stop that leak via a shut off valve, but also fully understand why Amel did not put one on as should it was accidentally left closed whilst running the engines then very serious damage would be incurred.


Any suggestions? I find myself somewhat tempted to put a shut off valve on that return line but would be interested in the wisdom of the group regarding the pro's & cons first, or any better solutions, as it would be the first time I've ever changed any original Amel spec on #332.


Colin Streeter, Island Pearl II, 

Amel 53 #332, Brisbane. Australia




I've copied Bills comments below on this same topic


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

It is entirely possible that my fear of boat fires is making me irrational. So anybody should feel free to come to an alternative conclusion about risks and benefits without me thinking they are crazy.

I have seen four boats on fire. Two I put out, two I watched burn to the waterline. The idea that I could syphon 200 liters (or 100, or 50) of diesel fuel into an engine room fire with no way to stop it, just strikes me as terrifying.

The remote handle for the bottom valve is there to shut the valve in case of fire. It says so right on the handle. That’s the logic Amel used for the design of that valve. It is good logic. It is smart, it is as safe as it can be. I like that approach. Every other boat I have had had a similar arrangement. 

If you accept that logic I don’t see how you can avoid thinking the syphoning return line should have the same arrangement. It would feed fuel to a fire also. Why is fuel that syphons out of the tank less hazardous during a fire than fuel from the bottom?

Enough said. 

IF I find that the return line DOES syphon on my boat, I will install a remote handled valve to shut it off. Just like Amel did for the main fuel line. If that is the case, I’ll post pictures and a description of what I did. 





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Siphoning Effect of Diesel Fuel Return line

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Thanks Derick
I will have another look in the morning but am pretty sure there is no shut off there. that is exactly where I intended to place the valve too. Nice to hear that someone else has installed one.
Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II #332

On Wed, Sep 14, 2016 at 11:56 PM, derickgates@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Colin,


Brava does have a return line shutoff.  It is located just under the starboard aft corner of the engine room hatch. Having lost several hundred liters of diesel fuel into the bilges (and pumped overboard by the bilge pump) due to a ruptured fuel line that occurred on land during hurricane season storage, I now religiously turn off both the remote main fuel cutoff in the passageway and the return line cutoff whenever leaving the boat for any length of time.

Is it possible that you have this return line cutoff and never noticed it?  True, it is not remote, and would be problematic to reach in the case of an engine room fire.  You would have to open th engine room hatch.  Let me know if you work out a remote cutoff solution.

My return line cutoff may have been installed by the previous owner when he installed a spare 250 L aluminum tank in the life raft locker for extra diesel.  The lines from this tank are plumbed into the main system so that you can chose to shut off the main tank (at both supply and return) and open the valves to the spare tank (supply and return) or shut the four valves off to prevent siphoning from either tank when changing fuel filters etc. 

Derick Gates
SM2K#400 Brava
Currently on the hard in Antigua for hurricane season




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: Siphoning Effect of Diesel Fuel Return line

Derick Gates
 

Colin,

Brava does have a return line shutoff.  It is located just under the starboard aft corner of the engine room hatch. Having lost several hundred liters of diesel fuel into the bilges (and pumped overboard by the bilge pump) due to a ruptured fuel line that occurred on land during hurricane season storage, I now religiously turn off both the remote main fuel cutoff in the passageway and the return line cutoff whenever leaving the boat for any length of time.

Is it possible that you have this return line cutoff and never noticed it?  True, it is not remote, and would be problematic to reach in the case of an engine room fire.  You would have to open th engine room hatch.  Let me know if you work out a remote cutoff solution.

My return line cutoff may have been installed by the previous owner when he installed a spare 250 L aluminum tank in the life raft locker for extra diesel.  The lines from this tank are plumbed into the main system so that you can chose to shut off the main tank (at both supply and return) and open the valves to the spare tank (supply and return) or shut the four valves off to prevent siphoning from either tank when changing fuel filters etc. 

Derick Gates
SM2K#400 Brava
Currently on the hard in Antigua for hurricane season


How long do your Hot Water Heaters Last?

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Our 2001 model SM has a 2008 model Nautic Boiler 40L / 800W hot water system fitting which looks in excellent condition externally, however our heater element failed a little while back and we were just in the process of replacing the element.


A Yanmar mechanic quoting on servicing the motor this week suggested we consider replacing the entire hot water unit now anyway, ahead of a circumnavigation, as he had too often seen older hot water units ruin perfectly good engines over time. I do not think the mechanic was trying to profit from this as he did not supply hot water units and also had no extra time to fit a new one either.


It would be interesting to know the average lifespan of the hot water systems on other Amels in the group? Is 8 years too long or really pretty good for some years ahead still?


Colin & Lauren Streeter

Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332 





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Thanks Mark,

I’ll put Aquasignal lights on my “black list.”


Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Newport, RI, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 14, 2016, at 08:18, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


My two cents: The AquaSignal unit is not sealed. It is junk. After two AquaSignal unit failures, I installed the more expensive SignalMate unit. It is a much higher quality construction than AquaSignal. SignalMate is a truly sealed unit and much easier to install. A quick Google search will show you I am not alone with my opinion and troubles with AquaSignal.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Tampa Bay for hurricane season

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 9:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

 

  

Pat,

 

Hella, SignalMate and AquaSignal all make sealed LED fixtures that have an operating voltage range of 9 to 33 Volts.

 

One of the real advantages of using an LED designed fixture instead of an LED bulb in a traditional fixture is that the LED fixture can be made really, truly, waterproof. I have had trouble with contact corrosion using LED bulbs in regular navigation light fixtures.

 

Bill

 

 

On Sep 13, 2016, at 13:03, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Bill, I am glad to hear that the instruments are fine up to 30v, it should never get there. Do you have a tri-color you would recommend that runs on 24v. ? I looked at the one Eric mentioned a few days ago , but it listed it as operating between 11.6 v to 16v.

Thanks,

Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Sep 13, 2016 9:42 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

 

Pat,

 

First, do not worry about your instruments.  Modern sailing instruments are designed to run on normal system voltages from 10 to 30 volts and will have no problem with running off the 24V side of the Amel electrical system--unless your charging system is seriously out of whack.  

 

As I upgrade my instruments from the 70’s era “vintage” models, fewer and fewer things are connected to the 12V converters. Remember, those converters were installed because 24 volt instruments of a quality that Amel wanted were not available back in the mid 70’s when 24 volts boats were much rarer than then are today. They are never quite going to go away, because I still need a 12V source for my NMEA2000 network backbone, if for nothing else.

 

There is one place where the converter is a great solution:  running an SSB off it’s own dedicated converter. Boats with 12 Volt only systems can have a lot of trouble keeping the voltage up high enough (13.4V) to properly drive an SSB during transmissions without a charging source running.  That big converter makes our SSB installations work better than a lot of other boats.

 

If you have batteries that require occasional high voltage equalization, it is just good practice to turn everything off while that process is going on, including your 24 to 12 volt converters.  

 

Not all Amel’s have the navigation lights run off the converter.  Mine does not. They have always run directly off 24 volts, and work fine. 

 

To be honest, I am mystified why anybody would still be fussing with incandescent lamps on the top of the mast.  For me at least, the hassle of changing a masthead light is well worth the cost and effort of a well made, internally voltage stabilized, waterproof, LED fixture. Even if I wasn’t concerned about power draw at all, (and I am!) the mast head would be an LED fixture. It is mature technology these days, and well made ones do not require separate, external, voltage regulators. 

 

Bill Kinney

SM #160, Harmonie

Newport, RI, USA

“Ships and men rot in port."

 

 

 

 

On Sep 13, 2016, at 08:47, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

I have had all new instruments installed on my boat . Without  being consulted the electrician removed the 24 to 12v converter next to the head and installed 24v bulbs in mast head fixture. Thinking it was something the previous owner installed , I did not object , not knowing it stabilized the current as well as converted it. From the beginning , Joel advised me not to change things electrically, I value his opinions and tried to follow them. When I brought this up to the electrician , he asked me why all boats don't have a stabilizer if necessary. I want to discuss this further with him , but how do I answer the logical question . Other boats have generators and engines that increase voltage , how is that they don't require a stabilizer ? Secondly , they powered all my new instruments with 24v . Are they going to be prone to failure ? I want to have any changes done , if necessary before getting my boat back within the next week or so.

Thanks,

Pat SM123

-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Sep 7, 2016 8:33 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

 

I believe that the charging voltage is, 28.8 absorption and 32+ equalization, transmitted to the Masthead lights.

 

Kent

SM243

Kristy 


On Sep 7, 2016, at 4:14 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

No I don't think so....you can't get voltage surges with a big battery bank.

IF it could possibly happen you'd be having all sorts of issues with lamps and other 24VDC devices.

The ONLY way you MIGHT have an issue with this would be if you used the EQUALISE cycle on your battery charger while the masthead light was on. The EQUALISE cycle raises the voltage to around 32VDC for a while, but that is something you would rarely do, possibly only if you had flooded batteries that you suspected of being sulphated, and if you know about equalising batteries, you would also know to turn off anything on the DC circuit before starting to do it.

Its much more likely that you have bad connections, salt water ingress into the lamp holder.....

Cheers

Alan

Elyse SM437

 

 

 

 

 




Siphoning Effect of Diesel Fuel Return line

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

The fuel filter on SM #332 has developed an annoying "drip" leak from the Onan's fuel filter unit. We have some surface rust on the filter housing and on the fuel pump which is limited to just those two units since they are located directly below the sea water pump and we had sea water on them during an impeller change at sea and I embarrassingly forgot to come back and clean it up when back in port.


Anyhow, I turned off the main fuel shut off valve, assuming that would stop the drip effect till I replace both the fuel filter housing/filter and fuel pump, but have now discovered the same problem as mentioned in an earlier post (some related comments pasted below)... ie. the drip simply continues on as the fuel is actually siphoning back into the filter through the diesel return line!!


Since our tank is near full I am loathed to drain it ahead of changing these units out. I find it somewhat annoying that I cannot stop that leak via a shut off valve, but also fully understand why Amel did not put one on as should it was accidentally left closed whilst running the engines then very serious damage would be incurred.


Any suggestions? I find myself somewhat tempted to put a shut off valve on that return line but would be interested in the wisdom of the group regarding the pro's & cons first, or any better solutions, as it would be the first time I've ever changed any original Amel spec on #332.


Colin Streeter, Island Pearl II, 

Amel 53 #332, Brisbane. Australia




I've copied Bills comments below on this same topic


---In amelyachtowners@..., <greatketch@...> wrote :

It is entirely possible that my fear of boat fires is making me irrational. So anybody should feel free to come to an alternative conclusion about risks and benefits without me thinking they are crazy.

I have seen four boats on fire. Two I put out, two I watched burn to the waterline. The idea that I could syphon 200 liters (or 100, or 50) of diesel fuel into an engine room fire with no way to stop it, just strikes me as terrifying.

The remote handle for the bottom valve is there to shut the valve in case of fire. It says so right on the handle. That’s the logic Amel used for the design of that valve. It is good logic. It is smart, it is as safe as it can be. I like that approach. Every other boat I have had had a similar arrangement. 

If you accept that logic I don’t see how you can avoid thinking the syphoning return line should have the same arrangement. It would feed fuel to a fire also. Why is fuel that syphons out of the tank less hazardous during a fire than fuel from the bottom?

Enough said. 

IF I find that the return line DOES syphon on my boat, I will install a remote handled valve to shut it off. Just like Amel did for the main fuel line. If that is the case, I’ll post pictures and a description of what I did. 



Masthead lights that DO last

Craig Briggs
 

I'll second Kent's endorsement of Orca Green - plus excellent customer service when my first one got fried by lightning (viz. good discount on replacement)
Craig SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

I also had trouble getting my aqua signal masthead light to work. I switch to an Orca Green Marine masthead light and have had no further troubles

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 14, 2016, at 8:18 AM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

My two cents: The AquaSignal unit is not sealed. It is junk. After two AquaSignal unit failures, I installed the more expensive SignalMate unit. It is a much higher quality construction than AquaSignal. SignalMate is a truly sealed unit and much easier to install. A quick Google search will show you I am not alone with my opinion and troubles with AquaSignal.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Tampa Bay for hurricane season

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 9:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

 

 

Pat,

 

Hella, SignalMate and AquaSignal all make sealed LED fixtures that have an operating voltage range of 9 to 33 Volts.

 

One of the real advantages of using an LED designed fixture instead of an LED bulb in a traditional fixture is that the LED fixture can be made really, truly, waterproof. I have had trouble with contact corrosion using LED bulbs in regular navigation light fixtures.

 

Bill

 

 

On Sep 13, 2016, at 13:03, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Bill, I am glad to hear that the instruments are fine up to 30v, it should never get there. Do you have a tri-color you would recommend that runs on 24v. ? I looked at the one Eric mentioned a few days ago , but it listed it as operating between 11.6 v to 16v.

Thanks,

Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Sep 13, 2016 9:42 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

 

Pat,

 

First, do not worry about your instruments.  Modern sailing instruments are designed to run on normal system voltages from 10 to 30 volts and will have no problem with running off the 24V side of the Amel electrical system--unless your charging system is seriously out of whack.  

 

As I upgrade my instruments from the 70’s era “vintage” models, fewer and fewer things are connected to the 12V converters. Remember, those converters were installed because 24 volt instruments of a quality that Amel wanted were not available back in the mid 70’s when 24 volts boats were much rarer than then are today. They are never quite going to go away, because I still need a 12V source for my NMEA2000 network backbone, if for nothing else.

 

There is one place where the converter is a great solution:  running an SSB off it’s own dedicated converter. Boats with 12 Volt only systems can have a lot of trouble keeping the voltage up high enough (13.4V) to properly drive an SSB during transmissions without a charging source running.  That big converter makes our SSB installations work better than a lot of other boats.

 

If you have batteries that require occasional high voltage equalization, it is just good practice to turn everything off while that process is going on, including your 24 to 12 volt converters.  

 

Not all Amel’s have the navigation lights run off the converter.  Mine does not. They have always run directly off 24 volts, and work fine. 

 

To be honest, I am mystified why anybody would still be fussing with incandescent lamps on the top of the mast.  For me at least, the hassle of changing a masthead light is well worth the cost and effort of a well made, internally voltage stabilized, waterproof, LED fixture. Even if I wasn’t concerned about power draw at all, (and I am!) the mast head would be an LED fixture. It is mature technology these days, and well made ones do not require separate, external, voltage regulators. 

 

Bill Kinney

SM #160, Harmonie

Newport, RI, USA

“Ships and men rot in port."

 

 

 

 

On Sep 13, 2016, at 08:47, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

I have had all new instruments installed on my boat . Without  being consulted the electrician removed the 24 to 12v converter next to the head and installed 24v bulbs in mast head fixture. Thinking it was something the previous owner installed , I did not object , not knowing it stabilized the current as well as converted it. From the beginning , Joel advised me not to change things electrically, I value his opinions and tried to follow them. When I brought this up to the electrician , he asked me why all boats don't have a stabilizer if necessary. I want to discuss this further with him , but how do I answer the logical question . Other boats have generators and engines that increase voltage , how is that they don't require a stabilizer ? Secondly , they powered all my new instruments with 24v . Are they going to be prone to failure ? I want to have any changes done , if necessary before getting my boat back within the next week or so.

Thanks,

Pat SM123

-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Sep 7, 2016 8:33 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

 

I believe that the charging voltage is, 28.8 absorption and 32+ equalization, transmitted to the Masthead lights.

 

Kent

SM243

Kristy 


On Sep 7, 2016, at 4:14 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

No I don't think so....you can't get voltage surges with a big battery bank.

IF it could possibly happen you'd be having all sorts of issues with lamps and other 24VDC devices.

The ONLY way you MIGHT have an issue with this would be if you used the EQUALISE cycle on your battery charger while the masthead light was on. The EQUALISE cycle raises the voltage to around 32VDC for a while, but that is something you would rarely do, possibly only if you had flooded batteries that you suspected of being sulphated, and if you know about equalising batteries, you would also know to turn off anything on the DC circuit before starting to do it.

Its much more likely that you have bad connections, salt water ingress into the lamp holder.....

Cheers

Alan

Elyse SM437