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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last
Patrick McAneny
Bill, I am glad to hear that the instruments are fine up to 30v, it should never get there. Do you have a tri-color you would recommend that runs on 24v. ? I looked at the one Eric mentioned a few days ago , but it listed it as operating between 11.6 v to 16v.
Thanks,
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Tue, Sep 13, 2016 9:42 am Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last Pat,
First, do not worry about your instruments. Modern sailing instruments are designed to run on normal system voltages from 10 to 30 volts and will have no problem with running off the 24V side of the Amel electrical system--unless your charging system is seriously out of whack.
As I upgrade my instruments from the 70’s era “vintage” models, fewer and fewer things are connected to the 12V converters. Remember, those converters were installed because 24 volt instruments of a quality that Amel wanted were not available back in the mid 70’s when 24 volts boats were much rarer than then are today. They are never quite going to go away, because I still need a 12V source for my NMEA2000 network backbone, if for nothing else.
There is one place where the converter is a great solution: running an SSB off it’s own dedicated converter. Boats with 12 Volt only systems can have a lot of trouble keeping the voltage up high enough (13.4V) to properly drive an SSB during transmissions without a charging source running. That big converter makes our SSB installations work better than a lot of other boats.
If you have batteries that require occasional high voltage equalization, it is just good practice to turn everything off while that process is going on, including your 24 to 12 volt converters.
Not all Amel’s have the navigation lights run off the converter. Mine does not. They have always run directly off 24 volts, and work fine.
To be honest, I am mystified why anybody would still be fussing with incandescent lamps on the top of the mast. For me at least, the hassle of changing a masthead light is well worth the cost and effort of a well made, internally voltage stabilized, waterproof, LED fixture. Even if I wasn’t concerned about power draw at all, (and I am!) the mast head would be an LED fixture. It is mature technology these days, and well made ones do not require separate, external, voltage regulators.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last
svperegrinus@yahoo.com
On Peregrinus, everything and anything that can be plugged into 24V is 24V (even when the manufacturer allows 12V power). We added two boxes of individualised breakers just for the 24V things.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
My logic is that I want as few items as possible to go through the intermediate step of going through a 24V/12V DC-DC converter, in case the converter fails. It is true that on Peregrinus there are three large 24V>12V converters (main/amplifier/ssb), plus we carry a spare Victron converter, so if one converter failed one could re-route power to a surviving converter, but, why risk it? Cheerio, SM2K #350 (2002) At anchor, Capri ---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote : I have had all new instruments installed on my boat . Without being consulted the electrician removed the 24 to 12v converter next to the head and installed 24v bulbs in mast head fixture. Thinking it was something the previous owner installed , I did not object , not knowing it stabilized the current as well as converted it. From the beginning , Joel advised me not to change things electrically, I value his opinions and tried to follow them. When I brought this up to the electrician , he asked me why all boats don't have a stabilizer if necessary. I want to discuss this further with him , but how do I answer the logical question . Other boats have generators and engines that increase voltage , how is that they don't require a stabilizer ? Secondly , they powered all my new instruments with 24v . Are they going to be prone to failure ? I want to have any changes done , if necessary before getting my boat back within the next week or so. Thanks, Pat SM123
-----Original Message----- From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Wed, Sep 7, 2016 8:33 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last I believe that the charging voltage is, 28.8 absorption and 32+ equalization, transmitted to the Masthead lights. Kent SM243 Kristy On Sep 7, 2016, at 4:14 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: No I don't think so....you can't get voltage surges with a big battery bank. IF it could possibly happen you'd be having all sorts of issues with lamps and other 24VDC devices. The ONLY way you MIGHT have an issue with this would be if you used the EQUALISE cycle on your battery charger while the masthead light was on. The EQUALISE cycle raises the voltage to around 32VDC for a while, but that is something you would rarely do, possibly only if you had flooded batteries that you suspected of being sulphated, and if you know about equalising batteries, you would also know to turn off anything on the DC circuit before starting to do it. Its much more likely that you have bad connections, salt water ingress into the lamp holder..... Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last
Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
Bill very well put. Fair Winds Smooth Sailing Capt Richard Piller Newport RI Cell 603 767 5330
On Sep 13, 2016, at 09:42, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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rudder packing
To all,
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Salt Water Manifold
Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
While you are following Capt R’s great advice about replacing your hose clamps, get some of these:
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
http://clamp-aid.com They are very cheap, and I know they save me from lots of scratches and scrapes while working on, or around, hose clamps. That’s pretty much every project on a boat!
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last
Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
Pat,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
First, do not worry about your instruments. Modern sailing instruments are designed to run on normal system voltages from 10 to 30 volts and will have no problem with running off the 24V side of the Amel electrical system--unless your charging system is seriously out of whack. As I upgrade my instruments from the 70’s era “vintage” models, fewer and fewer things are connected to the 12V converters. Remember, those converters were installed because 24 volt instruments of a quality that Amel wanted were not available back in the mid 70’s when 24 volts boats were much rarer than then are today. They are never quite going to go away, because I still need a 12V source for my NMEA2000 network backbone, if for nothing else. There is one place where the converter is a great solution: running an SSB off it’s own dedicated converter. Boats with 12 Volt only systems can have a lot of trouble keeping the voltage up high enough (13.4V) to properly drive an SSB during transmissions without a charging source running. That big converter makes our SSB installations work better than a lot of other boats. If you have batteries that require occasional high voltage equalization, it is just good practice to turn everything off while that process is going on, including your 24 to 12 volt converters. Not all Amel’s have the navigation lights run off the converter. Mine does not. They have always run directly off 24 volts, and work fine. To be honest, I am mystified why anybody would still be fussing with incandescent lamps on the top of the mast. For me at least, the hassle of changing a masthead light is well worth the cost and effort of a well made, internally voltage stabilized, waterproof, LED fixture. Even if I wasn’t concerned about power draw at all, (and I am!) the mast head would be an LED fixture. It is mature technology these days, and well made ones do not require separate, external, voltage regulators.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Salt Water Manifold
Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
Hello Kristy,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Funny you should have learned this point; we do exactly the same… plus we have a bilge water/engine exhaust overheat/genset exhaust overheat alarm(installed. Fat lot of good this will do if you are not onboard. Our practice is to shut off all electrics whenever we leave the boat. i.e no one to monitor? It aint on! Good seamanship really! Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera SM007
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last
Patrick McAneny
I have had all new instruments installed on my boat . Without being consulted the electrician removed the 24 to 12v converter next to the head and installed 24v bulbs in mast head fixture. Thinking it was something the previous owner installed , I did not object , not knowing it stabilized the current as well as converted it. From the beginning , Joel advised me not to change things electrically, I value his opinions and tried to follow them. When I brought this up to the electrician , he asked me why all boats don't have a stabilizer if necessary. I want to discuss this further with him , but how do I answer the logical question . Other boats have generators and engines that increase voltage , how is that they don't require a stabilizer ? Secondly , they powered all my new instruments with 24v . Are they going to be prone to failure ? I want to have any changes done , if necessary before getting my boat back within the next week or so.
Thanks,
Pat SM123
-----Original Message----- From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Wed, Sep 7, 2016 8:33 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last I believe that the charging voltage is, 28.8 absorption and 32+ equalization, transmitted to the Masthead lights.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
No I don't think so....you can't get voltage surges with a big battery bank.
IF it could possibly happen you'd be having all sorts of issues with lamps and other 24VDC devices.
The ONLY way you MIGHT have an issue with this would be if you used the EQUALISE cycle on your battery charger while the masthead light was on. The EQUALISE cycle raises the voltage to around 32VDC for a while, but that is something you would rarely do, possibly only if you had flooded batteries that you suspected of being sulphated, and if you know about equalising batteries, you would also know to turn off anything on the DC circuit before starting to do it.
Its much more likely that you have bad connections, salt water ingress into the lamp holder.....
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Salt Water Manifold
Great suggestion, Richard. A few years ago I was aboard and noticed the bilge pump was running. At quick check showed no fresh water was running in the boat so I looked into the engine room and found that two hose clamps had failed on the output for the air conditioning cooling pump. It was pumping water into the engine room at an incredible rate. I quickly turned off the pump and plugged the hole. The old hose clamps, which I checked regularly had failed at the tightening mechanism, which was not stainless. They had felt tight when I did a cursory check, but had been stuck to the hose and didn't pop open. When the second one failed the pump pushed the hose off and by the time I found the problem, less than a minute, there was ankle deep water in the engine room. I have since bought all stainless hose clamps and replaced every one on the boat. I now turn off the air-conditioners whenever I leave the boat for more than a short time. Kent SM 243 Kristy
On Sep 13, 2016, at 8:05 AM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Hey folks when you are doing all the inspections on the salt water system buy a few boxes of hose clamps and do a replacement project. I've seen more then one boat with leakage due to clamp failure. Not pleasant task but you'll sleep better at night. Fair Winds Smooth Sailing Capt Richard Piller Newport RI Cell 603 767 5330
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Salt Water Manifold
Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
Hey folks when you are doing all the inspections on the salt water system buy a few boxes of hose clamps and do a replacement project. I've seen more then one boat with leakage due to clamp failure. Not pleasant task but you'll sleep better at night. Fair Winds Smooth Sailing Capt Richard Piller Newport RI Cell 603 767 5330
On Sep 12, 2016, at 23:59, kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Sailing Video NY to Santa Marta Colombia nonstop
eric freedman
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Salt Water Manifold
eric freedman
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Joker Valve
eric freedman
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Manifold evolution
svperegrinus@yahoo.com
Kent And Eric,
I had Amel in La Rochelle remove and inspect the manifold for Peregrinus about 14 months ago. They reported it was absolutely clean and just as new. Also, no mollusc growth anywhere. Y It would be quite interesting to determine why some boats (of roughly the same generation) have found their manifolds in such different states. Cheerio, SM2K n. 350 (2002) At anchor, Capri (Italy) ---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote : Hey Eric. When I read and looked at your pictures about your manifold, I took everything apart, mine was clean as a whistle. On Sep 12, 2016, at 2:40 PM, kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Kent, my anchor wash, High pressure wash, and the toilets get their water from the Manifold. You might want to checkout the manifold. Mine was made of copper and rotted away years ago. Fair Winds, Eric SM376 Kimberlite ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" Date: Monday, September 12, 2016 1:24 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Joker Valve To: amelyachtowners@... > No, Eric. On Kristy each head has its own through-hull intake > in the "hall" outside each head. The anchor wash gets its > intake from the one that feeds the forward head. > In the engine room, the manifold feeds the engines, the A/C > cooling pump, and the watetmaker. > Kent > SM 243 > > Kent Robertson > karkauai@... > 828-234-6819 > > On Sep 12, 2016, at 12:57 PM, kimberlite@... > [amelyachtowners] u wrote: > > Kent, > Do you have a Jabsco electric toilet with the water coming from > the manifold via a pump from the engine room? That is how my SM > 376 is arranged. > Fair Winds, > Eric > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" > Date: Monday, September 12, 2016 9:56 am > Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Joker Valve > To: amelyachtowners@... > > > Hmmm. That's on the intake side, the joker valves being on the > > output side. I have a strainer between the stopcock and the > > pump. I'll have to look to see if it has a one way valve as well. > > Thanks. > > I have made a practice of filling the head with fresh water > > every few months or when ever I leave the boat for a week or > > more, and putting some vegetable oil in before flushing it > down. > > I read somewhere that it helps keep the joker valves supple. I > > also ask the crew to flush for a good 10 seconds after using > the > > head to get all debris and urine out of the discharge pipe. I > > have to change joker valves about twice a year with this regimen. > > Kent > > SM243 > > Kristy > > > > Kent Robertson > > karkauai@... > > 828-234-6819 > > > > On Sep 12, 2016, at 9:35 AM, Ian Park parkianj@... > > [amelyachtowners] wrote: > > > > On the hose from the sea cock. It is usual to have a loop in > the > > flexible pipe taking it above the heeled water line. There is > > usually plastic 'u' bend clamped on to the up and down pipes > to > > form the u shape. This bend should have a small screw cap > (like > > a car tyres valve). Inside is a tiny rubber non return valve. > It > > allows air into the pipework to prevent the motion of the boat > > pumping sea water back up the pipe until it siphons back into > > the toilet. > > > > Ian > > > > >
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Intake Manifold (formerly Joker Valve
Doh....I knew that! Kent
On Sep 12, 2016, at 6:07 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Hi Kent, I think if you just type over the old Subject: it will change it - I just did it - see if it works. Craig
---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote : Can someone figure out how to change the heading on these posts about the salt water manifold? That should be something easy to find. Kristy was completed in 1999, but has the "SM2K" on the rail. She must have been one of the first to be called a SM2K Kent SM 243 Kristy On Sep 12, 2016, at 2:48 PM, Joel Potter jfpottercys@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Hi Eric Millennium/2000 series boats brought all sea water in as on yours, through the one intake/mini sea chest. 'Classic' models such as Kent' s also have separate salt water supply for each head and the anchor wash feeds from the forward head feed. You are on the money regarding the manifold. All SM 53's are now in the window of possible failure. Really a bad thing to happen. You all should check the manifold by removing all branch hose/feeds. This is very important as I have been seeing many failures and near failures on boats I have for sale or recently sold. Better safe than sorry. Joel F. Potter THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY 954-812-2485
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[Amel Yacht Owners] salt water manifold
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Hello Kent,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
When you reply, just edit the "subject" like that for example. Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Mon, 9/12/16, Kent Robertson karkauai@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Joker Valve To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, September 12, 2016, 5:04 PM Can someone figure out how to change the heading on these posts about the salt water manifold? That should be something easy to find. Kristy was completed in 1999, but has the "SM2K" on the rail. She must have been one of the first to be called a SM2K KentSM 243Kristy On Sep 12, 2016, at 2:48 PM, Joel Potter jfpottercys@att.net [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Hi Eric Millennium/2000 series boats brought all sea water in as on yours, through the one intake/mini sea chest. 'Classic' models such as Kent' s also have separate salt water supply for each head and the anchor wash feeds from the forward head feed. You are on the money regarding the manifold. All SM 53's are now in the window of possible failure. Really a bad thing to happen. You all should check the manifold by removing all branch hose/feeds. This is very important as I have been seeing many failures and near failures on boats I have for sale or recently sold. Better safe than sorry. Joel F. PotterTHE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY954-812-2485 On Sep 12, 2016, at 2:40 PM, kimberlite@optonline.net [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Kent, my anchor wash, High pressure wash, and the toilets get their water from the Manifold. You might want to checkout the manifold. Mine was made of copper and rotted away years ago. Fair Winds, Eric SM376 Kimberlite ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kent Robertson karkauai@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners]" Date: Monday, September 12, 2016 1:24 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Joker Valve To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com > No, Eric. On Kristy each head has its own through-hull intake > in the "hall" outside each head. The anchor wash gets its > intake from the one that feeds the forward head. > In the engine room, the manifold feeds the engines, the A/C > cooling pump, and the watetmaker. > Kent > SM 243 > > Kent Robertson > karkauai@yahoo.com > 828-234-6819828-234-6819 voice/text > > On Sep 12, 2016, at 12:57 PM, kimberlite@optonline.net > [amelyachtowners] u wrote: > > Kent, > Do you have a Jabsco electric toilet with the water coming from > the manifold via a pump from the engine room? That is how my SM > 376 is arranged. > Fair Winds, > Eric > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kent Robertson karkauai@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners]" > Date: Monday, September 12, 2016 9:56 am > Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Joker Valve > To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com > > > Hmmm. That's on the intake side, the joker valves being on the > > output si! de. I have a strainer between the stopcock and the > > pump. I'll have to look to see if it has a one way valve as well. > > Thanks. > > I have made a practice of filling the head with fresh water > > every few months or when ever I leave the boat for a week or > > more, and putting some vegetable oil in before flushing it > down. > > I read somewhere that it helps keep the joker valves supple. I > > also ask the crew to flush for a good 10 seconds after using > the > > head to get all debris and urine out of the discharge pipe. I > > have to change joker valves about twice a year with this regimen. > > Kent > > SM243 > > Kristy > > > > Kent Robertson > > karkauai@yahoo.com > > 828-234-6819828-234-6819 voice/text > > > > On Sep 12, 2016, at 9:35 AM, Ian Park parkianj@gmail.com > > [amelyachtowners] wrote: > > > > On the hose from the sea cock. It is usual to have a loop in > the > > flexible pipe taking it above the heeled water line. There is > > usually plastic 'u' bend clamped on to the up and down pipes > to > > form the u shape. This bend should have a small screw cap > (like > > a car tyres valve). Inside is a tiny rubber non return valve. > It > > al! lows air into the pipework to prevent the motion of the boat > > pumping sea water back up the pipe until it siphons back into > > the toilet. > > > > Ian > > > > > Call Call from mobile Send SMS Add to Skype You'll need Skype CreditFree via Skype #yiv2423657538 #yiv2423657538 -- #yiv2423657538ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #yiv2423657538 #yiv2423657538ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #yiv2423657538 #yiv2423657538ygrp-mkp #yiv2423657538hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #yiv2423657538 #yiv2423657538ygrp-mkp #yiv2423657538ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #yiv2423657538 #yiv2423657538ygrp-mkp .yiv2423657538ad { padding:0 0;} #yiv2423657538 #yiv2423657538ygrp-mkp .yiv2423657538ad p { margin:0;} #yiv2423657538 #yiv2423657538ygrp-mkp .yiv2423657538ad a { color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} #yiv2423657538 #yiv2423657538ygrp-sponsor 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Intake Manifold (formerly Joker Valve
Hi Kent,
I think if you just type over the old Subject: it will change it - I just did it - see if it works. Craig ---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote : Can someone figure out how to change the heading on these posts about the salt water manifold? That should be something easy to find. Kristy was completed in 1999, but has the "SM2K" on the rail. She must have been one of the first to be called a SM2K Kent SM 243 Kristy On Sep 12, 2016, at 2:48 PM, Joel Potter jfpottercys@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Hi Eric Millennium/2000 series boats brought all sea water in as on yours, through the one intake/mini sea chest. 'Classic' models such as Kent' s also have separate salt water supply for each head and the anchor wash feeds from the forward head feed. You are on the money regarding the manifold. All SM 53's are now in the window of possible failure. Really a bad thing to happen. You all should check the manifold by removing all branch hose/feeds. This is very important as I have been seeing many failures and near failures on boats I have for sale or recently sold. Better safe than sorry. Joel F. Potter THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY 954-812-2485
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Joker Valve
Can someone figure out how to change the heading on these posts about the salt water manifold? That should be something easy to find. Kristy was completed in 1999, but has the "SM2K" on the rail. She must have been one of the first to be called a SM2K Kent SM 243 Kristy
On Sep 12, 2016, at 2:48 PM, Joel Potter jfpottercys@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Hi Eric Millennium/2000 series boats brought all sea water in as on yours, through the one intake/mini sea chest. 'Classic' models such as Kent' s also have separate salt water supply for each head and the anchor wash feeds from the forward head feed. You are on the money regarding the manifold. All SM 53's are now in the window of possible failure. Really a bad thing to happen. You all should check the manifold by removing all branch hose/feeds. This is very important as I have been seeing many failures and near failures on boats I have for sale or recently sold. Better safe than sorry. Joel F. Potter THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY 954-812-2485
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Joker Valve
Hey Eric. When I read and looked at your pictures about your manifold, I took everything apart, mine was clean as a whistle.
On Sep 12, 2016, at 2:40 PM, kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Kent,
my anchor wash, High pressure wash, and the toilets get their water from the Manifold.
You might want to checkout the manifold. Mine was made of copper and rotted away years ago.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM376 Kimberlite
----- Original Message ----- From: "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" Date: Monday, September 12, 2016 1:24 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Joker Valve To: amelyachtowners@... > No, Eric. On Kristy each head has its own through-hull intake > in the "hall" outside each head. The anchor wash gets its > intake from the one that feeds the forward head. > In the engine room, the manifold feeds the engines, the A/C > cooling pump, and the watetmaker. > Kent > SM 243 > > Kent Robertson > karkauai@... > 828-234-6819 > > On Sep 12, 2016, at 12:57 PM, kimberlite@... > [amelyachtowners] u wrote: > > Kent, > Do you have a Jabsco electric toilet with the water coming from > the manifold via a pump from the engine room? That is how my SM > 376 is arranged. > Fair Winds, > Eric > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" > Date: Monday, September 12, 2016 9:56 am > Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Joker Valve > To: amelyachtowners@... > > > Hmmm. That's on the intake side, the joker valves being on the > > output side. I have a strainer between the stopcock and the > > pump. I'll have to look to see if it has a one way valve as well. > > Thanks. > > I have made a practice of filling the head with fresh water > > every few months or when ever I leave the boat for a week or > > more, and putting some vegetable oil in before flushing it > down. > > I read somewhere that it helps keep the joker valves supple. I > > also ask the crew to flush for a good 10 seconds after using > the > > head to get all debris and urine out of the discharge pipe. I > > have to change joker valves about twice a year with this regimen. > > Kent > > SM243 > > Kristy > > > > Kent Robertson > > karkauai@... > > 828-234-6819 > > > > On Sep 12, 2016, at 9:35 AM, Ian Park parkianj@... > > [amelyachtowners] wrote: > > > > On the hose from the sea cock. It is usual to have a loop in > the > > flexible pipe taking it above the heeled water line. There is > > usually plastic 'u' bend clamped on to the up and down pipes > to > > form the u shape. This bend should have a small screw cap > (like > > a car tyres valve). Inside is a tiny rubber non return valve. > It > > allows air into the pipework to prevent the motion of the boat > > pumping sea water back up the pipe until it siphons back into > > the toilet. > > > > Ian > > > > >
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Joker Valve
amelforme
Everyone take notice. I had one completely fail while we were getting ready to head out to sea. Nobody/nothing touched it! The entire manifold could be mangled bare handed. Really scary... Joel THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY 954-812-2485
On Sep 12, 2016, at 2:54 PM, kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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