Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Best bottom paint methods for Caribbean

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ben,

About 9 years ago we had BeBe's bottom sanded and painted with antifouling at Spice Island Marine in Grenada http://spiceislandmarine.com/ If you contact them ask for Suzie and tell her we pointed you to her.

The yard provided and supervised good workers for the job and we supplied a 20 liter pail of InterNational Micron66 that we had bought on sale 6 months prior. The job consisted of:
  1. Haulout 
  2. Pressure
  3. Place on hard stand supports
  4. Lightly sand the entire bottom
  5. Clean the propeller
  6. Paint 2 coats with a roller all over and 1 more coat at the waterline and leading edges. It will take about 18 liters. They supplied all materials except the Micron66
  7. Polish the topsides
Judy and I did the following while the above was being done.
  1. Replace Bow Thruster oil (gear oil 80-90) and seals kit from Amel (normal service)
  2. Replace Bow Thruster Hub from Amel
  3. Replace Wear Bushing and seals from Amel
  4. Replace C Drive oil (Amel now uses 80-90 Gear oil)
  5. Replace Spurs line cutter zinc (available only from Spurz or a dealer)
  6. Replace Rudder zincs
  7. Using an Ohmmeter, check continuity between propeller shaft and rudder zincs (checking bonding)
  8. Use your grease gun to inject waterproof grease the AutoProp, using the grease fitting from AutoProp, and check for blade wobble which is a sign of needed bearing replacement. I think if you plan to own your Amel for a while that you should probably buy a bearing kit from AutoProp to have it when it is necessary to install.
  9. Grease the two head's ball valves by injecting grease from the bottom into and on the interior ball.
Be sure that you have all of the parts, including oil, before hand. I have underlined some of the things that you should have gathered before you haulout. And be sure that you have searched and found the instructions in the Files section of the Amel Owners Group. You should search both Photos and Files for keywords like C Drive, bushing, thruster, propeller.
Did you save the links for the photos of both of these jobs provided by "Alexandre SM2K #289 NIKIMAT"?

You should get a price from Spice Island Marine in Grenada and Peakes in Trinidad and other references on both of these.

Get back to me with questions.

Bill
BeBe

On Fri, Jul 29, 2016 at 1:51 PM, joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Shortly I will haul and paint the bottom of my boat for the first time as a new owner (Feb 15).  Previous boats I painted were smaller and in cooler California waters.   I would appreciate advice on best type of paint, number of coats, need for primer, etc.?  Also recommendations for good yard to have work done would be appreciated.  I'm in Grenada but would travel reasonable distance for quality work and reasonable price.


Thanks

Ben Driver

La Bella Vita

SM 347

Currently in Grenada 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wire tracing engine starting solved.

eric freedman
 

Derick,

I will take some photos when I have a moment. I am hesitant to open up the starter panel up again. I am afraid that something will jiggle loose upon opening.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2016 9:54 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wire tracing engine starting solved.

 

 

Eric,

 

Congratulations!  Thanks for the detailed explanation of what you found.  Is there a chance you took pictures of the connections, the diodes, the solenoids, sensors, etc?  I have sent off for some wire labels (thanks Bill Kinney and Bill Rouse for that suggestion) and intend to label both ends of all these connections to make diagnosis and troubleshooting easier, but every time I look at the wiring I get confused as to what I am looking at and doubts set in.  Pictures would be a great help, especially if annotated.  Like you, I have the Yanmar 100 hp 4JH3-HTE engine.

 

Derick Gates

SM2K#400

Currently on the hard in Antigua for hurricane season


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RE: Wire tracing engine starting solved.

eric freedman
 

Kent,

They used the black split tubing on Kimberlite and then sealed it with black electrical tape , that is where the mess starts after time.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376





From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2016 8:05 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RE: Wire tracing engine starting solved.





Ugh! That doesn't seem very Amel-ish. The guy who did the isolation for Kristy used that black split tubing. Non greasy and easy to remove if needed.

Kent


On Jul 29, 2016, at 12:34 AM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:



Kent,

Thanks—The only real problem is that Amel opened up the harnesses and added the wires and then used black electrical tape to close them up again. Over time the tape gets oily , very sticky and makes a mess when you open up the harness.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376





From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2016 11:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RE: Wire tracing engine starting solved.





Glad you got it figured out, Eric. It's amazing how many issues turn out to be a faulty connection. I guess that's where we should start every time.

Now you have a great understanding of how it's wired and is supposed to work. Time for a glass of wine/beer/rum.

Steady as she goes.

Kent


On Jul 28, 2016, at 6:58 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:





Well,

I found the problems (Occams Razor x2 ).

I examined the wiring diagram for the Yanmar “B” panel grounded to the bock. I found that the switch basically has 3 major connections.

One is the incoming DC positive , the second one is the power on position , idiot lights and panel instrument lights. , the third starts the engine. I had days earlier changed the ignition switch,

These wires are in the triangular shaped connector with three heavy wires.



Once I figured that out I started at the starter motor where the DC+ comes from. I have lots of spares so I changed the starter motor and cleaned the additional wire connectors at the + lug of the starter.

I then opened up the 2 diodes that go to the + lug on the Valeo Solenoid. They were both good. I had previously changed the valeo solenoid.



The purpose of the 2 diodes going to the + lug is to separate the starting and stopping of the engine. Both the start and stop function use the Valeo Solenoid. Incidentally the stop button uses a separate wire not in the triangular connector,

After each operation I tested the engine and panel to see if it would work,



I then changed the black Yanmar solenoid forward of the valeo. This solenoid connects the Battery positive to the starter motor solenoid mounted on the starter motor. It also energizes the positive coil lead on the valeo.



It works like this when you turn on the key the idiot lights go on and the buzzer. When you turn the switch to start, the Valeo closes connecting the battery negative to the block. It also closes the Yanmar solenoid and sends power to the starter motor solenoid. I cleaned every connection and changed all components and I could get the engine to stop but not start.



I then opened up the engine panel. It is literally a rats nest of yanmar and Amel wires.

Many wires go to the VDO gauges that were not standard on the B panel. I cleaned and tightened every connection and all the cable harness connectors. I labeled many wires and sorted them out ,by disconnecting many , and giving them a fair lead to the panel . When I was done I had 4 neat bundles of wires and knew what every wire did.

I turned the key and Bingo. It works.

I believe the problem was caused by corroded power wires at the starter motor, and some corroded connections at the panel. Nothing very bad looking but the combination, I believe reduced the voltage sufficiently to not give enough power to the starting components..

I hope this makes sense, if you have any questions,

Please do not hesitate to drop me a note.



It is unfortunate that Amel did not document the changes that they made to the engines wiring.

But all and all it wound up to be a fun project playing electrician.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

.





From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 12:42 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] What I found in my wire tracing so far.





This is for my 4jh3hte yanmar—

Quite different than the 4hh4



MY PROBLEM



My problem initially was that the engine solenoid that connects the block to the negative battery terminal would not operate. I had to have someone push the button on the solenoid and the engine would start.

I changed the Solenoid (Valeo Brand) and it worked for a few years. Bill posted some of my photos of the solenoid.

However this time changing the solenoid did not work. I then assumed it was the starter switch, I changed that.. Still no luck. I then started to fiddle with the wiring and then the “B” panel refused to light up intermittently. I guess I disconnected something which I will find soon.

Even connecting the heavy lugs on the starter motor and pushing the plunger on the Valeo solenoid would not start the engine.



I checked the other relay made by Yanmar , it was also good. It is used to activate the solenoid on the starter motor. It is larger and black and mounted forward of the Valeo Solenoid.



This is how the Starter circuit is supposed to work when the key is turned to the start position--- the small Yanmar solenoid closes and applies power to the starter motor on the positive side and the Valeo solenoid closes, connecting the block to the negative battery terminal, That should start the engine. This I am positive about. Both coils of the valeo and the Yanmar solenoid receive power from the panel.



Then the tricky wiring starts.

There are 2 red wires going to the positive leg of the Valeo Negative grounding solenoid coil. One operates the solenoid to start the engine, and the other is wired to the stop button for the actuator on the injector pump—WHAT???



Ok upon further investigation I found a diode in each wire so that power coming down the start wire would not also stop the engine at the same time, and vice versa. Yes the diodes are good.

Now I am tracing the wires back to the panel and will try to find an intermittent break in the wires or some other problem. That’s tomorrows problem to solve.

I have been told that some of the yanmar wiring is too small to carry the load of the solenoid coils and fail after time.



ENGINE SENSORS (SENDERS)



With respect to the Sensors on the engine, the Oil, water temperature gauge, and the alternator (12v) have 2 wires each that go to independent VDO gauges mounted next to the “B” Yanmar panel. I know this as a few years ago I got frustrated trying to find the broken temp sender wire in the harness and just ran a new pair of wires directly to the gauges. The red idiot lights , and tach on the panel are Yanmar stock and wired as in the

“B” panel wiring panel drawing.





THE 24 V ALTERNATOR RED LIGHT



I turned the key on my engine B-Type panel and went below and lo and behold the red light was lit.

I never noticed it as I was always above starting the engine. The little black cube of a solenoid which supposedly controls this light is a 12 volt solenoid. I double checked it. I will trace it down tomorrow as it makes no sense with a 24 volt alternator. Possibly this solenoid is not the one for the red light. I should know soon.



Kind of frustrating as I used to be an Electrical Engineer.



Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376















From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 2:53 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: What I found in my wire tracing so far.





Your alternators (24 and 12v) should be wired separately from the engine ground. The main engine isolation solenoid is 12V. The relay which goes to the alternator light must be 24v.



Mine wasn't hooked up when the engine was replaced. I've just been looking at the battery monitor every time I go up and down the steps to confirm that the alternator is charging. With the old Volvo, it would come on when the engine was first started if the rpms were too low, and would go off once the rpm was raised enough to excite the alternator.

Kent

SM243

Kristy
On Jul 25, 2016, at 1:58 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:



I am off to the boat now.

My solenoid is 12 volts and doesn’t make sense if the 24 volt alternator is closing a 12 volt solenoid. Inever saw the red light lit on Kimberlite.



Also I am still having a heck of a time figuring out how Amel wired my engine.

Fair Winds

Eric







From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 1:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wire tracing.





I will check and get back to you...how soon do you need this information?



Bill

BeBe 387



On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 5:34 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:



Bill,

Is the small black relay that is supposed be connected to the red light on your DC panel 12 or 24 volts?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376





From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 1:07 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wire tracing.





Two other ways to label the wire are:

1. A wire tie with a label built into it like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3MM-4MM-5MM-WHITE-NYLON-CABLE-TIES-ZIP-LABLE-TIES-FOR-FASTENING-CABLES-WIRES-/182176919372?var= <http://www.ebay.com/itm/3MM-4MM-5MM-WHITE-NYLON-CABLE-TIES-ZIP-LABLE-TIES-FOR-FASTENING-CABLES-WIRES-/182176919372?var=&hash=item2a6a972f4c:m:msITU1dozImbHlQxDCEkWww> &hash=item2a6a972f4c:m:msITU1dozImbHlQxDCEkWww
2. Or use white shrink wrap on the ends of the wire, then write on the shrink wrap.

I have used both of these. They are each simple and work well. I did not label in French as I believe all of my Amel wires were done at the factory in La Rochelle.



Bill

BeBe 387

Trinidad







On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 4:45 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:



Tracing wires on my Amel SM is a real nightmare. Ten blue wires go into a conduit, 10 come out and not one has a label on either end. You try tugging on the wire you are interested in, and you find the whole bundle is clamped together somewhere along the run, so they all move! It seems the builders had such confidence in their work they couldn't imagine anyone ever needing to repair anything! Previous owners were no better. Very little they did was labeled or documented either.



I learned (the hard way) a long time ago when working on boats to ALWAYS label ALL wires. If you do your own work, make the effort. If you pay someone to do your wiring, make labeling a condition of the contract. If your boat is well labeled, you will pay less to have work done on it in the future!



Even if I am sure I will remember what a wire does, I have learned th at I will forget. In the ideal world, every wire and every hose would be labeled in every compartment it is exposed in. I wish I could say I do that all the time, but it is a goal! Working on a wire that you labeled clearly and helpfully will give you a warm and happy feeling.



But how do you trace them in the first place? You get a "wire tracer/tone generator". They range from US$25 to US$100 or more. Here is an example:

* Sperry Instruments ET64220 Tracker-Tracer.

Amazon carries a wide variety of these. For most purposes on a boat, you can get by with an inexpensive one without a lot of the fancy network options. You clip the tone generator to one end of the wire, which sends an electronic tone down the wire. A handheld receiver makes the tone audible anywhere along the wire. The clos er you are to the right wire, the louder the tone. It's a great help. Much better than tugging on one end and hoping to feel which wire wiggles on the other. They don't work everywhere, all the time, but they make the job a whole lot easier. I wish I had learned about these tools long before I did!


Now, once you trace a wire... label it--right now!!!! Even if it is not the wire you are going to be working on that day. If you know what the wire does, you can put a descriptive label on it. If you do not know what the wire is for, and you figure out where it goes, label each end with a number. It will help the future you!

In fact, tracing wires and labeling them is a great rainy day project! And if you are looking for the best wire labels, I want to know if you find any better than these:

* < span id="productTitle" class="a-size-large">Hellermann Tyton RO514 Rite-On Self-Laminating Labels


Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
"Ships and men rot in port"
Highlands, NJ
http://fetchinketch.net


Re: Wire tracing engine starting solved.

Derick Gates
 

Eric,

Congratulations!  Thanks for the detailed explanation of what you found.  Is there a chance you took pictures of the connections, the diodes, the solenoids, sensors, etc?  I have sent off for some wire labels (thanks Bill Kinney and Bill Rouse for that suggestion) and intend to label both ends of all these connections to make diagnosis and troubleshooting easier, but every time I look at the wiring I get confused as to what I am looking at and doubts set in.  Pictures would be a great help, especially if annotated.  Like you, I have the Yanmar 100 hp 4JH3-HTE engine.

Derick Gates
SM2K#400
Currently on the hard in Antigua for hurricane season


Best bottom paint methods for Caribbean

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

Shortly I will haul and paint the bottom of my boat for the first time as a new owner (Feb 15).  Previous boats I painted were smaller and in cooler California waters.   I would appreciate advice on best type of paint, number of coats, need for primer, etc.?  Also recommendations for good yard to have work done would be appreciated.  I'm in Grenada but would travel reasonable distance for quality work and reasonable price.


Thanks

Ben Driver

La Bella Vita

SM 347

Currently in Grenada 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RE: Wire tracing engine starting solved.

karkauai
 

Ugh!  That doesn't seem very Amel-ish.  The guy who did the isolation for Kristy used that black split tubing.  Non greasy and easy to remove if needed.
Kent

On Jul 29, 2016, at 12:34 AM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Thanks—The only real problem is that Amel opened up the harnesses and added the wires and then used black electrical tape to close them up again. Over time the tape gets oily , very sticky and makes a mess when you open up the harness.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2016 11:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RE: Wire tracing engine starting solved.

 

 

Glad you got it figured out, Eric.  It's amazing how many issues turn out to be a faulty connection.  I guess that's where we should start every time.

Now you have a great understanding of how it's wired and is supposed to work.  Time for a glass of wine/beer/rum.

Steady as she goes.

Kent


On Jul 28, 2016, at 6:58 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Well,

I found the problems (Occams Razor x2 ).

I examined the wiring diagram for the Yanmar “B” panel grounded to the bock. I found that the switch basically has 3 major connections.

One is the incoming DC positive , the second one is the power on position , idiot lights and panel instrument lights. , the third starts the engine. I had days earlier changed the ignition switch,

These wires are in the triangular shaped connector with three heavy wires.

 

Once I figured that out I started at the starter motor where the DC+ comes from. I have lots of spares so I changed the starter motor and cleaned the  additional wire connectors  at the + lug of the starter.

I then opened up the 2 diodes that go to the + lug on the Valeo Solenoid. They were both good. I had previously changed the valeo solenoid.

 

The purpose of the 2 diodes going to the + lug is to separate the starting and stopping of the engine. Both the start and stop function use the Valeo Solenoid. Incidentally the stop button uses a separate wire not in the triangular connector,

After each operation I tested the engine and panel to see if it would work,

 

I then changed the black Yanmar solenoid forward of the valeo. This solenoid connects the Battery positive to the starter motor solenoid mounted on the starter motor. It also energizes the positive coil lead on the valeo.

 

It works like this when you turn on the key the idiot lights go on and the buzzer. When you turn the switch to start, the Valeo closes connecting the battery negative to the block. It also closes the Yanmar solenoid and sends  power to the starter motor solenoid.  I cleaned every connection and changed all components and I could get the engine to stop but not start.

 

I then opened up the engine panel. It is literally a rats nest of yanmar and Amel wires.

Many wires go to the VDO gauges that were not standard on the B panel. I cleaned and tightened every connection and all the cable harness connectors. I labeled many wires and sorted them out ,by disconnecting many , and giving them a fair lead to the panel . When I was done I had 4 neat bundles of wires and knew what every wire did.

I turned the key and Bingo. It works.

I believe the problem was caused by corroded power wires at the starter motor, and some corroded connections at the panel. Nothing very bad looking but the combination, I believe reduced the voltage sufficiently to not give enough power to the starting components..

I hope this makes sense, if you have any questions,

Please do not hesitate to drop me a note.

 

It is unfortunate that Amel did not document the changes that they made to the engines wiring.

But all and all it wound up to be a fun project playing electrician.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

.

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 12:42 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] What I found in my wire tracing so far.

 

 

This is for my 4jh3hte yanmar—

Quite different than the 4hh4

 

MY PROBLEM

 

My problem initially was that the engine solenoid that connects the block to the negative battery terminal would not operate. I had to have someone push the button on the solenoid and the engine would start.

I changed the Solenoid (Valeo Brand) and it worked for a few years. Bill posted some of my photos of the solenoid.

However this time changing the solenoid did not work. I then assumed it was the starter switch, I changed that.. Still no luck. I then started to fiddle with the wiring and then the “B” panel refused to light up  intermittently. I guess I disconnected something which I will find soon.

Even connecting the heavy lugs on the starter motor and pushing the plunger on the Valeo solenoid would not start the engine.

 

I checked the other relay made by Yanmar , it was also good. It is used to activate the solenoid on the starter motor. It is larger and black and mounted forward of the Valeo Solenoid.

 

This is how the Starter circuit is supposed to work when the key is turned to the start position--- the small Yanmar solenoid closes and applies power to the starter motor on the positive side and the Valeo solenoid closes, connecting the block to the negative battery terminal, That should start the engine. This I am positive about. Both coils of the valeo and the Yanmar solenoid receive power from the panel.

 

Then the tricky wiring starts.

There are 2 red wires going to the positive leg of the Valeo Negative grounding solenoid coil. One operates the solenoid to start the engine, and the other is wired to the stop button for the actuator on the injector pump—WHAT???

 

Ok upon further investigation I found a diode in each wire so that power coming down the start wire would not also stop the engine at the same time, and vice versa. Yes the diodes are good.

Now I am tracing the wires back to the panel and will try to find an intermittent break in the wires or some other problem. That’s tomorrows problem to solve.

I have been told that some of the yanmar wiring is too small to carry the load of the solenoid coils and fail after time.

 

ENGINE SENSORS (SENDERS)

 

With respect to the Sensors on the engine, the Oil, water temperature gauge, and the alternator (12v) have 2 wires each that go to independent VDO gauges mounted next to the “B” Yanmar panel. I know this as a few years ago I got frustrated trying to find the broken temp sender wire in the harness and just ran a new pair of wires directly to the gauges. The red idiot lights , and tach on the panel are Yanmar stock and wired as in the

“B” panel wiring panel drawing.

 

 

THE 24 V ALTERNATOR RED LIGHT

 

I turned the key on my engine B-Type panel and went below and lo and behold the red light was lit.

I never noticed it as I was always above starting the engine.  The little black cube of a solenoid which supposedly controls this light is a 12 volt solenoid. I double checked it. I will trace it down tomorrow as it makes no sense with a 24 volt alternator. Possibly this solenoid is not the one for the red light. I should know soon.

 

Kind of frustrating as I used to be an Electrical Engineer.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 2:53 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: What I found in my wire tracing so far.

 

 

Your alternators (24 and 12v) should be wired separately from the engine ground.  The main engine isolation solenoid is 12V.  The relay which goes to the alternator light must be 24v.

 

Mine wasn't hooked up when the engine was replaced.  I've just been looking at the battery monitor every time I go up and down the steps to confirm that the alternator is charging.  With the old Volvo, it would come on when the engine was first started if the rpms were too low, and would go off once the rpm was raised enough to excite the alternator.

Kent

SM243

Kristy 


On Jul 25, 2016, at 1:58 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I am off to the boat now.

My solenoid is 12 volts and doesn’t make sense if the 24 volt alternator is closing a 12 volt solenoid. Inever saw the red light lit on Kimberlite.

 

Also I am still having a heck of a time figuring out how Amel wired my engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 1:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wire tracing.

 

 

I will check and get back to you...how soon do you need this information?

 

Bill

BeBe 387

 

On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 5:34 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

Is the small black relay that is supposed be connected to the red light on your  DC panel 12 or 24 volts?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 1:07 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wire tracing.

 

 

Two other ways to label the wire are:

  1. A wire tie with a label built into it like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3MM-4MM-5MM-WHITE-NYLON-CABLE-TIES-ZIP-LABLE-TIES-FOR-FASTENING-CABLES-WIRES-/182176919372?var=&hash=item2a6a972f4c:m:msITU1dozImbHlQxDCEkWww
  2. Or use white shrink wrap on the ends of the wire, then write on the shrink wrap.

I have used both of these. They are each simple and work well. I did not label in French as I believe all of my Amel wires were done at the factory in La Rochelle.

 

Bill

BeBe 387

Trinidad

 

 

 

On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 4:45 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Tracing wires on my Amel SM is a real nightmare.  Ten blue wires go into a conduit, 10 come out and not one has a label on either end.  You try tugging on the wire you are interested in, and you find the whole bundle is clamped together somewhere along the run, so they all move!  It seems the builders had such confidence in their work they couldn't imagine anyone ever needing to repair anything! Previous owners were no better.  Very little they did was labeled or documented either.

 

I learned (the hard way) a long time ago when working on boats to ALWAYS label ALL wires. If you do your own work, make the effort.  If you pay someone to do your wiring, make labeling a condition of the contract. If your boat is well labeled, you will pay less to have work done on it in the future!

 

Even if I am sure I will remember what a wire does, I have learned th at I will forget.  In the ideal world, every wire and every hose would be labeled in every compartment it is exposed in.  I wish I could say I do that all the time, but it is a goal!  Working on a wire that you labeled clearly and helpfully will give you a warm and happy feeling.

 

But how do you trace them in the first place? You get a "wire tracer/tone generator".  They range from US$25 to US$100 or more. Here is an example:  

  • Sperry Instruments ET64220 Tracker-Tracer.

Amazon carries a wide variety of these.  For most purposes on a boat, you can get by with an inexpensive one without a lot of the fancy network options.  You clip the tone generator to one end of the wire, which sends an electronic tone down the wire.  A handheld receiver makes the tone audible anywhere along the wire.  The clos er you are to the right wire, the louder the tone.  It's a great help.   Much better than tugging on one end and hoping to feel which wire wiggles on the other.  They don't work everywhere, all the time, but they make the job a whole lot easier.  I wish I had learned about these tools long before I did!


Now, once you trace a wire... label it--right now!!!!  Even if it is not the wire you are going to be working on that day. If you know what the wire does, you can put a descriptive label on it.  If you do not know what the wire is for, and you figure out where it goes, label each end with a number.  It will help the future you!

In fact, tracing wires and labeling them is a great rainy day project! And if you are looking for the best wire labels, I want to know if you find any better than these: 

  • < span id="productTitle" class="a-size-large">Hellermann Tyton RO514 Rite-On Self-Laminating Labels


Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
"Ships and men rot in port"
Highlands, NJ
http://fetchinketch.net

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery questions

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

That's right Duane, my handbook says 00 for flooded lead acid batteries.
Regards
Danny



From: "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Friday, 29 July 2016 10:20 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery questions

 
Danny,

I decided to replace the old Gel batteries with Lead-Acid and I don't have the manual for the Dolphin Chargers.  Can you confirm that for your charger the correct setting would be "00"?  There is a document in the files section from 2013 that lists "00" as the correct setting for lead acid (boost at 14.4V and float at 13.2V).

Thank you,
Duane

Wanderer, SM#477



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RE: Wire tracing engine starting solved.

eric freedman
 

Kent,

Thanks—The only real problem is that Amel opened up the harnesses and added the wires and then used black electrical tape to close them up again. Over time the tape gets oily , very sticky and makes a mess when you open up the harness.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376





From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2016 11:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RE: Wire tracing engine starting solved.





Glad you got it figured out, Eric. It's amazing how many issues turn out to be a faulty connection. I guess that's where we should start every time.

Now you have a great understanding of how it's wired and is supposed to work. Time for a glass of wine/beer/rum.

Steady as she goes.

Kent


On Jul 28, 2016, at 6:58 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:





Well,

I found the problems (Occams Razor x2 ).

I examined the wiring diagram for the Yanmar “B” panel grounded to the bock. I found that the switch basically has 3 major connections.

One is the incoming DC positive , the second one is the power on position , idiot lights and panel instrument lights. , the third starts the engine. I had days earlier changed the ignition switch,

These wires are in the triangular shaped connector with three heavy wires.



Once I figured that out I started at the starter motor where the DC+ comes from. I have lots of spares so I changed the starter motor and cleaned the additional wire connectors at the + lug of the starter.

I then opened up the 2 diodes that go to the + lug on the Valeo Solenoid. They were both good. I had previously changed the valeo solenoid.



The purpose of the 2 diodes going to the + lug is to separate the starting and stopping of the engine. Both the start and stop function use the Valeo Solenoid. Incidentally the stop button uses a separate wire not in the triangular connector,

After each operation I tested the engine and panel to see if it would work,



I then changed the black Yanmar solenoid forward of the valeo. This solenoid connects the Battery positive to the starter motor solenoid mounted on the starter motor. It also energizes the positive coil lead on the valeo.



It works like this when you turn on the key the idiot lights go on and the buzzer. When you turn the switch to start, the Valeo closes connecting the battery negative to the block. It also closes the Yanmar solenoid and sends power to the starter motor solenoid. I cleaned every connection and changed all components and I could get the engine to stop but not start.



I then opened up the engine panel. It is literally a rats nest of yanmar and Amel wires.

Many wires go to the VDO gauges that were not standard on the B panel. I cleaned and tightened every connection and all the cable harness connectors. I labeled many wires and sorted them out ,by disconnecting many , and giving them a fair lead to the panel . When I was done I had 4 neat bundles of wires and knew what every wire did.

I turned the key and Bingo. It works.

I believe the problem was caused by corroded power wires at the starter motor, and some corroded connections at the panel. Nothing very bad looking but the combination, I believe reduced the voltage sufficiently to not give enough power to the starting components..

I hope this makes sense, if you have any questions,

Please do not hesitate to drop me a note.



It is unfortunate that Amel did not document the changes that they made to the engines wiring.

But all and all it wound up to be a fun project playing electrician.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

.





From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 12:42 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] What I found in my wire tracing so far.





This is for my 4jh3hte yanmar—

Quite different than the 4hh4



MY PROBLEM



My problem initially was that the engine solenoid that connects the block to the negative battery terminal would not operate. I had to have someone push the button on the solenoid and the engine would start.

I changed the Solenoid (Valeo Brand) and it worked for a few years. Bill posted some of my photos of the solenoid.

However this time changing the solenoid did not work. I then assumed it was the starter switch, I changed that.. Still no luck. I then started to fiddle with the wiring and then the “B” panel refused to light up intermittently. I guess I disconnected something which I will find soon.

Even connecting the heavy lugs on the starter motor and pushing the plunger on the Valeo solenoid would not start the engine.



I checked the other relay made by Yanmar , it was also good. It is used to activate the solenoid on the starter motor. It is larger and black and mounted forward of the Valeo Solenoid.



This is how the Starter circuit is supposed to work when the key is turned to the start position--- the small Yanmar solenoid closes and applies power to the starter motor on the positive side and the Valeo solenoid closes, connecting the block to the negative battery terminal, That should start the engine. This I am positive about. Both coils of the valeo and the Yanmar solenoid receive power from the panel.



Then the tricky wiring starts.

There are 2 red wires going to the positive leg of the Valeo Negative grounding solenoid coil. One operates the solenoid to start the engine, and the other is wired to the stop button for the actuator on the injector pump—WHAT???



Ok upon further investigation I found a diode in each wire so that power coming down the start wire would not also stop the engine at the same time, and vice versa. Yes the diodes are good.

Now I am tracing the wires back to the panel and will try to find an intermittent break in the wires or some other problem. That’s tomorrows problem to solve.

I have been told that some of the yanmar wiring is too small to carry the load of the solenoid coils and fail after time.



ENGINE SENSORS (SENDERS)



With respect to the Sensors on the engine, the Oil, water temperature gauge, and the alternator (12v) have 2 wires each that go to independent VDO gauges mounted next to the “B” Yanmar panel. I know this as a few years ago I got frustrated trying to find the broken temp sender wire in the harness and just ran a new pair of wires directly to the gauges. The red idiot lights , and tach on the panel are Yanmar stock and wired as in the

“B” panel wiring panel drawing.





THE 24 V ALTERNATOR RED LIGHT



I turned the key on my engine B-Type panel and went below and lo and behold the red light was lit.

I never noticed it as I was always above starting the engine. The little black cube of a solenoid which supposedly controls this light is a 12 volt solenoid. I double checked it. I will trace it down tomorrow as it makes no sense with a 24 volt alternator. Possibly this solenoid is not the one for the red light. I should know soon.



Kind of frustrating as I used to be an Electrical Engineer.



Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376















From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 2:53 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: What I found in my wire tracing so far.





Your alternators (24 and 12v) should be wired separately from the engine ground. The main engine isolation solenoid is 12V. The relay which goes to the alternator light must be 24v.



Mine wasn't hooked up when the engine was replaced. I've just been looking at the battery monitor every time I go up and down the steps to confirm that the alternator is charging. With the old Volvo, it would come on when the engine was first started if the rpms were too low, and would go off once the rpm was raised enough to excite the alternator.

Kent

SM243

Kristy
On Jul 25, 2016, at 1:58 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:



I am off to the boat now.

My solenoid is 12 volts and doesn’t make sense if the 24 volt alternator is closing a 12 volt solenoid. Inever saw the red light lit on Kimberlite.



Also I am still having a heck of a time figuring out how Amel wired my engine.

Fair Winds

Eric







From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 1:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wire tracing.





I will check and get back to you...how soon do you need this information?



Bill

BeBe 387



On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 5:34 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:



Bill,

Is the small black relay that is supposed be connected to the red light on your DC panel 12 or 24 volts?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376





From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 1:07 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wire tracing.





Two other ways to label the wire are:

1. A wire tie with a label built into it like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3MM-4MM-5MM-WHITE-NYLON-CABLE-TIES-ZIP-LABLE-TIES-FOR-FASTENING-CABLES-WIRES-/182176919372?var= <http://www.ebay.com/itm/3MM-4MM-5MM-WHITE-NYLON-CABLE-TIES-ZIP-LABLE-TIES-FOR-FASTENING-CABLES-WIRES-/182176919372?var=&hash=item2a6a972f4c:m:msITU1dozImbHlQxDCEkWww> &hash=item2a6a972f4c:m:msITU1dozImbHlQxDCEkWww
2. Or use white shrink wrap on the ends of the wire, then write on the shrink wrap.

I have used both of these. They are each simple and work well. I did not label in French as I believe all of my Amel wires were done at the factory in La Rochelle.



Bill

BeBe 387

Trinidad







On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 4:45 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:



Tracing wires on my Amel SM is a real nightmare. Ten blue wires go into a conduit, 10 come out and not one has a label on either end. You try tugging on the wire you are interested in, and you find the whole bundle is clamped together somewhere along the run, so they all move! It seems the builders had such confidence in their work they couldn't imagine anyone ever needing to repair anything! Previous owners were no better. Very little they did was labeled or documented either.



I learned (the hard way) a long time ago when working on boats to ALWAYS label ALL wires. If you do your own work, make the effort. If you pay someone to do your wiring, make labeling a condition of the contract. If your boat is well labeled, you will pay less to have work done on it in the future!



Even if I am sure I will remember what a wire does, I have learned th at I will forget. In the ideal world, every wire and every hose would be labeled in every compartment it is exposed in. I wish I could say I do that all the time, but it is a goal! Working on a wire that you labeled clearly and helpfully will give you a warm and happy feeling.



But how do you trace them in the first place? You get a "wire tracer/tone generator". They range from US$25 to US$100 or more. Here is an example:

* Sperry Instruments ET64220 Tracker-Tracer.

Amazon carries a wide variety of these. For most purposes on a boat, you can get by with an inexpensive one without a lot of the fancy network options. You clip the tone generator to one end of the wire, which sends an electronic tone down the wire. A handheld receiver makes the tone audible anywhere along the wire. The clos er you are to the right wire, the louder the tone. It's a great help. Much better than tugging on one end and hoping to feel which wire wiggles on the other. They don't work everywhere, all the time, but they make the job a whole lot easier. I wish I had learned about these tools long before I did!


Now, once you trace a wire... label it--right now!!!! Even if it is not the wire you are going to be working on that day. If you know what the wire does, you can put a descriptive label on it. If you do not know what the wire is for, and you figure out where it goes, label each end with a number. It will help the future you!

In fact, tracing wires and labeling them is a great rainy day project! And if you are looking for the best wire labels, I want to know if you find any better than these:

* < span id="productTitle" class="a-size-large">Hellermann Tyton RO514 Rite-On Self-Laminating Labels


Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
"Ships and men rot in port"
Highlands, NJ
http://fetchinketch.net


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RE: Wire tracing engine starting solved.

karkauai
 

Glad you got it figured out, Eric.  It's amazing how many issues turn out to be a faulty connection.  I guess that's where we should start every time.
Now you have a great understanding of how it's wired and is supposed to work.  Time for a glass of wine/beer/rum.
Steady as she goes.
Kent

On Jul 28, 2016, at 6:58 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Well,

I found the problems (Occams Razor x2 ).

I examined the wiring diagram for the Yanmar “B” panel grounded to the bock. I found that the switch basically has 3 major connections.

One is the incoming DC positive , the second one is the power on position , idiot lights and panel instrument lights. , the third starts the engine. I had days earlier changed the ignition switch,

These wires are in the triangular shaped connector with three heavy wires.

 

Once I figured that out I started at the starter motor where the DC+ comes from. I have lots of spares so I changed the starter motor and cleaned the  additional wire connectors  at the + lug of the starter.

I then opened up the 2 diodes that go to the + lug on the Valeo Solenoid. They were both good. I had previously changed the valeo solenoid.

 

The purpose of the 2 diodes going to the + lug is to separate the starting and stopping of the engine. Both the start and stop function use the Valeo Solenoid. Incidentally the stop button uses a separate wire not in the triangular connector,

After each operation I tested the engine and panel to see if it would work,

 

I then changed the black Yanmar solenoid forward of the valeo. This solenoid connects the Battery positive to the starter motor solenoid mounted on the starter motor. It also energizes the positive coil lead on the valeo.

 

It works like this when you turn on the key the idiot lights go on and the buzzer. When you turn the switch to start, the Valeo closes connecting the battery negative to the block. It also closes the Yanmar solenoid and sends  power to the starter motor solenoid.  I cleaned every connection and changed all components and I could get the engine to stop but not start.

 

I then opened up the engine panel. It is literally a rats nest of yanmar and Amel wires.

Many wires go to the VDO gauges that were not standard on the B panel. I cleaned and tightened every connection and all the cable harness connectors. I labeled many wires and sorted them out ,by disconnecting many , and giving them a fair lead to the panel . When I was done I had 4 neat bundles of wires and knew what every wire did.

I turned the key and Bingo. It works.

I believe the problem was caused by corroded power wires at the starter motor, and some corroded connections at the panel. Nothing very bad looking but the combination, I believe reduced the voltage sufficiently to not give enough power to the starting components..

I hope this makes sense, if you have any questions,

Please do not hesitate to drop me a note.

 

It is unfortunate that Amel did not document the changes that they made to the engines wiring.

But all and all it wound up to be a fun project playing electrician.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

.

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 12:42 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] What I found in my wire tracing so far.

 

 

This is for my 4jh3hte yanmar—

Quite different than the 4hh4

 

MY PROBLEM

 

My problem initially was that the engine solenoid that connects the block to the negative battery terminal would not operate. I had to have someone push the button on the solenoid and the engine would start.

I changed the Solenoid (Valeo Brand) and it worked for a few years. Bill posted some of my photos of the solenoid.

However this time changing the solenoid did not work. I then assumed it was the starter switch, I changed that.. Still no luck. I then started to fiddle with the wiring and then the “B” panel refused to light up  intermittently. I guess I disconnected something which I will find soon.

Even connecting the heavy lugs on the starter motor and pushing the plunger on the Valeo solenoid would not start the engine.

 

I checked the other relay made by Yanmar , it was also good. It is used to activate the solenoid on the starter motor. It is larger and black and mounted forward of the Valeo Solenoid.

 

This is how the Starter circuit is supposed to work when the key is turned to the start position--- the small Yanmar solenoid closes and applies power to the starter motor on the positive side and the Valeo solenoid closes, connecting the block to the negative battery terminal, That should start the engine. This I am positive about. Both coils of the valeo and the Yanmar solenoid receive power from the panel.

 

Then the tricky wiring starts.

There are 2 red wires going to the positive leg of the Valeo Negative grounding solenoid coil. One operates the solenoid to start the engine, and the other is wired to the stop button for the actuator on the injector pump—WHAT???

 

Ok upon further investigation I found a diode in each wire so that power coming down the start wire would not also stop the engine at the same time, and vice versa. Yes the diodes are good.

Now I am tracing the wires back to the panel and will try to find an intermittent break in the wires or some other problem. That’s tomorrows problem to solve.

I have been told that some of the yanmar wiring is too small to carry the load of the solenoid coils and fail after time.

 

ENGINE SENSORS (SENDERS)

 

With respect to the Sensors on the engine, the Oil, water temperature gauge, and the alternator (12v) have 2 wires each that go to independent VDO gauges mounted next to the “B” Yanmar panel. I know this as a few years ago I got frustrated trying to find the broken temp sender wire in the harness and just ran a new pair of wires directly to the gauges. The red idiot lights , and tach on the panel are Yanmar stock and wired as in the

“B” panel wiring panel drawing.

 

 

THE 24 V ALTERNATOR RED LIGHT

 

I turned the key on my engine B-Type panel and went below and lo and behold the red light was lit.

I never noticed it as I was always above starting the engine.  The little black cube of a solenoid which supposedly controls this light is a 12 volt solenoid. I double checked it. I will trace it down tomorrow as it makes no sense with a 24 volt alternator. Possibly this solenoid is not the one for the red light. I should know soon.

 

Kind of frustrating as I used to be an Electrical Engineer.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 2:53 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: What I found in my wire tracing so far.

 

 

Your alternators (24 and 12v) should be wired separately from the engine ground.  The main engine isolation solenoid is 12V.  The relay which goes to the alternator light must be 24v.

 

Mine wasn't hooked up when the engine was replaced.  I've just been looking at the battery monitor every time I go up and down the steps to confirm that the alternator is charging.  With the old Volvo, it would come on when the engine was first started if the rpms were too low, and would go off once the rpm was raised enough to excite the alternator.

Kent

SM243

Kristy 


On Jul 25, 2016, at 1:58 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I am off to the boat now.

My solenoid is 12 volts and doesn’t make sense if the 24 volt alternator is closing a 12 volt solenoid. Inever saw the red light lit on Kimberlite.

 

Also I am still having a heck of a time figuring out how Amel wired my engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 1:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wire tracing.

 

 

I will check and get back to you...how soon do you need this information?

 

Bill

BeBe 387

 

On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 5:34 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

Is the small black relay that is supposed be connected to the red light on your  DC panel 12 or 24 volts?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 1:07 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wire tracing.

 

 

Two other ways to label the wire are:

  1. A wire tie with a label built into it like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3MM-4MM-5MM-WHITE-NYLON-CABLE-TIES-ZIP-LABLE-TIES-FOR-FASTENING-CABLES-WIRES-/182176919372?var=&hash=item2a6a972f4c:m:msITU1dozImbHlQxDCEkWww
  2. Or use white shrink wrap on the ends of the wire, then write on the shrink wrap.

I have used both of these. They are each simple and work well. I did not label in French as I believe all of my Amel wires were done at the factory in La Rochelle.

 

Bill

BeBe 387

Trinidad

 

 

 

On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 4:45 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Tracing wires on my Amel SM is a real nightmare.  Ten blue wires go into a conduit, 10 come out and not one has a label on either end.  You try tugging on the wire you are interested in, and you find the whole bundle is clamped together somewhere along the run, so they all move!  It seems the builders had such confidence in their work they couldn't imagine anyone ever needing to repair anything! Previous owners were no better.  Very little they did was labeled or documented either.

 

I learned (the hard way) a long time ago when working on boats to ALWAYS label ALL wires. If you do your own work, make the effort.  If you pay someone to do your wiring, make labeling a condition of the contract. If your boat is well labeled, you will pay less to have work done on it in the future!

 

Even if I am sure I will remember what a wire does, I have learned th at I will forget.  In the ideal world, every wire and every hose would be labeled in every compartment it is exposed in.  I wish I could say I do that all the time, but it is a goal!  Working on a wire that you labeled clearly and helpfully will give you a warm and happy feeling.

 

But how do you trace them in the first place? You get a "wire tracer/tone generator".  They range from US$25 to US$100 or more. Here is an example:  

  • Sperry Instruments ET64220 Tracker-Tracer.

Amazon carries a wide variety of these.  For most purposes on a boat, you can get by with an inexpensive one without a lot of the fancy network options.  You clip the tone generator to one end of the wire, which sends an electronic tone down the wire.  A handheld receiver makes the tone audible anywhere along the wire.  The clos er you are to the right wire, the louder the tone.  It's a great help.   Much better than tugging on one end and hoping to feel which wire wiggles on the other.  They don't work everywhere, all the time, but they make the job a whole lot easier.  I wish I had learned about these tools long before I did!


Now, once you trace a wire... label it--right now!!!!  Even if it is not the wire you are going to be working on that day. If you know what the wire does, you can put a descriptive label on it.  If you do not know what the wire is for, and you figure out where it goes, label each end with a number.  It will help the future you!

In fact, tracing wires and labeling them is a great rainy day project! And if you are looking for the best wire labels, I want to know if you find any better than these: 

  • < span id="productTitle" class="a-size-large">Hellermann Tyton RO514 Rite-On Self-Laminating Labels


Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
"Ships and men rot in port"
Highlands, NJ
http://fetchinketch.net

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery questions

Duane Siegfri
 

Thanks Alexandre, it seems Dolphin stayed consistent.  I'll set it at 00 and check the charging voltage to be sure.

Duane


Re: Wire tracing engine starting solved.

eric freedman
 

 

Well,

I found the problems (Occams Razor x2 ).

I examined the wiring diagram for the Yanmar “B” panel grounded to the bock. I found that the switch basically has 3 major connections.

One is the incoming DC positive , the second one is the power on position , idiot lights and panel instrument lights. , the third starts the engine. I had days earlier changed the ignition switch,

These wires are in the triangular shaped connector with three heavy wires.

 

Once I figured that out I started at the starter motor where the DC+ comes from. I have lots of spares so I changed the starter motor and cleaned the  additional wire connectors  at the + lug of the starter.

I then opened up the 2 diodes that go to the + lug on the Valeo Solenoid. They were both good. I had previously changed the valeo solenoid.

 

The purpose of the 2 diodes going to the + lug is to separate the starting and stopping of the engine. Both the start and stop function use the Valeo Solenoid. Incidentally the stop button uses a separate wire not in the triangular connector,

After each operation I tested the engine and panel to see if it would work,

 

I then changed the black Yanmar solenoid forward of the valeo. This solenoid connects the Battery positive to the starter motor solenoid mounted on the starter motor. It also energizes the positive coil lead on the valeo.

 

It works like this when you turn on the key the idiot lights go on and the buzzer. When you turn the switch to start, the Valeo closes connecting the battery negative to the block. It also closes the Yanmar solenoid and sends  power to the starter motor solenoid.  I cleaned every connection and changed all components and I could get the engine to stop but not start.

 

I then opened up the engine panel. It is literally a rats nest of yanmar and Amel wires.

Many wires go to the VDO gauges that were not standard on the B panel. I cleaned and tightened every connection and all the cable harness connectors. I labeled many wires and sorted them out ,by disconnecting many , and giving them a fair lead to the panel . When I was done I had 4 neat bundles of wires and knew what every wire did.

I turned the key and Bingo. It works.

I believe the problem was caused by corroded power wires at the starter motor, and some corroded connections at the panel. Nothing very bad looking but the combination, I believe reduced the voltage sufficiently to not give enough power to the starting components..

I hope this makes sense, if you have any questions,

Please do not hesitate to drop me a note.

 

It is unfortunate that Amel did not document the changes that they made to the engines wiring.

But all and all it wound up to be a fun project playing electrician.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

.

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 12:42 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] What I found in my wire tracing so far.

 

 

This is for my 4jh3hte yanmar—

Quite different than the 4hh4

 

MY PROBLEM

 

My problem initially was that the engine solenoid that connects the block to the negative battery terminal would not operate. I had to have someone push the button on the solenoid and the engine would start.

I changed the Solenoid (Valeo Brand) and it worked for a few years. Bill posted some of my photos of the solenoid.

However this time changing the solenoid did not work. I then assumed it was the starter switch, I changed that.. Still no luck. I then started to fiddle with the wiring and then the “B” panel refused to light up  intermittently. I guess I disconnected something which I will find soon.

Even connecting the heavy lugs on the starter motor and pushing the plunger on the Valeo solenoid would not start the engine.

 

I checked the other relay made by Yanmar , it was also good. It is used to activate the solenoid on the starter motor. It is larger and black and mounted forward of the Valeo Solenoid.

 

This is how the Starter circuit is supposed to work when the key is turned to the start position--- the small Yanmar solenoid closes and applies power to the starter motor on the positive side and the Valeo solenoid closes, connecting the block to the negative battery terminal, That should start the engine. This I am positive about. Both coils of the valeo and the Yanmar solenoid receive power from the panel.

 

Then the tricky wiring starts.

There are 2 red wires going to the positive leg of the Valeo Negative grounding solenoid coil. One operates the solenoid to start the engine, and the other is wired to the stop button for the actuator on the injector pump—WHAT???

 

Ok upon further investigation I found a diode in each wire so that power coming down the start wire would not also stop the engine at the same time, and vice versa. Yes the diodes are good.

Now I am tracing the wires back to the panel and will try to find an intermittent break in the wires or some other problem. That’s tomorrows problem to solve.

I have been told that some of the yanmar wiring is too small to carry the load of the solenoid coils and fail after time.

 

ENGINE SENSORS (SENDERS)

 

With respect to the Sensors on the engine, the Oil, water temperature gauge, and the alternator (12v) have 2 wires each that go to independent VDO gauges mounted next to the “B” Yanmar panel. I know this as a few years ago I got frustrated trying to find the broken temp sender wire in the harness and just ran a new pair of wires directly to the gauges. The red idiot lights , and tach on the panel are Yanmar stock and wired as in the

“B” panel wiring panel drawing.

 

 

THE 24 V ALTERNATOR RED LIGHT

 

I turned the key on my engine B-Type panel and went below and lo and behold the red light was lit.

I never noticed it as I was always above starting the engine.  The little black cube of a solenoid which supposedly controls this light is a 12 volt solenoid. I double checked it. I will trace it down tomorrow as it makes no sense with a 24 volt alternator. Possibly this solenoid is not the one for the red light. I should know soon.

 

Kind of frustrating as I used to be an Electrical Engineer.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 2:53 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: What I found in my wire tracing so far.

 

 

Your alternators (24 and 12v) should be wired separately from the engine ground.  The main engine isolation solenoid is 12V.  The relay which goes to the alternator light must be 24v.

 

Mine wasn't hooked up when the engine was replaced.  I've just been looking at the battery monitor every time I go up and down the steps to confirm that the alternator is charging.  With the old Volvo, it would come on when the engine was first started if the rpms were too low, and would go off once the rpm was raised enough to excite the alternator.

Kent

SM243

Kristy 


On Jul 25, 2016, at 1:58 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I am off to the boat now.

My solenoid is 12 volts and doesn’t make sense if the 24 volt alternator is closing a 12 volt solenoid. Inever saw the red light lit on Kimberlite.

 

Also I am still having a heck of a time figuring out how Amel wired my engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 1:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wire tracing.

 

 

I will check and get back to you...how soon do you need this information?

 

Bill

BeBe 387

 

On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 5:34 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

Is the small black relay that is supposed be connected to the red light on your  DC panel 12 or 24 volts?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 1:07 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wire tracing.

 

 

Two other ways to label the wire are:

  1. A wire tie with a label built into it like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3MM-4MM-5MM-WHITE-NYLON-CABLE-TIES-ZIP-LABLE-TIES-FOR-FASTENING-CABLES-WIRES-/182176919372?var=&hash=item2a6a972f4c:m:msITU1dozImbHlQxDCEkWww
  2. Or use white shrink wrap on the ends of the wire, then write on the shrink wrap.

I have used both of these. They are each simple and work well. I did not label in French as I believe all of my Amel wires were done at the factory in La Rochelle.

 

Bill

BeBe 387

Trinidad

 

 

 

On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 4:45 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Tracing wires on my Amel SM is a real nightmare.  Ten blue wires go into a conduit, 10 come out and not one has a label on either end.  You try tugging on the wire you are interested in, and you find the whole bundle is clamped together somewhere along the run, so they all move!  It seems the builders had such confidence in their work they couldn't imagine anyone ever needing to repair anything! Previous owners were no better.  Very little they did was labeled or documented either.

 

I learned (the hard way) a long time ago when working on boats to ALWAYS label ALL wires. If you do your own work, make the effort.  If you pay someone to do your wiring, make labeling a condition of the contract. If your boat is well labeled, you will pay less to have work done on it in the future!

 

Even if I am sure I will remember what a wire does, I have learned th at I will forget.  In the ideal world, every wire and every hose would be labeled in every compartment it is exposed in.  I wish I could say I do that all the time, but it is a goal!  Working on a wire that you labeled clearly and helpfully will give you a warm and happy feeling.

 

But how do you trace them in the first place? You get a "wire tracer/tone generator".  They range from US$25 to US$100 or more. Here is an example:  

  • Sperry Instruments ET64220 Tracker-Tracer.

Amazon carries a wide variety of these.  For most purposes on a boat, you can get by with an inexpensive one without a lot of the fancy network options.  You clip the tone generator to one end of the wire, which sends an electronic tone down the wire.  A handheld receiver makes the tone audible anywhere along the wire.  The clos er you are to the right wire, the louder the tone.  It's a great help.   Much better than tugging on one end and hoping to feel which wire wiggles on the other.  They don't work everywhere, all the time, but they make the job a whole lot easier.  I wish I had learned about these tools long before I did!


Now, once you trace a wire... label it--right now!!!!  Even if it is not the wire you are going to be working on that day. If you know what the wire does, you can put a descriptive label on it.  If you do not know what the wire is for, and you figure out where it goes, label each end with a number.  It will help the future you!

In fact, tracing wires and labeling them is a great rainy day project! And if you are looking for the best wire labels, I want to know if you find any better than these: 

  • < span id="productTitle" class="a-size-large">Hellermann Tyton RO514 Rite-On Self-Laminating Labels


Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
"Ships and men rot in port"
Highlands, NJ
http://fetchinketch.net

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery questions

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon Duane,

That is what is says on mine:

Position 00: Wet or flooded electrolyte batteries

Here are the other options:
Position 01: Sealed lead batteries
Position 02: Calcium-Lead batteries
Position 03: AC Delco batteries
Position 04: MAXIMA / OPTIMA
Position 05: Free Lead batteries - winterisation
Position 06: Sealed lead batteries - winterisation
Position 07: Gel batteries
Position 08: Sealed Lead Or Power supply
Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico




--------------------------------------------

On Thu, 7/28/16, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery questions
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Thursday, July 28, 2016, 5:20 PM


 









Danny,
I
decided to replace the old Gel batteries with Lead-Acid and
I don't have the manual for the Dolphin Chargers.  Can
you confirm that for your charger the correct setting would
be "00"?  There is a document in the files
section from 2013 that lists "00" as the correct
setting for lead acid (boost at 14.4V and float at
13.2V).
Thank
you,Duane
Wanderer, SM#477









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Re: Battery questions

Duane Siegfri
 

Danny,

I decided to replace the old Gel batteries with Lead-Acid and I don't have the manual for the Dolphin Chargers.  Can you confirm that for your charger the correct setting would be "00"?  There is a document in the files section from 2013 that lists "00" as the correct setting for lead acid (boost at 14.4V and float at 13.2V).

Thank you,
Duane

Wanderer, SM#477


Wire tracing engine starting solved.

eric freedman
 

Well,

I found the problems (Occams Razor x2 ).

I examined the wiring diagram for the Yanmar “B” panel grounded to the bock. I found that the switch basically has 3 major connections.

One is the incoming DC positive , the second one is the power on position , idiot lights and panel instrument lights. , the third starts the engine. I had days earlier changed the ignition switch,

These wires are in the triangular shaped connector with three heavy wires.

 

Once I figured that out I started at the starter motor where the DC+ comes from. I have lots of spares so I changed the starter motor and cleaned the  additional wire connectors  at the + lug of the starter.

I then opened up the 2 diodes that go to the + lug on the Valeo Solenoid. They were both good. I had previously changed the valeo solenoid.

 

The purpose of the 2 diodes going to the + lug is to separate the starting and stopping of the engine. Both the start and stop function use the Valeo Solenoid. Incidentally the stop button uses a separate wire not in the triangular connector,

After each operation I tested the engine and panel to see if it would work,

 

I then changed the black Yanmar solenoid forward of the valeo. This solenoid connects the Battery positive to the starter motor solenoid mounted on the starter motor. It also energizes the positive coil lead on the valeo.

 

It works like this when you turn on the key the idiot lights go on and the buzzer. When you turn the switch to start, the Valeo closes connecting the battery negative to the block. It also closes the Yanmar solenoid and sends  power to the starter motor solenoid.  I cleaned every connection and changed all components and I could get the engine to stop but not start.

 

I then opened up the engine panel. It is literally a rats nest of yanmar and Amel wires.

Many wires go to the VDO gauges that were not standard on the B panel. I cleaned and tightened every connection and all the cable harness connectors. I labeled many wires and sorted them out ,by disconnecting many , and giving them a fair lead to the panel . When I was done I had 4 neat bundles of wires and knew what every wire did.

I turned the key and Bingo. It works.

I believe the problem was caused by corroded power wires at the starter motor, and some corroded connections at the panel. Nothing very bad looking but the combination, I believe reduced the voltage sufficiently to not give enough power to the starting components..

I hope this makes sense, if you have any questions,

Please do not hesitate to drop me a note.

 

It is unfortunate that Amel did not document the changes that they made to the engines wiring.

But all and all it wound up to be a fun project playing electrician.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

.

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 12:42 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] What I found in my wire tracing so far.

 

 

This is for my 4jh3hte yanmar—

Quite different than the 4hh4

 

MY PROBLEM

 

My problem initially was that the engine solenoid that connects the block to the negative battery terminal would not operate. I had to have someone push the button on the solenoid and the engine would start.

I changed the Solenoid (Valeo Brand) and it worked for a few years. Bill posted some of my photos of the solenoid.

However this time changing the solenoid did not work. I then assumed it was the starter switch, I changed that.. Still no luck. I then started to fiddle with the wiring and then the “B” panel refused to light up  intermittently. I guess I disconnected something which I will find soon.

Even connecting the heavy lugs on the starter motor and pushing the plunger on the Valeo solenoid would not start the engine.

 

I checked the other relay made by Yanmar , it was also good. It is used to activate the solenoid on the starter motor. It is larger and black and mounted forward of the Valeo Solenoid.

 

This is how the Starter circuit is supposed to work when the key is turned to the start position--- the small Yanmar solenoid closes and applies power to the starter motor on the positive side and the Valeo solenoid closes, connecting the block to the negative battery terminal, That should start the engine. This I am positive about. Both coils of the valeo and the Yanmar solenoid receive power from the panel.

 

Then the tricky wiring starts.

There are 2 red wires going to the positive leg of the Valeo Negative grounding solenoid coil. One operates the solenoid to start the engine, and the other is wired to the stop button for the actuator on the injector pump—WHAT???

 

Ok upon further investigation I found a diode in each wire so that power coming down the start wire would not also stop the engine at the same time, and vice versa. Yes the diodes are good.

Now I am tracing the wires back to the panel and will try to find an intermittent break in the wires or some other problem. That’s tomorrows problem to solve.

I have been told that some of the yanmar wiring is too small to carry the load of the solenoid coils and fail after time.

 

ENGINE SENSORS (SENDERS)

 

With respect to the Sensors on the engine, the Oil, water temperature gauge, and the alternator (12v) have 2 wires each that go to independent VDO gauges mounted next to the “B” Yanmar panel. I know this as a few years ago I got frustrated trying to find the broken temp sender wire in the harness and just ran a new pair of wires directly to the gauges. The red idiot lights , and tach on the panel are Yanmar stock and wired as in the

“B” panel wiring panel drawing.

 

 

THE 24 V ALTERNATOR RED LIGHT

 

I turned the key on my engine B-Type panel and went below and lo and behold the red light was lit.

I never noticed it as I was always above starting the engine.  The little black cube of a solenoid which supposedly controls this light is a 12 volt solenoid. I double checked it. I will trace it down tomorrow as it makes no sense with a 24 volt alternator. Possibly this solenoid is not the one for the red light. I should know soon.

 

Kind of frustrating as I used to be an Electrical Engineer.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 2:53 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: What I found in my wire tracing so far.

 

 

Your alternators (24 and 12v) should be wired separately from the engine ground.  The main engine isolation solenoid is 12V.  The relay which goes to the alternator light must be 24v.

 

Mine wasn't hooked up when the engine was replaced.  I've just been looking at the battery monitor every time I go up and down the steps to confirm that the alternator is charging.  With the old Volvo, it would come on when the engine was first started if the rpms were too low, and would go off once the rpm was raised enough to excite the alternator.

Kent

SM243

Kristy 


On Jul 25, 2016, at 1:58 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I am off to the boat now.

My solenoid is 12 volts and doesn’t make sense if the 24 volt alternator is closing a 12 volt solenoid. Inever saw the red light lit on Kimberlite.

 

Also I am still having a heck of a time figuring out how Amel wired my engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 1:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wire tracing.

 

 

I will check and get back to you...how soon do you need this information?

 

Bill

BeBe 387

 

On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 5:34 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

Is the small black relay that is supposed be connected to the red light on your  DC panel 12 or 24 volts?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 1:07 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wire tracing.

 

 

Two other ways to label the wire are:

  1. A wire tie with a label built into it like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3MM-4MM-5MM-WHITE-NYLON-CABLE-TIES-ZIP-LABLE-TIES-FOR-FASTENING-CABLES-WIRES-/182176919372?var=&hash=item2a6a972f4c:m:msITU1dozImbHlQxDCEkWww
  2. Or use white shrink wrap on the ends of the wire, then write on the shrink wrap.

I have used both of these. They are each simple and work well. I did not label in French as I believe all of my Amel wires were done at the factory in La Rochelle.

 

Bill

BeBe 387

Trinidad

 

 

 

On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 4:45 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Tracing wires on my Amel SM is a real nightmare.  Ten blue wires go into a conduit, 10 come out and not one has a label on either end.  You try tugging on the wire you are interested in, and you find the whole bundle is clamped together somewhere along the run, so they all move!  It seems the builders had such confidence in their work they couldn't imagine anyone ever needing to repair anything! Previous owners were no better.  Very little they did was labeled or documented either.

 

I learned (the hard way) a long time ago when working on boats to ALWAYS label ALL wires. If you do your own work, make the effort.  If you pay someone to do your wiring, make labeling a condition of the contract. If your boat is well labeled, you will pay less to have work done on it in the future!

 

Even if I am sure I will remember what a wire does, I have learned th at I will forget.  In the ideal world, every wire and every hose would be labeled in every compartment it is exposed in.  I wish I could say I do that all the time, but it is a goal!  Working on a wire that you labeled clearly and helpfully will give you a warm and happy feeling.

 

But how do you trace them in the first place? You get a "wire tracer/tone generator".  They range from US$25 to US$100 or more. Here is an example:  

  • Sperry Instruments ET64220 Tracker-Tracer.

Amazon carries a wide variety of these.  For most purposes on a boat, you can get by with an inexpensive one without a lot of the fancy network options.  You clip the tone generator to one end of the wire, which sends an electronic tone down the wire.  A handheld receiver makes the tone audible anywhere along the wire.  The clos er you are to the right wire, the louder the tone.  It's a great help.   Much better than tugging on one end and hoping to feel which wire wiggles on the other.  They don't work everywhere, all the time, but they make the job a whole lot easier.  I wish I had learned about these tools long before I did!


Now, once you trace a wire... label it--right now!!!!  Even if it is not the wire you are going to be working on that day. If you know what the wire does, you can put a descriptive label on it.  If you do not know what the wire is for, and you figure out where it goes, label each end with a number.  It will help the future you!

In fact, tracing wires and labeling them is a great rainy day project! And if you are looking for the best wire labels, I want to know if you find any better than these: 

  • < span id="productTitle" class="a-size-large">Hellermann Tyton RO514 Rite-On Self-Laminating Labels


Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
"Ships and men rot in port"
Highlands, NJ
http://fetchinketch.net

 

 

 


Re: Head-Holding tank ball valve replacement

Duane Siegfri
 

Bill,

The Marelon are an expensive lot, and not available in BPT.  I found Groco has BPT available in their bronze ball valves, and they include a grease zert!  That seems like such a reasonable feature...

Go ahead and have a chuckle, I had to order them over the internet, not available in brunswick GA in BPT!

Duane


Re: Head-Holding tank ball valve replacement

Duane Siegfri
 

Craig,

Thanks for the reply.  I've never tried to repair a ball valve.  I believe I'll give it a shot and keep it as a backup.  The problem wit repair is that I'll have to remove it anyway, so I may as well just replace it.

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: BeBe Amel Super Maramu 2003 Model #387

Peter Forbes
 

Dear Bill and Judy,

Thank you so much for all your help and encouragement with our AMEL 54 Carango. You have been an inspiration to us.

Good luck in your retirement.

Carango has been brilliant in our circumnavigation and I totally agree with all you say about AMEL they are brilliant yachts for this purpose. 

We will put Carango on the market when we complete in April 2017 in Caribbean.


Best wishes

Peter and Vicky

Peter Forbes
00447836 209730

On 25 Jul 2016, at 19:51, Bob Grey renaissanceiii@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill and Judy, I've been part of this forum for two years and appreciate  your depth of knowledge and the information in your emails.


You will be missed

Good luck with the next stage of your travels.

Bob Grey
Renaissance III
Amel 55 #25


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Monday, July 25, 2016, 19:10, Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Dear Bill & Judy

Good luck with the next chapter in your lives and many thanks for your continuous help and support through this forum. It has been invaluable for us throughout the last 4 years that we have had our SM.

All the best

Andrew & Kate
Ronpische 
SM 472
Mallorca


On 24 Jul 2016, at 10:21, eljaroellinghoff@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Judi and Bill cogatulatiob to end your circumnavigation. 

Thank you for your knowledge In the Forum, and I,hope  you share it for a long time

Elja 
SY Baloo SM 222

Messolonghi-Greece


Mastervolt chargemaster 24/40-3

Peter Killen
 

Hi All
Our mastervolt unit packed up having worked well for the past three years.
I had a new unit fitted today, but for some reason am getting no power through to the unit despite it being wired up in exactly the same way as the previous one.
Is there a fuse somewhere on the power cable?
The bigger charger unit is working perfectly.
Any help much appreciated

Peter Killen
S/V Pure Magic 433


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wire tracing.

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Aras,

Isn't amazing that some electrical systems in your 30+ year old Sharki have lasted 30+ years.

And, I would be willing to bet that your charging problem was caused by some careless modification done by a previous owner. I looked back through your previous posts and did not see anything regarding the condition of your batteries and whether or not you have had them load-tested. If you have not, this could be an issue with some of the things that you have posted about. I am sure that you know this.

Anyway, continued good luck with your Sharki...I like that boat.

Best,

Bill
BeBe 387

On Wed, Jul 27, 2016 at 12:01 PM, n33077@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Boy oh boy, I feel better that I'm not alone in these endeavors.  For 6 months I tried to get my house charging circuit to work properly; 3 different alternators, 2 "experts" and no good results.  finally I threw in the towel and hired a certified pro. 
We spent nearly 3 hours troubleshooting.  Yes we could make it work, but not without alot of effort and fuses [the test equipment kept blowing fuses].  We finally came to the conclusion it would be better to re-wire the system [House side], install a better battery monitoring system (Blueseas M2), change the alternator (Bosch 200 amp) and add a crossover switch. 
6 weeks later I now have a system that works well and gives my batteries all the go juice it needs/ requires.  Now I am replacing the 30 year selenoids to complete the rebuild of my furlers.
Next week the new B&G 4G radar gets installed and I should be done with the major work for a spell.

Amel r eally built stuff well, but tracing out circuits is a pain.

Aras
Amel Sharki #163



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wire tracing.

n33077@...
 

Boy oh boy, I feel better that I'm not alone in these endeavors.  For 6 months I tried to get my house charging circuit to work properly; 3 different alternators, 2 "experts" and no good results.  finally I threw in the towel and hired a certified pro. 
We spent nearly 3 hours troubleshooting.  Yes we could make it work, but not without alot of effort and fuses [the test equipment kept blowing fuses].  We finally came to the conclusion it would be better to re-wire the system [House side], install a better battery monitoring system (Blueseas M2), change the alternator (Bosch 200 amp) and add a crossover switch. 
6 weeks later I now have a system that works well and gives my batteries all the go juice it needs/ requires.  Now I am replacing the 30 year selenoids to complete the rebuild of my furlers.
Next week the new B&G 4G radar gets installed and I should be done with the major work for a spell.

Amel really built stuff well, but tracing out circuits is a pain.

Aras
Amel Sharki #163