Date   

User manual Maramu 46 #solution

Nicolas Tiné
 

Hi everybody. I recently bought Marmaid, a Maramu 46/1986, and I want to know if some of you have an english or french copy of the User Manual

The boat is rather sophisticated and specific, so it would be a great help for me.

Thanks a lot 


Re: Waterleak

Michael & Robyn
 

Hi Jose,

we had similar puddles in the same area. I found that the hose clamp that holds the hose on the pipe through the wall aft had failed. It was only hold in place because the hose with clamp is very tight over the hull re-reinforcement (cross bracing) and prevents the broken clamp from falling down.
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417


Re: Port side Front Navigation Light unreliable

Michael & Robyn
 

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 09:36 AM, CW Bill Rouse wrote:
Preparing to pull wire
Thank y'all for the explanation and the tricks of the trade. I will see whether I can source the Belden cable here in Antigua. Ill report back how it went once I get to the project.
 
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417


Re: #replacement #solution #spares #replacement #solution #spares

Ian Park
 

Sabine
Yes. It is very worthwhile. It produces enough electricity for all electricity when sailing (when sailing at 5+ knots).
The alternator is an old style French one no longer made.
Do you still have the large pulley on the drive shaft wheel and the b
bracket for the alternator?

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN 96



On 20 December 2020, at 15:33, Sabine Stein <S.stein64@...> wrote:


Good afternoon
we have in the santorin  1992  the possibility to put a wave generator ( there was one properly )
would you put it again and which make was in there originally ?
thank you 


Re: Waterleak

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

These are two different areas.  I had problems with both over the past 4 years, and here is what I found to be the problems:

The front bathroom has the depth transponder.  The leak in this area usually has to do with the O rings that go around the transponder.  Remove the transponder and replace with the transponder with the plug.  Take off all the O Rings, and go down to the local hardware store and buy a replacement set and a few spares.  Replace them, and put a lot of waterproof grease on the transponder shaft.  Replace the shaft.  I was amazed when there was no water in this area for over a year!  Yes, absolutely dry.

Regarding the area in front of the aft bathroom.  Unless you have a problem with the plumbing from the shower base, which would indicate you have many problems, the salt water is coming from 3 locations.  You have a leak around the rudder shaft, or you have a leak in the standing rigging fitting in the closet.  This is the only place that I can think of where you would get salt water intrusion in that area.  So, start checking where the water is coming from.  Dry everything, and start taping paper towels everywhere until you locate the source of the salt water.  

All the best, 

Ken Powers
Aquarius
SM2K#262


Re: Port side Front Navigation Light unreliable

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

I also had a problem with the Bow Navigation Lights.  I replaced the bulb several times, and then bit the bullet and replaced the wire and installed the 2NM Hella LED set.  All mistakes.
There is a link to the 2NM LED set from Hella, and the 3NM Port light below.

Don't waist your time trying to keep the old bulbs on the bow, they don't last.  

Don't waist your time replacing the bow lights with ANY LIGHT which will have a splice near the front of the bow.  I replaced the 2NM Hella LED set twice now.

So, what to do:
Purchase the Hella Marine 3NM lights with a 3M cable.  Route the cables through the pulpit and splice inside the Port bow lazaretto to the boat cables.  If you have a SM any cable in the front of the boat is now worthless.  If you splice the cable where the sun and salt water can contact the area of the splice it will work GREAT... for about 9 months if you do a really good job.  Then you're back fixing it again.  



Don't buy these:
https://boatsupply.com/hella-marine-naviled-port-starboard-pair-2nm-colored-lens-white-housing/

Do buy these with 3M cable attached and splice in the Port Locker.
https://boatsupply.com/hella-marine-naviled-pro-port-navigation-lamp-3nm-red-lens-white-housing/

I already have the lights aboard Aquarius, just waiting for the second set of 2NM Hella lights to go bad, and then I will change to the 3NM with the 3M attached cables.

Aquarius
SM2K#262
Currently in Thailand on the hard.


Re: Port side Front Navigation Light unreliable

 

This is what Ben Driver wrote when he did this job:
It is absolutely critical you attach very well a strong pull string to the old cable. It must be spliced well and no kinks. Then you go into the port locker and begin pulling. In the beginning, you will need some back and forth motion; that is, you pull a few inches into the locker and then pull back out at the starboard fixture. Once it begins to move freely you can pull all the way through. You will need to pull very hard. Hence the need for a good connection to the old cable. I made it all the way to the opening in the port locker before the wire separated from the old cable. The worse part was over. Since the old cable was now in the rail above the port locker I was able to use a coat hanger with a hook to pull it all the way through." ~ Ben Driver

This is what I recommend:
I recommend using a smaller cable than Amel originally used, especially if you are going to use LED lights. I really like Belden 8760 18 AWG 1 Twisted Pair Shielded Cable and use this for many electrical connections and all electronic connections. I would not use it for a high amperage connection.
Also, make sure the cable you pull is lubricated. Use liquid soap if you do not have Cable Pulling Lubricant. Before you start search YouTube for "Preparing to pull wire" This will give you some hints on how to secure a cable to the pull string. Here is a snippet from my book:
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 6:54 AM Gary Wells <gary@...> wrote:
I had to run a new wire through the stanchions and all the way round the pulpit to reach the StarBoard side.  
It was just a bit challenging, but slowly pulling the old wire out with a strong messenger line behind it and then feeding the new wire back through proved to solve the issue completely.
There were two wires entering the port; stanchion separate legs for each light. If you've only one wire going in then it's likely been branched in the stanchion and I can see that might be a potential problem.  Moisture does get in there. 

I did replace Adagio's nav lights with Weems and Plath LED.  It was a very some.swap and they are so much better than the old ones.

Cheers
Gary W., former owner SM 209.


#replacement #solution #spares #replacement #solution #spares

Sabine Stein
 

Good afternoon
we have in the santorin  1992  the possibility to put a wave generator ( there was one properly )
would you put it again and which make was in there originally ?
thank you 


Re: Waterleak

 

Jose,

The anchor wash they refer to does NOT apply to your SM. Earlier model SMs had through-hulls between the salon/forward bulkhead to allow saltwater for the anchor wash pump located near the forward AC unit and to allow saltwater for the manual flush toilet. Unless someone has modified your SM, your SM has electric flush supply pumps for your toilets and an anchor wash pump in the engine room. Here are some photos I have of SM 323:
Anchor wash pump in engine room:
image.png
Electric flush:
image.png

Have you tested the water with a TDS meter to be sure it is seawater? You need to do this to include or exclude a freshwater or gray water leak.

If it is seepage from the Bow Thruster, the area I circled will fill with seawater first, then move to other areas as the bow moves through the water:
image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 4:52 AM JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:
Hi Craig!

Definitely I have to check the anchor wash based in yours and Thomas advice.
I'll post the results ASAP.
Thanks.

Cheers
 
--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain


Re: Port side Front Navigation Light unreliable

Gary Wells
 

I had to run a new wire through the stanchions and all the way round the pulpit to reach the StarBoard side.  
It was just a bit challenging, but slowly pulling the old wire out with a strong messenger line behind it and then feeding the new wire back through proved to solve the issue completely.
There were two wires entering the port; stanchion separate legs for each light. If you've only one wire going in then it's likely been branched in the stanchion and I can see that might be a potential problem.  Moisture does get in there. 

I did replace Adagio's nav lights with Weems and Plath LED.  It was a very some.swap and they are so much better than the old ones.

Cheers
Gary W., former owner SM 209.


Re: Waterleak

JOSE PRIETO
 

Hi Craig!

Definitely I have to check the anchor wash based in yours and Thomas advice.
I'll post the results ASAP.
Thanks.

Cheers
 
--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain


Re: Waterleak

JOSE PRIETO
 

Hi Thomas!

Thanks for your opinion!
I will check the anchor wash as well.

Cheers
--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain


Re: Waterleak

JOSE PRIETO
 

Hello Bill!
I bought my SM a year ago and according to the ex-owner he did an overhaul on BT.
However I have no doubt that some drops are entering between the seals lips, because when sailing I perceive the subtle movement of the water drops.
Yet it seems to me that there is little water coming in, for the volume of water that appears in the bilge below the passage from the hall to the front cabin.
Yesterday before going out to sail, I removed all the water from that bilge. I sailed for about three hours in a totally calm sea, with a wind of 15 kt. After my arrival I checked the amount of water quite large that could be justified by the drops of BT. I am attaching some pictures.
I believe that there is somewhere else where water is entering.
I will adopt your suggestion from the water detector.
Thank you very much for your guidance and opinions.
At the beginning of next year I will haul the boat and then I will change the seals.
In the meantime, I will continue my search. :(

Thanks for the help

Cheers

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain


Re: Water ingress

Sabine Stein
 

Good Morning 
 There is a connection from the bathroom to this compartment 
if anything from the toilet leaks or drips from showering are going under the bathroom base they end up in there 
well at least at the Santorin 


Re: Waterleak

Craig Briggs
 

Rudy and José,
While one possibility is leaking around BT seals, I'd suggest also carefully checking the head/anchor wash intake manifold coming off the thru-hull valve. Mine got pinhole corrosion leaks that got progressively worse over a few years until I finally spotted it, thinking all along it was the BT, but it was not.  Also, I'd suggest not closing the valve from the chain locker through the shower when underway - better to let that water flow through to the main grey-water sump and be pumped out. Could also try stuffing something squishy around the anchor chain to prevent sea water from entering the chain locker whilst underway.
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Waterleak

Thomas Peacock
 

I have LOTS of experience with water in that location, and totally agree with Bill.

If, at one time, you had a lot of water in that bilge, some could have flowed over into a separate bilge under the closet. In rough seas, that can spill back into the visible bilge. You can slip your hand up into that area and check for water.

Also work checking all parts of the line running to the anchor wash.

Tom Peacock SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay

On Dec 19, 2020, at 1:43 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Jose,

With the SM, at least 95% of the time, seawater in the area of the depth transducer and watertight bulkhead is seawater that has leaked past the bow thruster seals, as little as one drop at a time. These drops of seawater run along the inside of the hull and downhill until they accumulate in this area. All other areas will be dry. Sometimes in rough conditions seawater collected in this area can be thrown to small pockets under the shower pan, where they will stay until the right rough conditions will allow the water to escape. When it does, it accumulates in the same spot between the Depth transducer and the watertight bulkhead.

In rough seas with the bow moving up and down, there is a tremendous amount of pressure on the bow thruster shaft seals. In rough conditions, this pressure can cause minimal seepage of seawater past the foam and lip seals. The best thing to do to minimize this is to change the seals every two years and to be sure to use the safety pin which should compress the 2 bow thruster outside seals causing a very good seal. Some of the last SMs and all amels made after the SM have a seawater capture system that captures this seawater and drains it into the gray water tank.

I recommend monitoring the area between the Depth Transducer and the watertight bulkhead using a simple battery-powered water alarm.
<image.png>

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Dec 19, 2020 at 12:21 PM JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:
Same problem here! Any suggestion?

Cheers

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain




--
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay


Re: Waterleak

 

Jose,

With the SM, at least 95% of the time, seawater in the area of the depth transducer and watertight bulkhead is seawater that has leaked past the bow thruster seals, as little as one drop at a time. These drops of seawater run along the inside of the hull and downhill until they accumulate in this area. All other areas will be dry. Sometimes in rough conditions seawater collected in this area can be thrown to small pockets under the shower pan, where they will stay until the right rough conditions will allow the water to escape. When it does, it accumulates in the same spot between the Depth transducer and the watertight bulkhead.

In rough seas with the bow moving up and down, there is a tremendous amount of pressure on the bow thruster shaft seals. In rough conditions, this pressure can cause minimal seepage of seawater past the foam and lip seals. The best thing to do to minimize this is to change the seals every two years and to be sure to use the safety pin which should compress the 2 bow thruster outside seals causing a very good seal. Some of the last SMs and all amels made after the SM have a seawater capture system that captures this seawater and drains it into the gray water tank.

I recommend monitoring the area between the Depth Transducer and the watertight bulkhead using a simple battery-powered water alarm.
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Dec 19, 2020 at 12:21 PM JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:
Same problem here! Any suggestion?

Cheers

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain


Re: Waterleak

JOSE PRIETO
 

Same problem here! Any suggestion?

Cheers

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain


Re: It´s time to introduce ourselves.

Martin Birkhoff
 

Thanks  for your welcome, Ruedi and Sabina

Since some two month we are staying in Cherbourg, France.
We plan to sail to La Rochelle with the next suitable wheather window to get our problems fixed. Repairs will need some weeks. Hopefully we are able to continue to Portugal in February  

Martin

SY Mago del Sur - 54/40


Re: Water ingress

JOSE PRIETO
 

I have the same problem! Somebody can help?

Cheers

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain

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