Date   

Re: Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

Mark McGovern
 

Mark,

The foam dampers are attached to a separate mouse line, NOT to the VHF cable or any other cable. 

The idea is that when you need to run a new cable up inside the mast, you:

1.  Tie a new "plain" mouse line to the bottom of the "foam damper" mouse line
2.  Pull the "foam damper" mouse line out the top of the mast
3.  Pull the new cable(s) in the now clear cable chase
4.  Pull the "foam damper" mouse line back in 

Mark

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Bow thruster tube anomaly

Davi Rozgonyi
 

None yet, I left the last cm in, I'm not dropping it till better weather in a few days, then I'll post pics. 


Re: Hardtop for Amel 54

Stefan Schaufert
 

Bill,

the panels are 4 x SUNPOWER SPR-E-FLEX-170, 12V each. 
I am happy with them.


Scott,

I tried both possibilities before I made the final wiring.  Amazingly (but maybe I should have waited significantly longer than 4 hours) the series connection (all panels) brought a significantly higher yield (amperes for charging). The serial-parallel connection has to be better theoretically, but was not.
I do not know why this is not like usual.

At least you do not need any more panels in this life ;-) on Tengah.

Best regards
Stefan
A54 # 119 Lady Charlyette, currently Bahamas


Re: Volvo D3 110 Sea Water Pump - Cover seal

Stefan Schaufert
 

Thx a lot for the good hints
to you
Bill, Bill and Scott.

Best regards
Stefan
A54 # 119 Lady Charlyette, currently Bahamas


Re: Bow thruster tube anomaly

Matt Salatino
 

Pics of the corrosion?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt Salatino, A50#27, Speed of Life

On Feb 8, 2021, at 9:22 AM, Davi Rozgonyi <davi.rozgonyi@...> wrote:

GOT IT LOOSE! The trick is to clamp that tool without sandpaper and crank it down as tight as humanly possible. Also 3 weeks of wd40. Now to repair the fiberglass gouge. By the way, Maud can make you a new one for 3700 euros, if needs be. Cheers all, thank you so much for talking me through it! 


Re: Bow thruster tube anomaly

 

Patience works.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Mon, Feb 8, 2021 at 8:22 AM Davi Rozgonyi <davi.rozgonyi@...> wrote:
GOT IT LOOSE! The trick is to clamp that tool without sandpaper and crank it down as tight as humanly possible. Also 3 weeks of wd40. Now to repair the fiberglass gouge. By the way, Maud can make you a new one for 3700 euros, if needs be. Cheers all, thank you so much for talking me through it! 


Re: Volvo D3 110 Sea Water Pump - Cover seal

 

Good point Scott, 

Disclaimer: I have never disassembled the D3 Raw Water Pump, and I am relying on drawing from Volvo.

I decided to take a look at the sea water pump for the Volvo D3
I was surprised to find that there is not a typical spring loaded mechanical seal, but rather what Volvo calls a "Sealing Ring."
image.png

The Volvo TMD22 raw water pump has a "Sealing Ring" and a "Sealing Washer" 
image.png
This is what a typical mechanical seal looks like:
image.png


The sea water pump in the Yanmar engines used by Amel incorporates a mechanical seal inside the pump
image.png

The sea water pump in the Onans used by Amel incorporates a mechanical seal inside the pump
 
image.png

All of the Calpeda Pumps, Dessalator Pumps, and All of the brands of the Amel installed freshwater pumps that I have seen incorporate a mechanical seal.

I guess I am predjudiced in my belief that a Mechanical Seal will last longer than a washer.

Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Feb 7, 2021 at 11:37 PM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Stefan,

I'm sure you have, but have you confirmed that the leak is from the cover? If the pump seal itself is leaking (ours did at around 2200hrs), saltwater will show up on that drip shield and might look like it comes from the pump cover.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Where best to locate Raymarine Evolution Autopilot EV-1 Sensor Core on Santorin

Grant Starling
 

Hi All,

Upgrading my old Autohelm 6000 for a Raymarine Evolution Autopilot on my Santorin.  The existing fluxgate compass from the Autohelm sits behind the port-side sofa backrest in the salon - within a niche.

Raymarine suggest keeping the EV-1 sensor core as central as possible on the boat but the current location of my fluxgate compass is quite a way off centre-line to port.  It is in a really good place in terms of avoiding electrical interference - but not central as recommended by Raymarine.

Questions:  Has anyone installed an EV-1 in that location?  Are there better alternatives I could consider?

The other less important issue I have is having to mount the new ACU-200 vertically - to reduce the risk of water ingress into the circuitry is what I understand to be the key driver.  My old autohelm ACU is mounted horizontally in the bulkhead above the galley sink, so I intend to mount the new ACU-200 in the same position and orientation - anyone done this?

Thanks all...

Grant


Re: Bow thruster tube anomaly

Davi Rozgonyi
 

GOT IT LOOSE! The trick is to clamp that tool without sandpaper and crank it down as tight as humanly possible. Also 3 weeks of wd40. Now to repair the fiberglass gouge. By the way, Maud can make you a new one for 3700 euros, if needs be. Cheers all, thank you so much for talking me through it! 


Rigging Bonding and newer 316 stainless steel

 

Rigging connection to bonding:
I was told that with the introduction of the A-54, the rigging, masts, and life rail were purposely or accidentally connected to the bonding system. Many of you know that this is not true with the SM. So, for some reason, a change was made with the introduction of the 54. Possibly this answers Mark Erdos' question.

Some completely anecdotal information on Amel stainless steel: 
I noticed more visible rusting of the rigging wire and life rails on the 54 than on the SM. I cannot say that this is connected to the bonding change. It could be the known change in stainless steel 316 quality. As the price of Molybdenum has increased and the availability decreased, I suspect that stainless steel manufacturers have decreased the amount of Molybdenum from around 5% in the 80s and 90s to much less today. As far as I know, there is no worldwide standard for the minimum amount of Molybdenum in 316 stainless steel and almost all of it is mined in the Americas, making it more difficult to acquire for European and Asian stainless steel manufacturers. There is probably a nasty secret that only some stainless steel manufacturing insiders know about this story. One more thing that we have no control over.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Feb 7, 2021 at 11:34 PM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Take a look at the photos posted earlier in this thread - the foam bits are attached to a separate line. Not connected to the coax itself.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Hardtop for Amel 54

 

Stephan,

I believe that there are many qualities of flexible panels with a wide range of current production per measure of area. Maybe I missed it, but did you specify which flexible panels you have?

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Mon, Feb 8, 2021 at 12:07 AM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Stefan,

This is exactly the data I was looking for - thank you.

So my math shows:

- Davit mounted (rigid?) panels produce about 33% more than surface mounted flexible panels. Makes sense since the hardtop mounted ones get hotter and/or are shaded more often.
- Comparing just davit mounted panels to davit mounted panels, lithium seems to result in the MPPT being able to put out almost twice the monthly cumulative power per watt of installed solar. That's pretty consistent with theory and what I saw when I compared my Victron output to another A54 who has a similar amount of installed solar in a similar location, with our only differences being lithium vs. agm.

I am guessing that you're wiring the hardtop mounted panels in serial. If you're bored and have nothing else to fix (hehe), I'd be curious what would happen to monthly solar output if you wired the flexible panels in parallel, which is theoretically more shade tolerant. That could make a big difference since your mizzen mast / main boom is probably shading one side or the other almost all day. Of course, you probably have to do a serial-parallel connection since I recall the flexible panels are usually 12v?


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Replacement bow thruster feet available!

Davi Rozgonyi
 

Hey all! FYI I just spoke with Maud. Amel can happily fabricate brand new bow thruster lower units if yours is damaged beyond repair. About 3700 euros. I thought this was good to share in our community. Otherwise, as in my case, damaged tubes can easily be repaired by polyester /fiberglass repair persons.

Cheers! 


Re: Hardtop for Amel 54

Scott SV Tengah
 

Stefan,

This is exactly the data I was looking for - thank you.

So my math shows:

- Davit mounted (rigid?) panels produce about 33% more than surface mounted flexible panels. Makes sense since the hardtop mounted ones get hotter and/or are shaded more often.
- Comparing just davit mounted panels to davit mounted panels, lithium seems to result in the MPPT being able to put out almost twice the monthly cumulative power per watt of installed solar. That's pretty consistent with theory and what I saw when I compared my Victron output to another A54 who has a similar amount of installed solar in a similar location, with our only differences being lithium vs. agm.

I am guessing that you're wiring the hardtop mounted panels in serial. If you're bored and have nothing else to fix (hehe), I'd be curious what would happen to monthly solar output if you wired the flexible panels in parallel, which is theoretically more shade tolerant. That could make a big difference since your mizzen mast / main boom is probably shading one side or the other almost all day. Of course, you probably have to do a serial-parallel connection since I recall the flexible panels are usually 12v?


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Volvo D3 110 Sea Water Pump - Cover seal

Scott SV Tengah
 

Stefan,

I'm sure you have, but have you confirmed that the leak is from the cover? If the pump seal itself is leaking (ours did at around 2200hrs), saltwater will show up on that drip shield and might look like it comes from the pump cover.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

Scott SV Tengah
 

Take a look at the photos posted earlier in this thread - the foam bits are attached to a separate line. Not connected to the coax itself.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

Scott SV Tengah
 

On the back of the ICOM vhf unit at the nav station, on A54 #69, the yellow/green bonding wire is connected to the case, specifically the "ground screw". Therefore case is grounded. I am not sure if Amel did this on SMs.

The outer part of the PL-259 plug is connected to the grounding foil on the coax cable. If you solder/crimp one on your own, this will become immediately apparent. At the head unit, that connects the PL-259 plug -> coax foil -> head unit case -> bonding

At the antenna, on A54 #69, the male threads of the VHF antenna is mounted through a drilled hole in a horizontal "platform" at the top of the mast. The female threads of the PL-259 are obviously continuous with the male threads of the antenna. Therefore the PL-259 is then continuous with the mast and therefore the rigging. On the old Banten antenna, the male threads were isolated since the antenna and coax were one piece and presumably designed so that the male threads are isolated from the coax ground foil. That is not the case with any antenna that uses a PL-259 plug.

I don't think connecting rigging to bonding is a bad thing. Per Olivier, Amel started doing this on A54s in 2009; I have asked a few post-2009 Amels who have not changed their VHF to test for continuity between bonding and rigging and they have confirmed that it exists. Therefore, I don't mind it. As a side benefit, once I made the change, there was much less tarnishing on stainless above the deck.  

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Volvo D3 110 Sea Water Pump - Cover seal

Karen Smith
 

Like Bill R suggests...  but also, look VERY closely at the smooth surface that the O-ring seals against.  A scratch there can make it impossible to get a good seal.  Anything you can feel with your fingernail is going to be a problem.

If you have scratches or other flaws, a very light addition of RTV gasket compound can fix it in the short run until a new smooth metal part can be obtained.  Too much RTV here can really cause issues with the pump.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Charleston, SC, USA


Re: Volvo D3 110 Sea Water Pump - Cover seal

Stefan Schaufert
 

Thank you Bill.
I just put it on my order list.

Best regards
Stefan
A54 # 119 Lady Charlyette, currently Bahamas


Re: Hardtop for Amel 54

Stefan Schaufert
 

Hi Scott,

I'm with you. The peak is not important, only interesting. I can only show you the average of the last 30 days.
I think it's appr. 40-45 kWh one month.
The panels (600W) over the Davids perform better (about 60 kWh), but the cockpit panels are a very good addition to keep the generator off for days.
Batteries are „only“ AGM - thus for charging is a lot potential left.

Stefan
A54 # 119 Lady Charlyette, currently Bahamas


Re: Bow thruster tube anomaly

Patrick McAneny
 

Davi, I can't suggest anything new about getting the shaft free. When I first tried to free it about 14 yrs. ago , my boat was on the hard , I dropped the bow thruster hard about 30 times and it finally broke free. 
However about the scratch on the tube, if  is not too deep ,and no structural weakness incurred , I would just fill the scratch with Interlux Watertite epoxy filler and sand smooth . This product is excellent to fill holes ,dings ,etc. below the waterline . It is waterproof ,dries rock hard , it does take a little effort to sand ,so don't build it up beyond what is necessary. Of course you would want to  degrease the area before applying it.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Davi Rozgonyi <davi.rozgonyi@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Sun, Feb 7, 2021 10:35 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow thruster tube anomaly

Bill, I got that tool cranked on as tight as humanly possible without resorting to a breaker bar right at the very top of tube, it seems to be holding, no sandpaper (it fits tighter). I'm going to keep this up for a few days.

If no luck, I was considering removing the tool, and building a cofferdam directly under the cast iron using plastic wrap, zip ties, duct tape, whatever wax sealant etc. Then I can empty a half can of penetrant and it will make a pool of the stuff an inch above the joint, leaving that for a few days and trying the tool again. Like putting a bag of vinegar on a shower head. Sound good?

I would tremendously appreciate any advice though on if a good fibreglass guy could repair the gouge in the tube later. It is not all the way through thank goodness. Is that the way to repair it? 

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