Date   
Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)

Courtney Gorman
 

Thanks perfect 


On Jan 5, 2020, at 8:17 AM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

These pictures should explain:
<B628101B-4F1B-4F89-8FFE-6CDE73EA5250.jpeg><93E6093B-6273-4505-A467-4AA9B8841A21.jpeg>

Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.

Thomas Peacock
 

Hi Andre,

Not sure about dimensions on the Mango, it worked well on my SM. Check your holes and clearance above the sink. 

I used "Comllen Commercial Stainless Steel Single Handle Pull Out Kitchen Faucet, Single Lever Pull Down Brushed Nickel Kitchen Faucets Without Deck Plate”, available at Amazon for $47. Installation was pretty straightforward. I may have had to widen the hole for the hoses on the back of the sink a little bit with a rasp. The plumbing connections, if my memory is correct (always suspect) were plug-and-play. If not, then an adapter was readily available at the local hardware store. 

My only regret is that I had not done it years before.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Martinique

On Jan 5, 2020, at 8:01 AM, Kaplan,Andre <kaplan@...> wrote:

Tom
Can you share the type and model of the new faucet you installed and where you sourced it?
Thank you
Andre Kaplan
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71,1988
Westbrook, CT


On Jan 4, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:


*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***
One last idea, regardless:

If you have the original Amel faucet mechanism (which I assume is similar to that on our boat), I would replace it no matter what the problem turns out to be. Our faucet was very simple, a hot/cold mixing control, and the rigid faucet. I replaced it with a more modern faucet, which has two extra features: a switch to select either regular flow or spray, and an inner hose extension which allows the faucet to be pulled out of its base.

Both of these features greatly enhance dish washing, and reduce water usage.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Martinique 

On Jan 4, 2020, at 8:28 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

I suggest you install check valves (one way valve) on the cold side before the mixer tap. This will prevent hot water working it’s way into the cold side.
It is a common problem especially when motoring as the hot water gets up to 80 degrees Celsius and will be at a slightly higher pressure than the cold.
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML 54
Greece


On 4 Jan 2020, at 09:58, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:



[Edited Message Follows]

Guys,

Thanks for your advices.
I'm living on board the boat in Alicante - Spain.

Cheers

Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323


Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)

Arno Luijten
 

These pictures should explain:

Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.

Kaplan,Andre
 

Tom
Can you share the type and model of the new faucet you installed and where you sourced it?
Thank you
Andre Kaplan
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71,1988
Westbrook, CT


On Jan 4, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:


*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***
One last idea, regardless:

If you have the original Amel faucet mechanism (which I assume is similar to that on our boat), I would replace it no matter what the problem turns out to be. Our faucet was very simple, a hot/cold mixing control, and the rigid faucet. I replaced it with a more modern faucet, which has two extra features: a switch to select either regular flow or spray, and an inner hose extension which allows the faucet to be pulled out of its base.

Both of these features greatly enhance dish washing, and reduce water usage.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Martinique 

On Jan 4, 2020, at 8:28 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

I suggest you install check valves (one way valve) on the cold side before the mixer tap. This will prevent hot water working it’s way into the cold side.
It is a common problem especially when motoring as the hot water gets up to 80 degrees Celsius and will be at a slightly higher pressure than the cold.
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML 54
Greece


On 4 Jan 2020, at 09:58, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:



[Edited Message Follows]

Guys,

Thanks for your advices.
I'm living on board the boat in Alicante - Spain.

Cheers

Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323

Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.

JOSE PRIETO
 

Hello Michael, Thank you for the idea.
I'll leave in line for another possible solution.
I checked the two hoses on the outside of the boiler and both are very hot - that means hot water is all over the water system and on the way back to the boiler it reheats. I am thinking of installing a checkvalve on the boiler cold water inlet hose imagining that the problem may be inside the boiler and not the taps.

Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323

Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.

michael winand
 

You can install a thermo mixing valve on the outlet of the water heater. This will limit the temperature to 50 to 60 Celsius  in the hot side. 

On Sun, 5 Jan 2020 at 8:16 pm, JOSE PRIETO
<prietomd11@...> wrote:
Hello guys,
Thanks for the feedback again,
 
Following ngtnewington Newington's reasoning, I think installing the check valve could solve the consequence, but not the cause of the problem. I'll probably do it if nothing else works.
Changing the tap as Thomas Peacock suggested, I will no doubt have a better system, but I haven't solved the source of the problem either.
I did some tests yesterday, removing the core from the galley faucet, and cleaning up the calcium buildup in the water mixing chamber, where through the oring could be running hot water from side to side. I reassembled the system with silicone grease, and the same problem happened again.
I considered swapping the core of the bathroom sink faucets for Galey's and testing it again.
I need to figure out how to lower the boiler water temperature, because I live in the marina and leave very little to navigate using the engine.
Good puzzle I got for myself.

Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323

Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.

JOSE PRIETO
 

Hello guys,
Thanks for the feedback again,
 
Following ngtnewington Newington's reasoning, I think installing the check valve could solve the consequence, but not the cause of the problem. I'll probably do it if nothing else works.
Changing the tap as Thomas Peacock suggested, I will no doubt have a better system, but I haven't solved the source of the problem either.
I did some tests yesterday, removing the core from the galley faucet, and cleaning up the calcium buildup in the water mixing chamber, where through the oring could be running hot water from side to side. I reassembled the system with silicone grease, and the same problem happened again.
I considered swapping the core of the bathroom sink faucets for Galey's and testing it again.
I need to figure out how to lower the boiler water temperature, because I live in the marina and leave very little to navigate using the engine.
Good puzzle I got for myself.

Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323

Re: removing the rudder on a SM2K

Jean-Pierre Massicotte
 

Hello Olaf, I have a Santorin, the built is very similar, I would send the pictures to SAV Amel for comments. In my case I had similar cracks along the rudder shaft and after consulting Amel was told not to worry and repair those cracks with epoxy pastes since that part was not structural! Remember those rudder are hollow construction. The back end are essentially fairing.

Since then I have done over 35 000 NM without problems. Hopefully the repair was done correctly using Amel technic.

Best regards

JP 

On Sat., Jan. 4, 2020, 20:35 Olaf Bauer, <olaf.bauer@...> wrote:
Hello AMELians,

does anyone have experiences with removing the rudder on a SM2K and could provide the steps (a how to) and what I have to consider while de-installing the rudder?

It seems that the previous owner hit something with the result that the rudder was broken out to the direction starboard. It also seemed that the PO repaired it but unfortunately not all, in a bad way or it got the cracks afterwards on the portside (see attached pic). The crack is on port side and highlighted in yellow in one of the attached pic. 

Thanks so much in advance.

Fair winds

Olaf

 

S/V Katchopine, SM2K 392

currently in Trinidad

removing the rudder on a SM2K

Olaf Bauer
 

Hello AMELians,

does anyone have experiences with removing the rudder on a SM2K and could provide the steps (a how to) and what I have to consider while de-installing the rudder?

It seems that the previous owner hit something with the result that the rudder was broken out to the direction starboard. It also seemed that the PO repaired it but unfortunately not all, in a bad way or it got the cracks afterwards on the portside (see attached pic). The crack is on port side and highlighted in yellow in one of the attached pic. 

Thanks so much in advance.

Fair winds

Olaf

 

S/V Katchopine, SM2K 392

currently in Trinidad

Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)

Courtney Gorman
 

Arno
could you be more clear about the stanchion I am not sure where it is
thanks
Courtney
sv Trippin
54 #101


-----Original Message-----
From: Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Jan 3, 2020 11:21 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)

Dear forum,

I discovered some water ingress in the rear locker of the boat and traced it back to failing sealant under the foot of the removable stanchion. So I removed the foot to discover a bit of sloppy work from Amel.
The hole goes trough the sandwich-deck leaving the balsa core exposed. The protection with caulking is insufficient as the three bolts that hold the foot cannot hold the foot completely in place as the sandwich flexes around the hole (compression of the balsa) ever so slightly. After some years this will cause the caulking to loose its seal and water will get to the balsa core.
On the long run this will have very bad consequences for the deck.

To remedy this I remove all caulking and removed the balsa core as far as I could between the two glass-fiber layers (about 3 or 4 cm deep). This also clears the three bolt-holes. Next I made sure it dried out completely, Impregnated the cavity as best I could with thin epoxy. After the epoxy set I filled the cavity completely with thickened epoxy. After this epoxy was set I re-drilled the boltholes. Finally I replaced the stanchion-foot with some Sikaflex. Because the boltholes are now in massive material you can properly tighten them, making the foot more stable and making the life for the caulking easier.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: New companionway lock source

Karen Smith
 

The keys are “Y2” and weren’t easy to find, but Amazon has them! If you’re in the Fort Lauderdale area I have some extras you could have!

Karen Smith
S/v Harmonie , Fort Lauderdale



Re: Propshaft alternator on 1985 Mango

Kaplan,Andre
 

Thanks for those insights
Andre


On Jan 4, 2020, at 4:31 AM, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:


*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***
On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 11:42 PM, Kaplan,Andre wrote:
As a Mango owner, I’m interested to know how you engage the alternator? Do you put the gearshift into forward or reverse while sailing? I understand there may be a difference depending on Model and year of the boat 
How much power do you generate when sailing?
Who did the rebuild for you?
Thanks for any insights you can share
Andre Kaplan
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71, 1988

 
 
 My Sharki from 1982 has a sticker near the gear shift level saying not to have the level in forward position and engine off while sailing.
Using the propshaft alternator the level must be in neutral position.
I have an instrument panel for the propshaft alternator with a switch key, an indicator lamp and an amp meter above the corridor to the aft cabine.
Depending the state of the battery the amp meter shows during sailing with about 6 knots 8 to 10 amps.
The propshaft alternator is a 40 Amps 12V Bosch type.
Rebuilding such an alternator does any good car repair shop for electric equippment.
The regulator is a cheap part you can buy at every car shop.


--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece

Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.

Thomas Peacock
 

One last idea, regardless:

If you have the original Amel faucet mechanism (which I assume is similar to that on our boat), I would replace it no matter what the problem turns out to be. Our faucet was very simple, a hot/cold mixing control, and the rigid faucet. I replaced it with a more modern faucet, which has two extra features: a switch to select either regular flow or spray, and an inner hose extension which allows the faucet to be pulled out of its base.

Both of these features greatly enhance dish washing, and reduce water usage.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Martinique 

On Jan 4, 2020, at 8:28 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

I suggest you install check valves (one way valve) on the cold side before the mixer tap. This will prevent hot water working it’s way into the cold side.
It is a common problem especially when motoring as the hot water gets up to 80 degrees Celsius and will be at a slightly higher pressure than the cold.
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML 54
Greece


On 4 Jan 2020, at 09:58, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:



[Edited Message Follows]

Guys,

Thanks for your advices.
I'm living on board the boat in Alicante - Spain.

Cheers

Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323

Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.

ngtnewington Newington
 

I suggest you install check valves (one way valve) on the cold side before the mixer tap. This will prevent hot water working it’s way into the cold side.
It is a common problem especially when motoring as the hot water gets up to 80 degrees Celsius and will be at a slightly higher pressure than the cold.
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML 54
Greece


On 4 Jan 2020, at 09:58, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:



[Edited Message Follows]

Guys,

Thanks for your advices.
I'm living on board the boat in Alicante - Spain.

Cheers

Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323

Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.

JOSE PRIETO
 
Edited

Guys,

Thanks for your advices.
I'm living on board the boat in Alicante - Spain.

Cheers

Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323

Re: Propshaft alternator on 1985 Mango

Gerhard Mueller
 


--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece

Re: Propshaft alternator on 1985 Mango

Gerhard Mueller
 

On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 11:42 PM, Kaplan,Andre wrote:
As a Mango owner, I’m interested to know how you engage the alternator? Do you put the gearshift into forward or reverse while sailing? I understand there may be a difference depending on Model and year of the boat 
How much power do you generate when sailing?
Who did the rebuild for you?
Thanks for any insights you can share
Andre Kaplan
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71, 1988

 
 
 My Sharki from 1982 has a sticker near the gear shift level saying not to have the level in forward position and engine off while sailing.
Using the propshaft alternator the level must be in neutral position.
I have an instrument panel for the propshaft alternator with a switch key, an indicator lamp and an amp meter above the corridor to the aft cabine.
Depending the state of the battery the amp meter shows during sailing with about 6 knots 8 to 10 amps.
The propshaft alternator is a 40 Amps 12V Bosch type.
Rebuilding such an alternator does any good car repair shop for electric equippment.
The regulator is a cheap part you can buy at every car shop.


--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece

Re: New companionway lock source

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi JP. You will need to take your key to mobile locksmith kaitaia.

Regards

Danny

On 04 January 2020 at 17:58 Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

Hey Danny,

Happy New Year.

Good to know regarding key blanks; I need 2 more keys

JPG
Jean-Pierre Germain



On 4 Jan 2020, at 17:55, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS < simms@...> wrote:

I got mine done by the Kaitaia locksmith in New Zealand. He inovatively had to grind a bit to extend the blank. Worked well.

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 04 January 2020 at 17:43 Drew Gaffney < drew.gaffney@...> wrote:

We have been able to obtain key copies in several countries including the US.  Bring an original key and take it to a good hardware store or locksmith.
Drew 
SV REVELATION SM390
Lying Carloforte, Sardinia


 


 

Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.

Richard Colebatch
 

Hi Brent,

How did your last Amel trip go?  I think I am right aren't I?

Rgds

Richard



On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 4:34 PM Brent Cameron <brentcameron61@...> wrote:
I had a very similar situation to that one time in my house…. I woke up one morning to find that the water in the toilet bowl was steaming!  Thankfully, I realized it before splashing myself.  It turned out to be the mixing valve in the shower that allowed hot water to go back around to the cold side - they need to have very nearly equal pressure on both sides or they can act up apparently.  Anyway, I couldn’t change the valve without destroying the tile so installed check valves in the supply lines to them which solved the problem.  It’s been working fine for 22 years since then with no more unintentionally sterilized toilet bowls.
On Jan 3, 2020, 6:21 PM -0500, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...>, wrote:
This sounds like a brain-teaser offered up by a radio show.

However, I will bite. On the surface of things, it makes no sense. The water tank temperature should be about what the water temperature of your sea water is. I hope it’s not due to global warming!

The route from the water tank to the pump is quite short, also quite short from the pump to your sink. Your engine room might make water a little warm in the pipes, but not that much. My best guess is that the mixing mechanism in the faucet is broken. However, that would not explain why the filtered water is also hot. 

So I’m stumped. What I would do is turn the water pump off, depressurize the system, and then disconnect the cold water hose from the faucet, under the sink. Turn the water pump back on, with a bucket to catch the water. See if it’s cold, if so, then replace the faucet. If hot, then trace it back and make sure somebody didn’t alter the hoses. 

You’re not by any chance in the Bermuda Triangle?

Sorry for my poor attempts at humor, I do believe your description. It’s just a bit of a stumper.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Martinique


On Jan 3, 2020, at 5:26 PM, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:

Hello guys,
I have a problem that maybe some of you have already had, and can help me.
When using the kitchen faucet, my wife complained that the water was too hot, even in the position that she always used the mixer handle.
I went to check and realized that the water was really very hot regardless the tap handle position. I also verify that the hot water was returning through the cold water pipe.
I checked the filtered tap on the side and it was also coming out of hot water (supposedly it should only be cold).
Only after some time with the tap handle in the cold position did the water return to normal (cold), but it was enough to return to the intermediate position that the water overheated and the cold water pipe became hot again.
Any suggestion?
Thank you in advance.

Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323



--
Brent Cameron

Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator

Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada

Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.

Brent Cameron
 

I had a very similar situation to that one time in my house…. I woke up one morning to find that the water in the toilet bowl was steaming!  Thankfully, I realized it before splashing myself.  It turned out to be the mixing valve in the shower that allowed hot water to go back around to the cold side - they need to have very nearly equal pressure on both sides or they can act up apparently.  Anyway, I couldn’t change the valve without destroying the tile so installed check valves in the supply lines to them which solved the problem.  It’s been working fine for 22 years since then with no more unintentionally sterilized toilet bowls.

On Jan 3, 2020, 6:21 PM -0500, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...>, wrote:
This sounds like a brain-teaser offered up by a radio show.

However, I will bite. On the surface of things, it makes no sense. The water tank temperature should be about what the water temperature of your sea water is. I hope it’s not due to global warming!

The route from the water tank to the pump is quite short, also quite short from the pump to your sink. Your engine room might make water a little warm in the pipes, but not that much. My best guess is that the mixing mechanism in the faucet is broken. However, that would not explain why the filtered water is also hot. 

So I’m stumped. What I would do is turn the water pump off, depressurize the system, and then disconnect the cold water hose from the faucet, under the sink. Turn the water pump back on, with a bucket to catch the water. See if it’s cold, if so, then replace the faucet. If hot, then trace it back and make sure somebody didn’t alter the hoses. 

You’re not by any chance in the Bermuda Triangle?

Sorry for my poor attempts at humor, I do believe your description. It’s just a bit of a stumper.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Martinique


On Jan 3, 2020, at 5:26 PM, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:

Hello guys,
I have a problem that maybe some of you have already had, and can help me.
When using the kitchen faucet, my wife complained that the water was too hot, even in the position that she always used the mixer handle.
I went to check and realized that the water was really very hot regardless the tap handle position. I also verify that the hot water was returning through the cold water pipe.
I checked the filtered tap on the side and it was also coming out of hot water (supposedly it should only be cold).
Only after some time with the tap handle in the cold position did the water return to normal (cold), but it was enough to return to the intermediate position that the water overheated and the cold water pipe became hot again.
Any suggestion?
Thank you in advance.

Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323



--
Brent Cameron

Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator

Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada