|
Re: Ice makers
Hi Courtney,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
After seeing Delos fixing his we hired a car and drove to Darte yesterday in Fort de France, Martinique. They will not have any until October. Looking for a compact unit 220V. As we are in the process of converting to Lithium Penny now wants all the mod cons that she can have. Also looking forward to any recommendations for an ice maker, no doubt they are all still made in Chine. Very Best Barry and Penny “Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique
On Sep 4, 2020, at 09:01, Courtney Gorman via groups.io <Itsfun1@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Ice makers
Cheers Courtney Trippin 54 #101
|
|
|
|
Re: Water maker Questions
Not sure what your "green zone" translates to in bars as I have a gauge with numbers and 60 bars +/- is where these operate (actually I usually get good tds at 850 psi / 58 bars). These pumps typically deliver up to 69 bars / 1000 psi, which would be a fine pressure at which to test.
-- Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
|
|
|
|
Re: Main Furling gear box connection to foil
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Hi Giovanni,
When we had the same problem after about 10 years and 50,000 miles the Amel team in Guadeloupe took about 2.5 cm off the bottom of the foil and drilled new holes.
One day I shall go up to the top of the mast when the main is up and see how many more times I can do that. If the length became really tight I'm sure there are other solutions, though none so easy.
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada, Greece ( to where we fly next week !)
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Giovanni TESTA <giovannitesta53@...>
Sent: 04 September 2020 09:07 To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main Furling gear box connection to foil Hi to all,
|
|
|
|
Main Furling gear box connection to foil
Hi to all,
|
|
|
|
Re: Water maker Questions
Hi Porter,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Both brass fittings have just been replaced on the pump by me, in and out a few times. The high pressure side broke off completely and the low pressure/inlet had a hairline crack. I only discovered the hairline crack after it was all back in place. Getting the broken thread out was fun! The brass fittings that I used for replacement were thicker than the original. I did use tape, I will monitor this for now but will probably take it out again and reseal the brass fittings with some type of locktight. Could anyone tell me if I should I use Stainless Steel? I don’t like changing things, Olivier told me when we bought that we should keep everything the same. Thank’s for the information about not using tape. See photo below: Barry and Penny “SV Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. 17 Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique
On Sep 3, 2020, at 22:22, Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: Water maker Questions
Porter McRoberts
Thanks Nick! I appreciate it. Yes. That’s the elbow. They have others in brass here too. They’ve worked up the pump with another brass one. And also used Teflon tape to seal the high pressure threads, I was told not to use Teflon by Dessalator, rather the Locktite 542. Which, when I use, it does not leak. Funny to have high pressure hydraulic fittings on one side, and garden hose variety fittings on the other side, both with the same pressure.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
They guys seem very confident in their assessment on the pump. Lots of other cat pumps lying around adding to the gravitas of their opinion. I’ll ask them to pressure test to 65 bar. I want a failure in their shop. Not the Tuamotus! Good luck with your Haulout. Porter Porter McRoberts S/V IBIS A54-152 WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206Www.fouribis.net
On Sep 3, 2020, at 5:58 PM, ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: Water maker Questions
Hi Porter,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
When I bought Amelia, the 160 litre per hour 220v watermaker produced a fine mist of salt water. It turned out to be that Brass Elbow between the CAT pump and the pressure bulb that you refer to. There was a small pin hole! I went to “Watermaker Services” in Antigua and showed him the elbow. He said that fitting is not rated for high pressure and sold me a stainless one for $5. Never had a problem since. By the way he pumped up the bulb with some gas ( can not remember, what gas, nitrogen?) and said it should be pumped up ever couple of years. I asked him it’s purpose; he told me it was like a cushion or damper for the system when the CAT pump kicks in. So could be an easy fix... Nick Amelia in Leros getting ready to haul out and head home. AML 54-019
On 4 Sep 2020, at 05:22, Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: Water maker Questions
Porter McRoberts
Gary et all I’ve read this thread a bunch and it is super helpful. Thanks for all your insights, and others. I’ve removed our cat pump several times in the past week and it’s a real bear. Issue: leaking at high pressure from somewhere around the head. I’ve taken our 160 to a cat repair place here in Tahiti, thinking I found the leak and needed a new head. Long story short, they found a small hole in the brass elbow going up to the blue stabilization bulb. They think that’s the issue. I am skeptical. Since install and removal is several hours and horrible on the back I’d like to know if anyone knows what pressure the pump is rated for, and also what peak pressure I can reasonably expect to see when running the pump. It seems like 60-65 bar would be that number, aiming for 56-58 The guys at the shop pressure tested it to 30 bar with no leaks. I am asking them to retest to 60. They say that’s the maximum the pump is rated to. Is that true? What Bar is the low end of the green zone, and the high end of the green zone, assuming my guage is accurate, which I suspend mine not to be (we make 200+l/hr still well below the end of the green zone)? I’dlike this to be my last trip behind the generator for a while!!!
|
|
|
|
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading
Hi José,
Next time just remove the thermostat (don't put in the spare). It is not too important anyway as it simply allows the engine to come up to temperature more quickly by restricting the cooling water flow - once the engine is hot the thermostat is irrelevant. So, with no thermostat you can clearly observe the flow of coolant by leaving the cap off. Then you can differentiate between a failed cooling water pump and a bad temperature sender (or connections in its circuit). As you noted, you had already eliminated a raw water problem. After you sort that out you can test the thermostats by putting them in boiling water and seeing if they open and maybe not have to order a new one (pretty unlikely you've got two failed ones). Going diving in Bonaire? I'm jealous. Ciao, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
|
|
|
|
Re: Super Maramu Ballooner halyard hook
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Paul, I think you are correct in that it breaks when sideways load occurs which should not happen if everything is operating as designed. The nylon hook has little tolerance to this loading. In my case it was because the alloy locating tongue for the swivel had worn through. If you read the Amel instructions for ballooner hoisting you will see the need for very careful positioning of the foil track (and the swivel) which allows the hook to work. I did not know that this tongue was prone to wear and had many frustrating hoists of the ballooner when it was more luck than good management that had the halyard lock work. As I prepared for a Pacific voyage from New Zealand another owner made me aware of this small but vital item. But why did it wear through. Another discovery was the fact there is a nylon pencil or crayon in the track that the tongue is entered into. In my case this was missing through all my ownership to this point. Because it had never been there I had no way of knowing it was missing. I shared this information at the time. Until I found this the tongue continued to wear. So again Paul, you are correct and I fixed the symptom not the cause. However, I now have both and I am sure the alloy hook is doing no harm and I am protected from accidental loading. So folks, make sure your tongue and pencil/crayon are both in place and in good repair and enjoy your ballooner. Kind Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl Mangonui New Zealand
On 03 September 2020 at 23:14 Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading
Von meinem iPhone gesendet
|
|
|
|
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading
t is perhaps a good idea to install a thermometer to control the temperature exhaust water . Then you have a reference .
Best Elja SM Balu 222 Von meinem iPhone gesendet
|
|
|
|
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading
Kevin Schmit
Use a handheld I/R (Infared Thermometer} to get independent temp readings.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Sep 3, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading
Jose Venegas
This was a very useful 3-year-old set of postings for me. We just crossed from Grenada to Curaçao sailing for 48 hours with double spy and 18-22 knots of wind from the starboard stern. As we got close to Bonaire on Sunday morning, the wind began to drop and, to make sure we got to Curaçao before the marina personnel left, I turned the engine on to motor sail when the wind dropped to 10 knots. We kept our 6 knots of speed, and everything was fine until the corner of my eye showed the temp gauge pegged at 250 F !!!. The raw water stream from the exhaust U pipe was luck warm and I proceeded to make a quick change of thermostat for a brand new I had on board. No luck, the temp went back to 250. At his point, it became a matter of sailing with winds of 4 to 6 knots as we approached the entrance of the Punta Santa Barbara channel that leads into the Ceru Boca marina and tied up at a pier on the channel just before the sun disappeared from the horizon. Next early morning I took apart the thermostat housing again, cleaned the surfaces, and closed it again. The test appeared successful for 10 minutes or more at 1500 RPM under load (Temp 200 F) but as we proceeded to motor up the few miles to the Marina, the temp went up again to 250 F for just a few seconds before it came back to 230 F. Yesterday, I ran a new test, this time at 1800 RMP for more than 15 minutes and the temp when up and remained at 220. I noticed that with the radiator cap opened the seem to be movement of the antifreeze and few gas bubbles would come out once in a while. This, I thought, was meant that there was a flow of antifreeze but its temperature was bearly warm.
After reading this set of posts, It seems possible that it could be either a faulty sensor, the gauge, or the cable to the gauge. Any other thoughts/suggestions. I am ordering a new thermostat to the US in the next few days. Hope you are all well and sailing. Jose Venegas Ipanema SM2K 278
|
|
|
|
Re: Topping lift bungee replacement A54
David Crisp
Many thanks Ulrich. Tomorrow's project!
-- David Crisp SV Wilna Grace Amel 54 #58
|
|
|
|
Re: VP TMD 22 removal
Heat?
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Sep 3, 2020, at 5:26 PM, Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: VP TMD 22 removal
Since you are starting to distort the nut, you might try a "vice grip" locking pliers adjusted very tight. Plus some PB blaster as Justin suggested.
-- Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
|
|
|
|
Re: VP TMD 22 removal
How about using a penetrating lubricant like PB Blaster? I would recommend a few liberal applications and some wait time to give it time to work.
On Thu, Sep 3, 2020 at 8:55 AM Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote: I trying to remove the Turbo for maintenance or replacement, but can't get the high pressure tube to lose. The nut is copper, key number 10 is to small an key number 11 to large. Filed a key 10 to the right size but still stuck. Tried with small blowtorch but did not helped. The copper nut is also rather soft so key/wrench is slipping. Any idea how to proceed? -- Justin Paulsen IT Professional "The world is open, are you?"
|
|
|
|
VP TMD 22 removal
I trying to remove the Turbo for maintenance or replacement, but can't get the high pressure tube to lose. The nut is copper, key number 10 is to small an key number 11 to large. Filed a key 10 to the right size but still stuck. Tried with small blowtorch but did not helped. The copper nut is also rather soft so key/wrench is slipping. Any idea how to proceed?
Paul on sykerpa SM 259 Lagos Portugal
|
|
|
