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Re: Breaker Panel Label Back Lights

Arno Luijten
 

Hi David,

Because of your remark I just remembered something about this. When I repopulated the PCBs with new LEDs I also replaced the resistors.
When you buy this package from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/microtivity-IL142-Diffused-Blue-Resistors/dp/B0059H5Z5O/ref=sr_1_24?dchild=1&keywords=blue+led+5mm&qid=1596107237&sr=8-24
you get the LEDs with a resistor. If I remember correctly this was the actual package I bought. You will need three packages and have a lot of spares after installation. I replaced the existing resistors with the new ones. It will increase the voltage output for the regulator compared to no resistor and make it more stable.

Apparently these LEDs take 20 mA each. So two in series for every switch is still 20 mA. Multiply this by the number of panel switches which I think are 34. So, 34 x 20 = 680 mA. So at 500 mA they will receive about 15 mA.
I don't remember exactly but I think I was happy with this from brightness point of view. So I kept it at that as this will improve the life-span of the LEDs even more.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121
Re: Fuel tank vent fitting ?

Ian Park
 

On my Santorin the return fuel pipe from the injectors comes off the engine and back to the tank. On top of the tank is the air vent pipe that is visible in the passage way heading out to the scuppers where there is a vent hole in the side of the hull - to stop back pressure in the filler pipe when re-fuelling. 

Ian
Ocean Hobo SN96


On 30 Jul 2020, at 04:38, Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:



[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Tom and Kirstin,

I'm not on my boat so can't be sure, but is it the fuel return line from the injectors on each engine?

That was good fortune to dodge the hurricane !

Cheers

Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: Breaker Panel Label Back Lights

David Crisp
 

Thanks Arno,
Excellent information and advice, makes sense to me.  I have only a very moderate knowledge of electronics and was wondering why the LEDs failed in the first place and how to prevent a re-occurrence. Judging by the colouration of one PCB it looks like the resistors had at some time got pretty hot, presumably when the voltage got high..
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58
Re: Fuel tank vent fitting ?

Alan Leslie
 
Edited

Hi Tom and Kirstin,

I'm not on my boat so can't be sure, but is it the fuel return line from the injectors on each engine?

That was good fortune to dodge the hurricane !

Cheers

Alan
Elyse SM437
Re: Rub rail purchase

Patrick McAneny
 

Eric, It is made from EPDM, the same material that most all exterior products of this type is made from. I am sure that your insert is made from the same material. I will receive a 6 inch sample to confirm that the insert is an exact match of the original. Craig is going down to pick up a sample piece,as he is only an hour away. Once we determine that the insert is an exact reproduction, if you need to confirm this for yourself ,I will forward my sample on to you. Let me know if you would like to be included in the group buy.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans 
Re: Rub rail purchase

eric freedman
 

Is this a semi rigid material or a rubbery material?

Fair Winds,

Eric

On July 29, 2020 at 8:55 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Craig,
I will be happy to order the rail insert once i can confirm it is the one that is on Kimberlite.
I only need a very small piece. One foot would be fine.
My email is Kimberlite@...
Fair Winds
Eric
sm 376

On July 29, 2020 at 6:23 PM "Craig & Katherine Briggs via groups.io" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Hi Eric,
Not to step on a reply from Pat, but today I visited the company, Techno Rubber to go over "our" order. I took my entire starboard side insert and they had Pat's sample. While there, we had a conference call with Pat with the sample inserts sitting in the office so we could discuss them. They have their extrusion dies made by an outside supplier, which is being done now, based on the sample Pat sent them. (These are not pre-defined "models" but custom machined steel dies.)  The die should be back next week and they will run off a few feet, sending some to Pat and I'll pick one up, too (I am close to the shop). After Pat and I check them for any needed fine tuning, we'll give the OK for full length runs.

I was very favorably impressed - this is a small but substantial and very credible family owned operation with three extrusion lines of about 100' each making all sorts of similar extruded products.

There is no question of having the "correct model" - as noted it is custom (no "model #") and Pat and I will check it out. Of course, we can send you a foot or so. If you can commit it would be great so we can share the die cost.  Let us know, please.

ANY OTHER SM OR SN OWNERS WANTING TO REPLACE THEIR (scuzzy, UV damaged, oxidized and ugly) RUB RAIL INSERTS - NOW'S THE TIME!  Let Pat (or me) know, please.

The new ones will be white, (not the original Amel baby diaper brown) - the same as the standard extruded rub rails on pilings and docks that you see everywhere.

Cheers, Craig 
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL

 


 


 
Re: Rub rail purchase

eric freedman
 

Pat,
once i can match up the sample i will be happy to order the insert.
You can use my FedEx number to get the sample to me quickly.
Kimberlite@...
Eric

On July 29, 2020 at 7:13 PM "Patrick McAneny via groups.io" <sailw32@...> wrote:

Eric, I can’t add much to Craig’s reply, Craig and I will both trail fit a sample on our boats,to confirm the fit. The die is being made directly from a cross section that we cut from our rub rail insert.If you or any owner would like to join the group buy, please contact me so that I can add you to the list. I expect to place the order in roughly ten days.

Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


 

Re: Rub rail purchase

eric freedman
 

Hi Craig,
I will be happy to order the rail insert once i can confirm it is the one that is on Kimberlite.
I only need a very small piece. One foot would be fine.
My email is Kimberlite@...
Fair Winds
Eric
sm 376

On July 29, 2020 at 6:23 PM "Craig & Katherine Briggs via groups.io" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Hi Eric,
Not to step on a reply from Pat, but today I visited the company, Techno Rubber to go over "our" order. I took my entire starboard side insert and they had Pat's sample. While there, we had a conference call with Pat with the sample inserts sitting in the office so we could discuss them. They have their extrusion dies made by an outside supplier, which is being done now, based on the sample Pat sent them. (These are not pre-defined "models" but custom machined steel dies.)  The die should be back next week and they will run off a few feet, sending some to Pat and I'll pick one up, too (I am close to the shop). After Pat and I check them for any needed fine tuning, we'll give the OK for full length runs.

I was very favorably impressed - this is a small but substantial and very credible family owned operation with three extrusion lines of about 100' each making all sorts of similar extruded products.

There is no question of having the "correct model" - as noted it is custom (no "model #") and Pat and I will check it out. Of course, we can send you a foot or so. If you can commit it would be great so we can share the die cost.  Let us know, please.

ANY OTHER SM OR SN OWNERS WANTING TO REPLACE THEIR (scuzzy, UV damaged, oxidized and ugly) RUB RAIL INSERTS - NOW'S THE TIME!  Let Pat (or me) know, please.

The new ones will be white, (not the original Amel baby diaper brown) - the same as the standard extruded rub rails on pilings and docks that you see everywhere.

Cheers, Craig 
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL

 

Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

karkauai
 

Hi Eric,
Cancel my order, mine are normally open. I have a 1999 6.5KW MDKAL Onan. I guess that means if they fail to close, my engine gets hot and doesn't shut down. Both times mine failed closed and the engine would start up and immediately shut down. Once it was intermittent and difficult to diagnose.

Thanks anyway, and cancel the three I ordered.  If it's too late, let me know.  If your guy can make the normally open ones, I'd be interested.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy


On Jul 29, 2020 1:13 AM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
Mike,
These are simple thermal switches. They are normally closed.
If the circuit opens up the genset stops.
My problem is sometimes they burn out and other times I hit the switch and it separates.
Fair Winds,
Eric

On July 28, 2020 at 10:41 PM "Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)" <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Thanks Eric. Sent you a message with order details.

When these fail, go bad, or break, how do you know? Does it prevent the genset from starting/running? Or does it allow the genset to overheat if there are issues with the cooling system (broken impeller for example) and potentially damage things?

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
Opua, NZ


 

Re: Rub rail purchase

eric freedman
 

Hi Craig,
I

On July 29, 2020 at 6:23 PM "Craig & Katherine Briggs via groups.io" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Hi Eric,
Not to step on a reply from Pat, but today I visited the company, Techno Rubber to go over "our" order. I took my entire starboard side insert and they had Pat's sample. While there, we had a conference call with Pat with the sample inserts sitting in the office so we could discuss them. They have their extrusion dies made by an outside supplier, which is being done now, based on the sample Pat sent them. (These are not pre-defined "models" but custom machined steel dies.)  The die should be back next week and they will run off a few feet, sending some to Pat and I'll pick one up, too (I am close to the shop). After Pat and I check them for any needed fine tuning, we'll give the OK for full length runs.

I was very favorably impressed - this is a small but substantial and very credible family owned operation with three extrusion lines of about 100' each making all sorts of similar extruded products.

There is no question of having the "correct model" - as noted it is custom (no "model #") and Pat and I will check it out. Of course, we can send you a foot or so. If you can commit it would be great so we can share the die cost.  Let us know, please.

ANY OTHER SM OR SN OWNERS WANTING TO REPLACE THEIR (scuzzy, UV damaged, oxidized and ugly) RUB RAIL INSERTS - NOW'S THE TIME!  Let Pat (or me) know, please.

The new ones will be white, (not the original Amel baby diaper brown) - the same as the standard extruded rub rails on pilings and docks that you see everywhere.

Cheers, Craig 
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL

 

Re: Breaker Panel Label Back Lights

Arno Luijten
 

Sorry my bad. There are just too many of these things. You cannot use the constant current source I mentioned earlier.

This one should work, depending on your LEDs of choice (total current of LEDs must match the Current Source):
https://www.amazon.com/LuxDrive-Wired-BuckPuck-Constant-Current/dp/B00LWU1EJS/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=LuxDrive+Wired+BuckPuck+-+500mA&qid=1596065887&sr=8-1
It may actually be the one I've use myself. I can't remember and the boat is 800 km away at the moment...

Sorry for the confusion,

Arno
Re: Rub rail purchase

Patrick McAneny
 

Eric, I can’t add much to Craig’s reply, Craig and I will both trail fit a sample on our boats,to confirm the fit. The die is being made directly from a cross section that we cut from our rub rail insert.If you or any owner would like to join the group buy, please contact me so that I can add you to the list. I expect to place the order in roughly ten days.

Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Fuel tank vent fitting ?

Thomas Kleman
 

On SM2K 422 there is a outlet fitting and hose at the top aft of the fuel tank. It runs down the scupper to a "T" next to the genset muffler. One leg runs back under the Yanmar and I can't see where it goes. Is this an overfill/expansion feature and if so where does it terminate ? I assume I get fuel in my bilge if this ever happens......and where does the other leg go (sort of disappears under genset).

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Still happy to be floating after Hurricane Douglas near Miss in Oahu
Re: Rub rail purchase

Chad & Leslie Shoaf
 

I would be interested in the rub rail for an 85 Maramu.  

Chad

On Fri, Jul 24, 2020, 7:57 AM James Watkins via groups.io <ewatk49734=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Pat  I am the owner of a Maramu hull 185 and am going to also replace the rubrail but as I understand it is quite different than the one you are ordering.  Only send this to let you know that I am also in the process of ordering a die to do a new rub rail from Techno Rubber Industries also.  Only mention it as they may be even sharper on pricing if a couple of different Amel models are ordering from them.  I don’t have any idea if other Maramu or Sharki owers would like to replace their rub rail but getting more order for a custom part always saves money and after thirty years or so they do need replacing. 

 

Best Regards

Jim Watkins

Act II Maramu hull 185

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Patrick McAneny via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2020 1:14 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Rub rail purchase

 

Vladimir, I have a sketch that Maude sent me,which I will send. But the rub rail is going to be fabricated based on an actual piece of rubrail to be certain it is an exact reproduction. They will send me a sample before production begins. I have paid for the design/die so the order is in the works. The order will be placed within the next ten days, so I urge anyone interested to join the group buy soon. The more owners that place an order will bring the price even lower.
 Thanks,
Par
Shenanigans #123

 
Re: Rub rail purchase

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Eric,
Not to step on a reply from Pat, but today I visited the company, Techno Rubber to go over "our" order. I took my entire starboard side insert and they had Pat's sample. While there, we had a conference call with Pat with the sample inserts sitting in the office so we could discuss them. They have their extrusion dies made by an outside supplier, which is being done now, based on the sample Pat sent them. (These are not pre-defined "models" but custom machined steel dies.)  The die should be back next week and they will run off a few feet, sending some to Pat and I'll pick one up, too (I am close to the shop). After Pat and I check them for any needed fine tuning, we'll give the OK for full length runs.

I was very favorably impressed - this is a small but substantial and very credible family owned operation with three extrusion lines of about 100' each making all sorts of similar extruded products.

There is no question of having the "correct model" - as noted it is custom (no "model #") and Pat and I will check it out. Of course, we can send you a foot or so. If you can commit it would be great so we can share the die cost.  Let us know, please.

ANY OTHER SM OR SN OWNERS WANTING TO REPLACE THEIR (scuzzy, UV damaged, oxidized and ugly) RUB RAIL INSERTS - NOW'S THE TIME!  Let Pat (or me) know, please.

The new ones will be white, (not the original Amel baby diaper brown) - the same as the standard extruded rub rails on pilings and docks that you see everywhere.

Cheers, Craig 
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
Re: Rub rail purchase

eric freedman
 

Hi Pat,

I am also interested in a new rub rail insert.

Do you think the company can make a few short samples just to make sure we have the correct model?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2020 1:21 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Rub rail purchase

 

I have sent a cross section of my rubrail ,from my Super Maramu to Techno Rubber Industries in Fla. ,they will produce a die and sample for my inspection . I intend to place an order as soon as I receive the sample and final pricing. The die will cost me $450.00 ,the rub rail will run somewhere around $11 per ft. ,roughly $1200. The more boats ordering would bring the price down and I would like to share the cost of the die. The rub rail would be slightly off white. Another owner of a Mango has already purchased from this company and was happy with the service and product. Shipping to Maryland where I live is roughly estimated to be about $200.
So if anyone would like to join me in a group buy ,please email me at , sailw32@... . I will give the final number of orders to the company as soon as I get the sample from them. They will then give me a final price based on the number of orders ,the more the less. I will probably place the order within the next ten days,so please get back to me ASAP.
Thanks,
Pat McAneny
SM Shenanigans #123

Re: Color code of hull Amel 54

Brent Cameron
 

Thanks Alexander.  I fully agree and have had the pleasure of spending a couple of months cumulatively crewing on various Amel’s on long passages (all SM’s but I’ve been on lots of Amel 54’s and love them too).  I can’t imagine buying another boat.  

Thanks!

On Jul 29, 2020, 5:04 PM -0400, Alexander Hofmann <DACJ@...>, wrote:
Hi Brent
This 'Gold Line' has been more or less a design study applied on the A54 for the future Amel boats, that I never would have bought. I rely on the 25 years experience of Amel with Santorin to A54, inorporating tons of experiences of cruising sailors. I have been one of the last üpotential new boat buyers of A54, but the new ones came surpringly fast. So I bought a 3 year old 'gold line'.
I like the design, it is a more mordern and 'younger' touch, but it is not more indeed as a Gold/sand line instead of red and a number of design and light features inside. Nothing concerning basic principes of Amel, saftey or performance of the ship. 
I did only use the term 'fist gold line' on SY Oceanica I Amel54#156 because Carina did use it for SY Ultimo Amel54#165.
Can only encourage you, Brent, to stay with Super Maramu or A54, if you want to go round our beautiful planet in a most safe way. The Amel way. 
The newer Amel boart are good, for sure, but made for a newer clientel which is relevant today on the boat markets, and not anmore the old Amel dinosaurs ... like me. :-)
All the best
Alexander

--
Brent Cameron

Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator

Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada
Re: A54 holding tank drain seasock

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Teun, I agree with the regular opening and closing. Best way to prevent problems. Also for the head valves and tubing at least 30 second flushes. When I have guests on board you cant expect them to follow this so at the end of the day I go to each head and do a one minute flush. 

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 30 July 2020 at 05:02 Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

When I got on AMELIT in NOUMEA she had been sitting idle for close to 20 months and the aft bathroom valve was stuck: we planned on replacing when she came out of the water. Thanks to a very, very skinny (arms & hands) & persistent sidekick of my excellent (but high labor cost) local mechanic (Willie) he got it to work. Also the aft bathroom shower/sink valve in the engine room got stripped in the open position and this one is glassed into the watertight bulkhead. Impossible or extreme difficult to replace. So I added a PVC (??) valve at the end of the hose near the bilge. Since then I exercise (open/close 3 times) ALL 7 valves every other Saturday morning – I know is overkill but also no big deal.

 

Best Regards Teun

 

SV AMELIT  A54 #128

July 29, 2020 12:01:54

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arno Luijten via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2020 06:03
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 holding tank drain seasock

 

Hi Soraya,

I operate them every moth or so. Not much more you can do other then spraying them with Corrosion-X. But the reality is they do get bad as these are pretty standard chromed brass seacocks. Getting proper bronze ones is close to impossible for the thread that is used on the outlet pipe. At least I was not able to source them. I can source bronze ones with tapered thread no problem, but not with a straight thread.
I had to replace the forward seacock as it was leaking via the shaft that operates the ball. It is a challenge to do. I ended up with a badly bruised upper arm for a week or so. Use Loctite 577 to seal the threads positioning the seacock in the proper rotational position. Before screwing it on with the Loctite, first do a dry-fit and count the number of rotations you need to make to fit it as far as it will go. 

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

 



 


 
Re: Color code of hull Amel 54

Alexander Hofmann
 

Hi Brent
This 'Gold Line' has been more or less a design study applied on the A54 for the future Amel boats, that I never would have bought. I rely on the 25 years experience of Amel with Santorin to A54, inorporating tons of experiences of cruising sailors. I have been one of the last üpotential new boat buyers of A54, but the new ones came surpringly fast. So I bought a 3 year old 'gold line'.
I like the design, it is a more mordern and 'younger' touch, but it is not more indeed as a Gold/sand line instead of red and a number of design and light features inside. Nothing concerning basic principes of Amel, saftey or performance of the ship. 
I did only use the term 'fist gold line' on SY Oceanica I Amel54#156 because Carina did use it for SY Ultimo Amel54#165.
Can only encourage you, Brent, to stay with Super Maramu or A54, if you want to go round our beautiful planet in a most safe way. The Amel way. 
The newer Amel boart are good, for sure, but made for a newer clientel which is relevant today on the boat markets, and not anmore the old Amel dinosaurs ... like me. :-)
All the best
Alexander
Re: Breaker Panel Label Back Lights

Gregory Shea
 

Arno, 
Is the constant current driver you linked to at Amazon suitable for us? It’s input voltage is 90-264 AC.

Greg Shea
Sharks 133 Cap des Iles 
Preveza

On Jul 29, 2020, at 12:46 PM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi David,

The problem is that the blue lights are switched via resistors. Blue LEDs are by their nature very sensitive to overvoltage. You should supply LEDs ideally with a current source instead of a voltage source. A current source supplies a certain current and regulates the voltage to get to that current.
Using resistors is (especially) for blue LEDs a poor choice as your supply voltage can be anything from 24 to 29 volt. For a blue LED this means that when you pick a resistor suitable for 29 Volt, the thing will hardly light up at 24 volt. Picking a resistor for 24 Volt will fry the LED at 29 volt. This is why these switch panel lights die.

What I've did is count the number of LEDs (pairs) you need, multiply this with the optimal current for each pair of LEDs. The pairs are set in series on the PCB so the optimal current for one LED is the same as for the pair. I'm not sure anymore but I think I got to 500 mA for the lot. Then I bought a converter similar to this one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Supplies-25-2W-15-50V-500mA/dp/B00HKJAW20/ref=sr_1_63?crid=3YQWWEX2UH14&dchild=1&keywords=constant+current+led+driver&qid=1596040540&sprefix=constant+current+%2Caps%2C266&sr=8-63
This is a constant current supply to feed all the leds (in pairs). This has been working excellent for some time now. Each individual LED is fed their optimal current. I can't find the LEDs anymore that I bought from Amazon at the time, but I bought them in small bulk similar to these https://www.amazon.com/100pcs-Ultra-Bright-Emitting-Diffused/dp/B01GE4WEGI/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=blue+LED+5mm&qid=1596041080&sr=8-8

Hope this helps,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

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