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Re: Furler motor to gearbox sm2000
There is no way that I know of to repair that shaft. I suggest that you contact SAV"at"Amel.fr
Send them a photo along with your Request For Quote.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Thanks Bill. I am interested to know if the motor can be repaired where the shaft has broken.?I'm still at a loss to know what happened to cause the shaft to break between the gearbox and motor?. I am thinking that I will replace the whole motor and gearbox with a new one. Thanks for your input Michael Nebo sm251 On Mon, 9 Nov 2020 at 2:29 am, Karen Smith via groups.io On the subject of Leroy Somer furling motors, we learned a bit about them this year--way more than we wanted to. For the first time since we owned Harmonie, the outhaul motor exhibited classic signs of needing new brushes: irregular operation. When I removed the brush holders, oddly, the brushes looked fine. Upon further disassembly the rest of the story was obvious. 25 years of accumulated carbon dust had obstructed the rotation of the armature to the point that the friction shattered the internal magnets. This motor was dead. Amel shipped us a new motor which fit and works just fine. Key point here: Whenever changing brushes do not just pull them out of the holder and drop new ones in, but clean out all the dust. Do not let it accumulate inside the motor! Do not assume that previous owners or mechanics did this correctly. Lesson learned, we completely disassembled the furling motor (which is identical), and cleaned the inside with vacuum and contact cleaner, dressed and polished the commutator, and tested resistances. All checked out well, so they should be good for the next 25 years... Notes on the new motor: the new Leroy-Somer motor carried the same part number, and was in all key external dimensions identical to the 25 year old original. It mounted and worked just fine. The internals are quite different, however. Key for maintenance is the fact that the brushes are different. Instead of two externally accessible brushes, the new design requires disassembly of the motor and replacement of the entire internal brush holder assembly because the four (not two!) brushes are welded in place to the holder. This emphasizes the importance of sending pictures of parts to Amel when ordering. If you simply order brushes for Leroy-Somer motor Part Number XXX_XXX you might not get what you need. Other important lessons that would have saved us this cost:
* Electric motors are (almost) forever if regularly cared for. The furling motors hadn't gotten to the top of our list for a professional rebuild.
* Take stuff apart. You learn a lot, and this problem could have been avoided if this motor had been on my "take it apart and put it back together for no reason" list.
Bill Kinney SM#160 HarmonieAnnapolis, MD
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Re: Cleaning fresh water tank on my SM2K
Philippe BELLOIR
I confirm, chlorine is not friendly with inox, specifically with 304 type. Some recommendations (temp, time and kind of inox) from dairy industry De : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] De la part de James Alton via groups.io
Envoyé : lundi 9 novembre 2020 14:21
À : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Objet : Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Cleaning fresh water tank on my SM2K Dave and All, I wanted to add a caution and mention that Chlorine can apparently cause corrosion issues with stainless. Since our stainless keel bolts, nuts and washers are located in the bottom of our water tanks, I am pretty leery about putting a bleach solution, especially a strong one in my water tank. The soft scrub that I used did contain bleach but was rinsed away as the tank was cleaned to reduce the exposure. If anyone with a more expert knowledge of the corrosion risks from using Chlorine in our tanks could comment, that would be helpful I think.
On Nov 9, 2020, at 7:46 AM, Philippe Belloir <pbelloir@...> wrote: Sorry it’s in french, the file give all the recommendations for cleaning and disinfecting containers and pipes Good morning all! I tried cleaning my fresh water tank using Bill’s alternate method (fill with bleach solution, let sit for 48 hours, drain, flush, etc.) and did not get the desired results. The attached photo shows what I am dealing with. Seems to be a couple varieties of mold that was not killed off by the bleach solution. Now that I am opening up all three access ports I want to clean it with something that works, but doesn’t poison my whole family 😳. What have some of you used for cleaning?<image001.jpg>
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross Detroit, Michigan <Reservoirs_et_canalisations_d_eau.pdf>
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Courtney Gorman
Hi does anyone have the dimensions of the board you use to secure the hatch on a 54? Mine has become warped and I need to make a new one but am not on the boat.
Cheers
Courtney
54 #101
Trippin
Brunswick
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Re: Cleaning fresh water tank on my SM2K
Matt & Michelle Day, SM#208 SV Talia
Clorine can damage stainless with long duration exposure. The duration depends on penetration of the passivation layer of the SS. Once the passivation layer is oxidized, the clorine will pit the SS and increase the risk of stress corrosion cracking.
At the concentration and duration that the group is discussing...we are talking about years to have a detrimental effect. If one is concerned, you can always re-passivate with citric acid and restart the clock.
Just my two cents.
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Re: Cleaning fresh water tank on my SM2K
Dave and All,
I wanted to add a caution and mention that Chlorine can apparently cause corrosion issues with stainless. Since our stainless keel bolts, nuts and washers are located in the bottom of our water tanks, I am pretty leery about putting a bleach solution, especially a strong one in my water tank. The soft scrub that I used did contain bleach but was rinsed away as the tank was cleaned to reduce the exposure. If anyone with a more expert knowledge of the corrosion risks from using Chlorine in our tanks could comment, that would be helpful I think.
James SV Sueno Maramu #220
On Nov 9, 2020, at 7:46 AM, Philippe Belloir < pbelloir@...> wrote:
Sorry it’s in french, the file give all the recommendations for cleaning and disinfecting containers and pipes Fair winds, Philippe Good morning all! I tried cleaning my fresh water tank using Bill’s alternate method (fill with bleach solution, let sit for 48 hours, drain, flush, etc.) and did not get the desired results. The attached photo shows what I am dealing with. Seems to be a couple varieties of mold that was not killed off by the bleach solution. Now that I am opening up all three access ports I want to clean it with something that works, but doesn’t poison my whole family 😳. What have some of you used for cleaning?<image001.jpg>
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross Detroit, Michigan
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Re: Cleaning fresh water tank on my SM2K
Philippe BELLOIR
Sorry it’s in french, the file give all the recommendations for cleaning and disinfecting containers and pipes Fair winds, Philippe De : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] De la part de David Kurtz via groups.io
Envoyé : vendredi 6 novembre 2020 16:07
À : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Objet : [AmelYachtOwners] Cleaning fresh water tank on my SM2K Good morning all! I tried cleaning my fresh water tank using Bill’s alternate method (fill with bleach solution, let sit for 48 hours, drain, flush, etc.) and did not get the desired results. The attached photo shows what I am dealing with. Seems to be a couple varieties of mold that was not killed off by the bleach solution. Now that I am opening up all three access ports I want to clean it with something that works, but doesn’t poison my whole family 😳. What have some of you used for cleaning?
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross Detroit, Michigan
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Re: Furler motor to gearbox sm2000
michael winand
Thanks Bill. I am interested to know if the motor can be repaired where the shaft has broken.?I'm still at a loss to know what happened to cause the shaft to break between the gearbox and motor? . I am thinking that I will replace the whole motor and gearbox with a new one. Thanks for your input
On Mon, 9 Nov 2020 at 2:29 am, Karen Smith via groups.io <karenharmonie@...> wrote: On the subject of Leroy Somer furling motors, we learned a bit about them this year--way more than we wanted to. For the first time since we owned Harmonie, the outhaul motor exhibited classic signs of needing new brushes: irregular operation. When I removed the brush holders, oddly, the brushes looked fine. Upon further disassembly the rest of the story was obvious. 25 years of accumulated carbon dust had obstructed the rotation of the armature to the point that the friction shattered the internal magnets. This motor was dead. Amel shipped us a new motor which fit and works just fine. Key point here: Whenever changing brushes do not just pull them out of the holder and drop new ones in, but clean out all the dust. Do not let it accumulate inside the motor! Do not assume that previous owners or mechanics did this correctly. Lesson learned, we completely disassembled the furling motor (which is identical), and cleaned the inside with vacuum and contact cleaner, dressed and polished the commutator, and tested resistances. All checked out well, so they should be good for the next 25 years... Notes on the new motor: the new Leroy-Somer motor carried the same part number, and was in all key external dimensions identical to the 25 year old original. It mounted and worked just fine. The internals are quite different, however. Key for maintenance is the fact that the brushes are different. Instead of two externally accessible brushes, the new design requires disassembly of the motor and replacement of the entire internal brush holder assembly because the four (not two!) brushes are welded in place to the holder. This emphasizes the importance of sending pictures of parts to Amel when ordering. If you simply order brushes for Leroy-Somer motor Part Number XXX_XXX you might not get what you need. Other important lessons that would have saved us this cost:
* Electric motors are (almost) forever if regularly cared for. The furling motors hadn't gotten to the top of our list for a professional rebuild.
* Take stuff apart. You learn a lot, and this problem could have been avoided if this motor had been on my "take it apart and put it back together for no reason" list.
Bill Kinney SM#160 HarmonieAnnapolis, MD
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Hi Rudi, yes, you need to decouple the lower unit from the motor. In my experience, this will be difficult if it has not been decoupled in a few years. It will very likely require some heavy-duty mechanical pullers. It is likely that you will need to replace the soft coupling when doing this job.
If it is stuck, like I believe you will find, you will likely need the help of a machine shop and mechanical pullers.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Sun, Nov 8, 2020 at 4:57 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote: Hi Doug, - your post is great and helpful information. Thank you!
I have a question for the Group; - how can I change the seals of the Sidepower-BT? Do I need to dismount the complete device to replace the Donut foam seals at the bottom?
Does anyone have a handbook how to proceed to change the seals including the lip-seals?
Thanks and best Ruedi Waldispühl WASABI A54-#55
I wanted to add to the information available for the bow thrusters for Amel 54’s. Mine wasn’t going up or down, and when it was down, it wasn’t going to starboard. If you are having difficulty with your thruster or just want to understand it better, these files might help. Doug Smith S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113 Deltaville, VA USA
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Rudolf Waldispuehl
Hi Doug, - your post is great and helpful information. Thank you!
I have a question for the Group; - how can I change the seals of the Sidepower-BT? Do I need to dismount the complete device to replace the Donut foam seals at the bottom?
Does anyone have a handbook how to proceed to change the seals including the lip-seals?
Thanks and best Ruedi Waldispühl WASABI A54-#55
I wanted to add to the information available for the bow thrusters for Amel 54’s. Mine wasn’t going up or down, and when it was down, it wasn’t going to starboard. If you are having difficulty with your thruster or just want to understand it better, these files might help. Doug Smith S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113 Deltaville, VA USA
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William, Here are a few samples that could be helpful. SAMPLE #1 
https://www.soundingsonline.com/voices/lifelines-checklist SAMPLE #2 1 Before leaving marina / moving vessel Anchor chain/line • Chain & line. Chafe ? Anchor winch • Does it work/ handle available ? Cockpit drain • Is it clogged ? Compass light • Check it at night Engine belts • Tight ? Worn ? Aligned ? Engines • Inspection for leaks etc Spares EPIRB • In date? Fire extinguishers • In date / Charged Flashlights • Do they work ? Spare batteries Handheld instruments • Batteries good? Do they work? Hatches • Do they close 100%. Handles, knobs etc Instruments • Turn them on to check ? Lifelines • Visual inspection for breaks etc Lights • Interior, exterior & Nav lights. Spare bulbs. Lockers • Make sure they lock shut. Man-over-board gear • Check quick release and condition Navigation lights • Easy to check at night Outboard engine • You have spares ? Does it work ? Ports • Do they close 100%. Handles, knobs etc Radios • Batteries ? Do they work? Licenses ? Safety equipment • Valid date ? Ready for use ? Stanchions • Are they solid ? Toilets • In good working order ? Holding tank OK ? Clean Propeller • Dive and check 2 Before long ocean passage Cockpit drain • Is it clogged ? Compass light • Check it at night Engine mounts • Visual inspection. Are they secure ? EPIRB • In date? Expiry dates • Ship papers/radio licences etc. Fire extinguishers • In date / charged Flashlights • Do they work ? Spare batteries. Gas bottles • Rusty? Are they secure? Change hose ? Odour? Gas locker • Is vent hole plugged? Handheld instruments • Batteries good ? Do they work? Lifelines • Visual inspection for breaks etc Liferaft • In date? Secure ? Accessible ? Lights • Interior, exterior & Nav lights. Spare bulbs. Man-over-board gear • Check quick release and condition Navigation lights • Easy to check at night Rigging • Visual inspection from top to bottom. Roller furlers • Rinse, grease, visual inspection. Free running ? Safety equipment • Valid date ? Ready for use ? Sails • Stitching. Chafe Ship's papers - Visas • Complete Stanchions • Are they solid ? Wind vane • Check it out before you need it 3 Daily Gas leak • Is there any odour near/under the stove/ pipes? 4 Weekly Bilges • Is there water/ fuel present ? Fuel leaks • Fuel in the bilge/ around the tanks ? Underwater leaks • If salt water in bilges check all fittings 5 Monthly Batteries • Acid level ? Clean terminals ? Deck leaks • Check chainplates/hatches/ports etc. ? Electrics • Run everything to make sure it works. Spare fuses. Engines • Inspection for leaks etc Spares Fire extinguishers • Positions, mounting, in date ? Flashlights • Do they work? Spare batteries ? Gas locker • Is vent hole plugged? Pumps • Do they work? Handles for manual pumps Toilets • In good working order ? Holding tank OK ? Seacock • Open / Close / Check movement SAMPLE #3 ON DECK - Anchors are shackled and seized to rode, and there is some means of securing them to bow-roller / deck-chocks (or below deck) once you leave confined waters
- Bitter end of anchor rode is secured to boat below decks
- Chain hawsepipe is as watertight as possible
- Deck storage cans for water and fuel are well-lashed
- Deck-mounted dinghy is tightly lashed
- Outboard motor is securely stowed on pushpit, in deck locker or elsewhere on deck where fuel cannot leak into boat
- Outboard fuel securely stowed on deck or in a sealed deck locker
- Rubber gaskets on hatches and opening ports are sound
- Hatches and ports shut and dogged, hatch-covers fitted as appropriate
- Deck-filler caps for fuel and water properly done-up and o-rings in good condition
- Cockpit drains are clear and draining freely
- Washboards are sound and handy (ready to fit when needed)
- Lifeline connectors are in good condition and properly done up
- Lifelines/stanchions are strong enough to support a heavy crewmember’s weight
- Stanchions are secured with pins or bolts in their bases; bases are bolted securely through deck (not screwed)
- Sharp knife stowed close to cockpit for emergency rope-cutting
SAILS - all sails inspected for rips, holes and broken stitching on seams
- batten ends securely fastened and in good condition
- sail slides in good condition (none worn, broken or sun-damaged)
- Roller headsails furl freely and top swivel is working properly
- Headsail hanks working freely
- Comprehensive sail repair kit on board, plus spare sailcloth and strong adhesive for major ‘instant’ repairs
REEFING - Roller reefing lubricated and handle stowed in appropriate place
- Slab reefing lines working and chafe-free
SPARS - No metal-fatigue, corrosion or chafe on load-bearing fittings such as mast crane and shroud tangs
- Spreaders are secure at inboard end and correctly angled
- Anti-chafe on spreader-ends to prevent damage to sails
- Wooden spars inspected for shakes or areas of softness around fittings
RIGGING - Bosun’s chair is in good condition and stowed somewhere accessible in case of emergency
- Rigging wire is sound: no broken strands, particularly around terminal fittings
- Shackle-pins (aloft & on deck) firmly done up and seized
- All shackles, terminals, turning blocks and mast fittings inspected for fractures, wear and pitting
- Sheaves turn freely
- Split-pins/rings in all rigging screws or turnbuckles (aloft & on deck)
- Exposed split-pins are taped to prevent snagging of sheets, sails or passing legs
- Rig is correctly tensioned: mast is in column and leaning neither to port or starboard
- Chainplates inspected for cracks or corrosion
- Hacksaw plus spare blades on board (for emergency rigging removal), and bull-dog clips for a jury rig
STEERING - Rudder has no excessive play
- Wheel steering: cables are properly tensioned, lubricated and protected from interference by gear stowed nearby. Inspect for broken strands.
- Tiller is sound (no splits or cracks) and firmly secured to rudder stock
- Self-steering is correctly set up
- Emergency tiller has been tested and crew know how to find, rig and use it
HEAVY WEATHER GEAR - Trysail and storm jib have been hoisted and checked for condition, sheeting angles, tack strops etc
- Rode, turning blocks and anti-chafe assembled and accessible for sea-anchor/drogue
- Storm boards accessible for windows and skylights
DOWN BELOW - Seacocks are working freely; skin fittings in good condition
- All through-hulls have tapered softwood bungs attached by lanyard in case of skin-fitting failure
- Flexible piping is secured to through-hull fittings with double hose-clamps. Hose clamps in good condition
- All siphon-breaks and breathers clear and working
- All movable items are stowed in lockers, fastened or lashed in place
- Fiddles are in ‘offshore’ position
- All drawers and locker doors have catches to prevent them flying open at sea
- Lee cloths/boards for bunks are strong and have adequate fastenings
ENGINE - Overheat alarm/light is working
- Drip tray under engine is oil-free
- Fuel tanks are full
- Fuel sumps and filters checked for water and diesel fungus
- Oil is clean and topped up
- You have enough spare oil on board for at least one oil-change
- Cooling water through-hull and strainer are clear of blockages and growth
- Drive belts inspected for condition and correct tension
- Stern gland adjusted and lubricated
ENGINE RUNNING CHECKS - Cooling water is pumping
- Throttle control and gear-shift are working correctly
- No excessive vibration
- Ammeter/voltmeter shows alternator is charging
POWER GENERATION - You have sufficient means of generating power to run navigation lights, house lights, instruments and any other appliances you wish to use at sea
- Batteries are holding a charge
- Batteries are securely contained in boxes clear of bilge-water
- Battery terminals are clean, free of corrosion, and cables securely connected
- Electrolyte level correct in battery cells (if not, top up with distilled water)
GALLEY - Galley-strap securely fastened, and strong enough to take a heavy crewmember’s weight
- Stove has adequate fiddles to retain pans/kettle in rough seas
- Gas bottles properly stowed; gas alarm working
- Gas bottles, valves, piping and stove checked for condition
- Sufficient food and stove-fuel on board for anticipated passage-time plus safety margin
- All dry stores in waterproof packaging or containers
- Rough weather provisions (snacks, instant meals etc) easily accessible
WATER - All water tanks topped-up and caps securely in place
- Tank plumbing checked for leaks
- Flexible water bladders protected against chafe
- Manual fresh water pump working
- Pressure water pump system turned OFF
- Toilets tested and free of leaks
FIRE - Extinguishers are in good condition and mounted in places they can be accessed easily during an engine or galley fire
- Engine fuel shut-off valve located and tested
- Bucket stowed in cockpit or lazarette for use in engine-room fire or emergency bailing situation
- Fire blanket is easily accessible (not buried in a locker)
LEAK MANAGEMENT - You have at least 2 bilge pumps on board, one of them manual
- Bilges and limber-holes are clear of debris (so will not block pumps)
- Manual bilge pump hose is fitted with a strainer
- Manual bilge pump is strongly mounted and working efficiently, with handle easy to access in emergency
- Electric bilge pump working (including float switch and panel light)
- Electric bilge pump switched to ‘AUTO’
- Bilges are dry (to allow monitoring of leaks underway)
- Rudder tube and gland checked for leaks
- All areas of bilge are accessible in case you need to inspect at sea
- Crew are aware that head valves must be closed immediately after use
NAVIGATION - GPS is working and securely mounted
- GPS waypoints double-checked for co-ordinate accuracy and datum discrepancies
- Compass is correctly adjusted, with deviation card on board
- Nothing metal or magnetic (tools, aerosol cans, radio, cameras) stowed near compass
- Log, depth-sounder etc correctly calibrated and barometer set
- Sufficient chart coverage of planned and contingency routes, as well as pilotage information
- Plotting tools (pencils, dividers, parallel rules/protractor etc)
- Hand-bearing compass and binoculars are secure but accessible
- Relevant tide tables on board
NIGHT SAILING - Compass light working
- Chart table light and galley light screened to avoid blinding watch-keepers
- Waterproof torches (with fresh batteries!) available for use on deck or in emergency
VISIBILITY - Mast-head lights are working
- Navigation lights are working (fore and aft); and positioned so they cannot be obscured by sails
- Back-up navigation lights (battery) in case of electrical system failure
- Powerful torch or portable spotlight within reach of cockpit (to draw attention to your boat when a collision is possible)
- Fog horn is working
- Adequate radar reflectors in place
RADIO - Radios functioning and signal checked
- all crew are familiar with distress procedure (and/or instructions are taped near radio)
- you have up-to-date frequencies and times for weather broadcasts
SAFETY - A jack-line of adequate breaking strain is securely rigged between cockpit and foredeck both sides (for clipping harness tether onto)
- Deck is sufficiently non-skid, particularly the coachroof, foredeck and around the mast
- You have sufficient hand-holds along the side-decks (if not, rig temporary ones using rope or webbing)
- EPIRB tested, and batteries are in date
- Liferaft is in date, large enough for the number of crew, and stowed securely in an accessible position
- Liferaft tie-downs checked for sun-damage and chafe
- Sufficient harnesses, tethers and lifejackets for the number of crew: all in good condition and located for easy access underway
- Danbuoy, lifebuoys, upside-down lights etc firmly mounted and ready for deployment
- A good supply of flares (the necessary number in date) stowed in waterproof containers
- Waterproof ‘grab kit’ stowed for easy accessibility, containing useful items for liferaft or dinghy survival at sea
- All crew are familiar with your Man Overboard procedure
CREW WELFARE - First aid kit: check adequate and waterproof
- Offshore medical kit is comprehensive, with drugs in date, and waterproof
- Do-it-yourself medical handbook onboard
- Seasick pills, sun-block and painkillers easily accessible
- Drinking water bottle handy to cockpit
- Sufficient warm clothing, bedding and foul weather gear for all crew
- Watch system and galley rota organised
SAMPLE #4 Chafe Detection - At least once a day we walk around the deck to check for chafe on the items listed: | - Anchor ties
- Pole guys and control lines
- Jib/Yankee /Staysail sheets
- Main halyard
- Mainsheet
- Reefing lines
- Dingy tiedown lines
- Jerry container tiedown lines
- Mainsail at spreaders if we are off the wind'
- Mainsail, Jib, Staysail tacks
- Roller furlers
- Main boom goosenecks
- Windvane control lines
- Mizzen halyard
- Mizzen sheet'
- Mizzen reefing lines
- Mizzen tack
- Mizzen gooseneck
| Assure Items are Secure | - Liferaft Hold downs
- Fenderboard
- Outboard motor
- MOB pole
- MOB horseshoe ring
- Lifesling
| Engine | - Check oil level
- Check voltage on all batteries
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From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of William O'Toole Sent: Friday, November 6, 2020 7:25 PM To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Silicone BT seals Excellent suggestion. Use flow to create the list. (You commercial big iron guys are the best!) William Sent from my iPhone Hello William, I flew heavies and they all use a flow form of checklist. I have never needed a written one but you could develop your own, specific to your vessel, broken down by areas of concern. Include BT pin removal before leaving the dock. Start the engine 10 minutes before leaving the dock if it is likely you’ll need to give it the beans… perhaps run the genset if you expect to use the BT or windlass. Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, NZ
On 7 Nov 2020, at 13:32, William O'Toole <william@...> wrote: Was a private pilot and very familiar with check lists. But…in my sailing I never crossed the concept of checklist from flying pre-flight over to leaving the dock. Humbling realization. Anybody have a checklist for going bow to stern and back again that they could share? --
William O'Toole
President
EcoNomics, Inc.
832 Camino Del Mar, Suite 1
Del Mar, California 92014
(858) 793-9200 Main Office
(858) 886-6657 San Juan Capistrano Office
(805) 331-9591 Cellular
Absolutely agree on releasing the pin at the dock or anchorage and decompressing the seals. On our boat, pulling the pin and flipping the down switch for as short a time as possible usually lowers it just enough to take the pressure off the seals. This leaves the pressure on the cable and the lowering motor mechanism but there is little force if the anchorage/dock is quiet. I do the same on the hard except i don't like to leave it on the lifting cable/motor mechanism for such a long period of time. In that case I use a split pin and rest it on that rather than the locking pin. Because the split pin (AKA cotter key) is a smaller diameter you can rest it on the thinner spllit pin and the seals are not compressed as much. This may not seem to be a significant distance but it really reduces the compression. I think it is that tight, tight compression that gives a good seal--but, again--leaving it that way for a long time causes a problem. Doing this seems to dramatically reduce the leak problem.
Regarding check lists, let me add that they way we prepare for departure is to start inside and go from bow to stern, then outside from bow to stern checking as we go. So our first item is the bow thruster, windlass/genoa breaker, inside windlass switch, front hatch, cabinet latches, head hatch, toilet emptied, front bilge check......etc...etc.....ending with a look at the rudder quadrant and rear hatch. We then do the exterior--bow to stern--starting with running lights, anchor, windlass....etc....ending with davits and stern light. We do the engine room last. For us, it is the easiest way to do a thorough check.
Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM429
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Re: Furler motor to gearbox sm2000
Alan Leslie
Thanks Bill,
There must be another motor in this series.
When I replaced a motor a little more than a year ago, the motor that came was the 4 brush type but it was a smaller diameter than the the old motor, which caused issues with mounting the cover.
When I visited La Rochelle last year, Maud showed me, and I bought, a cover mounting ring to suit this smaller diameter motor.
Was the motor you received from AMEL the same diameter as your original motor ? If so, then this is a different motor again to what I received.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
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Re: Rudder Stuffing Box Packing Material
Dan Carlson
If you are in the land of Amazon we ordered and used this little tool.
Best Regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe SM #387
Good day all,
I’m having difficulty removing the old packing material. I was successful getting the top ring out albeit with much difficulty, but I can’t seem to make much headway with the second ring and I imagine the last one will be even more difficult.
I am using a straight pick to loosen the adherence of the material around the perimeter of the rudder post, but the hook picks I am using to try to remove the material are bending and breaking.
I am trying to be careful so as not to damage the threads for the lock not and wondering if anyone has any tricks or suggestions.
Thanking respondents in advance for their time and wisdom.
All the best,
Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
On The Hard - Severn Yachting Center - Hayes, VA
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Re: Rudder Stuffing Box Packing Material
Paul,
I am assuming that you are pulling packing from a bronze stuffing box? If so, I normally use about a long #8 deck screw that will easily thread into the packing. Only run it maybe 1/2-2/3 of the way into the packing and keep the screw centered as best you can. Then using vice grips clamped to the head of the screw, pull with force parallel to the walls of the packing grove. It helps a lot if you pull from a position that is close to the butt end of a packing ring so if the packing seems reluctant, just try and different location.
Best,
James Alton SV Sueno Maramu #220
Good day all,
I’m having difficulty removing the old packing material. I was successful getting the top ring out albeit with much difficulty, but I can’t seem to make much headway with the second ring and I imagine the last one will be even more difficult.
I am using a straight pick to loosen the adherence of the material around the perimeter of the rudder post, but the hook picks I am using to try to remove the material are bending and breaking.
I am trying to be careful so as not to damage the threads for the lock not and wondering if anyone has any tricks or suggestions.
Thanking respondents in advance for their time and wisdom.
All the best,
Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
On The Hard - Severn Yachting Center - Hayes, VA
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Re: Rudder Stuffing Box Packing Material
Good day all,
I’m having difficulty removing the old packing material. I was successful getting the top ring out albeit with much difficulty, but I can’t seem to make much headway with the second ring and I imagine the last one will be even more difficult.
I am using a straight pick to loosen the adherence of the material around the perimeter of the rudder post, but the hook picks I am using to try to remove the material are bending and breaking.
I am trying to be careful so as not to damage the threads for the lock not and wondering if anyone has any tricks or suggestions.
Thanking respondents in advance for their time and wisdom.
All the best,
Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
On The Hard - Severn Yachting Center - Hayes, VA
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A pot of Gold at the end of the Rainbow
Barry Connor
Dear All,
When I was child growing up I was told that I could find a Pot of Gold at the end of a Rainbow.
Voila, I found it.
An “AMEL”.
Next to us in our anchorage.
Very Best
Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sainte-Anne anchorage Martinique
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Re: Furler motor to gearbox sm2000
On the subject of Leroy Somer furling motors, we learned a bit about them this year--way more than we wanted to. For the first time since we owned Harmonie, the outhaul motor exhibited classic signs of needing new brushes: irregular operation. When I removed the brush holders, oddly, the brushes looked fine. Upon further disassembly the rest of the story was obvious. 25 years of accumulated carbon dust had obstructed the rotation of the armature to the point that the friction shattered the internal magnets. This motor was dead. Amel shipped us a new motor which fit and works just fine. Key point here: Whenever changing brushes do not just pull them out of the holder and drop new ones in, but clean out all the dust. Do not let it accumulate inside the motor! Do not assume that previous owners or mechanics did this correctly. Lesson learned, we completely disassembled the furling motor (which is identical), and cleaned the inside with vacuum and contact cleaner, dressed and polished the commutator, and tested resistances. All checked out well, so they should be good for the next 25 years... Notes on the new motor: the new Leroy-Somer motor carried the same part number, and was in all key external dimensions identical to the 25 year old original. It mounted and worked just fine. The internals are quite different, however. Key for maintenance is the fact that the brushes are different. Instead of two externally accessible brushes, the new design requires disassembly of the motor and replacement of the entire internal brush holder assembly because the four (not two!) brushes are welded in place to the holder. This emphasizes the importance of sending pictures of parts to Amel when ordering. If you simply order brushes for Leroy-Somer motor Part Number XXX_XXX you might not get what you need. Other important lessons that would have saved us this cost:
* Electric motors are (almost) forever if regularly cared for. The furling motors hadn't gotten to the top of our list for a professional rebuild.
* Take stuff apart. You learn a lot, and this problem could have been avoided if this motor had been on my "take it apart and put it back together for no reason" list.
Bill Kinney SM#160 HarmonieAnnapolis, MD
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VICTOR MOLERO
Thank you so much, Bill. Victor
El dom., 8 nov. 2020 17:23, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> escribió: Victor,
From my book: 0.3 liters of 80/90 gear oil.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Hello all. I plan to change the oil and seals of the bow thruster in my SM. Can anyone tell me how much oil I need? Ant the type of oil? Thanks in advance. Victor Alendoy SM #314
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Victor,
From my book: 0.3 liters of 80/90 gear oil.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Hello all. I plan to change the oil and seals of the bow thruster in my SM. Can anyone tell me how much oil I need? Ant the type of oil? Thanks in advance. Victor Alendoy SM #314
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Re: Furler motor to gearbox sm2000
Aras Grinius
On my Sharki, I have a problem with my swivel (top of the mast). Turns out the swivel was locked up. It caused the tnages to crack and shear. More importantly it also made the motor work really hard to furl the sail.. I took it to a machine shop and I am going to have it duplicated ( it's 32 years old) since it was original equipment. Nonetheless, I would check to see if your jib furler might be part of the issue.,
Aras Shark #163 1988
Thanks Danny.I will drop the main to check the top swivel. When the furler stopped it was being unfurled. I used the winch handle to put the sail away and it was very easy to rotate the foil. The break looks like it's clean, ie not a partial break that has let go. But hard to tell. I normally keep the outhaul slack when furling in and out. Tight in a few spots to keep the sail neat when furling in. Not sure if this could be my fault?. The ratio of the gearbox, makes me feel that the shaft that has sheared is unusual? I was a little surprised by what I found, I was expecting to find that the leroy somer gearbox pinion gears were worn out in a section that stopped the worm from engaging. Regards Michael Nebo sm251 On Sun, 8 Nov 2020 at 6:33 pm, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS Friction causes over loading. So what are the posible friction points. Well there are the bearings in the gear box if they are not lubricated, a good starting point. But a much over looked one and more likely is the swivel at the topmof the sail. This gets encrusted with salt and can in the worst case not rotate at all. It is more likely to be less extreme than that but can cause your problem. It will also cause the bolt hole a the bottom of the foil extrusion to elongate and even fracture. Solution. Lower the main sail to access the swivel. Thoroughly flush it with pressure fresh water, allow itv to dry, then liberally apply spay can silicon. This should be part of regular maintenance. Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl On 08 November 2020 at 21:15 "michael winand via groups.io" <mfw642000=yahoo.com.au@groups.io> wrote:
Hi.I have encountered this problem with my main furler motor. I have sheared the shaft on the leroy somer motor where it enters the gearbox. Any suggestions on how I would be causing this problem?The gearbox is still working well. As I have it apart I will give it a full service. I would like to ask if anyone has been through this issue and what action is needed to fix this. I'm not sure if this is a design that allows the shaft to be replaced as a sacrificial item to prevent overloading?I have taken a photo of the issue. Apon removal it was still the original installation. The electrical brushes still have most of their length intact. Many thanks to the group Michael Nebo sm251
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Re: Furler motor to gearbox sm2000
michael winand
Thanks Danny. I will drop the main to check the top swivel. When the furler stopped it was being unfurled. I used the winch handle to put the sail away and it was very easy to rotate the foil. The break looks like it's clean, ie not a partial break that has let go. But hard to tell. I normally keep the outhaul slack when furling in and out. Tight in a few spots to keep the sail neat when furling in. Not sure if this could be my fault?. The ratio of the gearbox, makes me feel that the shaft that has sheared is unusual? I was a little surprised by what I found, I was expecting to find that the leroy somer gearbox pinion gears were worn out in a section that stopped the worm from engaging. Regards Michael Nebo sm251
On Sun, 8 Nov 2020 at 6:33 pm, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote: Friction causes over loading. So what are the posible friction points. Well there are the bearings in the gear box if they are not lubricated, a good starting point. But a much over looked one and more likely is the swivel at the topmof the sail. This gets encrusted with salt and can in the worst case not rotate at all. It is more likely to be less extreme than that but can cause your problem. It will also cause the bolt hole a the bottom of the foil extrusion to elongate and even fracture. Solution. Lower the main sail to access the swivel. Thoroughly flush it with pressure fresh water, allow itv to dry, then liberally apply spay can silicon. This should be part of regular maintenance. Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl On 08 November 2020 at 21:15 "michael winand via groups.io" <mfw642000@...> wrote:
Hi.I have encountered this problem with my main furler motor. I have sheared the shaft on the leroy somer motor where it enters the gearbox. Any suggestions on how I would be causing this problem?The gearbox is still working well. As I have it apart I will give it a full service. I would like to ask if anyone has been through this issue and what action is needed to fix this. I'm not sure if this is a design that allows the shaft to be replaced as a sacrificial item to prevent overloading?I have taken a photo of the issue. Apon removal it was still the original installation. The electrical brushes still have most of their length intact. Many thanks to the group Michael Nebo sm251
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