Date   

Re: replacing mirrors in bathroom

Ian Park
 

Mark, 
All four mirrors in our Santorin were held in place with screw fixed mirror mounts. 
I believe they were original fixtures, although I have replaced them. 
They have never been a problem and make changing the glass quite easy. It sounds a bit tricky releasing them if they are bonded direct, especially if the bulkhead is covered with foam backed lining. 

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


On 16 Jun 2020, at 01:07, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:



Hi Alex,

 

I hope you are doing well. It has been some time since we had a drink together.

 

About three years ago, I replaced the bathroom mirrors on Cream Puff. I also replaced the medicine cabinet mirrors. For the cabinets, I used Plexiglas mirrors and for the walls, glass was used. If you use glass, it is best to treat it with a product such as this to make it shatterproof: https://www.purlfrost.com/safety-security-window-film-stickers/glass-safety-window-film/. This can be added at the store or by the person who sells you the glass mirror.

 

Ours were not adhered to the wall. This makes me wonder if the previous owner had replaced them prior. It was a pretty easy project. To fasten the mirrors, I used the mounts already in place. Perhaps I should have also used double sided tape.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alexander Ramseyer
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2020 5:03 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] replacing mirrors in bathroom

 

The mirrors in the bathroom of my A54 back cabin don't look good anymore. Because I have some spare time due to the virus, I decided to replace them here in Trinidad. Does anyone have experience in removing the existing mirrors? They seem to be glued to the wall. The local guy who helps here suggests to put the new mirrors back with a thick tape that has glue on both sides plus 4 screws. Same here, does anyone have tips how to attach the new mirrors the best possible way?
Thanks for your advice,
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54#15


wiring schematic

Randall Walker
 

Hello All,
I have a general question. on the wiring schematic there is a reference to the inflator plug.
Can anyone tell me what it refers to?

curious,
Randall
A54 Gibraltar.


Re: YANMAR 4JH3-HTE Diesel Engine RPMs drop and then it quits

Ian Shepherd
 

Michael,

I had a fuel starvation problem with my Yanmar, but it was in starting, not whilst it was running, though I seldom use the engine other than for leaving and arriving at the dock. It was due to air in the engine fuel filter housing. I had changed the engine fuel filter, and whilst all looked well after bleeding, the problem was traced to the O-ring at the bottom of the filter housing. Having change the O-ring and made sure that it was properly seated, I have not had a problem since. You might want to check this area also as from what I read, your mechanic had taken the engine fuel filter off.

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader -Cyprus

On 14/06/2020 05:48, Michael & Robyn wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]
[Reason: fixed Razor to RACOR]

Update on Fuel issue.
We ran the engine for a total of 14 hours on our passage into the Chesapeake Bay and up north to Cambridge MD.
Three hours of these were at 2100 RPM.
NO further issues.

Thank you all for your helpful suggestions.

I have no proof but the most likely explanation is that the air was introduced when the mechanic took the RACOR filters out for visual inspection and put them back in stating that they are in excellent condition and do not need to be changed.
I assume our heavy rolling had pushed the air toward the engine.

To James point I have a suspicion that our fuel vacuum gauge may have failed too.
Given how little fuel our 100hp diesels consume and with a full tank I expect not much of a vacuum unless the filters would be really clogged badly.
I consider to replace the mechanical gauge with an electronic vacuum sensor and wire it up to an instrument at the engine control panel.
I still have to investigate why the sensor on the engine fuel filter doesn't show on the engine control panel.

Reading Kent's post I will definitely change the RACOR filters and the engine fuel filter.
My question now is how do you get the air out of the RACOR filters after changing the cartridge?
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
now in Cambridge MD USA


Re: replacing mirrors in bathroom

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Alex,

 

I hope you are doing well. It has been some time since we had a drink together.

 

About three years ago, I replaced the bathroom mirrors on Cream Puff. I also replaced the medicine cabinet mirrors. For the cabinets, I used Plexiglas mirrors and for the walls, glass was used. If you use glass, it is best to treat it with a product such as this to make it shatterproof: https://www.purlfrost.com/safety-security-window-film-stickers/glass-safety-window-film/. This can be added at the store or by the person who sells you the glass mirror.

 

Ours were not adhered to the wall. This makes me wonder if the previous owner had replaced them prior. It was a pretty easy project. To fasten the mirrors, I used the mounts already in place. Perhaps I should have also used double sided tape.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alexander Ramseyer
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2020 5:03 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] replacing mirrors in bathroom

 

The mirrors in the bathroom of my A54 back cabin don't look good anymore. Because I have some spare time due to the virus, I decided to replace them here in Trinidad. Does anyone have experience in removing the existing mirrors? They seem to be glued to the wall. The local guy who helps here suggests to put the new mirrors back with a thick tape that has glue on both sides plus 4 screws. Same here, does anyone have tips how to attach the new mirrors the best possible way?
Thanks for your advice,
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54#15


Re: replacing mirrors in bathroom

Matt Salatino
 

I’ve use double sided tape. Also used silicone, biput that can affect the mirror glazing.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Jun 15, 2020, at 5:03 PM, Alexander Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:

The mirrors in the bathroom of my A54 back cabin don't look good anymore. Because I have some spare time due to the virus, I decided to replace them here in Trinidad. Does anyone have experience in removing the existing mirrors? They seem to be glued to the wall. The local guy who helps here suggests to put the new mirrors back with a thick tape that has glue on both sides plus 4 screws. Same here, does anyone have tips how to attach the new mirrors the best possible way?
Thanks for your advice,
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54#15


Re: replacing mirrors in bathroom

ULRICH DANGELMEYER
 

Hello, Alexander,

The Amel mirrors become blind over time due to moisture ingress from the edges, which is the case with almost all Amels, I have seen.
I like suggest the following procedure...

1. Stick tape or self-adhesive foil over the entire surface of the mirror to protect it from splinters.
2. The original mirror is fixed with double-sided adhesive tape. So take a stable thin wire and start at one corner to peel the mirror off the tape. Because it is covered with foil it can not break completely and the splinters stick to it.
3. have the new mirror made in the highest quality and moisture resistant finish (bathroom quality)
4. attach the new mirror with double-sided adhesive tape (carpet version) or alternatively with spring clips. However, these are not as stable as glued on.
5. to be on the safe side, seal all edges with silicone (colourless or black, silver ...) after the installation is complete. Before doing so, mask the surface towards the edges with tape so that there is no smearing afterwards. The silicone should only cover the lateral edges and the mirror layer behind them. After the siliconisation is finished, remove the masking immediately before the silicone forms a skin! Otherwise you can remove it right away. logo.

Hope this helps you and you get the necessary support and quality on site.

Fair winds and stay safe. hope you get on soon. We want to go to Greece.

Best regards 

Ulrich Michael
"Soleil Bleu" / A54 #088



The mirrors in the bathroom of my A54 back cabin don't look good anymore. Because I have some spare time due to the virus, I decided to replace them here in Trinidad. Does anyone have experience in removing the existing mirrors? They seem to be glued to the wall. The local guy who helps here suggests to put the new mirrors back with a thick tape that has glue on both sides plus 4 screws. Same here, does anyone have tips how to attach the new mirrors the best possible way?
Thanks for your advice,
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54#15


replacing mirrors in bathroom

Alexander Ramseyer
 

The mirrors in the bathroom of my A54 back cabin don't look good anymore. Because I have some spare time due to the virus, I decided to replace them here in Trinidad. Does anyone have experience in removing the existing mirrors? They seem to be glued to the wall. The local guy who helps here suggests to put the new mirrors back with a thick tape that has glue on both sides plus 4 screws. Same here, does anyone have tips how to attach the new mirrors the best possible way?
Thanks for your advice,
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54#15


Re: YANMAR 4JH3-HTE - stop button does not work

Stefan and Anne Deerberg
 

Hi Philippe!

I had the same problem with my Yanmar. I got a lot of advices from different engine specialist in Portugal but in the end of the story it was the stop solenoid. After playing 170,-€ , I’d never got these trouble.

Good luck


Stefan
SV OYA
Sm 373, Martinique


Re: YANMAR 4JH3-HTE - stop button does not work

Robert Nilsen
 

We have same engine, and same problem from time to time. 
Tried to trace the wiring from panel to solenoid. Never found any fault, but works again for a year, or a month, after some wiggling of wiring, so guess its a contact-issue.

Best regards 
Robert Nilsen 


Re: YANMAR 4JH3-HTE - stop button does not work

Philippe Chatton
 

Hi,
I ran into a problem yesterday when I tried to stop the engine by pushing the stop button on the control panel. 
I understand that the stop solenoid might be the cause of the problem.
Could it be something else or shall I start first to change this part (= fuel shut off solenoid)?
Thanks in advanced for your views.
Philippe Chatton
Chameleon SM 445


Le lun. 15 juin 2020 à 07:34, Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...> a écrit :
To bleed the air out of the Racor after installing the new filter slowly open the Racor shut off valve allowing fuel to slowly gravity feed from the fuel tank into the filter bowl.  I let the filter sit for a few minutes to allow any air in the filter element to escape, bring the fuel level to the top of the bowl, and put the cap on filter.  I open the bleed screw at the Volvo and use the hand pump to insure that no air is in the system.  I have done this when when changing the Rcaor by itself and when changing the Racor and the filter on the Volvo,  No problems so far.
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: YANMAR 4JH3-HTE Diesel Engine RPMs drop and then it quits

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

To bleed the air out of the Racor after installing the new filter slowly open the Racor shut off valve allowing fuel to slowly gravity feed from the fuel tank into the filter bowl.  I let the filter sit for a few minutes to allow any air in the filter element to escape, bring the fuel level to the top of the bowl, and put the cap on filter.  I open the bleed screw at the Volvo and use the hand pump to insure that no air is in the system.  I have done this when when changing the Rcaor by itself and when changing the Racor and the filter on the Volvo,  No problems so far.
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


New file uploaded to main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io

main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main+notification@...>
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that the following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io group.

Uploaded By: Ian <parkianj@...>

Description:
Replacing taps in the heads in Santorin

Cheers,
The Groups.io Team


Re: Bow Thruster Siezed

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Ellen et al,

Congrats - super that you got it out. 

Your method and that in Ken's video, with the special tool he had made, both rely on just adding force (and/or shock) to pull the tube straight out (down). My experience with a few of these really stuck units is it is really helpful to add a rotational force, not just a straight downward pull.

Using a chain wrench around the motor base, with an extension pipe for added torque, let's you rotate the motor (just a bit at a time) on the lower tube. With lots of lubricant and lots of patience and going back and forth it will finally break free without the drama of slamming it up and down against wood blocks or the frustration of the tool sliding down the tube. You do it with the unit fully retracted such that when you torque the motor the rotational forces are taken up by the structure of the hull cavity and the bow thruster's bracket.

It's much like any pipe "stuck" in a socket - turn it back and forth to release it - don't just try to pull it straight out.

Another version of this I just did with good success was to just operate the bow thruster repeatedly to port and then to starboard in short bursts. (Of course, the retaining bolts were out and a hose clamp (Jubilee clip) was in place.) That torqued the motor back and forth with great force and the tube slipped out easily. (Granted, it was not "hard" stuck".)  It would likely work best in the water with the added torque resistance of the prop.

Lots of ways to skin a cat.

FWIW, Craig  


Re: YANMAR 4JH3-HTE Diesel Engine RPMs drop and then it quits

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Michael,
Just follow your RACOR manual (by the way, it is a RACOR brand filter, not a RAZOR filter) and that will tell you to unscrew the "T" bolt on top of the housing, remove the top, take out the old filter, insert the new filter, top off the bowl with clean diesel fuel, and then put the top back on. Very straightforward. Of course, having opened the fuel system you will need to bleed it before running the engine, which will also bleed any residual air from the RACOR filter housing. And Bob's your Uncle.
Cheers, Craig


Re: YANMAR 4JH3-HTE Diesel Engine RPMs drop and then it quits

Michael & Robyn
 
Edited

Update on Fuel issue.
We ran the engine for a total of 14 hours on our passage into the Chesapeake Bay and up north to Cambridge MD.
Three hours of these were at 2100 RPM.
NO further issues.

Thank you all for your helpful suggestions.

I have no proof but the most likely explanation is that the air was introduced when the mechanic took the RACOR filters out for visual inspection and put them back in stating that they are in excellent condition and do not need to be changed.
I assume our heavy rolling had pushed the air toward the engine.

To James point I have a suspicion that our fuel vacuum gauge may have failed too.
Given how little fuel our 100hp diesels consume and with a full tank I expect not much of a vacuum unless the filters would be really clogged badly.
I consider to replace the mechanical gauge with an electronic vacuum sensor and wire it up to an instrument at the engine control panel.
I still have to investigate why the sensor on the engine fuel filter doesn't show on the engine control panel.

Reading Kent's post I will definitely change the RACOR filters and the engine fuel filter.
My question now is how do you get the air out of the RACOR filters after changing the cartridge?
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
now in Cambridge MD USA


Re: Need help in Palma

Doug Smith
 

Thanks to all for their suggestions. Hoping to have this all resolved by the morning. Scheduled loading is occurring at 7:30 am. 

Thanks, Doug Smith

Amel 54-113, Aventura
Dugsmith98@...

On Jun 12, 2020, at 6:18 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stuart Hemingway writes:

 

I just wanted to say that a very ‘go to’ person in Palma is ‘Mike Stoffel + 34 650 734 083 ’.

 

He amongst other things arranged a lift out in slings for Beam IV striped down the bow thruster and relaunched in two hours….

 

He’d fix anything ,knows Amel’s and a great captain.

 

 

Stuart

--
 
Best,
 
CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: Need help in Palma

 

Stuart Hemingway writes:

 

I just wanted to say that a very ‘go to’ person in Palma is ‘Mike Stoffel + 34 650 734 083 ’.

 

He amongst other things arranged a lift out in slings for Beam IV striped down the bow thruster and relaunched in two hours….

 

He’d fix anything ,knows Amel’s and a great captain.

 

 

Stuart

--
 
Best,
 
CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: Bow Thruster Siezed

Ellen Cahill
 

Today was a big day, it came out! 

The boat was on a pier that dries out, so made it easier. I secured block of wood inside around the shaft. Then below the boat lifted up the thruster and pulled down. I had tape around the shaft and after about 20 goes it started to slide out. Bill noted that it appeared to have come out somewhat previously, I wasn't sure about this as I hadn't marked it properly from the get go. But I think it was likely a combination of  multiple attempts and lots of lubricant. 

Time to take it apart, empowered with Kens video. Thanks everyone!

Ellen
Saol Nua
Amel Mango #45


Re: air conditioning maramu

Craig Briggs
 
Edited

Hi Eric,
Lots of ways to skin a cat, of course. FWIW, on our SN, we put a single 18K BTU compressor in the engine room that serves both a 12K evaporator under the salon forward dining seat and a 6K evaporator on the shelf over the fuel tank in the companionway going aft. I ducted the 12K unit through the forward head wall then up inside the shelf area and back through a 6"X12" register in the bulkhead into the main salon. It also T's and goes to the forward stateroom and head. The 6K unit goes to the aft stateroom and T's forward to the main salon. That register can be closed to get a full 6K into the aft stateroom (plenty) or opened to share the cooling into the main salon near the nav station. Works well in Florida with only the forward stateroom being a bit wussy, although leaving the door open and a supplement fan solves that. All equipment is by Northern Lights. Also has reverse cycle for heat with an "away" function to keep the humidity down when not aboard.
Cheers, Craig


Re: Mizzen furler

Patrick McAneny
 

Danny, Yes I guess the economy of NZ. as some other countries and islands are more dependent on foreign tourism than we are here. Even domestic travel here has all but stopped creating economic losses in the billions for the tourism industries. Despite loses of about 900 people a day ,we are opening up the economy ,as an economic collapse would eventually occur, if we did not ,recovery could take decades and the effects would be world wide. Lets all pray that a vaccine is in the near future ,that will allow the world to recover and live again. You don't miss what you've got ,til its gone. An hour ago our daughter Hollie arrived with our two granddaughters that we have not seen for four months . Hollie is a nurse anesthetist and has been working with Covid 19 patients ,so we have been staying apart.
Hoping you best',
Pat
SM Shenanigans



-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Thu, Jun 11, 2020 3:38 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Hi Pat, yes as John says there are no known active infections. The advantage of a small spread population, being in the Southern Ocean 1200 miles from the nearest neighbour. Unlike you we have no massive cities with crowded subways etc. However now we have a problem in that our population have not built up immunity and in a world where the virus is endemic I am not sure how we will be able to allow people in and out. Tourism is our biggest industry and it is in big trouble. My son is a travel agent and he is struggling..Thousands upon thousands of people are involved and soon the government wage assistance will run out and that is all that is keeping the "patient on life support"
The government are allowing selected entry. eg they are allowing film makers in but preventing any marine industry access. Americas cup teams included. NZ has a big marine servicing industry ranging from large fishing vessels, to super yachts to the hundreds of cruisers who come here every summer to escape the Pacific hurricane season. If access is not allowed soon that industry is in big trouble. An OECD report out today predicts our economy will be hit harder than many others. But that is a "report" and a "projection" and may or may not be accurate. But the two industries I mention could be wiped out if they cant start functioning soon, and there are others.  I think it will prove that to stop an economy is easier by far than reviving it.
Stay safe
Danny
On 11 June 2020 at 23:04 "Patrick McAneny via groups.io" <sailw32@...> wrote:

John, Glad what I heard was true ,that you are virus free. The economic cost here in the US. is going to be felt for decades as well. I passed thru Wellington probably 30 years ago on my way to the South Island , which is still the most beautiful place on earth I have ever been ,hope to return one day soon
Thanks ,
Pat
SM Shenanigans .


-----Original Message-----
From: JOHN HAYES <johnhayes862@...>
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Sent: Thu, Jun 11, 2020 2:16 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Been virus free for 20 days

We are lucky down here in the roaring 40s to be protected by a large moat.  But there is a growing economic price we are all going to pay

Stay well all

John Hayes
Nga Waka sn41 

Wellington.  (500 miles south of Danny!)

 

On 11/06/2020, at 8:32 AM, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:

Danny, You can understand my confusion,knowing your athletic prowess ,it was easy for me to envision you with a hose between your teeth climbing to the top of the mast .Don't know if it is true,but just heard that NZ. is virus free, hope its true ,if not....
Stay Safe,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Wed, Jun 10, 2020 3:38 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Hi Pat, yes I did refer to flushing a swivel at the top but meant the one that is at the top when the sail is hoisted. I don't recall the exact wording of my post but it should have included dropping the sail to get access. 
Kind Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 10 June 2020 at 22:57 "Patrick McAneny via groups.io" <sailw32@...> wrote:

Danny, I thought you once before suggested in a previous post to flush a swivel at the top of the mast, and I assumed there must be a swivel at the very top of the mast to keep the foil centered ,but maybe not. Ok then I will flush it well and see if that does the trick. Sorry I misunderstood what you were referring to ,first time around. 
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Jun 9, 2020 9:33 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Yes Pat  that is the one I was referring to
Regards
Danny
On 10 June 2020 at 08:28 "Patrick McAneny via groups.io" <sailw32@...> wrote:

Danny , Its not the top swivel that is the problem, its is the swivel/car which pulls up the sail that is having a problem. I suppose I will first flush it out well before I take it apart and see if that helps. 
Thanks,
Pat
SM #123


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Jun 9, 2020 4:17 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Hi Pat,
before you start any disassembly try this. Lower the sail and flush the swivel with copious quantities of fresh water. Despite the fact it is at the top of the mast it will have salt in it and this is a common cause of the symptoms you have. As to the manual mizzen furler gear box mine was getting so tight I feared causing damage while turning the winch handle.. I took the fiber collar off the input shaft and squirted fresh water in vigorously. I then did the same to the gearbox top and bottom.  I left the gearbox and the swivel to dry out on a sunny day and then sprayed both with silicon. Now the mizzen launches with a tug on the out haul line. No turning of the gearbox by hand the sail goes out brrrrrrrrt. The swivels on the main and head sail need the same treatment. Because they are operated electrically we are not so aware of the friction. Breakers popping during operation can be a symptom, as is the foil on the mainsail fracturing. Likewise bending of the horns on the headsail furler although there are other causes for that as well.
Kind Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 10 June 2020 at 00:19 "Patrick McAneny via groups.io" <sailw32@...> wrote:

I have a problem with the mizzen furler not able to rotate 360 degrees. I have determined that the problem is within the swivel part of the furler. It will rotate freely ,but then binds up and needs to be forced to be able to rotate. I need to take it off and separate the two parts , I assume the bearings have degraded . When I slide it down and off the foil will ball bearings fall out ? How are the parts separated ? Has anyone done this before. I will also try to disassemble the gearbox to clean and grease it while it is off.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans