Date   

Re: Bow thruster tube anomaly

 

Davi,

Sounds good on the cofferdam. Yes, an experienced fiberglass repair person would be what I would do.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Feb 7, 2021 at 9:37 AM Davi Rozgonyi <davi.rozgonyi@...> wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]

Bill, I got that tool cranked on as tight as humanly possible without resorting to a breaker bar right at the very top of tube, it seems to be holding, no sandpaper (it fits tighter). I'm going to keep this up for a few days.

If no luck, I was considering removing the tool, and building a cofferdam directly under the cast iron using plastic wrap, zip ties, duct tape, whatever wax sealant etc. Then I can empty a half can of penetrant and it will make a pool of the stuff an inch above the joint, leaving that for a few days and trying the tool again. Like putting a bag of vinegar on a shower head. Sound good?

Edit, I would put back the Allen bolts maybe to prevent the fluid from dropping into the shaft for some period as well... 

I would tremendously appreciate any advice though on if a good fibreglass guy could repair the gouge in the tube later. It is not all the way through thank goodness. Is that the way to repair it?


Re: Hardtop for Amel 54

Scott SV Tengah
 

Thanks Stefan. Do you have the ability to record the total solar amp-hours or kilowatt-hours per day? Your peak output is encouraging but I am wondering how much power it produces in total through the course of a day, which would take into account the shading. Even better would be an average over a month or so.


On Sun, Feb 7, 2021 at 3:14 PM Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:
Hello Scott,
 
thanks for the flowers.
 
It took us (my poor wife and me) about 2.5 weeks to finish the surfaces of both roof sections. Now I highly recommend giving this to a professional handyman. It becomes much more economical and the result is more perfect.
For the installation of the plexiglass parts, seals, solar etc. we needed about 1 week.
All full time, so don't ask about our own labor costs ;-).
 
All external services / work / materials cost around 6 500 EUR - provided you already have the winter enclosure.
 
"Packing and selling" (I assume you mean "Make it in a serie") does not seem to be an option, or at least very difficult, as the cockpit dimensions of the respective boat have to be taken into account (e.g. for the position of the plywood inserts for connection on the bimini frame).
 
Now to your questions ;-):
1) Depending on the shadows of the masts and main boom (shrouds don't seem to be a problem) I've seen (without shading) up to 700W in Martinique in May 2020 and now up to 580W in the Bahamas. With shading, of course, significantly less.
2) No mold on the hardtop, but (of course some) dirt under the panels - despite spacers (to get air under the flexible panels and to flush rainwater).

Stefan
A54 # 119 Lady Charlyette, currently Bahamas


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Bow thruster tube anomaly

Davi Rozgonyi
 
Edited

Bill, I got that tool cranked on as tight as humanly possible without resorting to a breaker bar right at the very top of tube, it seems to be holding, no sandpaper (it fits tighter). I'm going to keep this up for a few days.

If no luck, I was considering removing the tool, and building a cofferdam directly under the cast iron using plastic wrap, zip ties, duct tape, whatever wax sealant etc. Then I can empty a half can of penetrant and it will make a pool of the stuff an inch above the joint, leaving that for a few days and trying the tool again. Like putting a bag of vinegar on a shower head. Sound good?

Edit, I would put back the Allen bolts maybe to prevent the fluid from dropping into the shaft for some period as well... 

I would tremendously appreciate any advice though on if a good fibreglass guy could repair the gouge in the tube later. It is not all the way through thank goodness. Is that the way to repair it?


Re: Volvo D3 110 Sea Water Pump - Cover seal

 

I think Dow MolyKote will solve the problem. Use it on all O rings

image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Feb 7, 2021 at 7:50 AM Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:
Dear Amelians,

only a little problem and a simple question:
 
What is the trick to make the seawater pump cover waterproof?
 
I serviced the o-ring, used a new one, greased the contact surfaces, checked and cleaned the cover surface, etc.
It continues to drip (a bit, but annoying).

Thx a lot for your appreciated hints.

Stefan
A54 #119 Lady Charlyette, currently Bahamas


Re: Bow thruster tube anomaly

 

Davi,

I know you probably know this, but a few owners applied force using the tool, and 3 days later the tube broke free. 
Tool Method (I recommend):
• Purchase the tool from Amel.
• Remove 4 Allen Head bolts spray penetrating fluid inside holes and the joint. Let it sit 24 hours.
• Clamp the TOOL near the motor base with the 4 bolts facing downward around the tube, using some medium sandpaper between the too and the tube, increasing friction between the tool and tube.
Tighten each bolt ½ turn against the motor base (if this tightening is not done evenly, you will jam the tube into the motor base)
• Repeat above until it breaks free. It may take 2-3 days with constant pressure with the tightened 4 blots for it to break free

It sounds as though the lubricant you used at the joint has lubricated the shaft and tool. Try to use something to remove the lubricant from the shaft and tool, apply force using the tool, and vibration periodically using a drill-hammer (with a piece of steel rod rather than a drill bit) and checking for tightness of the tool. Assuming days to separation.

Patience.

A hammer drill, also known as a percussion drill or impact drill, is a power tool used chiefly for drilling in hard materials. ... The percussive mechanism provides a rapid succession of short hammer thrusts.
image.png

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Feb 7, 2021 at 8:01 AM Davi Rozgonyi <davi.rozgonyi@...> wrote:
Hey there, if the shaft was heated that much and didn't separate, what was the solution?

I'm back to using the Amel tool for now. The sandpaper ring does not prevent it from slipping down despite cleaning of the shaft and tool. Other problem is any penetrant I squirt in drips straight out onto the tool. How much torque can I apply to the tool/tube? After damaging it I am leery of putting a pipe on the socket, but I have the tool as tight on as a typical Spanner can torque, held by a 180 lb person in anger.

Any thoughts on this: I have a hydraulic bottle jack. If I put some wood on the floor of the bowthruster locker (on top of the glass cofferdam box in which the foot retracts) and Jack gently up straight on the iron ring on the motor, I won't be touching the fibre shaft at all. Surely this could bust it loose more gently than banging the motor up and down, no? Or use this method to apply a bit more force than the slipping tool and then tap tap tap on the collar or shaft? 


Re: Bow thruster tube anomaly

Trevor Lusty
 

The answer was even more heat and hammering, it wasn't pretty.  The only good thing that comes out of this is, you will never let it happen again! Your jack idea I think, is going to put massive loading on the polyester which it was never designed for and I am guessing that you won't get an even pressure around the ring which may push the entire assembly out of column.  So has it the potential to do more harm than good?  Is there any way to develop Craig's idea, because I seem to remember from before, this has been solved by getting some lateral pressure onto the shaft . Unfortunately the tube is a rea PIA right now and stops you getting at the splines on the shaft.
T


Re: Propeller recommendation

Martin Birkhoff
 

Hi Alex,
before we got our A54 we sailed a Reinke Super 11. This is an aluminium bilge keel design of German origin, overall length 39 feet. It was fitted with an Daimler-Benz OM 616 with 54 hp and a fix 3-bladed prop of 19" adjusted to this engine power. The boat had an extreme tendency to weather helm in gusts. Sailing performance was poor - we never set sails with less than 10 knots of wind. Standard speed on engine had been some 6 knots at 2200 rpm. 
After some research we changed to an Autoprop of 19" specified for our engine. Result: The boat was able to sail in light wind conditions down to 5-6 knots of wind properly, even downwind, sailing speed had increased 1 to 1.5 knots depending on sea conditions, the tendency of weather helming disappeared nearly, speed under engine increased to 6.5 kn at 2.000 rpm. Fuel consumption was reduced. Power going forward/backward was more or less identic. The side shift of the propeller going backwards was more or less similar to the fix-bladed.
Disadvantages: the Autoprop needs a certain amount of time to adjust its blades (or a strong push with the throttle) by manouvering. With the fix-blade prop the boat started immidiately when clutched in. With Autoprop it needed some seconds or a strong push as mentioned.
We sailed the Autoprop from 2000 to 2008 and later from 2010 until we sold the boat in 2016. Always pleased. 
Except once: In very rough but short seas in the LeMaire Strait we tried "to escape" to a small bay. We run the engine but steering against this seas we had no effect. First we thought to have lost the prop. So we decided to sail out of the channel to open waters and turned, figuring out the prop was still on the shaft and pushing. It must have been a rare combination of wave shape and intensity, boat movements, position of the prop on our boat etc. which caused this effect. We believe there never was sufficient time for the blades to adjust properly because of extreme fast changing conditions at the prop. We never had this again in all conditions we had to face later on, and we never heard a similar story from other owners of this kind of prop. 
After damaging the prop by hitting lots of wooden trunks in South American rivers we got a 4-blade SPW prop of 19". We chosed 4 blades to get more or less the same propulsion compared to the former Autoprop. The blades of this prop are connected and are turning their narrow sides to the bow while sailing. It´s not a foldable prop. 4 blades were needed because of the different design (blades are absolut symmetric). It was adjusted according to the needs of engine of course by limiting the blades rotation to to adjustable angles (forward and backward). 
Result: More or less similar than the Autoprop, but starting faster to move the boat on one hand, on the other hand less effective going backwards because the prop pitch was limited to a certain angle. We sailed these prop for some 15 month.
Our A54 is fitted with an Autoprop. It is performing absolut reliable. We cannot imagine to face the problem mentioned above with an Amel due to the props position in deep water behind the keel. 

Our conclusions outcoming of our experiences and experiences of friends is
- there is no good prop which is a cheap prop as long you avoid a fix-bladed one
- all props with moving parts need a certain specific amount of maintenance
- if you vote for a fixed-blade prop you have to know that your sailing speed will decrease and a weather helming can show up.     

Martin
Mago del Sur - A54#040

 


Re: Hardtop for Amel 54

Stefan Schaufert
 

Hello Scott,
 
thanks for the flowers.
 
It took us (my poor wife and me) about 2.5 weeks to finish the surfaces of both roof sections. Now I highly recommend giving this to a professional handyman. It becomes much more economical and the result is more perfect.
For the installation of the plexiglass parts, seals, solar etc. we needed about 1 week.
All full time, so don't ask about our own labor costs ;-).
 
All external services / work / materials cost around 6 500 EUR - provided you already have the winter enclosure.
 
"Packing and selling" (I assume you mean "Make it in a serie") does not seem to be an option, or at least very difficult, as the cockpit dimensions of the respective boat have to be taken into account (e.g. for the position of the plywood inserts for connection on the bimini frame).
 
Now to your questions ;-):
1) Depending on the shadows of the masts and main boom (shrouds don't seem to be a problem) I've seen (without shading) up to 700W in Martinique in May 2020 and now up to 580W in the Bahamas. With shading, of course, significantly less.
2) No mold on the hardtop, but (of course some) dirt under the panels - despite spacers (to get air under the flexible panels and to flush rainwater).

Stefan
A54 # 119 Lady Charlyette, currently Bahamas


Re: Bow thruster tube anomaly

Davi Rozgonyi
 

Hey there, if the shaft was heated that much and didn't separate, what was the solution?

I'm back to using the Amel tool for now. The sandpaper ring does not prevent it from slipping down despite cleaning of the shaft and tool. Other problem is any penetrant I squirt in drips straight out onto the tool. How much torque can I apply to the tool/tube? After damaging it I am leery of putting a pipe on the socket, but I have the tool as tight on as a typical Spanner can torque, held by a 180 lb person in anger.

Any thoughts on this: I have a hydraulic bottle jack. If I put some wood on the floor of the bowthruster locker (on top of the glass cofferdam box in which the foot retracts) and Jack gently up straight on the iron ring on the motor, I won't be touching the fibre shaft at all. Surely this could bust it loose more gently than banging the motor up and down, no? Or use this method to apply a bit more force than the slipping tool and then tap tap tap on the collar or shaft? 


Volvo D3 110 Sea Water Pump - Cover seal

Stefan Schaufert
 

Dear Amelians,

only a little problem and a simple question:
 
What is the trick to make the seawater pump cover waterproof?
 
I serviced the o-ring, used a new one, greased the contact surfaces, checked and cleaned the cover surface, etc.
It continues to drip (a bit, but annoying).

Thx a lot for your appreciated hints.

Stefan
A54 #119 Lady Charlyette, currently Bahamas


Re: Bow thruster tube anomaly

Craig Briggs
 

Davi,
You say the chain wrench is not working. If that means you have pulled on it as hard as you can and it doesn't budge the motor, you may want to try using an "old man" - a long pipe over the chain wrench handle to increase your leverage. About a meter long is good. Work it back and forth (clockwise and counterclockwise) applying increasing force each cycle (it may seem you'll break something, but likely not). After a few cycles you'll get just a fraction of movement - back off and go the other way - repeat until loose.
Good luck with it.
Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Hardtop for Amel 54

Alain Durante
 

Scott,

 

I made a cockpit cover 2 years ago stainless + plexiglass + canvas with solar panels on top. I have 1.85 under the roof.

 

Very convenient with lights on top and underneath. Can sail in winter and getting the heat from the inside.

 

Cordialement,

 

Alain

 

2006 A54 #21

 

De : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> De la part de Scott SV Tengah via groups.io
Envoyé : dimanche 7 février 2021 09:20
À : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Objet : Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Hardtop for Amel 54

 

Stefan,

That design is the best I've seen. How long did it take you to finish it? And total cost? Have you ever considered packaging and selling it? I'm sure more than one 54 owner would be keen to buy it.

A few questions:

1) Any idea how many amp hours or kWh per day your 680w of Sunpower panels produce?
2) Do you get any mold on the top of the hardtop? Just thinking if the water doesn't drain perfectly, it could result in some mold buildup. But I am sure that's solvable pretty easily if it does happen.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Bow thruster tube anomaly

Trevor Lusty
 

Davi,
       Two hammers of equal weight tapped simultaneously on either side of a seized shaft will often free it. The problem here is the space is so restricted it is almost impossible to get any leverage or heat where you need it.
If you keep lifting and dropping it you will wind up damaging the hull.
The Amel splitter has to be your next best option with as much PB Blaster, diesel and paraffin, white vinegar and anything thing else you can think of poured on to it.
If that doesn't work, you can remove the entire assembly from inside the boat when you are hauled out. Trust me, that is definitely your final option.
I have seen one of those shafts heated to white hot  on a bench and it still wouldn't come apart.
Sometimes there is an extra grub screw (i.e. five instead of four) glassed into the bearing housing on the foot of the shaft, this is not relevant to your current problem, but might come into play later on when you get that far.
Good luck.
Trevor Lusty
Ireland


Re: Hardtop for Amel 54

Scott SV Tengah
 

Stefan,

That design is the best I've seen. How long did it take you to finish it? And total cost? Have you ever considered packaging and selling it? I'm sure more than one 54 owner would be keen to buy it.

A few questions:

1) Any idea how many amp hours or kWh per day your 680w of Sunpower panels produce?
2) Do you get any mold on the top of the hardtop? Just thinking if the water doesn't drain perfectly, it could result in some mold buildup. But I am sure that's solvable pretty easily if it does happen.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Bow thruster tube anomaly

Matti Lohikoski
 

Hi Davi, in some similar land problems duct tape helps the grip. Putting tension on the parts and e.g. drill hammer (no drill but say 13mm peace of rod) you can "drill" the steel part and make it vibrate. Has been helping in some stuck parts you cannot really heat.

Matti Lohikoski SM#398



Re: How much Solar?

Scott SV Tengah
 

As Ken mentions, I think it's important that everyone thoroughly understands how their BMS works on THEIR SYSTEM. This is one of the reasons why I think lithium is challenging: most electricians simply don't understand all the implications well enough. They've been playing with lead too long and they haven't had to think through the implications of this new technology (that happens to be almost 30 years old, haha).

For our Victron BMS, an overvoltage/overtemp condition does not disconnect the batteries. What Victron does is turn off charging. Our Victron chargers (AC-based and solar) receive a signal to stop charging and immediately do so. On our A54, the Amel-spec Mastervolt alternator was an issue at first. We needed a way to convert the BMS's "stop charging" signal to tell the Mastervolt to cease charging, safely. Luckily Mastervolt has a reg-on wire that safely tells the alternator to cease charging without causing any damage to the alternator. I detailed it on another post - I think it's on my original thread on my experience living with lithium.

On the 54, that reg-on wire (as named in MV literature) literally turns the external charge regulator off. And it does it in a way that is safe - in fact, the instructions say you can wire a switch into that circuit in order to turn off the alternator in the event you want more power out of your engine. That means having the BMS disconnect it should be similarly safe.

Note this is all for my Victron smart lithium battery, Victron BMS, Victron Solar/AC-charger, Mastervolt alternator (with Alpha Pro 2 or greater alternator regulator) system. This Sterling device may be useful if your system doesn't operate the same way mine does, I cannot say for sure. In my opinion: don't trust your electrician to figure it out, understand how the system works yourself. 

On Sat, Feb 6, 2021 at 7:30 PM Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...> wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]

Regarding spike back protection, I think it best to explain why.....  Everyone should understand the protection parameters of their battery's BMS.  The BMS is there to protect your batteries, from High Voltage, Low Voltage, Over Current, Low Temperature, and High Temperature.  The BMS protections vary greatly between brands , but that should do it for most.  So, lets say your Alternator is charging at 28.4V,  that's great if the BMS's High Voltage shut of is at 29.2V.  But, what if you have a spike in the alternator's charging voltage (above 29.2V), or some type of failure in the battery's BMS...... your BMS will turn the battery off, and then your Alternator is instantaneously looking into an open circuit.  AND, You just smoked your Alternator.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03SQMDnY6O0

This device should help anytime BMS shuts down your batteries, including your Victron Charger would feel less stress when the BMS does it's job.

In theory the $99 device Bill mentioned should save the alternator in this scenario.  I didn't think about this, but this device makes a lot of sense.  

Thanks Bill!

Ken Powers
Aquarius
SM2K262


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

Scott SV Tengah
 

Mark and Mark,

On our A54 #69, the old RG58 was in fact hard wired to the Banten antenna. The easy solution if you want to do it CP's suggested method is to just cut the old rg58 at the antennaand tape the new cable to the old. Of course once you cut it, you're committed, so you better hope that the tape doesn't come apart! As an aside, I believe Amel chose a one piece antenna/cable combo to keep the mast/riggingisolated from the bonding system as they used to do pre-2009. Once you install a different antenna and put a PL-259 on it (self amalgamating tape and electrical tape it well after installation!), the PL-259 "outer part", via the ground foil, will connect to the case of the VHF and the case of the VHF is bonded. I am fine with that because Amel has decided to do that on all post-2009 Amels. In our case, this change caused the Masse-neg light to glow brightly since we had a neg leak via the bow nav lights that I had previously been unaware of. Just be aware that after going with PL-259 terminated wires, your rigging will be connected to bonding.

For the main, for our VHF cable replacement a bit over a year ago, we did it the way that CP suggested. We used RG8x taped to the old RG58 and we could pull it through, albeit with much effort. Later we tried to use the mousing line to pull through a Cat7 ethernet cable for our masthead mounted wifi antenna. That was not successful and we had to remove the foam bits, which made it 10x easier. 

Mark-Cara: we tried to run LMR400 and it's a very very tight fit and we probably damaged the wire while attempting it; that said, our mast is not horizontal. Also keep in mind that there's RG58 from the base of the mast to the nav station. If you don't replace all of it, you'll have low-loss down the mast and then silly-small RG58 from the mast ot the vhf. Same with our AIS antenna on the mizzen.

When we replaced the mizzen AIS cabling, the same method did not work. The foam bits had rotated and also I think the in-mast conduit is a bit smaller, so no amount of pulling could get the taped combination old/new cable through. You have to remove the pieces of foam.

As Oliver suggested, put the line with the foam bits back. We tried to go without but you could definitely hear the cables banging around. If you break the foam bits, they're just the sealing gaskets for the Goiot portlights. Pretty easy to find online.

Hope this helps.

On Sun, Feb 7, 2021 at 4:57 AM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:
Mark,

In my case, there is no way to attach a new cable to the old cable at the top of the mast.  At least not that is apparent to me.  The original RG58 Cable seems to be "hardwired" to the Banten AIS antenna at the top of the mizzen mast.  It may be different on Cream Puff. 

I can, however, attach a new cable at the base of the mast and pull a new cable up the mast to the top of the mast.  

Fortunately, I have the luxury of having my mast horizontal and 4' off the ground while in the mainland USA in the land of Amazon, West Marine, Defender, etc. to figure out what I will do next.  I am planning to replace both the VHF and AIS with antennas that have a PL259 connection at the base of the antenna and run LMR-400 cables to the VHF and AIS. I will let you know how that goes.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

Mark McGovern
 

Mark,

In my case, there is no way to attach a new cable to the old cable at the top of the mast.  At least not that is apparent to me.  The original RG58 Cable seems to be "hardwired" to the Banten AIS antenna at the top of the mizzen mast.  It may be different on Cream Puff. 

I can, however, attach a new cable at the base of the mast and pull a new cable up the mast to the top of the mast.  

Fortunately, I have the luxury of having my mast horizontal and 4' off the ground while in the mainland USA in the land of Amazon, West Marine, Defender, etc. to figure out what I will do next.  I am planning to replace both the VHF and AIS with antennas that have a PL259 connection at the base of the antenna and run LMR-400 cables to the VHF and AIS. I will let you know how that goes.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Mark,

 

This is a project I am about to undertake. It has been on the list for a little while but rolling conditions have stifled my comfort level about going up the mast lately. That, and it’s been so darn hot. All other pieces of the new vhf systems are already in place. The new antennae cable is the final bit.

 

I was planning to securely attach the new cable to the old cable at the top of the mast and then pull it down. Thus, killing two birds with one stone. I am curious why you did not do this. Am I missing something?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mark McGovern
Sent: Saturday, February 6, 2021 3:41 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

 

For posterity, here are some close up pictures of the "bowtie" pieces of foam that are inside the mizzen mast.  They are pieces of cylindrical foam about 10.5 mm in diameter and 40mm long.  They are tied about every ~1.3 meters in the mouse line.  





Unfortunately for me, all four of the mouse lines in the mizzen mast were broken near the top of the mast.  Likely from age and UV damage.  I was able to use a my 50' fish tape to run new mouse lines. 

Also unfortunately for me, the main mast is 56+ feet tall and I only have a 50' fish tape.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

Mark McGovern
 

For posterity, here are some close up pictures of the "bowtie" pieces of foam that are inside the mizzen mast.  They are pieces of cylindrical foam about 10.5 mm in diameter and 40mm long.  They are tied about every ~1.3 meters in the mouse line.  





Unfortunately for me, all four of the mouse lines in the mizzen mast were broken near the top of the mast.  Likely from age and UV damage.  I was able to use a my 50' fish tape to run new mouse lines. 

Also unfortunately for me, the main mast is 56+ feet tall and I only have a 50' fish tape.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

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