Date   

Re: Installing a diesel heater

Paul Osterberg
 

Thank you!
What's the reason for having the heater in the cockpit locker and not in the engine room?
Paul


Re: Installing a diesel heater

Arnold Mente
 

These are plate heat exchangers with a fan. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of the installation, only the cockpit and the backside of it! Left to the Autopilot!!

Arnold



Am 07.11.2020 um 20:44 schrieb Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...>:

Thank you!
What kind of heat exchanger do you have in the cabins? Just convector elements or heat exchanger that blows air into the cabin?
Do you have any photos on the installation?
Paul SY Kerpa


--
Arnold
SY Zephyr SM203


Re: Installing a diesel heater

Paul Osterberg
 

Thank you!
What kind of heat exchanger do you have in the cabins? Just convector elements or heat exchanger that blows air into the cabin?
Do you have any photos on the installation?
Paul SY Kerpa


Re: Installing a diesel heater

Arnold Mente
 

Hi Paul,

I have an Eberpächer Hydronic heater on my SM with an outlet in all cabins, saloon and cockpit. The heating is also connected to the water heater, which requires an Isotemp with 2 heating circuits, a motor and diesel heating. This guarantees hot water preparation even without a motor under sail. We particularly recommend the outlet in the cockpit, which with a closed cockpit ensures a very pleasant temperature in the steering position. Also staying in the cockpit, eating ... is very pleasant. The heater was housed in my cockpit storage space and can be individually regulated in all areas via thermometers. I am very satisfied with this heater, since I already had both air and water heaters on my other boats, I would recommend the hydronic (water heater).

Best

Arnold
SV Zephyr
SM203

Am 07.11.2020 um 19:35 schrieb Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...>:

Hello!
Plan a trip to Nordkapp next season and need to install a diesel heater in our SM (we do not have the forced ventilation). I have searched on the forum but did not find the information I was looking for.
Location of a diesel heater could be in the engine room or in the large cockpit locker. You who have a diesel heater where is it located?
One could choose either air or a water distributed heater, advantage with the water distributed heater, easier to install the water pipe, but the heat elements takes large place. the hot air heater duct takes a lot of space as diameter is 90 mm or about 3½ inch. 
So would very much appreciate you experience and recommendations when it comes to install a diesel heater 
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259, Lagos, Portugal 


--
Arnold
SY Zephyr SM203


Re: Silicone BT seals

William O'Toole
 

Thanks to all for your responses. This site is an amazing resource. 

William Sent from my iPhone 

On Nov 7, 2020, at 3:47 AM, Barry Connor via groups.io <connor_barry@...> wrote:

Hi, this was on our 2006 Amel 54 when we bought in 2015. 
We thought it was a standard attached by Amel at build. Was very helpful when we first sailed but we do more checks now.
<image1.jpeg>
<image0.jpeg>


Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 

On Nov 6, 2020, at 20:33, William O'Toole <william@...> wrote:

Was a private pilot and very familiar with check lists. But…in my sailing I never crossed the concept of checklist from flying pre-flight over to leaving the dock. Humbling realization. Anybody have a checklist for going bow to stern and back again that they could share?
-- 
William O'Toole 
President
EcoNomics, Inc.
832 Camino Del Mar, Suite 1
Del Mar, California   92014
(858) 793-9200 Main Office
(858) 886-6657 San Juan Capistrano Office
(805) 331-9591 Cellular

On Nov 6, 2020, at 4:15 PM, rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Absolutely agree on releasing the pin at the dock or anchorage and decompressing the seals.  On our boat, pulling the pin and flipping the down switch for as short a time as possible usually lowers it just enough to take the pressure off the seals. This leaves the pressure on the cable and the lowering motor mechanism but there is little force if the anchorage/dock is quiet.  I do the same on the hard except i don't like to leave it on the lifting cable/motor mechanism for such a long period of time.  In that case I use a split pin and rest it on that rather than the locking pin.  Because the split pin (AKA cotter key) is a smaller diameter you can rest it on the thinner spllit pin and the seals are not compressed as much.  This may not seem to be a significant distance but it really reduces the compression.  I think it is that tight, tight compression that gives a good seal--but, again--leaving it that way for a long time causes a problem.  Doing this seems to dramatically reduce the leak problem.

Regarding check lists, let me add that they way we prepare for departure is to start inside and go from bow to stern, then outside from bow to stern checking as we go.  So our first item is the bow thruster, windlass/genoa breaker, inside windlass switch, front hatch, cabinet latches, head hatch, toilet emptied, front bilge check......etc...etc.....ending with a look at the rudder quadrant and rear hatch.  We then do the exterior--bow to stern--starting with running lights, anchor, windlass....etc....ending with davits and stern light.  We do the engine room last.  For us, it is the easiest way to do a thorough check.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI  SM429


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Ian Park
 

Hi,
Not sure who you are. Sign of with name, name of boat, and type and hull number e.g.SN 01.
The seals are neoprene. I guess as a temporary measure you could cut them out of neoprene or an old wetsuit! There should be just one inside the boat visible where the shaft goes through the whole. If, as you say, there are two, then it is most likely that there is only one underneath, where there should be two. The previous owner may have installed them the wrong way round. This would also be a likely cause of water coming in.
I guess you might have looked up on the AMEL owner’s web site how to service the bow thruster and replace the seals. It is the same as the Super Maramu.
A couple of suggestions.
Take the pin out. Squeeze the cable as tight as you can and see how far the pin hole rises above where it should be. If it goes a long way (which it could if there is only one neoprene seal on the underside) then the clearly it cannot keep the water out. A temporary improvement can be made by tightening up the threaded nut at the top.
There is a post on how to do this adjustment on the AMEL site with photos. If you search Ocean Hobo bow thruster you should get there.
I don’t have the AMEL tool for lowering the bow thruster. It does do this job, but I also think it has to plug the top of the tube as this is where the oil reservoir is. You don’t want salt water getting in there!
I too have fitted a bilge pump next to my speed transducer in the forward toilet corridor. I fitted a small bore outlet pipe into the shower tray below the wooden grating. I get rain water in there too from the anchor chain hawse hole.
Good luck - it takes a couple of years to get to know all the systems on your Santorin. It is a great boat.

Ian
Ocean Hobo. SN96 currently locked down in Wales.


Installing a diesel heater

Paul Osterberg
 

Hello!
Plan a trip to Nordkapp next season and need to install a diesel heater in our SM (we do not have the forced ventilation). I have searched on the forum but did not find the information I was looking for.
Location of a diesel heater could be in the engine room or in the large cockpit locker. You who have a diesel heater where is it located?
One could choose either air or a water distributed heater, advantage with the water distributed heater, easier to install the water pipe, but the heat elements takes large place. the hot air heater duct takes a lot of space as diameter is 90 mm or about 3½ inch. 
So would very much appreciate you experience and recommendations when it comes to install a diesel heater 
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259, Lagos, Portugal 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

If you scroll to this illustration, you will see how is the Amel special took used (when you overhaul the bow thruster “in” the water):

http://supermaramu2000.com/bow_thruster_overhaul.html


Sincerely, Alexandre




On Saturday, November 7, 2020, 12:00:55 PM CST, Santorin LO via groups.io <santorinlo18@...> wrote:


Hi Group,

Just observed that water is coming through the main cylinder / shaft hole in the forward cabin picture 3 and pic headed "Removed the old seal (please note that I did not had the 2 retainer screws") in Alexanders document) when in wavy seas the hole is below the waterline.

Am currently on a relative long trip in Greece would and would prefer to do the full service when on the hard when done with my trip, will need to fix only this for  now and trying to find out the following:

a. Good to know - what would be the mercy practice for water coming through there on a long passage with no means to get spares and heavy leakage - of course shifting weight back, but anyway to seal it temporarily as it is?

b. Amel tool - what is the use of it? - push down the shat? lead it back to its position? can be done without? seen your direction for it Bill, but unless it is literally IN the the black housing which I didn't open - couldn't see it).

c. the neofoam seals - 2 outside, 1 inside -  meaning? I can see 2 between the shaft to the hole from the cabin, the 3rd on e is below the hole (from its ' sea side)?

d. the relevant problem seal mentioned above - is it only by delivery from Amel or could be found / made by spec - then what is the spec? same question for the neofoam seals.

Thank you all in advance 


Re: Cleaning fresh water tank on my SM2K

RIck Stanley
 

What we did on our SM2K - after we got access to all the hatches - was to first shock the tanks with bleach, then hit them all with a pressure sprayer. Worked like a champ, considering our boat was left up on the hard for 5+ years, and the tanks were black inside.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Santorin LO
 

Hi Group,

Just observed that water is coming through the main cylinder / shaft hole in the forward cabin picture 3 and pic headed "Removed the old seal (please note that I did not had the 2 retainer screws") in Alexanders document) when in wavy seas the hole is below the waterline.

Am currently on a relative long trip in Greece would and would prefer to do the full service when on the hard when done with my trip, will need to fix only this for  now and trying to find out the following:

a. Good to know - what would be the mercy practice for water coming through there on a long passage with no means to get spares and heavy leakage - of course shifting weight back, but anyway to seal it temporarily as it is?

b. Amel tool - what is the use of it? - push down the shat? lead it back to its position? can be done without? seen your direction for it Bill, but unless it is literally IN the the black housing which I didn't open - couldn't see it).

c. the neofoam seals - 2 outside, 1 inside -  meaning? I can see 2 between the shaft to the hole from the cabin, the 3rd on e is below the hole (from its ' sea side)?

d. the relevant problem seal mentioned above - is it only by delivery from Amel or could be found / made by spec - then what is the spec? same question for the neofoam seals.

Thank you all in advance 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon, 


Not sure the message was to me, but since my name is Alexandre, I thought I would answer!!!  


After 1 - 1.5 year, my bow thruster started to leak (water coming in while sailing) (I later realized it often started after I motor too quickly bow thruster down - but that is another story).  


First, I checked every day I used the boat and every 24 hour of sailing (when there was no known leak).  


Second, I added a “High water Alarm”, very practice when there is a leak, you are alerted when you have 15-20 liters of water


Third, I added a bilge pump to remove the water and put it in the head (bathroom - not toilet), which itself would go to the bilge and be emptied from there.   


You have all the pictures on:  

http://supermaramu2000.com/bilge_pump_high_water_alarm_bow_thruster.html


Sincerely, Alexandre (Currently in Geneva, Switzerland). 




On Saturday, November 7, 2020, 11:05:31 AM CST, Santorin LO via groups.io <santorinlo18@...> wrote:


Hi Alexander (or anyone else),
While on relatively long trip in Greece is that when the bow thruster hole (of the cylinder in the forward cabin - the 3rd picture of your page) is underwater (when pitching) - water is coming through. As limited with lifting her right now or perform full service to the bow thruster (no time to get spares etc...). Need to find a quick (but proper) fix to this seal while in the water.

My question are as follows:

a. Good to know - what would be the emergency practice to this problem middle of long passage? (except of shifting weight to stern) anyway to seal it from the top without removing anything?
b. The specific seal is only from Amel or could be found or made anywhere?
c. What is the Amel special tool for - only to lead the shaft/cylinder back to its hole? can the bow thruster be removed and back without?
d. Would it be relatively easy to replace the seal without the tool?

Getting to know our baby better and better...

Cheers


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Santorin LO
 

Hi Alexander (or anyone else),
While on relatively long trip in Greece is that when the bow thruster hole (of the cylinder in the forward cabin - the 3rd picture of your page) is underwater (when pitching) - water is coming through. As limited with lifting her right now or perform full service to the bow thruster (no time to get spares etc...). Need to find a quick (but proper) fix to this seal while in the water.

My question are as follows:

a. Good to know - what would be the emergency practice to this problem middle of long passage? (except of shifting weight to stern) anyway to seal it from the top without removing anything?
b. The specific seal is only from Amel or could be found or made anywhere?
c. What is the Amel special tool for - only to lead the shaft/cylinder back to its hole? can the bow thruster be removed and back without?
d. Would it be relatively easy to replace the seal without the tool?

Getting to know our baby better and better...

Cheers


Re: Cleaning fresh water tank on my SM2K

Gary Wells
 

I am going to stick my neck out a bit and say that first, it's not that bad, second a serious and time consuming effort may get only moderate results and finally, if you have a year of patience you'll see improvements by staying with a 'program' of treatments.

I've had good luck with using moderately strong concentrations of bleach (about 6 ounces in a tank fill-up) every third or fourth time I add water.

Having said that, living aboard we go through 1,000 liters pretty quickly when dockside.

After each "shock" the water smells strongly of chlorine for a day or two.  That's when it's time to wash the sheets :)

The next fill-up is plain water, and may still smell of chlorine very slightly depending on how far down we depleted the tank.  
Only on the third fill will I then flush the watermaker.  After that I'll add 1/4 tsp of the StarBright water purifier. 
Then the next one is plain water, then the next one (or one more if I lose count) is back to bleach.  It works out to about monthly to bi-monthly. 

The bleach treatments will kill a charcoal water filter quickly so I just use paper/fiber ones.  

I also believe that if we were to highly chlorinated water sit in the lines it would be detrimental to pumps and valves and especially the copper fittings (nipples) on the holding tanks, so we always make sure we use the "bleached tank" of water fairly quickly.

Give it two years and see :) 

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
Maryland, USA


Re: Cleaning fresh water tank on my SM2K

David Kurtz
 

Thanks, everyone.  I’m going to follow along the lines of what James and James both did.  Scrub it down, hit it with another dose of chlorine bleach in the spring, close it up and not think about it for a year.  If anyone asks, I’ll just refer to it as my guppy fish tank...😊.  And Bill, you’re absolutely right.  We frequently installed level sensors, high water alarms, etc. in municipal water system tanks up here in southeastern Michigan and they are pretty crusty in there.  Consntruction crews will still, very occasionally, dig up wooden water pipes still in use.
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan


Re: Silicone BT seals

Barry Connor
 

Hi, this was on our 2006 Amel 54 when we bought in 2015. 
We thought it was a standard attached by Amel at build. Was very helpful when we first sailed but we do more checks now.

Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 

On Nov 6, 2020, at 20:33, William O'Toole <william@...> wrote:

Was a private pilot and very familiar with check lists. But…in my sailing I never crossed the concept of checklist from flying pre-flight over to leaving the dock. Humbling realization. Anybody have a checklist for going bow to stern and back again that they could share?
-- 
William O'Toole 
President
EcoNomics, Inc.
832 Camino Del Mar, Suite 1
Del Mar, California   92014
(858) 793-9200 Main Office
(858) 886-6657 San Juan Capistrano Office
(805) 331-9591 Cellular

On Nov 6, 2020, at 4:15 PM, rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Absolutely agree on releasing the pin at the dock or anchorage and decompressing the seals.  On our boat, pulling the pin and flipping the down switch for as short a time as possible usually lowers it just enough to take the pressure off the seals. This leaves the pressure on the cable and the lowering motor mechanism but there is little force if the anchorage/dock is quiet.  I do the same on the hard except i don't like to leave it on the lifting cable/motor mechanism for such a long period of time.  In that case I use a split pin and rest it on that rather than the locking pin.  Because the split pin (AKA cotter key) is a smaller diameter you can rest it on the thinner spllit pin and the seals are not compressed as much.  This may not seem to be a significant distance but it really reduces the compression.  I think it is that tight, tight compression that gives a good seal--but, again--leaving it that way for a long time causes a problem.  Doing this seems to dramatically reduce the leak problem.

Regarding check lists, let me add that they way we prepare for departure is to start inside and go from bow to stern, then outside from bow to stern checking as we go.  So our first item is the bow thruster, windlass/genoa breaker, inside windlass switch, front hatch, cabinet latches, head hatch, toilet emptied, front bilge check......etc...etc.....ending with a look at the rudder quadrant and rear hatch.  We then do the exterior--bow to stern--starting with running lights, anchor, windlass....etc....ending with davits and stern light.  We do the engine room last.  For us, it is the easiest way to do a thorough check.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI  SM429


Re: Silicone BT seals

William O'Toole
 

Excellent suggestion. Use flow to create the list. (You commercial big iron guys are the best!)

William Sent from my iPhone 

On Nov 6, 2020, at 5:00 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

Hello William,

I flew heavies and they all use a flow form of checklist.  I have never needed a written one but you could develop your own, specific to your vessel, broken down by areas of concern.  

Include BT pin removal before leaving the dock.  Start the engine 10 minutes before leaving the dock if it is likely you’ll need to give it the beans… perhaps run the genset if you expect to use the BT or windlass.

Fair winds,


Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, NZ



On 7 Nov 2020, at 13:32, William O'Toole <william@...> wrote:

Was a private pilot and very familiar with check lists. But…in my sailing I never crossed the concept of checklist from flying pre-flight over to leaving the dock. Humbling realization. Anybody have a checklist for going bow to stern and back again that they could share?
-- 
William O'Toole 
President
EcoNomics, Inc.
832 Camino Del Mar, Suite 1
Del Mar, California   92014
(858) 793-9200 Main Office
(858) 886-6657 San Juan Capistrano Office
(805) 331-9591 Cellular

On Nov 6, 2020, at 4:15 PM, rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Absolutely agree on releasing the pin at the dock or anchorage and decompressing the seals.  On our boat, pulling the pin and flipping the down switch for as short a time as possible usually lowers it just enough to take the pressure off the seals. This leaves the pressure on the cable and the lowering motor mechanism but there is little force if the anchorage/dock is quiet.  I do the same on the hard except i don't like to leave it on the lifting cable/motor mechanism for such a long period of time.  In that case I use a split pin and rest it on that rather than the locking pin.  Because the split pin (AKA cotter key) is a smaller diameter you can rest it on the thinner spllit pin and the seals are not compressed as much.  This may not seem to be a significant distance but it really reduces the compression.  I think it is that tight, tight compression that gives a good seal--but, again--leaving it that way for a long time causes a problem.  Doing this seems to dramatically reduce the leak problem.

Regarding check lists, let me add that they way we prepare for departure is to start inside and go from bow to stern, then outside from bow to stern checking as we go.  So our first item is the bow thruster, windlass/genoa breaker, inside windlass switch, front hatch, cabinet latches, head hatch, toilet emptied, front bilge check......etc...etc.....ending with a look at the rudder quadrant and rear hatch.  We then do the exterior--bow to stern--starting with running lights, anchor, windlass....etc....ending with davits and stern light.  We do the engine room last.  For us, it is the easiest way to do a thorough check.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI  SM429



Re: Silicone BT seals

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello William,

I flew heavies and they all use a flow form of checklist.  I have never needed a written one but you could develop your own, specific to your vessel, broken down by areas of concern.  

Include BT pin removal before leaving the dock.  Start the engine 10 minutes before leaving the dock if it is likely you’ll need to give it the beans… perhaps run the genset if you expect to use the BT or windlass.

Fair winds,


Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, NZ



On 7 Nov 2020, at 13:32, William O'Toole <william@...> wrote:

Was a private pilot and very familiar with check lists. But…in my sailing I never crossed the concept of checklist from flying pre-flight over to leaving the dock. Humbling realization. Anybody have a checklist for going bow to stern and back again that they could share?
-- 
William O'Toole 
President
EcoNomics, Inc.
832 Camino Del Mar, Suite 1
Del Mar, California   92014
(858) 793-9200 Main Office
(858) 886-6657 San Juan Capistrano Office
(805) 331-9591 Cellular

On Nov 6, 2020, at 4:15 PM, rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Absolutely agree on releasing the pin at the dock or anchorage and decompressing the seals.  On our boat, pulling the pin and flipping the down switch for as short a time as possible usually lowers it just enough to take the pressure off the seals. This leaves the pressure on the cable and the lowering motor mechanism but there is little force if the anchorage/dock is quiet.  I do the same on the hard except i don't like to leave it on the lifting cable/motor mechanism for such a long period of time.  In that case I use a split pin and rest it on that rather than the locking pin.  Because the split pin (AKA cotter key) is a smaller diameter you can rest it on the thinner spllit pin and the seals are not compressed as much.  This may not seem to be a significant distance but it really reduces the compression.  I think it is that tight, tight compression that gives a good seal--but, again--leaving it that way for a long time causes a problem.  Doing this seems to dramatically reduce the leak problem.

Regarding check lists, let me add that they way we prepare for departure is to start inside and go from bow to stern, then outside from bow to stern checking as we go.  So our first item is the bow thruster, windlass/genoa breaker, inside windlass switch, front hatch, cabinet latches, head hatch, toilet emptied, front bilge check......etc...etc.....ending with a look at the rudder quadrant and rear hatch.  We then do the exterior--bow to stern--starting with running lights, anchor, windlass....etc....ending with davits and stern light.  We do the engine room last.  For us, it is the easiest way to do a thorough check.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI  SM429



Re: Silicone BT seals

William O'Toole
 

Was a private pilot and very familiar with check lists. But…in my sailing I never crossed the concept of checklist from flying pre-flight over to leaving the dock. Humbling realization. Anybody have a checklist for going bow to stern and back again that they could share?
-- 
William O'Toole 
President
EcoNomics, Inc.
832 Camino Del Mar, Suite 1
Del Mar, California   92014
(858) 793-9200 Main Office
(858) 886-6657 San Juan Capistrano Office
(805) 331-9591 Cellular

On Nov 6, 2020, at 4:15 PM, rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Absolutely agree on releasing the pin at the dock or anchorage and decompressing the seals.  On our boat, pulling the pin and flipping the down switch for as short a time as possible usually lowers it just enough to take the pressure off the seals. This leaves the pressure on the cable and the lowering motor mechanism but there is little force if the anchorage/dock is quiet.  I do the same on the hard except i don't like to leave it on the lifting cable/motor mechanism for such a long period of time.  In that case I use a split pin and rest it on that rather than the locking pin.  Because the split pin (AKA cotter key) is a smaller diameter you can rest it on the thinner spllit pin and the seals are not compressed as much.  This may not seem to be a significant distance but it really reduces the compression.  I think it is that tight, tight compression that gives a good seal--but, again--leaving it that way for a long time causes a problem.  Doing this seems to dramatically reduce the leak problem.

Regarding check lists, let me add that they way we prepare for departure is to start inside and go from bow to stern, then outside from bow to stern checking as we go.  So our first item is the bow thruster, windlass/genoa breaker, inside windlass switch, front hatch, cabinet latches, head hatch, toilet emptied, front bilge check......etc...etc.....ending with a look at the rudder quadrant and rear hatch.  We then do the exterior--bow to stern--starting with running lights, anchor, windlass....etc....ending with davits and stern light.  We do the engine room last.  For us, it is the easiest way to do a thorough check.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI  SM429


Re: Silicone BT seals

rossirossix4
 

Absolutely agree on releasing the pin at the dock or anchorage and decompressing the seals.  On our boat, pulling the pin and flipping the down switch for as short a time as possible usually lowers it just enough to take the pressure off the seals. This leaves the pressure on the cable and the lowering motor mechanism but there is little force if the anchorage/dock is quiet.  I do the same on the hard except i don't like to leave it on the lifting cable/motor mechanism for such a long period of time.  In that case I use a split pin and rest it on that rather than the locking pin.  Because the split pin (AKA cotter key) is a smaller diameter you can rest it on the thinner spllit pin and the seals are not compressed as much.  This may not seem to be a significant distance but it really reduces the compression.  I think it is that tight, tight compression that gives a good seal--but, again--leaving it that way for a long time causes a problem.  Doing this seems to dramatically reduce the leak problem.

Regarding check lists, let me add that they way we prepare for departure is to start inside and go from bow to stern, then outside from bow to stern checking as we go.  So our first item is the bow thruster, windlass/genoa breaker, inside windlass switch, front hatch, cabinet latches, head hatch, toilet emptied, front bilge check......etc...etc.....ending with a look at the rudder quadrant and rear hatch.  We then do the exterior--bow to stern--starting with running lights, anchor, windlass....etc....ending with davits and stern light.  We do the engine room last.  For us, it is the easiest way to do a thorough check.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI  SM429


Re: Cleaning fresh water tank on my SM2K

Karen Smith
 

Your trivia for the day....

The fish added to cisterns is usually Gambusia affinis the "mosquito fish" a close relative of the "guppy," and very similar looking.  

I don't know about on Bonaire, but on some of the other Caribbean Islands if you have a cistern you are required to keep a living population of Gambusia, or treat regularly with a chemical larvicide to keep mosquito larvae in check. People chose one or the other depending on their own personal bias against fish poop, or chemicals!

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