Date   

Re: Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Dominique,
We are hauled out at Gulf Harbour, Auckland,  because of caramel C-drive oil....and some keel scrapes that need attention. I've done the C-drive, now waiting on the keel.
Amel recommendation to change the C-drive bague d'usure, seals and oil is 800 hrs / 2 years.
Trust this of help.
Where in NZ is your Amel ?
Avec mes salutations les meilleures
Alan
Elsyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement

eric freedman
 

Vladimir,

I believe if you look at the heat exchanger on the forward end of the Onan you will find a bolt which is actually a short pencil zinc.

THAT ONE IS IMPORTANT.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2017 11:18 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement

 

 

Hi Bill,

How did you attach zink to the raw water manifold?
I do not see zinks on the Yanmar or Onan.

Vladimir
SM#345

 

On Jan 9, 2017 10:30 AM, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Don't forget about the zincs in the engine and generator... they are there for the same reason:  the zinc on the rudder is NOT going to protect anything inside the engine room.  



The bonding serves two purposes: to drain off stray currents and protect underwater metals from galvanic corrosion with the zinc.  For parts up inside the engine room connected to the ocean by a hose the galvanic protection available from an external zinc is so close to zero it makes no nevermind, but the stray current protection is still really important. That's why the engine and generator zincs are so important to keep on top of seperate from the rudder zinc.

 

Worst case:  the zinc installed in the manifold dissolves faster than the rudder zinc.  But it is a piece of cake to replace.  And guess what?  If it dissolves quickly, that means it is needed!

 

It sure sounds to me like some of the original manifolds installed had some brazing issues that might have been helped by an installed zinc if they are failing in as little as 8 years.

 

Bill Kinney

SM#160  Harmonie

Rose Island, Bahamas

 



---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote :

If you place a zinc on the manifold and also leave the manifold connected to the bonding system, that zinc will be the closest zinc to all items in the bonding system and will deteriorate before the rudder zincs.

Yes, it can't hurt, but I would not advise it if the manifold is connected to the bonding system.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

eric freedman
 

Vladimir,

There was no significant difference between the before and after bearing change .

However the engine gained 1000 RPM’s. I believe the difference cannot be detected when the boat is on the hard but when the prop is turning 1000 rpm I am sure that makes the difference.

 

Where are you located?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2017 10:03 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

 

 

Eric,

Thanks for your email. It is interesting.
I have my boat for one year.  The engine has more than 4,000 hours.  I don't know if bearings were replaced before. I greased prop bearings 2 times. Prop blades rotate freely. There is no play. There is no evidence of any bearing damage.  What else could go wrong? Did you feel anything wrong before you change the bears? Could you feel any difference in blade rotation after the bearings change?

Vladimir
SM#345 "LIFE IS GOOD"

 

On Jan 9, 2017 1:00 AM, "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I had the same problem with Kimberlite. Even though when I hauled her and tried to wiggle the blades of the autoprop they seemed normal. After exhausting all other possibilities , I spend a day and rebuilt the autoprop.

Voila back to 3500 rpm. I also rebuilt the prop at about 3500 hours.

The autoprop is a sensitive beast and the slightest out of balance will kill your rpm.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2017 12:18 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

 

 

Hi Vlad and Dominique,

AutoProps require regular maintenance.  If you haven't done that in a couple of years, that may be your problem.  There are some other threads on this forum that discuss this vis a vis low rpm.  Just spinning the blades on the hub doesn't tell you much.  They can feel perfectly free wheeling, and still be a problem.

If you don't run your engine hard on a regular basis, you can get a serious buildup of carbon in the turbo and exhaust elbow.  That's the second place to look.

Let us know what you find.

Kent

 


From: "Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, January 8, 2017 11:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

 

 

Hi Dominique,

I also have 75 HP YANMAR engine 4JH3-TE. I also can't develop more than 2200-2500 RPM.
I am discussing this problem with Autoprop.  I suspect that perhaps prop provides to much torque load.

Autoprop ask me for transmission gear ratio. The label on my transmission is gone. I requested this information from Amel. I am waiting for a reply now.

Autoprop also ask me to conduct some tests. I can't do the tests now because my boat is on hard.
I will keep you posted.

Vladimir
SM#345 "LIFE IS GOOD"

 

On Jan 8, 2017 10:26 PM, "songhui_ma@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Happy New Year 2017

 

Yanmar 4JH3-TE - 3600 hours - 1500 hours maintenance. 

 

A New Zealand mechanic replaced the injectors with Yanmar ones I provided and sourced in the US [Niemiec] Both mechanic and my US provider confirmed that it was the correct part #. 

 

However and since I cannot go over 2300 RPM.

The smoke is pretty transparent neither black or white. 

 

I browsed the internet, got a lot of ideas, but nothing which jumped out.

I suspect it is related to the Turbo - over 2300 RPM - that I have not used much and realized I should have.   

 

Suggestions greatly appreciated

 

Thanks

Dominique 

S/V Viva 

SM #374 

Opua, NZ 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Dominique. I see you are on new Zealand, if NZ means new Zealand. We are at our home port of Mangonui in the far north and we extend an invitation to you and any other amels currently in nz to visit us in Mangonui. It is a safe and sheltered harbour with good anchorages and access to services. our phone no is 0274 876 368.
Regards
Danny 
SM 299
Ocean Pearl


On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 14:18, Dominique Guenot dominique_guenot@... [amelyachtowners]
wrote:
 

Thanks Bill and all for sharing your thoughts and experience and taking the time.  


I will clean the Turbo per your recommendation when we will come back from our road trip at the end of February


Regarding the Autoprop I have it serviced by Amel Caraibes early February at 2600 hours as well as the C-Drive.

Then I have cleaned the Autoprop diving several times since to ensure good mobility.

We are now in NZ at 3600 hours.


What is your recommended hours to service the C-drive - we assume no mayonnaise in the oil ?

and the Autoprop?


Thank you

Dominique Guenot 

+64 21 086 50 233 

You'll need Skype CreditFree via Skype
You'll need Skype CreditFree via Skype
You'll need Skype CreditFree via Skype


Looking for information SM246

rcavie <no_reply@...>
 

I am not Amel Owner but I hope to be in the near future, and I learn a lot in this group.

Recently I see the AMEL SM246 Agapanthe in St Martin, Caribbe. I will appreciate if anyone has information on the history of this boat.

Thank you very much

Rafael

Rcavie@...



 


Re: Stern Bumper for SM2000

Dominique Guenot
 

Thank you very much Colin and all.


I will contact Amel


Cheers

Dominique Guenot 
+64 21 086 50 233 


Re: Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

Dominique Guenot
 

Thanks Bill and all for sharing your thoughts and experience and taking the time.  


I will clean the Turbo per your recommendation when we will come back from our road trip at the end of February


Regarding the Autoprop I have it serviced by Amel Caraibes early February at 2600 hours as well as the C-Drive.

Then I have cleaned the Autoprop diving several times since to ensure good mobility.

We are now in NZ at 3600 hours.

 

What is your recommended hours to service the C-drive - we assume no mayonnaise in the oil ?

and the Autoprop?


Thank you

Dominique Guenot 

+64 21 086 50 233 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water manifold replacement

Craig Briggs
 

I would add that, rather than using PVC at the thru-hull, keep your durable metal thru-hull fitting and then transition to the PVC using a flexible rubber connector to isolate vibration. These flex connectors are standard plumbing supplies. I've used PVC for years for all toilet plumbing and find if far superior to flexible hose - no odors and easy to clean out mineral build-up - again with flexible couplings to thru hulls, holding tank and toilet. 
Craig Briggs, SN#68, Sangaris



---In amelyachtowners@..., <greatketch@...> wrote :

There are reasons not to use PVC for through hull connections, although it is certainly easy to fabricate, cheap and impervious to corrosion.

It is much more brittle than stainless, or bronze or the original copper. It can fail it something hits it or someone steps on it or from long term vibration.  I know, I know, such a thing is very unlikely, but the first rule of sailing is to keep the water out of the boat--always.

In the event of a fire, PVC would have a very short life span before it fails and water floods the boat.  PVC begins to seriously soften at temperatures as low as 140F, which is not that far above an Amel engine room on a hot sunny day in the tropics with the engine running.

If plastic still seems like a good idea, use schedule 80 pipe AND fittings for extra strength and use CPVC, not PVC, for it's higher temperature rating. Also, if you use plastic hose barbs be sure they meet the same strength and temperature specs--they are not easy to find.  I have had too many PVC and nylon hose barb adapters break off while removing hoses to ever trust them on through hulls.

There are plastics that can be reliably used in through hull applications (Marelon comes to mind) but PVC?  Not so sure...

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Rose Island, Bahamas




---In amelyachtowners@..., <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote :

I made a new manifold out of PVC




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

V,

There is no zinc on your Yanmar engine, but there is a small zinc on the Onan Generator. 

Both the engine and the generator were connected to the Amel bonding system when the boat was manufactured. I believe that the reason that there is a zinc on the Onan is because Amel could not buy the Onan without a zinc.

The Onan zinc is located on the top and port-side back end of the Onan heat exchanger. It looks like a brass bolt. Refer to your manual for more info.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 4:18 PM, Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill,

How did you attach zink to the raw water manifold?
I do not see zinks on the Yanmar or Onan.

Vladimir
SM#345


On Jan 9, 2017 10:30 AM, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Don't forget about the zincs in the engine and generator... they are there for the same reason:  the zinc on the rudder is NOT going to protect anything inside the engine room.  


The bonding serves two purposes: to drain off stray currents and protect underwater metals from galvanic corrosion with the zinc.  For parts up inside the engine room connected to the ocean by a hose the galvanic protection available from an external zinc is so close to zero it makes no nevermind, but the stray current protection is still really important. That's why the engine and generator zincs are so important to keep on top of seperate from the rudder zinc.

Worst case:  the zinc installed in the manifold dissolves faster than the rudder zinc.  But it is a piece of cake to replace.  And guess what?  If it dissolves quickly, that means it is needed!

It sure sounds to me like some of the original manifolds installed had some brazing issues that might have been helped by an installed zinc if they are failing in as little as 8 years.

Bill Kinney
SM#160  Harmonie
Rose Island, Bahamas



---In amelyachtowners@...m, wrote :

If you place a zinc on the manifold and also leave the manifold connected to the bonding system, that zinc will be the closest zinc to all items in the bonding system and will deteriorate before the rudder zincs.

Yes, it can't hurt, but I would not advise it if the manifold is connected to the bonding system.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Thanks to evrybody. Your help is appreciated.

Vladimir
SM#345 "LIFE IS GOOD"


On Jan 9, 2017 11:59 AM, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Vladimir,


You can't easily add a zinc to an existing manifold.  If you are having a new manifold fabricated, you have an extra 1/4 or 1/8 NPT port added that a standard pencil zinc will thread into.

Most marine engines have zincs on the heat exchanger. I am not sure where Yanmar puts theirs. Volvos (like my engine) are the most common exception to the rule and do not use cooling system zincs on most of their engines.  

The Onan has a pencil zinc on the heat exchanger head on the end of the engine opposite the generator.  If you haven't replaced it in a long time, you will likely need to replace the brass plug as well as the zinc pencil. If you haven't replaced it in a really long time, the brass plug can crumble when you try to remove it and make a simple project a messy one.  And if you don't replace it for a really, REALLY long time, the brass plug can crumble on its own and flood the boat.  

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Rose Island, Bahamas



---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, wrote :

Hi Bill,

How did you attach zink to the raw water manifold?
I do not see zinks on the Yanmar or Onan.

Vladimir
SM#345




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement

greatketch@...
 

Vladimir,

You can't easily add a zinc to an existing manifold.  If you are having a new manifold fabricated, you have an extra 1/4 or 1/8 NPT port added that a standard pencil zinc will thread into.

Most marine engines have zincs on the heat exchanger. I am not sure where Yanmar puts theirs. Volvos (like my engine) are the most common exception to the rule and do not use cooling system zincs on most of their engines.  

The Onan has a pencil zinc on the heat exchanger head on the end of the engine opposite the generator.  If you haven't replaced it in a long time, you will likely need to replace the brass plug as well as the zinc pencil. If you haven't replaced it in a really long time, the brass plug can crumble when you try to remove it and make a simple project a messy one.  And if you don't replace it for a really, REALLY long time, the brass plug can crumble on its own and flood the boat.  

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Rose Island, Bahamas



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sonsev52@...> wrote :

Hi Bill,

How did you attach zink to the raw water manifold?
I do not see zinks on the Yanmar or Onan.

Vladimir
SM#345




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fridge for Santorin

Ric Gottschalk <ric@...>
 

Hi,

I replaced my Frig. several years ago with a 2 drawer ac/dc vitrifrigo. It has a SS finish and fits with very little modification. The top drawer is a freezer and bottom refrigerator. You can adjust the temperature. Both drawers has a large capacity. My Santorin did not have a separate freezer, so it is a major improvement. I have also added an Engel 35 for additional freezer space  

Ric

Bali Hai SN24

Annapolis

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2017 3:34 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fridge for Santorin

 

 

Hi Santorin Owners,

did anyone exchange the fridge? We are looking for a replacement that should have a small freezer, like the original one. Our fridge runs now about 2/3 of the time or more and needs too much amps per day, so we think we will replace it by a new model, but it should fit without modifications at the nice mahagoni door...


we found the Waeco CRX110 would fit from the dimensions, has also a nice freezer, but the opening mechanism seems not to be compatible with the current system/door.

The Isotherm Cruise 130 would also fit but there is no real freezer inside, only for temporary use (info from the manual)

What models will fit, any recommendations / experiences?

thx,  herbert
SN120, KALI MERA, Dominica

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

On my Onan, the zinc are on the heat exchanger.

I don’t have any on my engine (Volvo)

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Harbor View Marina, Tortola, BVI




--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 1/9/17, Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, January 9, 2017, 10:18 AM


 









Hi Bill,
How did you attach zink to the raw water
manifold?

I do not see zinks on the Yanmar or Onan.
Vladimir

SM#345

On Jan 9, 2017 10:30 AM,
"greatketch@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:















 









Don't forget about the zincs in the engine and
generator... they are there for the same reason:  the zinc on the rudder is NOT
going to protect anything inside the engine room.
 
The bonding serves two
purposes: to drain off stray currents and protect underwater
metals from galvanic corrosion with the zinc.  For parts up
inside the engine room connected to the ocean by a hose the
galvanic protection available from an external zinc is so
close to zero it makes no nevermind, but the stray current
protection is still really important. That's why the
engine and generator zincs are so important to keep on top
of seperate from the rudder zinc.
Worst case:  the zinc installed in
the manifold dissolves faster than the rudder zinc.  But it
is a piece of cake to replace.  And guess what?  If it
dissolves quickly, that means it is needed!
It sure sounds to me like some of
the original manifolds installed had some brazing issues
that might have been helped by an installed zinc if they are
failing in as little as 8 years.
Bill
KinneySM#160
 HarmonieRose
Island, Bahamas


---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com, <yahoogroups@...> wrote :

If you place a zinc on the manifold and also leave
the manifold connected to the bonding system, that zinc will
be the closest zinc to all items in the bonding system and
will deteriorate before the rudder zincs.Yes, it can't hurt, but I would not advise it
if the manifold is connected to the bonding system.Bill Rouse

BeBe Amel 53 #387

Sent from my tablet

+1832-380-4970 USA Voice
Mail
































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Hi Bill,

How did you attach zink to the raw water manifold?
I do not see zinks on the Yanmar or Onan.

Vladimir
SM#345


On Jan 9, 2017 10:30 AM, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Don't forget about the zincs in the engine and generator... they are there for the same reason:  the zinc on the rudder is NOT going to protect anything inside the engine room.  


The bonding serves two purposes: to drain off stray currents and protect underwater metals from galvanic corrosion with the zinc.  For parts up inside the engine room connected to the ocean by a hose the galvanic protection available from an external zinc is so close to zero it makes no nevermind, but the stray current protection is still really important. That's why the engine and generator zincs are so important to keep on top of seperate from the rudder zinc.

Worst case:  the zinc installed in the manifold dissolves faster than the rudder zinc.  But it is a piece of cake to replace.  And guess what?  If it dissolves quickly, that means it is needed!

It sure sounds to me like some of the original manifolds installed had some brazing issues that might have been helped by an installed zinc if they are failing in as little as 8 years.

Bill Kinney
SM#160  Harmonie
Rose Island, Bahamas



---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, wrote :

If you place a zinc on the manifold and also leave the manifold connected to the bonding system, that zinc will be the closest zinc to all items in the bonding system and will deteriorate before the rudder zincs.

Yes, it can't hurt, but I would not advise it if the manifold is connected to the bonding system.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water manifold replacement

greatketch@...
 

There are reasons not to use PVC for through hull connections, although it is certainly easy to fabricate, cheap and impervious to corrosion.

It is much more brittle than stainless, or bronze or the original copper. It can fail it something hits it or someone steps on it or from long term vibration.  I know, I know, such a thing is very unlikely, but the first rule of sailing is to keep the water out of the boat--always.

In the event of a fire, PVC would have a very short life span before it fails and water floods the boat.  PVC begins to seriously soften at temperatures as low as 140F, which is not that far above an Amel engine room on a hot sunny day in the tropics with the engine running.

If plastic still seems like a good idea, use schedule 80 pipe AND fittings for extra strength and use CPVC, not PVC, for it's higher temperature rating. Also, if you use plastic hose barbs be sure they meet the same strength and temperature specs--they are not easy to find.  I have had too many PVC and nylon hose barb adapters break off while removing hoses to ever trust them on through hulls.

There are plastics that can be reliably used in through hull applications (Marelon comes to mind) but PVC?  Not so sure...

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Rose Island, Bahamas




---In amelyachtowners@..., <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote :

I made a new manifold out of PVC




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling

Craig Briggs
 

Remember that these Vetus couplings are designed for conventional drive shaft installations where the propeller is pushing the shaft forward (or pulling it back in reverse gear). That is why they specify drilling a hole in the drive shaft and installing the roll pin. (They used to use a set screw, which could easily slip and you could loose the shaft right out the back of the boat - ask me how I know.) 
On our Amels there is no force pushing or pulling the shaft and the pin is absolutely not needed, thus Steve's choice is totally correct. The key transfers the rotational force from the engine drive shaft to the "C" drive input shaft and is all that is needed.
Craig, SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <flyboyscd@...> wrote :

You can pull up a detailed drawing of the KO5 (type 6) coupling on the web. It does have a keyway. However, on the Vetus instructions, they say you must drill through the shaft, and use a provided roll pin. We chose not to compromise the shaft by drilling, and just used the keyway which seemed identical to the old broken coupling. 

Steve
Aloha SM72

On Jan 9, 2017, at 02:08, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


Damn, Eric, I don't know.  I was sitting in the cockpit while the mechanic was doing the hands on work.
Kent


From: "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Monday, January 9, 2017 1:01 AM
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling

 
Did the coupling have a keyway in it?
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2017 12:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling
 
 
It came from Amel with the new C drive, Eric.  I didn't compare it closely with the old one, but they seemed to be the same.
Kent
 

From: "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, January 8, 2017 11:55 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling
 
 
When you installed your yanmar did you use a stock Vetus coupling or did you purchase it from Amel?
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2017 11:33 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Replacing Vetus Coupling Bolts
 
 
Hi Eric,
The coupling needs to fit a 35mm shaft.  The 60mm is what the coupling housing would go over and is the "hub" of the coupling.  Thought that bit of info might be helpful.  
 
Not sure if it pertains to your project but an earlier posting made me think that the stock Vetus couplings would not work for the later SMs with Yanmars.  It stated--from posting number 22356-- "Pat We have been down this road using the Standard Vetus coupling you describe. It does not fit. We ordered ours from Amel as they have a special build. The one in the catalog is approx. 5MM to long and it can not be shortened to make it fit. Paul & Susan LaFrance SV NOMAD SM#362". 
 
I'll include this for thread continuity on the replacement of the coupling bollts--Regarding my project to replace the bushings using bolts threaded at both ends, an email to Danny (with a Volvo engine) confirmed that he was able to replace the bolts by sliding the engine back, splitting the coupling, replacing the rubber bushings and then sliding the bolts through before reassembling the 2 coupling housings.  Interesting--he did this in Tonga and could not obtain the bushings so he carved come out of truck suspension bushings and they worked fine for several years, showing no wear when he replaced them with the Vetus bushings.
 
A question I still have is how the Vetus hub is removed from the shaft coming from the C drive (especially for the Yanmar era SMs).  Is it removed by drilling out a pin in the hub? Any gurus out there with an answer?
 
I plan to post some pic of our bushing replacement project one I have the bushings and can complete the project.
 
Bob, KAIMI
SM 429
 
 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Vladimir,

When you purchase the boat, were you able to excel 2300 rpm?

I have the Volvo TMD 22 P (rated at 78 HP at 4500 rpm), moving I am not able to exceed 2400 rpm.
If I am fully stop, then I can increase the throttle then exceed 2400, but as the boat starts moving forward the rpm will decrease.
My understanding is that it is typical of the Super Maramu, if my memory is correct due to over sized propeller.
Kent had his propeller re pitched to solve that issue.

Note: careful not to exceed 90% of your throttle. Example if you are standing still, get 2800 rpm then as you start moving the rpm decrease, you will need to reduce the throttle accordingly until you see a little drop on the rpm.

I had my Auto prop completely rebuilt 2 years ago and it did not make any difference in my case.
I was told the Auto Prop should be rebuilt every 2000 hours or 10 years (and of course greased at every haul out).

If you previously were able to exceed the 2300 rpm, then make sure your propeller is very clean.
Last August in San Juan, there was lots of growth, and I could not exceed 1350 rpm - after diving and cleaning was back to 2400 rpm.
You would be surprised how little growth will make such difference on performance.

If you were previous able to exceed 2300 rpm, it is also possible your boat is more loaded/heavier and that will penalize you as well.


Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Harbor View Marina, Tortola, BVI





--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 1/9/17, Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, January 9, 2017, 9:02 AM


 









Eric,
Thanks for your email. It is interesting.

I have my boat for one year.  The engine has more than
4,000 hours.  I don't know if bearings were replaced
before. I greased prop bearings 2 times. Prop blades rotate
freely. There is no play. There is no evidence of any
bearing damage.  What else could go wrong? Did you feel
anything wrong before you change the bears? Could you feel
any difference in blade rotation after the bearings change?

Vladimir

SM#345 "LIFE IS GOOD"

On Jan 9, 2017 1:00 AM,
"'sailormon' kimberlite@optonline.net
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:















 









I had the same problem
with Kimberlite. Even though when I hauled her and tried to
wiggle the blades of the autoprop they seemed normal. After
exhausting all other possibilities , I spend a day and
rebuilt the autoprop.Voila back to 3500 rpm.
I also rebuilt the prop at about 3500
hours.The autoprop is a
sensitive beast and the slightest out of balance will kill
your rpm.Fair
WindsEricKimberlite Amel Super
Maramu #376   From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com [mailto:amelyachtowners@
yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday,
January 09, 2017 12:18 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht
Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300
RPM   Hi Vlad and
Dominique,AutoProps require
regular maintenance.  If you haven't done that in a
couple of years, that may be your problem.  There are some
other threads on this forum that discuss this vis a vis low
rpm.  Just spinning the blades on the hub doesn't tell
you much.  They can feel perfectly free wheeling, and still
be a problem.If you don't run
your engine hard on a regular basis, you can get a serious
buildup of carbon in the turbo and exhaust elbow. 
That's the second place to
look.Let us know what you
find.Kent From: "Vladimir Sonsev
sonsev52@gmail.com
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com
Sent: Sunday, January 8,
2017 11:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel
Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300
RPM  
Hi
Dominique, I also
have 75 HP YANMAR engine 4JH3-TE. I also can't develop
more than 2200-2500 RPM.
I am discussing
this problem with Autoprop.  I suspect that perhaps prop
provides to much torque
load.Autoprop ask me for transmission gear
ratio. The label on my transmission is gone. I requested
this information from Amel. I am waiting for a reply now.
Autoprop also ask me to conduct some
tests. I can't do the tests now because my boat is on
hard.
I will keep you
posted.Vladimir
SM#345
"LIFE IS GOOD" On Jan
8, 2017 10:26 PM, "songhui_ma@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com> wrote: 
Happy
New Year 2017 Yanmar
4JH3-TE - 3600 hours - 1500 hours
maintenance.  A New
Zealand mechanic replaced the injectors with Yanmar ones I
provided and sourced in the US [Niemiec] Both mechanic and my
US provider confirmed that it was the correct part
#.  However
and since I cannot go over 2300
RPM.The
smoke is pretty transparent neither black or
white.  I
browsed the internet, got a lot of ideas, but nothing which
jumped out.I suspect it is
related to the Turbo - over 2300 RPM - that I have not used
much and realized I should have.    Suggestions greatly
appreciated ThanksDominique S/V
Viva SM
#374 Opua,
NZ    






























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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement

greatketch@...
 

Don't forget about the zincs in the engine and generator... they are there for the same reason:  the zinc on the rudder is NOT going to protect anything inside the engine room.  

The bonding serves two purposes: to drain off stray currents and protect underwater metals from galvanic corrosion with the zinc.  For parts up inside the engine room connected to the ocean by a hose the galvanic protection available from an external zinc is so close to zero it makes no nevermind, but the stray current protection is still really important. That's why the engine and generator zincs are so important to keep on top of seperate from the rudder zinc.

Worst case:  the zinc installed in the manifold dissolves faster than the rudder zinc.  But it is a piece of cake to replace.  And guess what?  If it dissolves quickly, that means it is needed!

It sure sounds to me like some of the original manifolds installed had some brazing issues that might have been helped by an installed zinc if they are failing in as little as 8 years.

Bill Kinney
SM#160  Harmonie
Rose Island, Bahamas



---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote :

If you place a zinc on the manifold and also leave the manifold connected to the bonding system, that zinc will be the closest zinc to all items in the bonding system and will deteriorate before the rudder zincs.

Yes, it can't hurt, but I would not advise it if the manifold is connected to the bonding system.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail




Re: Watermaker - Santorin - Sea Chest

Herbert Lackner
 

Eric,

 

I installed an Echotec Watermaker on our Santorin and used the Sea Water inlet of the aft toilet, just installed a T at the seacock.  I also installed a magnetic booster pump next to the seacock and led the hose into the engine room where I installed the watermaker using the hole that is also used for the radar cable,   very simple and effective.

 

There was no need for an additional through hull, also not for the seawater outlet, here I installed a T-piece into the hoise after the manual bilge pump for the saltwater outlet.

 

If you want I can send you pictures or can try to upload some…

 

Herbert

SN 120, KALI MERA, Dominica


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Stern Bumper for SM2000

greatketch@...
 

Colin & Lauren,

I guess we have you to thank for ordering one and getting the production gears slowly moving so an official Amel bumper was ready to ship overnight to us when we wanted it in December.

I have heard of one owner who had one made out of wood, in shape and paint to match the original.  Obviously not as "bounce-back" as the hard foam, but would still protect the hull and would look good--at least until it took its first good thump.  An advantage is that it is easy to change back to Amel original foam when you can get one.

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Rose Island, Bahamas



---In amelyachtowners@..., <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote :

We recently replaced our bumper with one sourced from Amel. There was a 2 year wait for this part but finally we got one. Being an Amel original part it was a easy 20 mins job to replace. Cost was around 475 euro plus freight to Brisbane.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332
Brisbane, Australia