Date   
Re: SSB Ground

Daniel Frey
 
Edited

On my boat 90% of Electric and electronic Problems are Connection Problems. This also applies to the SSB radio installation. I would check all the connections from start to end for corrosion and weak contacts.

And remember: the antenna starts with the wire from the tuner to the whip antenna (or isolated stag): no contact or approximity to other wires.

If not done already, check the SWR (stand wave ratio) of Your installation with an appropriate device. It gives you a hint of how much of the radios Energy that should go out is reflected.

If Nothing helps, open the tuner and check whether everything is ok or there are signs of Burning.

Re: SSB Ground

Herbert Lackner
 

to be more specific:  Your ground is the sea. So you need a good electrical (HF - high frequency connection) to sea-water. This is done by your dynaplate. If you connect your bonding system you will make your HF connection to the sea better, but you will probably connect Battery (-) via the tuner to the bonding system, this is what you do not want. But you can do that, if you make sure that there is only a HF connection from tuner to the bonding system, this can be done by making the connection using capacitors. They will block any DC connection but will allow HF. This is the typical installation on steel hull boats.

If you glue copper foil to your bottom you are building big capacitors (foil - grp - water) that also allow HF running through it. Just adding metal (like your tank) without connection to the water does not really help...

herbert, SN120

Re: SSB Ground

Herbert Lackner
 

Hi Joerg,

in my opinion there should be no need of adding additional ground, make sure that the connections are clean, no corrosion on any contacts, from tranceiver to tuner to antenna!, and also check the ground connections for contact / corrosion. Also check the dynaplate if it is clean and not painted...  Transmitting problems are very often connection problems on the path to the antenna (antenna - tuner connection...)

If you decide to add anything else to your ground system that is connected to the bonding system (and this is the only thing that will make your ground better, or - of course - copper foil) then make sure that you put capacitors between tuner and bonding so that there is no DC connection between your tuners ground and the bonding so that only HF can pass.

Kali Mera has no dynaplate, I use the bonding as HF ground, but separate it with capacitors so that omly HF can pass it, that works fine and does not change the Amel bonding philosophy. Bills idea is also good, but it might be a too small area for effective grounding.

herbert, SN120

Re: Steyr motor turbocharger complete

ngtnewington Newington
 

On Amelia we have the  Volvo Penta D3 110. 

In the Volvo manual that came with the boat, in it’s  original Amel folder, there was a note to say that as a matter of maintenance one should spray  lubricant like WD40, onto the actuator lever on the turbo and work it as it has a tendency to seize.

This is something that I regularly do.

Nick

Amelia AML 54-019
Kilada Greece.

On 30 Jan 2020, at 16:58, Jose Alegria <Josealegr@...> wrote:

Thank you Mark


Jose Alegria
Amel55 #03-MERIT
+351918663037



No dia 30/01/2020, às 17:38, Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...> escreveu:


Sorry I have not responded sooner, have been off the boat without internet for a bit.  On the Volvo D3 – 110 you can see the round vacuum actuator attached to a rod that leads up to an eccentric or cam on the turbo.  Although Volvo calls this a variable geometry actuator, fancy terminology for a way to change the angle of the blades to change the amount of boost pressure as engine load changes.  Mine was sticking and giving an engine error code.  Virtually every company I talked with said the turbo had to be rebuilt.  I found a very helpful Volvo dealership that sent me the attached service bulletin.  I sprayed the actuator and eccentric then worked both back and forth with a screwdriver to free it up, my problem was solved.  This may be the issue you are having. 

--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54
<D3 Turbo Actuator Service, 29-0-002A.pdf>

Re: Steyr motor turbocharger complete

Jose Alegria
 

Thank you Mark


Jose Alegria
Amel55 #03-MERIT
+351918663037
Josealegr@...



No dia 30/01/2020, às 17:38, Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...> escreveu:



Sorry I have not responded sooner, have been off the boat without internet for a bit.  On the Volvo D3 – 110 you can see the round vacuum actuator attached to a rod that leads up to an eccentric or cam on the turbo.  Although Volvo calls this a variable geometry actuator, fancy terminology for a way to change the angle of the blades to change the amount of boost pressure as engine load changes.  Mine was sticking and giving an engine error code.  Virtually every company I talked with said the turbo had to be rebuilt.  I found a very helpful Volvo dealership that sent me the attached service bulletin.  I sprayed the actuator and eccentric then worked both back and forth with a screwdriver to free it up, my problem was solved.  This may be the issue you are having. 


--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54
<D3 Turbo Actuator Service, 29-0-002A.pdf>

Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

To try and mitigate this problem a 12 V normally open (NO) valve could be connected to the muffler drain.  12 V power can be obtained from a ship’s system such as the engine exhaust fan that only operates when the engine is running.  When the engine runs and the valve is energized, it will close blocking the drain line and keeping the engine exhaust contained; with the engine off and power removed the valve would return to its NO position and allow any water in the muffler or any water that subsequently enters the muffler to drain to the bilge.  Ahead of the solenoid valve I would install a manual ball valve as a backup in case the solenoid fails and not knowing what kind of contaminants are in the muffler consider installing a small filter.

 

I ran this idea by another forum member that is very knowledgeable about all things Amel.  His comment was “Do you think your idea is childproof?”.  It is not completely childproof since it is an active system however it is a way to mitigate the problem and I believe follows the KISS principle.  Additionally, it would be relatively inexpensive to implement while providing an alternative safeguard for the very expensive engine repair.


--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54

Re: SSB Ground

 

Joerg,

I am no SSB expert. Sometimes I think there is as much art to "fine-tuning" an SSB system as there is science. Maybe you need advice from one of those "artists."

You want to be careful in connecting anything that is connected to the bonding system and I believe your fuel tank is bonded. If so, connecting to it will connect you to everything that is bonded. Several SSB experts that I know suggest using resin to attach copper foil to the inside of the hull below the waterline to increase the ground area. Check the area I shaded which is inside your watertight steering compartment. I believe this is the actual hull rather than a false bottom. This area should be close enough to your Tuner to connect. Maybe covering this area with copper foil will give you a better ground. 
image.png

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar

On Thu, Jan 30, 2020 at 8:59 AM Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
On my boat, I have the Amel provided SSB installation with the whip antenna and 2 dynaplates on the skeg as ground.  I've participated in the MedNet a bit over the last couple of years and have noticed that I often can hear boats yet they cannot hear me or can hear only a weak signal.  More often then not, my transmission seems to come in weak.  I have spoken to a number of SSB experts in the last couple of years and made some modifications to the installation which have been somewhat successful.  I still think that I my SSB creates a weaker signal than most others.  I've now spoken to another expert here on the US West Coast who suggests to increase the amount of ground the boat has by connecting more metal inside the boat to the ground system.  I'm thinking of connecting the fuel tank to the SSB ground, for example.  The connection would be by 7 cm wide copper tape - so it's not an easy thing to do as the fuel tank and the Antenna tuner are separated by a watertight bulkhead.  Has anyone done this or done something else that has helped?  

Many thanks for any advice!  Cheers Joerg

Joerg Esdorn
A55 #53, Kincsem


Re: Steyr motor turbocharger complete

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

Sorry I have not responded sooner, have been off the boat without internet for a bit.  On the Volvo D3 – 110 you can see the round vacuum actuator attached to a rod that leads up to an eccentric or cam on the turbo.  Although Volvo calls this a variable geometry actuator, fancy terminology for a way to change the angle of the blades to change the amount of boost pressure as engine load changes.  Mine was sticking and giving an engine error code.  Virtually every company I talked with said the turbo had to be rebuilt.  I found a very helpful Volvo dealership that sent me the attached service bulletin.  I sprayed the actuator and eccentric then worked both back and forth with a screwdriver to free it up, my problem was solved.  This may be the issue you are having. 


--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54

Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage

 

Thanks, Olivier!

I took your photo and added it to the other photos I had. I hope that together these photos help others understand the exhaust system after SM #100. Corrective or Additional comments are welcome. The following is available in PDF and JPG format.
image.png


On Wed, Jan 29, 2020 at 9:24 PM Beaute Olivier via Groups.Io <atlanticyachtsurvey=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello Mike,

your SM 23 did not have the rubber flap mounted on a stainless steel cylinder box.
This system came later probably around hull 100.
If your system has not been modified since original, your exhaust through hull system is just a GRP tube bonded to the hull, where the exhaust hose is glued into with silicone filler.

The rubber flap system has been installed on SMs (since hull 100) and on AMEL 54, 55, 64, 50 and 60 (not Santorins).

The plastic mufflers have been installed on SMs with Yanmar engines, all the Perkins and Volvo engines have (originally) stainless steel mufflers.

Mike, if you want to install the rubber flap system, you need to make sure the GRP through hull tube is the same diameter as the bigger diameter of the stainless steel cylinder.

Hope the attached picture will help and show those who have never seen this part (although they have it).

Olivier


--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar

SSB Ground

Joerg Esdorn
 

On my boat, I have the Amel provided SSB installation with the whip antenna and 2 dynaplates on the skeg as ground.  I've participated in the MedNet a bit over the last couple of years and have noticed that I often can hear boats yet they cannot hear me or can hear only a weak signal.  More often then not, my transmission seems to come in weak.  I have spoken to a number of SSB experts in the last couple of years and made some modifications to the installation which have been somewhat successful.  I still think that I my SSB creates a weaker signal than most others.  I've now spoken to another expert here on the US West Coast who suggests to increase the amount of ground the boat has by connecting more metal inside the boat to the ground system.  I'm thinking of connecting the fuel tank to the SSB ground, for example.  The connection would be by 7 cm wide copper tape - so it's not an easy thing to do as the fuel tank and the Antenna tuner are separated by a watertight bulkhead.  Has anyone done this or done something else that has helped?  

Many thanks for any advice!  Cheers Joerg

Joerg Esdorn
A55 #53, Kincsem

Re: Steyr motor turbocharger complete

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Mike,

I wont be on the boat for a few days but next time out I will check. I just bought the product at an auto supply shop. I was strongly warned by a Volvo agent (who could not help wit the problem) not to spray it into the turbo but that is not difficult as the waste gate shaft is external. However what the product does is remove wax like build up that occurs over time in petrol carburetors and I cant see that harming a turbo. However I keep it out in case. Because it was so spectacularly successful in freeing my waste gate I would suspect we are dealing with a similar build up. It is the only product I have found that works.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl 

On 30 January 2020 at 15:26 "Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)" <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Hi Danny,

Do you know who manufactures and/or supplies the carbo clean product you use? I've found quite a variety online.

Thanks,
Mike
SV Trilogy - SM23
Opua, NZ

Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Merci for this Olivier,

I hope Amel have stocks of them because I suspect there may be a run on them.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl


On 30 January 2020 at 16:22 "Beaute Olivier via Groups.Io" <atlanticyachtsurvey@...> wrote:

Hello Mike,

your SM 23 did not have the rubber flap mounted on a stainless steel cylinder box.
This system came later probably around hull 100.
If your system has not been modified since original, your exhaust through hull system is just a GRP tube bonded to the hull, where the exhaust hose is glued into with silicone filler.

The rubber flap system has been installed on SMs (since hull 100) and on AMEL 54, 55, 64, 50 and 60 (not Santorins).

The plastic mufflers have been installed on SMs with Yanmar engines, all the Perkins and Volvo engines have (originally) stainless steel mufflers.

Mike, if you want to install the rubber flap system, you need to make sure the GRP through hull tube is the same diameter as the bigger diameter of the stainless steel cylinder.

Hope the attached picture will help and show those who have never seen this part (although they have it).

Olivier


 


 

Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Thank you so much! This makes a lot of sense now... quite a bit different than what I was picturing.

I believe I have a 4" (101.6mm) hose fitted on the hull. Does anyone know the bigger diameter of the Amel flap box (yellow arrow in Olivier's photo)?

I think this will do wonders in keeping the ocean out.

Many thanks,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
Opua, NZ

Re: New companionway lock source

David Wallace
 

Keep checking around. I had two copies made at a little locksmith stall on the street in Loreto, Baja Sur, Mexico, so you never know...


On Jan 29, 2020, at 4:15 PM, Arlo <svplanb@...> wrote:

On Mon, Jan 20, 2020 at 04:48 PM, Nicolas Klene wrote:
HI Arlo
 with the pictures and the référence I will try to inquire here in France and come back to you .


nick
--
Nicolas Klene
DarNico
SM2K # 471
In Marseille

 Thanks Nick!

Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Mike,

your SM 23 did not have the rubber flap mounted on a stainless steel cylinder box.
This system came later probably around hull 100.
If your system has not been modified since original, your exhaust through hull system is just a GRP tube bonded to the hull, where the exhaust hose is glued into with silicone filler.

The rubber flap system has been installed on SMs (since hull 100) and on AMEL 54, 55, 64, 50 and 60 (not Santorins).

The plastic mufflers have been installed on SMs with Yanmar engines, all the Perkins and Volvo engines have (originally) stainless steel mufflers.

Mike, if you want to install the rubber flap system, you need to make sure the GRP through hull tube is the same diameter as the bigger diameter of the stainless steel cylinder.

Hope the attached picture will help and show those who have never seen this part (although they have it).

Olivier

Re: Steyr motor turbocharger complete

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hi Danny,

Do you know who manufactures and/or supplies the carbo clean product you use? I've found quite a variety online.

Thanks,
Mike
SV Trilogy - SM23
Opua, NZ

Re: Super Maramu Main Mast Furling foil Sheered

John Clark
 

Hi Karen,
   Excellent write up. I did s similar repair on Annie (SM37) and agree 100% to use a reinforcing tube for the bolt.  I wound up using JB-Weld in a similar fashion to regular epoxy as you suggested but did not fill the foil with it.  The key as you said is to distribute the load to avoid point sources of stress.  Annie's foil is original and has 3 circumnavigations....but also attentive previous owners so there was only play between the foil and the coupling before I got to fix it. I do question the epoxy mix you used....I tried it and as you suggested I thickened it with mayonnaise.....but it got very lumpy and not well organized....so I figured I over added the mayonnaise and thus thinning was in order so I added some peanut butter...  I don't know what kind of epoxy you used but I could never get mine to work with the mayonnaise and peanut butter.   

   FYI about a year later I, the bad owner, in a moment of carelessness tried to furl the mainsail with a pretty solid breeze and the coupling failed before the foil.  We were downwinding into a channel lines with rock jetties and had a series of turns coming up so I decided to switch to motor and didn't think about the point of sail and wind....and snapped the coupling.  (Amel Martinique had a new one in a week for us) The repaired foil was perfectly fine.   I wonder if Amel engineered the coupling as the sacrificial point of failure?  Important consideration if one were to have one made locally as I was...

Regards,  John
SV Annie SM 37
Brunswick GA....hoping to soon be in the USVI  ;)
  

On Tue, Jan 28, 2020 at 9:52 PM Karen Smith via Groups.Io <karenharmonie=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Here is the detailed write up, of what we did, when we had this issue a year ago. We are quite happy with it!  Amel Mainsail Foil Repair



Re: New companionway lock source

Arlo
 

On Mon, Jan 20, 2020 at 04:48 PM, Nicolas Klene wrote:
HI Arlo
 with the pictures and the référence I will try to inquire here in France and come back to you .


nick
--
Nicolas Klene
DarNico
SM2K # 471
In Marseille

 Thanks Nick!

Re: Deck Repairs to Amel Mango

Arlo
 
Edited

We have a mango, hull # 46 from 1985 and the same cracks... i plan to use a dremmel and open it up a little, then do a standard gelcoat repair with west epoxy fairing compound and paint with awlgrip primer and paint and and see how they do....I personally love the teak deck look so I dont plan to remove it. I have seen  Davids mango hull number 44, I believe where the PO removed the teak look and it came out looking great...so that is always a backup plan for us...

Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Thanks Joel, Bill, and everyone who has offered ideas on this topic. It's all been very helpful as I work toward a solution. I'll be taking a close look inside the injection elbow, stainless muffler, and the cylinder shaped exhaust box near the thru hull. The rubber flap is still somewhat of a mystery... if replacement is recommended, is there a recommended part source (Amel?) and procedure? I'm not so much worried about accessing it but securing it properly. Is one edge of the rubber flap fixed to the inside surface of the box right where the smaller hose comes in? Held in place with just some adhesive/sealant or something more? Or does the flap have a rigid border/frame to it that gets bonded somewhere in the middle of the exhaust box? My rubber flap is not only long gone but that whole cylinder box and reducing coupling is non-original for my boat. I don't want to re-do it the wrong way.

Any advice for getting back to the Amel standard regarding this anti-return flap is still welcomed.

Danny - I think your way of accessing it makes sense. Definitely not the easiest place to access in the engine room (or the hardest!). Also probably best done while dry unless you're floating in a swimming pool.

Regards,
Mike
SV Trilogy - SM23
Opua, NZ